How to Make a Face Grain Cutting Board
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- I made this face grain cutting board out of American black walnut, Brazilian cherry, and Pennsylvania cherry. A face grain cutting board is arguably the most attractive type because of the visibility of the grain, but it is more susceptible to warping. To minimize the chances of warping, I added a bread board on each end made from Pennsylvania cherry. A strip of Brazilian cherry down the middle will also help with this.
This is a 3-day project due to the two glue-ups that are needed.
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I've glued my ends on several board's and haven't had a problem yet. Your board looks nice
Looks nice but have to agree with other comments that it is not a breadboard end if it is not fastened with mortise and tenon joinery.
Curious if this board is still in good shape 4 years later? I find that (while obviously relevant) most people make expansion and contraction into a bigger deal than necessary when it comes to smaller projects like this...
Hi Sir,
I'm from miles and miles away. I'm new in DIY woodworking. Had spend some money on woodworking equipment. Your vids are inspiring. Keep the good work. I'm one of your fans. Regards
Thank you for watching and for your comment! I'm glad that you are finding the videos helpful.
Really like what you did with this. Great project.
Nice job. I think you realized you should have done the round over before you did the handle grooves. No need to sand the profile by the handles then. Funny how we get ahead of ourselves in these projects sometimes. And yes I would and have made it 😬👍🏼
I love the look of face grain cutting boards. When i make them , i use quarter sawn lumber. That seems to fix the warping issue.
I think this came out looking outstanding!
Thanks, Dale. I just checked out your channel and watched the video where you made the folding workbench. Loved it!! Keep it up! -- Mike
I'm assuming if something "decided" to warp on this board, those bread boards would pop off. Looks great though.
yes, end grain only glued to face grain is muy malo.
Agree. If they (bb's) were to be at all effective in preventing warping/cupping they would need to be dowelled/biscuited on.
Heck ya!!! I will make. Specially when you make it look sooo easy. Subscribed👍
Great combination of colors. Any reason to maybe biscuit the bread board edges?
definitely, its fabulous
Thank you for the feedback. That makes sense. I used oak laminated treadway with one glue joint (two pieces of tread) the oak trim boards overlapped the joint and that was my main problem. If I did it again I think I would try dominoes with pegs like you did.
Hard to believe a flush fit/glued B-board could resist the cupping that the main board will most likely try to do. Especially without a biscuit or dowel or something. Better be a top notch glue joint. It is one beautiful board design.
Very Nice Mike, Well Done. Now for Part 2.
TC, Barry (Eng)
Nice looking project, thank you for sharing.
Very smart looking chopping board
Cheers
Tim from wood 4 nothing
Simple and well done!👍
Yes I would. Very nice & nice shop.
Looks great i just have one question, whats the reason you sand in between oil coats? I sand my boards then wet with water and re sand but once I oil them i dont sand again.
Beautiful, and yes I would make it.
Beautiful
Nubee question here, so please forgive my ignorance. When you trimmed the first cut, you just used your very nice mitre guide to trim. But, after attaching the "bread-boards" you used your sled? What is the reason for the two different methods?
Looks awesome!!
Great job can you give the cutting list of your parts I would like to make one I may have missed them thanks for sharing
Like your board's I've tried just gluing my ends, ever had a problem
Will the bread board ends really help without any jointery for strength?
I think tongue and groove would be more appropriate than mortise and tenon as others have suggested, not only because it would cover the full length of the ends but the visible tongue and groove also adds to the aesthetics. Also you could have rounded over the edges on the router prior to putting in the finger grooves instead of hand sanding it. Nice video though!
Would the bread board work better if you tongue and grooved or use wood dowels?
How did it hold up? I've cross-grain glued boards before and had them crack. Looks good though!
So far, so good. I'll update the comment if it starts to show signs of problems. Thanks for the comment!
Waste of lumber is what it is
Really nice! Love this look. Would the bread board part ever develop cracks b/c it is cross grain?
Thank you for your comment. I am not sure if the wood movement will be significant enough to cause the bread board to crack. I don't think it will be a problem, but time will tell....
well is the board still whole? or has it cracked?
Sorry, I didn't see this comment until now. The board is still like new (except for a few knife marks). There are no signs of cracks at all.
@@Woodumakeit So, it's been a few years. How's the ends holding up?
very nice work
Very,Very nice. good looking. But I have to ask on the end pieces wouldn't it better to use a mortise and tenon joint. Yes I would make one of these I am a cutting board junkie. LOL Thanks for sharing.
You're right. A mortise and tenon joint would be superior to allow for the wood to expand and contract, using dowels and drawbored joints to hold everything together. Several viewers have criticized me for gluing on the breadboard ends. I chose to do this because of the fact that the board is cut into two halves, so there really isn't that much wood movement. I'd like to do another video one day that shows the proper way to attach breadboard ends to allow for wood movement.
Very nice! Maybe you could've done the round over before routing the handles to avoid some hand sanding.
Two things for advice firstly, the bread board ends should be stop tenoned into the ends to reduce any bowing of the timber. Secondly,
the hand sanding of the round over the finger hold could have been completed on the table route.
Thanks for the comments. I agree with you about using stop tenons. In fact, I made another one last night using that method for a friend. The reason I did the hand sanding near the finger hold is because I cut the finger hold first (my mistake). I should have done the round over first, and then cut the finger hold. The hand sanding was required because the bearing of the round over bit would have gone into the finger hold. That wouldn't have been a problem if the board had been thicker.
HOW can I make those handle grips without a router?
Very cool
Yes!
Really nice, I have subscribed and will be making several of these for gifts. One thought, I may try using the round over bit all the way around the board before cutting the slots for the hand holds, what do you think?
I totally agree about using the round over bit first. I learned that in the process of making this one and have made a few other cutting boards by cutting the finger slots at the end.
Great board impressed with the others too, can you share the board demisions please
This one was 18" x 10.5" x 7/8"
I've always just glued my end ever had a problem
Wow! That is really pretty! Nice work. Now I gotta go buy more wood to make one of these... ;-)
Thanks, Jeff! Good luck!
I tried this on a solid wood laminated dresser top and it pulled the glue joint apart within 6 months. Now it opens and closes in the seasons. Northern Minnesota?? Not sure why.
The issue with a breadboard end if it's not properly attached is that it can cause a problem exactly as you described. I didn't use a proper method for this cutting board because of the fact that it's relatively small, and because I had three separate pieces glued up to form the cutting surface, so the likelihood of cracking due to wood expansion is much lower. The wood expands and contracts more across the grain than it does along the grain, so that's what causes this problem.
To allow for wood movement, the breadboard ends should be attached with a mortise and tenon style of a joint. Here's an example of how I did that on a serving tray that I made. ua-cam.com/video/7rN5bELtf30/v-deo.htmlm45s
Molto bravo! 👍
How did this cutting board held up over the last two years?
It has held up really well apart from normal wear. The glued-on breadboard ends are still intact. Just an occasional coat of mineral oil keeps it looking nice.
Fantastic thanks for the response.
@@Woodumakeit nice board bro. I wood love to see an update on it.
+Wood U Make It... It's been almost a year since you put this video out so I assume it has been at least a year since you made the cutting board. How is it holding up? Has it split because of glueing the bread boards? Really would like to know.
Thanks for asking! Apart from a few knife marks, the joinery has held up very well. I know some viewers were critical that I didn't use a mortise and tenon with dowels (or some other variation), which is definitely a more proper way, but I don't think there's that much wood movement for a board this small. I've made several others using those other methods, but I've not made a video yet. Maybe I'll posts one when I get some free time. -- Mike
I can't help but agree with @Wood U Make It. In my early years of woodworking I did the same -- making some breadboard style side tables for my home. 7 years later and the tops have remained solid and stable with no issues whatsoever. Even after moving three times and being in very different locations humidity-wise. It may not be proper, but that doesn't mean it'll explode into flames either...
@@sam-and-angela a job worth doing is worth doing right.
Beautiful job! the name of Brazilian wood is Ipê.
Thanks for your comment! I'm pretty sure that ipe is much harder than the wood that I used. I suspect it was jatoba, but I'm not 100% sure.
Ok Thank you !
Love it!
hey thank you i need to re set my box joint jig they are too tight will get it sooner or laiter
Awesome vid! Question: Did you make only one this time for the video, or do you make several at a time?
Thanks for your comment. I made just this one cutting board for the video, but it's more efficient to make several at a time if you want to make them as gifts or to sell. At that point, you're just limited by space and the number of clamps you have (which is never enough).
Yes I will :)), Great job, Thank You,
After sanding, before applying the finish, do you wipe off the sawdust with something? Thank you!
Sometimes I'll blow off the excess dust with my air compressor, but it's not that important to remove every last bit of dust like you would want to do if you were applying a polyurethane finish. Any remaining dust will be picked up by the rag when wiping the board with mineral oil.
Wood U Make It so same thing with boiled linseed oil? Just wipe it off but don't worry too much about excess dust?
Unlike mineral oil, linseed oil is what they call a drying oil because it hardens to a tough film after it has been exposed to air. In this case, some dust could become trapped under the film, so I would be more careful about removing the dust. Wiping it with denatured alcohol or acetone after sanding would help to remove the dust.
Wood U Make It thank you!
when you wet your boards, do you soak them or just spray them?
I just wet them quickly by running them under the tap and then wiping off the excess. It is important not to soak the boards because they will soak up too much water and probably warp. The purpose of wetting them is just to raise the grain on the surface, so soaking is not necessary. It takes a surprisingly small amount of water to get the grain to raise.
The convincing of the colors d ela wood used, is super cute, thanks for uploading videos so we are going to make it us success in all your projects, some tools tengp others not, but if I encourage you to make one for me ... hugs
Great cutting board and love the video! Can I please know how's the durability and the impact on knife on face grained ones with respect to edge and end grain cutting boards ? Thank you!
Face grain cutting boards are hell on a knife. So much so I'll only ever own end grain cutting boards.
thank you . I would make it.
Very cool! Subscribed...
Thanks!
Thanks
just mineral oil? does it seal wood for good?
Mineral oil is an ideal finish for cutting boards because it is food safe and it wears well. You wouldn't want to use a urethane finish because it would scratch too easily. Cutting boards need to be gently washed with a mild soapy water after each use, and eventually most of the oil will be washed off, so it's a good idea to wipe on some more mineral oil every once in a while.
some people say that beewax should be mix up with mineral oil for better sealing...
I am pretty sure that mineral oil with beeswax would be even better because the beeswax would help to seal the wood, but I've been very satisfied with just the mineral oil.
The best process to use is soaking the board with mineral oil until it wont drink it any more and then do a beeswax and mineral final coat
@@daveklein2826 ; nothing final. once a week, mineral oil.
I chuckled a bit when I saw how you were going to make your breadboard ends. Not because I thought you inept or ignorant, but because I knew the comments section in this cesspool we call UA-cam would likely explode. I’ve been watching people defy wood movement rules for years whose furniture doesn’t seem to explode like the internet demands that it would. Usually it’s the keyboard woodworkers whose knowledge is limited to their screen time who get the most upset. Good on you for your boldness because having seen your videos I don’t think you were ignorant of that convention, but chose to take the chance. I would, however, argue that what you made does not in fact have breadboard ends. Faux breadboard ends, perhaps, but a mechanical connection of some sort marks a true breadboard end. But hey, if it falls apart tomorrow you got quite a bit of use out of it and it requires little time and materials to replace it. Look forward to seeing more from your channel!
Thanks for your comment. I was trying to do this as a simple project, but you're right about some of the comments. I made a serving tray video recently with three types of joinery, including proper breadboard ends. Thanks for watching!
do you like the incra miter gage
Apart from the INCRA miter gauge, I've only had experience with the standard miter gauges that come with table saws. I've used plenty of saws and am on the third one of my own, and none of those miter gauges were very accurate, in my opinion. I really do like the INCRA miter gauge due to its accuracy as well as all the features that it provides (adjustable miter fence length, infinitely adjustable stop adjustment, v-cutouts for accurate set-up of common angles).
can I use red oak for a cutting board
Red oak is an open-grained wood so it is more likely to harbor bacteria than other woods, such as white oak, which is closed-grained. That being said, oak also has tannins that have antimicrobial properties, so it would probably be ok. There are plenty of red oak cutting boards out there, so I wouldn't be too worried about using it, but keep in mind that there are better choices. If you want something that has the look of oak, hickory might be a good option.
Wood U Make It thank you
My favorite board is a red oak board. It's like 20 years old now. Never had any issues with it. Like most things if you wash it right after you are done cooking. It washes up with ease. I oil it once a week too. Wood is naturally anti microbial anyway.
I would have biscuit jointed the end boards on.
I would, I did and I am making some extra cash selling them
Pekná
I would've used biscuits to join the boards together. Looks good though.
What would the biscuits do?
what size
It is 18" x 10.5" x 7/8", or about 450 mm x 265 mm x 22 mm
Чего не торцовую доску сделал?
You probably should have provided the size of the project to allow us to imagine a better picture and know our measurements.
Just make it to any size you want.
Beautiful work! Does anyone else see it resemble a giant iPhone here? ;-)
Haha, true!
Rub oil in with your hand. Cloth ends up with alot of oil in it
👍
👍 👍 👍
Make it? Probably not. I wood buy it tho
Looks like you almost cut your finger off at 2:49 and didn't even realize it
IF i had the rights tools i would
this is absolutely NOT how to make a cutting board. Never butt joint end grain to cross grain. Wood, particularly when used in a cutting board format, will get wet and expand across the grain at the different rate than with the grain. This will result in either cracks, or, more likely in this case, with the "bread boards" falling off since since the glue bond will be weak.
And yet according to him, none of these things have happened 🤔.
i get my incra 1000 hd friday on my 78th birthday
Very nice! I hope you get many years of use out of it, and enjoy the precision that the HD offers (I have the SE). Best wishes for your birthday!
Dude. Dowels. Duh.
what i was thinking, that or
biscuts
If you like woodworking, just look for Stodoys plans.
There are many similar projects in Woodglut's plans.
this video should be titled "how NOT to make a cutting board"
I agree
abe wilcox oh.dear.god.no!
Why? Because it is not end grain? There are millions of edge grain cutting boards used every day without a problem. I'm not asking to be confrontational, real question as I'm learning as I go.
The breadboard was glued along its entire length; there's no way for the main portion to "move" with seasonal expansion/contraction. The piece is small so it may take a while to fail, but it will eventually . . .
Normally a mistake beginners make. I was watching the video thinking "he's not is he?".
Shame. Someone makes a video and shows you how to do something and it’s meant to be accurate. This is as far from being a properly executed breadboard edge/clamp joint as it is to knitting a quilt. Terrible.
And yet he said it's help up fine. So what's so terrible?
You sound like you know what you're doing. Very deceptive 🤣
There is no reason to make a face grain cutting board for the reasons you mention. So I will never make one of these, will continue making edge and end grain boards.