Not boring at all! This is hot rodding gold! This is ingenuity at its finest! Making what you have work better towards a goal is worthy work. Thanks for sharing your expertise, I think anyone who has an interest in the hobby will gain something useful from this.
The Wheeels tho! those are perfect im looking at ordering a set brand new for my 77 Chevy Nova. my father still have his set of 14" daysis that was on our 75 Nova SS when my mother bought it in 87! 👍
I hope he gets patina so dialed in and then at the last second Yanks all the mods off and bolts it into Daisy and restores patina to new cuz that is one sexy car. But I have to admit I'm in love with Daisy. There's something about that color and the mods that he originally did and the way that car sat that is way more aggressive looking. And this is my love letter to Daisy😂🎉❤🤣🤣💗
After watching your MAGIC SHOW for 3 years ( intently) and binge watching (maybe 8 years back) you don't vease to amaze......I hope that you get it to 3350 and counting.....love your content when it is there.....
This video, charger finds, carb tuning video and vacuum engine tuning... So when are you going to start your DVD tv show series? I'd buy it! This information is extremely valuable to every muscle car. Just so happens he's working on the coolest of them all so win win 🤘😎
Awesome video Chris!! You put a bug in my ear with the sway bar / anti-roll bar scenario!! Thanks for that! Hopefully the big guy (VGG) will wanna watch this video!!
I truly enjoyed your latest video Bud, you keep doing what you do.... I'll keep watching, and I get motivated to go out and work on my own cars too. 👍🏽
Chris mentions all the extra radiators he was running trying to cool this beast, what about all the extra COOLANT he won't be carrying around anymore? Might not be much in terms of weight but every little bit helps! Enjoyed the video!
Yeah I think he's actually going to save more weight than he thinks but he probably knows... And then adding the g-forces and transition from left to right. Yeah he's nailing it to the wall 🇺🇲
I have a factory light weight 1999 WRX Type RA (Race Altered). Thinner glass, alloy panels, no sound deadening, or under seal. A foam rear seat. 2557lb's with 30 litres of petrol. 400hp, all wheel drive. Light cars can fuckin' dance, man, you are doing right by that car. It would look amaze balls painted in the original colour. The patina look just looks like laziness, to me. Spend the money where you have, first, absolutely, but finish it with a killer turquoise paint job.
I had a 1970 road runner, 383 car, I believe it weighed 3,900 lbs, it was not fast by any means. It would smoke the tires, but there was a ton of nose weight, you getting down to 3,450 is huge, great video, keep em coming.
You can also lower the center of gravity by adding weight low. I know it sounds a little crazy but the old trans Am series scca trick was using house wide or shallow expanding window foam inside frame rails etc. increasing structural rigidity by up to 30% and also making the vehicle safer if it gets hit. And the foam is a lot lighter but the benefits are awesome 👍. Don't have to but it's something to look into.
Interesting, but I wouldn't do that on aa street car. All those hollow rails end up having water move through them (especially the rockers), and the foam would hold moisture and rot the metal.
On the oil cooler; I live in Florida plus- I drive 5 hours home to see the folks every chance I get and I exceed the posted limits, so for me, the oil cooler works. It's also not the only " cooler" I run, because, Nascar.
The old Chargers are cool but they aren't cheap or plentiful these days. Whats nice is the mopar has a modern rwd platform that are plentiful. Hemi powered to. The charger, 300m, magnum, challenger etc. Pretty good cheap car bodies. That gen 3 hemi is definitely workable. I miss my challenger already. Sold it when i moved.
I may have missed you mentioning it but by removing the extra hoses and cooling devices, you are also carrying less fluid also. Every little bit helps! Nice work!
If i ever have an old mopar again i think id look into getting rid of the rear steer. Put a steering rack on it. Then switch to a rear sump pan. Exhaust fits better also.
Talk about "push". I have had cars with so much horse power (1970 SS 396 Chevelle with built large oval port .30 over 454) it did not matter what direction the tires where turned. With the throttle far enough to the floor my car was going in what ever direction the front nose was pointing in.
I used to worry about that but then I saw this Nova that had probably 150,000 1/8 inch drill bit holes drilled in the frame the a arms the inner fender Wells if you could not see it from the outside of the car it had 1/8 inch holes drilled I can only imagine how long somebody spent drilling all the holes that were in that car
The antifreeze that was in the 4 rads will help i think 1 gallon of liquid weights about 8 pounds im not for sure but cant wait to see her all done but projects are never done
On your Battery idea, I don't know if you know that they make a flat battery. That was used in the Shelby Cobra's and mounted behind the seats so maybe that style meet your needs. Looking forward to seeing it finished, maybe do a video of you chassis dyno/tunning it to see the numbers on it.
In nascar along time ago there was a car that was dipped in acid it took so much weight off the car if you leaned on the roof it would dent nice video Chris. Good luck at the races
Years ago there was a very in-depth thread on Moparts about this weight reduction topic started by a member called fullmetaljacket .It really went down the rabbit hole of weight reduction, titanium bolts, etc and showed how far a street race car can go. Might be worth researching.
I love this! A little different than your other videos. Mixes it up. Also I want to do this to my modern stuff which are definitely pigs too. Great ideas. 🤘🤘🤘😎😎
With all of the added heat exchangers, there is also the weight of the fluids too. Big old car beating up on little racecars is great. I ran my wagon 4570lbs and the only cars that could beat it were dedicated auto-x cars. One of the biggest improvements I had for turning was installing a detroit tru-trac.
A few things that you did not mention but I am sure you have already done. If your car is factory stock. Switch out your cast iron master cylinder to a late model or after market aluminum unit. On the big block motors switch out the cast iron timing chain cover and water pump to aluminum. All of these aluminum pieces are not very expensive and are up high in the car, so a must do. The Dakota Digital guages look cool but are big bucks and I would not recomend buying them if your goal is just to save some weight. Not sure what transmission you are using but if you do not need the explosion proof safety bell housing, going with a factory aluminum bell housing is going to save some weight. I have modified the factory bell housing to adapt it to transmissions it was never meant to go to but that involves fixtures and tig welding to get it right, lots of work. Another thing to consider is ditching the 440 entirely and going with a newer, eagle hemi motor, that will save a few pounds but lots of work to do the conversion and definitely not stock appearing. Some E body cars had Elastomeric body colored bumpers so you can get away with putting on fiberglass bumpers and painting them body color and still remain stock appearing or for the chrome bumper cars, vinyl wrap fiberglass bumpers in chrome vinyl, however I have not done the weight savings comparison between aftermarket fiberglass bumpers and the steel originals but I suspect the weight savings would be minimal. Best to just lighten the brackets like you did. Love your idea of relocating the battery down low and in the middle of the car. There may be a temptation to go with light weight lithium ion type batteries but these have not been proven to be reliable for daily passenger car use due to being recharged on a charging system designed for lead acid batteries and not working over extreme temperature ranges so best to avoid this temptation.
At first I was thinking this was in fun, then I remembered NV legalized pot... LOL in all seriousness, good on you and your dedication. That who power to weight thing is lost on most.
Hey Chris! 2 thoughts. 1. Eliminating all those radiators and hoses you’re probably saving another 15-20lbs weight in coolant and oil. 2. I don’t know how much dynamite is in there, but that stuff is heavy and most people cover practically every square inch possible. If you do some research on sound deadening, a very little bit on a panel makes a massive difference. You can probably eliminate a lot of what’s in there without sacrificing sound quality/driver comfort.
The key to proper cooling is: Mechanical Fan inside a Shroud AT THE PROPER DEPTH (adding or removing fan spacers). Also, it's good to vent the HOT air out of the engine bay via hood VENTS or a high pressure zone occurs. 1967 CHEVY II stays 180F all day long...
Chris - 1 lb rotating mass = 7 lbs dead weight. Aluminum drive shaft, light weight flywheel, drilled brake rotors, wheels and tires etc. put your electric fans on the new rad ahd lose the mechanical fan. love your channel!!
Chris look at taking some weight off the taillight housing, I think they could handle a diet. This sort of thing would keep me up at night, I can’t go to sleep bc I’m thinking about where else I can remove weight.
You got too much time on your hands. Just Kidding. I dirt track raced for a short period of time. We were always looking for weight reduction. When I sold my car, the guy that bought it was telling me I had too much weight and what he was going to remove and redo. I wish I knew half what you do with making cars handle. I know you know what your doing by the way your cars handle on the autocrosses and on the dirt track. Keep on showing us your videos. I enjoy them.
Wondering what you think of the aftermarket front ends with rack and pinion? A lot seem to have heim joints and I’m not a fan of those for street use, also wondering if you tried the Bergman PS box?
Chris, you want to go fast with this Charger? Ideally get a late model hemi, all alloy. Or an LS. IF you must use a Mopar start with a small block, not these truck engines. 340/360 [and 360 is a good deal heavier] with alloy heads intake etc. Get rid of a/c and powersteer, those are for girls. Compare the weight of the 6 speed over Nascar style 4 speed. Alloy bellhousing, Dana diffs are for trucks, as are 9" gunkers. Quick change??Or whatever you have that is lightest. Fibreglass bumpers, bonnet, boot. Delete the trim, lightweight steering wheel etc etc. So much crap you do not need but still have it roadworthy I have been through this 45 years ago. Holesawing, drilling etc saves buggerall weight. Cutting the doors etc up and removing all the mechanisms do remove weight but presuming you still wish to street drive the car is no good. 3mm Perspex over the glass saves some weight though when you start making frames to support it not much. Though you really should start with a smaller and more basic car, a Challenger etc with the above and not hack up a half decent street car.
It’s not racecar…it’s a 600hp street car cruiser that got 19mpg, dynomatted, insulated, 6 speed and will run 10’s along with be a roadrace car. 600hp out of a small block is too radical to get 19mpg and a crappy daily. Don’t want any fiberglass parts as it will sit in parking lots and steel bumpers block body from damage. I think you are missing the point of the car
Most of the Big Blocks I've seen that a 26" A/C radiator couldn't keep cool were set up too tight. Not enough piston clearance, not enough bearing clearance. They move fine when you build them but once running they build heat you can't pull out.
ive had the same aprroach to my car im buiding all unnessacery brackets and studs removed anything i didnt need or use removed its not high hp but it does feel lighter on its feet
I understand your concern over the front sway bar, but I am concerned that your suspension geometry will suffer in those turns as the body sways. A small rear sway bar will keep the car more flat, get that rear around, and make the car more 'driftable". You can still do the hollow bar though. I put an oversized rear bar (custom) on my Viper and it was much more fun in the tighties.
The pounds pick up faster than you think. Less weight, quicker outa the gate. The juice thing is out of my wheelhouse, it belongs in the dentists office. I'm doing figuring how much I can do on my Coronet for the drags. More motor, less weight, more gooder. ( I've been saying more gooder for years) onward!
I heard crown Vic fams work good and keep it cool. Also i seen FabRats buy a $1000 Radiator and it would over heat so he bought a $100 Radiator and it stopped overheating. Paul said he couldn't see theew the mew $1000 Radiator and the $100 one he could and qorked good. So just because something is expensive doesn't mean it going to work better.
Just a suggestion, your car does not have tons of electrics, the alternator is in about the worst place it could be, maybe try a small alternator from a Japanese car. Also see if someone will sponsor you a lithium battery. You might be surprised at how much weight that will save. Great content, with a bit of creativity I bet you can beat your target weight, without breaking the bank.
Hey Chris, can you make a video when you put the lightweight wiper motor in, along with the info on the homemade bracket setup? Also, can you use the stock wiper switch and is it also a "3 speed" ? What is the part number on the lightweight motor?
Does Ron Jenkins still make tubular front X member that lets you change the steering box to a rack which would help the steering and how the car feels no end plus being much lighter. Then there's the engine block swap to cast aluminium, is there a way to fit coilovers to the front and ditch the torsen bar suspension (unsprung weight)?
I don't know if most people realize the amount of work this really is. Nice job
You tied him up with duct tape given a little time you'd probably see him explode like a warhead from space😂
Love the frequent Birdsong uploads lately!
Chris has us all Chirpin! 🎶 😎
I love patina too, I remember the biuld series and love that you found matching panels.
Not boring at all! This is hot rodding gold!
This is ingenuity at its finest! Making what you have work better towards a goal is worthy work. Thanks for sharing your expertise, I think anyone who has an interest in the hobby will gain something useful from this.
The Wheeels tho! those are perfect im looking at ordering a set brand new for my 77 Chevy Nova. my father still have his set of 14" daysis that was on our 75 Nova SS when my mother bought it in 87! 👍
Definitely not a boring video brother. Rock on 🤘
I appreciate that!
I hope he gets patina so dialed in and then at the last second Yanks all the mods off and bolts it into Daisy and restores patina to new cuz that is one sexy car. But I have to admit I'm in love with Daisy. There's something about that color and the mods that he originally did and the way that car sat that is way more aggressive looking. And this is my love letter to Daisy😂🎉❤🤣🤣💗
After watching your MAGIC SHOW for 3 years ( intently) and binge watching (maybe 8 years back) you don't vease to amaze......I hope that you get it to 3350 and counting.....love your content when it is there.....
Enjoyed it Chris!
Forgot ur K frame weight amd Alllll the fuilds - coolent & oils -
And u moved the AC weight moved lower.
Love this!
The womans ear to ear smile at the end of the video was priceless!
When my first box of Dynamat came to the door, I amost crapped my pants. That stuff is heavy...but, I still use it in every car.
This video, charger finds, carb tuning video and vacuum engine tuning... So when are you going to start your DVD tv show series? I'd buy it! This information is extremely valuable to every muscle car. Just so happens he's working on the coolest of them all so win win 🤘😎
This video really lets one appreciate how much work it is to take iff one pound at a time!
I love the fact that he's literally going old school...kickass.🇺🇲
Awesome video Chris!! You put a bug in my ear with the sway bar / anti-roll bar scenario!! Thanks for that! Hopefully the big guy (VGG) will wanna watch this video!!
Chris I love this car I grew up a ford guy but this car has definitely changed my thinking
The smokey burnout pulling the Wreck Runner is awesome
Really cool. I like drilling holes to make things lighter. The bicycle world calls that "Drillium".
I truly enjoyed your latest video Bud, you keep doing what you do.... I'll keep watching, and I get motivated to go out and work on my own cars too. 👍🏽
Watched all, fascinated and got me giddy on the roidal knowledge you passed along here. Superb work!
Cooling systems are as good as the shroud around them, that actually forces air through them, rather than around them.
NOT BORING kannt wait for next videos, hf
Chris mentions all the extra radiators he was running trying to cool this beast, what about all the extra COOLANT he won't be carrying around anymore? Might not be much in terms of weight but every little bit helps! Enjoyed the video!
Good point
Yep, liquid usually 7lb per gal.
Yeah I think he's actually going to save more weight than he thinks but he probably knows... And then adding the g-forces and transition from left to right. Yeah he's nailing it to the wall 🇺🇲
He did mention also losing the fasteners that hold all those pieces in as well that won't be counted.
This was exactly my though. Same goes for the extra oil. Fluid is heavy.
Nice work! Some additional ideas: aluminum driveshaft, lighter seats, delete crash bars in doors… so many possibilities 😅
Seats are already light, already have aluminum driveshaft, 69’s don’t have crash bars in doors
I have a factory light weight 1999 WRX Type RA (Race Altered). Thinner glass, alloy panels, no sound deadening, or under seal. A foam rear seat. 2557lb's with 30 litres of petrol. 400hp, all wheel drive. Light cars can fuckin' dance, man, you are doing right by that car. It would look amaze balls painted in the original colour. The patina look just looks like laziness, to me. Spend the money where you have, first, absolutely, but finish it with a killer turquoise paint job.
Very creative. Looking forward to seeing how it does at MATS.
I had a 1970 road runner, 383 car, I believe it weighed 3,900 lbs, it was not fast by any means. It would smoke the tires, but there was a ton of nose weight, you getting down to 3,450 is huge, great video, keep em coming.
Keep it coming love the content.
You're getting wiser, money doesn't solve problems, brains do. Colin Chapman had it right!
You can also lower the center of gravity by adding weight low. I know it sounds a little crazy but the old trans Am series scca trick was using house wide or shallow expanding window foam inside frame rails etc. increasing structural rigidity by up to 30% and also making the vehicle safer if it gets hit. And the foam is a lot lighter but the benefits are awesome 👍. Don't have to but it's something to look into.
Interesting, but I wouldn't do that on aa street car. All those hollow rails end up having water move through them (especially the rockers), and the foam would hold moisture and rot the metal.
The general finally has a push bar yeeeeessss
The General Lee car is cool
On the oil cooler; I live in Florida plus- I drive 5 hours home to see the folks every chance I get and I exceed the posted limits, so for me, the oil cooler works. It's also not the only " cooler" I run, because, Nascar.
The old Chargers are cool but they aren't cheap or plentiful these days. Whats nice is the mopar has a modern rwd platform that are plentiful. Hemi powered to. The charger, 300m, magnum, challenger etc. Pretty good cheap car bodies. That gen 3 hemi is definitely workable. I miss my challenger already. Sold it when i moved.
So cool Chris, patina is my favorite!
I may have missed you mentioning it but by removing the extra hoses and cooling devices, you are also carrying less fluid also. Every little bit helps! Nice work!
If i ever have an old mopar again i think id look into getting rid of the rear steer. Put a steering rack on it. Then switch to a rear sump pan. Exhaust fits better also.
Talk about "push". I have had cars with so much horse power (1970 SS 396 Chevelle with built large oval port .30 over 454) it did not matter what direction the tires where turned. With the throttle far enough to the floor my car was going in what ever direction the front nose was pointing in.
I used to worry about that but then I saw this Nova that had probably 150,000 1/8 inch drill bit holes drilled in the frame the a arms the inner fender Wells if you could not see it from the outside of the car it had 1/8 inch holes drilled I can only imagine how long somebody spent drilling all the holes that were in that car
Love it. Especially the part about whooping the yuppies lol
That's some cray cray Sheeeat!
Nothing you do is boring mate. This is hot rodding gold.
Thanks man
@@junkerup Nah thank you man, you're a fkn legend.
The antifreeze that was in the 4 rads will help i think 1 gallon of liquid weights about 8 pounds im not for sure but cant wait to see her all done but projects are never done
On your Battery idea, I don't know if you know that they make a flat battery. That was used in the Shelby Cobra's and mounted behind the seats so maybe that style meet your needs. Looking forward to seeing it finished, maybe do a video of you chassis dyno/tunning it to see the numbers on it.
In nascar along time ago there was a car that was dipped in acid it took so much weight off the car if you leaned on the roof it would dent nice video Chris. Good luck at the races
Happy Thanksgiving 🦃 buddy
great video. It gives me plenty of ideas. I know a lightweight battery can drop upwards of 30 lbs
Years ago there was a very in-depth thread on Moparts about this weight reduction topic started by a member called fullmetaljacket .It really went down the rabbit hole of weight reduction, titanium bolts, etc and showed how far a street race car can go. Might be worth researching.
Good stuff, Chris. Thanks for sharing.
From all the regular guys driving ratty muscle cars, salute 🫡 Build it your way and kick some ass 👍🇺🇸
those B-body Mopar handle like a snow sleigh on ice . anyway good luck with the suspension !
One other big weight savings is put the driver on a diet. That could save 100lbs. :)
Chris weighs 125 with two rocks in his pockets. 😄
I love this! A little different than your other videos. Mixes it up. Also I want to do this to my modern stuff which are definitely pigs too. Great ideas. 🤘🤘🤘😎😎
With all of the added heat exchangers, there is also the weight of the fluids too. Big old car beating up on little racecars is great. I ran my wagon 4570lbs and the only cars that could beat it were dedicated auto-x cars. One of the biggest improvements I had for turning was installing a detroit tru-trac.
A few things that you did not mention but I am sure you have already done. If your car is factory stock. Switch out your cast iron master cylinder to a late model or after market aluminum unit. On the big block motors switch out the cast iron timing chain cover and water pump to aluminum. All of these aluminum pieces are not very expensive and are up high in the car, so a must do. The Dakota Digital guages look cool but are big bucks and I would not recomend buying them if your goal is just to save some weight.
Not sure what transmission you are using but if you do not need the explosion proof safety bell housing, going with a factory aluminum bell housing is going to save some weight. I have modified the factory bell housing to adapt it to transmissions it was never meant to go to but that involves fixtures and tig welding to get it right, lots of work. Another thing to consider is ditching the 440 entirely and going with a newer, eagle hemi motor, that will save a few pounds but lots of work to do the conversion and definitely not stock appearing.
Some E body cars had Elastomeric body colored bumpers so you can get away with putting on fiberglass bumpers and painting them body color and still remain stock appearing or for the chrome bumper cars, vinyl wrap fiberglass bumpers in chrome vinyl, however I have not done the weight savings comparison between aftermarket fiberglass bumpers and the steel originals but I suspect the weight savings would be minimal. Best to just lighten the brackets like you did.
Love your idea of relocating the battery down low and in the middle of the car. There may be a temptation to go with light weight lithium ion type batteries but these have not been proven to be reliable for daily passenger car use due to being recharged on a charging system designed for lead acid batteries and not working over extreme temperature ranges so best to avoid this temptation.
I love pateena what a car..amazing
At first I was thinking this was in fun, then I remembered NV legalized pot... LOL in all seriousness, good on you and your dedication. That who power to weight thing is lost on most.
Love the content you put out Chris.
Hey Chris! 2 thoughts. 1. Eliminating all those radiators and hoses you’re probably saving another 15-20lbs weight in coolant and oil. 2. I don’t know how much dynamite is in there, but that stuff is heavy and most people cover practically every square inch possible. If you do some research on sound deadening, a very little bit on a panel makes a massive difference. You can probably eliminate a lot of what’s in there without sacrificing sound quality/driver comfort.
On the hood springs- try using hood pins; they come with the cables to keep you from dropping/losing them & weigh next to nothing.
love the build mentally on patina really cool!
Chris, if you keep removing metal you will end up with a FORD! 😂😂😂
Glen Ray Radiator, clutch fan, and a shroud.
The key to proper cooling is: Mechanical Fan inside a Shroud AT THE PROPER DEPTH (adding or removing fan spacers). Also, it's good to vent the HOT air out of the engine bay via hood VENTS or a high pressure zone occurs. 1967 CHEVY II stays 180F all day long...
Chris - 1 lb rotating mass = 7 lbs dead weight. Aluminum drive shaft, light weight flywheel, drilled brake rotors, wheels and tires etc. put your electric fans on the new rad ahd lose the mechanical fan. love your channel!!
Already done all that, going aluminum flex fan
@@junkerupWho made the General's radiator ?
Luv that car...
Love your videos, very informative! Thanks for the awesome content
Welp what tf are you doin with a back seat in it then? Time to go! 😂😂
That’s where the ladies go
@@junkerupHell yeah 😎
Love this!
Curious how your new neighbors are reacting to your noise. Your last neighbors were LEGENDS!
They got used to it lol
Good shit brother!!!
Love the mix of lbs and metric, not ounces!! Roll with it if that what works for you, tho’.
Chris look at taking some weight off the taillight housing, I think they could handle a diet. This sort of thing would keep me up at night, I can’t go to sleep bc I’m thinking about where else I can remove weight.
Plus the fluid weights antifreeze is heavier than oil per gallon.
Chris it would be really great so see a video with you and Jamie Atwood from Dead Dodge Garage together on a video.
you can run an air chisel over the plasma slag and it chips it off real quick, saves or the grinding materials
Damn I love that car
You got too much time on your hands. Just Kidding. I dirt track raced for a short period of time. We were always looking for weight reduction. When I sold my car, the guy that bought it was telling me I had too much weight and what he was going to remove and redo. I wish I knew half what you do with making cars handle. I know you know what your doing by the way your cars handle on the autocrosses and on the dirt track. Keep on showing us your videos. I enjoy them.
Hey dom we can't wait till you get the charger out of the garage Daisy
👍
✌ Love patina kicks ass
Great content Chris. You and I are on the same page.
I used gas struts on hood hinges. Just a thought👍
Wondering what you think of the aftermarket front ends with rack and pinion? A lot seem to have heim joints and I’m not a fan of those for street use, also wondering if you tried the Bergman PS box?
Chris, you want to go fast with this Charger? Ideally get a late model hemi, all alloy. Or an LS. IF you must use a Mopar start with a small block, not these truck engines. 340/360 [and 360 is a good deal heavier] with alloy heads intake etc. Get rid of a/c and powersteer, those are for girls. Compare the weight of the 6 speed over Nascar style 4 speed. Alloy bellhousing, Dana diffs are for trucks, as are 9" gunkers. Quick change??Or whatever you have that is lightest.
Fibreglass bumpers, bonnet, boot. Delete the trim, lightweight steering wheel etc etc. So much crap you do not need but still have it roadworthy
I have been through this 45 years ago. Holesawing, drilling etc saves buggerall weight. Cutting the doors etc up and removing all the mechanisms do remove weight but presuming you still wish to street drive the car is no good. 3mm Perspex over the glass saves some weight though when you start making frames to support it not much.
Though you really should start with a smaller and more basic car, a Challenger etc with the above and not hack up a half decent street car.
It’s not racecar…it’s a 600hp street car cruiser that got 19mpg, dynomatted, insulated, 6 speed and will run 10’s along with be a roadrace car. 600hp out of a small block is too radical to get 19mpg and a crappy daily. Don’t want any fiberglass parts as it will sit in parking lots and steel bumpers block body from damage. I think you are missing the point of the car
To the underdog !
Most of the Big Blocks I've seen that a 26" A/C radiator couldn't keep cool were set up too tight. Not enough piston clearance, not enough bearing clearance. They move fine when you build them but once running they build heat you can't pull out.
Neither of those have to do with coolant temps, if piston clearance too tight they just lock up
ive had the same aprroach to my car im buiding all unnessacery brackets and studs removed anything i didnt need or use removed its not high hp but it does feel lighter on its feet
I understand your concern over the front sway bar, but I am concerned that your suspension geometry will suffer in those turns as the body sways. A small rear sway bar will keep the car more flat, get that rear around, and make the car more 'driftable". You can still do the hollow bar though. I put an oversized rear bar (custom) on my Viper and it was much more fun in the tighties.
The pounds pick up faster than you think. Less weight, quicker outa the gate. The juice thing is out of my wheelhouse, it belongs in the dentists office. I'm doing figuring how much I can do on my Coronet for the drags. More motor, less weight, more gooder.
( I've been saying more gooder for years) onward!
swiss cheezing the webbing of the hood, fenders and doors might help a lot with the reduction!
I heard crown Vic fams work good and keep it cool. Also i seen FabRats buy a $1000 Radiator and it would over heat so he bought a $100 Radiator and it stopped overheating. Paul said he couldn't see theew the mew $1000 Radiator and the $100 one he could and qorked good. So just because something is expensive doesn't mean it going to work better.
PWR radiator or factory brass, there is no other option unless you do flow testing to match the right core to the pump.
I would love to see what that 489 would do in a lightweight Duster 👍
Yes you got that right Peace out
YOOO***💥💥💥🤟😎
Don’t forget the extra weight loss from the antifreeze to run those 4 rads, run lithium batteries if possible.
Could the 489 be harder to cool than a 440?
Just a suggestion, your car does not have tons of electrics, the alternator is in about the worst place it could be, maybe try a small alternator from a Japanese car. Also see if someone will sponsor you a lithium battery. You might be surprised at how much weight that will save. Great content, with a bit of creativity I bet you can beat your target weight, without breaking the bank.
Patina Vidya b4 Turkeyday👍🏻
Hey Chris, can you make a video when you put the lightweight wiper motor in, along with the info on the homemade bracket setup? Also, can you use the stock wiper switch and is it also a "3 speed" ? What is the part number on the lightweight motor?
Does Ron Jenkins still make tubular front X member that lets you change the steering box to a rack which would help the steering and how the car feels no end plus being much lighter. Then there's the engine block swap to cast aluminium, is there a way to fit coilovers to the front and ditch the torsen bar suspension (unsprung weight)?