To prevent the rear blade cutting edge from digging in, you can reverse the blade. The cutting edge, becomes a trailing edge. The blade is usually heavy enough to penetrate and scrape off the snow. If not, add some weight to the rear blade frame
Thank you for your comment. Yes, a V-Blade has its benefits. I feel a straight blade is more efficient for directing the snow berm away for structures and other areas where it become hard to manage.
Thank you for your comment. That was a head scratcher for me until I hooked up this year. I have never had to adjust the height as my 50-60 yr old back blade has a TON of play in the center pivot. I'm talking 6 inches or more. Hey, if It ain't broke, don't fix it! Thanks for your comment!
I back up and push them ridges on the last 2 rows, plow hits them first and rolls them right over. I have 4wd and use it fulltime. Make sure the blade is pretty close to straight vertical wise, so you don't dig in, either frontwards or back. My 3pt is plenty stout for going the opposite direction. If some snow comes over the top of blade clean it up on the last trip.
Great Comment. As the snow berm builds up, I, also, have to do multiple passes. We have 6" new this morning on top of about 16". Finding room for the snow berm between fence lines is always a challenge. Thanks for watching!
Yup. Much easier on the drivers neck! Honestly, depends on what your objective is. A half mile drive way, you’ll want to simply push/slide the snow out of the way. For your parking area, pushing the snow straight back might require backing with the blade reversed. Thanks for watching and your question! Stay safe and healthy!
Try the PVC hack, I also plow a gravel driveway and it works great. I have a bad quality video of it on the tube, I am waiting for another snow dump so I can do a better job filming it.
Here's a good tip for you!! when you get a big Winrow use the back of the blade go backwards with the blade angled you'll push it all day long without spinning
I bet that would work great with a modern back blade, or at least one not welded back together with batteries and clothes hangers (previous unknown owner). I'm really skeptical of the forces, after snapping the lower arm mount when backing a box scraper. If, or when, I get a new back blade, I'll be sure and try it. Thanks for the comment and for watching. Stay Safe and Healthy!
If I reverse the back blade, snow gets hung up where the 3 pt frame attaches to the blade and won't slide off smoothly. If I don't reverse the blade I dig in and remove all my gravel with the snow. I could plow in reverse but hate doing it that way. Any suggests for snow plowing forward and keeping the blade from digging in? Do those skid shoes on Ebay work well? I'd just like to keep the blade 1" consistently above the surface and my driveway isn't flat. Lots of hills and valleys.
Hi Dave! I feel your pain. Depending on snow depth, I try not to plow it all in one pass. Try holding the blade up just a tad. Be sure your blade is angled enough to dump the snow off the blade as opposed to building up in front of the blade. You might find it better to leave an inch or so of snow on your driveway for the first couple of plowing sessions. Over the course of the winter, it'll compact and ice up, helping protected your gravel below and allow the plow to slide across the top. One of my neighbors swears by his field roller. He rolls the first snow down to make a compact base, then the plow slides across subsequent snow accumulation, without pushing gravel. Good Luck and Stay Safe!
60 HP Kioti, should be able to handle an 8 foot back blade. If tires aren't filled I'd suggest filling with rim gard, Add weights and chains to the rear tires. You shouldn't spin or slide sideways with that 6 foot blade. Personally I like a front blower but they are expensive.
Hey thanks for the comment! Plenty of RimGuard, I love that product. Our 6010 C plows fine in our snow. As you increase the weight, either by snow type (heavy wet), or while combining berms, you'll have tendency to slide, especially if it's on top of layer of compact snow and ice. Thanks for watching!
That’s all I plow. The metal edges on both the back blade and box scraper work great. I don’t angle either aggressively, so that the dig in but only slide across the surface that I’m plowing.
Great video! Thanks!
Good information, thank you.
Thanks Mike! I'm glad you enjoyed it Stay Safe and Healthy!
It’s easy to plow a flat driveway. It’s more challenging when you have a twisting lane way through the woods especially if the lane has hills.
To prevent the rear blade cutting edge from digging in, you can reverse the blade. The cutting edge, becomes a trailing edge. The blade is usually heavy enough to penetrate and scrape off the snow. If not, add some weight to the rear blade frame
Add another blade, make a rear V-blade. No more fish-tailing. Plus increased speed will really throw the snow. When you back up the v becomes a scoop.
Thank you for your comment. Yes, a V-Blade has its benefits. I feel a straight blade is more efficient for directing the snow berm away for structures and other areas where it become hard to manage.
When blade is turned you have or should readjust the 3 point arm leftside is high it will ride better when leavel
Thank you for your comment. That was a head scratcher for me until I hooked up this year. I have never had to adjust the height as my 50-60 yr old back blade has a TON of play in the center pivot. I'm talking 6 inches or more. Hey, if It ain't broke, don't fix it! Thanks for your comment!
Try using some kold kutter ice screws in those ag tires.
I back up and push them ridges on the last 2 rows, plow hits them first and rolls them right over. I have 4wd and use it fulltime.
Make sure the blade is pretty close to straight vertical wise, so you don't dig in, either frontwards or back. My 3pt is plenty stout for going the opposite direction. If some snow comes over the top of blade clean it up on the last trip.
Great Comment. As the snow berm builds up, I, also, have to do multiple passes. We have 6" new this morning on top of about 16". Finding room for the snow berm between fence lines is always a challenge. Thanks for watching!
So let me get this straight, you would pull the snow/backblade (going forward) rather than pushing it/going in reverse or backwards, correct?
Yup. Much easier on the drivers neck! Honestly, depends on what your objective is. A half mile drive way, you’ll want to simply push/slide the snow out of the way. For your parking area, pushing the snow straight back might require backing with the blade reversed. Thanks for watching and your question! Stay safe and healthy!
@@KettleHavenRanch Thank you!
Try the PVC hack, I also plow a gravel driveway and it works great. I have a bad quality video of it on the tube, I am waiting for another snow dump so I can do a better job filming it.
Thanks for the tip Ray!
Here's a good tip for you!! when you get a big Winrow use the back of the blade go backwards with the blade angled you'll push it all day long without spinning
I bet that would work great with a modern back blade, or at least one not welded back together with batteries and clothes hangers (previous unknown owner). I'm really skeptical of the forces, after snapping the lower arm mount when backing a box scraper. If, or when, I get a new back blade, I'll be sure and try it. Thanks for the comment and for watching. Stay Safe and Healthy!
If I reverse the back blade, snow gets hung up where the 3 pt frame attaches to the blade and won't slide off smoothly. If I don't reverse the blade I dig in and remove all my gravel with the snow. I could plow in reverse but hate doing it that way. Any suggests for snow plowing forward and keeping the blade from digging in? Do those skid shoes on Ebay work well? I'd just like to keep the blade 1" consistently above the surface and my driveway isn't flat. Lots of hills and valleys.
Hi Dave! I feel your pain. Depending on snow depth, I try not to plow it all in one pass. Try holding the blade up just a tad. Be sure your blade is angled enough to dump the snow off the blade as opposed to building up in front of the blade. You might find it better to leave an inch or so of snow on your driveway for the first couple of plowing sessions. Over the course of the winter, it'll compact and ice up, helping protected your gravel below and allow the plow to slide across the top. One of my neighbors swears by his field roller. He rolls the first snow down to make a compact base, then the plow slides across subsequent snow accumulation, without pushing gravel. Good Luck and Stay Safe!
@@KettleHavenRanch Thank you!
60 HP Kioti, should be able to handle an 8 foot back blade. If tires aren't filled I'd suggest filling with rim gard, Add weights and chains to the rear tires. You shouldn't spin or slide sideways with that 6 foot blade. Personally I like a front blower but they are expensive.
Hey thanks for the comment! Plenty of RimGuard, I love that product. Our 6010 C plows fine in our snow. As you increase the weight, either by snow type (heavy wet), or while combining berms, you'll have tendency to slide, especially if it's on top of layer of compact snow and ice. Thanks for watching!
@@KettleHavenRanch Ladder chains will save you a world of headaches and you will not slide.
rubber plow edge
Excellent option for plowing on pavement or really smooth ground.
@@KettleHavenRanch I need something that I can plow frozen gravel and dirt roads with...
That’s all I plow. The metal edges on both the back blade and box scraper work great. I don’t angle either aggressively, so that the dig in but only slide across the surface that I’m plowing.