Yes, but I have questions. 1) Why can't a chain link that you use a breaker on be put back together? Is the rivet/link damaged? 2) I cannot understand what a chain checker does that a ruler couldn't do. How does it work, and why should I need to pay for one? 3) Is the counterpart to Devil's Avocado guaca-holy?
@@KRLinger 1: yes, the rivet is not reusable. There is a big chance that your re-linked chain opens itself and breaks. 2: a ruler is to 'coarse', but you can use precision calipers, you just have to do some math.
@@KRLinger Just get a chain checker, very cheap tool. Also too hard to measure and see the difference between 0.5 and 0.75. With pricey 12 sp ($500 Eagle cassette!) drivetrains you need to change your chain at 0.5.
The B limit adjustment point is fantastic. This made all the difference when changing the size of the front chainring on my cyclocross bike. Many thanks GMBN!
I let the air out of the shock and set the rebound to the slowest setting. Put the chain over largest ring and largest sprocket and add one full link before breaking it.
The first time I measure a chain on a new full sus bike, I use your method. Then I see how it looks looks using Henry's method when on the smallest cog when my rear shock is fully setup again. If it all looks good, going forward I can confidently use Henry's method as it's simpler and less work.
If u have eagle, u must use the red plastic tool to set b tension (or ruler to measure the required distance...10mm I think) as v sensitive to correct/exact b tension. Use the tool, with the bike AT SAG (for full sus)
I also find that you also might need to change the cassette as your new chain will jump on a old cassette and cause you all sorts of problem's and also a good idea to clean your drivetrain ready for your new chain. Nice thanks
You're the Tech/Mech god .... even an experienced mechanic can learn from your videos. I learned to measure a chain the "big cog" way only. Your videos are always comprehensive and filled with useful tips. But #askgmbntech , do you know why 11x (12x, too?) shimano chains often slip on the smallest cog, using quick links? How can i prevent this?
Yes... An idea on B tension setting... Ive been playing with my gear settings and indexing recently and couldnt find much on how the mech should sit...
Great vid as always Henry! Can you please please do one of your fantastic uncut full vids on a lower leg service? I've got the Fox service kit ready and waiting :)
Thanks for the info. Very thorough vid. I just had a new chain and cassette installed in my road bike and since then the chain violently slips during high pressure. Eg. standing whilst climbing a hill. Do you think the chain is too long? Or could it be something else? Many thanks
He left out the quickest way to remove a worn chain, which I use at the shop: Bolt cutters. It's faster and doesn't wear out a more expensive, more precise tool.
I think for any world cup racer, they never repair a chain during a race so they might as well run the tightest chain line. Where as non-racers, having a bit of a longer chain gives us some grace links to fix it and keep riding.
6:13 Does that mean shimano manufactured or shimano compatible? 10:40 KMC recommend putting the link at the top of the loop, cranking the rear brake and sharply applying force to the crank
In this case he meant Shimano branded but we would suggest checking instructions from any manufacture. Regarding the joining link you can use the brake, have the bike on the ground or use your hand on the wheel just has Henry did here. You can even add a little chain lube to help locate the pins 👍
i tried watching the video, got tired and just shorten the chain by eye, it worked okey but kept popping off so i just welded it and now it does not break (ever)
#askgmbnteck. Was wondering if you could give a breakdown of the 13 incline delta how it compares to symilar bikes of same cost, ie with forks, breaking, frame and 1x?cheers neilly
On my road bike I have an 11-40 with a compact 34/50 crank. I have 2 press in links to achieve the length, along with a quick link. Works fine and have never had a single issue with it.
No issues with assembly for me ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
Did you find this video helpful?
Jup :)
Yes, but I have questions.
1) Why can't a chain link that you use a breaker on be put back together? Is the rivet/link damaged?
2) I cannot understand what a chain checker does that a ruler couldn't do. How does it work, and why should I need to pay for one?
3) Is the counterpart to Devil's Avocado guaca-holy?
@@KRLinger 1: yes, the rivet is not reusable. There is a big chance that your re-linked chain opens itself and breaks.
2: a ruler is to 'coarse', but you can use precision calipers, you just have to do some math.
@@blackpete thanks!
@@KRLinger Just get a chain checker, very cheap tool. Also too hard to measure and see the difference between 0.5 and 0.75. With pricey 12 sp ($500 Eagle cassette!) drivetrains you need to change your chain at 0.5.
The B limit adjustment point is fantastic. This made all the difference when changing the size of the front chainring on my cyclocross bike. Many thanks GMBN!
I let the air out of the shock and set the rebound to the slowest setting. Put the chain over largest ring and largest sprocket and add one full link before breaking it.
The first time I measure a chain on a new full sus bike, I use your method. Then I see how it looks looks using Henry's method when on the smallest cog when my rear shock is fully setup again. If it all looks good, going forward I can confidently use Henry's method as it's simpler and less work.
He has the voice of an angel. Not to make things awkward or anything...
Good tip on setting the b-screw. Thanks, Henry!
If u have eagle, u must use the red plastic tool to set b tension (or ruler to measure the required distance...10mm I think) as v sensitive to correct/exact b tension.
Use the tool, with the bike AT SAG (for full sus)
Working on the bike like I do...no gloves yeah!!!!🤟🤟🤟
Henry always get the job done so easy. Nice vid Henry, keep them coming 💎🤙
I also find that you also might need to change the cassette as your new chain will jump on a old cassette and cause you all sorts of problem's and also a good idea to clean your drivetrain ready for your new chain. Nice thanks
5:00. Don't you mean 0.5 not 0.05?
0.05 would mean changing your chain like once a week!!
Another great Henry's Hacks video ...loved it 👍
"This will recoil like a desert eagle" Does Henry play Counter-Strike?
You're the Tech/Mech god .... even an experienced mechanic can learn from your videos. I learned to measure a chain the "big cog" way only. Your videos are always comprehensive and filled with useful tips.
But #askgmbntech , do you know why 11x (12x, too?) shimano chains often slip on the smallest cog, using quick links? How can i prevent this?
Well explained Henry.
Yes...
An idea on B tension setting...
Ive been playing with my gear settings and indexing recently and couldnt find much on how the mech should sit...
Thanks very much Henry 😀
Thanks for this Nice hack
Great vid as always Henry! Can you please please do one of your fantastic uncut full vids on a lower leg service? I've got the Fox service kit ready and waiting :)
Thanks for the info. Very thorough vid. I just had a new chain and cassette installed in my road bike and since then the chain violently slips during high pressure. Eg. standing whilst climbing a hill. Do you think the chain is too long? Or could it be something else?
Many thanks
A good tip would be to clean drivetrain before putting new chain,but i suppose its common sense.
There seems to be only two kinds of riders, those who clean and those that don't.
Smashing it again prof...the vid, not the devils avocados!😁
He left out the quickest way to remove a worn chain, which I use at the shop: Bolt cutters. It's faster and doesn't wear out a more expensive, more precise tool.
I was at snowshoe world cup. Nino and I both run AXS with 38 tooth rings. His chain is as short as possible from what I could tell.
I think for any world cup racer, they never repair a chain during a race so they might as well run the tightest chain line. Where as non-racers, having a bit of a longer chain gives us some grace links to fix it and keep riding.
never knew than quinney was one gmbn
Great information. Thank you
Devil’s Avacados😂😂
What is GMBN's take on cleaning new chains of factory oils?
6:13 Does that mean shimano manufactured or shimano compatible?
10:40 KMC recommend putting the link at the top of the loop, cranking the rear brake and sharply applying force to the crank
In this case he meant Shimano branded but we would suggest checking instructions from any manufacture. Regarding the joining link you can use the brake, have the bike on the ground or use your hand on the wheel just has Henry did here. You can even add a little chain lube to help locate the pins 👍
Any easy way to remove quick links or you need the pliers? Should quick links only be used once?
I never knew the Fleetwood Mac song was about this very subject.
Excellent thanks
i tried watching the video, got tired and just shorten the chain by eye, it worked okey but kept popping off so i just welded it and now it does not break (ever)
Does the same apply for a hardtail?
#askgmbnteck.
Was wondering if you could give a breakdown of the 13 incline delta how it compares to symilar bikes of same cost, ie with forks, breaking, frame and 1x?cheers neilly
What about a hard tail?
Use a sharpie to mark where to brake the chain.
Is he related to Chris Eubank?
Damn those avocados
Not to be the devil's avocado... Oh Henry 😅
How do you lengthen a chain
break it. Then add more links. As long as you're ok with running two quick links (sram) or powerlinks (shimano).
That's the video I'm looking for. My drivetrain is 11 speed but my cassette is 11-50, so the standard 116 links chain won't fit by any means 😅
On my road bike I have an 11-40 with a compact 34/50 crank. I have 2 press in links to achieve the length, along with a quick link. Works fine and have never had a single issue with it.
Buy a new one.
Recoil like a desert eagle 😂😂
No issues with assembly for me ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
Never expected me to watch this but I'm pretty sure I did something wrong embarrassing
Hope that haircut was free!
no no you want more speed more lighter .
just go chainless
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