Upgrade Best BST-863 with my board | Installation instructions
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- Board presentation: • I upgraded my Best BST...
Buy the board on my tindie store: www.tindie.com/products/rando...
or my shop: shop.randomhacks.pt/products/...
Also check out my Slurp'nPick+ station: • Slurp'nPick+ | A multi...
Forgot to mention in the video, you can of course use heatsink compound for the triac but it is very over-specced for the task (40A) so it isn't really required.
How to remove pin headers without a desoldering gun (in case you need to replace the pin headers on the display): • Desoldering Header Pin...
Affiliate links:
*Ebay
Station: ebay.us/ZjDs0X
45º Nozzles: ebay.us/BcFoJN
*Aliexpress
Station: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AkNC9r
45º Nozzles: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9uQVDb
*Banggood
Station EU/USA/CN: www.banggood.com/custlink/KDm...
In case you are wondering what tool I used to tighten the pot nuts www.thingiverse.com/thing:281...
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro
0:07 - Kit soldering tips
0:28 - Station teardown
0:54 - Remove original board
1:24 - Cut display pin headers
1:41 - Remove any solder blobs on the pins
2:11 - Connect display to new board
2:22 - Remove heatsink and mount to new board
2:47 - Clean station and glue sticker
3:18 - Drill holes
4:17 - Install potentiometers
5:09 - Removing protective film from display (optional)
5:20 - Install spacers
5:41 - Install board
7:10 - Close station
7:35 - Test and enjoy
I'm also on LBRY/Odysee open.lbry.com/@RandomHacks:7 - Наука та технологія
I just ordered the BST-863 hotair station today from AliExpress. Will take atleast a month to arrive. I tried to order this kit today but unfortunately they are not in stock. I did leave my e-mail address so when they do come back in stock hopefully I`ll get notified. I haven`t got either yet but i`m all excited. I can`t wait.
Just realized I never thanked you for putting together this Mod. I've had it installed for almost a year now, makes the unit so much easier to use.
Love it! The best i have seen this far. Bought the kit and it came very quick, upgraded my hotair-station today and it works so GOOD! Recommending the kit which is so professional looking, well thought trough and easy to assemble ( those few parts that needed assembly). Great!
ONE OF THE BEST UPGRAGDE I HAD EVER SEEN, THANKS A LOT FOR SHARING THIS UPGRADE VIDEO WHICH REALLY HELPS A LOT
Works perfect. good job!!!
works like a charm
excellent manufacturing very simple assembly excellent top top product.
VERY GOOD JOB
Thank you, upgrade to Quick 861dw.
Forgot to mention in the video, you can of course use heatsink compound for the triac but it is very over-specced for the task (40A) so it isn't really required.
The knobs are now included.
If something isn't clear feel free to ask 😉
What was the need to upgrade to such kind pf board
Ah this looks excellent! Why didn't they do this on the original design?
statia trebuie cumparata separat din china ? sau o ai tu pe stoc ?
Great modification. Do you have a link where to purchase the knob as you mentioned it's not included in the kit?
Hi, the knobs are included now 😉
Pretty cool upgrade. I have one question. The potentiometer Tool you used. Where can I find the files for that? I have been looking for one. I keep using the plyers and they keep messing things up. It be awesome to have a tool like that.
I got it on thingiverse, I believe this is the link www.thingiverse.com/thing:2818284 I printed it years ago when my printer wasn't even tuned correctly so the print quality turned out quite bad but I still use it every time, it's great.
There's also factory made tools for this, called deep (or long) hex sockets 🙂 They also come in sets along with a socket wrench. Sockets usually have rounded edges, but it's still metal.
wow that's an amazing idea. When I upgraded my hot air station I bought the atten over the best because I really disliked the touch only controls, but now I wish I had bought the bst so I could apply your mod. The only question I have, how do the potentiometers and the presets interact? As far as I can see you used potentiometers instead of encoders, which means they have a finite adjustment range? Also, have you considered sending a review unit to Voltlog? I know he uses the best station and I'd love to see his opinion on it
Hi, yes I used potentiometers, I like the fact that I can just turn the knob almost without looking at the screen to set the desired temperature, if I had used rotary encoders this would not be possible and I would need to rotate the knobs several times which in my opinion would be almost as cumbersome as using the touch screen. You can check my other video where I explain how the interface works (ua-cam.com/video/LG0w-4zyZ5E/v-deo.html). I actually plan to send one to voltlog soon, I think I bought the station after watching his video. Thanks for your comment 😉
@@RandomHacks I see, and I understand where you're coming from. Personally I would still look at the screen for a split second when changing temps because I like knowing what I set my station to, but your mod still kinda makes me wish I got the BST station so I could install it and be able to adjust the settings quickly. I dislike the button mashing on my Atten so much, I might try and mod some potentiometers/encoders on mine at some point. Either way, congrats on your fantastic project and keep up the good work!
@@danandrei96 Oh yes I still glance at the screen of course, what I meant to say is that I always know that if I turn the knob to a certain angle the value I get will always be more or less the same which doesn't happen with rotary encoders as they just turn infinitely. But even encoders would be much much better than using the touch screen on the original board. I'm not familiar with the Atten station, It seems like people who design these stations don't actually use them nor do they ask for user feedback which is a shame as they ruin what could be a perfectly good product. Cheers ☺
how much temperatur can i calibrate wich is the maximum temperatur for calibration.
on my self med nozzel the temperatur is only 350 degree but it show on best 450 degree cann i calibrate this?
Hi, I got your messages, no need to spam 😅
I have a +/-50ºC calibration limit in software and I highly doubt you need anywhere near this limit with my board. The calibration of the first station I bought was also very bad, only reaching about 380ºC when set at 550ºC and after installing my board it reached the correct temperature without even calibrating.
I doubt you need anywere near 100ºC calibration range with my board but I also don't know how your DIY nozzles look like and how they restrict the airflow but if you buy my board and need a bigger limit I can make a special firmware just for you.
@@RandomHacks thanks for your answering . my station has the same Problem i set the Staion to 500°C and get on Nozzel only 380°C.
i will buy it if your board can solve this Problem.
i write you vie mail Thanks very much . please also show my Chanel
Hi there.
Nice to see a fellow Portuguese doing such a nice work. I have one of this stations and if I was to use it often, I would for sure do this upgrade.
A nice improve you could do in a future version is to use rotary encoders instead of potentiometers, is there any reason not to? (I've read the answer given about it, makes sense, yet I would still prefer encoders)
Cheers, keep up the good work.
Hi, thanks for your comment. About the rotary encoders, I don't really see any advantages, maybe I'm missing something. Rotary encoders are great to navigate through a menu for example but in this particular station there already is a touch screen and the 3 buttons so there is no use for the encoder buttons that I can immediately think about and having to make several revolutions of the knob to get to the desired temperature/air speed seems like a disadvantage to me. Is there any particular reason you prefer the rotary encoders?
Thanks 😉
@@RandomHacks I have a KSGer station (that I believe you also have one) and like the rotary encoder system. If the rotation speed of the knob is evaluated by the software, I believe it can be good.
Yet, I like your work very much, just that the analog side of the potentiometer makes me itches...
I've also made some boards (nothing for commercial use) and I'm presently dealing with an energy monitor based on the EmonPi that the software of the Pi part is not working as intended (my 6 year old EmonPi works correctly, but this one with the present Pi software is not 100% compatible and I don't want to stay on old SW), but I will get there...
@Jack O'Neill Im actually working on two different boards right now where I used a rotary encoder and I implemented encoder acceleration as well, it's just in this particular station I don't see the need for encoders, but the good thing is that my firmware is open source and there are extra pins available on the microcontroller so if someone really wants rotary encoders it's a pretty easy task to implement them 😁
It's always frustrating when software doesn't want to work as it should. You might already know this but there is a great portuguese makers group on facebook, it is called "Movimento Maker - Portugal" and there is always someone ready to help. Good luck with your project 😉
@@RandomHacks Não conhecia, aderi agora e já vi lá pelo menos duas pessoas que conheço pessoalmente, um deles da minha terrinha e outra da escola.
@@jackoneill1070 Boa! 😁😁
When removing the old PCB, pay attention to the order of the wires. In mine it was blue/brown/brown/blue (brown is neutral and not blue as seen in this video). The power wires on the new PCB need to go on the same order as they came off.
Hi, long story short, the wiring colors on these stations are all over the place and it doesn't really matter (unless... continue reading*).
The colors in china are red for live and blue for neutral but on these stations they seem to just connect it randomly.
Usually you want to switch live for safety. On my board (also on the original) the lug marked N (for neutral) has a direct connection to the heater and live is switched through the triac.
Now does it matter if you switch them around? Not really, in fact most countries in europe use non polarized outlets so you can just rotate the plug 180 degrees and you swap neutral and live and there is no standard like left is neutral or right is live nor are they marked.
*Talking about this particular station, the only way this can potentially cause trouble is if either someone sticks something metalic inside the handle which would probably just trip the RCD (because the holes are small and the heater shroud is earthed, it would be hard to touch the heating element without touching the shroud) or if someone decides to remove the heater cartridge (it's on a socket) without unplugging the station from the mains and stick something on the connector and at that point that person is probably just competing for a Darwin award anyway 😅
Now on the stations I own, starting from the IEC connector they decided to use red for neutral which goes to the switch on the front (yep they switch neutral) then it comes back (still red) and enters the EMC filter but on the other side of the filter it comes out as blue and then goes to the board so from the IEC connector to what reaches the board, in my case, blue is neutral and brown is live (as per the european standard, did I tell you the colors are all over the place? 🤷♂).
The only real concern you should have is the connection to earth, the chassis and the heater shroud should have a good low resistance connection to earth, swapping live and neutral does not matter.
@@RandomHacks I forgot to mention that I am in North America. The station has a 3 prong connector, so hot, neutral and ground are well defined. I did take pictures of the inside before I took it apart and indeed brown is neutral on my unit.
As long as you connect the wires in the same order you take it apart, I think you will be fine. Thanks again for making a quality product!
@@leonkiriliuk Yes, as long as the heater wires are on the heater side of the screw terminal and the input wires on the input it will work no matter the color of the wiring, if it worked before the board replacement it will work for sure after in the same order. Thanks 👍
Better yet, before you take everything apart, take lots of pictures so in case you need to refer to them later. It has saved me many times on any repairs or updates. You will find out later that something can be installed in different ways and then the picture gives you something for reference that you missed.
Side question… what auto screwdriver are you using?.. I ordered one of these last night.. and your board. Very excited to get it! Was reading the comments and saw in the advertisement 110/220.. was hoping all you had to use was the right cable. It seems the 220 is actually $70 more and I didn’t notice. I got the 110 model as it defaulted to US.
Hi, I can't really recommend the screwdriver, it is quite weak, I bought it because it has a torque adjustment but even in the highest setting it can't loosen most screws.
The 110v version of the station can't work on 220v unless you change the linear transformer and the heating element I don't know if it is worth the trouble, it might be best to try to cancel the order. If you want I can also cancel your order of the board, otherwise it will be shipped tuesday if everything goes according to plans.
@@RandomHacks thank you for the info! I do not wish to cancel the order. I can use the 110 no problem. I just have a lot of 220 available in the office I’m going to use.. I had assumed I could use either.. the 110 will be fine.. as long as they perform the same there will be no issues!
@@themine1500 Got it! I didn't realize you where in the US and have access to both voltages 👍
@@RandomHacks Just got my kit and installed it! Very smooth install.. only issue was the standoffs for the main board screws.. when the manufacturer installed the original board the screws enlarged the boss where the screws went into them.. so the little caps wouldn't fit over the boss.. I gently pinched the ends of the boss to get them back down to size and the stand offs went right on.. it looks perfect! I love the new functionality! Thank you for doing this and sharing it with the world. :D
@Josh Higdon I'm glad you like it! Sorry about the spacers, they fit pretty loose on my two stations, I might have to increase the tolerance a bit more, thanks for letting me know about this issue 👍
i ordered a couple of these how long do you normally take to ship them out? never ordered from tindie before so i was curious. thanks
Hi, thank you for your order, I just shipped them, you should have received the tracking number😉
@@RandomHacks I didn't see any tracking number which was why I was curious I appreciate the response and I'll look for them thank you so much
@@th3drizzl378 Hello
To know the cost of shipping to Brazil, it would be good if you contact the creator of the card, it is the same as this channel, and in advance I will tell you that this card gives a new life to this incredible workstation, the creator of This card has done an excellent job, I recommend it 100%.
Hi, I bought by mistake the wrong model, I need the 220V and I bought the 110V what do I need to replace to male it work on 220V? Thank you
Hi, as long as you did not connect it to 220v (and didn't damage anything else) you need to replace at least the linear transformer and the heater.
@@RandomHacks thank you for your reply, no no I didnt connect it yet, it is still in transit…. Do you know where I can get this parts and the parts numbers?
@@martins.-pach3979 you should be able to find the heater on aliexpress, not sure about the linear transformer. Maybe the best option is to refuse the package so it gets returned to the seller and you can get a refund, the parts are a bit pricey.
S. On your board are 4 big terminals (bottom right hand side) starting from the left is blue common, brown live, blue , brown. This is how it was wired on the original board. Does it matter ? I don't want to turn it on and it goes up in a puff of smoke.
Hi, the important thing is that you connect the two thin wires that go to the heater on the 2 first terminals (left) and the two thicker ones on the 3rd and 4th terminal (right). Ideally neutral should be the two middle terminals as they are always connected to each other and live should be switched through the triac but it does not matter (most countries in europe don't even have polarized plugs). The color scheme used by BEST is a bit of a mess as they start with one color on the IEC connector and end with another past the EMC filter, so short answer, as long as the thin wires are on the left and the two thicker ones on the right you are good 😉
@RandomHacks Okay Stefen ! Which is the CORRRCT way to wire the two thin wires? brown, blue (thin wires)
blue, brown (thick wires)
I know you said it does not really matter still be nice to do it right! =)
@RandomHacks I know what you mean. :D It amazes me that they get rockets off the ground consistently!
Thanks S. For the quick response ! I'm eager to power it up and see what it's like with the new board ! :)
@@decem_unosquattro9538 Per european standard blue is neutral and brown is live so the order (left to right) would be thin brown, thin blue, thick blue, thick brown. But there is a possibility that on your station blue is not neutral and brown is not live, it does not matter 😀
@RandomHacks S. Your a worry dude ! :D
I powered it on and she's working bro !
Thanks again.
I'll just leave it the way they did it.
That was an interesting and fun project build!
I might do a video later.
The black tool you're using to tighten the 10 mm nut looks 3D printed. If so, could you share the STL, please?
Sure, it is not my design, I believe I got it from here www.thingiverse.com/thing:2818284
@@RandomHacks Awesome, thank you!
can be use on on other quick SMD replica too?
Hi, no sorry.
Goodday everyone. i am stuck between bst863 and quick 863.. I read somewhere that best863 is bearly 700watt...?? does anyone has an idea..? i like the best863 to impliment the custom mode. but if its not 1000watt in real world then maybe i will go for quick.. please advise..
Hi, best bst-863 is actually 1200w and heats up to 550ºC.
@@RandomHacks Hi. yes thats what its being advertise and sold as 1200watt. but what i meant to say that i read a comment by a russian guy who says that its only 700watt.. i just wanted the info from a relaible source so i can order one..and that mode is awosome for this station..
excellent product, you can ship by UPS to the Dominican Republic, what would the shipping cost be?
Hi, I replied to your message on tindie 😉
Quanto fica o envio para o Brasil?
@@lindomar.silva.4213 Hello
To know the cost of shipping to Brazil, it would be good if you contact the creator of the card, it is the same as this channel, and in advance I will tell you that this card gives a new life to this incredible workstation, the creator of This card has done an excellent job, I recommend it 100%.
Qual nome dessa peça quero comprar para mim fazer upgrade na minha beste
Olá, pode comprar aqui www.tindie.com/products/24014/
Hi, I have got a question.
I need the 220V version of the station because I live in Europe, but only the 110V version of the station is available.
Is there any difference in the station besides the cable? So has the station both support for both voltages or has other hardware to be installed in the respective station?
Hi, the heating element and the transformer inside the station are different, the 110v version would not survive on 220v. This station is usally available on banggood so they will probably restock soon.
@@RandomHacks Okay, thanks for the reply.
Do you know how the prices changes on banggood over time? Does it go down sometimes?
@@johnny4498 I'm not sure, I paid 135€ for the last one I bought like 18 months ago but now they add VAT so it's probably a bit more expensive. I think it's usally cheaper from their CZ warehouse.
@@RandomHacks Wow that's an absolute steal! It's currently at 213€ plus 27€ shipping :/
@@johnny4498 Wait another year and see how much it cost with the inflation we have now.
Good Day. is it possible to pump the temp to 600C...?
Hi, you would have to change the firmware for that but I don't really recommend it as it probably would damage the heating element pretty quickly. May I ask for what you need 600ºC?
@@RandomHacksI will be glad if you also reply to my other comment about the real world wattage of bst863. wel. i dont think i will need 600C maybe i asked just out of frustration with baku hand held blower which takes me ages to desolder a mosfet..
@@shahsuleman7552 The real wattage is actually 1200w, of course it drops in power as soon as the set temperature is reached as the heating element turns off-on rapidly in order to regulate the temperature as otherwise it would just continue heating until self destruction. I barely ever use 550ºC so I doubt you would need 600ºC, if you can't remove a mosfet with 550ºC then you need a pre heater under your board, otherwise I think you would just roast the entire board 😅
@@RandomHacksou will not believe me but to be honest. currently i am using 2000watt fuhn.. works pretty good without roasting anything but its way to big to hold in your hand without no air and heat regulation..i am just fedup of hand held blower small stations. want to buy something decent.. This mod of your is awesome..for sure will go with bst863..
why they aren't building it simple why. thx for the idea
hm scriu tarziu probabil ca nu mai este de actualitate produsul..a trecut un an de zile
Молодец. Подписка и лайк 👍
Но у меня пока нет возможности купить такую паяльную станцию...
Продолжай. Слава Украине🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦