Thanks for the interesting video. It's always nice to see something brought back to life, and even better to see that you can still get the repair kit's.
Hi, these pumps came from a simpler time before the nonsense of specific designs for each engine. They were fitted to a whole variety of engines, hence the repair kit availability, cheers
Not seen one of those since my Ford Thames van. My mate had a C11. We rebuilt the clutch times until we ended up with 1/2 cork and 1/2 Ferodo Fixed it tho wished it had a zip on the chain case 👍
40+ years is a pretty good life for that little pump. Nowadays they make them to last for 3 or 4 years and throwaway. Many times repair parts are not even available.
Hi again Andy, that’s a very similar pump to mine on the BMC 1500D…. Original would have been a CAV…? pump? I’ve replaced mine 3 times in 23 years but they are ‘Pattern’ pumps now as original no longer available., I didn’t realise there were repair kits available..? I’ve been paying £50+ at boat chandlers, great informative video! Andrew
Hi, it is bolted to the engine block, the lever is operated by an extra cam lobe on the engine cam shaft. The diaphragm moves up and down, sucking fuel from the tank through a valve. This valve closes when the diaphragm moves up and the pressure opens the other valve to push fuel through the filter and into the injection pump, cheers
I've changed valves very similar to those in a lift pump for a petrol series 2 Land Rover. My new valves didn't like the new type petrol sadly and soon failed again partially dissolved. I'm sure they would have been ok with diesel.
I think there was not supposed to have a seal on the spring side because one side of the diaphragm needs to be at atmospheric pressure. Also if the diaphragm did get a hole it would be easy to see because you would have a drip from the primer lever area
@@TheInfoworks true. But in the case of a leak you don't want any fuel leak going into the sump and thinning the oil. Excellent video by the way. Very thorough on an often overlooked part.
Interesting since I've never rebuilt one. I'm sure you will make a strong fuel system cleaner in a out 2 litres of fuel since the rest us likely dirty too.
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Thanks for the interesting video. It's always nice to see something brought back to life, and even better to see that you can still get the repair kit's.
Hi, these pumps came from a simpler time before the nonsense of specific designs for each engine. They were fitted to a whole variety of engines, hence the repair kit availability, cheers
Great content Andy
A good cleaning and parts availability saves another old machine.
Sam, it starts even better now, cheers
Not seen one of those since my Ford Thames van. My mate had a C11. We rebuilt the clutch times until we ended up with 1/2 cork and 1/2 Ferodo Fixed it tho wished it had a zip on the chain case 👍
My 1800 Leyland Sherpa diesel had one also, now there was a van, 55 mph all day, cheers
Well done Andy 👍
cheers
40+ years is a pretty good life for that little pump.
Nowadays they make them to last for 3 or 4 years and throwaway.
Many times repair parts are not even available.
Kenny, down to a price not up to a standard, cheers
Hi again Andy, that’s a very similar pump to mine on the BMC 1500D…. Original would have been a CAV…? pump? I’ve replaced mine 3 times in 23 years but they are ‘Pattern’ pumps now as original no longer available., I didn’t realise there were repair kits available..? I’ve been paying £50+ at boat chandlers, great informative video! Andrew
Hi, the repair kit was £12, probably good to keep one in stock, agricultural merchants wound be cheaper than chandlers, cheers
I wonder how it works and where it fits on tractor can you make video on that..?
Hi, it is bolted to the engine block, the lever is operated by an extra cam lobe on the engine cam shaft. The diaphragm moves up and down, sucking fuel from the tank through a valve. This valve closes when the diaphragm moves up and the pressure opens the other valve to push fuel through the filter and into the injection pump, cheers
I've changed valves very similar to those in a lift pump for a petrol series 2 Land Rover. My new valves didn't like the new type petrol sadly and soon failed again partially dissolved. I'm sure they would have been ok with diesel.
Hi, yes I try to use E5 in my CRV when ever possible, and definitely in chainsaws, cheers
I have experience one of the valves have loosen up if I don't stamp then to sit in places. Sorry my bad English 🙂
Hi, yes you have to stake them in place to prevent a leak, cheers
I think there was not supposed to have a seal on the spring side because one side of the diaphragm needs to be at atmospheric pressure.
Also if the diaphragm did get a hole it would be easy to see because you would have a drip from the primer lever area
Hi, maybe but there is also crank case pressure, cheers
@@TheInfoworks true. But in the case of a leak you don't want any fuel leak going into the sump and thinning the oil.
Excellent video by the way. Very thorough on an often overlooked part.
@@stephenbricolman1067 That is one of the down falls of a cam driven pump, oil dilution, cheers
what do you think of ' gluing ' the check valves in ? with some sort of loktite product ? thanks for the video.
Hi, I suppose if the valves were not tight, but these had to crush slightly so no need, Thanks for the comment, cheers
Interesting since I've never rebuilt one. I'm sure you will make a strong fuel system cleaner in a out 2 litres of fuel since the rest us likely dirty too.
Oh yes' the build up in tractor tanks is surprising, cheers