This is the first guy that actually speaks any sense about holley carbs everything you say I agree with. I have a fully built 351 Cleveland and It got to the point with my Holley that the factory metering block was crap and was not giving the engine enough fuel when the power valve was open it would just lean out no matter what I did. I went and bought a QFT metering block that has the adjustable power valve channel restrictions and upped the jet engine has never run better after that. I’m event thinking of buying a QFT brawler carb.
Either you have a cam with ridiculous duration and your engine needs to idle at 1200+ RPM to keep running, or you hooked your vacuum gauge up to a timing port if you're only seeing 5" at idle. The number of the power valve is the inches of vacuum at which it opens. If you really had 5" at idle and swapped in an 8.5 PV, it would always be open, adding to your mains. Since you say the default 6.5 wasn't enough, that means you have at least 15" at idle which is in the "good" range for a street motor. Just so everybody knows, that port on the primary metering block is a timing port for vacuum advance and shows a very weak signal at idle. Manifold vacuum ports are always on the throttle plate, and that's where you should connect your gauge. That being said, great videos. You're doing a great service to enthusiasts.
+Clint Gracia The cam in my SBC motor is not too big in gear it's about 950 rpm. The gauge is reading directly off the intak. It's a race carb so there is no vacuum ports on the carb. It's a 260 duration @.50 solid roller cam with over 620 lift @1.6. It's actually coming out over the winter she started to have some overheating problems due to the head gasket leaking. I have another motor with a hydraulic roller that is ready to go in. It should be a little better for the street.
+TPV Productions that's actually a giant cam for a street driven SBC, might be better to run a PV blockoff and bigger mains, and swap to a larger squirter nozzle. Sounds like a fun engine!
Thanks man, I just finish building a 505ci. I live in Co so as you know its starving for air. Had a 770 Holley Avenger, but these stroker motors like at least 1150-1200. I borrowed my buddy's 1000 4150 and just got it on and will be doing some tuning. Thanks to you, you made it very simple. In the past, I've paid people bc I was scared of the tune! Not anymore;)
if youre shifting at 6000rpm, you need 870cfm. if youre shifting at 7000rpm, you need right at 1000cfm at sea level. multiply total cfm by .912 for 5000ft above sea level. you dont buy a larger carb for higher altitude. if anything , it needs to be smaller. if this is a streetable engine and youre at 6000ft elevation, an 870 would be fine, a 770 would give excellent throttle response and drivability under 5000rpm. either way, you do not need an 1150 unless your boat anchor is turning 8000rpm at that elevation. you should keep paying people to tune your stuff, its clear your ignorance is going to burn you.
Your vids is excellent, very well made! I feel sad when I see that they got viewed rarely and rated. Subbed to you back then when you commented to roadkill co-host video. Just excellent
TPV Productions Well, I don't have such car that will require 4-barrel carb. But I do have 1986 car with 1.5L engine and 2-barrel carb. And some of tips in the video can be used to tune it right (like trying different cams for accelerator pump), so thanks. By the way, I love the sound of that Chevy Vortec, unfortunately I can't theoretically make such noise with my 4-banger LOL
juiced71 Yea I was confused myself about the power valves but if the motor likes it she can have it. The new setup with the power valve in the back blocked off works great. The going up 5 jets sizes is false also for my motor ran fat. You just got to tune your pump shot and get the right cam in there. The right cam makes for a world of difference.
Cool vid. I've argued with tons of people about power valve tuning and the stupid holley method. I usually explain it like an adjustable lean cruise afr to full power afr switch. Also been known as an economizer valve cause it leans the mix when closed.
Thanks for the 4150 videos Tyler. It helped me get my bbc idling correctly this weekend with some new Proform bowls. Probably didn't need them, but the sight glass really helped. Your video goes in depth, yet explains a lot of basic carb concepts and links them all together. Great job!!
Sweet I've just got my wideband in ! Your the first to suggest no PV's which may suggest why I'm running rich, I went down 2 jets but still foils the plugs slightly !! I have a primary PV but I'm gonna try blocking that too cheers for the great tip and I'll also pay better attention to my wideband rather than vacuum :)
***** I'm not suggesting no PV it all depend on your motor and what it likes. I have a big cam for the street so its different for my motor than most street cars. TPV Productions Set your idle to around 13-14 AFR first at a respectable idle ( This depends on cam heads setup what RPM your motor likes @ idle) Then get your squirters / accelerator pump and accelerator pump cam timing as close to 11.9-12.5 @ WAT "if your running pump gas" dialed in as close as possible. You should adjust your jets last and when you log your o2 do a pull through a couple of gears and average reading then decid to go up or down on jets.
time 5:55: wouldn't worse hesitation w/ 2.5 PV indicate not enough pump shot? starvation before redline at WOT would indicate PV opening too late (PV number too small), correct? momentary hesitation is pump shot (volume and or timing). higher speed starvation is PV opening too late (PV number too low), starvation at WOT redline is jets too small / PV not flowing enough. starvation above a certain RPM regardless of tune is carb too small.
Hey thanks for adding your setups and results! Mine is about identical to the first setup on the video right now, but I have a summit 750dp and there is no info on it
Seems crazy that your PV would be so far off the Holley Chart...the number is supposed to be set based on the vacuum, I would think maybe your vacuum reading was wrong.
This weekend I drove my car up to T-Mobile store, when I was ready to leave, the RPMs on my car has gone from 600/700 up to about 1600/1800. So I drove her home, the RPMs will not drop below 2500. Got into the garage, looked over everything didn't see any leaks around the carburetor I did notice that my throttle cable to my transmission had broken off at the carburetor. You think this could have been a problem? I get driving it could be, but at idle it still wouldn't come down to guards if I adjust the idle screw or not. Thank you in advance
4 corner idle = 3/4 turn on each corner and that's a start ……… you turned in a lil over 3/4 …. than turned them out like a 2 corner idle 3 flats 1.5 turns ….. might confuse some
Nice info and great angles !! how come you can't make a longer video and go more in depth that's what your all about :) Cons. you said in Part 2 you will explain why you don't believe in using a vacuum gauge to dial in idle or power valves...be good if you elaborated on getting close to exact idle mixes correct & how/why. *Maybe a vid on proper tuning and common issues & fixes (eg lean/rich idles or bad mileage issues) doesn't a power valve rely on correct idle & vacuum to open although I didn't see you talk about this maybe I missed it or maybe because you chose the 8.5 which throws Holleys method out the window (but you didn't confirm if this was why) Keep up the great work
***** I don't really go off vacuum to set PV or idles I go off the O2 reading and throttle response. I do look at the plugs also, but just for timing marks and signs of too much heat or detonation. At the moment I have no PVs in my carb and it runs great. People say you need to go up several sizes on the jets but that turned out not to be true for "my setup" I did however need to adjust the squiters to compensate. Wideband O2 is the only way to tune.
My dad has tried everything, he has a mild bbc 750 vac 2nd, 70 squirts 6.5 pv, and 12.5 to 13.0 vac reading but seems to idle rich, strong fumes and visible out the pipes and plugs are black
good videos, interesting results going to the 8.5 p/v goes against everything I've known but I am going to try the same with a 351C that is giving me headaches How do you have your A/F ratio gauge hooked up. Thanks
This video must (is) old. He knows better than this now. That's not how you adjust power valves. You check your Vac at a 45 mile easy cruise. Let's say it is 8" Vac., now choose a valve 1 or 2" below 8". That would be a 6.5 If it stumbles or hesitates like he said, you got other issues
Holley 4150...idles good..no leaks...put car in gear i got flopped around like im stabbing the fuel and letting off getting jerkered around...any ideas..this carb did work and for no reason its all messed up..car is runable..not deivable
My Barry grant 750 has 4 corner idle mixture but no power valve in the rear. I get a bad hesitation going from primary to secondary. And I don’t have a a/f gauge I do it all on plugs. Plugs look a little fat on the gas ring (100 octane av gas) but it seems to lose power on the top end. It’s a 302 and I think it’s just not getting enough vacuum signal because the carb is too big. What are your thoughts on power valve block off. Will be primarily a track only setup.
The plugs will look fat because also if idle mixture is to rich also. Sounds like It's a lean spike during the transition you probably need a different cam in the accelerator pumps and a larger discharge nozzle in the rear. That's about all I can suggest without actually seeing it.
TPV Productions forgot to mention I change plugs every pass and have little to no idle time on. Them. Not towing to the lanes but usually get good speed going then coast to the lanes. Run at 42 and the lanes are downhill so I just roll to the burnout box.
I tried that you can get it to work fine. I had the best luck with a block off in the rear with a 7 jet spread on mine. I currently have 77s in the front and 84s in the rear.
@@TPVPRO I have a Demon 1000cfm on my 565ci and the rear is already blocked and i just blocked the front too cause I was having hick up issues at cruise. It helped it some for sure, now I'm playing with adjustments to get it better.
According to Holley it will but I have seen different. Even if it opens a little at idle it will not add enrichment until you pull from the main boosters.
2 words that should never go together-light and beer = yellow water. Carb stands are cheap. Otherwise youre working with the unit being supported by the linkage and pumps .
+gordo55551 Unfortunately I need to pull the motor over the winter but I have another motor ready to go in. It's not as strong as that one but still no push over.
This is the first guy that actually speaks any sense about holley carbs everything you say I agree with. I have a fully built 351 Cleveland and It got to the point with my Holley that the factory metering block was crap and was not giving the engine enough fuel when the power valve was open it would just lean out no matter what I did. I went and bought a QFT metering block that has the adjustable power valve channel restrictions and upped the jet engine has never run better after that. I’m event thinking of buying a QFT brawler carb.
I just found this old video of yours. Thanks man this is by far the best video on tuning in a carb
Very informative Mate. Thanks, this will definitely help me tune my Cleveland. All the best from Australia 🇦🇺.
Either you have a cam with ridiculous duration and your engine needs to idle at 1200+ RPM to keep running, or you hooked your vacuum gauge up to a timing port if you're only seeing 5" at idle. The number of the power valve is the inches of vacuum at which it opens. If you really had 5" at idle and swapped in an 8.5 PV, it would always be open, adding to your mains. Since you say the default 6.5 wasn't enough, that means you have at least 15" at idle which is in the "good" range for a street motor. Just so everybody knows, that port on the primary metering block is a timing port for vacuum advance and shows a very weak signal at idle. Manifold vacuum ports are always on the throttle plate, and that's where you should connect your gauge.
That being said, great videos. You're doing a great service to enthusiasts.
+Clint Gracia The cam in my SBC motor is not too big in gear it's about 950 rpm. The gauge is reading directly off the intak. It's a race carb so there is no vacuum ports on the carb. It's a 260 duration @.50 solid roller cam with over 620 lift @1.6. It's actually coming out over the winter she started to have some overheating problems due to the head gasket leaking. I have another motor with a hydraulic roller that is ready to go in. It should be a little better for the street.
+TPV Productions that's actually a giant cam for a street driven SBC, might be better to run a PV blockoff and bigger mains, and swap to a larger squirter nozzle. Sounds like a fun engine!
Thats a HUGE cam for a 350. 5.5" is what I'd expect on a cam that big.
Thanks man, I just finish building a 505ci. I live in Co so as you know its starving for air. Had a 770 Holley Avenger, but these stroker motors like at least 1150-1200. I borrowed my buddy's 1000 4150 and just got it on and will be doing some tuning. Thanks to you, you made it very simple. In the past, I've paid people bc I was scared of the tune! Not anymore;)
if youre shifting at 6000rpm, you need 870cfm. if youre shifting at 7000rpm, you need right at 1000cfm at sea level. multiply total cfm by .912 for 5000ft above sea level.
you dont buy a larger carb for higher altitude. if anything , it needs to be smaller. if this is a streetable engine and youre at 6000ft elevation, an 870 would be fine, a 770 would give excellent throttle response and drivability under 5000rpm. either way, you do not need an 1150 unless your boat anchor is turning 8000rpm at that elevation.
you should keep paying people to tune your stuff, its clear your ignorance is going to burn you.
@@OxBlitzkriegxO wuss
Hands on best tuning video i've seen yet. Fine work.
nice video bro! goodjob at the end showing your tach and adjustments made. appreciate the video. helpes me tune my 850dp. on my 402ci big block chevy.
Be thankful that she allows you the small corner, bro'! :P
Your vids is excellent, very well made! I feel sad when I see that they got viewed rarely and rated. Subbed to you back then when you commented to roadkill co-host video. Just excellent
Thanks for the kind comment, no worries on the views if the video only helps one person get a carb tuned i'm happy with that.
TPV Productions Well, I don't have such car that will require 4-barrel carb. But I do have 1986 car with 1.5L engine and 2-barrel carb. And some of tips in the video can be used to tune it right (like trying different cams for accelerator pump), so thanks. By the way, I love the sound of that Chevy Vortec, unfortunately I can't theoretically make such noise with my 4-banger LOL
juiced71 Yea I was confused myself about the power valves but if the motor likes it she can have it. The new setup with the power valve in the back blocked off works great. The going up 5 jets sizes is false also for my motor ran fat. You just got to tune your pump shot and get the right cam in there. The right cam makes for a world of difference.
Cool vid. I've argued with tons of people about power valve tuning and the stupid holley method. I usually explain it like an adjustable lean cruise afr to full power afr switch. Also been known as an economizer valve cause it leans the mix when closed.
Yes sir that's exactly it.
Good job. I like learning from your gauge and seeing what works for you.
Currently installing an AEM wideband and E85 metering block kit in mine.
Honestly I'd love to use E85 but it's a daily driver and using up double the fuel just ain't as attractive of an idea lol.
Thanks for the 4150 videos Tyler. It helped me get my bbc idling correctly this weekend with some new Proform bowls. Probably didn't need them, but the sight glass really helped. Your video goes in depth, yet explains a lot of basic carb concepts and links them all together. Great job!!
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😊
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That was really great. Great video and a ton of help!
Sweet I've just got my wideband in !
Your the first to suggest no PV's which may suggest why I'm running rich, I went down 2 jets but still foils the plugs slightly !!
I have a primary PV but I'm gonna try blocking that too cheers for the great tip and I'll also pay better attention to my wideband rather than vacuum :)
***** I'm not suggesting no PV it all depend on your motor and what it likes. I have a big cam for the street so its different for my motor than most street cars.
TPV Productions Set your idle to around 13-14 AFR first at a respectable idle ( This depends on cam heads setup what RPM your motor likes @ idle) Then get your squirters / accelerator pump and accelerator pump cam timing as close to 11.9-12.5 @ WAT "if your running pump gas" dialed in as close as possible. You should adjust your jets last and when you log your o2 do a pull through a couple of gears and average reading then decid to go up or down on jets.
Bad ass Tyler ! Thanks for the tips....Coors Light RULES!!!!
Very in depth videos. Two thumbs up
Thanks for the video! I believe I learned something
time 5:55: wouldn't worse hesitation w/ 2.5 PV indicate not enough pump shot? starvation before redline at WOT would indicate PV opening too late (PV number too small), correct? momentary hesitation is pump shot (volume and or timing). higher speed starvation is PV opening too late (PV number too low), starvation at WOT redline is jets too small / PV not flowing enough. starvation above a certain RPM regardless of tune is carb too small.
Hey thanks for adding your setups and results! Mine is about identical to the first setup on the video right now, but I have a summit 750dp and there is no info on it
Again, Thank You! Wish you were my neighbor lol
Nice info on both vids! Thank You! Much better than Holley's. Wish you were here to fine tune the MasterCraft Ski Boat
Seems crazy that your PV would be so far off the Holley Chart...the number is supposed to be set based on the vacuum, I would think maybe your vacuum reading was wrong.
Great job with the carburetor.
thanks
Sounds to me like you got the motor running real sweat 👍
i know it is pretty randomly asking but does anybody know of a good place to stream new movies online?
@Jake Salvador i would suggest flixzone. Just google for it :)
@Amir Terrell Yup, I've been using flixzone for years myself :)
@Amir Terrell Thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :) I appreciate it !
@Jake Salvador no problem :)
When you watch air fuel ratios, what are you using to monitor?
Do you have a dual sensor setup per bank?
This weekend I drove my car up to T-Mobile store, when I was ready to leave, the RPMs on my car has gone from 600/700 up to about 1600/1800. So I drove her home, the RPMs will not drop below 2500. Got into the garage, looked over everything didn't see any leaks around the carburetor I did notice that my throttle cable to my transmission had broken off at the carburetor. You think this could have been a problem? I get driving it could be, but at idle it still wouldn't come down to guards if I adjust the idle screw or not. Thank you in advance
4 corner idle = 3/4 turn on each corner and that's a start ……… you turned in a lil over 3/4 …. than turned them out like a 2 corner idle 3 flats 1.5 turns ….. might confuse some
Would this be similar for all Holley carbs? I have a Truck Avenger 670 carb that needs some adjustment
Nice helpful vid, but really man; Coor's lite has nothing to do with beer!! :D LOL
Nice info and great angles !!
how come you can't make a longer video and go more in depth that's what your all about :)
Cons. you said in Part 2 you will explain why you don't believe in using a vacuum gauge to dial in idle or power valves...be good if you elaborated on getting close to exact idle mixes correct & how/why. *Maybe a vid on proper tuning and common issues & fixes (eg lean/rich idles or bad mileage issues)
doesn't a power valve rely on correct idle & vacuum to open although I didn't see you talk about this maybe I missed it or maybe because you chose the 8.5 which throws Holleys method out the window (but you didn't confirm if this was why)
Keep up the great work
***** I don't really go off vacuum to set PV or idles I go off the O2 reading and throttle response. I do look at the plugs also, but just for timing marks and signs of too much heat or detonation. At the moment I have no PVs in my carb and it runs great. People say you need to go up several sizes on the jets but that turned out not to be true for "my setup" I did however need to adjust the squiters to compensate. Wideband O2 is the only way to tune.
My dad has tried everything, he has a mild bbc 750 vac 2nd, 70 squirts 6.5 pv, and 12.5 to 13.0 vac reading but seems to idle rich, strong fumes and visible out the pipes and plugs are black
whats the trans and rear gear? 7 grand in my truck in 2nd with a th400 and 2:08's is 162 MPH!
5.5" of vacuum is a lot lower than I was expecting. What are your cam specs if you dont mind me asking?
Man corner? Ha i have a whole garage! She doesn't even dare try taking that over.
good videos, interesting results going to the 8.5 p/v
goes against everything I've known but I am going to try the same with a 351C that is giving me headaches
How do you have your A/F ratio gauge hooked up. Thanks
This video must (is) old. He knows better than this now. That's not how you adjust power valves.
You check your Vac at a 45 mile easy cruise.
Let's say it is 8" Vac., now choose a valve 1 or 2" below 8". That would be a 6.5
If it stumbles or hesitates like he said, you got other issues
Great job very informative
I probably missed it in the video but why do you prefer not to tune with a vacuum gauge.
Because its 2021 and there are better tools than a vacuum gauge to tune your motor. That vacuum gauge procedure is older than I am.
Holley 4150...idles good..no leaks...put car in gear i got flopped around like im stabbing the fuel and letting off getting jerkered around...any ideas..this carb did work and for no reason its all messed up..car is runable..not deivable
My Barry grant 750 has 4 corner idle mixture but no power valve in the rear. I get a bad hesitation going from primary to secondary. And I don’t have a a/f gauge I do it all on plugs. Plugs look a little fat on the gas ring (100 octane av gas) but it seems to lose power on the top end. It’s a 302 and I think it’s just not getting enough vacuum signal because the carb is too big. What are your thoughts on power valve block off. Will be primarily a track only setup.
The plugs will look fat because also if idle mixture is to rich also. Sounds like It's a lean spike during the transition you probably need a different cam in the accelerator pumps and a larger discharge nozzle in the rear. That's about all I can suggest without actually seeing it.
TPV Productions thanks. I’ve been really thinking of selling this and getting a 650.
TPV Productions forgot to mention I change plugs every pass and have little to no idle time on. Them. Not towing to the lanes but usually get good speed going then coast to the lanes. Run at 42 and the lanes are downhill so I just roll to the burnout box.
i just liked the Music theme on this video, that's All.. 👍
Nice info! What do you think about using a block off for the power valve on a street car?
I tried that you can get it to work fine. I had the best luck with a block off in the rear with a 7 jet spread on mine. I currently have 77s in the front and 84s in the rear.
@@TPVPRO I have a Demon 1000cfm on my 565ci and the rear is already blocked and i just blocked the front too cause I was having hick up issues at cruise. It helped it some for sure, now I'm playing with adjustments to get it better.
Isn’t your power valve opening at idle once you up it to 8.5?
According to Holley it will but I have seen different. Even if it opens a little at idle it will not add enrichment until you pull from the main boosters.
ua-cam.com/video/SPRQHG-iaVg/v-deo.html
Well it sounds Nice.
great info!
What motor is in this vehicle? It pulls nice and sounds great! 👍👍
355 C.I. SBC
+TPV Productions Very nice. 👍👍
How long does it take to dial in this
Is Coors a sponsor? If not you need to hit them up, lol What should your A/F be at WOT? Thanks for the great video's
Nice vids. Subbed.
When you turned the carb upside down without the squirter installed, you never mentioned the needle underneath the squirter that fell out! 8:39
Where did you place your O2 bung?
About 8 inches from my collectors. I'm running mid length headers so I pulled it back some.
@@TPVPRO Thats what I was thinking. Ive got long tubes on mine. Did you do both hedders or just one side?
2 words that should never go together-light and beer = yellow water. Carb stands are cheap. Otherwise youre working with the unit being supported by the linkage and pumps .
What about transfer port sync...no mention at all??
I'm Ken the vacuum line system 1994 fuel injection the vacuum lines connect to
that truck hauls a$$
+gordo55551 Unfortunately I need to pull the motor over the winter but I have another motor ready to go in. It's not as strong as that one but still no push over.
P.s i have never rebuilt a carb..i have 5 that leak gas from all over
Is that an S10?
Thanks for the info but your beer choice Coors Lite is like making love in a canoe , fning near water .
2 way relationship.
coors better be sending you cases of beer..
To hear my wife let me just breaks my heart no man should have to say those words be single my friends
On your truck)
you not orgenized well loll, strip the carby on a tool box, ??????
Dump the background music
n.m...lol
Daamn dude you might wanna quit smoking...your air exchange sounds horrible...
Your video popped my tire... thanks for nothing
Jk thanks for the help