Greg Long Discusses His Recovery, Big Waves, and the Key to Happiness - The Inertia
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- Опубліковано 3 бер 2016
- Greg Long is the most decorated big wave surfer of the modern age. The guy's a deep thinker too. Articulate. Calculated. Thoughtful. So sitting down with him and talking about life is always a treat. Enjoy.
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There is so much serenity in Greg. Very inspiring.
Zen incarnate.
Long is the man!
Survival. The ultimate ideology.
He's come a long way from surfing the State Park.
count how many times he says "you know"
Matt Levy why don't you shut up and listen to what he has to say you ignorant fool
i guess you know what it's like to be a spokesman for one of the most challenging, radical sports in the history of mankind. Tell us, o Gladius.
"you meow'"