What is that piece of rubber "tube" on the lower brake caliper pin? | Honda | Toyota | Lexus | Acura
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 сер 2019
- I have scoured the net with various keywords and nobody has actually stated what the purpose of the rubber sleeve is on the bottom of a caliper pin. I'm not sure all disc brakes have it, but some do and in some cases the rubber-sleeved pin goes at the top. If it helps lubricate, why doesn't the bottom one have it? I've also run upon people with seized pins and it's because the rubber can toughen up or expand and lock in place. Wouldn't it disproportionately stiffen one pin vs the other leading to uneven braking?
#bundysgarage # calipepin #discbrakes
Finally, mine are a bit screwed, so I plan on making new rubber sleeves with some tubing from lowes (I'll dremel wheel the matching grooves in place). Any potential problem with that, assuming I can find the right fit?
The little rubber thing maybe 5 mm thick that goes in a grove at the end of the caliper pin. A couple months ago I refurbed my front brakes and had the same question. The two packs of new pins I bought had the slots for the rubber thing on one pack, but the other had no slot. I ended up not putting any of the rubber things on. It seemed like most of the reason my calipers were seizing up was that rubber thing breaking up and getting stuck in the sliding area. So far I haven't noticed a problem.
It may have to do with squealing but I know these cause problems for some people as they can get very tight and greatly limit movement of the pin. Using a rubber-destructive grease will certainly come into play here.
On toyota/scion vehicles, there are rubber o-ring bushings on some of the sliding pins for the calipers. On the front, only the bottom one I believe has it... On the rear, both do if I remember correctly.
When I did my brakes a few months ago I had big problems with the pins seizing up in the rear. Once I got them un-stuck, cleaned, relubed, replaced the pins and bushings, etc... I noticed there was much more resistance with the bushings on (I am sure by design)... Because the calipers were all seized up, there is more resistance than normal I believe.
Either way, they did slide properly after the fact but not as easily as the front ones. I removed the bushings and tested the operation without and they worked extremely well with little to no resistance at all.
But I figured that bushing had to be there for a reason so I made sure to keep them in and just lubed up as much as I could with sil-glyde (the permatex purple stuff seized them shortly after the first time... Don't use that stuff with any rubber).
My question is, are those bushings absolutely necessary? I plan to check/lube the brakes before winter again and want to hear some opinions on these... If they help the rear brakes function better (less resistance with the pins) should I remove them? When doing my dad's Prius brakes, I noticed his rear brakes had the slot for the bushings, but with no bushings present (nobody ever serviced them before me). So I am guessing it won't cause any damage if Toyota practice this on their other vehicles.
Just looking for some thoughts though... What is the function of these bushings anyway? Noise?
Caliper slide pin rubber at the end articles:
bit.ly/2M460II
bit.ly/2YKKK0o
bit.ly/2M2NIY6
bit.ly/2ZwbO0u
More About BundysGarage:
goo.gl/qv3Wzc
Questions, Comments, Concerns:
bundysgarage@gmail.com
Twitter:
/ bundysgarage
@bundysgarage
On The Web:
www.bundysgarage.com
Music by Randall Kent: As seen on NCIS
• Randall Kent - Going H...
All Rights Reserved 2019
© Copyright 2019
Bundys Garage
All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed in whole or part with out the express written permission. Contact: bundysgarage@gmail.com
DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER
Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. BundysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. BundysGarage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the end user and not BundysGarage nor any of it’s subsidiaries.
Same here. I own 2017 Toyota RAV4 se and I started hearing some noise like break pads were worn as I was driving. i checked the pads and they were fine. Then I did a little research and took the caliper off to check the pins and sure enough the ones with the rubber ring were completely stuck on the front and rear calipers. Breaks have never been replaced as the car only has 40,000 miles still on the original ones. I threw away the bushings, cleaned the pins well and greased them up with Toyota grease and now not only that I don’t have a vibration when breaking but I also feel like the car has slightly more power! Thank you for the video!
I just did my brakes 100,000 miles ago and used the best grease (Prolong) and the pin was totally locked up on the lower caliper pin, the upper pins were fine. I will not be using that little rubber piece on the Lower Pin. I agree with the maker of this video.
I bet its there to get the pin seized so you can get it serviced. All about the moneeey
USE SILICONE GREASE ONLY !!! Petroleum products make the rubber swell
The one with an L on it means it's the Lock Pin, the other is the Guide pin and has a G on it. You'll also note that the caliper has matching L and G marks by the holes for where they go.
I can not tell you how happy I was to find out that rubber piece wasn't needed on lower brake caliper pin, THANK YOU:)
Wow! This video was exactly what I needed to see thank you so much. My pins were stuck because of those swelling up and breaking. I didn’t know if I needed to replace them or not. Thank you.
Thank you for this video so much what's funny is both of my pins with the rubber were seized and one of them even broke inside the caliper when I took them out and the pins without the rubber came out nice and smooth. And because the pins with the rubber seized I also noticed my brake pads we're very uneven one side had almost a full brake pad and the other was side was completely worn out . I never had any spare rubbers so I put my caliper pins back in and I was worried until I saw this video thank you so much.
Update i took the rubber off my 2016 rav4,, much better gas mileage.. and yse faster LOL BUT true.. thanks for the information..
New ones are always included with the new hardware. No reason to not replace them.
Why not just replace the bushing? They're like 5 bucks from the dealer.
Excellent quick video and good tutorial, been doing my own brakes for years, and this video would really help someone new. Again excellent video and thank you for sharing!!!!!
Best vid on this yet.. my Chevy has this and it caused the rear calipers to stop moving after the rear pads had worn like a wedge..
I just removed those damn rubber things also. Always causes the pin to freeze up solid. Glad others are doing the same I don't worry about it now.
My guide pins had same problem and ruined the rubber when force them our of the bracket, and there was no chance to return the pin with rubber because of rusted hole, so I reinstall them with no rubber ring. Right now, I have peace of mind due to your video. Tons of thanks!
This video hit the nail on the head for what I needed to know
Got replacements dust boots & sliding bushings from my GM dealer. Even with lube, those brand new bushings were so tight that the pins wouldn’t move so I dumped ‘em. The car brake good and I haven’t noticed any particular rattle.
I had a rattle after taking my car to the local Honda dealership. They measured my brake pads to see how much life was left in them. Apparently the left rear was dragging and was down to 20% while the rest were at 80%. I wasn't happy with the rattle and a few other items that turned up broken or missing, so I haven't been back. Fast forward a year or so, rattle is still there. Replaced those rear brakes long ago, but the rattle in the front was still there. Over the past weekend, I replaced the front brakes (rotors still good). What I discovered was that the lower bolt which holds the caliper to the carriage pin was missing. Thus, my brake pads were indeed rattling against my rotor the caliper was not correctly aligned with the pad, and the metal backing of the brake pads had removed themselves from the pads (thus creating the occasional grinding noise I heard). My theory is that the dealer measured the pad thickness, and then forgot to replace the bolt when rotating the caliper back into position. This is why you do the simple work yourself!
Thanks for this video!! I was having that exact problem with that slide pin because of that plastic rubber piece took it off and worked perfect!!!! 👍🏻THANKS!
I had a problem with mine pin-rubber and didn't know what to do...it was stuck and was very difficult to remove the pin. when came out the rubber piece was stuck inside the caliper...removed, cleaned and now it is perfect. tks Sr.