A detail many folks shooting with the Mamiya 6x7 systems might not be aware of is that there's also a conversion for depth-of-field compared with 35mm/full frame lenses. A 110mm f/2.8 lens is akin to a 55mm f/1.4 lens on 35mm/full frame. The amount of light is still very much that of any f/2.8 aperture, but since you can get so much closer to the subject for the same magnification, the effective depth-of-field is the same as a full-frame lens that's two f-stops faster. So, the 50mm f/4 lens for the Mamiya RZ67 is like a 25mm f/2.8 on full frame. It won't give as shallow a depth-of-field as the 110mm that's two stops faster and more than two times the focal length, but it's still shallower than its f/4 denomination might suggest. It's great for environmental portraiture. The 65mm f/4 (full-frame equivalent of a 33mm f/2.8) from the RB67 that still works great with the RZ67 is also a solid alternative, especially since it's considerably less expensive, and its shutter is completely mechanical, so it'll work at all speeds even if the RZ67's battery goes dead. This can be a life saver. :)
Super insightful vid Sophia! Been gearing up to take portraits in a studio at the end of the year and I am definitely not used to rooms/places without natural, outdoor lighting. Overall, great video with some very useful tips! 🔥
These are all absolutely wonderful Sophia! Great work as always, can’t wait to see the next few videos coming and more work from you! Also, I’ll be the first person in line when the new coffee table book drops😁
Absolutely loved this! I haven’t shot anything since the start of the pandemic. Studio lighting is something I want to start learning as well. Watching this gave me a-lot of inspiration as well as eased my anxiety a bit. lol Thanks sophia!
Absolutely loved your photos! This is exactly what I’m looking for when taking portraits of myself. Do you know if I can achieve something similar with a 18-45mm lens?
Thank you! Do you mean an 18-45mm lens on 35mm/digital or on medium format? Either way that’s quite a wide focal length. I’d probably recommend shooting at the upper end, around 45mm, if it’s on digital or 35mm, and if it’s on medium format then that will likely be way too wide for portraits.
Thanks for the video. The primary reason I purchased my RB67 was for portraits. Here are the lenses I use for portraits: 250mm f/4.5 for tight face shots 180mm f/4.5 for head & shoulder portraits 150mm f/4 SF for soft focus portraits 90mm f/3.8 for full-length and ¾ length portraits 50mm f/4.5 for group portraits
Hi Sophia. I'm wondering which trigger did you use for the Newer Vision 4 and the Mamyia RZ. I have 2 medium format camera and I would use strobe for portraits, but it difficult for me trying to understand how to do that. Great portraits anyway, It's good to go out of the comfort zone, It pushes everyone who try to do better things. Rosaria
Hey! I just used the trigger that came with the light, the same one I use for my Sony. If your RZ has a cold shoe, you'll need to use a PC cable (I explain this in this video: ua-cam.com/video/C9Nm7g_YySA/v-deo.html), but if it has a hot shoe then you can just attach it like you do on a digital camera! Hopefully that helps you but let me know if you need any more explanation! And thanks so much! Really appreciate your support!
Hi) thanks for the video and comments) I have 2 Q's , both are about exposure values , with the strobe what was your Shutter speed and aperture , I have a mamiya rb67 and 400 its supposed to be the max sync speed. And second Q , outside what's your "normal" shutter speed/aperture , Do you use box speed for iso ? thnks
Great video! Thanks :) Does it matter which trigger you use? In other words, do you think my godox trigger made for Canon will work on the Mamiya? From what I read, it's only the center pin that matters, and so it should. Just wanted to check with someone who has actually done it. Thanks!
Thanks@@SophiaCarey ! I actually have one follow up question. If I am using more than one strobe, will the center pin trigger all of them, or only the main/master one? Cheers
@@franciscopcoutinho that will depend on how your strobes are set up. Usually, your trigger is going to trigger one of the lights, and the flash of that light is what triggers the other lights. Let me know if that makes sense!
great video, but a suggestion, when trying a new lens, two strategies, one, don't do it under pressure, aka a portrait, do the first on a 'still life' you control the pace, and can also test the limits easier, aka bokeh, diffraction limits, compositions, film limits, etc.; two use a POLAROID back, this tests the lights instantly, so you can check exposure, framing, etc. before switching to the 120 stock.
Hey! I ended up getting it for a number of reasons, but the main decider was really because I was buying some lenses that came in a bundle! I might make a video with all of the other reasons but that was really the decider for me, before I had only toyed with the idea. I love my RZ and I’m still keeping it as a backup as I do a lot of commercial work on film so it’s good to have a backup in case anything went wrong with the camera (which is probable given the old age of them!)
A detail many folks shooting with the Mamiya 6x7 systems might not be aware of is that there's also a conversion for depth-of-field compared with 35mm/full frame lenses. A 110mm f/2.8 lens is akin to a 55mm f/1.4 lens on 35mm/full frame. The amount of light is still very much that of any f/2.8 aperture, but since you can get so much closer to the subject for the same magnification, the effective depth-of-field is the same as a full-frame lens that's two f-stops faster.
So, the 50mm f/4 lens for the Mamiya RZ67 is like a 25mm f/2.8 on full frame. It won't give as shallow a depth-of-field as the 110mm that's two stops faster and more than two times the focal length, but it's still shallower than its f/4 denomination might suggest. It's great for environmental portraiture. The 65mm f/4 (full-frame equivalent of a 33mm f/2.8) from the RB67 that still works great with the RZ67 is also a solid alternative, especially since it's considerably less expensive, and its shutter is completely mechanical, so it'll work at all speeds even if the RZ67's battery goes dead. This can be a life saver. :)
I love how the 50mm images complement the super close 110mm ones. The 50mm makes the images feel more dynamic. Definitely a golden combo!
OMG for a min I thought Ethan was actually George Muncey from the legendary Negative Feedback UA-cam channel!
Haha I definitely see the likeness!
@@SophiaCarey to George Russell too!
@@arneheeringa96 Oh yeah I definitely see that too!! 🤣
Always love seeing you both bring such creative ideas together, both the studio and outdoor shots are so intimate! Great job!
Your videos motivate me to start back using my rb67
Great variety of images, and each setup worked perfectly! Great collab with Andrew
Thank you so much!
Super insightful vid Sophia! Been gearing up to take portraits in a studio at the end of the year and I am definitely not used to rooms/places without natural, outdoor lighting. Overall, great video with some very useful tips! 🔥
Stunning images from all three setups, was great having you over in the studio!
Thanks Andy!
Loveee. Beautiful work as always!🤎
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it!
Definitely good work. Always like your approach when discussing photography.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that
These are all absolutely wonderful Sophia! Great work as always, can’t wait to see the next few videos coming and more work from you! Also, I’ll be the first person in line when the new coffee table book drops😁
Ah thank you so much! That really does mean the world and, haha, I'll keep that in mind
Love how these came out!!
Thank you so much! I was really pleased with them so glad to have shared them!
- nice! I was really curious about the differences between the RZ67 1 vs 2. Thats really nice to know! Thanks. ♥️
Absolutely loved this! I haven’t shot anything since the start of the pandemic.
Studio lighting is something I want to start learning as well. Watching this gave me a-lot of inspiration as well as eased my anxiety a bit. lol Thanks sophia!
Ah amazing! Thank you so much for the kind words. I’m glad that you enjoyed it!! Good luck with your studio lighting journey!
@@SophiaCarey hi Sophia, do you know if it’s possible to achieve something similar to your photos shown in this video with a Canon 18-45mm lens?
These photos are gorgeous.
Thank you so much!
Absolutely loved your photos! This is exactly what I’m looking for when taking portraits of myself. Do you know if I can achieve something similar with a 18-45mm lens?
Thank you! Do you mean an 18-45mm lens on 35mm/digital or on medium format? Either way that’s quite a wide focal length. I’d probably recommend shooting at the upper end, around 45mm, if it’s on digital or 35mm, and if it’s on medium format then that will likely be way too wide for portraits.
@@SophiaCarey it's a digital Canon R50. Thank _you_ !
Thanks for the video.
The primary reason I purchased my RB67 was for portraits.
Here are the lenses I use for portraits:
250mm f/4.5 for tight face shots
180mm f/4.5 for head & shoulder portraits
150mm f/4 SF for soft focus portraits
90mm f/3.8 for full-length and ¾ length portraits
50mm f/4.5 for group portraits
Great video
Thank you so much!
Hi Sophia. I'm wondering which trigger did you use for the Newer Vision 4 and the Mamyia RZ. I have 2 medium format camera and I would use strobe for portraits, but it difficult for me trying to understand how to do that. Great portraits anyway, It's good to go out of the comfort zone, It pushes everyone who try to do better things. Rosaria
Hey! I just used the trigger that came with the light, the same one I use for my Sony. If your RZ has a cold shoe, you'll need to use a PC cable (I explain this in this video: ua-cam.com/video/C9Nm7g_YySA/v-deo.html), but if it has a hot shoe then you can just attach it like you do on a digital camera! Hopefully that helps you but let me know if you need any more explanation!
And thanks so much! Really appreciate your support!
Hi) thanks for the video and comments) I have 2 Q's , both are about exposure values , with the strobe what was your Shutter speed and aperture , I have a mamiya rb67 and 400 its supposed to be the max sync speed. And second Q , outside what's your "normal" shutter speed/aperture , Do you use box speed for iso ? thnks
Great video! Thanks :)
Does it matter which trigger you use? In other words, do you think my godox trigger made for Canon will work on the Mamiya? From what I read, it's only the center pin that matters, and so it should. Just wanted to check with someone who has actually done it. Thanks!
Yep, I’ve found that it’s the centre pin that matters. In my experience, Canon triggers work but not Sony triggers! But that’s just for Bowens lights.
Thank you!@@SophiaCarey
Thanks@@SophiaCarey !
I actually have one follow up question. If I am using more than one strobe, will the center pin trigger all of them, or only the main/master one? Cheers
@@franciscopcoutinho that will depend on how your strobes are set up. Usually, your trigger is going to trigger one of the lights, and the flash of that light is what triggers the other lights. Let me know if that makes sense!
great video, but a suggestion, when trying a new lens, two strategies, one, don't do it under pressure, aka a portrait, do the first on a 'still life' you control the pace, and can also test the limits easier, aka bokeh, diffraction limits, compositions, film limits, etc.; two use a POLAROID back, this tests the lights instantly, so you can check exposure, framing, etc. before switching to the 120 stock.
Hey, I was wondering if there's a particular reason you got the Pro II although you already own the RZ, or maybe there'll be a vidoek about it? :)
Hey! I ended up getting it for a number of reasons, but the main decider was really because I was buying some lenses that came in a bundle!
I might make a video with all of the other reasons but that was really the decider for me, before I had only toyed with the idea. I love my RZ and I’m still keeping it as a backup as I do a lot of commercial work on film so it’s good to have a backup in case anything went wrong with the camera (which is probable given the old age of them!)