Railway modelling. Part of a series of tips, tricks and ideas videos to help you get into or improve your etched brass soldering skills. You can do it!
Colin, in my quest to master PE I've bought various wattage irons. Because I don't do a lot of PE I'm reluctant to buy the adjustable tool that you use. In this scenario what wattage would you suggest? TIA Matthew
For small scales like 009, a 30W iron (like an antex with a decent tip shape) would be fine. 50W for bigger stuff like O gauge and garden railways could go to 75W+. I'd probably go for 50W to cover future uses. This is a good summary too - www.clfinescale.co.uk/copy-of-c-l-product-diagrams
Multi-core solder doesn’t sometimes have flux within it, it always has flux within it. The point of multi-core solder is that the cores contain all the flux you should need for the job. You shouldn’t need to add any external flux when using it.
True although the amount of flux in the multicore does vary and I still feel a tiny dab with the flux pen or a little bit of paste does help, especially with the more modern lead free solders.
The amount of flux should be correct for the amount of solder. The idea is that it delivers the right amount of flux to the work when and where needed. A llt of people put a dollop of solder on the tip of the iron and carry that to the job, by which time the flux has burnt off. The new lead-free solders are another problem. Interesting video though. I look forward to seeing the one where you demonstrate assembling something. I’m a bit worried you may have scared away the already scared with the long tools list.
It’s a balance between making a video only for beginners, and trying to appeal to an improver/experienced amateur crowd too. Have just recorded the second episode ready for Friday.
Thanks for this mate, I'm soon to embark on my first worsley works kit and these videos will be very useful.
No problem 👍
Colin, in my quest to master PE I've bought various wattage irons. Because I don't do a lot of PE I'm reluctant to buy the adjustable tool that you use. In this scenario what wattage would you suggest? TIA Matthew
For small scales like 009, a 30W iron (like an antex with a decent tip shape) would be fine. 50W for bigger stuff like O gauge and garden railways could go to 75W+. I'd probably go for 50W to cover future uses. This is a good summary too - www.clfinescale.co.uk/copy-of-c-l-product-diagrams
the (flush-)brush can be changed maybe with Tops...
Multi-core solder doesn’t sometimes have flux within it, it always has flux within it. The point of multi-core solder is that the cores contain all the flux you should need for the job. You shouldn’t need to add any external flux when using it.
True although the amount of flux in the multicore does vary and I still feel a tiny dab with the flux pen or a little bit of paste does help, especially with the more modern lead free solders.
The amount of flux should be correct for the amount of solder. The idea is that it delivers the right amount of flux to the work when and where needed. A llt of people put a dollop of solder on the tip of the iron and carry that to the job, by which time the flux has burnt off. The new lead-free solders are another problem.
Interesting video though. I look forward to seeing the one where you demonstrate assembling something. I’m a bit worried you may have scared away the already scared with the long tools list.
It’s a balance between making a video only for beginners, and trying to appeal to an improver/experienced amateur crowd too. Have just recorded the second episode ready for Friday.