Tinsel! I guess that explains the red and silver color scheme LOL. Nice work cleaning up the inner works and adding the bridge rectifier. Terrific video Jeremy!
Nice! To any and all 2 axle switchers, both in model form and in real life. They're only capable of pulling at the most 2-3 cars depending on the weight of the load, which is Okay. That's why most 2 axle switchers were used on private industrial spur lines and dock's.
What a great little runner you got with that docksider. The bridge rectifier works great on those DC powered locomotives in order for you to run them on AC powered tracks. Great job Jeremy!
I recall seeing a Lionel set in one of the Christmas catalogs years ago, that switcher locomotive was painted dark blue with a silver smoke box. I think it had yellow lettering for the Santa Fe.
@@TooManyHobbiesJeremy - Lionel also had it in a set back in the 1990s - I think the set was called "The Docksider". The DC powered tank engine was black with a box car and a bobber caboose, I cannot recall the road names.
The hole in the roof of the cab is where the water was filled on the prototype, so now you can authentically spot it under your water tower! You could experiment with adding some weight to the chassis to improve the traction - and apply a Rubber Restorer chemical to the traction tire.
Oh no Well then it is a good candidate for an alternative solution. From high to low: MTH proto 3, Blunami, Electronic E unit from Dallee or an Electronic E unit from Ebay.
Awesome engine just to let kny I did not purchase the Rio grande diesel engine it doesn't have proto sound 2 or 3 so I ordered a sd ace it has proto sound 3 with the dcs system I think I will be safe cause I have the dcs commander thanks again for your input
Glad you liked it too - something different that still looks cool (and runs surprisingly well). Good call on the Rio Grande diesels. Let me know how the SD works out for you.
I just melted the bridge rectifier in my forward only Williams trainmaster On a derailment So I understand I need what you have here but do you have specs of what bridge rectifier to get or what you got? Two pitman can motors first run Williams fm trainmaster Thanks man
I would go heavy and use a 25 amp bridge rectifier (square form factor). The specs aren't really all that important. Bigger is better as far as amps go. Here's a generic part from Mouser.com or just search on any site - even Ebay 625-GBPC2504-E4. It does NOT have to be this exact one. I recommend something like it though. Search for that number in Google and a ton of options show up.
It's a bit different. 25 Amp refers to its rated capacity. The bridge rectifier does not have any safety features. If phyiscal size Is an issue you can certainly go smaller. For our use of the bridge rectifier, bigger is better.
@@TooManyHobbiesJeremy so just like your dc mpc Lionel stuff that you converted. Effectively the Williams one was so it could run ac from factory. ? I hate electricity
Tinsel! I guess that explains the red and silver color scheme LOL. Nice work cleaning up the inner works and adding the bridge rectifier. Terrific video Jeremy!
Thanks Brad, this one turned out nicer than I expected. The axle bushings were a nice surprise as I wouldn't expect them on a starter set loco.
Nice! To any and all 2 axle switchers, both in model form and in real life. They're only capable of pulling at the most 2-3 cars depending on the weight of the load, which is Okay. That's why most 2 axle switchers were used on private industrial spur lines and dock's.
Great point.
Awesome video. I have a couple of MPC era sets that are DC only. I need to do bridge rectifiers on them. Thanks for the info
Glad you liked the video I'll have to install a cheap E-unit in one or two of these just for fun.
Great Video, man that train zooms! 😎
Thanks ❤️ It really impressed me. Must have very low run time
Cute little switcher Jeremy.
Thanks Hunter, it really surprised me with how well it runs.
What a great little runner you got with that docksider. The bridge rectifier works great on those DC powered locomotives in order for you to run them on AC powered tracks. Great job Jeremy!
I got lucky for sure! I'm going to investigate cheap electronic e units and modify one or two of my growing fleet of tiny switchers.
@@TooManyHobbiesJeremy I like the sound of that. That’ll e very interesting to watch!!
I recall seeing a Lionel set in one of the Christmas catalogs years ago, that switcher locomotive was painted dark blue with a silver smoke box. I think it had yellow lettering for the Santa Fe.
Lionel got their monies worth out of this body mold.
@@TooManyHobbiesJeremy - Lionel also had it in a set back in the 1990s - I think the set was called "The Docksider". The DC powered tank engine was black with a box car and a bobber caboose, I cannot recall the road names.
Kickapoo is my guess.
Good looking little switcher Jeremy! I would definitely say try to re-quarter those wheels. That would visually look good if they matched. 👍
That is a good future project for when I get the tools necessary to pull and press on those wheels.
That's a cool little engine. It looks great and runs great. It would look great running on my Edge of Town micro layout.
For sure! I'm thinking of getting a cheapo reversing unit off of ebay for one of these switchers.
The hole in the roof of the cab is where the water was filled on the prototype, so now you can authentically spot it under your water tower! You could experiment with adding some weight to the chassis to improve the traction - and apply a Rubber Restorer chemical to the traction tire.
Very neat, I didn't know that.
This will go well with the stuff you got last week.
Absolutely ❤️
@TooManyHobbiesJeremy By the way the Galloping Goose I had is cooked. Hilarious.
Oh no Well then it is a good candidate for an alternative solution. From high to low: MTH proto 3, Blunami, Electronic E unit from Dallee or an Electronic E unit from Ebay.
@@TooManyHobbiesJeremy Gave it to my friend Helmut for spare parts. He's a repair guy.
Very nice
Thanks Paul - this one is a great runner.
Awesome engine just to let kny I did not purchase the Rio grande diesel engine it doesn't have proto sound 2 or 3 so I ordered a sd ace it has proto sound 3 with the dcs system I think I will be safe cause I have the dcs commander thanks again for your input
Glad you liked it too - something different that still looks cool (and runs surprisingly well).
Good call on the Rio Grande diesels. Let me know how the SD works out for you.
I just melted the bridge rectifier in my forward only Williams trainmaster
On a derailment
So I understand I need what you have here but do you have specs of what bridge rectifier to get or what you got?
Two pitman can motors first run Williams fm trainmaster
Thanks man
I would go heavy and use a 25 amp bridge rectifier (square form factor). The specs aren't really all that important. Bigger is better as far as amps go. Here's a generic part from Mouser.com or just search on any site - even Ebay 625-GBPC2504-E4. It does NOT have to be this exact one. I recommend something like it though. Search for that number in Google and a ton of options show up.
@@TooManyHobbiesJeremy ok so because it’s 25 is that like a fuse that doesn’t trip and then damage motor ?
It's a bit different. 25 Amp refers to its rated capacity. The bridge rectifier does not have any safety features. If phyiscal size Is an issue you can certainly go smaller. For our use of the bridge rectifier, bigger is better.
@@TooManyHobbiesJeremy so just like your dc mpc Lionel stuff that you converted. Effectively the Williams one was so it could run ac from factory. ? I hate electricity
Agreed, until you get really comfortable with it - electricity can be a bear.