Full Movie: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing - Greg Long, Gary Linden, Todd Glaser [HD]
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- Опубліковано 1 лют 2017
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Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world’s most decorated big wave surfer, Greg Long. The film’s title, Sine Qua Non, is a Latin phrase, which, roughly translated, means, “Without which, [there is] nothing.” Greg Long presents the viewer with a first-hand account of the life-threatening pursuit of big waves as well a look at the horrific wipeouts involved, including one that nearly ended his life. Going deeper, Long admits his pursuit could be viewed as selfish, especially when surrounded by a very close-knit family that is concerned first and foremost about his safety.
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Such a humble guy with the heart of the bravest of Lions, living his passion.
I loved it. Although I'm a bodyboarder , the ocean is my passion and I can relate as a waterman. Absolute legend
Bodyboarding is just a different way of surfing a wave! I live on a cold water coast so many don't have the means to surf even though they want to try it. I mainly skim boarded growing up, but bodyboarded when the occasional nice wave would appear off my coast. I always wished I had a surf board and wet suit, but parents just didn't have enough money and could only afford a bodyboard. That's what's great about the body board, it makes riding waves accessible to everyone, even the poor. You can find a cheap bodyboard if it's your only option. I feel some surfers don't realize how fortunate they were
What a gladiator. Crazy to hear him foreshadow his future drowning experience at Cortes Bank. So hectic. Glad they were able to bring him back.
Greg please be careful you already have the honor of being one of the top few best on the biggest. If you feel timid or obliged to continue without having fun, just relax and take a break. With your near death experience, there is zero letdown if you were to stop as youv've already "proven' that your Greg Long!
Interesante los comentarios de Surfistas profesionales relatando sus experiencias y los momentos dificiles que han pasado...Saludos a todos ellos por brindarnos lo que es la pasion de éste deporte que es muy Emocionante....
Very well done!
what loving parents he has, Greg. resembles a lot his mother.. good documentary, cheers
The Cortez banks break is so mind boggling. The fact these guys are willing and able to get that far out into the open ocean and surf amongst massive waves and massive great whites is heroic. I know most predators like the great white wouldn't be trolling those rough breaks for food because it's way to chaotic and there's not much there for them to eat outside of some small to large tuna and dolphin but that type of prey is only good for juvenile whites. Can't believe these guys are so willing to also surf waves that break just a few hundred yards from a sheer cliff face that drops 6,000' to the bottom of the ocean. Fucking insane. The documentary "On the shoulders of giants" is a great doc to show the insane logistics and physics of Cortes bank
Awesome story and great experience, big waves are in our blood 💪🌊
Wow this is awesome
anyone who commits into big wave surfing are absolute legends in our sport
Impressive.
OCTOBER 26th!! THE DAY OF MY BIRTHDAAAAYYY!!❤️❤️❤️
Someone please explain me what 2:24 means, Hawaii and Peru was the only places where good waves can be surfed?🤔🤔🤔
So true we only see that milisecond , not the whole story behind it , we're all thinking it's the best job to be a pro surfer , but the stress, mental ability, physical ability, i have mad respect for any of these braddahs with the biggest ballz on earth to rush. Like keaulana said "it's easy to surf surviving is the hard part". That stays with me everytime i surf. ✊✊🏄♂️🏄♂️
The ultimate rush, nothing comes close.
Someone PLEASE explain me what 2:20 means
his dad whistled the entire soundtrack to LOTR when he was talking. sounded like a kettle stuck inside a flute. Teas ready. sounded like a football referee on speed. sounded like a parrot at a rave. sounded like 1000 bombs being dropped by a plane. 10/10
Cool guy, legend surfer
Interesting anecdote, I had a prescription drug made for me called Sinequan. Great for a sweet sleep. Cute group of American surfers in this video . I love airheads.
I agree yu read it wrong
Thanks
Saay what you want about winning awards for big wave surfing, all these guys are God's for even surfing all those spots
gods not Gods
what about the women ? goddesses ? Keala Paige... Bethany ?
there's a place that blow the banks away up north off Punta Gorda Called the Great Break can be found on old fishing charts of the area true 100' waves and bigger not a backwash to clear out The Great white get the sound of Killer Whales eating and play it on a underwater microphone they will all leave no one has touched it to this day there lots of spots up there no one has surfed Potato Patch has so many spots 9 miles out reef and sandbars that get huge one friend of mine had a old photo off the Bridge of a super Tanker pushing through a closeout whitewater closed out the bay made it through it was so much higher than the Tanker it was nuts but it was real those freak days still happen I got one of those waves once myself luck was a big part of the Board I had was all wrong only 7' and didn't hold in well and wished I had my 8'6" but didn't think a 20'er would be rolling in that day had worked all day piecing plumb and line in the valley got home and the waves were a soild 8-10' backs not faces 20' faces and was living in Ariz for 2 years not surfing at all was out of shape but still was in pretty good shape that wave just smoked my ars it freight trained me so hard as I hit the bottom turn 3/4 of a mile out further than anyone else out there they all got caught inside I got major air at the take off as well as a back wash came up the wave it was pretty fun hitting it had some airtime
where is punta gorda?
Yeah I race motocross and at 40 years old I was still showing the young kids how to get a holeshot,my family has never seen me race or even ride ,but my aunt came with my uncle and it made me worry thinking about how nervous she probably was not knowing that I devoted my life to riding a dirt bike and practice 30 hours more than most people work there full time job,eat sleep ride....
Greg is the type of guy where if your a local and he comes to your break during a huge swell he would give you a handshake and shoot the shit with you before or after the session. Is that true or is he more of a recluse?
how many times is this dude gonna say "you know"
How did you, chase Mave's? Invitees only! Ask Sheriff Dept!
Greg looks like Jake gylenhal
Why does he mention “Peru” if Peru hasn’t big waves...
Sebastián 110vlogs! I
I agree brahs
Also I love Pedro Vasqueze
Uhhh Peru has big waves
11th like
It's really disrespecting life.It's not as if you are risking your own life to save some else's life.How many people will think you died as a hero?Not one.
Sure its heroic. Pushing the limits of what is humanly possible is always heroic and its part of the human condition. Disrespecting life would be being a fat ass on the couch never doing anything of any importance then dying young of an easily preventable medical condition that was self induced.
Andrea Little shut up boomer
but isnt it respecting life to the greatest extent to live life to the fullest doing what you love and being willing to die for it
i watch alot of these and im getting pretty tired of all the talk about how dangerous it is. talk about surfing pls. also its not actually that dangerous in comparison to other extreme sports
good movie all the same tho
wow you are ignorant. how could you say its not that dangerous? you obviously are not a surfer and no nothing about the sport besides form what you watch in this film
andrew cotton just had one off the narliest wiprouts ever on a 70ft wave and broke his back a but will be back in the water soon. its not as dangerous as wingsuiting or back country snowboarding etc. but they try and make it seem that way
Paddle out with me at Mavericks and let's see if you still think that way.
kid would shit his pants just WATCHING the paddle out in person lmao, let alone him being able to make it where the sets are
I’m not impressed. Risking your life for others is the spiritual standard. Life is a gift from God , respect it.
God gave waves, these guys just aren't scared of um👌🏄♂️try surfing 1 day you'll know👌☝️