suuuuppper handy vid, thanks man, been watching all your vcds vids. When i had my mk4 supra i put a catless dump and the stock boost control couldnt deal with it/keep up so would hit fuel cut, i ended up putting an aftermarket eboost controller and was stable and under control again. same happened on my 1jz soarer, big dump just = naturally more boost
Thanks so much 🥳 and hey if you had a Supra I am supposed to watch your videos 🤣 lol. But I can Imagine it was heavily 😎 thanks for the support 🙌 more videos will come soon 🥳
Thanks man 🥳 The tuner did look on his behalf but could not find any problem with the software. So I am still a bit in the dak but spoke to a car shop and they think I must install a mini CAT on the rear O2 sensor as it is not made to receive info so quick without a cat. Its like all the air just gets blown past it. It will be my next step as it is not to expensive
@@megalodononwheelswhich boost sensor is this? Where is it located? I’ve had my VW Touran 1.9TDI BXE PD105 engine rebuilt after a timing belt failure and the guy doing it has done some performance mods on the cylinder head. He has also cleaned all carbon off all parts not replaced, cleaned the caked up turbo vanes, replaced EGR valve etc. Anyways after rebuild we had a judder issue which got resolved when we realised two vacuum lines were on the wrong parts. We still have a boost/power issue, it’s not the same as before but should be better with his mods which he says on average add a 15-20% performance increase. We swapped MAF and MAP off an Audi A3 I have access to but no change
Thank you mate, cheers from Brasil. You are helping to find an issue with my Tiguan 2.0 TSI. When I pull the gas pedal at low RPM's, turboboost build's, and suddenly it appears the N75 valve open and shuts like 2 or 3 times, and then it shuts to allow turbo to pressurize the system. I already change the N75 valve to a new one, no luck. My turbo wastegate is okay, I just got the turbo refurbished. I don't know what to monitor next. Do you have an idea? Other problem is when I am at higher revs like 5000rpm with full boost and I release the throttle and step it on again, I got no boost at all. It's driving me insane.
Hallo hallo. Can you please send me the logs... maybe I can have a look at them :) Ok so with the story of the N75 valve opening and closing, I dont think it is doing that because it is Faulty... It is being told to close because of some condition... such as Boost that might be to much. Please log your throttle body and see if its also opening and closing... and log your rpms with it and your desired and acutual boost along with wastegate if possible. If your throttle body is opening and closing by itself without boost overspiking it can be a tuning problem... is your car tuned? If your throttlebody is opening and closing because of boost overspiking then you have a problem with the boost. Then for your other questions about letting go of your throttle and then stepping on it again, it says that the boost is leaking out somehow... For example... Do you have a dump valve? If yes then its a common problem as it is releasing way to much air into the atmosphere that your turbo needs to spool up again. When did you check your Diverter valve last? Do you have the Revision D one or the one with the rubber diaphragm? If it is the rubber one it is probably torn... Otherwise you might have a boost leak somewhere that is causing your boost to drop. Hope this helps a bit.
Is there a difference between logging turbo pressure data when the car is on the road and when it's in parked and just pressing gas in idle? Most mechanics run the diagnostic on my turbo with the car parked, but most of the people run the car on the road to log pressure.
Maybe when they go into launch control they can see if the boost is picking up like it is requested to. But I would imagine doing a "dyno pull" on the road will give more data to how the turbo is actually performs.
I facing same issue on q3 8u with stock turbo. Turbo was rebuild and diverter valve and n75 was replaced. The boost sensor that you replace is the diverter valve or n75??
Yes I changed the N75 valave... But as you saw, still not fixed :( Butttttt... I found the problem, it was the MAP sensor. For what ever reason the wrong MAP sensor was in the car, I could see it because the part number was wrong. (an Friend gave me the correct MAP sensor)
Make sure you always hit the Turbo button :) Also in some cars the values in VCDS will change a bit but are still the same thing. As an example on my car the boost pressure is called charge air and on another Audi's it is called boost air. So your will just need to play around till you get it :)
You wont believe it... The sensor that was showing the boost pressure 🤣 its called a MAP sensor... Turns out when I called the shop to hear if they have spares they gave me a product number. When i got there and gave them the one I had in the car they told me that the one I called for and this one is not the same. Turns out the one in my car was for the wrong car 🙆♂️
Literally the problem I'm facing on my B7! 😢 Where are you situated fam? May I please use your cable to scan it again? I scanned it a long time ago with an OBDEleven and got the Overboost error. I just wanna scan it again and see if there's anything else.
suuuuppper handy vid, thanks man, been watching all your vcds vids.
When i had my mk4 supra i put a catless dump and the stock boost control couldnt deal with it/keep up so would hit fuel cut, i ended up putting an aftermarket eboost controller and was stable and under control again. same happened on my 1jz soarer, big dump just = naturally more boost
Thanks so much 🥳 and hey if you had a Supra I am supposed to watch your videos 🤣 lol. But I can Imagine it was heavily 😎 thanks for the support 🙌 more videos will come soon 🥳
good vid! def look at a retune now you're running de-cat downpipe. Your tune may require more fueling to keep up with the extra flow now!
Thanks man 🥳
The tuner did look on his behalf but could not find any problem with the software. So I am still a bit in the dak but spoke to a car shop and they think I must install a mini CAT on the rear O2 sensor as it is not made to receive info so quick without a cat. Its like all the air just gets blown past it.
It will be my next step as it is not to expensive
Nc vinteo bro..try LD performance boost control a cheap solution ..but i thing u need a injection cleaner and a fuel filtre..
I found the problem, it was the boost sensor that was the problem, but thank you :)
@@megalodononwheelswhich boost sensor is this? Where is it located?
I’ve had my VW Touran 1.9TDI BXE PD105 engine rebuilt after a timing belt failure and the guy doing it has done some performance mods on the cylinder head. He has also cleaned all carbon off all parts not replaced, cleaned the caked up turbo vanes, replaced EGR valve etc.
Anyways after rebuild we had a judder issue which got resolved when we realised two vacuum lines were on the wrong parts. We still have a boost/power issue, it’s not the same as before but should be better with his mods which he says on average add a 15-20% performance increase.
We swapped MAF and MAP off an Audi A3 I have access to but no change
Thank you mate, cheers from Brasil.
You are helping to find an issue with my Tiguan 2.0 TSI.
When I pull the gas pedal at low RPM's, turboboost build's, and suddenly it appears the N75 valve open and shuts like 2 or 3 times, and then it shuts to allow turbo to pressurize the system. I already change the N75 valve to a new one, no luck. My turbo wastegate is okay, I just got the turbo refurbished. I don't know what to monitor next. Do you have an idea?
Other problem is when I am at higher revs like 5000rpm with full boost and I release the throttle and step it on again, I got no boost at all.
It's driving me insane.
Hallo hallo.
Can you please send me the logs... maybe I can have a look at them :)
Ok so with the story of the N75 valve opening and closing, I dont think it is doing that because it is Faulty...
It is being told to close because of some condition... such as Boost that might be to much.
Please log your throttle body and see if its also opening and closing... and log your rpms with it and your desired and acutual boost along with wastegate if possible.
If your throttle body is opening and closing by itself without boost overspiking it can be a tuning problem... is your car tuned?
If your throttlebody is opening and closing because of boost overspiking then you have a problem with the boost.
Then for your other questions about letting go of your throttle and then stepping on it again, it says that the boost is leaking out somehow...
For example...
Do you have a dump valve? If yes then its a common problem as it is releasing way to much air into the atmosphere that your turbo needs to spool up again.
When did you check your Diverter valve last? Do you have the Revision D one or the one with the rubber diaphragm? If it is the rubber one it is probably torn...
Otherwise you might have a boost leak somewhere that is causing your boost to drop.
Hope this helps a bit.
@megalodononwheels oh and no pressure leak I checked everything, every hose, pipes. All good. Thank you so much mate!
@megalodononwheels If you could tell me beyond n75, boost, rpm, what values should I log in vcds?
Is there a difference between logging turbo pressure data when the car is on the road and when it's in parked and just pressing gas in idle? Most mechanics run the diagnostic on my turbo with the car parked, but most of the people run the car on the road to log pressure.
Maybe when they go into launch control they can see if the boost is picking up like it is requested to. But I would imagine doing a "dyno pull" on the road will give more data to how the turbo is actually performs.
I facing same issue on q3 8u with stock turbo. Turbo was rebuild and diverter valve and n75 was replaced. The boost sensor that you replace is the diverter valve or n75??
Yes I changed the N75 valave... But as you saw, still not fixed :(
Butttttt...
I found the problem, it was the MAP sensor. For what ever reason the wrong MAP sensor was in the car, I could see it because the part number was wrong. (an Friend gave me the correct MAP sensor)
Thanks mate. I have a 1.6tdi CLNA and swapped CR140 turbo with it. Now experiencing boost leak. Checking what went wrong
Ahhhhh no! The worst is when your having a leak 🤣😭 its better than overboosting though 🤷♂️🤣 I think lol... But any idea what it might be?
@@megalodononwheels need to check the intercooler piping.
Found out.. It was cut in tutbo wastegate line.. Changed the rubber pipe and now its 🔥
Dude that is so awesome! atleast it was not something to drastically and easy to fix
For TFSI Generation 3 can i put the same value in VCDS and hit the button TURBO?
Make sure you always hit the Turbo button :)
Also in some cars the values in VCDS will change a bit but are still the same thing.
As an example on my car the boost pressure is called charge air and on another Audi's it is called boost air.
So your will just need to play around till you get it :)
so which exact part that you found out and changed that solve the problem mate
You wont believe it... The sensor that was showing the boost pressure 🤣 its called a MAP sensor... Turns out when I called the shop to hear if they have spares they gave me a product number. When i got there and gave them the one I had in the car they told me that the one I called for and this one is not the same.
Turns out the one in my car was for the wrong car 🙆♂️
Literally the problem I'm facing on my B7! 😢 Where are you situated fam? May I please use your cable to scan it again? I scanned it a long time ago with an OBDEleven and got the Overboost error. I just wanna scan it again and see if there's anything else.
I am all the way in South Africa 🤕... Yea the dumb overboost 🙆♂️
@@megalodononwheels Haha I heard your accent and figured. I'm in SA as well, Midrand side.