Dan you have a good layout I am purchasing the Grand Valley also to have a look a little bit like yours with a few modifications I'm sure keep up the good work thanks George
I didn't realize that this was a kit. Still you made it yours with the modifications. Great update and explanation of what you have done. Keep having fun, Chris
@@Tepic That's awesome! I opted to go this way vs. all the bench work associated with traditional layouts. This will be easier to move also if the need ever arises. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment, it's much appreciated!
Thanks for sharing this video of Woodland Scenics' Grand Valley. I hope to build this layout myself one day. I've made a modified version on my computer using Atlas' RTS program as I don't want an industrial spur of crossovers. I know that I'll be limited to four-truck diesels because of the 18" radius curves but I was wondering how well 50' rolling stock worked on your layout as I want to model the 1970's - 1980's era.
Thanks for watching and commenting Donnie! Yes the 8 axle locos are pretty much all you can run on it, but all my cars seem to be fine. My 80’ Santa Fe passenger cars will make it but rub inside the tunnel walls. Good luck with your build, it’s a great project.
@@DansGrandValley I thought I'd do a little research for you that could possibly solve your issues with your current passengers cars. TYCO's Streamline Passenger Cars are all a bit shorter than prototypical lengths. Standard length for a passenger car set is 85-feet, TYCO's cars measured about 72-feet. This was likely done to accommodate operation around the sharp 18"-radius curves commonly offered by TYCO. I listed the Santa Fe passenger cars. Look for these by their product number or description on eBay. 520-D Combinr/Tavern 521-D Coach 522-D Observation
I think you did a really fine job all the way around when it comes to the woodland scenics kit! I hope mine comes out OK when I get to that point. I also bought the Atlas track pack and have actually slightly reworked the track plan to fit the risers better. I basically replaced the 3 inch straight at the far left with a 2 inch taken from the spur area. It was easy to work the extra inch into the spur line and the track fits the risers better in that tunnel area.👍 I do not have any re-railer tracks, but I did order the snap machines for my switches, and a dcc controller that will handle them. Fun times. Hope I can keep it all working and progressing as I've got nothing else to do.
Great videos - just purchased the kit and starting - the videos have pointed out many things to be aware of - one is the paving at the town buildings - you indicate in the "Layout Walk-Around" video that you have discussed in previous videos - I've looked at many of them and can't seem to find where you discuss that issue and how you did the paving. Can you tell me what video (s) you talk about that - Thanks!!
Hi Dennis! Thank you so much for watching my videos, I really appreciate that. I am so happy that you are finding them helpful. In my Update Number 4 video, at about 2:30 in, I discuss paving the industry areas. I had done the area where the gas station sets, and was getting ready to do the other ones on the other side of the tracks. I did the downtown area where the buildings are the exact same way. Here’s a link for the video, and thanks again for watching. Have fun on your new endeavor I think you will enjoy it like I did. ua-cam.com/video/UM_DBfv-3FM/v-deo.html
Well done Dan. I just bought the Grand Valley kit and like you I want to personalize it. One major deviation will be the elimination of the train station. and instead a deep canyon will extend down through an opening in my table. Across the canyon will be a stick built trestle bridge. One question I have is will you be weathering your buildings and rolling stock? I've enjoyed all your videos.
Thomas Tucker wow, that sounds awesome! I’d love to see your progress on that as you go. As for weathering, definitely yes. I picked up some very cool paints and washes. I’ll be going through each building as I get them lighted, and decals/details applied. Thanks for watching Thomas.
Dan, Your creek is lined with lots of small rounded rocks. (ie 16:23) They look too small/too round to cast from the molds. What did you use? They look really good. TIA
Hi Dave. Those are different sizes of Woodland Scenics Talus that you can buy in small packages. I used a combination of course and medium for the creek bed. Woodland Scenics Coarse Buff Talus www.amazon.com/dp/B000BL8JOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_WwqYFbTK25AZA Hope that helps. 👍🏼😁
Dan, Wonderful series of videos!!! I'm a newbie and just ordered this kit. It sounds like great care needs to be given to making the roadbed/track perfect prior to continuing the build. Are there any modifications you'd suggest? (Cork vs Foam, substituting flex track??, other improvements?) TIA
Hi Dave. Welcome, thanks for watching! I actually prefer the foam roadbed. It's quiet and very forgiving to install. Just being certain your risers are all even at the joints will go a long way to ensuring your trains runs smoothly. I'm not big on flex track for a smaller layout like ours, it requires a lot of extra work to get it right. I'd say go with the Atlas GV Track Pack and just watch the joints and you should be fine. Have fun, and thanks again for watching and taking time to comment.
@@DansGrandValley Thanks Dan, I guess the other thing I'll try to do is to keep the track joints offset from the foam roadbed joints and try and keep the roadbed joints offset from the risers so they never all line up all together. This will be a fun winter project. Your build is amazing and extremely helpful!!
@@DansGrandValley Hi Dan! Your videos just keep on rocking it and I/we (speaking for other followers without their approval.....sorry!)) surely appreciate the information that you're sharing with everyone. Question......did you solder your track connections that are within the mountain portions?
@@dunkmcintosh5969 hi Dunk. Thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate it! No I did not solder the track joints inside the tunnels, or anywhere on the layout with the exception of where I connected the feed wires.
Kent Stafford I did make the access doors. I just meant it would have been cool to open it up and use the space for maybe switching or another exit to an additional yard or staging area.
Hi Dan, The manual says to do roads, ballast and landscaping in that order. I'm wondering if you think that's the best sequence? I'm afraid that the landscaping phase may contaminate the roads with excess turf and cement overspray unless they're carefully masked off. (I plan to use foam sheets vs smooth it for all the paved areas). Do you think ballast, landscaping and finally applying the roads/parking lots last would be better? TIA.
Hi Dave, I didn't find any contamination issues with the landscaping. The scenic cement wipes off pretty easily. I always have a little brush handy to brush away any extra vegetation that gets on the roads. The landscaping is an on-going process that you will continue to touch up and add to later on, so having the roads there won't matter. If my roads get dings in them or marks, I just hit them with some new top coat paint, no big deal. I wouldn't bother masking them off. Thanks for the comment my friend.
Hi Thomas. I made the table custom to my height. I’m about 5’ 9” and my table measures 39” from floor to the top of the plywood that the layout sits on. In my video Starting From Scratch, right at the beginning you can see how it was when I started. I have since replaced the small shelf on the front with a wider board and then added the base for the yard over that. I went with 39” so I didn’t have to bend at the waste much. I use a bench stool if I am going to sit at the table. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching, it’s very much appreciated!
Minnesota Outsider most likely no. I got a really good deal on a Walthers Proto 2000 EMD SD45 once and it derailed on the turns. Sadly I had to return it.
Dan you have a good layout I am purchasing the Grand Valley also to have a look a little bit like yours with a few modifications I'm sure keep up the good work thanks George
Thanks George, keep me updated on your progress. Have fun! 👍🏼
I didn't realize that this was a kit. Still you made it yours with the modifications. Great update and explanation of what you have done. Keep having fun, Chris
Thank you Chris!
I'm really enjoying this series of videos. Well done!
Thank you!
@@DansGrandValley I discovered your channel while researching these kits. Not a common thing in the UK.
They are such a good idea.
@@Tepic That's awesome! I opted to go this way vs. all the bench work associated with traditional layouts. This will be easier to move also if the need ever arises. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment, it's much appreciated!
It keeps getting every week! Great job.
Thanks Mike!
Great layout
Thank you Kent!
Looking good Dan
Thanks Damien!
Thanks for sharing this video of Woodland Scenics' Grand Valley. I hope to build this layout myself one day. I've made a modified version on my computer using Atlas' RTS program as I don't want an industrial spur of crossovers. I know that I'll be limited to four-truck diesels because of the 18" radius curves but I was wondering how well 50' rolling stock worked on your layout as I want to model the 1970's - 1980's era.
Thanks for watching and commenting Donnie! Yes the 8 axle locos are pretty much all you can run on it, but all my cars seem to be fine. My 80’ Santa Fe passenger cars will make it but rub inside the tunnel walls. Good luck with your build, it’s a great project.
@@DansGrandValley I thought I'd do a little research for you that could possibly solve your issues with your current passengers cars.
TYCO's Streamline Passenger Cars are all a bit shorter than prototypical lengths. Standard length for a passenger car set is 85-feet, TYCO's cars measured about 72-feet. This was likely done to accommodate operation around the sharp 18"-radius curves commonly offered by TYCO.
I listed the Santa Fe passenger cars. Look for these by their product number or description on eBay.
520-D Combinr/Tavern
521-D Coach
522-D Observation
@@donnieshaffer8807 right on, thanks! I'll check 'em out for sure.
I think you did a really fine job all the way around when it comes to the woodland scenics kit! I hope mine comes out OK when I get to that point.
I also bought the Atlas track pack and have actually slightly reworked the track plan to fit the risers better. I basically replaced the 3 inch straight at the far left with a 2 inch taken from the spur area. It was easy to work the extra inch into the spur line and the track fits the risers better in that tunnel area.👍 I do not have any re-railer tracks, but I did order the snap machines for my switches, and a dcc controller that will handle them. Fun times. Hope I can keep it all working and progressing as I've got nothing else to do.
Thank you. I'd love to see your progress if you get some videos going.
Great videos - just purchased the kit and starting - the videos have pointed out many things to be aware of - one is the paving at the town buildings - you indicate in the "Layout Walk-Around" video that you have discussed in previous videos - I've looked at many of them and can't seem to find where you discuss that issue and how you did the paving. Can you tell me what video (s) you talk about that - Thanks!!
Hi Dennis! Thank you so much for watching my videos, I really appreciate that. I am so happy that you are finding them helpful. In my Update Number 4 video, at about 2:30 in, I discuss paving the industry areas. I had done the area where the gas station sets, and was getting ready to do the other ones on the other side of the tracks. I did the downtown area where the buildings are the exact same way. Here’s a link for the video, and thanks again for watching. Have fun on your new endeavor I think you will enjoy it like I did.
ua-cam.com/video/UM_DBfv-3FM/v-deo.html
The roads need some painted lanes especially by the buildings parking lots too. My only complaint but it’s a great layout
Yes they do. Thanks for watching.
Well done Dan. I just bought the Grand Valley kit and like you I want to personalize it. One major deviation will be the elimination of the train station. and instead a deep canyon will extend down through an opening in my table. Across the canyon will be a stick built trestle bridge. One question I have is will you be weathering your buildings and rolling stock? I've enjoyed all your videos.
Thomas Tucker wow, that sounds awesome! I’d love to see your progress on that as you go. As for weathering, definitely yes. I picked up some very cool paints and washes. I’ll be going through each building as I get them lighted, and decals/details applied. Thanks for watching Thomas.
Dan, Your creek is lined with lots of small rounded rocks. (ie 16:23) They look too small/too round to cast from the molds. What did you use? They look really good. TIA
Hi Dave. Those are different sizes of Woodland Scenics Talus that you can buy in small packages. I used a combination of course and medium for the creek bed.
Woodland Scenics Coarse Buff Talus www.amazon.com/dp/B000BL8JOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_WwqYFbTK25AZA
Hope that helps. 👍🏼😁
Dan, Wonderful series of videos!!! I'm a newbie and just ordered this kit. It sounds like great care needs to be given to making the roadbed/track perfect prior to continuing the build. Are there any modifications you'd suggest? (Cork vs Foam, substituting flex track??, other improvements?) TIA
Hi Dave. Welcome, thanks for watching! I actually prefer the foam roadbed. It's quiet and very forgiving to install. Just being certain your risers are all even at the joints will go a long way to ensuring your trains runs smoothly. I'm not big on flex track for a smaller layout like ours, it requires a lot of extra work to get it right. I'd say go with the Atlas GV Track Pack and just watch the joints and you should be fine. Have fun, and thanks again for watching and taking time to comment.
@@DansGrandValley Thanks Dan, I guess the other thing I'll try to do is to keep the track joints offset from the foam roadbed joints and try and keep the roadbed joints offset from the risers so they never all line up all together. This will be a fun winter project. Your build is amazing and extremely helpful!!
@@cottydry thank you. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions along the way.
@@DansGrandValley Hi Dan! Your videos just keep on rocking it and I/we (speaking for other followers without their approval.....sorry!)) surely appreciate the information that you're sharing with everyone. Question......did you solder your track connections that are within the mountain portions?
@@dunkmcintosh5969 hi Dunk. Thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate it! No I did not solder the track joints inside the tunnels, or anywhere on the layout with the exception of where I connected the feed wires.
How come you did not carve out a area behind the mountains to get to your track
Kent Stafford I did make the access doors. I just meant it would have been cool to open it up and use the space for maybe switching or another exit to an additional yard or staging area.
Oh ok good idea
hi Dan...great overview of your layout...i would love to see comments from you on my videos...thx 4 sharing.. vinny
Hi Dan, The manual says to do roads, ballast and landscaping in that order. I'm wondering if you think that's the best sequence? I'm afraid that the landscaping phase may contaminate the roads with excess turf and cement overspray unless they're carefully masked off. (I plan to use foam sheets vs smooth it for all the paved areas). Do you think ballast, landscaping and finally applying the roads/parking lots last would be better? TIA.
Hi Dave, I didn't find any contamination issues with the landscaping. The scenic cement wipes off pretty easily. I always have a little brush handy to brush away any extra vegetation that gets on the roads. The landscaping is an on-going process that you will continue to touch up and add to later on, so having the roads there won't matter. If my roads get dings in them or marks, I just hit them with some new top coat paint, no big deal. I wouldn't bother masking them off. Thanks for the comment my friend.
I checked your past videos but I couldn’t find any mention of the height of your table. There seems to be different opinions as to the best height.
Hi Thomas. I made the table custom to my height. I’m about 5’ 9” and my table measures 39” from floor to the top of the plywood that the layout sits on. In my video Starting From Scratch, right at the beginning you can see how it was when I started. I have since replaced the small shelf on the front with a wider board and then added the base for the yard over that. I went with 39” so I didn’t have to bend at the waste much. I use a bench stool if I am going to sit at the table. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching, it’s very much appreciated!
Can you run six axle on it like sd 40-2 or es44ac?
Minnesota Outsider most likely no. I got a really good deal on a Walthers Proto 2000 EMD SD45 once and it derailed on the turns. Sadly I had to return it.