You're welcome. My OCD level is exponentially rising when I started doing these restorations... Especially when I'm putting the end result in close-up in the end of my videos. Glad you like it! Thanks for the sub!
Another excellent restoration. I've always liked this casting as the front of the Foden is so detailed. I like the tip about the fibre tip pen to help in prepping before painting...I'll try that myself.
Thanks! Make sure to rinse off the small parts that come off the fibre pen before applying paint/primer. Otherwise you'll have a lot of small fibres that will show up. Don't ask me how I know this 😄
Wow, I never thought that I would never see one of these things ever again. I remember picking one of these out at a local toy store an hour or so before I was admitted to the hospital for an illness that almost killed me at the age of three. I remember having this truck until I was about 10 or 11 and one day when I was looking for it it was gone. I suspect my father tossed it into the trash with all my other toys when he decided that I wasn't cleaning my room good enough. So, he sent me to my grandmother's for a few days and when I came home nearly all of my toys, model airplanes, Matchbox, and Hot Wheels cars were gone. It wasn't until he and my mother hit some antique shops on a vacation that they saw how much those diecast cars were worth, even in bad shape. When they asked if I still had them I was not happy when I asked them if they had forgotten about tossing those things in the trash when I was a kid? To this day I'm still looking for and purchasing replacements for all the things they tossed out. So happy to see this is still out there and I just have to look harder. What kills me is that he also tossed out Matchbox cars that were only released in Japan and Hong Kong as well as Taiwan during the Vietnam war where the old man had picked them up. Those are the ones that are hard to find.
Wow....tough love?...damn.... Started buying Hw/Mb for my little guy when he was born in '92. Two of each...played with one..the others in storage and untouched.
Matchbox Restoration A small point here. The Foden branding at the front of the truck is not all chrome within the kite-shape, the chrome is only on its outline and the Foden name in the middle, the rest is the same colour as the vehicle.
Seele2015au I did the trim details just like it was originally, no? If you look at the “before” part, it’s exactly painted as it was. Or am I missing something here?
@@MatchboxRestoration During production of the model it was easier to paint the whole thing solid chrome, but for real Foden trucks, the front is as I described; it's worth checking Google image etc. But here's the point: how far should a restoration go? If a model was made - obviously with cost considerations - where some details are different from the real item, should it be restored to the point where the designer would have wanted it to be, but the manufacturing team could not deliver? Now that's the dilemma faced by restorers of pretty much everything.
@@MatchboxRestoration I am glad you have restored the model to your satisfaction. When I do my own restorations - no Matchbox cars yet - I tend to put myself in the mindset of the original designer and visualize how he would have wanted it in the first place. For example, I have a few watches designed to be as thin as possible, but at the time, the crystals (AKA watch glasses) available to the manufacturer were all quite high in profile, so they were used. Now, as compatible low-profile modern crystals are available, they are substituted. Not original of course, but I would say it is much closer to the designer's original vision.
A couple ways to fix the crack on the barrel: the old superglue and baking soda method or you can plastic weld it by using a soldering gun and a clear zip tie (the zip tie is your solder for the process), a model body filler, JB Weld two part epoxy, all choices to try, wet sand the repair with 600-3000 sand paper, prime and paint. Hope this helps.
Great restoration, very good brush skills too. Some ideas: Dip the car into the paint remover instead of putting paint remover on the car. That way it can get everywhere and seep under the layers as they get loosened meaning less work for you. For removing oxidation try using an electropolish setup like baremetalhw explains. Before painting use a degreaser to clean the car and don't touch it after. Sanding the car between paints will reduce the orange peel effect.
Thanks for the kind words! I dipped the model in my first two restorations without too much benefit in paint stripping. I'll look into the other advice you gave. Thanks for taking the time to write this up! :)
You know you're killin' us with your hammer, right?..lol. So you don't have a drill press yet...don't want to do the nail set and hammer combo...How 'bout chucking up a finish nail like Marty, just on your dremel and round the hubs over freehand? Can you get the drill press attachment for your dremel? Again, great paint! Need a cat cameo!
Haha, sorry about the hammer. It looks worse than it is. If I would have chipped the paint once, I would never try it again. I'm looking into buying a drill press soon, so I'll fix that method soon :) I was told that a drill press attachment is never going to give me enough pressure to make it work. So I'm looking to buy the right tools soon. Thanks for your feedback! :)
@@AndyX He got it...sorry you didn't. Then again, it wasn't directed at you... Sorry it wadded up your panties...go back and paint something..it'll be ok.
Niiiice job! (I'm becoming "restoholic" because of you fellas 😊) May I sugest you to use a 1mm or less drill bit? This way the risk of beeaking the car is smaller; You can find cheap ones on e-bay, and the screws too 😉 Happy holidays!
Thanks! 1mm drill bits tend to break even faster than the 1.5mm I'm using. I don't know if I can tap 2mm thread in a 1mm hole. Thanks for the advice, though!
@@MatchboxRestoration Definitively, but bits of WD-40 while you are drilling (after you made the hole that will guide the drill) and pressing not very much could help with that issue. Happy holidays 😊
Amazing job . Yer got some balls hammering those axel ends I must say . You do however prove it can be done . Ps . I use the same airbrush and mini compressor with my restorations . Started to master it now . Again . Well done mate 😊
Haha, thanks :) It looks scarier than it is. Never chipped any paint this way, but I'll look into other methods soon. The airbrush kit is nice for the money. I really enjoy it and does the job well. Thanks for the kind words!
I have been reading up on air brushes (I plan to purchase one in the very near future) and from what I have read if you thin your paint to about the consistency of milk it will flow through the brush better. This may or not be true, but I thought I would pass it on anyway. One thing I have learned from practical experience is to mask areas I don't want paint, for very small areas pin striping tape works great, that way if my hand is a little shaky while trying to steady it I still get nice straight lines. They used to sell a liquid mask that I used years ago, but I am not sure if it is still available. Unfortunately if you are painting over already painted areas you need to let the paint cure. I usually will wait at least a day before masking a painted area, I know some people just wait a few hours. It really depends on the type of paint you are using.
Thanks for your feedback. I always make the paint thin enough (milklike as you say) so it flows nicely through the gun. Primer -> paint -> clear coat, each a day apart to avoid problems. I haven't masked any models yet, but I might need to do that in one of the next restorations. Thanks again! :)
Awesome job the grill work turned out very nice. For your axles what about a finishing nail in a hand drill? Just a thought until you purchase a drill press.
Thanks for the advice, but do you mean that my pressure is too low, or too high? After I searched for "orange peel" online, most people said it was a matter of keeping the pressure low and spray closer to the model. Is that right?
Hey mate, check out Marty's Matchbox Makeovers for some ideas, if you need any. He restores Matchbox cars too. I really like his work. He has a brilliant way of attaching the wheels, too. Subbed.
Nice job, thanks for the tip about fiberglass pen. Just a thought, would a modified nail set help with the axles? Grinding the tip flat or even slightly concave may make deforming the end with a hammer easier.
I looked for a replacement, but could only find one for the 26a model, which is smaller than this one. 3D printing might have been an option, but I was worried the lines of the layers would ruin the look of it. I might have to look into some modelling putty together with some fine 3D prints and my airbrush skills. Thanks for the advice! :)
@@MatchboxRestoration "3D printing might have been an option, but I was worried the lines of the layers would ruin the look of it." It depends how fine is the resolution of the 3D printing, and then, once the detail is out, it is sanded, etc. Marty uses 3D printer to make details he cannot find.
Thanks, Steve. This is a brandless kit I bought online. It resembles the Fendga airbrush guns. The compressor is really low budget and just gives enough pressure to apply light coats. But it works for me so far :)
Thank you! I'm using Tamiya X-22 Clear Acrylic Paint, together with everything else Tamiya. I read somewhere that the golden rule is to stick with one brand, so you don't run into any trouble :)
Good question, never really thought about that. The primer is obviously for better paint adhesion and filling the small imperfections of the model. But you do have a point there. :)
Having stripped hundreds of real cars, best results occur when you stroke a heavily loaded brush with one pass in one direction, no dobbing. Chemical strippers have paraffin added to 'skin' over and seal the vapors 'in' where they can do the best work. Swirling or dobbing destroys this film, allowing the caustic vapors to evaporate and reduce effectivity. Carry on :)
Regarding the barrel, would it not be a bad idea to fix the cracks with super glue and plastic filler and paint it the same colour as the rest of the truck?
You probably could have fixed the crack in the barrel with some MEK (methyl-ethylketon) apply with a brush on the inside and let capillary action fill the crack. You should be able to buy MEK at a modelbuilding shop
Marshall Van Wagner III it’s a pen-like device with a cartridge made of fine fibreglass strands. You advance the ‘nib’ and use it to sweep over the surface. It has fine abrasive qualities. Good for getting into nooks and crannies where steel wool or carborundum paper doesn’t go.
They are very useful but make sure you wear rubber gloves when using it cause the splinters of fiberglass will stick in your fingers and are almost impossible to see when trying to remove them
Hey you fella, it's me again, this time for a question: what do you use as an pressured air source, is it an acuarium air pump? ( You would solve part of my life if you are kind enough to answer 🤗☺... well, once you'll be recovered from the party 😂😆👄💘💥💤🍡🍸🍻🍷🍾🍽
It’s a small airbrush kit: banggood.app.link/mPQ47OHP6S I have to say I just ordered another compressor since it does not give me enough air pressure to get the finish I want. Best wishes 😉🥂
Watching you, baremetalhw, and Marty has inspired me to look into trying to restore my old model cars! Thank you
Thanks for mentioning me between my own inspirations 😁 Looking forward to see your work!
Very nice restoration, beautiful color match......
Thanks, Char! :)
You clearcoating the models after painting them satisfies my OCD streak. Subscribed!
You're welcome. My OCD level is exponentially rising when I started doing these restorations... Especially when I'm putting the end result in close-up in the end of my videos. Glad you like it! Thanks for the sub!
This turned out really great!!!
Thank you, Bill!
Awesome job and color is spot on! Great job
Thanks, Timothy!
Another excellent restoration. I've always liked this casting as the front of the Foden is so detailed. I like the tip about the fibre tip pen to help in prepping before painting...I'll try that myself.
Thanks! Make sure to rinse off the small parts that come off the fibre pen before applying paint/primer. Otherwise you'll have a lot of small fibres that will show up. Don't ask me how I know this 😄
@@MatchboxRestoration Thanks...I'll keep that in mind.
Wow, I never thought that I would never see one of these things ever again. I remember picking one of these out at a local toy store an hour or so before I was admitted to the hospital for an illness that almost killed me at the age of three. I remember having this truck until I was about 10 or 11 and one day when I was looking for it it was gone. I suspect my father tossed it into the trash with all my other toys when he decided that I wasn't cleaning my room good enough. So, he sent me to my grandmother's for a few days and when I came home nearly all of my toys, model airplanes, Matchbox, and Hot Wheels cars were gone. It wasn't until he and my mother hit some antique shops on a vacation that they saw how much those diecast cars were worth, even in bad shape. When they asked if I still had them I was not happy when I asked them if they had forgotten about tossing those things in the trash when I was a kid? To this day I'm still looking for and purchasing replacements for all the things they tossed out. So happy to see this is still out there and I just have to look harder. What kills me is that he also tossed out Matchbox cars that were only released in Japan and Hong Kong as well as Taiwan during the Vietnam war where the old man had picked them up. Those are the ones that are hard to find.
Wow, what a story. Too bad you lost most of your collection. Hopefully you'll find what you're looking for. Good luck!
Wow....tough love?...damn....
Started buying Hw/Mb for my little guy when he was born in '92. Two of each...played with one..the others in storage and untouched.
Kool 1 mate! A great restoration effort & I'm glad to see your big orange lorry in working order again mate! 👍🚚😁👍
Thanks Spaceman! Glad you like it!
Thank you for reducing the music volume much much better... nice makeover!
Thanks, Kenny! No problem! :)
I love the color match and the trim looks great! I still won't hammer my axles! Looks great!
Time Rider: 😉
🔨 HAMMERTIME! :D Thanks for the kind words, guys!
Matchbox Restoration A small point here. The Foden branding at the front of the truck is not all chrome within the kite-shape, the chrome is only on its outline and the Foden name in the middle, the rest is the same colour as the vehicle.
Seele2015au I did the trim details just like it was originally, no? If you look at the “before” part, it’s exactly painted as it was. Or am I missing something here?
@@MatchboxRestoration During production of the model it was easier to paint the whole thing solid chrome, but for real Foden trucks, the front is as I described; it's worth checking Google image etc.
But here's the point: how far should a restoration go? If a model was made - obviously with cost considerations - where some details are different from the real item, should it be restored to the point where the designer would have wanted it to be, but the manufacturing team could not deliver? Now that's the dilemma faced by restorers of pretty much everything.
Ok, I see what you mean. I always go for the finish like the model came in. But I appreciate the feedback! Thank you!
@@MatchboxRestoration I am glad you have restored the model to your satisfaction. When I do my own restorations - no Matchbox cars yet - I tend to put myself in the mindset of the original designer and visualize how he would have wanted it in the first place. For example, I have a few watches designed to be as thin as possible, but at the time, the crystals (AKA watch glasses) available to the manufacturer were all quite high in profile, so they were used. Now, as compatible low-profile modern crystals are available, they are substituted. Not original of course, but I would say it is much closer to the designer's original vision.
Very nice job on #4, the Cement Mixer !
Thanks, Scott!
A couple ways to fix the crack on the barrel: the old superglue and baking soda method or you can plastic weld it by using a soldering gun and a clear zip tie (the zip tie is your solder for the process), a model body filler, JB Weld two part epoxy, all choices to try, wet sand the repair with 600-3000 sand paper, prime and paint. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the great advice! I'll look into this.
Great result! Another fine restoration! Thank you!
Thanks man! More coming up ;)
Amazing restoration turned out Perfect well done 👍.
Nice job - looks like new. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Paul! You're welcome ;-)
Excellent job! That really came out great!
Thanks!
Brilliant restoration,well done.
Thanks, Steven! Glad you like it!
Beautiful job! Really nice work on the trim.
Thanks for sharing dude.
Thanks, Pete! The trim wasn't easy, but I'm happy with it. Glad you like it too. :)
Wonderful restoration!
Thanks!
Beautifully done my good man. Another nice model saved. Cheer's John
Thanks, John! :)
Your details in front are very well done. Very good !
Thanks, Peter! Glad you like it. It took quick some fiddling around, but I'm quite happy with it.
Great result. Nice detail work. Enjoyed your video thanks.
Excellent restoration, thank you, as always stay safe, from South Africa 🇿🇦
Thanks, Val!
Great result mate
Thanks! Nice to hear you like it!
Excellent job thanks for the video 👍🇬🇧
More coming up soon!
That's a great restoration 👍
Thanks, Jerry!
So beautiful. Great job!!!
Great restoration, very good brush skills too.
Some ideas:
Dip the car into the paint remover instead of putting paint remover on the car. That way it can get everywhere and seep under the layers as they get loosened meaning less work for you.
For removing oxidation try using an electropolish setup like baremetalhw explains.
Before painting use a degreaser to clean the car and don't touch it after.
Sanding the car between paints will reduce the orange peel effect.
Thanks for the kind words! I dipped the model in my first two restorations without too much benefit in paint stripping. I'll look into the other advice you gave. Thanks for taking the time to write this up! :)
Very nicely done restoration
Thanks, Darrin! Glad you like it!
You know you're killin' us with your hammer, right?..lol. So you don't have a drill press yet...don't want to do the nail set and hammer combo...How 'bout chucking up a finish nail like Marty, just on your dremel and round the hubs over freehand? Can you get the drill press attachment for your dremel? Again, great paint! Need a cat cameo!
Haha, sorry about the hammer. It looks worse than it is. If I would have chipped the paint once, I would never try it again. I'm looking into buying a drill press soon, so I'll fix that method soon :) I was told that a drill press attachment is never going to give me enough pressure to make it work. So I'm looking to buy the right tools soon. Thanks for your feedback! :)
@@MatchboxRestoration ignore this person .,.he probably has not done a restoration before .. your doing just fine ..keep up the good work
@@AndyX He got it...sorry you didn't. Then again, it wasn't directed at you... Sorry it wadded up your panties...go back and paint something..it'll be ok.
Niiiice job! (I'm becoming "restoholic" because of you fellas 😊)
May I sugest you to use a 1mm or less drill bit? This way the risk of beeaking the car is smaller; You can find cheap ones on e-bay, and the screws too 😉 Happy holidays!
Thanks! 1mm drill bits tend to break even faster than the 1.5mm I'm using. I don't know if I can tap 2mm thread in a 1mm hole. Thanks for the advice, though!
@@MatchboxRestoration Definitively, but bits of WD-40 while you are drilling (after you made the hole that will guide the drill) and pressing not very much could help with that issue.
Happy holidays 😊
I have one of those glass fibre pens. They come in very handy
Yes, they are nice to have around. A bit to abbrasive for some parts, but it does the job.
Amazing job . Yer got some balls hammering those axel ends I must say . You do however prove it can be done . Ps . I use the same airbrush and mini compressor with my restorations . Started to master it now . Again . Well done mate 😊
Haha, thanks :) It looks scarier than it is. Never chipped any paint this way, but I'll look into other methods soon. The airbrush kit is nice for the money. I really enjoy it and does the job well. Thanks for the kind words!
Beautiful work!
I have been reading up on air brushes (I plan to purchase one in the very near future) and from what I have read if you thin your paint to about the consistency of milk it will flow through the brush better. This may or not be true, but I thought I would pass it on anyway. One thing I have learned from practical experience is to mask areas I don't want paint, for very small areas pin striping tape works great, that way if my hand is a little shaky while trying to steady it I still get nice straight lines. They used to sell a liquid mask that I used years ago, but I am not sure if it is still available. Unfortunately if you are painting over already painted areas you need to let the paint cure. I usually will wait at least a day before masking a painted area, I know some people just wait a few hours. It really depends on the type of paint you are using.
Thanks for your feedback. I always make the paint thin enough (milklike as you say) so it flows nicely through the gun. Primer -> paint -> clear coat, each a day apart to avoid problems. I haven't masked any models yet, but I might need to do that in one of the next restorations. Thanks again! :)
Awesome job the grill work turned out very nice. For your axles what about a finishing nail in a hand drill? Just a thought until you purchase a drill press.
Thanks Jeff! Glad you like it! I used my new drill press in my latest video 😉👍
Brass brush will clean remaining paint without causing any damage
Thanks! I bought one a couple days ago. You'll see me using it in a future restoration ;-)
Hi, You got to low air pressure on airbrush, and then on finnish model You got orange pill. But it's nice to see Your's work, keep going ;)
Thanks for the advice, but do you mean that my pressure is too low, or too high? After I searched for "orange peel" online, most people said it was a matter of keeping the pressure low and spray closer to the model. Is that right?
Just found your channel, very nice job, look forward to seeing more of the same, Happy New Year!
Excellent job!
Thanks ;)
Excellent job!!!.......
Thanks Karl!
Looks great thank you for the video:-)
Thanks, Steve!
Hey mate, check out Marty's Matchbox Makeovers for some ideas, if you need any. He restores Matchbox cars too. I really like his work. He has a brilliant way of attaching the wheels, too. Subbed.
Nice job, thanks for the tip about fiberglass pen. Just a thought, would a modified nail set help with the axles? Grinding the tip flat or even slightly concave may make deforming the end with a hammer easier.
Thanks, Stephen! I'm looking into other methods for the axles. I know about the modified nail set that Marty also uses. Thanks for the advice! :)
great work
Thanks, Ben!
great job thanks for sharing
Good stuff.. keep it up guy.
Thanks, Brian! I will :)
Great job!
Thanks, Jason!
Nice job 👍👍👍
Thanks Hary!
Excellent.
Thanks, Martin!
Great Job 👍👍👍😁
I have this casting without the barrel. Hopefully I can find a replacement
I haven't found the barrels as spare parts so far. Your best bet might be to find a second one.
it came out nice
Thank you!
@@MatchboxRestoration your welcome
Nice job !
Excelente !!!
Merci! :)
Excelente
Merci, Anthony!
I have been watching a lot of matchbox restores and when you use the dremmel try putting a washer in front of the tire to protect it .
Good advice, thanks, Jeff! I'll try this in a future restoration.
At 6:03, if the barrel crack disturbs you, just buy a replacement one, or replica, or make one on 3D printer. I know, restoration work is expensive.
I looked for a replacement, but could only find one for the 26a model, which is smaller than this one. 3D printing might have been an option, but I was worried the lines of the layers would ruin the look of it. I might have to look into some modelling putty together with some fine 3D prints and my airbrush skills. Thanks for the advice! :)
@@MatchboxRestoration
"3D printing might have been an option, but I was worried the lines of the layers would ruin the look of it."
It depends how fine is the resolution of the 3D printing, and then, once the detail is out, it is sanded, etc.
Marty uses 3D printer to make details he cannot find.
@@MrRoboticsTeacher I'll give it a go if another model needs this. I can go down to 0.08mm per layer on my printer.
Great job! Can I ask what air brush kit you use? You seem to be getting fantastic results with it.
Thanks, Steve. This is a brandless kit I bought online. It resembles the Fendga airbrush guns. The compressor is really low budget and just gives enough pressure to apply light coats. But it works for me so far :)
Mooie restauratie
Dank je, Bram!
Très belle restauration! Mais, de grâce, fais attention à tes doigts quand tu drille un si petit rivet! Un accident est si vite arrivé!
Merci beaucoup! Oui, tu as raison, je dois faire attention à mes doigts. :)
Great resto, editing, and narration. Your patreon link is broken.
It’s fixed now. Thanks for the kind words!
good job!! : )
Thanks, Walt!
Great job , what type of clear coat are you using .
Thank you! I'm using Tamiya X-22 Clear Acrylic Paint, together with everything else Tamiya. I read somewhere that the golden rule is to stick with one brand, so you don't run into any trouble :)
why do you spray the truck with primer ...when the original model does not have primer ?
Good question, never really thought about that. The primer is obviously for better paint adhesion and filling the small imperfections of the model. But you do have a point there. :)
@@MatchboxRestoration thanks .. yeh if you use a quality paint .i imagine using primer is not necessary
Having stripped hundreds of real cars, best results occur when you stroke a heavily loaded brush with one pass in one direction, no dobbing. Chemical strippers have paraffin added to 'skin' over and seal the vapors 'in' where they can do the best work. Swirling or dobbing destroys this film, allowing the caustic vapors to evaporate and reduce effectivity. Carry on :)
Good advice, I'll try this on a future restoration!
Regarding the barrel, would it not be a bad idea to fix the cracks with super glue and plastic filler and paint it the same colour as the rest of the truck?
use tamiya thin glue for small cracks.
Thanks for the advice! I'll look into it! :)
I’m looking at getting an airbrush to try doing some of these restorations. Which do you recommend?
You probably could have fixed the crack in the barrel with some MEK (methyl-ethylketon) apply with a brush on the inside and let capillary action fill the crack. You should be able to buy MEK at a modelbuilding shop
Mooi werk!! Klein vraagje, wat zijn de afmetingen van de schroefjes die je gebruikt om het model terug samen te schroeven??
Het zijn M2 schroeven, 5mm lang, verzonken kop (via HobbyKing)
use super glue from the inside of the barrel
That would secure the barrel from breaking even more, but any ideas on the outside?
i have the same model but with gray wheels.
I guess mine is an early model
Cool! I'm always surprised about how many variations there are.
If you want to use the hammer method, perhaps a small ball peen hammer using the ball end.
Yes, I read about that somewhere. I now have a drill press, so that issue is solved 😇
I'm fixing that Barrel about the only thing you can do is put J-B Weld over the crack on the inside then touch it with a brush
What is the spraygun called that you are using?
Iv got some cars you would like mate
Oh, let me know which ones 😇
What is a fiberglass pen?
Marshall Van Wagner III it’s a pen-like device with a cartridge made of fine fibreglass strands. You advance the ‘nib’ and use it to sweep over the surface. It has fine abrasive qualities. Good for getting into nooks and crannies where steel wool or carborundum paper doesn’t go.
find them on ebay
Thanks for putting up the links, guys!
Thank you! Mine will arrive Monday! I think it will prove itself to be useful!
They are very useful but make sure you wear rubber gloves when using it cause the splinters of fiberglass will stick in your fingers and are almost impossible to see when trying to remove them
Hey you fella, it's me again, this time for a question: what do you use as an pressured air source, is it an acuarium air pump? ( You would solve part of my life if you are kind enough to answer 🤗☺... well, once you'll be recovered from the party 😂😆👄💘💥💤🍡🍸🍻🍷🍾🍽
It’s a small airbrush kit: banggood.app.link/mPQ47OHP6S I have to say I just ordered another compressor since it does not give me enough air pressure to get the finish I want. Best wishes 😉🥂