Pool Pump Motor Humming and Clicking Off: Change the Run Capacitor (Starter Capacitor) Easy Fix!
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- So your pool pump won’t startup. You go to turn it on and you hear a brief humming coming from the motor and then a loud click sound. Is it time for a new motor? Maybe, but maybe not just yet. It could be just the Run Capacitor or Starter Capacitor.
There are ways to test the Run and Starter Capacitor with a voltmeter (see below), but it is often a very simple process of listening to the pump as it tries to start. It sounds similar to when there is a jam in the impeller and this also can produce the humming and clicking off. So check the impeller also for any debris jammed in there. Also, if you have a Pentair Wisperflo pump I have also seen the seal plate warp and rub against the impeller and jam it. But more commonly it is a bad capacitor.
They are relatively inexpensive and very easy to change so it would not be a bad idea to just purchase a new one and swap it out with the old one to see if that does the trick. If you do the math a $10 or $20 part vs a $400 motor, it is very worth a shot. Of course, if the motor has been making loud grinding noises or getting very hot and clicking off it would not be the capacitor but the motor burning out. So you will have to know the difference and in this case you may need a new motor.
The Run Capacitors and Starter Capacitors are motor specific so you will need to get the correct replacement for your motor. There are several ways to do this. The best way is to turn the power off to your pump and remove the old capacitor. You will find the Run Capacitor on the top of the motor in a metal casing held down by 2 screws and most Starter Capacitors are located on the back of the pump. Both are held on by just two wires and the swap out is very simple and easy. Just make sure you have one wire on each of the two separate terminals and not both wires on just one.
Keep in mind that if you change the Capacitor and the motor does not startup, it is most likely burned out. The clicking noise is a safety feature so if you put in the new Capacitor and it still just click or no sound is produced, the motor is probably burned out and needs to be replaced.
You can also test the Capacitor with a Multimeter but there is some danger of it exploding so I only advise this to be done by a service professional. It is easier and safer to just swap it out in my opinion. But here is how you would check it courtesy of Inyopools.com:
“Testing the Capacitor with a Multimeter
Remove the cover at the back of the motor or on top of the motor to expose the capacitor. How To Test A Pool Pump Capacitor
The capacitor will store an electrical charge. It will need to be shorted out by placing an insulated screwdriver across the leads of the capacitor. CAUTION: Capacitors have been known to explode when shorted out. For this reason, wear eye protection and place a cloth over the capacitor before shorting it out.
Remove the leads to the pool pump capacitor. Note the placement of the leads so that you can restore them to their correct positions when you reconnect them.
Set the multimeter on ohms to 1K.
Slip a heavy piece of paper between the points on the switch.
Attach one probe to each terminal. On an analog meter, the needle should move rapidly to right then slowly drift to the left. If a digital meter is used, readings should start low and rapidly increase to the maximum value. If the needle or number starts at zero and doesn’t move, the capacitor is bad and therefore needs to be replaced.”
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Not all heros wear capes...sometimes its just sunglasses and a wrist support.
Watched 276 videos before this one got more information on this ONE video than in all those I watched combined 🤦
Great video THANK YOU!
Game changing video for sure. I can not tell you how many times I have been the second opinion on a "broken" motor. 9 times out of 10 it is the capacitor. So many companies use this issue to sell brand new motors to customers that don't even need it. Disgusting. Thanks David.
i feel you on this
If it is a bearing no need for a new motor an SKF OR OTHER HIGH QUALITY BEARING can be pressed out and a new one installed no need to spend 700.00 on a new motor ..
@@davidcooper4385I work with pump motors everyday. Changing bearings is doable if you can get the motor apart without can bolts breaking. If they do , usually the motor has too much corrosion to bother with bearings. It's a toss up.
Yes. Capacitor failure is the number 1 pump replacement reason. It's criminal. I am in the business so I see it everyday.
David, you are the man! My Centurion pump wasn’t working, had a new one ready to buy in my Amazon cart, and I had just watched your video on how to replace it when this video was “suggested.” It’s as if UA-cam’s greatest pool guy (you) rang me up and said “hang on, man, and try the capacitor first.” My pump is running good as new it only cost me $38. Thanks for this and all your vids; they’re incredibly informative and helped a then-novice learn how to care for and maintain his pool.
You just saved me hundreds of dollars. $12 easy fix from Amazon. Thank you so much!
Just had this issue. This is exactly the remedy, a new capacitor. Feels good to fix it yourself,eh?
Careful with these as well. The capacitor can hold a voltage charge and give you a shock if not handled with care. Even with the voltage to motor being off.
Yes, good point. Rare but can happen. I also like to do one lead at a time on both types of Capacitor to make sure they are on exactly as the old one was.
Hell yeah. This guy out here saving folks hundreds of dollerbucks. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🏆
You can also check it for capacitance with a multimeter...
David, great video. I have a Century Dual Speed SQS1102R motor only 2 years old. Hooked up to an Intermatic timer. Everything was fine until the dreaded humming noise, followed by silence and the motor getting very hot as the timer repeatedly tried to turn it on. I can temporarily fix the situation daily by manually turning on low speed for a few seconds, then turn that off and quickly turn on high speed. The motor runs fine and sounds fine at that point. After finding this video I checked the run capacitor. It was shot, reading .083. I bought and installed a new one. Problem solved...for one day. Now that run capacitor is toast, reading .029. Both have identical stress marks on top. The start capacitor reads fine...65.7. I assume this is heat related. But on a 2 year old motor I'm stumped how this happened or what my options are. Today I ordered another run capacitor to try again one more time.
Century is usually pretty bullet-proof but as you know products just are not made they way they used to be. There are a lot of sub-standard components out there. I suspect the bearings or coils are making the motor run hot. If there is a pool store or motor shop the rebuilds motors I would take it there to have new bearings put in if it is running hot and another capacitor bites the dust. A long shot but if you are in the Orange County California area a great place to take it would be to Advantage Manufacturing - they rebuild motors all day long there.
@@SPL David, thank you for the prompt advice. I suspect the same thing. I previously lived in the Orange County area but now I'm in South Florida. I'll try the new capacitor then look for a shop in this area. I guess I could check to make sure I'm getting the correct voltage but that seems like a long shot.
This channel is amazing
Both wires are black, how do you know which wire connects to which connector on the capacitor?
It doesn't matter which goes where.
Hey man youve helped me in the past I have a question. Fired up the pool pump first time went on fine shut it off then couldnt get it started so did the research and saw it was the starter capacitor, replaced that then it fired up once and let it run for a little bit then it wont turn on anymore same thing hum for 4 seconds then clicks off. randomly it would turn on and run as it should. the motor is not seized by any means runs great when it does but now it wont turn on at all. faulty capacitor or could it be something else?
It depends on the motor age but it could be the bearings going bad and causing the pump to heat up - tripping the fail safe. You can try another capacitor just to be sure.
@@SPL I banged the metal housing cylinder cover with a screw driver 10 times and it clicked on for good can shut it on off no prob. go figure
Do I need to discharge the capacitor (I've heard that) or just take wire off with no problem. Thanks
It rarely is an issue. I don't usually.
Awesome video 💖. Huge fan from the UK 💖
Mr. Pool do have a video on CLOSING a pool for the winter? Thanks
Very helpful. Thank you very much.
Hi! Can’t seem to find the same exact capacitor I have on the pool motor. Model#27L1576;50/60Hz; 440VAC;30uf there are many others but not sure which one is one that replaces it. Maybe you can help me with this please. Thank you!
God bless you!
David, a great tip nice dIY video thanks. 👍👍👍
I need help with mine. I don’t remember which wire goes to which terminal. Does it matter? One of the wires has red mark on it. I just bought a new capacitor but I am unsure on the wire placement. Any suggestions?
Doesn't matter if it is the run capicitor on top of the pump.
AC MOTORS USE ELECTROLYTIC CAPACTORS THEY HAVE NO POLARITY ON AC...
Have a 2hp pump and 320 DE filter. Just yesterday I heard the pool breaker trip I turned it back on and the pool was running for a couple house. Then the pool guy came, cleaned out the filter which was super dirty, and it was working until a few hours later when the breaker tripped but this time it also tripped the main breaker. There is power going to the system but the pump won't turn on/make a sound and seems to have some burned wires. Could this have been caused by the capacitor?
It could be that. I would have him change it for you to make sure. Worst case -the motor itself is burned out.
My pump seems fine but my capacitor keeps failing. Could it be I need to clean the filters sooner? Psi is 17 when clean, I did a backwash at 25 psi and allowed it to get back to 25 psi without cleaning the filters as of yet. This is my 4th capacitor in 2 years.
Hoping I don’t need a new pump.
It sounds like the pump is getting hot so maybe take it to a motor shop and they can rebuild the bearings.
@@SPL thank you as usual, I’ll i do just that.
Do you have to turn off the main breaker???
Subpanel is enough. Or main.
Can you tell me what is happening if the pool pump starts the water cycles like it should but within 5 or so seconds it stops cycling the water completely hums really loud as your first capacitor example and stops. We only have the 1 start capacitor and did replace and the same thing happened. This is an 11 year old pool and nothing has changed in it. No wiring or anything to overload and trip the system. Any thoughts? We now have a green pool in a pandemic lol. We did try to clear the impeller in case it was blocked and nothing came out. Please respond :)
Sounds like the motor is overheating - if the motor is 11 years old time for a new one.
Motors heating up and insulation breaks down motors are wound and dipped one time in varnish and baked companys need motor failures to stay in business just like a car...
Can the capacitor be bad if the pump does clicking and humming when on high speed and it won't come on but it runs at low speed?
For a two speed pump - yes
So another question. If my capacitor 25+10 uf and it's hard to find the same size. How much higher can I go? Is it safe to use a 35+5 they're all 370VAC
@@SPL thanks for the video, in this case: 2-speed pump running without noise in low but with the humming/clicking in high, is it the running capacitor or the starting one usually? thanks!
Hey David do you work on automation systems, heaters or lights???
All of those are pretty time consuming. So I don't do much work on them.
I hear you... I’m in Florida with medium size route of 65 pools.. got a lot of good advice,tips from your videos I’ve probably watched every one of them..
Thanks for the great feedback! With 65 pools you need to pick and choose which jobs to tackle.
What would cause the pump to not turn off?
If it is in an automated system, a bad relay. On a timer a bad intermatic timer.
@@SPL thank you
I changed my run capacitor that's on top of the motor and it's still humming loud. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Maybe something is jammed in the impeller?
Thanks I will check it out.🤞🤞🤞
Did you figure it out? My motor just started doing this exact same sound and won’t come one and I swapped the capacitor and it’s not the capacitor.
I changed out the capacitor and it's still doing the same thing?🤔🤔
Possible the motor is shot. Too bad.
Yea mine too :/
Who are the clowns that downvoted this video?