Can i ask.. do this work with any software like Adobe illustrator CS6 am good design and how do think of other program with laser cutting... ? that from Adobe Illustrator ???
from his settings in the video, my guess is he has a 75 watt... and that big of project.. depending on the detail (which at 600 dpi is a lot) 40 minutes is my guess. Which is pretty fast.
+هيثم المراياتي I can support you some high quality and good price laser machine, if you are interesting, you can Email me. My Email: Vincentwecl@gmail.com
This sure seems way more complicated than it need to be. First, it sounded like you said you used “R grade” plywood. What is R-grade? I have never heard of that and Internet machine searches iterate the commonly known A - D grades that most folks know. While color assignments might be nice, they are really not that necessary. Vector lines _have_ to be hairline (width or less than 0.06 pt or 0.004" or 0.025mm, etc.). Making vector lines red (or any other color) is easy for the designer to know, but there is no need to tie this to a color mapping protocol. You can assign any color you want when using a combined laser printing job (both vector cutting and raster engraving). When the laser sees a hairline graphic element, it will cut; when it sees a non-hairline (or raster) element, will engrave. Instead of doing advanced settings thru color mapping, just change the color of raster images and avoid color mapping: just use a shade of black. In general, a 35% black (or gray) will laser lighter than solid black. What I do is use one piece of wood with several small boxes drawn and filled with a different shade of gray (or black), and then laser the boxes. From that you do not have to spend time dinking around with color mapping; you can see how much lighter shades of gray will be - and avoid color mapping. This is just a handy reference piece in which to refer rather than memorizing the particular speed and power settings for the lightness or darkness of what you want to do. In all likelihood, depending on the quality of ones laser tube, the difference between 100% gray, i.e., black and, for example, 80% gray (a shade of black) will be negligible. The largest nuance differences for me are between 25% to 1% gray; between 80% and 25% gray, a jump of 5% produces a noticeable shade of raster lasering. On most lasers, raster (engraved stuff) lasers before vector hairlines. Relative to non-flat pieces, because there are large areas that are not being lasered, it is much better to use weights to hold down wood or any other material. Using masking tape is kinda bizarre from my perspective: duct tape maybe…. Tape can easily come un-stuck, from either the wood or metal table guide - or both, _during_ lasering. And even then, you are only holding down badly warped wood in two places: what about the bottom? A weight, such as a metal bar or small barbell weight, works great. What I did is go to a shop with a water jet and have him cut me out, in my case, several ovals, ¼” & 3/8" steel about 2½” x 4.” I commonly need this size to hold down central pieces of stuff where I know vector beam will not be. If you do not know if the metal weigh will interfere with whatever is being lasered, what can be done, in this video’s instance, is place bars on the wood to hold it down and then run the _vector_ part of the a job at 100% speed and 0 power and the red dot pointer on with the steel bars placed on both X-axes: top and bottom of the plywood. This will immediately show you if your weights will interfere with any part of the lasering. In this case, a couple of 24" or 20" long by ¼” high by 1¼” or 1½” wide bars would have worked great - with no risk of the wood moving or screwing up a job halfway thru. In this video’s example, two 5" and 5-pound weights would have been more than enough and could have likely easily fit on the top or bottom of the train, as it lays on the laser bed. If your material is bowed too much that it would hit the lens assembly, perhaps you should not be lasering this wood without some pre-treatment or different material storage method. If you are using a 2" lens, the a bow greater than 1¾” w/could interfere with lens assembly, or, also, depending on how low your lens’ air assist tube hangs. Bottom line, there are better ways to deal with bowed material. I can pretty much guarantee you that tape would definitely NOT hold do a laminate like Formica or WilsonArt. Finally, forget about the size of the object. Set one standard “page” size for ALL laser jobs and set the home position ONE time. Who has time to dink around setting a new home for each job? In this particular video, the home position might have been off by ¼” or so. That was irrelevant in this video; there was probably enough wood to print out two designs, thus being off by a small fraction of an inch was, from my perspective, wasted time with the laser running. If ALL laser jobs were designed in CorelDraw or whatever, the placement of the image to be lasered is fixed relative to that standard page size. In my case, my standard page size is 24½” x 12½.” If I want to laser a 3" x 5" plaque, I put a non-printing box in the upper left hand corner of standard page and then design within that small area. The software prints whatever is shown on the design, thus, every time I print something, CorelDraw is sending a 24½” x 12½” page to the laser machine, but ONLY the graphic in the 3" x 5" box lasers. IF a design is in the upper left 3" x 5" area of the page, then that is where and what will laser. If I want the design in the bottom right corner of the plywood, then I put the small design in the bottom right page in the graphics program; I do this all the time. Let the software control where the object is to be lasered without manually spending time on each job telling the laser where to do its thing. In this case, I have to wonder if half the plywood was wasted. If the design was rotated 90°, it would be easy to see if it would fit on the left side of the “standard” 24 x 18 page that can be used for ALL laser jobs - or maybe reduce the size of the image by a couple inches and save the customer some money (and produce less waste).
Sweet stance at the end.
In case anyone was wondering, the raster and cutting portions of this video were VERY sped up. Beautiful machine though!
Where do you get the "special grade of wood" for your laser???? Thank you
This was extremely helpful! Thanks!
clear with good pacing...thanks
Great ROCK \,,/ stance at the end :)
Can i ask.. do this work with any software like Adobe illustrator CS6 am good design and how do think of other program with laser cutting... ? that from Adobe Illustrator ???
thumbs up for using metric
can you share any knowledge on cutting carbon fiber
How many watts I need for five mm glass board?Thanks indeed.
Can this laser also cut metal
How long did it take to cut/engrave that job?
from his settings in the video, my guess is he has a 75 watt... and that big of project.. depending on the detail (which at 600 dpi is a lot) 40 minutes is my guess. Which is pretty fast.
Nice video
please let me know the price of this machine in india
nicejob
sounds like A.V.E
hey im from manitoba
i saw a graphtec plotter
please How much the price of this machine
+هيثم المراياتي I can support you some high quality and good price laser machine, if you are interesting, you can Email me. My Email: Vincentwecl@gmail.com
100 bucks says that was 1/8" baltic birch, and not 1/4" plywood as he claims it is. Any takers...?
This sure seems way more complicated than it need to be. First, it sounded like you said you used “R grade” plywood. What is R-grade? I have never heard of that and Internet machine searches iterate the commonly known A - D grades that most folks know.
While color assignments might be nice, they are really not that necessary. Vector lines _have_ to be hairline (width or less than 0.06 pt or 0.004" or 0.025mm, etc.). Making vector lines red (or any other color) is easy for the designer to know, but there is no need to tie this to a color mapping protocol. You can assign any color you want when using a combined laser printing job (both vector cutting and raster engraving). When the laser sees a hairline graphic element, it will cut; when it sees a non-hairline (or raster) element, will engrave. Instead of doing advanced settings thru color mapping, just change the color of raster images and avoid color mapping: just use a shade of black. In general, a 35% black (or gray) will laser lighter than solid black. What I do is use one piece of wood with several small boxes drawn and filled with a different shade of gray (or black), and then laser the boxes. From that you do not have to spend time dinking around with color mapping; you can see how much lighter shades of gray will be - and avoid color mapping. This is just a handy reference piece in which to refer rather than memorizing the particular speed and power settings for the lightness or darkness of what you want to do. In all likelihood, depending on the quality of ones laser tube, the difference between 100% gray, i.e., black and, for example, 80% gray (a shade of black) will be negligible. The largest nuance differences for me are between 25% to 1% gray; between 80% and 25% gray, a jump of 5% produces a noticeable shade of raster lasering. On most lasers, raster (engraved stuff) lasers before vector hairlines.
Relative to non-flat pieces, because there are large areas that are not being lasered, it is much better to use weights to hold down wood or any other material. Using masking tape is kinda bizarre from my perspective: duct tape maybe…. Tape can easily come un-stuck, from either the wood or metal table guide - or both, _during_ lasering. And even then, you are only holding down badly warped wood in two places: what about the bottom? A weight, such as a metal bar or small barbell weight, works great. What I did is go to a shop with a water jet and have him cut me out, in my case, several ovals, ¼” & 3/8" steel about 2½” x 4.” I commonly need this size to hold down central pieces of stuff where I know vector beam will not be. If you do not know if the metal weigh will interfere with whatever is being lasered, what can be done, in this video’s instance, is place bars on the wood to hold it down and then run the _vector_ part of the a job at 100% speed and 0 power and the red dot pointer on with the steel bars placed on both X-axes: top and bottom of the plywood. This will immediately show you if your weights will interfere with any part of the lasering. In this case, a couple of 24" or 20" long by ¼” high by 1¼” or 1½” wide bars would have worked great - with no risk of the wood moving or screwing up a job halfway thru. In this video’s example, two 5" and 5-pound weights would have been more than enough and could have likely easily fit on the top or bottom of the train, as it lays on the laser bed.
If your material is bowed too much that it would hit the lens assembly, perhaps you should not be lasering this wood without some pre-treatment or different material storage method. If you are using a 2" lens, the a bow greater than 1¾” w/could interfere with lens assembly, or, also, depending on how low your lens’ air assist tube hangs. Bottom line, there are better ways to deal with bowed material. I can pretty much guarantee you that tape would definitely NOT hold do a laminate like Formica or WilsonArt.
Finally, forget about the size of the object. Set one standard “page” size for ALL laser jobs and set the home position ONE time. Who has time to dink around setting a new home for each job? In this particular video, the home position might have been off by ¼” or so. That was irrelevant in this video; there was probably enough wood to print out two designs, thus being off by a small fraction of an inch was, from my perspective, wasted time with the laser running. If ALL laser jobs were designed in CorelDraw or whatever, the placement of the image to be lasered is fixed relative to that standard page size. In my case, my standard page size is 24½” x 12½.” If I want to laser a 3" x 5" plaque, I put a non-printing box in the upper left hand corner of standard page and then design within that small area. The software prints whatever is shown on the design, thus, every time I print something, CorelDraw is sending a 24½” x 12½” page to the laser machine, but ONLY the graphic in the 3" x 5" box lasers. IF a design is in the upper left 3" x 5" area of the page, then that is where and what will laser. If I want the design in the bottom right corner of the plywood, then I put the small design in the bottom right page in the graphics program; I do this all the time. Let the software control where the object is to be lasered without manually spending time on each job telling the laser where to do its thing. In this case, I have to wonder if half the plywood was wasted. If the design was rotated 90°, it would be easy to see if it would fit on the left side of the “standard” 24 x 18 page that can be used for ALL laser jobs - or maybe reduce the size of the image by a couple inches and save the customer some money (and produce less waste).
Nice video