Nice find. I've had starting problems with my small Honda outboard that has one of these SE thermal valves, had it out and cleaned it up while also doing the carburettor. Did the 12v test and also checked resistance was in spec (manual calls for 15.8 to 24.2 ohms). Still had problems - might check and see if the valve can have the same thread rotation correction like yours.
For how common and old this moped is I was surprised at how little troubleshooting there is for the bystarter. I bought mine new in 2015. It sat for 1 year and never ran right since. No matter how many times I cleaned the carb or did the ECM reset. Hoping this is the issue and I can go back to riding it all day again.
The real thing going on here, from a 60 year old racer, machinist, mechanic: The bystarter solenoid advances into a fuel port, and shuts off the fuel flow when warm! So the choke is on when first starting, and it gets its power from the stator, when the engine is running. The battery will not power this solenoid. I had to solve my problem also, which gets done after you pull out the carb, and examine the 3 fuel inlets inside. The choke fuel well, in the fuel bowl, has a longer tower that doesn't unscrew, its so tiny that a .025 drill bit won't go inside! The idle or slow jet next to it unscrews, and mine was also plugged. Both of these jets need to flow, or you will have no fuel for your bystarter solenoid to allow on through. The other video online from rolling wrench sort of covers this, but not well. What the bystarter is doing is allowing fuel to come up the separate Starting Enrichment only jet, and make it to the SE bystarter valve, so the bowl jet needs inspected first. Believe me, I have looked at every hacks Ruckus Metro CHF50 carb rebuilds, and none explain it to well. I also blamed the valve as the culprit, then the fuel pump and filter, and then finally got into the carb. I got confused by the actual operation of the bystarter SE valve. I was wondering if the SE valve was stuck or gummed up, but the fuel hardened in those tiny 2 jets, which I am now cleaning. These jets are less than .020" inch inside diameter. I am off to get something smaller than a common woman's sewing pin, to clean my SE jet. I ordered a new Honda slow jet to measure the inside diameter. I am nearly running again, and only after fully understanding what the SE valve really does. If I have misstated anything, please correct me! I did have a bad fuel pump, and before that I had hard start and idling issues. I always wondered why my scooter was hard starting, and did the valves, the spark, the fuel delivery was poor, new fuel pump, but the first thing should have been jet inspection, not the last! Parts # 21 JET, SLOW (#35) Honda 16180-GEE-003 and the SE jet doesn't show in this schematic The SE jet doen't unscrew and maybe be pressed in? The main jets #19 and #28 are for full throttle operation, and don't affect poor starting. www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/scooter/2006/chf50-a-metropolitan/carburetor
I know I’m late to the party, but to clean the jet holes you all are speaking of, I have a back that almost everyone has. Take your bread twisty tie and remove the paper on it. It will become a very small wire that will clean the jet holes in both needles. Hope this helps someone. Be safe!
Thank you very much for the video and information, it was just what I needed to fix my metropolitan. 👍
This is super valuable Information. I’ve been having. An issue very similar to yours. I’m going to try this out. Thank you!
@@IFish4Tuna I actually decided to just order a new “performance” carburetor. So it’s gonna be cool.
Nice find. I've had starting problems with my small Honda outboard that has one of these SE thermal valves, had it out and cleaned it up while also doing the carburettor. Did the 12v test and also checked resistance was in spec (manual calls for 15.8 to 24.2 ohms). Still had problems - might check and see if the valve can have the same thread rotation correction like yours.
For how common and old this moped is I was surprised at how little troubleshooting there is for the bystarter. I bought mine new in 2015. It sat for 1 year and never ran right since. No matter how many times I cleaned the carb or did the ECM reset. Hoping this is the issue and I can go back to riding it all day again.
The real thing going on here, from a 60 year old racer, machinist, mechanic: The bystarter solenoid advances into a fuel port, and shuts off the fuel flow when warm! So the choke is on when first starting, and it gets its power from the stator, when the engine is running. The battery will not power this solenoid. I had to solve my problem also, which gets done after you pull out the carb, and examine the 3 fuel inlets inside. The choke fuel well, in the fuel bowl, has a longer tower that doesn't unscrew, its so tiny that a .025 drill bit won't go inside! The idle or slow jet next to it unscrews, and mine was also plugged. Both of these jets need to flow, or you will have no fuel for your bystarter solenoid to allow on through. The other video online from rolling wrench sort of covers this, but not well. What the bystarter is doing is allowing fuel to come up the separate Starting Enrichment only jet, and make it to the SE bystarter valve, so the bowl jet needs inspected first. Believe me, I have looked at every hacks Ruckus Metro CHF50 carb rebuilds, and none explain it to well. I also blamed the valve as the culprit, then the fuel pump and filter, and then finally got into the carb. I got confused by the actual operation of the bystarter SE valve. I was wondering if the SE valve was stuck or gummed up, but the fuel hardened in those tiny 2 jets, which I am now cleaning. These jets are less than .020" inch inside diameter.
I am off to get something smaller than a common woman's sewing pin, to clean my SE jet. I ordered a new Honda slow jet to measure the inside diameter. I am nearly running again, and only after fully understanding what the SE valve really does. If I have misstated anything, please correct me! I did have a bad fuel pump, and before that I had hard start and idling issues. I always wondered why my scooter was hard starting, and did the valves, the spark, the fuel delivery was poor, new fuel pump, but the first thing should have been jet inspection, not the last!
Parts # 21 JET, SLOW (#35) Honda 16180-GEE-003 and the SE jet doesn't show in this schematic
The SE jet doen't unscrew and maybe be pressed in?
The main jets #19 and #28 are for full throttle operation, and don't affect poor starting.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/scooter/2006/chf50-a-metropolitan/carburetor
I know I’m late to the party, but to clean the jet holes you all are speaking of, I have a back that almost everyone has. Take your bread twisty tie and remove the paper on it. It will become a very small wire that will clean the jet holes in both needles. Hope this helps someone. Be safe!
The way you make that lip smacking noise after every sentence is so annoying.
This comment is annoying, stick to the topic.