Thank you for such a good demonstration on planer blade sharpening. You did say that if there is a nick in the blades it is better to send them away for re-sharpening. One little tip that I suggest is not to try to remove the nick but to sharpen as normal on the Tormek. When fitting the blades back onto the planing machine stagger the nicks very slightly by a small adjustment of the blades. It works on both 2 and 3 blade machines. The mark then created by one blade will then be removed by the pass of the second blade which has a good section of the blade to remove the blemish. Eventually after more sharpening, the nick will automatically be removed by the Tormek thus saving time and having to send the blades away.
I love my Tormek T8! It makes sharpening my wood tools a dream!! SO easy and brilliant design. It actually makes it fast and fun to sharpen AND the results are 100% repeatable every time. Literally seconds to sharpen a bowl gouge and gives a perfect edge you could perform surgery with.
I appreciated seeing the application of honing compound to the wheel. It sounds so simple, but I've never known how heavily to apply it. My practice has been to put a smaller amount on, then massage it into the leather (with the power off). That seems to reduce the amount that wipes off when I begin using it (wastage). But I may have been using too little of the paste.
I got this very costly jig to sharpen chipped planer blades. Now coming to learn the how-to, they actually recommend to send it to a professional sharpening service...
Great information. How long will the TT-50 stone grinder last before needing to replace it? Or should the diamonds on the tool pretty much last for the life of the T-8 machine?
Very informative but with the audio so low I could barely hear you even with mine at max. Looking forward to the turning tool sharpening demo and what you recommend for CBN wheels.
Hi Michael, thank you for the input. It was the first time with our new system and we are looking into all improvements that can be made until the next episode.
When sharpening blades what is the recommended rotation of the stone - rotation away from the blades edge or rotation into the blades edge? Would the same apply to square edge chisels? Thank you for the videos.
Hej Cayman, we recommend to sharpen the blades "into the stone". You need less pressure and the burr is smaller. 😎 Please keep in mind that the honing wheel should turn away from you for honing. Otherwise you have a risk to cut into the leather. Stay sharp & safe! //Tormek
My TT-50 hasn't given me a flat surface ever. I purchased the Tormek T-8 and have had it for at least one year or longer. I thought I finally had the holy grail of sharpening. In that time I have tried using it only a few times and have sharpened ZERO tools... Not one. Chisels are always skewed... Always. The knife holder's plastic handle/USB stop kept slightly unscrewing or screwing itself as I lifted the knife when trying to sharpen. But the main issue is the TT-50. Is it supposed to wobble so much? It always leaves the stone uneven. I can't imagine that users are expected to figure out a fix ourselves.
Hi, Sorry to hear you are dissatisfied. It sounds like something is either wrong with your machine or that some more practise is needed. None the less, I think you should record the wobble of your stone and the other issues you are describing, and send them to support@tormek.se, and we will do our best to help you out. Stay sharp! /Hugo and the Tormek team
Could you give a numeric definition of the depth of a nick that you would consider too deep to reasonably remove with the Tormek jig and a standard stone? I never allow my knives to be anywhere near metal, but I occasionally process softwoods for extexior projects, and hard knots can cause relatively minor nicks unacceptable for my usual work with furniture grade hardwoods. Also, two of my machines have 12" knives. Will I need to shift their position laterally to use the planer knife jig, or is 12" less than the maximum length that can be sharpened from a single positioning? Thank you.
Thanks for a very informative video. Do you only use the coarse setting on the stone or would it make sense to use the stone grater and do the fine setting as well? A 220 grit seems very coarse for a planer blade. Or will the honing wheel take care of this?
Hi Sune, thank you. The SG stone you can change the grit from 220-1000 grit with the stone grader. The thing is if you sharpen a tool the tool will have the same effect as the fine side on the stone grader making the stone finer while you sharpen and therefore making the finish way finer than 220 grit. Also the honing not only help removing the burr but also gives it a nice polishing finish. Stay sharp!
Despite following the exact directions in the manual as well as in this video, I can't seem to get the planer blades sharp. Could there be something I'm missing or do you suggest something else?
I agree with the comment below the audio was very quite compared to normal youtube videos it was up to 20 compared to around 8-10 on other video channels.
Hi Etienne, You should never use the TT-50 on diamond or CBN wheels. I have no experience using it on machines except for the Tormek but using it on a dry grinder sounds dangerous due to a dry grinders high RPM.
I am dying to purchase one online..for my shop in Garissa Kenya...the 500 $ thing ..is it only a jig or the whole sharpening system.. someone please..help me understand..just a struggling carpenter.. Africa South of the Sahara!!!
Hej, youll find all information about the different machines and the accessories that are included on our homepage. tormek.com/en/products/sharpening-machines //Wolfgang
The diamond would the most efficient since it's the hardest. But I think the Blackstone could do a god job as well. I think it could work with the regular SG-stone as well but i might take a bit more time. Stay sharp!
Thank you for doing these sessions. I heard using the grader perpendicular to the stone is not ideal as it might round it over slightly; it was recommended to use it in line with the stone, any comments? Is it better to change the water when switching stones?
Hi Tormek, a question on the truing of my stone (SG-250). I had a small chip missing on the edge/corner of the stone. I decided to start truing to remove it and have a fresh and even stone again, without any chips missing on the corners. When I reached the inside of the stone with the TT-50, where the small chip was missing, the truing tool completely blocked the stone and machine itself and removed an incredible amount of stone: chips were flying everywhere. It took me 60 minutes of truing and I lost a force amount of stone to reach again an "even" stone. This stone keeps chipping of small pieces of stone and I cannot get it right. Is it possible that there is a production error in the stone? It was litterally brandnew and sharpened 2 chisels with it, when I noticed the first small chip was missing on the edge.
try not to leave your stone in the water once you finish sharpening lower the water tray, I bought used Japanese stone for fraction of the price because the old owner used to keep it in the water and the stone kinda deformed, I true it few times (lost about 8mm of diameter) and the stone now works like new
We're sorry to hear that. You might be truing the stone too deep. Try to lower it just 0,5 on the MicroAdjust and do several passes instead. And make sure all the screws are tightened correctly. Please contact support@tormek.se if you still have problem with your TT-50 Truing Tool. Stay sharp! Google Translate: Nous sommes désolés d'entendre cela. Vous pourriez redresser la pierre trop profondément. Essayez de le baisser de seulement 0,5 sur le MicroAdjust et faites plusieurs passages à la place. Et assurez-vous que toutes les vis sont correctement serrées. Veuillez contacter support@tormek.se si vous rencontrez toujours des problèmes avec votre TT-50 Redresse-meule. Stay sharp!
Hej, yes it needs propper adjustments, but after you´ve followed the instructions, it is not difficult. A very good documentation is included. //Wolfgang
Hi there! It sure can, since you set the sharpening depth. Might take some time depending on how much material you'll have to remove and which grinding wheel you use. But the result will be at least as good as new :D Stay sharp!
Thank you for such a good demonstration on planer blade sharpening. You did say that if there is a nick in the blades it is better to send them away for re-sharpening. One little tip that I suggest is not to try to remove the nick but to sharpen as normal on the Tormek. When fitting the blades back onto the planing machine stagger the nicks very slightly by a small adjustment of the blades. It works on both 2 and 3 blade machines. The mark then created by one blade will then be removed by the pass of the second blade which has a good section of the blade to remove the blemish. Eventually after more sharpening, the nick will automatically be removed by the Tormek thus saving time and having to send the blades away.
Thank you! I have learned so much from these sessions.
I respect your honesty about how long the process can be for blades with chips or that are otherwise badly worn.
I love my Tormek T8! It makes sharpening my wood tools a dream!! SO easy and brilliant design. It actually makes it fast and fun to sharpen AND the results are 100% repeatable every time. Literally seconds to sharpen a bowl gouge and gives a perfect edge you could perform surgery with.
I appreciated seeing the application of honing compound to the wheel. It sounds so simple, but I've never known how heavily to apply it. My practice has been to put a smaller amount on, then massage it into the leather (with the power off). That seems to reduce the amount that wipes off when I begin using it (wastage). But I may have been using too little of the paste.
instablaster...
Great job and keep up the help....
Thank you very much for the great feedback. 😉
For those looking for a black permanent marker to help with setting blade angles, Sharpie sells larger markers on Amazon that work great.
I got this very costly jig to sharpen chipped planer blades. Now coming to learn the how-to, they actually recommend to send it to a professional sharpening service...
Thank you just what I need to know
Great information. How long will the TT-50 stone grinder last before needing to replace it? Or should the diamonds on the tool pretty much last for the life of the T-8 machine?
Very informative but with the audio so low I could barely hear you even with mine at max. Looking forward to the turning tool sharpening demo and what you recommend for CBN wheels.
No issues with audio on my pc, although I did turn it up a bit.
Hi Michael, thank you for the input. It was the first time with our new system and we are looking into all improvements that can be made until the next episode.
When sharpening blades what is the recommended rotation of the stone - rotation away from the blades edge or rotation into the blades edge? Would the same apply to square edge chisels? Thank you for the videos.
Hej Cayman,
we recommend to sharpen the blades "into the stone". You need less pressure and the burr is smaller. 😎
Please keep in mind that the honing wheel should turn away from you for honing. Otherwise you have a risk to cut into the leather.
Stay sharp & safe!
//Tormek
My TT-50 hasn't given me a flat surface ever. I purchased the Tormek T-8 and have had it for at least one year or longer.
I thought I finally had the holy grail of sharpening.
In that time I have tried using it only a few times and have sharpened ZERO tools... Not one. Chisels are always skewed... Always.
The knife holder's plastic handle/USB stop kept slightly unscrewing or screwing itself as I lifted the knife when trying to sharpen.
But the main issue is the TT-50. Is it supposed to wobble so much? It always leaves the stone uneven. I can't imagine that users are expected to figure out a fix ourselves.
Hi,
Sorry to hear you are dissatisfied. It sounds like something is either wrong with your machine or that some more practise is needed. None the less, I think you should record the wobble of your stone and the other issues you are describing, and send them to support@tormek.se, and we will do our best to help you out. Stay sharp!
/Hugo and the Tormek team
Could you give a numeric definition of the depth of a nick that you would consider too deep to reasonably remove with the Tormek jig and a standard stone? I never allow my knives to be anywhere near metal, but I occasionally process softwoods for extexior projects, and hard knots can cause relatively minor nicks unacceptable for my usual work with furniture grade hardwoods.
Also, two of my machines have 12" knives. Will I need to shift their position laterally to use the planer knife jig, or is 12" less than the maximum length that can be sharpened from a single positioning? Thank you.
Does the diamond tip on the truing tool ever wear out?
It does, but mostly that take quite some time. if it does, you can get a new one, it is called ADV-D Exchange Diamond Bit for TT-50 :) Stay sharp!
Thanks for a very informative video. Do you only use the coarse setting on the stone or would it make sense to use the stone grater and do the fine setting as well? A 220 grit seems very coarse for a planer blade. Or will the honing wheel take care of this?
Hi Sune, thank you. The SG stone you can change the grit from 220-1000 grit with the stone grader. The thing is if you sharpen a tool the tool will have the same effect as the fine side on the stone grader making the stone finer while you sharpen and therefore making the finish way finer than 220 grit. Also the honing not only help removing the burr but also gives it a nice polishing finish. Stay sharp!
Despite following the exact directions in the manual as well as in this video, I can't seem to get the planer blades sharp. Could there be something I'm missing or do you suggest something else?
Should you true a brand new SG250 out of the box?
Hej Anthony, normally not. It is perfectly true right from the start.
I agree with the comment below the audio was very quite compared to normal youtube videos it was up to 20 compared to around 8-10 on other video channels.
Hi, Thank you for the input. We are looking it up and try to make improvements to the next live session.
Existe aqui no Brasil alguma loja da marca e o valor aproximado
can you use the TT-50 in conjunction with with the BGM100 to true bench grinding wheels?
Hi Etienne, You should never use the TT-50 on diamond or CBN wheels. I have no experience using it on machines except for the Tormek but using it on a dry grinder sounds dangerous due to a dry grinders high RPM.
I am dying to purchase one online..for my shop in Garissa Kenya...the 500 $ thing ..is it only a jig or the whole sharpening system.. someone please..help me understand..just a struggling carpenter.. Africa South of the Sahara!!!
Hej, youll find all information about the different machines and the accessories that are included on our homepage.
tormek.com/en/products/sharpening-machines
//Wolfgang
If i want sharpening a stone-drill (hard metal) which stone should i use, the diamond?
The diamond would the most efficient since it's the hardest. But I think the Blackstone could do a god job as well. I think it could work with the regular SG-stone as well but i might take a bit more time. Stay sharp!
Thank you for doing these sessions.
I heard using the grader perpendicular to the stone is not ideal as it might round it over slightly; it was recommended to use it in line with the stone, any comments?
Is it better to change the water when switching stones?
Hi Tormek, a question on the truing of my stone (SG-250). I had a small chip missing on the edge/corner of the stone. I decided to start truing to remove it and have a fresh and even stone again, without any chips missing on the corners. When I reached the inside of the stone with the TT-50, where the small chip was missing, the truing tool completely blocked the stone and machine itself and removed an incredible amount of stone: chips were flying everywhere. It took me 60 minutes of truing and I lost a force amount of stone to reach again an "even" stone. This stone keeps chipping of small pieces of stone and I cannot get it right. Is it possible that there is a production error in the stone? It was litterally brandnew and sharpened 2 chisels with it, when I noticed the first small chip was missing on the edge.
try not to leave your stone in the water once you finish sharpening lower the water tray, I bought used Japanese stone for fraction of the price because the old owner used to keep it in the water and the stone kinda deformed, I true it few times (lost about 8mm of diameter) and the stone now works like new
Qand je passe le tt50 j’ai de grosse vibration au point d’abimer la pierre, pourtant tout est bien serrer….
We're sorry to hear that. You might be truing the stone too deep. Try to lower it just 0,5 on the MicroAdjust and do several passes instead. And make sure all the screws are tightened correctly. Please contact support@tormek.se if you still have problem with your TT-50 Truing Tool. Stay sharp!
Google Translate:
Nous sommes désolés d'entendre cela. Vous pourriez redresser la pierre trop profondément. Essayez de le baisser de seulement 0,5 sur le MicroAdjust et faites plusieurs passages à la place. Et assurez-vous que toutes les vis sont correctement serrées. Veuillez contacter support@tormek.se si vous rencontrez toujours des problèmes avec votre TT-50 Redresse-meule. Stay sharp!
TheTormerk planer blade add is really confusing
Hej, yes it needs propper adjustments, but after you´ve followed the instructions, it is not difficult. A very good documentation is included.
//Wolfgang
Can the planer jig true up the planer blade? I have a blade that has a low spot in the middle of it and I want true it all up
Hi there! It sure can, since you set the sharpening depth. Might take some time depending on how much material you'll have to remove and which grinding wheel you use. But the result will be at least as good as new :D Stay sharp!
@@TormekSharpening Thank you so much!