Cub Cadet Crash (Pt 2) - Tractor and Tree Damaged
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- A local subscriber Paul donated his old Cub Cadet lawn tractor to the channel. Last week I went into the repair thinking it would be a quick fix. The deeper I dug, the more problems were found. In the last video we made a lot of progress but ran out of time and parts. This week I think I have everything I need to finish this thing up.
Part 1: • Cub Cadet Crash (Pt 1)...
Part 2 (this video): • Cub Cadet Crash (Pt 2)...
Tractor Model: Cub Cadet 1525 (13A-221F100)
Engine Model: Kawasaki: FH430V-AS12
Air Filter Cover: MTD KM-11011-7012
Air Shroud: MTD KM-49089-7023
Drag Link LH: MTD 711-1409A
Drive Belt: CMTD 954-0640 www.ebay.com/i...
Drive Pulley: MTD 756-0978B
Ignition Coil: MTD KM-21171-7026
MTD 717-1554 Pinion Gear & 941-0656A Hex Flange Bearing Kit: amzn.to/3ED7bbb
Oil Filer: 49065-0724 REPLACES 49065-7010 amzn.to/3rcft6Y
Oil Fill Tube: MTD KM-59231-7003
Sector Plate Bushing: MTD 941-0475 741-0475 9410475 7410475 www.ebay.com/i...
Spark Plug: Champion RCJ8Y
Steering Gear: MTD 717-1550F amzn.to/3PkMWUN
Wire Harness: MTD KM-26030-7001
I use Harbor Freight Super Heavy Duty Degreaser in my ultrasonic cleaner www.harborfrei...
Visit My Amazon Store:www.amazon.com...
Brass 3/4" NPT Pipe Nipple: amzn.to/48lxrVb
Dremel 225 Flexible Shaft Extension: amzn.to/3PLDKdl
Dremel: amzn.to/3RM0j3d
Fluid Film: amzn.to/451GAiE
JB Weld: amzn.to/48pmhyQ
Permatex Anti Seize: amzn.to/3t1Ml2D
Pipe Floor Fitting: amzn.to/3RxZyuf
Ultrasonic Cleaner: amzn.to/3sVDsHM
If you want to donate to the channel, you can use the UA-cam "Super Thanks" feature or via PayPal: www.paypal.com...
#CubCadet, #Kawasaki #SmallEngineRepair #SmallEngine #DIY #HowTo
13A-221F100, 1525, Anti Seize, Carburetor Clean, Carlisle Wheel, Chewed Wires, Cooling Tin, Cub Cadet 1525, Cub Cadet, Drive Belt Installation, Drive Belt, Drive Pulley, FH430, FH430V-AS12, Fixed, How To, How-To, Ignition Coil, JB Weld, Kawasaki, Mouse Damage, Mouse Nest, Oil Pressure Switch, Repair, Small Engine, Steering Gear, Steering Repair, Steering Sector, Steering, Test, Troubleshooting
Jim, congratulations. You certainly earned that victory lap around the yard. What patience and perseverance!
James. @43:32 a shiny new bolt drops from under the mower, better check it out. 👍🏴
I was at Home Depot today and noted that their Cub Cadet model was $2400. So yeah, $400 or so is a good deal. Now I am inspired to do some serious cleaning and maintenance on my old Murray lawn tractor.
Hi James, You are amazing. You waltz through all these small engine repairs better than anyone I know. I realize that since these engines will only get dirty again, but I would start off by cleaning the engine, (as best I could) then start the repair. Also, shouldn't some of those new parts be painted with Rust- Oleum, or at least primed? That's the way I would work. I realize there's an additional cost involved, but working on clean parts is more enjoyable.
Sick upgrade on steering shaft. Ingenious!!😊
sick...
If you want to refine your steering wheel repair even more, Amazon has a two pack of 3/4 OD by 5/8 ID sleeve bearing for $6.25. It looks like they would drop in and remove almost all of the remaining play. My local ACE hardware and Tractor Supply also stocks similar parts.
I was thinking there had to be something in the McMasterr Carr catalog to take up that slack, too.
I believe that the ignition coil is dipped in laquer that keeps the laminate plates together so they don't come apart Glad you got the parts to fix this mower in running condition again there James condon the generator Man 😊
I used to be loyal to Cub Cadet for lawn tractors 20+ years ago. The last one I bought in 2018 ($2600) was a lemon. Unrepairable fuel injection. Poorly designed bearing surfaces everywhere! Ungreasable deck spindles. This one you fixed shows how cheaply they make them now. I traded in my lemon on a Kubota diesel GR2120, a dream machine. Four times the money but ten times the machine.
The sad thing is this one was built in 2003. They are even worse now.
I really liked the bushing set up you made for the steering shaft. Very ingenious! Overall, a great overhaul!
You are a lawnmower repair genius props on your VICTORIOUS yard laps
This was the most severe service tractor I've ever seen everything was covered in something or needed fixing great job!
Thats an amazing job, the Cub Cadet lives to fight another day, it would have probably ended up in the trash had you have not taken it on, and whilst you carried out a lot of work on it, it is basically a good machine.
Usually, you always clean everything before putting it back together. You didn't do it this time, why not? I always liked it when you did that and made everything look factory new.
James said his pressure washer needed fixing (another vid for us!) and since he has to strip back the engine for the coil change anyway....titivating can then commence...
Been laid up the last 2 weeks post knee surgery, just binge watch your content. Love all your videos.
Really wearing me out by not taking the hood off and power washing this nasty mower lol 😂
Either way brother keep it up!
James: Love your channel. Been a long term subscriber. I watch all your episodes. As an individual who works on my boat engines and electrical generator engine, I have always found that cleaning up the engine in advance helps to identify where leaks emanate from. The cleaner the bilge, the easier to diagnose what is leaking (engine oil, coolant, power steering fluid, raw water, etc). I was surprised you didn't hit the engine especially below the fly wheel with a steam cleaner and PB Blaster to clean it all up before starting. Respectfully, I suggest this since you showed that the dipstick tube was leaking. I notice how often you clean other engines and units at the end of the work which is commendable. Thanks for sharing these videos with all of us.
WD40 would have done a good job cleaning. Was really hoping spray it in degreaser and pressure wash. But the pressure washer had other ideas. Not done with it yet, but want to use it a while before finishing it up.
@@jcondon1I have noticed on your videos that you don't seem to do too much cleaning in advance of teardown. On my machines that see mud and/or grass when mixed with oil irs miserable to work on so a preliminary cleaning is first step in the repair process. It allows proper visual inspection, not to mention just nicer to handle clean parts.
Your camera angles and editing are top knotch. I have picked up alot watching your videos !!
Could you also have, as an extra refinement, slipped one of those other plastic bushes, suitably thinned down on a lathe, with it's flange upward onto the steering shaft to take up the play in the nicely engineered metal pipe bushes??
Terrible design, great repair (and improvement). The engine is excellent, the steering wheel, shaft, gears are certainly not on the same level. Using those plumbing parts was very thoughtful engineering. Good job. Thanks for another invaluable video.
Love your channel and the professional nature and patience you put into each project you do. I’ve learned so much myself and plan on doing my own later next spring hopefully. I. Have a 1957 2 1/2 hp 2 cycle mower I’m going to attempt to restore hasn’t run since 1980. Also have a 8.75hp craftsman I believe is a Briggs motor a yard machine rider given to ma with 17.5hp motor and a 1970 Troy BILT horse tiller to begin with. I live in southern Indiana a mile north of Louisville, Ky. Just wanted to thank you for the channel you do here and what I’ve learned about motors etc. I just got lucky that I have an Echo CS-400 chainsaw it’s been in storage for 4 1/2 years with old fuel in it. To my amazement it started and idled perfectly on first pull. I topped off fuel with fresh, cleaned sharpening chain and adjusted tension on chain and filled bar oil. Literally ran better than when I bought it new. Again thanks to you for everything you teach us here. Your appreciated.
I have a John Deere with the same engine. This mower was given to me because it wasn't running well and the John Deere shop wanted 1800.00 to make repairs.
It ran good at high speed but seem to run only on one cylinder. I miss diagnosed it as a bad coil shower however found out it had overheated due to clogged cooling fins and was leaking compression by one head gasket. I tightened the head bolts it's running great now.
As far as surging I also cleaned the carb but did not stop the surging. After reading the owners manual found out the surging is normal under a no load condition. It does not surge under load.
Hope by cleaning your carb you stop the surging. Mine is a 17hp.
And yet another great video from diagnosing ,tear down ,and completion!!
That was a home run repair in my eyes , doing what you do best , with your determination , patience , repair techniques and the art of editing always good stuff on this channel !!!
Thank you for posting this excellent video. Watching these brings back memories of my father riding a much older Cub Cadet model in the 1960s. I was a kid back then. I am pretty sure it was a Cub Cadet mower. The family did not have it for long. I'm not quite sure what happened to it. One of my uncles also had a riding mower during the same time period, but I'm not sure what brand and model it was. He unfortunately reversed it into his very young son with the mower blades running. The boy survived but had severe leg injuries. I think a lot of the older mowers simply had no safety features at all. A backup camera connected to a computer which could stop the tractor and mower blades if an obstruction was sensed would be so good. I hope modern mowers are safer. I've never had a need for riding mowers -- my yard space is almost entirely planted with shrubs and trees, there is very little grass.
Hi James. I am a DIYer 2nd Class. When I see a 1st class DIYer like you, I realize I have a way to go before I obtain my 1st class certificate. Your overhead lift is so lovely to watch in action. Installing one is a great DIY project. I installed one in the attic above my garage.
Great job James, refurbishing old equipment like that is always a crapshoot, you never know where it stops until you get there. I did a restoration on a 1973 ariens snowblower a couple of years ago, all in it was about $700.00 bucks when I was done, we are talking paint, labels all new bearings,belts, bushings. It looks and operates like a brand new machine!!! Where can you get a 32" 12hp machine for that money
Great video, nice to see your smiling face once in a while 😊
But this isn’t a real cub cadet 🤷♂️ it’s an MTD KNOCKOFF 👍😝
I think your the " Bob Ross" the painter of small engine repair bud..Very enjoyable to watch...
I had a new personal best on a carb job yesterday. My mom's Troy Bilt tiller was acting up due to a carb issue. I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the carb in 14 minutes. It ran perfectly. I'm proud of that one. The main jet was clogged.
Inline filter installed in fuel line today?
Good job on thinking of the cleaning, too! One of the worst things for these engines is that oily grime sticking to everything after a leak. It affects the cooling a lot more than one´d think. Not only on the cylindre fins, but on the whole block. I usually degrease everything with gasoline and brake cleaner/acetone as good aspossible, I basically wash down the whole engine with a brush and gasoline. In combination with a fixed leak, this greatly prevents buildup and therefore temperature regulation issues on the engine.
Man!! To have that much damage, he must have been at full throttle when he took out the apple tree. Hope he was okay :-). Very happy that you got it in great operating and safe condition.
This episode was also definitely worth watching until the end.
very clever fix for the dash....love it! Jim can do miracles with a few couplings, bushings, grommets, JB weld, etc. The cub cadet will probably outlive most of us!!
Glad to see that one has the plenum for cooling air direct to the engine. That makes a LOT of difference in how long one will run. And there's always something else wrong as the deeper you go. God Bless
Love your attention to detail James, but I do think you should consider getting a small metal lathe to make your own bushes and parts. Regards Robert UK
Another job well done. Interesting how you think you only have one or 2 problems, yet the deeper you go the more you find. I agree, it was worth the extra work.
For what I have in my murray, about $400 I'm sure no one would be willing to pay $500 . That's ok, I enjoy it, it does a great job of cutting the grass.
I swapped the original 12.5 horsepower Briggs for a 25 horsepower Kohler V twin. No grass to thick or too tall, it cuts it all. 😊 (40 inch cut)
Grease up your rack & pinion that you replaced as your first job and also grease it up every once in a while . Great video on part 1 & 2 , did a lot of work but as you said it was worth it. Thanks !
Happy mowing with the remade club cadet best save 🎉🎉🎉
Nice to have a tractor for that big yard!
Hopefully the kid will cut it for ya!
The Cub sounds sweet and looks good!
Hi James, Just for your information, you mentioned the thread on the oil pressure switch as a pipe thread it is actually a British Standard Pipe Thread (BSPT) and as such it is a "Tapered Thread" Keep up the excellent work cheers mate.
No it's not. 1/8" NPT
Brilliant solution to the worn dashboard where the steering column passes.
There are many individuals out there who have Cub Cadet specific scrapyards, especially for the older IH style versions.
Nice... The Cadet finally graduated from The Condon Academy. Thanks for sharing. Best to You and Yours.👍🏁
Hello James: The conclusion was not a disapointment. The way you repaired the slop in the steering shaft almost identical to the same repair on my old garden tractor. I never thought of using a bulkhead fitting. Would have saved me several hours of work. The Craftsman old enough it did have a metal dash so that was a bit easier than the JB weld. You should get many years of service from the unit now. You are absolutely correct the time and cost of repair well justified. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to both the zero turn and pressure washer videos you sent out the hook for. You caught me.
He bought a "Zero turn" because his mower had Zero Turn.
And we get to see it next week! Wonder if he hit another tree. 😁
🤣@@KaldekBoch
@@KaldekBochtree killer strikes again..
Lol
How old was this mower? It looked like it was about 30 years old, judging by the styling. That Kawasaki engine is something you don't see every day. I've never even worked on a Kawasaki engine on a mower. Thanks for sharing this one, and giving it a new lease on life.
This one was 20 years old.
I love the thinking out of the box to fix your problem
Good job. Glad you mentioned the cost. I have a John Deere x540 garden tractor and it was 7600 new and snowblower, bagger, and tiller brought the total up to 11k. Only repair I've made is putting a new belt on the PowerFlow for the bagger and that was $47 bucks. Robbery.
thank you for giving me something to watch on this wonderful thursday morning!
Excellent job. I knew these were light duty, but I never dreamed how light. We used to use those threaded fittings to hold a shower rod up at the camp...
You make it so easy , I’ve learned more from you in past few month than any other channel. Thank you!
A rare glimpse of the man himself!
Great video as always. Very innovative fix on the steering column.
You could press a bushing in to that brass fitting the size of the steering shaft.
Excellent job, James. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome repair. I have not priced new machines since I bought my Poulan Pro in 2017. Mine cost $1,300 back then. I need to address my steering wheel slop soon but other than that I have no issues. I do regular maintenance & keep it clean. One good feature of my 19HP B&S motor, it has the oil drain where I put on the clear rubber tube, then twist and pull the drain. This is to ensure draining oil clears the frame. This is the first year I have replaced the blades. I have a jig to sharpen them with a diamond wheel, & a balancer. I don't know how junk gets into the fuel tank, but I have had to remove it twice to empty & clean it out as well as replace the fuel filter.
That was some great thinking on how to fix that poorly designed dash, excellent work bringing that mower back to life James!
The side panels originally had thumb screws for easy removal.
This comment isn't for this particular video but suggestion in general.
When drilling plastics, you should use Brad point drill bits. I've used the ones from fuller twist drill company and stand by those. They drill perfect holes exactly where you need and also cut the outer circles of the holes to get perfect right angles. The praise MAY be for all brands but me buying 10 of one size and using them, they are sharp.
I have Cub with a Koehler Engine in it. Steering is starting to get a little sloppy
Same design. Thanks for help
Jim, I’m sure you probably know this, but putting anti-seize on exposed rusty bolts when trying to take a nut off is SO much better than heat and PB Blaster! If you didn’t know, give it a try!
You lost a bolt at 00:43:30 when you release the brakes. As usual very nice videos, you are a true handyman.
Just watched part 1, spent the last 20 minutes wondering why you didn't remove the side panel, it takes about 15 seconds, glad you finally got there :D.
I just made some observations while watching your videos and comparing them to some larger UA-cam channels that make tons of money and get millions of views. (I know you don't even usually monetize your videos). But it is so apparent the amount of effort you put into filming yourself with these videos. Trying to get the best angle on everything so we can see what you're doing. Some of these bigger channels just setup a tripod and barely even get multiple angles of things. Just wanted you to know that I notice these things, and appreciate it.
Nicely done. Can't wait see you repair the pressure washer.
Thank you for these two videos , they have helped me a lot , I am starting to see why my junk runs the way it does .Maybe now I can get it to work, maybe .......
It will look like new when you get to pressure wash the oily beast! Probably should have just taken both sides and the hood. For the cover you can use early Honda Accord/Civic around 2000 front valance retainer bolts or timing belt cover bolts. They look like same. A small shop lathe would be nice to make special parts for stuff like this. Thanks Jim!!
When I see the condition of the engine I get an irresistible urge to use brake cleaner in excess as needed to get rid of the grime, grease, oil, dirt and crud.
James, time to get a mini lathe, turn a bronze bushing to get perfect clearance on the steering
Repurposed wooden chopsticks work really good for removing emulsion tubes (especially when you have to hammer them out)
Funny how we each look at a problem a different way, I thought I would remove the dash and weld a bracket on the hoop to support a column bearing so to remove the inherent design flaw and give support for the dash as an added Bonus. But then again hind sigh is always 20/20. Nice videos on the Cadet.
I almost did the same. It would be a better repair. May need to at some point.
BTW I got a Chuckle when your son wanted to go for a joy ride, kind of reminded me of the old days. Great Channel@@jcondon1
After the brass nipple installed in steering column you might have been able to use one of the bushings you originally thought about using to take up the rest of the slop.
Time for some Musti1 creative dash/steering repair! (You made Musti proud I am sure!!!)
Fill the oil filter holding it in the inverted position (as you did). Let sit for 30 minutes in that position with some cover (usually the box it came in put on top). The pleats will absorb all the oil it took to fill the filter (if it is of good quality like a Wix). Add a bit more oil that will stay in during attachment and install. If not already, remove the spark plug. Now crank the engine or pull the started cord several times to fill the filter and establish full oil pressure/splash through the engine. Now you can replace the plug and start it.
There were several less than stellar design issues on this one. That steering issue with metal on the drive end and plastic on the steering end, looks much like planned obsolescence. Or, better said; a planned failure of parts. The idea you came up with is probably better than what the factory did. Should last longer for sure.
Just curving that yellow support pipe up to where the steering wheel boss was in the dash would have precluded all these wear/damage problems...
The steering wheel and shaft need to be well anchored because it is a normal reaction to grip the wheel for leverage getting on/geting off/braking/shifting seat....
Very involving but a good watch. Inventive solution on the steering.
Nice fix!! Runs great, & cuts great!!
Good job James, she is pretty good, especially the steering. Not sure which is less tiring a zero turn or this one. Sure less tiring than a walk behind mower. It looks like this one needs a mulch bag since you were blowing leaves back and forth. Probably last you the rest of your life if ya'll bolted the dashboard on very fast, I mean bolt it fast or tightly. Probably will keep the steering from wearing out top and bottom. Your mower deck needs painted to keep rust from making holes in your deck with primer and good paint. Now all's ya'll need to do is hook it up to a generator head and pull it into a fabricated box that has the connections already inside to just drive it in and generate big house power with a 10kw head and have the rpm load following to save on engine wear with an sine wave inverter.
Nice fix James, you should keep it😊
Great part 2! You have a good machine for that big yard! After all the work it really paid off!
Well done James- $450 is pretty good for a decent mower, John Deere parts I understand are quite expensive , at least here in New Zealand they are- here we refer to it "like putting your hand in the beehive - you know you're going to get stung "......... when you are buying JD parts
Lots of hard work James, Thanks for a great video.
Iron pipe threads always require lubricant, usually in the form of teflon tape or pipe dope, automotive is ptfe. The threads engagement do ultimately make the seal, but the lubricant allows a deeper engagement of threads to make the seal.
Usually 3 wraps of teflon tape is plenty good to seal pipe threads.
Always use pipe dope on pipe threads! non-hardening thread sealant containing PTFE plus synthetic fibers
GG on the repairs. It's a shame how Cub Cadet went from a quality brand to plastic garbage.
great job james, good little mower !
As to the broken screw holes in the dash panel, if JB Weld sticks to the plastic (it usually doesnt), id suggest gluing a thin flat washer on both inside and out of each hole, to replace the broken out material.
Another commenter recommended ADEL pipe clamps that are used in experimental aircraft...
they clamp round pipes and allow other fixtures to attach to the clamp with bolts...
GREAT JOB JIM
One extra extended bend in that frame that the plastic dash is (usually) bolted to would have been minimal cost and provided a rigid steel mounting point for a half decent steering column upper bearing (albeit only nylon/plastic?) which could also have considerably slowed down the wear and tear on the steering sector teeth which I suspect were increasingly more misaligned as the hole in the plastic dash rounded out.
Brilliant as always!
that steering wheel fix was amazing
Should always use pipe thread sealant. Loctite 567 might be what was on them. Nice job!!
Great video, very good information. I did notice you using chenel locks on the oil sending unit...I sugest finding a socket made for that purpose it is an S K Tool P/N 4488 it's 1 & 1/16..
Gotta say I would have angrily removed that deck bar pretty quickly if that was me😂🛠
Pipe threads (tapered threads) generally use thread sealant (“pipe” dope or Teflon tape). On motors in vehicles the oil pressure sensor should have thread sealant on it, that’s where the oil pressure will be 20-80 psi.
It will probably be fine just might want to keep an eye on it.
3:33 You should take a page from Mustie1's book and write the date and hours on the end of the oil filter in white paint pen.
"The pump on my pressure washer is not working" That got me laughing!
Very good, thank-you for persisting. As always! Did something fall out onto your driveway at 1:02? And might a piece of copper plumbing pipe take up the steering slack? As always, well done!
Shop air for the initial carb body cleaning. And a 5 gallon bucket with joy and a bristle brush for the airbox
Nice job, James
Could of used rivet nuts for the steering column part to put the bolts in. I don't know if it's the angle the camera but it looks like your deck is uneven. Like the left side of the blades are sitting lower than the right side.
There’s gotta be a properly sized flanged bushing you can drop in between the shaft and the copper fitting, and you won’t need a washer.
1/2 way through, just starting coffee #2!
He has become a Thursday morning tradition (habit)
That whole engine needs a really good degreasing and/or scrubbing before reassembly!