Thanks for this video. I too have a "ridiculously large" table sled to accompany my normal size one. Keep the humor in the videos. I love humor in videos such as this. Earned a new subscriber.
Love the Great Videos. Like learning new techniques in the wood shop. Also, gotta say that I really like the shirt you were wearing in this video. I am a Navy Veteran.
Thank you for making such a wonderful video and explaining the process. Very clear and lots of great tips. I’m confused on one section. You started out with three foot boards. Then made three 9” cuts to get your 9 x 12 boards. Don’t you need to start with something larger than 36” to do that?
In general, yes you would need a little more than 36" to cut 4 9" boards. Either my starting boards were a little longer than 36" or I compensated for the blade width and cut the boards a little under 9" to get 4 complete boards out of the material I had and minimize waste.
That's a great design! I made a few cutting boards and charcuterie boards with different designs but I think I'll try yours for a batch if you don't mind.
I would recommend using a using a Fibonacci gauge to determine the width and length of your cutting boards. Also for the widths of your glue strips. It is very pleasing to the eye. Classic architecture uses Fibonacci ratios as does creation. The proportions of your fingers to your hand is an example.
I don't have a jointer so I clamp my rough boards on a plywood sled 12x48 and flush cut 1 edge. That edge will then run against rip fence to make whatever width boards I need. I believe edge grain cutting boards makes better cutting boards than face grain,, but it a lot more work. Titebond 3 is my glue of choice.
Boards processed to S2S are commonly avail at Hardwood Dealers. It's easy to make a tapering jig that gives ya ability to cut a straight edge. Then take to table saw to get other edge parallel and square to surfaces. Good luck!
Search for hardwood dealer or sawmills in your area. I can guarantee there are places that sell hardwoods in FL. I had no trouble when I was living near Tallahassee, and with just a quick google search I found a hardwood dealer in Orlando. You can also order online if you can’t find the specific species you want. I’ve had great success ordering from Bell Forest Products.
Yes, you can. I label the used mineral oil "dirty" so I don't get it mixed up with pure mineral oil. There will be a little wood dust and debris that get into the oil and I don't want to use that for things like making my board butter.
Great video starting my way through your videos so they'll be few comments. 1 thing I've done recently cause ave not got shop set up yet is a plane/block plane as an edge profile. Other question got shop now gonna be setting up pretty soon looking at next tool. Got table saw planer sanders etc next tool in your opinion jointer/bandsaw or tracksaw going down cutting boards/cheese boards live edge tables and smalls?? 🏴👍
You've got a great start! That's all I had for a while when I first started. The next tool should depend on your specific needs. If you are wanting to work with more rough lumber and mill it down yourself, then you need a good jointer. If you are wanting to re-saw thick lumber into thinner panels or cut curves, the you should start looking for a bandsaw. A track saw is a nice to have upgrade and not essential tool. I have a couple videos that show you an alternative method just using a circular saw. One thing you didn't mention is a router table. If you don't have one, this will make cutting profiles on edges much easier.
@@biscuittreewoodworks i have a router which has a table to attach to it although its not been set up or looked at but that will be something a look at. I think it's probably gonna end up being bsndsaw as I get allot of oversized stuff that could do with being resawn ie logs etc but then again I mill allot of my slabs myself so it's kinda hard one.
Very nice! These are face-grain boards. Does that mean they are 3/4" thick? I really want to do an edge-grain board about 1 1/4" thick. Do you have any vids on that?
These boards are 3/4" thick. If you want to make thicker boards you have a couple options. You can but thicker material such as 6/4 or 8/4 boards and follow the exact same steps. Or, you cut some pieces about 1-1/2" wide, turn them on edge, and glue them together to make a board that is 1-1/2" thick. After you cleanup the faces you should have about a 1-1/4" board.
@@biscuittreewoodworks - Yes, I want to do it the second way you mentioned. Just wondering how I'd cut strips for the inlay as my wood is only 3/4 thick? How do I get 1 1/2" wide strips?
@@robira1313set your table saw fence to cut 1-1/2”. Run you 3/4” board through and you have a strip that is 3/4” thick and 1-1/2” wide. Rotate it 90 degrees onto its side and it’s 3/4” wide by 1-1/2” thick. Glue a bunch of those together and you have a 1-1/2” thick cutting board.
Do we need to dry the wood slab in kiln drying to remove the moisture content in the wood before starting any cutting or planning ? If yes, what should be the moisture level required ??
The wood doesn't have to be kiln dried, but it needs to have a low moisture content. Below 15% at a minimum, and closer to 8% is better. This can be achieved by air drying the wood, it just takes much longer than kiln dried.
Sir , I’m new at this and I like the video a lot ty . How many strips from each type of wood did you make and I noticed when you glued them, they were not evenly together. Why is that?
I think I said it in the video, but if not, I did two narrow strips and one wider strip from each board. The ends are not even because hardwood lumber rarely comes in the exact same length. It's not sold like construction lumber in standard dimensions. Hope that helps!
I think the thickness planner is absolutely required for making cutting boards. I would say because of it, it's not a project for beginners with minimal tools. I can be convinced that table saws and miter saws are basic tools (although not cheap) because they can be used for other projects around the house, but not the planner.
Yes a planer is very important! Although I think my first cutting board was before I got one. I remember flattening it by hand! I didn’t even have a random orbital sander!
Correct me if I’m wrong, shouldn’t you use tight bond three for any surface that’s going to get wet? I’m not a beginner but I’m also not an expert so I’m honestly curious.
You can use Titebond III if you prefer, but it’s not at all necessary. Titebond II is water resistant and offers plenty of protection from the kind of moisture a cutting board would see. I’ve used it for many years and never had an issue. I only use Titebond III on outdoor projects that will be the the weather.
Thank you for your video. I have a question about your dust collection that you use on your dewalt planer. Where did you get that adapter for this planer? I have that exact one and I’ve been trying to find it.
Hi Lori, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! As for the planer, there's no adapter used on the planer in the video. I have the factory dust hood on the planer and connected it directly to my Jet dust collector via a 4" flexable hose.
All depends on how you use it. You can't chop or carve large pieces of meat on it like you can with end grain, but they are great for smaller tasks like cutting vegetables, cheeses, fruits.
Only if you are trying to start with my exact tools which I've collected over 10+ years. You can get a table saw for a couple hundred bucks, glue and clamps are cheap, a planer is a few hundred but I mention you don't need it if you just sand the boards flat, and you can hand sand instead of getting a sander.
@@biscuittreewoodworks thank you for the reply , what other wood would you suggest? I’m from uk so trying to find anything you were using is quite difficult 😄
@@BE27E I listed several wood species I recommend in the video description. I’m not familiar with what is available in the UK, but you may be able to order online if you can not find in your local area.
When you look at a typical board, the grain lines run from one end to the other. That's the long grain, also referred to as face grain. If you look at the very end of the board, that is the end grain. The cutting boards in this video are long grain or face grain boards. You can also chop up the long grain and rotate the pieces 90 degrees so the end grain is facing up. Then glue all those pieces together, that would be an end grain board.
In general my pricing depends on the cost of materials, how complex the design, and how long it takes to make them. I list these for $55 each. I have an option to add rubber feet for an additional $5.
@@larryscaduto If I remember correctly, after I deduct all expenses; materials, supplies, labor, and shipping profit is around $10 per board. When I sell these I offer an option to add rubber feet to the board for $5, this is a very minimal cost for me but is a big profit booster and most people will opt for the upgrade.
It’s not necessary and kind of overkill for this application. Titebond 2 is water resistant which is plenty for cutting boards. I only go to Titebond 3 when the project will be outdoors or exposed to constant moisture like a shower stool. I’ve used Titebond 2 on cutting boards for 12+ years and never had an issue with moisture in a glue joint.
Both are safe for direct food contact. Below is the statement directly from the manufacturer. All of our Titebond wood glues are safe to use and produce no harmful fumes. They meet the requirements of ASTM D4236 for safe use with arts and crafts. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards.
I was inspired by his video and a few others, but it is not intended to be an exact copy. There are a few things that I have a differing opinion on that I stated in the video.
I was going to comment the same, because I just watched the other video and it is indeed almost the same. However, I do appreciate the somewhat slower and slightly extended explanations. And it never hurts to see a few iterations of the same project. Thanks.
I don't get it. I've been cooking since 1982 and i have never used a wood cutting board, why would i, anyone that took even a 7th grade science class knows wood soaks up every bug, yes even after you linseed oil it. I don't know what millennial is buying this crap since they can't afford to buy a house and on top of that there's 900 of you on you tube doing videos on cutting boards, i guess its the paper mache of woodworking. I wish you tube would evolve to lets us ban a subject and anyone saying you can make millions making cutting boards, might as well take that India truck warranty.
Well for one, contrary to what you stated, wood is proven to be naturally antimicrobial. Scientists at the University of Wisconsin have found that 99.9% of bacteria placed on a wooden cutting board begin to die completely within minutes. Professional chefs have been using them for generations. Plastic cutting boards on the other hand have been proven to harbor bacteria and should be avoided. Second, if you are so set against wood cutting boards and believe there are way too many YT videos on them, why did you click on this video?
this was a great video! Simple and straight forward instructions and details without giving too much and being boring. Excellent work!
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching!
Your content IS Great, short and Sweet. Thanks for not blinding u Newbies with nonsense.
Thank you!
For sanding I like to use a cheap, thin yoga mat on my bench. It’s grippy so boards don’t slide all around like that
Great idea! I sometimes use drawer liners or a movers blanket.
Thanks for this video. I too have a "ridiculously large" table sled to accompany my normal size one. Keep the humor in the videos. I love humor in videos such as this. Earned a new subscriber.
Happy to hear you enjoyed the video! Thank you!
Fantastic video, love the way you show different options for the process. Clear, concise and easy to follow. Keep up the good work my man.
Glad it was helpful!
This video was very helpful and had some great tips. Thank you
Glad you liked it!
👍 Thumbs Up !! For a straight-forward, simple, WELL presented video. This will help me a GR8 deal
Awesome, thank you!
Finally a solid video on this perfect for all levels this is my Xmas plan everyone gets cutting boards 😂
Awesome! Glad you like the video!
Love the shirt! Ooooh Rah!
Thanks! Semper Fi!
thanks for the information. I like your videos very much, they contain a lot of content. greetings from Poland
So nice of you! Thanks for watching!
Love the Great Videos. Like learning new techniques in the wood shop. Also, gotta say that I really like the shirt you were wearing in this video. I am a Navy Veteran.
Thanks!
Thank you for making such a wonderful video and explaining the process. Very clear and lots of great tips. I’m confused on one section. You started out with three foot boards. Then made three 9” cuts to get your 9 x 12 boards. Don’t you need to start with something larger than 36” to do that?
In general, yes you would need a little more than 36" to cut 4 9" boards. Either my starting boards were a little longer than 36" or I compensated for the blade width and cut the boards a little under 9" to get 4 complete boards out of the material I had and minimize waste.
Those walnut boards looked Nice!
Thanks!
Good job and project thx for sharing enjoyed it Be safe stay well and God Bless
Thanks, you too!
Nicely explained and to the point. Thanks for this tutorial
Thank you!
Very informative step by step instructions. Great work.
Thanks!
Nice boards! Great instruction !
Thank you!
That's a great design! I made a few cutting boards and charcuterie boards with different designs but I think I'll try yours for a batch if you don't mind.
Definitely! Feel free to copy these or change it up!
Thanks for the video and Semper Fi!
Semper Fi!
I would recommend using a using a Fibonacci gauge to determine the width and length of your cutting boards. Also for the widths of your glue strips. It is very pleasing to the eye. Classic architecture uses Fibonacci ratios as does creation. The proportions of your fingers to your hand is an example.
Interesting idea. I wonder how far I can take that?
Excellent video thank you for putting this together I will check out more of your videos for sure
Awesome, thank you!
Great video!. From Brazil.
Thanks!
Awesome video! Nice job.
Thanks!
Great video, great looking boards. Lovely.
Many thanks!
Great video. They came out really nice and seem very easy to do.
Thank you!
I don't have a jointer so I clamp my rough boards on a plywood sled 12x48 and flush cut 1 edge. That edge will then run against rip fence to make whatever width boards I need. I believe edge grain cutting boards makes better cutting boards than face grain,, but it a lot more work. Titebond 3 is my glue of choice.
That works too! Thanks for watching!
Boards processed to S2S are commonly avail at Hardwood Dealers. It's easy to make a tapering jig that gives ya ability to cut a straight edge. Then take to table saw to get other edge parallel and square to surfaces. Good luck!
My local place doesn't have that option. It's either S3S, S4S, or rough lumber, but thanks for sharing the tip to help those with that option!
@@biscuittreewoodworks ... Dang! Come to think of it, my dealer is same
Senior moment ... again.
@@knolltop314 Lol! No problem! Maybe it will help someone!
Great video, thanks!
👍
Thank you for sharing this video , very to the point and no complicated tricks. I'll now subscribe and follow your videos! Cheers !
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Fantastic video. I'm going to try out that T-9
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
nice job, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Good luck getting any hardwoods in FL. Pretty much only pine sold here with the odd Cedar boards.
Search for hardwood dealer or sawmills in your area. I can guarantee there are places that sell hardwoods in FL. I had no trouble when I was living near Tallahassee, and with just a quick google search I found a hardwood dealer in Orlando. You can also order online if you can’t find the specific species you want. I’ve had great success ordering from Bell Forest Products.
Very well explained
Thanks!
Great video!! Thank you!!
Glad you liked it!
Great Video👍
Thanks 👍
newbie question...Can you pour the mineral oil back in the bottle for future use? Love your channel.
Yes, you can. I label the used mineral oil "dirty" so I don't get it mixed up with pure mineral oil. There will be a little wood dust and debris that get into the oil and I don't want to use that for things like making my board butter.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Thank you so much!
Very good info. 😊
Thanks!
Excellent explanation! Would mind sharing you wax to mineral oil ratio?
Absolutely! I use 4 parts oil to 1 part wax. This creates a very soft paste that can be easily applied to the board.
Absolutely beautiful. Do you sell these online? Thanks.
Yes, I have a shop on Etsy where I sell these and several other products. I added a link in the video description.
Great video starting my way through your videos so they'll be few comments. 1 thing I've done recently cause ave not got shop set up yet is a plane/block plane as an edge profile. Other question got shop now gonna be setting up pretty soon looking at next tool. Got table saw planer sanders etc next tool in your opinion jointer/bandsaw or tracksaw going down cutting boards/cheese boards live edge tables and smalls?? 🏴👍
You've got a great start! That's all I had for a while when I first started. The next tool should depend on your specific needs. If you are wanting to work with more rough lumber and mill it down yourself, then you need a good jointer. If you are wanting to re-saw thick lumber into thinner panels or cut curves, the you should start looking for a bandsaw. A track saw is a nice to have upgrade and not essential tool. I have a couple videos that show you an alternative method just using a circular saw. One thing you didn't mention is a router table. If you don't have one, this will make cutting profiles on edges much easier.
@@biscuittreewoodworks i have a router which has a table to attach to it although its not been set up or looked at but that will be something a look at. I think it's probably gonna end up being bsndsaw as I get allot of oversized stuff that could do with being resawn ie logs etc but then again I mill allot of my slabs myself so it's kinda hard one.
Very nice! These are face-grain boards. Does that mean they are 3/4" thick? I really want to do an edge-grain board about 1 1/4" thick. Do you have any vids on that?
These boards are 3/4" thick. If you want to make thicker boards you have a couple options. You can but thicker material such as 6/4 or 8/4 boards and follow the exact same steps. Or, you cut some pieces about 1-1/2" wide, turn them on edge, and glue them together to make a board that is 1-1/2" thick. After you cleanup the faces you should have about a 1-1/4" board.
@@biscuittreewoodworks - Yes, I want to do it the second way you mentioned. Just wondering how I'd cut strips for the inlay as my wood is only 3/4 thick? How do I get 1 1/2" wide strips?
@@robira1313set your table saw fence to cut 1-1/2”. Run you 3/4” board through and you have a strip that is 3/4” thick and 1-1/2” wide. Rotate it 90 degrees onto its side and it’s 3/4” wide by 1-1/2” thick. Glue a bunch of those together and you have a 1-1/2” thick cutting board.
Do we need to dry the wood slab in kiln drying to remove the moisture content in the wood before starting any cutting or planning ? If yes, what should be the moisture level required ??
The wood doesn't have to be kiln dried, but it needs to have a low moisture content. Below 15% at a minimum, and closer to 8% is better. This can be achieved by air drying the wood, it just takes much longer than kiln dried.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Thank you.
Sir , I’m new at this and I like the video a lot ty . How many strips from each type of wood did you make and I noticed when you glued them, they were not evenly together. Why is that?
I think I said it in the video, but if not, I did two narrow strips and one wider strip from each board. The ends are not even because hardwood lumber rarely comes in the exact same length. It's not sold like construction lumber in standard dimensions. Hope that helps!
I think the thickness planner is absolutely required for making cutting boards. I would say because of it, it's not a project for beginners with minimal tools. I can be convinced that table saws and miter saws are basic tools (although not cheap) because they can be used for other projects around the house, but not the planner.
Yes a planer is very important! Although I think my first cutting board was before I got one. I remember flattening it by hand! I didn’t even have a random orbital sander!
Thank you it was great help thank you again one more question can you use Blood wood.
Yes, bloodwood can be used as well.
Correct me if I’m wrong, shouldn’t you use tight bond three for any surface that’s going to get wet? I’m not a beginner but I’m also not an expert so I’m honestly curious.
You can use Titebond III if you prefer, but it’s not at all necessary. Titebond II is water resistant and offers plenty of protection from the kind of moisture a cutting board would see. I’ve used it for many years and never had an issue. I only use Titebond III on outdoor projects that will be the the weather.
Tight bond ii is water resistant. Tight bond iii is water proof
Thank you for great video how thick is final board? Ty
They are 3/4”.
is that safe for the food contact the wood glue? just new with woodwork thank you so much
Yes, Titebond II is safe for food contact.
@@biscuittreewoodworks thank you so much
Thank you for your video. I have a question about your dust collection that you use on your dewalt planer. Where did you get that adapter for this planer? I have that exact one and I’ve been trying to find it.
Hi Lori, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! As for the planer, there's no adapter used on the planer in the video. I have the factory dust hood on the planer and connected it directly to my Jet dust collector via a 4" flexable hose.
Great video. What price point do you sell your 9x12 boards for?
I’m currently selling them starting at $55 each. I offer rubber feet with stainless steel screws for an additional $5.
I need that T shirt! SF Brother
Semper Fi!
Face grain cutting boards? Do they last as long and side or end grain?
All depends on how you use it. You can't chop or carve large pieces of meat on it like you can with end grain, but they are great for smaller tasks like cutting vegetables, cheeses, fruits.
How do you mix the bees wax and mineral oil?
You have to melt the bees wax to mix them. I use a crockpot.
What was your thickness on those face grain board? Where did you get your drying rack
The cutting boards are 3/4” thick. I have a link to the rack in the video description.
Im surprised you are not using a drum sander for the full surface sanding
Normally I would, but I was trying to keep this project within reach of those without access to a drum sander by showing it's not necessary.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Gotcha.. well thats cool
Minimal tools = a lot of really, really expensive tools
Only if you are trying to start with my exact tools which I've collected over 10+ years. You can get a table saw for a couple hundred bucks, glue and clamps are cheap, a planer is a few hundred but I mention you don't need it if you just sand the boards flat, and you can hand sand instead of getting a sander.
How do you make the “ board butter”???
4:1 ratio of mineral oil and beeswax.
What size strips do you cut?
I change it up depending on the look I want. For these boards I believe I did 1/4” for the thinner strips and 1/2” for the thicker middle strip.
How thick of a board do you recommend if I don’t have a planer?
At least 3/4”, but thicker is better if you can get it.
How thick do you make your boards?
These were 3/4 because that was how thick the raw material was. I wouldn’t go any thinner but thicker would be fine.
What about oak ? Is that any good ?
You can use oak, but it's not one I prefer. Oak is much more porous and will absorb and hold more liquids than wood with tighter grain.
@@biscuittreewoodworks thank you for the reply , what other wood would you suggest? I’m from uk so trying to find anything you were using is quite difficult 😄
@@BE27E I listed several wood species I recommend in the video description. I’m not familiar with what is available in the UK, but you may be able to order online if you can not find in your local area.
What do you mean by "long grain"
When you look at a typical board, the grain lines run from one end to the other. That's the long grain, also referred to as face grain. If you look at the very end of the board, that is the end grain. The cutting boards in this video are long grain or face grain boards. You can also chop up the long grain and rotate the pieces 90 degrees so the end grain is facing up. Then glue all those pieces together, that would be an end grain board.
Thank you@@biscuittreewoodworks
Ti bound # is food safe
Titebond II & III are both approved for direct food contact.
how would you price them?
In general my pricing depends on the cost of materials, how complex the design, and how long it takes to make them. I list these for $55 each. I have an option to add rubber feet for an additional $5.
So if you sell for $55, what is your profit per board and how much time do you think you invest in each board? Thanks
@@larryscaduto If I remember correctly, after I deduct all expenses; materials, supplies, labor, and shipping profit is around $10 per board. When I sell these I offer an option to add rubber feet to the board for $5, this is a very minimal cost for me but is a big profit booster and most people will opt for the upgrade.
why not titebond 3?
It’s not necessary and kind of overkill for this application. Titebond 2 is water resistant which is plenty for cutting boards. I only go to Titebond 3 when the project will be outdoors or exposed to constant moisture like a shower stool. I’ve used Titebond 2 on cutting boards for 12+ years and never had an issue with moisture in a glue joint.
Sorry I meant ti bound 3 here above
Both are safe for direct food contact. Below is the statement directly from the manufacturer.
All of our Titebond wood glues are safe to use and produce no harmful fumes. They meet the requirements of ASTM D4236 for safe use with arts and crafts. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards.
You are just buying them from over seas.
Um, ok sure. 🐢
This guy copied @MWAwoodworks video on making cutting boards almost exactly
I was inspired by his video and a few others, but it is not intended to be an exact copy. There are a few things that I have a differing opinion on that I stated in the video.
I was going to comment the same, because I just watched the other video and it is indeed almost the same. However, I do appreciate the somewhat slower and slightly extended explanations. And it never hurts to see a few iterations of the same project. Thanks.
I don't get it. I've been cooking since 1982 and i have never used a wood cutting board, why would i, anyone that took even a 7th grade science class knows wood soaks up every bug, yes even after you linseed oil it. I don't know what millennial is buying this crap since they can't afford to buy a house and on top of that there's 900 of you on you tube doing videos on cutting boards, i guess its the paper mache of woodworking. I wish you tube would evolve to lets us ban a subject and anyone saying you can make millions making cutting boards, might as well take that India truck warranty.
Well for one, contrary to what you stated, wood is proven to be naturally antimicrobial. Scientists at the University of Wisconsin have found that 99.9% of bacteria placed on a wooden cutting board begin to die completely within minutes. Professional chefs have been using them for generations. Plastic cutting boards on the other hand have been proven to harbor bacteria and should be avoided.
Second, if you are so set against wood cutting boards and believe there are way too many YT videos on them, why did you click on this video?