Hey Mark, great videos. I recently lowered my car about 2-3 inches on bc coilovers and also purchased toa arms and LCA. I got it aligned how I want it with about -2° camber front and rear and everything feels firm and runs great. I've just heard many stories and seen videos of people's axels breaking or snapping on them and I know it can be very expensive. Any advice on how to bypass anything like that or if I should be worried for the future of my BRZ.
Awesome video mark, I had to change out the toe arm (lateral link) and had a helluva time getting the nut off my balljoint. It just spun freely when I tried to wrench it off w a ratchet or breaker bar. To hold it steady I had to jam a ball joint puller in it and zip it off with an impact. Just went oem on my forester but I think I will go for the spcs next time, do they perform any better? I'm sure the tire shop I'd happy these are adjustable arms instead of those dumb adjuster washers.
so, the SPC rear arm used both the OE eccentric bolt AND the turn-buckle adjustable ends? Is that not overkill? Would you put the OE bolt at "0" and use the turn-buckle to do all of the toe in/out corrections?
Hey Mark, I recently installed spc rear lower control arms and spc toe arm on my frs after watching your awesome videos and followed each step that you did. After installing both I made sure to get an alignment since the car was very "loose" when driving. When I got the car back however everything seemed much better, however when steering side to side the car can still feel a little loose almost like a fish swimming. Any idea what is wrong or is that a normal thing?
That loose feeling is from the new alignment; do you know what your caster, camber, and toe are in the front and the camber and toe for the rear? It's not normal if that's not what you wanted the shop to do, performance alignment for track or drift will be different but a factory style alignment shouldn't feel unstable. Depending on what they set it can upset the balance of the car. For my drift setup I've got -3 degrees of camber, 1/8" total toe (1/16" each side), I've got to find the sheet but I think 5 degrees of caster up front and 0 degrees camber and toe in the rear. It makes the car feel extremely unstable but easy to step out for drifting.
that makes a lot more sense since you put it that way. certainly the car is still fun to drive. just gotta get used to the new feel. but for my specs. the caster was 6.14 on the left and 5.66 on the right. my front cambers 1.5 degrees and my rears at .5 degrees. toe for the front and rears are are nearly to stock at 0 degrees.
The documentation from SPC says you'll get +/- 2 degrees of camber adjustment; you're going to need something like SPL LCA to achieve that kind of God like camber and even then I'm not sure of the range of that kit. May need a couple of additional items also.
For that kind of camber you will need to do upper control arms as well. If you try to do -9 with just toe arms and lowers, you risk your axle popping out the diff. Just keep that in mind if you already did it...
I got a bent PR LCA, and i was just gonna do adjustables, but now I'm gonna add toe arms to the mix. Thanks for the info
That first pull I could already see that thang twerking 😂😂😂
Hey Mark, great videos. I recently lowered my car about 2-3 inches on bc coilovers and also purchased toa arms and LCA. I got it aligned how I want it with about -2° camber front and rear and everything feels firm and runs great. I've just heard many stories and seen videos of people's axels breaking or snapping on them and I know it can be very expensive. Any advice on how to bypass anything like that or if I should be worried for the future of my BRZ.
im no expert but i think the front roll centre/bump steer correction kit helps with that
from whiteline
Awesome video mark, I had to change out the toe arm (lateral link) and had a helluva time getting the nut off my balljoint. It just spun freely when I tried to wrench it off w a ratchet or breaker bar. To hold it steady I had to jam a ball joint puller in it and zip it off with an impact. Just went oem on my forester but I think I will go for the spcs next time, do they perform any better? I'm sure the tire shop I'd happy these are adjustable arms instead of those dumb adjuster washers.
I'd say they're comparable to OEM but the biggest advantage is the adjustability for sure.
so, the SPC rear arm used both the OE eccentric bolt AND the turn-buckle adjustable ends? Is that not overkill? Would you put the OE bolt at "0" and use the turn-buckle to do all of the toe in/out corrections?
Hey dumb question but do you also need the control arm aswell to get high camber ?
If you want to go further negative it does help, it depends on your goals.
U don’t need an alignment shop to do a toe alignment on the rear, you can’t adjust camber so just measure the rear toe and get the wheels straight
Hey Mark, I recently installed spc rear lower control arms and spc toe arm on my frs after watching your awesome videos and followed each step that you did. After installing both I made sure to get an alignment since the car was very "loose" when driving. When I got the car back however everything seemed much better, however when steering side to side the car can still feel a little loose almost like a fish swimming. Any idea what is wrong or is that a normal thing?
That loose feeling is from the new alignment; do you know what your caster, camber, and toe are in the front and the camber and toe for the rear? It's not normal if that's not what you wanted the shop to do, performance alignment for track or drift will be different but a factory style alignment shouldn't feel unstable.
Depending on what they set it can upset the balance of the car. For my drift setup I've got -3 degrees of camber, 1/8" total toe (1/16" each side), I've got to find the sheet but I think 5 degrees of caster up front and 0 degrees camber and toe in the rear. It makes the car feel extremely unstable but easy to step out for drifting.
that makes a lot more sense since you put it that way. certainly the car is still fun to drive. just gotta get used to the new feel. but for my specs. the caster was 6.14 on the left and 5.66 on the right. my front cambers 1.5 degrees and my rears at .5 degrees. toe for the front and rears are are nearly to stock at 0 degrees.
Sounds good, be careful relearning your car if you like to drive aggressively; your suspension is one of the biggest changes you can make.
@@aaronwu3137 You felt that wiggling feeling because the auto shop botched your whole alignment 😂😂😂 I've sure you've learned that by now.
Hey I’m looking at doing -9 degrees of amber in the rears but im wondering if these toe arms will do the job to change my toe once I camber it?
The documentation from SPC says you'll get +/- 2 degrees of camber adjustment; you're going to need something like SPL LCA to achieve that kind of God like camber and even then I'm not sure of the range of that kit. May need a couple of additional items also.
PBM or stance will do the trick if your looking to get lots of camber. For toe arms any brand works
For that kind of camber you will need to do upper control arms as well. If you try to do -9 with just toe arms and lowers, you risk your axle popping out the diff. Just keep that in mind if you already did it...
Can you adjust them when on the car?
Yes, no need to remove.