Everything wrong with my Rover 75...Have I bought good car?
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- Опубліковано 2 кві 2023
- Have I done the unthinkable and bought a good car? In this video Im going though the car front to back and underneath looking for every problem to see how good this Rover 75 1.8 Turbo is!
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This channel is quickly becoming my favourite! Great honest reviews with a great approach to realistic content. Well done Mat.
Same for me think it’s because there is no click bait and just Matt being honest and relatable
Those simple fixes like the window controls are so satisfying 😊
Morale boosters, I would say.
This blue makes for a very pretty car. I'm sure the old boy who had it before you must have been very proud of it! I can see you finding this one very hard to sell on. It's certainly a modern classic, a car people could be admiring at classic car shows a dozen years from now, if looked after - a task I suspect you would greatly relish.
As loads have probably already told you, the water ingress in the boot will almost certainly be down to failed gaskets on the light clusters
Tiger seal to the rescue!
They fail because there was a bending op post paint to compensate for a twisted boot lid through the curing process. This happened because they only used a one sided support to prop open the boot lid through the ovens.
You got a good car, mine has a few niggles too but it’s a 20 year old car so to be expected, I hope you keep it.
I had a Rover 75, same colour with BMW diesel engine in some 20yrs ago, was one of the best modern cars I have ever owned!!!!!!!
The bulk head drain tubes were a known problem even then, I took mine into Rover and there solution was the pipes underneath they ran a Stanley knife through them!!!!!! So pipes still there but split open!!!!!!!!!
To be fair to Rover, it worked!!! They never blocked again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Matt, you KNOW it makes sense to keep it. Much as I’m loving this trading up series you’ll have to hang on to it..find another this good if you can. Dilemma is what goes??
Just a quick tip, on our Rover 75 Classic there used to be a swimming pool just below the master cylinder on the driver's side, I discovered there is a rubber pipe just below the power steering pot on the bulkhead. Also watch Ian's (Hubnut) upload regarding how to remove the plastic just below the windscreen, (the garage that serviced the Rover managed to break the item, than repaired it badly so I guess it's quite brittle plastic). Good luck with your car, it's in great condition.
It looks in great condition all round! Just a point about the plenum drains, I'm not sure if you know but there's another one on the passenger side further in that's right under the ECU. That's the one that can cause the ECU to become flooded if it blocks. You need to take a few panels off the scuttle to get access but overall it's an easy job.
Hope Matt got your message
Can’t agree this engine is the best version. I had the BMW diesel. Totally reliable and went like a train on almost 50 mpg. And no head gasket nightmares.
Ive got that in my Freelander. Its good but not exciting or ULEZ
To be fair if the initial head gasket issue is resolved properly you generally won't see it again.
The amount of these that got misdiagnosed with HGF when it was just the green 'rubbery' gasket on the inlet manifold.
They're absolutely worth changing yearly for how cheap and quick to do that they are.
i've got a diesel 75 , very good cars, 60 +MPG,
Pity the Td5 wasn't engineered as a common-rail unit with a 20v head - could have installed transversely in the 75 and would have suited it well. 125 kW (170 PS) @ 4,000 / 350 Nm @ 1,900 (GETRAG & JATCO gearboxes' limit) would have ensured decent progress.
Could have been used in the Defender a little longer and possibly even used in the Disco 3.
Rover used a better Turbo than BMW on the Diesel engine , my old 75 was on 220,000 and miles still on the original one !
You'd be bonkers to sell this! I had an early one in the same colour that I bought for a mere £550 to quickly replace my written off ZT and I was massively impressed with how it drove; very different in character. Miss that car!
Agitation is key to good extraction and fabric cleaning. Spray a good fabric cleaner on and allow it to dwell for a few minutes, agitate with an appropriate brush (not too soft otherwise it wont do much, not to stiff or it will ruin the fabric), and then extract. Drenching fabric and simply extracting it isn't going to make the most of the detergents that you are using. If you don't have a steam cleaner I'd invest in one of those as well - wrap a microfibre towel over the end and agitate fabrics with it and you will be surprised as to how much gunk comes out.
16:15 That isn't the fuel pump. That's the evaporative emissions charcoal canister. The pump is in the tank.
The drain holes can be a problem on a Mazda MX5 - I cleaned mine with a flexible trombone brush! (£4 off eBay) suggested by someone in the owners club
Glad to see you have struck gold this time with a really sound car with a lot of the potential problem areas (head gasket) fixed. This is too nice to move on I'd say, I would part with the Volvo or the 400 estate, maybe both?? Great content as always 👍
Yes this one should be a keeper, I think Matt is liking this one too much and appears to be relishing doing these lttle jobs to it unlike some of the others in the fleet.
Absolutely great content for the channel, and a fantastic car, too. I'm biased when it comes to cars in the Furious Fleet. I have a severe dislike of front wheel drive, a loathing for the 4.6 litre V8, and an affinity for Swedish Red Blocks. I think it would be very interesting once all 3 are fettled to do an head to head comparison of the 75, the P6 2000 and the P6 with the Rover 4.2 V8. For my money the 4.2 is the way to go, but with a North American GM Quadrajet intake and carburetor. The 4bbl was available when the original 215cid version ordered in the 61-63 Buick Special Skylark, with or without turbocharger.
The Volvo is too good to flip. Maybe flip the 400 tourer and the Freelander though, and keep this?
The Volvo and the old Merc are the forever cars.
The Volvo and the old Merc are the forever cars.
I am a proud owner of a 2000 R75 1.8 SE and I gotta say, it is a great car to drive. I got it as my first car a couple of years ago and after paying £700 for it,(61000 on the clock) I am still loving the thing. Had to do the Head Gasket and the paint work needed redoing as it had all flaked on the bonnet, roof and boot. I have spent a fair bit on this car, but its gonna be my ride for however long I draw breath. I bought a cheap steering wheel cover that sorted the old roughed up wheel out. I also have a plenum guard that a lad on facebook 3D prints. it sits just under the hinge on the drivers side and has a foam filter to stop debris getting into the plenum area and clogging it up. I have had new front coil springs, drop links(all) rear swing arm bush (did both) new stereo, tinted windows, focal speakers, sundown amp and sub, cow print seat covers, neon lights in the front, just about to put more neons on it underneath, hopefully get her to a few rover festivals in the future after I have got a few more bits done. DGMRS are a great company for parts, and they throw in free MAOAM sweets with your order. had to replace the rear door mech as the small plastic clip had snapped, soon to be getting full set of door handles, and at some point I will be getting the door liner, headliner and rear liners redone...........in cow print. yup, I am a bit wierd, but its my pride and joy. The Rover 75 is a true classic.
Looks like a good add-value purchase with bits to fix plus an intensive clean in and out (DiamondBrite deployed!). Interior smell - Rover 75 + pipe sounds about right 😊
This is one very good example, at the moment it’s looking to be a straightforward restoration too, hopefully!!.
Well done finding this one Matt, dare I say, I think it’s a keeper ❤.
That is a great car, Matt. I've lived the look of a 75 since I first saw one on Dalziel and Pascoe. Tom Barnaby in Midsomer Murders had a couple of them, one pre- and one post-facelift. With most of that surface rust, get rid of the loose stuff and then either POR-15 or Krown Rustproofing to the rescue. Krown WORKS. It was invented to counteract the dreadful winter weather here that can destroy a car in 10 years. It has kept my 240DL Estate in one piece for 33 years and counting.
With my dislike, even hatred, of front wheel drive and the Ford 4.6 litre, I wonder if I could take the rear wheel drive MG version, yank the engine and transmission, and drop in a late 80s spec 351W (5.8 litre) V8 with Edelbrock Performer intake and square bore carb, all backed up with the 5 speed manual that lived behind a 5.0 H.O in an older Mustang. The neat thing there is that the highway mileage might well be better than the 1.8 litre Turbo. Hmmm. Point to ponder.
Lovely Old car Matt! You can see how well the previous owner loved it. I am looking to buy a second hand car soon and a bissell is a must! Thanks for featuring it during the cleaning section of the video.
Looks good. I owned a 2 litre V6 R75 which we took to Barcelona and back a brilliant car which still exists to this day thanks to a great enthusiast. Keep these R75s going they are classics already!
Thanks Matt, I’m consistently impressed by your patience and attention to detail, I wish I had the same qualities!
I think you’ve got a tidy example of a 75 there, that blue is a nice colour, when I’m interested in buying any Rover product I always ask for Cambelt and Head gasket history about the car, if those haven’t been done I generally walk away.
Glad you didn’t end up with a “rotbox” this time.
Really enjoying your stuff...it's actually a refreshing change to see such 'smaller scale' projects with more modest (but very interesting) cars...strangely therapeutic.
Agreed. Low cost, high value and quality motoring IS out there if you know what you're doing. More of the same most welcome.
Keep the 75, you'd regret selling it. It's too handsome in that shade of blue (and now even more so with those shining headlights) and too good condition-wise to let go. And it already is something of a modern classic. A great swap/find, really and after the unfortunate turn of the beetle story, your luck with this one is well deserved. The one I'd trade instead would be the 400 tourer, but the choice is obviously all up to you 😀.
Immediate like for the use of the word “interfrastically” and I’d like it again if I could because of Paul being a total legend! What a lovely car this is.
Enjoying your channel with good advice. my 75 wasn't solid after only owning for a 18months. To get through MOT each jacking points had to be replaced as rust had made therm redundant. Steering wheel is like yours but my boot floor handle has come into two. Need to replace if i can find replacements.
Great video. lovely car. Damp boot on my ZT was the rear light cluster gaskets.
Looks like a decent example you got yourself. Check rear suspension arms ( the ones the coil spring sits in) they fail over time and is an expensive job. Keep that window control unit, you can fit a new button and it's as good as new (garage broke mine).
Would be a nice keeper if you can Matt. Maybe swop L to R with the headrests to equalise wear. Love the colour, engine and manual trans. What’s not to like?????
Matt, a quick tip regards the plenum drains. Under the car the exit for the fluid can stick together causing a blockage. I cut mine at an angle which prevents this from happening
I had a BMW built 2000 X 75 1.8 Club SE. The dash was real polished walnut, the seats were cloth (I hate leather seats). It covered 172,000 miles over the ten years I owned it. Getting into it on a wet, cold day was like going into my living room and I would regularly drive from Victoria Embankment to the North Coast of Scotland on a single hop. Of all the cars I've owned, that and my current Forester have been the best. But for comfort and class, the 75 beats them all.
Literally just wet vacced my car today and it also had the same hair product deposits on the head rest. The bissell got through it really well too
Nice 75 Matty bodywork has cleaned up well can't believe the 75 is 25 years old this Autumn remember it's 1998 launch when I was a young 24 year old
What a find - lovely motor. Keep/sell dilemma wouldn't be a dilemma for me - I'd keep this and bid a fond farewell to the 400 estate. No-brainer as far as I'm concerned!
furious bmw er rover type thing. I had one a v6 at two years old and that overheated. sent it back and swapped it for a Mondeo 2.0. was a nice car while it lasted for a few weeks.
Always always liked the 75 and still lust after one. I think it’s one of the nicest shapes &proportions on the road even today. The only thing that puts me off is some reports of dicey reliability. But wow, from the front especially it’s a gorgeous car
Great video Matt, looks like it's possibly a keeper, for a while at least ! One word of warning though, before you start work on swapping the steering wheel. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's procedure to fully disarm the SRS circuits, and allow enough time for any capacitor stored charge to drop away. Most vehicles of that age will just require the battery completely disconnected at both terminals, and wait the manufacturer specified time of 30+ minutes. Sudden disconnection, or connection of any electrical plug when stored charge is still in the system, will cause enough electrical spike to trigger the pyrotechnics that deploy all the AirBags and Seatbelt Tensioners etc. They go off with more than enough force to do you a serious injury, break bones, knock out teeth etc, if you're too close to an airbag as it fires.
Had one for about 6 years, with the diesel cdti engine ,and autobox what a pleasure to drive, best car i have ever had still regret selling it. The 75 and ZT club is a great forum to follow with loads of help and advice.
There are 10 water entry points in the 75 saloons boot. They're a bloody nightmare, most common is just the light seals. If you're getting the T-Piece (located correctly btw) from DMGRS I think they've got the seals too.
If it is one of the other points there's a whole thread on the forum about how to fix them. Always advisable as having a damp boot is always a pain!
I tend to use thick strimmer wire for clearing drain holes. Works especially well with sunroofs where the drainage channels go all the way from the roof to the chassis.
Still looks like a good one you've got there Matt. Just stick a leather interior in it and keep it, you know you want to. 😂
Well worth cleaning and lubricating the bonnet release mechanism, they can be a nightmare when one side sticks. Also, rear light to body seals is likely to be where the boot leaks are from.
IIRC the R40/R41 75 (saloon exterior: Richard Woolley / Tourer exterior: Ian Callum (was mocked at Jaguar for it)) and R50 MINI (exterior: Frank Stephenson) had the same interior design team - look at the dashboard shapes and overall silhouette!
I really love this car. I have had two rover 75s in the past and I regret selling them both. Looking at this one really puts me in the notion to buy another!
Great vid as always! I own a 1.4 petrol 2002 Rover 25 which is currently off the road as I now work from home and no longer need it for commuting. It was a hand-me-down car from a late grandparent. It suffered a coolant leak a few years back, which lead me to believe it was the dreaded HG issue, so I simply chucked in some gasket weld and it’s been fine ever since. No leaks and the temp stays below the half way line 👍🏻. I just can’t bring myself to get rid of it. It starts on the button every time, even if it’s been left for weeks. They look great these old Rovers do and I’m glad to see that there are still many enthusiasts out there who are willing to keep them on the road 👍🏻
Just for the sake of future reference for others. 90% of the time you should never put any "gasket repair" or "gasket seal" into a K-Series. Particularly K-Seal. If you are willing to risk it steel seal is the least deadly in a limited quantity.
The K has very fine water ways and if you're unlucky those repair liquids can congeal and block them, that will hotspot the head and destroy it. I've seen it happen many times unfortunately.
Sounds like you've been safe which is good to hear. I'd just prefer to warn people! It's always a bummer to hear when someone has had their engine cooked because of K-Seal.
@@SpitfireFortyFour You are right 👍I would normally have got the car sorted out properly, but it would have cost more than the cars worth. So it was either try that or sell it for spares or repair. Luckily for me its been running fine ever since and ticks over perfectly on idle
@@SpitfireFortyFour Sound advice. There is a myth within consumer and in the trade circles that K-Series Cylinder Head Gaskets are prone to "Failure". That is misleading and repeated many times on all forms of media.
Misleading because they rarely ever fail. ON ANY CAR. They are invariably first DAMAGED by some other process. That invariably being OVERHEATING following coolant loss. The excess heat will damage engine components and the first one to suffer is the poor old gasket which ALWAYS gets the blame unfairly.
Folks accuse me and our K-Series cars in the family fleet as being "lucky" that our British cars are so reliable. It is not just luck. We check things as recommended by ALL manufacturers.
Cue Clarkson's rodent sidekick blurting out on BBC's Top Gear things like
"MGFs are RUBBISH"
Broadcast to the World. Cue also comments like this from brainwashed ...
These folks are highly paid professionals so obviously know what they are on about.
Wrong in spades.
Oh my goodness. reminds me of antimacassars grannies used to have on their chairs. Macassar was even before Brylcreem, but the cloth napkins on the chair backs and arms still kept the same name and stayed as a fixture long after people stopped using the stuff.
Think you've a good'un there, Brylcream is a bugger to wash out, i know you don't use it but maybe a couple of antimacasers for the front seats will keep those head restraints clean or a couple of Furious beanies stretched over them. Most dirt comes from hands when reaching into the rear or rear seat passengers grabbing them. Your trolley underfloor washer will come in useful as looks a bit mucky underneath.
As it has the K-series engine, (and turbo charged too), a head gasket failure can't be too far away, unless somebody has previously fitted the updated gasket and oil rail.
Many years ago I had a W reg CDI, great car very solid and went surprisingly well. Only one problem was the ignition key would get stuck in the barrel. Managed to cure it with 3 in 1 oil, although I put so much in it dripped for months. Good luck with yours.
This is very tight as well, I though it was aftermarket keys
With the water ingress in the boot I highly recommend pulling the inner trim away from the wing (this was the same side as mine) and check where the chrome trim on the outside clips in on the wing, took me ages to figure out where the water was coming from (I changed the light seals hoping it was that but I saw the water dripping from one of the clips from the trim. If it is from there I just chucked some mastic sealer in the clip and it's been dry since
same here.
If you get it working and the niggles sorted out it should be a very comfortable ride, but not much else. I had a conny 2ltr in 2005.
Definitely keep the 75 Matt. Find another one with that mileage, history and condition. It’s the right colour and being a manual turbo is in the spec you prefer. This would make great channel content to turn it into a minter. 🍻
Having driven literally hundreds of these when they were new (car hire) they still stand out as a fine car to me. I did enjoy the automatic version more, as it suited the car well. Definitely on par with the Germans back in the day.
So, on par with itself 😊
@@GoldenCroc
Mostly an all Rover product with some German input and influence.
@@GoldenCroc Pretty much. Although they where built in the UK
Enjoying these updates. As both an MG ZT V8 and ZT 1.8T owner, the 1.8T K-Series Turbo engine IS as you say the best one to have ... as a daily driver.
When I got the first 1.8T ten years ago, I read those strong opinions on-line and quite frankly, found them hard to believe. That considering the V6, BMW and Mustang V8 engine options available.
Ten years later, I fully understand that point of view.
There is a better MG engine option though. The Chinese version of the 1.8T K-Series from the MG6. Have fitted one to my ZT-T seven years ago.
The SAIC made a very fine job of their version of the K-Series 1.8T.
That Electric Window Switch Pack you casually threw away could almost certainly be revived with a little no cost TLC.
EDIT TO ADD What progress on the Crown Victoria V8 regarding the Handbrake issue?
for the boot leak, suggest getting the rear light gaskets changed for new ones, they are prone to leaking. mine have been done, but I am looking for a boot seal now as I think that is now leaking a bit.
Such a shame that we didn’t get the 1.8 turbo in Australia. I have a 2002 rover 75 V6 in top spec Connoisseur SE trim it is metallic burgundy red with leather & wood everywhere. It’s a dream to drive & is one of my regular drivers. It has 140,000 miles on it never put a foot wrong. As with any of my cars I service them every 5000 miles regardless of what the sticker says. Being a mechanic myself
Agreed. There's a reason puzzled folks accuse me of having very reliable British Cars over the past four decades or so. Amateur mechanic me changes the engine oil and filter every 6-7000 miles. Oil is far cheaper than Turbochargers and engines. Those silly high oil change mileages are designed to attract the bea counting purchasing offices buying fleets for their companies. 15.000 miles during the first few years of fleet use is fine for oil services but, once those cars reach the used car market with different levels of use, 15,000 mile oil change intervals will accelerate engine wear massively. Several new cars bought with K-Series engines in the family still giving reliable high mileages past their twentieth birthdays.
Rocket science it aint but is to some types who do not know where the bonnet release is on their cars. The latter confirmed by my neighbour who drives one of those very familiar big yellow Roadside Rescue vans.
@@T16MGJ agreed 100% although I still service many fleet cars in Australia every 5000-6000 miles. They have much better resale value when it comes time to trade in.
Great video as always! Top cheapskate tip, you can use washing powder in your Bissell, works just as good as the solution 😁
Matt you have worked wonders already and improved a really nice car you can’t let that one go to get a 75 in that condition and provenance would be very difficult and I think you would regret it
The 400 tourer needs a load of work and the Volvo is a great car but this would be a good daily and classic with ulez I hope you keep it I love the 75 and my family worked on the longbridge built cars from when they moved from cowley
Had a 1.8 turbo Tourer. Great car. Clutch hydraulics were a weakness, went through two master cylinders. A pain to access above the clutch pedal. Sure you've heard of the 'orange clip' fix on the intank fuel pump, only thing that stranded us.
Love these cars: I’ve had a 75 2.0 KV6 and a ZTT 2.0CDTi. I’d still have one if the latter was ULEZ compliant!
Non- working passenger lock likely the c/l door motor: it’s the same as your Freelander’s and the same as fitted to the R50-53 Mini
Boot leak may be a leaking chrome waist trim fastener
I suspect misfire is a coil pack on a MEMS3 engine.
Glad this one is a k16! ❤
could of also been an old code if it didn't come back when you reset it Matt, as it would of shown a misfire when the head gasket went.
I've had a similar quandary in my little collection Matt. I put them all into two piles, ones I definitely do not want to sell, and ones that I would.
The proceeds from the sales will pay for the keepers to be made just right.
You know my collection Matt, the van is going I'm afraid.
Water ingress in your boot is the light cluster seals,I took mine off and cleaned them then smeared sealant into them & reversed them & placed them on the opposite sides, sorted 👍
Really enjoying the whole flip series!
all the wiring should be there for full memory electric leather heated seats plus rear electric blind plus you can replace lights with ones from china 75 and climate panel as well..... all easy :) just saying...... :) :P
Nothing like shampooing the furnishings just draw air through at the end of cleaning to aid faster drying of upholstery and rinse machine with clean water to help water pump last longer.
I had a lovely 75 cdti connoisseur se with loads mods. lovely car. still have my roof bars and roof box if you wanted to buy them for your 75.
For the sake of the cost of new pads, I’d swap the existing ones out. I’ve had experience of pads degrading on a low mileage car that has stood around for a long time…the friction material just came off the backing plate in chunks.
I had that on the missus's R50 cooper, the friction material just let go. That said, it was a thin fillet of friction material!
Just love this it’s inspiring me to do bits to my own classic 👍👍
Get outside now its warming up!
Water ingress on my 75 was from two places. The chrome trim along the side of the car at the boot is screwed in and these seals fail. With where your water appeared to be coming in, I would say it's a leaking rear-light seal. These are a very strange material and split easily after 20+years.
I initially glued it, which did not work, then flipped the seals on the headlights and applied gutter sealant. This worked a treat although you have to be a fairly steady hand with a mastic gun. You can buy the replacement seals too but I grumbled at the price, and of course, the fact they failed in the first place! If you want to clean it up a little while you're there a toothbrush is ideal.
My handbrake was also atrocious when I bought my car. The 75 and ZT club forums hold the answer, compensator mod!
Great car ! with the 1.8 turbo K series engine Good buy ! - My 1985 Austin Maestro VDP was in this same pale blue colour as your Rover 75 !
That ducksback stuff is incredible. And you really have had a result with the 75 in terms of the body. The leak in the boot will be either tail light seals ( they split ), chrome trim pins on the rear quarter ( mine was leaking there just coated them in CT1) , rear window trim clips (again CT1 to the rescue otherwise its window out) , boot seal or boot plinth gasket.
I'd get rid of the 400, keep the Volvo prices seem to be on the up and yours is a tidy example. The 400 needs work. Looks like a choice will have to be soon as turnaround gonna b quick on this one. Great series, varied cars 👍
Always a good & interesting watch 👌
Love the 75
Grandpa had one from new in 2003
I’ve just bought myself a29;000 mile rover 114 sli. It’s spent periods of time in storage so it’s totally rust free and still has the spot welds showing on the wheel arches. It had a cam belt change at 26;000. But that was in 2008 so before I drie it I think it needs changing .
I think it will! Nothing has a 15 year interval!
@@furiousdriving the dealer I’ve bought it from was going to drive it from Surrey to me in clacton on sea. But decided to put it on a transporter.
Water in the boot tends to come from the body strip mounting holes & occasionally the tail light blocks.
I've just fixed the mirros on my 75, took the switch unit apart and cleaned the connections with isopropyl alcohol, mirrors works fine now
Another great video, I do love this series.
I think you need to keep it, The rover 75s are getting collectable and that does seem a nice one, it would fit in with your collection nicely
Water in boot will be the rear light seals, had it in my old ZT190!
I was thinking throughout the video that I'd move the Volvo on and keep this if I were you. The Rover estate is a big project but it is my favourite Rover in the fleet so I hope that one will stay. Good luck with everything, I'll be watching whatever you decide 🙂
The Volvo is, worse luck, a 2.0 litre. Because of that, I might be tempted to agree with you. Were it a 2.3 litre, different ballgame. The 2 litre is underpowered, therefore thirsty. My 400,000 mile 240 Estate with auto gearbox uses less petrol that Matt's 740 with the 5 speed manual. We're I ever to get a 75, well, it would be a 75. I want the MG V8, preferably with blown 4.6 litre. It would get a 5.8 litre (351 Windsor) V8. That would match or exceed the fuel economy of the turbo 4. In an 89 Grand Marquis (box that Matt's Crown Vic came in) the 5.8 litre was good for 40 miles to the gallon on the motorway in almost stock form.
Looks like a pretty good Rover 75 that wood steering will look great set of the dashboard l realy like the dashboards on these Rover 75s and the instruments one of the best dashboards put in a car although the wood is from a plastic tree still is very classy and shock horror mot much rust from a UK car and all it needs is a service some new struts a good polish and very minor rust repairs are you sure it didn't spend some of its life in Australia and the indicator stalk l think its a keeper its a Rover and manual and l know you like your Rovers and how is the P5 V8 going
There ought to be a "Rover Family" photo sometime. Maybe when your 3.5 comes back?
Brake & clutch cleaner, would that be suitable to remove some oily marks from my V70s headlining?
The previous owner liked to stuff his bicycle in the boot, unfortunately he wasn't the most careful of owners.
KEEP IT!
Sorry to shout, Matt, but it is a perfect fit with your Rover collection, so please, please keep it!
It is in great condition and wont take much to bring back to something befitting a gentleman’s car of that age.
Like someone else said, get shut of the Volvo or the Alfa. This car demands a permanent home in your Rover museum.
Nice one, Matt!
your poor handbrake will be down to a stretched mild steel adjuster - stainless ones are available but faffy to fit. Your water ingress could be rear light gaskets or could be where the chrome trim clips poke through the side of the car. Other problems include bonnet release cable coming detached under the bonnet and being unable to undo the bonnet. Petrol filter comes unscrewed and the car won't start. They rust around the jacking points.
Think you're more of a Rover man than a Volvo owner so I'd move on the 7 series. I also think that it wouldn't be a bad idea to rationalise some of your projects and move a couple on, the 400 estate is a lovely car, always preferred it to the touring 3 series BMW in looks, but I think when you have the MB, the Mini and the fleet to look after you need at least one big reliable motor...as long as that head gasket holds out 😉
Water ingress in the boot might be due to the seals on the rear lamp clusters. I had the same with my ZT
I love the Rover 75 - such a handsome car still looking good today. Great project.
The 75 in all its generations is a beautiful and dare I say it? A timeless looking car.
JLR, forget yet more expensive SUV's and bring back Rover!
Before using the bissell cleaner take a stiff brush dipped in hot water and scrub with the brush, then the Bessell. More effective.
Looking good all round, did you note the weeping R/N/S damper? Or was that just an overspray of cleaner. Sorry to mention if it's already in the comments below.
Great car. great purchase, Keep it all day long. Looking forward to the videos, cheers
water in boot comes from rear light seals. may also get airbag warning light with is just the plugs under the front seats that need lube
Have you considered upgrading the interior to all leather as the leather seats really do lift the look and feel of these 75s. I think you could get a suitable second hand set of seats that would add value and make it more desirable when it comes to selling the car.
For practicality and comfort I would actually prefer the velour. I would certainly change it entirely if it were in bad nick but it seems pretty good.
@@peterriggall8409 my Rover 75 was a Club SE with the velour seats, but after sitting in a Connoisseur (in a scrap yard - I needed the door seal) I definitely want the leather seats if I were to buy another 75!
Thanks for plugging the pscan.
Was it a Rover Management car?
Would be great to see an underside restoration, a lot of dealers look at the top, it’s polished but the chassis/ suspension stay’s rusty….. I feel it’s often overlooked..
If im honest I thought you would have gone for a ZT over the 75, but I think you've done quite well here Matt, keep up the great work.
If I was looking I probably would have, but this found me
@@furiousdriving true 👍
But in this condition though ?
@@marklittler784 Finding a half decent MG ZT 1.8T for a mere £1500 would be very difficult to do now. He did well with that £1500 swap. Good for him.That is peanuts for a car like that. I remember his surprised expressions and reactions when he UA-cam posted his first drive in a 1.8T 75. Who knew? Some of us did. 😉👍
I think this car is definitely a keeper, it fits in perfectly 👍, wooden steering wheel, yes 👍
A nice surprise that it's in good condition. The toughest repair is probably those brake lines, otherwise it's cleaning and bolt ons. Can't ask for more!
When I upgraded my ZT 1.8T to ZT190 Front Brakes, no way would that Brake Line Union be undone due to corrosion exposure to road filth, salt and moisture in the Wheel Arch. I had to use an angle cutting disc which destroyed both the metal and flexible rubber hoses. Enjoyed fashioning a new Cupro-Nickle Brake Line and I already had a good Flexible brake hose that came with the ZT190 set up.
The upgrade provided the overall feedback "feel" and initial bite when using the brakes that I prefer. The OEM Brake set up works well but the ZT190 ones are better. There's ZT 190 Brakes on my V8 260. The massive rear calipers on the V8 are the same as those on the front of my son's Lotus Elise S2.
Great video as always,how ever I never recommend using a gun on locking wheel nuts,
Love the progress