Thanks for sharing. I also made one of the Torsion Boxes. I used half inch plywood with a double thickness between the two pieces of plywood about 30mm wide. Inside it is mostly air so the total weight is only about 10% more than the two pieces of plywood. If you make it oversize, it can be finished on a table saw to be exactly the planer thicknesser width minus 3-4mm (and looks neater). If you made one properly it won't flex even if you stand on it when supported at each end. Using two thicknesses of (glued) MDF would be almost as good and easier, depending upon what you have available as offcuts, to use. I used only glue, and I would suggest either removing the screws after the glue has set, especially on the end stop, as this prevents contact with the (valuable) blades later on. Maybe brass screws (from the underneath) would also not harm the blade - not sure. Putting wood through a thickness planner makes it smoother but corrugated/bowed wood in only comes out thinner and not flatter without this jig - something you quickly learn. Until I watched video, this I hadn't realised why the end stop (glued not screwed, of course) should be at the "pulling" end simply because the planer pulls the wood through that also pulls the jig through. I have a piece of wood to press down or push the jig/wood through the planer to keep my hands at least one hand width away from the machine. Without the jig you might have lots of passes and never get a piece of wood (now almost paper) flat. For the little effort and time to make it's a good idea. For most DIYers it probably removes the need to buy a conventional thicknesser/jointer which are both expensive and more dangerous (less safe) and take up more space. A modification for putting boards through vertically, are two lengths of stable square wood that can be used to provide lateral support or using several boards together. It can help to screw them together at the ends or use contact adhesive - but obviously no clamps near a rotating machine. I think making any jig properly first for a task, makes making the "thing" either possible or certainly easier. Simon
Wow Simon. That is most certainly the longest comment I have ever received. 😊 Yes, I suppose a torsion box would work better. Anything that stays flat. Once it starts out flat, and shims are inserted, the pressure of the roller spring will keep flat
@@IrishChippyNo Problem (NP). The main thing is to avoid any kind of metal screws that have the potential to (unintentionally) interfere with the cutting blades? Also having a pusher block to keep fingers away from the entrance? You also have a video about swapping the blades. On my planer thicknesser, I have never had reason to go back and take out the blades. However, I noticed recently that the planing (I'm flattening 2" Cherry Boards) is very good except I get one pencil thin score across the boards - which sand out with 180g paper. I think this means that the edge of one blade requires attention. Perhaps a diamond rasp can be used to take off a "nick" and the second blade will cover this up? If that doesn't work then the blades are reversible (second chance) and finally new blades could be bought/fitted? Watching the video and understanding how to get the blade out is a big first step to solving the problem. On a rainy day I also watched your video on making a front door. Whilst I may not attempt it, it is good to see how you plan and get it constructed (especially with the two Helpers that you have). Simon
Can't afford a jointer yet but I'm happy to get a planer thicknesser and used this jig in the meantime...Thanks lad, people like you make the world go around, this has saved me researching further just subscribed.
The good thing about the makita is the blades. They are double sided (double use) and there is no need to set. Sure, after 2 changes they are disposable. I am on second side after 3 years and 1,000s of feet. I have a spare set, and have not needed to use them yet
Even though I hadn't seen one, I was pretty sure many people would have adapted something like this in the past. I was surprised how simple and fast it is to get the job done
Thanks for sharing. This type of jig is on my to do list as my jointer is so small. If I make it, I'll be adding double sided tape or hot glue to the shims to make sure they don't move when I put the board through the planer :)
Thank you for watching Grant. I just used masking tape to hold them in place in the subsequent 40 or so pieces. Easy to pull up. Also made sure the front end was tight against the stop. I processed all pieces including edges in a half of a day. These piece are for the two panels in the door.
Irish Chippy This is extremely risky. There must be a stop block at the back of your jig. The cutting knives can throw the stock backwards at very high speed.
Yes I wondered the same. I’ve watched approximately 10 different UA-cam tutorials and this is the first one that says put stop plate at infeed end. The reason you put it to the out feed end is because cutter head spins opposite way thus preventing kick back type scenarios. I’m just a newbie but my newly acquired common sense and knowledge tells me NOT to put stopper end in first.
excellent job man thanks i will do it i just bought the same thicknesser it is in the box i haven't yet opened the box i was looking for installation video if you have it kindly share it. regards
A couple of spots of hot glue will stop the wedges from moving. If you don’t wish to mark the base board, glue the wedges to the piece you are flattening
Great video, I guess you can level the narrow sides by holding the wood with a piece of plywood on each side to keep it from wobbling? What's the highest a typical planer thicknesser can go?
Thank you. Not just stopping it from wobbling, it stops the roller pressing down on that corner/side. When you have one side flat, there is no need for the jig for the second side. This is the exact model I have except different volts amzn.to/3mKgGL8 and is sold cheaper than this sometimes. It is 310mm wide, and the thickness height is 160mm
Good but repeating until you level I can imagine the power and cabide blade expenses, makita 1805N is a smart investment for the task, thank good video.
Thank you very much. The most important thing about the edge is that it is square to the faces as well as straight. To achieve that most people have a jointer, but I do not have one ($ 😪 ). Instead I made a simple jig for my table saw. You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/xzde8SIG-J8/v-deo.html
Weird, it sounded like it was sniping the end of the board towards the end of the process but you didn't mention it so it must have just been something else?
🤣😂🤣😂 My mother wanted me to go for elocution, as she said I did not pronounce my 'th's properly. That was the 60's when BBC English was all the rave. Now I see on the same BBC, west and east Ireland accents (as well as Oz) all the time
Thank you. I am not sure which of Makita facilities it is made in, but it is build like a tank. I have it in my workshop since 2015, and it has planed tens of thousand of feet. It is very expensive, but worth it in my opinion.
No. Not at all. The rubber roller pulls the wood in, and the wood stays up against the sled because of this. If there was no stopper, or the stopper was at the back, the machine would pull the wood off the sled. Thank you for watching
@@IrishChippy I don't think you know what I am saying. Watch this vid and she has the stop fastened to the sled so that the blades push the timber against the stop. ua-cam.com/video/AWOB-WIDkOs/v-deo.html
I understand exactly what you mean. The only reason the board is not sliding over the sled in her video, is because it is rough wood. Mine is melamine, and if I used it the wrong way around like her, the the sled would not move with the wood being taking in, and in turn fall off the spacers. The pushing force is on the lumber going forward, thus it has to pull the sled underneath. If your planer had rollers on the bottom, then the stopper may need to be on the back. I made this some years ago, and I have used 100's of times for work. My video was not made just for entertainment. It works. I did a 'ctrl+f' search on the first 200+ post comments, and I I found 10 persons pointing out the error. In one post the uploader (understanding the error) said it did not matter because she had stuck with hot glue.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been hunting down a jointer but now you've given me a solution to flattening boards with warps
I use it regularly
Thanks for sharing. I also made one of the Torsion Boxes. I used half inch plywood with a double thickness between the two pieces of plywood about 30mm wide. Inside it is mostly air so the total weight is only about 10% more than the two pieces of plywood. If you make it oversize, it can be finished on a table saw to be exactly the planer thicknesser width minus 3-4mm (and looks neater). If you made one properly it won't flex even if you stand on it when supported at each end. Using two thicknesses of (glued) MDF would be almost as good and easier, depending upon what you have available as offcuts, to use. I used only glue, and I would suggest either removing the screws after the glue has set, especially on the end stop, as this prevents contact with the (valuable) blades later on. Maybe brass screws (from the underneath) would also not harm the blade - not sure.
Putting wood through a thickness planner makes it smoother but corrugated/bowed wood in only comes out thinner and not flatter without this jig - something you quickly learn. Until I watched video, this I hadn't realised why the end stop (glued not screwed, of course) should be at the "pulling" end simply because the planer pulls the wood through that also pulls the jig through. I have a piece of wood to press down or push the jig/wood through the planer to keep my hands at least one hand width away from the machine.
Without the jig you might have lots of passes and never get a piece of wood (now almost paper) flat. For the little effort and time to make it's a good idea. For most DIYers it probably removes the need to buy a conventional thicknesser/jointer which are both expensive and more dangerous (less safe) and take up more space. A modification for putting boards through vertically, are two lengths of stable square wood that can be used to provide lateral support or using several boards together. It can help to screw them together at the ends or use contact adhesive - but obviously no clamps near a rotating machine. I think making any jig properly first for a task, makes making the "thing" either possible or certainly easier. Simon
Wow Simon. That is most certainly the longest comment I have ever received. 😊 Yes, I suppose a torsion box would work better. Anything that stays flat. Once it starts out flat, and shims are inserted, the pressure of the roller spring will keep flat
@@IrishChippyNo Problem (NP). The main thing is to avoid any kind of metal screws that have the potential to (unintentionally) interfere with the cutting blades? Also having a pusher block to keep fingers away from the entrance? You also have a video about swapping the blades. On my planer thicknesser, I have never had reason to go back and take out the blades. However, I noticed recently that the planing (I'm flattening 2" Cherry Boards) is very good except I get one pencil thin score across the boards - which sand out with 180g paper. I think this means that the edge of one blade requires attention. Perhaps a diamond rasp can be used to take off a "nick" and the second blade will cover this up? If that doesn't work then the blades are reversible (second chance) and finally new blades could be bought/fitted? Watching the video and understanding how to get the blade out is a big first step to solving the problem. On a rainy day I also watched your video on making a front door. Whilst I may not attempt it, it is good to see how you plan and get it constructed (especially with the two Helpers that you have). Simon
Can't afford a jointer yet but I'm happy to get a planer thicknesser and used this jig in the meantime...Thanks lad, people like you make the world go around, this has saved me researching further just subscribed.
Sorry for the late reply, Mark. It is people like you that give me the encouragement to make videos. Thank you
@@IrishChippy your welcome Pascal.
Thanks for the good tips pascal on planing uneven boards.
Hi Manny. Thank you for watching. I hope you are doing well.
@@IrishChippy I'm hanging in there and staying busy just like you...😀
Thanks for sharing all of your great tips Pascal! You are more advance at woodworking and we are learning so much from you!
Hello there ladies. Once again you flatter me. Nice coffee table you just made 😉
Hello again Pascal🍀
Absolutely great Tips & Ideas! Real talent! Thanks for sharing and best regards/Ned
Hello there Ned. Thank you for watching. I hope all is well with you
I'm OK thank you for asking Pascal🍀! Take care and have a fabulous day you and your lovely family/Ned
Thanks. I am just about to get a thicknesser and feel more confident now.
The good thing about the makita is the blades. They are double sided (double use) and there is no need to set. Sure, after 2 changes they are disposable. I am on second side after 3 years and 1,000s of feet. I have a spare set, and have not needed to use them yet
Love the accent! You have taught me a lot Sir. Thank you.
Thank you for watching. I suppose I still have retained my Irish accent 😁
How's she goin'? That's a great tip for flattening a board. That is always a chore to get your wood flat. Thanks for sharing!!! Take 'er easy!!!
Hey there Mike. Hope you and Nanny are doing good. The spring will be upon you soon
Great and simple explanation. Thanks.
Thank you. Yes it is simple.
I use a similar jig in my planer, Pascal...good tip.
Even though I hadn't seen one, I was pretty sure many people would have adapted something like this in the past. I was surprised how simple and fast it is to get the job done
Thank you very much for your video it's very good for me. Good luck every day.
Thank you very much for watching, and I am glad you enjoyed it.
Very clever - thank you
Welcome. Thanks for watching.
what a wonderful workshop! was because of the watermelons by the way...
Thank you Arch. The garden is a de-stressor. I have another channel called growNglow.
I use this method often, Pascal. Works great!
Billy
Yes Billy. Perfect results, and as I had 40 or so boards to do, it was very quick
Thanks for sharing. This type of jig is on my to do list as my jointer is so small. If I make it, I'll be adding double sided tape or hot glue to the shims to make sure they don't move when I put the board through the planer :)
Thank you for watching Grant. I just used masking tape to hold them in place in the subsequent 40 or so pieces. Easy to pull up. Also made sure the front end was tight against the stop. I processed all pieces including edges in a half of a day. These piece are for the two panels in the door.
@@IrishChippy good job 👍👍
Well done. Even though I have a jointer there are still times when this technique can come in handy.
Thank you Don. The jointer is much more versatile, especially if it has a long table
Irish Chippy mine is 72 inches. I’ve used it for 8 foot boards with good results.
Can I borrow it for the two stiles of my 4' x 8' mahogany door 😎
Irish Chippy I wish you lived close enough to do that. 😁
I'll figure out a way 🤣 Thank you
i subscribed to you your classes are good, plus your accent is great
Thank you so much
Good tip but I’ve always seen the stop at the other end ie from the end that feeds the planer to stop the stock from being pushed backwards
Hi Tony. The roller is on the top, dragging the top piece forward. The jig is pulled along because of the stop.
Irish Chippy This is extremely risky. There must be a stop block at the back of your jig. The cutting knives can throw the stock backwards at very high speed.
Yes I wondered the same. I’ve watched approximately 10 different UA-cam tutorials and this is the first one that says put stop plate at infeed end. The reason you put it to the out feed end is because cutter head spins opposite way thus preventing kick back type scenarios. I’m just a newbie but my newly acquired common sense and knowledge tells me NOT to put stopper end in first.
How come you don’t have any type of dust collection? That’s key
Great tip!
Thank you, and thank's for watching!
Thanks, great video
Thank you David.
excellent job man thanks i will do it i just bought the same thicknesser it is in the box i haven't yet opened the box i was looking for installation video if you have it kindly share it.
regards
Hi Khalid. Thank you for watching. There is nothing to install. It is full assembled
Thanks again OK I got it my regards
Good tip! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
A couple of spots of hot glue will stop the wedges from moving. If you don’t wish to mark the base board, glue the wedges to the piece you are flattening
Great idea Ricky
@@IrishChippy Thanks Pal 👍
Also you can use painters tape on the shims to keep it in place
Great video, I guess you can level the narrow sides by holding the wood with a piece of plywood on each side to keep it from wobbling? What's the highest a typical planer thicknesser can go?
Thank you. Not just stopping it from wobbling, it stops the roller pressing down on that corner/side. When you have one side flat, there is no need for the jig for the second side. This is the exact model I have except different volts amzn.to/3mKgGL8 and is sold cheaper than this sometimes. It is 310mm wide, and the thickness height is 160mm
Good but repeating until you level I can imagine the power and cabide blade expenses, makita 1805N is a smart investment for the task, thank good video.
It was well worth it. I have planed 10,000s of fett on one set of blades. Thank you for watching
Awesome video sir. How to get the edges flat?
Thank you very much. The most important thing about the edge is that it is square to the faces as well as straight. To achieve that most people have a jointer, but I do not have one ($ 😪 ). Instead I made a simple jig for my table saw. You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/xzde8SIG-J8/v-deo.html
Weird, it sounded like it was sniping the end of the board towards the end of the process but you didn't mention it so it must have just been something else?
I didn't notice any snipe marks
How to use a ticknesser haha shout out from Australia
🤣😂🤣😂 My mother wanted me to go for elocution, as she said I did not pronounce my 'th's properly. That was the 60's when BBC English was all the rave. Now I see on the same BBC, west and east Ireland accents (as well as Oz) all the time
Does this jig also help avoid snipe?
The Makita usually has zero snipe, but if it did, it would help
where can i buy a ticknesser from?
There is a link in the description. Thank you for watching
I tink you moit get one onloin
That's a small Ticknesser 😜
Not really. It is 305mm which is pretty standard in this category. Thank you for watching
Hi pal. Is this planer thicknesser made in China? Thanks.
Thank you. I am not sure which of Makita facilities it is made in, but it is build like a tank. I have it in my workshop since 2015, and it has planed tens of thousand of feet. It is very expensive, but worth it in my opinion.
surrely the stop you screwed to it should be on the other end so the blades won't try and push the timber of the home made sled.
No. Not at all. The rubber roller pulls the wood in, and the wood stays up against the sled because of this. If there was no stopper, or the stopper was at the back, the machine would pull the wood off the sled. Thank you for watching
@@IrishChippy I don't think you know what I am saying. Watch this vid and she has the stop fastened to the sled so that the blades push the timber against the stop. ua-cam.com/video/AWOB-WIDkOs/v-deo.html
I understand exactly what you mean. The only reason the board is not sliding over the sled in her video, is because it is rough wood. Mine is melamine, and if I used it the wrong way around like her, the the sled would not move with the wood being taking in, and in turn fall off the spacers. The pushing force is on the lumber going forward, thus it has to pull the sled underneath. If your planer had rollers on the bottom, then the stopper may need to be on the back. I made this some years ago, and I have used 100's of times for work. My video was not made just for entertainment. It works. I did a 'ctrl+f' search on the first 200+ post comments, and I I found 10 persons pointing out the error. In one post the uploader (understanding the error) said it did not matter because she had stuck with hot glue.
Now I guess you can use the junk wood from Home Depot or Lowe's (if you have those) and just unwarp it yourself! lol. nice
Home Depot or Lowe's ?? Maybe the former, but no connection to yours.😃e get most of our lumber from a lumber yard or a tree. 😂😂
@@IrishChippy that's good. Home Depot and Lowes are the biggest stores in America but are known for having bent and twisted lumber lol
Good idea, to pick junk and make use of it .