Great demo....and thanks for putting no commentary or music in the background. The hum and noises of you putting everything together is the best soundtrack.
Had one of those at our family home when I was a kid, was rebuilt multiple times over the years to breathe new life into it and give it a good clean. Seeing a cross section of it in action is truly taking me back
I was having thoughts about how cleaning the chimney soot could be a problem but it would sure cut down on so much of the wasted heat from a straight up chimney .
@peterjol Generally speaking, masonry stoves like this are designed to burn wood really efficiently, in a short period of time, rather than over time like a cast-iron stove. This results in dramatically less build-up inside the chimney, so cleaning is less of a problem!
@@peterjol you didn't notice the sooot trap clean out! or you don't like the idea of having to pull the soot into the house!? ash vacume? you could even reverse the flow so that the cleanout is out side!
Agree, I'm not sure I would consider this a "How it works" demonstration. It's simply a cutaway demonstration. Very useful for explaining, but the video is lacking that key "Explanation part". I do appreciate the demonstration tho. Great work.
In a normal stove with straight chimney, cold air from the chimney will freeze the stove almost immediately when the fire is done burning. With this stove, cold air is blocked by the syphon, which is filled with hot smoke. The stove stays warm much longer.
The swedes use a 5-channel design. The finns as well though in later years they modernized the masonry heater with a free standing core that was not physically connected to the walls. This had many advantages and prevented stress from thermal movement. They also got rid of the traditional tiles and used metal exteriors, thin sheet metal, even copper. This was far superior to tile and the whole heater can be fired to higher temperatures than the traditional tile based ones who would crack and leak if burned too hard. Finnish designs from the 1940s also incorporated secondary air.
@@JDeWittDIY Here you can see a drawing i.imgur.com/xmGIRIm.jpg And here you can see a small one being built eevuli.blogspot.com/2015/05/ponttouunin-muuraus.html Googling the word Pönttöuuni should yield more results
@@1873Winchester Looks efficient! Btw, LLP=5.5m2 means heat exchange surface area. I have similar fireplace still in use from 1928, although it does not have the secondary air channel.
@@1873Winchester Thankyou for sharing links very interesting, loved looking at the design. especially the fresh air port leading directly up in the fire chamber. I didn't see the couple implementing that feature which I imagine would be hard to do in the version they built. But I would like to encourage people to emulate as it makes the fire hotter. I think that's way it is in the plan, but I could be wrong, lol. Nice vid Grain, loved the little bricks. It would be great to see a full working miniature fire place plus infrared video.
Cleaning of the Russian stoves is done only occasionally, by removing two strategically placed bricks in the structure. Chimneys and stoves are often painted white to make it easy to spot any dangerous leakage.
Wow this is the most straight forward direct visual explanation of the basics of that type of woodstove/heater. I've been wanting to build my own new replacement for the old crappy 1970s funnel fireplace my dad built in when I was a kid, its terribly inefficient. Its cool looking but wastes so much heat. I've just really been interested in these when I had them featured in a magazine I was getting back several years ago.
Great demo, I’ve built a few fireplaces in my time and I can see how this would reduce down draft problems, particularly with a short stack. I’m assuming once the bricks heated up, the draft would be very strong and the thermal mass would continue to radiate heat.
thats why this isnt actually the best demonstration - he didnt preheat the stack using the top gate. Thats pretty important where extreme temps happen, the smoke wont even push out of the stack if the temp was below zero celsius, not without smoking out the cabin.
How to increase the combustion chamber temperature for the cleanest most efficient burn? Take the heat out of the system outside the combustion area, that is, in the exhaust pathway. Best to insulate the combustion chamber, and perhaps it’ll even require pre-gasification of the fuel. Aim for blue flame in a small combustion chamber and a long heat removal path to combine good burn with good heat extraction. Key is not sucking the heat away from the combustion chamber walls. This is a great few steps in the right direction. Congratulations and thank you.
@@skakpedersen That is why old fireplaces normally had a compartment for storing a bit of wood right alongside them: you'd fire the place and then get wood for the next burn which would be nice and dry before it is needed.
I used a similar type of stove in Russia. There were two dampers, both open to start the fire. Once it was going and the chimney was warm, the lower one was closed. When all the wood was burned (usually in less than an hour) we closed all inlets and the chimney damper. Then the whole structure heated up and kept the house warm for about 12 hours. I would like to have seen an explanation of how that worked.
Great job. Such an innovative idea to illustrate how masonry wood heater work without words. I wonder where a good place could be to drill a bunch of holes to combust the smoke.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, otherwise it cools the gasses below their flash point. I have a woodburning furnace that runs the incoming air through metal tubes in the firebox before releasing it through many tiny holes in tubes across the top of the firebox. When burning, they look just like the jets in a gas furnace. So to answer your question, an additional layer of brick could be stacked to form an envelope around the firebox, with narrow gaps along the top of the firebox. These channels would be closed when the firebox is first lit, to prevent downdrafting smoke away from the chimney, then opened once a good draw and flame is established.
Very COoL (or hot depending:) Back in the 60's they use to fear the 'draft'. But it look pretty sweet to me. I love that you even have a tiny tool too - oh, my bad Cheers from So.CA.USA 2nd House On the Left.
Imagine burying those smoke routes horizontally under the floor of the house. That's ondol, a Korean traditional heating system. We cannot enjoy fire indoor but the house is nice and warm even from your feet. I can imagine your demonstration would be good too.
I don't need it but I'm so gonna make it this summer. It's been years since UA-cam suggested something so fun and informative that made me wanna do it myself. You got yourself a sub.
At first I wasn't sure just what this demo was, I thought it was some full scale thing. With a bit of a secondary air inlet, this could be an excellent demo of that design.
@@TotoMacFrame I guess I don't have a good intuition for condensation. I thought the cold glass would have to be colder than room temperature. Or otherwise, the hot air to have more water than the cold air. Do normal brick chimneys or fireplaces ever get condensation, while the brick is cold?
@@donperegrine922 Rule of thumb is: the warmer the air, the more moisture it can carry. When warm and humid air gets cooled, it cannot hold on to the humidity and the water "falls out" the air, resulting in fogged up windows in the winter, or in fogged up windows in the car when you breathe much in winter before the heating works fully. The air basically gets rid of all the water it cannot carry any longer when it cools down, e.g. by touching a cold surface. This surface basically only has to be cooler than the air to let this happen. Cooking pot with glas lid? Lid gets condensated, since the hot air from the pot cools down on the cooler lid. Those droplets are still freaking hot though. If this happens in a normal chimney is beyond my knowledge, but everything I know points towards "It should".
Would it make sense to pass air through the flames and into the duct to try and burn the smoke? I know paper produce alot o smoke so it might not be possible with regular fuel, but it would be cool! (Or rather, lit 😎)
Great little model. So what is the advantage of the s channel in the ducting? Why not just go straight up? Does that capture more heat in the house with this style?
The bricks absorb the heat from the smoke. It becomes a thermal mass which will radiate the heat even after the fire goes out. The long path allows better heat absorption than a straight shot. Check out thermal mass rocket stoves. There is no smoke one the stove gets going, and no heat is wasted out the chimney.
Buena demostración. Ahora en verano se podrá asar unas sardinas en ese invento jajajaja...saludos amigo. Хорошая демонстрация. Теперь летом в этом изобретении можно поджарить сардины, хахахаха ... привет друг.
I expected that the small upperclean out door was actually used to Start the airflow and proper draft as you then beging the fire below... Nice job! Would like to see other designs, like down exhaust to a bed/stratification Chamber... and then exit smoke from the floor...!?
This is really cool, Grain would please add a air pipe with port holes and a vavle to the bottom of the second bend, once its hot you should beable to achieve some secondary burning of the flue gas.
look at the pot style waste oil burner videos , they have a air pipe and blue flames come off the fresh air jets. i think with some restriction on the opening , the draft should pull air in the sujested air pipe
Pozri sa najprv ako funguje krb. Ako sa napája komín. Chýba ti komora kde sa otáča studený vzduch prichádzajúci zhora aby sa otočil, potrebuje priestor dole. Na otočený vzduch sa vyšie napojí samotné ohnisko. Tento istý princíp je aj pri napájaní rúry na komín. Komín musí byť dlhší smerom dole aby napájanie bolo vyšie ako dno komína. Vietor, studený vzduch sa tak môže otočiť a ísť naspäť smerom hore. Tým sa zabezpečí ťah, nebude unikať dym do miestnosti.
How do you clean the internal chimney? Watching the soot build up just in that small demo makes me wonder how you prevent chimney fires in a full sized one.
You use a brush like a normal chimney. The back one you clean upwards from the burn chamber, then the cleanout door above the burn chamber for the horizontal section, and from the top of the chimney for the tall section.
I am completely lost as to what point this video is trying to make about this furnace design. Is the point of this design to capture more of the heat from the fire for heating the building, or is it more about controlling smoke? How would this funace be positioned in the home? (Answered by possibly including some existing or historical examples of this furnace in the real world.) What are the limits on the length of the center "downward" channel? I assume that it does not work if it is either too short or too long. Adding some thermal imagery might also have been helpful, along with a side by side comparison to a straight chimney furnace, or whatever the cimpeting design was. I totaly understand the artistic design of the video itself. I would be totally happy to read the explanation in the video description or a pinned comment.
I apologize for not reading everyone's questions and answers but aside from that my question is how do you clean the creosote out of the cavities or is the temperature so hot that there is no creosote buildup?
I now get how to make one. How does it work though? Well, heat rises, so I get that much. But I guess I'm not following what the benefit is to the S bend. How does that works better than going straight up like a normal chimney? I know more about it now but also am somehow more confused at the same time...lol.
Thank you for this. You have no idea how very helpful this was for me. I look forward to building something like this in my future home before the Grand Solar Minimum really gets going.
Seems that the flame going up the back flue would increase risk of chimney fires. I also am curious how one would clean out debris including ash and soon at the bottom of the chimney.
How has no one noticed that this man is a giant?
jajajaja good one!
A giant man made a micro oven 😅
Don't you mean HOUS (Human Of Unusual Size)?
No no, you have it all wrong. The brick oven is just far away.
@@grain8314 giant man made a human sized oven
Great demo....and thanks for putting no commentary or music in the background. The hum and noises of you putting everything together is the best soundtrack.
Well said!
Some commentary could be nice, but yes
@@goury yeah I agree, the title mentions "How a three-channel heating brick oven works" but adds no commentary on what effect these 3 channels have
I loved it until I heard the eerie ghost screams of the damned in that smoke zoom 😅
Had one of those at our family home when I was a kid, was rebuilt multiple times over the years to breathe new life into it and give it a good clean. Seeing a cross section of it in action is truly taking me back
I was having thoughts about how cleaning the chimney soot could be a problem but it would sure cut down on so much of the wasted heat from a straight up chimney .
@peterjol Generally speaking, masonry stoves like this are designed to burn wood really efficiently, in a short period of time, rather than over time like a cast-iron stove. This results in dramatically less build-up inside the chimney, so cleaning is less of a problem!
@@peterjol you didn't notice the sooot trap clean out! or you don't like the idea of having to pull the soot into the house!? ash vacume? you could even reverse the flow so that the cleanout is out side!
The most polite and civilized comment section i've ever seen.
Stay awesome
Challenge accepted!
;-)
I say, Sir! It is quite refreshing! *1876 grumble* Quite.
My girl is usually pretty chill and civilized when she smokes too 😅
Santa Claus didn't like this model.😂
Very good demonstration, but it would be nice to have additional explanations, perhaps as subtitles.
Agree, I'm not sure I would consider this a "How it works" demonstration. It's simply a cutaway demonstration. Very useful for explaining, but the video is lacking that key "Explanation part". I do appreciate the demonstration tho. Great work.
@@FailedFace Yeah, I don’t understand the benefits of this over a straight chimney
@@pigcatapult with no other explanation I would guess that this is used so the bricks in the chimney collects more heat to radiate into the home.
I actually thought this was a pizza over the whole time
In a normal stove with straight chimney, cold air from the chimney will freeze the stove almost immediately when the fire is done burning. With this stove, cold air is blocked by the syphon, which is filled with hot smoke. The stove stays warm much longer.
How cute are those tiny bricks!
Yeah and he only charges £500 a day and only takes about 2 years to build your house
Not cute enough, I saw cutier
And not a single peace of theory....🤷? How that could be good for anyone?
Nah he just big
Good Demonstration and No Music.Thanks.
The swedes use a 5-channel design. The finns as well though in later years they modernized the masonry heater with a free standing core that was not physically connected to the walls. This had many advantages and prevented stress from thermal movement. They also got rid of the traditional tiles and used metal exteriors, thin sheet metal, even copper. This was far superior to tile and the whole heater can be fired to higher temperatures than the traditional tile based ones who would crack and leak if burned too hard. Finnish designs from the 1940s also incorporated secondary air.
Do you have an example of an improved Finnish design?
@@JDeWittDIY Here you can see a drawing i.imgur.com/xmGIRIm.jpg
And here you can see a small one being built eevuli.blogspot.com/2015/05/ponttouunin-muuraus.html
Googling the word Pönttöuuni should yield more results
I'm going to look into this more. Thank you. this is very interesting to me.
@@1873Winchester Looks efficient! Btw, LLP=5.5m2 means heat exchange surface area. I have similar fireplace still in use from 1928, although it does not have the secondary air channel.
@@1873Winchester Thankyou for sharing links very interesting, loved looking at the design. especially the fresh air port leading directly up in the fire chamber. I didn't see the couple implementing that feature which I imagine would be hard to do in the version they built. But I would like to encourage people to emulate as it makes the fire hotter. I think that's way it is in the plan, but I could be wrong, lol. Nice vid Grain, loved the little bricks. It would be great to see a full working miniature fire place plus infrared video.
I would have to imagine the "cleaning access" door would be great for smoker-style cooking as well.
Cleaning of the Russian stoves is done only occasionally, by removing two strategically placed bricks in the structure. Chimneys and stoves are often painted white to make it easy to spot any dangerous leakage.
Wow this is the most straight forward direct visual explanation of the basics of that type of woodstove/heater.
I've been wanting to build my own new replacement for the old crappy 1970s funnel fireplace my dad built in when I was a kid, its terribly inefficient. Its cool looking but wastes so much heat.
I've just really been interested in these when I had them featured in a magazine I was getting back several years ago.
Thanks...now I want tiny bricks and a miniature trowel.
aliexpress.com/item/1005003209978461.html
Great demo, I’ve built a few fireplaces in my time and I can see how this would reduce down draft problems, particularly with a short stack. I’m assuming once the bricks heated up, the draft would be very strong and the thermal mass would continue to radiate heat.
There are clinker bricks around the main chamber, to accumulate the heat.
thats why this isnt actually the best demonstration - he didnt preheat the stack using the top gate. Thats pretty important where extreme temps happen, the smoke wont even push out of the stack if the temp was below zero celsius, not without smoking out the cabin.
@michaellebert8907 that was my only concern but I can see how well it would work once heated
Thanks for this neat demonstration of the airflow characteristics of a proper oven, as well as demonstrating how to assemble one. : - )
How to increase the combustion chamber temperature for the cleanest most efficient burn? Take the heat out of the system outside the combustion area, that is, in the exhaust pathway. Best to insulate the combustion chamber, and perhaps it’ll even require pre-gasification of the fuel. Aim for blue flame in a small combustion chamber and a long heat removal path to combine good burn with good heat extraction. Key is not sucking the heat away from the combustion chamber walls.
This is a great few steps in the right direction. Congratulations and thank you.
I am burning wood in a similar setup. Would you keep next days logs near the oven, for a 24 hour preheating?
@@skakpedersenI put mine on the thermal mass, drives any moisture out
@@906MediaProductions Thank you very much!
@@skakpedersen That is why old fireplaces normally had a compartment for storing a bit of wood right alongside them: you'd fire the place and then get wood for the next burn which would be nice and dry before it is needed.
I used a similar type of stove in Russia. There were two dampers, both open to start the fire. Once it was going and the chimney was warm, the lower one was closed. When all the wood was burned (usually in less than an hour) we closed all inlets and the chimney damper. Then the whole structure heated up and kept the house warm for about 12 hours. I would like to have seen an explanation of how that worked.
Thanks Grain. Quality demonstration done w/dignity.
Отличная демонстрация! Хоть и в миниатюре, но весьма полезный материал отсняли. Огромное вам спасибо!
Спасибо! Идею подсмотрел у Владимира Вишнякова - ua-cam.com/video/NgFROrtpmks/v-deo.html
@@grain8314 И за это видео - тоже спасибо.
@@TheNavi1982 Кстати, он делает такие контрукторы печей на заказ, там где-то есть его контакты.
Cool!
This is great for learning about the how the oven works. Can't wait to check out your other videos!
Those tiny bricks are the cutest 😂
Very effective demonstration!
Да,,,,,КПД 💯 процентов ,по Вашей конструкции смело можно делать дачный вариант печи, Спасибо!!!!!
you are the man! I hope to see more of your work here on UA-cam. Thanks!
Fantastic Stanislav! Thank You from New York!
Great job. Such an innovative idea to illustrate how masonry wood heater work without words. I wonder where a good place could be to drill a bunch of holes to combust the smoke.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, otherwise it cools the gasses below their flash point. I have a woodburning furnace that runs the incoming air through metal tubes in the firebox before releasing it through many tiny holes in tubes across the top of the firebox. When burning, they look just like the jets in a gas furnace. So to answer your question, an additional layer of brick could be stacked to form an envelope around the firebox, with narrow gaps along the top of the firebox. These channels would be closed when the firebox is first lit, to prevent downdrafting smoke away from the chimney, then opened once a good draw and flame is established.
Very COoL (or hot depending:) Back in the 60's they use to fear the 'draft'. But it look pretty sweet to me. I love that you even have a tiny tool too - oh, my bad Cheers from So.CA.USA 2nd House On the Left.
My grandfather had one of these and he smoked hams in the top channel on a grill.
Now I finally understand these things, thanks for the effort!
Very cool! Please do more designs!
Thank you for your greatest visual statement!
Thanks to this video, i now understand that a three channel oven works by smoke go up down up. Or sometimes, not
Imagine burying those smoke routes horizontally under the floor of the house. That's ondol, a Korean traditional heating system. We cannot enjoy fire indoor but the house is nice and warm even from your feet. I can imagine your demonstration would be good too.
such a lovely demonstration.
You did a really amazing work! I couldn't help myself but subscribe to your channel for this great illustration using a real miniatur demo!
Interesting & nice demonstration.Thank you 👍
Thank you for this video. Very interesting design, wish my fireplace had been built like this. Subscribed.
"grain" - thanks so much for sharing this
I don't need it but I'm so gonna make it this summer. It's been years since UA-cam suggested something so fun and informative that made me wanna do it myself.
You got yourself a sub.
Curious, what are you going to use it for, a dollhouse?
Good that it shows condensation in the chimney. That’s where old log burners leave creosote and tar I believe.
that was incredibly helpful, thank you.
Неслабо вы заморочились! :) Отличный демонстратор получился
Beautiful!
Thanks for sharing 👍
Miniature that functions...means tomorrow one big normal stove,functioning perfect!👏
amazing demonstration.
I love your video, this convinced me to make this my hobby.
Didn't your mother told you to not play with fire?! LOL 😂 😂
Awesome demonstration. Love the scale model. Cheers
Now I want to build a model like this but with a secondary air inlet between the fire box & the bottom of the 'P' trap
.
At first I wasn't sure just what this demo was, I thought it was some full scale thing. With a bit of a secondary air inlet, this could be an excellent demo of that design.
That secondary air needs to be preheated, or all it does is recondense the volatiles.
If you add four or five more layers of brick over the burn grate, you could add an oven
This is both adorable _and_ educational!
Stunning! Great work!
simple but good demo... nice it shows how the waterdroplets form in the chimney
Wait.....why was there water droplets in the chimney? That makes no sense to me, but it seems to make sense to you
@@donperegrine922 They would not be there normally I guess. This is only moisture from the heated air, condensating on the colder glass plate
@@TotoMacFrame I guess I don't have a good intuition for condensation. I thought the cold glass would have to be colder than room temperature.
Or otherwise, the hot air to have more water than the cold air.
Do normal brick chimneys or fireplaces ever get condensation, while the brick is cold?
@@donperegrine922 Rule of thumb is: the warmer the air, the more moisture it can carry. When warm and humid air gets cooled, it cannot hold on to the humidity and the water "falls out" the air, resulting in fogged up windows in the winter, or in fogged up windows in the car when you breathe much in winter before the heating works fully. The air basically gets rid of all the water it cannot carry any longer when it cools down, e.g. by touching a cold surface. This surface basically only has to be cooler than the air to let this happen. Cooking pot with glas lid? Lid gets condensated, since the hot air from the pot cools down on the cooler lid. Those droplets are still freaking hot though.
If this happens in a normal chimney is beyond my knowledge, but everything I know points towards "It should".
Muito interessante. Obrigado pela aula!
This was very well done. Thank you.
This looks really cool, idk what I just learned though. Something special happen with making the smoke maze around instead of going straight out?
It's for traping the heat apparently
This is the Coolest thing I have ever seen ❤️.
Thank you.
wow that was really neat!
Inspiring me to build miniature stoves, built a simpleone out of aluminium can in 1/13 scale today - It worked!
Thankyou!... very nicely done.
It's a beautiful model of a brick rocket stove.
this is genious, it keeps the cold air out, and lets smoke out too :O
How do you clean around the bends?
Excelllent simply demo!
Excellent Video.
Respect....
Would it make sense to pass air through the flames and into the duct to try and burn the smoke? I know paper produce alot o smoke so it might not be possible with regular fuel, but it would be cool!
(Or rather, lit 😎)
Great little model. So what is the advantage of the s channel in the ducting? Why not just go straight up? Does that capture more heat in the house with this style?
The bricks absorb the heat from the smoke. It becomes a thermal mass which will radiate the heat even after the fire goes out. The long path allows better heat absorption than a straight shot.
Check out thermal mass rocket stoves. There is no smoke one the stove gets going, and no heat is wasted out the chimney.
santa claus was crying when saw this video
Nice! Does the first part get hot enough to auto-ignite the exhaust gases, as a rocket stove does?
Good video, Grain.
Awesome! Thanks 👏
Amazing 👍🏻
El aire frio jamas dificulta el funcionamiento perfecto el plano❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Отлично! Только будет кто делать тоочную часть.Нужно выложить из шамотного кирпича, чтоб не прогорел красный кирпич.
Why am I watching this 3am if I live at a tropical country? 😂
Объём второго оборота должен быть больше первого.
Ну а так очень забавно получилось 👍
Согласен с вами. Чем шире спуск, тем больше горячих газов в печке. Получится колпаковая печь.
This is just so cool.
You could use the bottom as the coal area, middle as cooking area, and top as a smoker right?
So this was only used for heating and not cooking as well?
Is it called yhree channel because of the up, down, up pathway in the chimney? Or Because there are 3 openings?
Buena demostración. Ahora en verano se podrá asar unas sardinas en ese invento jajajaja...saludos amigo.
Хорошая демонстрация. Теперь летом в этом изобретении можно поджарить сардины, хахахаха ... привет друг.
I expected that the small upperclean out door was actually used to Start the airflow and proper draft as you then beging the fire below... Nice job!
Would like to see other designs, like down exhaust to a bed/stratification Chamber... and then exit smoke from the floor...!?
I think it is a place to put a baking oven.
Very cool! Can you make a version that illustrates an oven with secondary combustion chamber?
This is really cool, Grain would please add a air pipe with port holes and a vavle to the bottom of the second bend, once its hot you should beable to achieve some secondary burning of the flue gas.
look at the pot style waste oil burner videos , they have a air pipe and blue flames come off the fresh air jets. i think with some restriction on the opening , the draft should pull air in the sujested air pipe
What did you use for the mortar, it seems darker than what I'm used to seeing.
Nice video , got my attention now .
beautiful and enlighning.
Brilliant....well done.....
And... how on Earth do you clean up (if done at a normal scale) the chimney? From top & bottom + suction in the middle?
I am not a smart man. Is this an improvement over a straight chimney?
Pozri sa najprv ako funguje krb. Ako sa napája komín. Chýba ti komora kde sa otáča studený vzduch prichádzajúci zhora aby sa otočil, potrebuje priestor dole. Na otočený vzduch sa vyšie napojí samotné ohnisko. Tento istý princíp je aj pri napájaní rúry na komín. Komín musí byť dlhší smerom dole aby napájanie bolo vyšie ako dno komína. Vietor, studený vzduch sa tak môže otočiť a ísť naspäť smerom hore. Tým sa zabezpečí ťah, nebude unikať dym do miestnosti.
How do you clean the internal chimney? Watching the soot build up just in that small demo makes me wonder how you prevent chimney fires in a full sized one.
You use a brush like a normal chimney. The back one you clean upwards from the burn chamber, then the cleanout door above the burn chamber for the horizontal section, and from the top of the chimney for the tall section.
I am completely lost as to what point this video is trying to make about this furnace design.
Is the point of this design to capture more of the heat from the fire for heating the building, or is it more about controlling smoke? How would this funace be positioned in the home? (Answered by possibly including some existing or historical examples of this furnace in the real world.)
What are the limits on the length of the center "downward" channel? I assume that it does not work if it is either too short or too long.
Adding some thermal imagery might also have been helpful, along with a side by side comparison to a straight chimney furnace, or whatever the cimpeting design was.
I totaly understand the artistic design of the video itself. I would be totally happy to read the explanation in the video description or a pinned comment.
I apologize for not reading everyone's questions and answers but aside from that my question is how do you clean the creosote out of the cavities or is the temperature so hot that there is no creosote buildup?
Great, but how do you clean the soot from the further vertical parts? Would it be possible?
The backmost channel would have access at the top. Buildup is pushed down into the chamber.
Never before seen!
Miniature Flames, how did he do that?
This design makes for more thoughts.
I now get how to make one. How does it work though? Well, heat rises, so I get that much. But I guess I'm not following what the benefit is to the S bend. How does that works better than going straight up like a normal chimney? I know more about it now but also am somehow more confused at the same time...lol.
Most of the heat is not reflected back into the room, is it used for cooking or baking?
How do you clean it to prevent chimney fires?
Et pour le ramonage de la cheminée, comment faites-vous ? - And for chimney sweeping, how do you do it ?
Thank you for this. You have no idea how very helpful this was for me. I look forward to building something like this in my future home before the Grand Solar Minimum really gets going.
Seems that the flame going up the back flue would increase risk of chimney fires. I also am curious how one would clean out debris including ash and soon at the bottom of the chimney.
Excellent