( NOT what you think! ) ECOFLOW Alternator Charger does something VERY SPECIAL! THE OTHER FEATURES!
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- ECOFLOW @EcoFlowTech 800W alternator charger tested and reviewed. It could be a potential game changer for off grid electrical set ups for campervans, micro campers, car camper & overland 4x4s ( but not why you think ) which don’t use traditional electrical systems but power stations. The big issue for power stations in vehicles was the inability to recharge them quickly using the engine that has now been solved with the 800 W alternator charger for the EcoFlow Delta or potentially any power station with an XT60 connector. As well as the alternator are charging the power station, the starter battery could by the power station. The other feature called battery maintenance mode is the potential game changer, previously item such as diesel heaters couldn’t be run off power stations now however they could be run off the vehicle and the power station keeping the starter battery topped up.
EDIT: I mispspoke and phrased sentence wrong . in regards to the 6AWG and fusing. Most of the conversion graphs have 6AWG has an “nearest” equivalent in metric / mm2 sizing. Which would be 16mm, whilst the actual cross-section metric of 6 AWG would be 13.3mm2 and rated less. I incorrectly stated the amp rating for the nearest equivalent in metric and not the physical conversion in metric.
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CORRECTION
There’s one small part of the video I want to clear up as I didn’t convey it very well. The pre-made 5meter cable is 6AWG, as a Brit we don’t use AWG we use mm2. But using a conversion chart for this is normal. 6AWG is the equivalent of the nearest metric size 16mm2 which is rated too 110A, so the 125A fuse used is too large. However, physically 6AWG in metric is 13.3mm2 which is rated even lower and still the 125 amp fuse is too large
Fuse can be 125% load or next nearest (above) fuse size. Fuses are not made in proper increments. That’s why a wire rated at 100amp has a working range of up to 150amp. Unless you use crappy wires.
Also, USA code and EU code is not always in sync
I've watched a few reviews of this product and yours was by far the best. Specifically, you dealt with frying the alternator by pulling too much charge from it - and how to avoid this problem. You also brought up the usefulness of battery maintenance mode, which I wasn't aware of. So thanks.👍
Glad you found my new helpful. I do my best to try and make the reviews of units a bit more technical.
As for frying Alternators, I felt it was an important part to look at as many car have way smaller alternators than my van and this is a pretty larger DCDC charger
@5:03 Ferrite Bead
A ferrite bead is a passive electronic component used to suppress high-frequency noise in electronic circuits.
Behavior and purpose...
Function: Ferrite beads filter high-frequency noise energy over a broad frequency range. They become resistive within their intended frequency range, dissipating noise energy as heat.
Construction: Typically, ferrite beads are small cylindrical or bead-shaped devices made from ferrite material-a ceramic compound containing iron oxide (Fe3O4) and other metal oxides. Their design ensures high impedance to high-frequency noise signals while allowing low-frequency signals to pass through with minimal loss.
Model: A simplified circuit model for a ferrite bead includes resistors, an inductor, and a capacitor. The key components are:
DC Resistance (R_DC): Represents the bead’s resistance at direct current (DC).
Parasitic Capacitance (C_PAR): Associated with the bead.
Bead Inductance (L_BEAD): Determines its behavior.
AC Resistance (R_AC): Reflects core losses.
Response Regions: Ferrite beads exhibit three response regions:
Inductive: Before the crossover frequency, the bead behaves inductively.
Resistive: Desired for noise reduction, this region occurs after the crossover frequency. The bead acts like a resistor, dissipating high-frequency noise as heat.
Capacitive: Beyond the resistive region, the bead becomes capacitive.
Much appreciated for the detailed explanation
This looks like Google translate. This sentence if read literally makes no sense at all. "A simplified circuit model for a ferrite bead includes resistors, an inductor, and a capacitor."
What's actually implied here is that it acts like one of these components depending on a frequency. There is no actual circuit inside, it's just a piece of ferrite shaped like toroid.
Nice job of explaining how it works thanks ✌️
The term you were looking for is ferrite bead for filtering noise on the cable.
@@VelvetHippo-wp6cf much appreciated! I was reasonably confident in its principle but not its name
This is really nice for a simple plug in solution that the ecoflow can control. You can use a much cheaper DC:DC charger or simple boost converter. Select suitable wattage. If you want reverse boost feature, use Anderson connectors for input and output and to boost you reverse them.
I’d says there is different here between a 12-48 DCDC converter/ boost converter / buck boost like you have mentioned. They are definitely cheaper, but coming a converter to this isn’t the best comparison.
Converters like you said are normally fixed voltage output, which is great as a power supply but not the best option for charging a battery / cells directly like this unit does
DCDC chargers like this have a charge profile, this case specifically for charger profile 48V lifepo4 chemistry. Which is why the output is a 40-60V range and the reverse charging is again a 12V ( or 24V ) charger profile for a start battery.
Great information and well explained.
On a note I tend to watch videos at 1 1/2 times speed but not with yours as it’s not necessary.
Looking forward to your 4x4 van series 👍. Cheers Richie.
I do have to my admit, I do talk quite fast at times!
@@MispronouncedAdventures that suits me and no waffle 👍
I'm a security dog handler and i work nights / stay away in rural settings for the most part, i discovered your channel because i bought a mk 8 Transit, love the adventures! All of your early build stuff was super useful to me but the in depth electrical stuff is frankly beyond me so i went with 400w of solar and the Delta max 2000wh. It's honestly ridiculous how good these are for people with no eletrical knowledge to get started and be comfortable, just a shame they dont run diesel heaters! I'm thinking a combination of this and a suitcase generator would keep me afloat "in the field" whatever the time of year. If that had an automatic starter maintenance mode for the diesel heater / fridge that would be amazing, hopefully they add that in the future, i'd buy it today if that was a feature.
Why wouldn’t it run a diesel heater?
@TobyCostaRica None of the powerpacks do that I'm aware of. The start up load it's too high for the 12v outlet and they trip out, it could easily run it if it was already running but that's not much help.
@@LukeK9 My friends run their DIY with tiny power packs. 256-500wh Jackery packs.
@@LukeK9 a quick search of briefcase style diesel heater videos show many connected to small Jackery/Ecoflow units
@TobyCostaRica all of them have 10 amp 12v sockets which isn't enough to run any of the diesel heaters I have seen on start up. If you can get it to work for you then that's great but I know for a fact it tripped mine out, which is a 10 amp 12v socket. The same as the tech specs for the packs you mentioned.
Love to see this hooked up to the house batteries and not the eco flow. Thanks for the videos
What do you mean? Like a standard DCDC charger?
@@MispronouncedAdventures yes sir. I’d be curious how it measures up to you Victron.
There are some days I wish I had an auxiliary dc/dc charger to put in our second starter battery. It may overwhelm the alternator though. Thanks for the vids
I think that it’s quite hard to make it comparison. Because a Victron DCDC charger is for charging a standard leisure battery whilst this is specifically for EcoFlow power station. so neither can do each other’s jobs.
great detail, thanks
Thank you for watching
Great backup system for anyone traveling to more remote areas or as you say those that dont have an extensive system in their vehicle. Once the cost gets closer to a full "simple" system, can see this being a route more take sue to the simple install
For my use, I like it that it could be an an excellent back up system. For a main system error.
Whilst using as the primary is definitely possible, it would be significantly more expensive potentially than a traditional system ( versus the performance ) although portability would be added feature
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yep it’s a great way to have additional security for a trip where having a way to heat / cook or run your fridge while you repair or wait for parts. Just a little cost prohibiting atm, but as technology advances the cost will likely drop
@Rich-n-Cooper yep definitely agree like normal I don’t say something is better than something else. Just two different ways of doing things.
It’s not a collaboration, it’s a sponsorship. There is a difference
I’d disagree in the UA-cam context. Whilst they are different things. Terms used for UA-cam are “collaboration” as they are one-off / single contracts and named as such in contract.
Sponsorship are long term contracts with brands not specific to any one video.
Whilst ive worked with EcoFlow many times they are only one off contracts per videos.
@@MispronouncedAdventures do you get compensation or free products? That’s a sponsorship.
@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk I get paid for them and the products.
still in the context of UA-cam. sponsorship is not the used term, collaborations is. Collab, sponsorship, partnership, in the terms of UA-cam they are just rightly or wrongly it’s interchangeable terms often.
I literally have hundreds of emails wanting to collaborate and collaboration from companies, little sponsorship and partnership.
It’s the terminology used for UA-cam single term contract are normally called collaboration predominantly. Whilst the actual definition maybe be more correct toward “sponsorship”.
Nobody has to watch if they don’t want to! It was stated multiple times at the start that this was a collaboration, so it’s very clear. In my opinion as a viewer, sponsorship would imply that all videos have to be branded.
@@CaliLeaks it’s always on a per video basis as far a viewers are concerned.
Collaborations are amongst equals. Sponsorship is a different transaction.
Two UA-camrs can have a collaboration. Perhaps it’s a loophole in YT policy. But if one gets paid to do a service, there is no colab.
Then again, perhaps my understanding of the English language is not up to the task.
But a corporate / creator arrangement is always one sided contract work.
Awesome idea regarding running a diesel heater from the vehicle battery whilst then maintaining it from the Ecoflow, hadn't thought of that.
Have a D2M which can service my needs for about 5 days off grid without topping up. Now I've installed the alternator charger I didn't really want to run a separate battery just for the diesel heater but this would work perfectly.
It’s definitely a new opening for running a heater on systems using a powerstation at the core. I’ve feedback to ecoflow directly with my collaboration contacts ( they do often ask for feedback ) regarding battery maintenance mode automatically turning on when the engine is off being a great potential feature to support this type of use. ( opposed to the manual turn on it currently is )
Thank You man. I’ve learned so many things with this video. I’m subscribing
Thank you I’m glad you found the video helpful
I’m liking this!👍🏼
I originally ran a 4m long 35mm to feed 2x 12/12/30’s but now the Orion xs50 is out I’m going for that instead.
I’ve planned to get an Ecoflow unit as a backup so this would be a great solution to fast charge on the move!!
So let’s say I take the 35mm to a 2 way fuse box, then a 16mm to the xs50 and this ..run 0.5m for each from fuse to unit.
That’s about 1500w apx draw /125A inc losses.. at 12.8v and both units charging at full power.
Slightly over the 35mm volt drop recommended but not much.
The 35mm is run under the van in conduit btw.
I’m sure I saw really quick in the app you could limit the output from 800w using a slider like for the delta 2?
I know you said it starts up at 100w ..if so that would be great to be able to limit when needed to say 500w and then charge at full when I’ve switched the xs50 off/main battery full or even on tick over for a bit.
Im definitely interested! Nice review..sorry for the long comment, I geek out with this stuff like you 😆
Yes you can limit the output of the alternator charger to well below 800 W which is great for the systems already having DCDC charges in.
35mm2 @ 4 meters should be well within the maximum of the cable. There might be a slight amount of voltage drop was the correct fusing it will be safe.
Love your tech stuff!
Thank you
Alternative: you run an inverter from the alternator, run 230V to the back of the van, and use your regular charger. I use an AC200max that will run a dieselheater without any problem. That is 485W into the powerbank, times 2 if you want to and if your alternator kan handle that.
Thanks for the great info on this channel btw!
@@rick-7197 yes, you can definitely do that and that’s how I’ve been doing my other powerstations in the van. although that only works well if you already have a traditional system ( of which I do) or and a decent size DCDC charger or a direct inverter off the alternator which does effects on efficiencies converting DC up to AC and then back down to DC again.
Yes your AC 200 max will run a heater but then again it has the special 12V 30 amp output socket which is rare amongst power stations
@@MispronouncedAdventures Efficiency of the charger is 521W in and 485W out (so 93%), the efficiency of the inverter is advertised as >90% at >500W (but I haven't measured yet), so around 15-20% goes to waste. DC-DC would have losses too, since powerbanks don't tend to work with 13---V internally, but higher - not to mention the gigantic cables that you'll have to run to the back with these low voltages. But basically, I am OK with 85% efficiency, as actually the whole camper van thing is not very efficient, is it :)
The loading back feature of this EcoFlow is pretty cool I think. I use a separate jump starter if needed. If you add those costs up, this all-in-one EcoFlow isn't that much more expensive and certainly more elegant.
@@rick-7197 have you ever thinking using 1200W load while charging with 500W AC inverter ? Don't forget that all Ecoflow does 100% passthrough of AC when connected to it and does not add power from battery ;) This is why DC-DC is better and this Alternator charger does 2 devices in one small housing ... It is way beyond any other system and to be that small it uses GaN tech ..... www.renesas.com/us/en/applications/automotive/ev-hev-vehicles/12v48v-bi-directional-dcdc-converter-gan-hemt
Works but very inefficient.
Daygreen and Pecron make DC to DC chargers that are far less expensive than this Ecoflow unit.
@@lakorai2 those Dcdc chargers are not going charge a 48V EcoFlow powerstation or have use of the bi-directional use of it. mainly as the 48v port ( EcoFlow battery port ) has communications pins to work with external sources
Sure, everything work for generic options
You can charge the Wave 2 battery. I did it, the connector does fit despite the wire points down. It also required a firmware update.
I had done all the firmware updates I could do at the time . some of my other Brit content creators had the issue of the wave not charging? Where firmware versions did you have and where are you based?
Thanks. Safe travels. All the best. 👍🚐😎
Will do! And Much appreciated for watching!
Alex, I would definitely dial it down to 30amps - you do a lot of miles and already have your house batteries charging - I think 1/3 auxiliary for the total load is about right - Maybe your new van could have a water-cooled 48v alternator that is becoming popular on hybrid cars - in my motorhome, I despair at how thick some wires have to be to things like the inverter.
I said in the video. I don’t intend installing it on this van. my testing purposes I had by normal DCDC charges turned off.
The new van will be 48V leisure system but I’ll be using the regular high output 12V alternator , and a 12-48v 3kW bi-directional DCDC called a Safiery Scotty.
For a better comparison to your Victron system you need to be using an EcoFlow Delta Pro or Power Kit not that little unit. I have a Delta Pro and use it to power a Velit petrol heater, DC fridge/freezer, 2 max fans, an inversion cooktop, toaster, and assorted devices. I realize the Victron system is more capable but it’s not as wide as a gap as you depicted. The main limitation I find with the Delta pro is max 30A DC out via the Anderson power connection. Would have been nice if they would have done 50A out or more. They cost/time savings of these systems is crazy huge over a Victron system though.
@@anyalpine I’m not really trying to compare a traditional system like a Victron based system like mine. I don’t really need think they needs to be compared as they are both very differently types of systems which don’t really need to be compared and the end user use needs are going to different, and so much variation between the possibilities of each system. I think one type of system would be “better” than the other is only going to be relevant to me, someone else would have very different needs which might make the other option better.
I personally prefer a large Victron system for myself and use a powerstation to compliment it. But if I was doing a micro camper or car camper then I’d probably used a 1kwh area powerstation with a charger like this for myself.
There are a few powerstation like the Delta pro and a bluetti AC200max which have 30A 12v output which those are pretty rare. plus my normal use case is more of the 1kw powerstation range and the 2-3kW ones.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I just think it would help some of your viewers to mention that some power stations support this instead of making it sound like none do. The Delta Pro 3 with extra batteries can support up to 12.28kWh capacity which is way more than most van dwellers would need.
Seems those smaller XT cable options are not available yet? I guess you could modify the current cable with any connector, XT90 for Bluetti AC200L. Thanks for heads up.
I don’t think you could modify the current cable to be any connector as the current 800 W version is a 48V charge profile output and cable itself contains positive, negative and communications pins which speak to the power station itself. The 500W XT60 cable appears to be a on thr spec sheet just to be a fixed 40 V output, which is fine because that’s going into other power stations which except up to 40V in there XT60 port, which usually is a power stations MPPT solar controller at the higher voltages. The MPPT itself would be sorting the charge profile for charging the power station native voltage.
@MispronouncedAdventures Thank you for showing the specifications page in the manual. Very helpful.
@dhdoctors I just got off the phone with technical support before watching this video as I had the same question you have. They confirmed it is in development, they are prepping for manufacturing and it is currently in testing. The estimate is that this will be more information in a few months, though they could not confirm this timeline for sure. I asked if this will be a separate cable/adapter or if it will be an entirely separate kit. It sounded like from their response that this will be an entirely separate unit/kit due to the wattage difference and a simple adapter cable will not be available. This is most likely due to the wattage/voltage limit that @MispronouncedAdventures mentioned as well as the lack of communication to other units.
It's disappointing the that XT60 version will be limited to 40V/500W as I have a Bluetti AC200MAX and B300 battery that both could accept the higher 48V-60V. So non-EcoFlow owners only have three options that I can come up with barring a different company coming out with a similar product:
1) Get the Victron Energy Orion 12/24-Volt 20 amp DC-DC Converter. This only goes up to 30V or 450W at 15A, but better than 12V for sure.
2) Get a EcoFlow Delta 2 or Delta 2 Max as the "middle man" battery and use AC charging to charge the non-EcoFlow unit. This is probably the best solution to get 800W out of a vehicle with the least amount of effort, but is not cost efficient to buy a whole other unit just for this purpose (though having a backup isn't a bad idea). You'd have to prioritize speed of charging over cost and charging efficiency as doing from DC to AC to DC has efficiency losses, but might be worth it depending on the situation.
3) I'm experimenting with a cheap DC to DC converter I got from amazon rated up to 1800W (not sure I'd push it that much, especially in the heat) and 90V. However, this a much more DIY solution as there is no case included, though I'm going to 3D print one, reliability is questionable at best and is risky. I have gotten the cheap converter to successfully take my AC200MAX 12V/30A output up to a higher voltage to charge my EB3A at its full 200W which is nice for speed (efficiency isn't the best at lower voltage though), but I haven't tried it on my vehicle battery yet to get 48V-60V. That will be my next test after learning this information.
There has been one forum post of someone trying to hack the EcoFlow XT150 connector and understanding what the data pins do, but I'm not sure if they were successful and that would be another DIY/risky solution even if it did work. Though if there was a way to get the full amperage from a XT150 connector to a different universal connector, I'd be more interested in both the Alternator Charger and the EcoFlow Smart Generator.
Xt60 easily handles 800 watt @14v. A higher battery voltage just takes it easier on the cable.
Great video Alex, WANT ONE! 😊
Cheers guys, thanks for watching
Excellent review but I can't see a use for me, all options already covered. I would be interested in the obd engine monitor. Apologies if already covered, can't find it in your history.
It’s definitely an item which many with the existing traditional system would not need at all. But opens and options for others.
OBD2 is a Konnwei KW206, a great bit of kit
Better design than the Bluetti version, but yes pricey for what it is. Maintenance Charge is a great feature, but why would you power a diesel heater off the starter battery? Seems better to power it with the power station.
You can’t power diesel heater doesn’t power stations and a bring up why the video.
Power stations 12 V DC sockets are rated to 10A or 8A. Start a diesel heater and glow plug usually pull around 11A or more and tip the socket out
You need to use their Delta Pro power station that’s designed for this.
Great video thanks. Why not use the charging mode rather than the maintenance mode for running the 12v accessories?
Clever gadget and will definitely give you more flexibility.
A quick question, what’s the phone holder that you use with the short handle?
Cheers
This phone holder is a “ARNARKOK FWL-02” it’s on my Amazon list. I replaced the original one the thermal camera came with and the handle itself is the handle the thermal camera comes with
@@MispronouncedAdventures cheers Alex
I'm trying to decide on getting the wave 2 or the delta 2 and just running a small room ac. The power bank has so much more utility and idk if the wave 2 would be enough
Wave 2 is probably smaller than most room ac.
Great video ! What did you do when you got the car battery under voltage error to get it to work ?
I normally only got that when the engine was off. When away when the engine was on
Great video. I wish they would have had an option to have the cable lengths switched; long cable from alt charger to EcoFlow and short cable from starter batteries to alt charger. This would lead to better efficiency and less heat loss in the cables. Also would have been nice if they would have gone for a larger cable size so if people needed a longer run.
Normally on 12-12 DCDC’s you have the charger nearer the output battery side. So when an output in fixed like here at 800W. Your losses are from the input side and you output still remains the the best possiblecharge potential.
In this case I agree with you. With the output as 48V, it would be better to shorten the input 12V cable.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I had originally hoped to mount under the passenger seat but of well.
Do you have it connected to CCP1 or CCP2? CCP1 is fused at 60A so it can’t support the full 800W. CCP2 is ignition controlled and turns off after a set amount of time or battery drain. This would prevent the reverse charging modes after the vehicle has been off for awhile or has a drained battery. I spoke with Ford BBAS on the phone and was instructed to connect it directly to the battery but not to bypass the BMS stud on the negative side (can also connect negative to chassis).
This might depend on what models of transit you have. My uk 2018 transit has 3 x 60A posts on the CCP. Which are just a direct 60A fuses on a bus bar ( which in itself is fused to 180A ) which are always a permanent live, I have my 3 post all paralleled.
I did see on 2022 plate transit work has rented it was a completely different style of CCP which only had 2 posts. So that may be similar to what you’ve mentioned.
sounds like a different between the new and older CCP. If you only have 60A live post on the new CCP then you would have to go to the battery but not bypass the BMS as you said.
are you US based? I’d find it hard to speak to anyone at Ford in the uk about that sort of stuff
@@MispronouncedAdventures yep, US based but I think it’s a change with all the newer Transits. I think some are only 60A single post though. Dual post is on Transits with dual starter batteries or other configurations.
Good to hear, hard to find information. its nice feature to add an ignition live pole! Saves hunting out the awkward ignition live wire
Need something like this for my bluetti ac180
I wouldn’t be surprised if we see similar products coming from the other major brands over the next coming months or years
Thanks for the reply Alex, let’s hope so. Loving this year’s Arctic adventure by the way👍🏻
I just bought one of these Eco flow alternator chargers. Will it work on my 2024 Hyundai Santa Fe hybrid? I’m pretty sure you just would hook it up to the positive and negative of the battery terminal in the back of the vehicle? I have seen no videos on putting one of these on a hybrid vehicle.
, I’m not personally familiar with hybrid vehicles. I don’t see why it shouldn’t work. I’m sure I’ve had people in the past using other varieties of DCDC charges on hybrids.
As usual, very thorough. Will you have it installed in the new van?
I’m definitely considering it. it won’t be for my primary electrical system. It’s definitely got its uses.
Great video, I didn't realise this existed and it's just what I needed to charge my Ecoflow Delta Max. Just followed your link to Amazon to order one but your discount code doesn't work. Is it correct?
Glad you found the video you saw just checked into what you said. I think reading the information I was sent. the 10% code is for the EcoFlow sale in general, but that excludes the newly launched alternator charger I’m afraid
@@MispronouncedAdventures OK, thanks for checking. I've ordered one anyway. 👍
This is gonna be a rival for the Clayton unit.
I would still rather have a Clayton unit mind.
But these accept higher solar charge and they are half the price.
Also Claytons units at the moment don't have a proper app. They advertise it as having an app and have done for like 6month now, yet its still not turned up.
@@CalMUK91 I think Clayton will definitely still win in the industrial and fleet use for sure. It’s more of a permanent install.
This unit definitely fills a hole which existed in the idea of a hybrid system with a unit which is portable
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yeh, I was just thinking... the clayton has a much higher 12v output without needing to rig it to your starter battery.
Would you not be reducing the lifespan of the vehicle starter battery while using it for diesel heater etc. by charging it more often via ecoflow feedback, more cycles=less lifespan ? and the starter battery is a lead acid which would have 2-3 years max. of cycles only, with normal use starting and driving. Would it not be more cost effective to buy DC to DC charger and Li battery that will outlast starter batteryx4 ? 100ah of Li and good quality Lead acid starter batteries are more or less the same cost presently.
It’s shouldn’t do, Using it with maintenance mode should mean the “cycle” is not happening. As the starter battery won’t be losing any capacity to run the heater, it’s been supplied by maintenance mode. The effect would More be the diesel heater is being run by a power supply which is the maintenance mode just happens to be battery in the system.
Obviously you could go down this traditional route with a leisure battery and separate DCDC charger but then that takes up a lot of additional space
whats happened to the end of your winter trip? are you finishing it or just leaving it there?
2 more episodes to come in that one. one should be next week. I’m away leading a trip in the Indian Himalaya at the moment so I’ve set up when I’ve got finished to come out while I’m way. In this case something paid collaborations have fixed release dates as well
Can it be connected to the vans leisure battery rather than the vehicles starter battery? My leisure battery is charged when the engine is running. Great video
Yes. Whilst I haven’t tested that, it also refers in the manual it can be connected to a “RV battery”. Which I assume is meaning a habitation / leisure battery.
I assume if you were charging the leisure battery ( via solar, hook up or DCDC from the engines ) and it reached over 13 or 14 V ( EcoFlow turn on voltage ) because it was becoming fully charged it would automatically turn on the EcoFlow charger to charge the power station or the opposite of reverse charging the leisure battery from power station. Whilst I don’t quite know how the automated features would work, you could definitely turn aspects of it on manually via the app.
@@MispronouncedAdventures thank you very much
Great video as always. I currently have a VW T5.1 with a split charger charging my Leisure Battery. Will this still work OK or will my alternator die under too much load
It would very much depend on the capacity of your alternator. If you had a smaller alternator, you could scale back the 800 W to a lower amount.
I have a T3 Syncro van😊 it currently has a 65 amp alternator. What setting would you recommend? I could upgrade to a 90 amp alternator? What setting would then be possible?
Just googled it and it seems a 60 amp alternator can output about 780 W so setting the alternator charger up to receive about 400 W should be fine. I would think!
Hi just bought the 800w charger & the delta2, can the wires run from the battery(in the engine bay) to the inside sleeping area externally ie under the chassis? Cheers for video.
Don’t see why not, as long as you mount and secure the cables to the chassis so you don’t run the risk of snagging. Shouldn’t be an issue running it under the vehicle and then into it else where
Awesome product, but still way over priced. Current price of $440 is way better than the initial $600. Still too easy to DYI (quality components) for $250.
Interesting you say it is overpriced, I was actually surprised at how cheap it was for what it does, since you definitely couldn’t do this DIY this. Or you definitely couldn’t DIY this in this particular context, which is a fast way to use the engine to charge a power station and all the reverse features.
I’m not sure what other 12-48v bi-direction DCDC chargers you could get for $250.
The only missing link is now high current 12v output
A few other brands of powerstations do that, but it’s pretty rare.
all the stated in this particular video if you’re using EcoFlow charger, you could just use the starter battery side and maintenance mode as your high amp 12v output
Common Mode Current
Common mode current runs on the outside of a coax or wire. This current should not be there and is the cause of most radio interference. Any wire can transmit or receive this current, and it is a noticeable problem in amateur radio. It will affect citizens band radio and even stereo speakers. A known solution for common mode current are ferrite beads and toroid cores. They impede the current from traveling along the outside of the wire without affecting the current inside the wire. Stay safe
Great bit of kit looking to put one of these in along side existing vsr, I have a 140amp non smart alternator and the vsr is connected from starter to a 90ah lead acid. Any thoughts on how much the vsr will draw i heard roughly 20a so if i set this up for 500w drawing around 40amps is this enough of a safety buffer for the alternator? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated 👍
You found something else to Pixelate. It's a good skill to master.
Is this going to be upset by a smart alternator? My son has a Transit Custom with a Victron B2B and the smart alternator often fails to get the vehicle battery to a high enough voltage for long enough to switch on the charging function.
Nope, no problem being a regular or smart alternator.
Your sons likely issue with the transit custom and the Victron B2B is the smart alternator is being “too smart” for it own good sometime times. Smart alternators drop down the output and there voltage to about 12v ish ( and not 14v+, which often tricks B2B charges into thinking the engine is turned off ) this happens when the vehicle believes the starter battery is fully charged and as it believes the higher output from the alternator is no longer needed to charge things, no alternator load by being the “smart” ( also called Smart-regen ) , it removes the effort the alternator puts on the engine therefore increasing engine efficiency ( mpg ) which is the whole reason for smart in the first place.
My own transit does this time from time. But 99% of the time it works normally. I normally get this to stop by turning on something like the headlights and heater and heater windscreen to trick the van into thinking it needs to use the alternator again.
Is your son using the transit customer connection point for his auxiliary load/ Victron or directly on the battery?
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yes, exactly that on it being too smart. Doesn't this device use similar logic to infer engine-on from engine battery voltage? It's a great idea to put some demand on it to force the alternator to do some work - never thought of that. He changed the threshold in the B2B to force it on. I didn't know about the customer connection point. Will it make a difference?
Sneakily throwing in news about a new van there. Will there be a taster vid? Will you be going somewhere different in it?
🙂 going to be a whole new build series, AWD transits and planning on about very cold and very hot for it
It is known as a " choke " it suppresses transient spikes .
Cheers
If you have a Leisure Battery can you then connect that device to that instead of the Battery under the Bonnet ?
I haven't got a Clue on any of this
You could but you loose out of the charging off the engine parts
My alternator sits at 15.1v my alternator charger detect 15.1, I set the startup at 15v and nothing,
I set the start level to 13.5 it charges at 60v for 5 second then overloads, so I set it back to 15v and no charging.
Charging at 60V? That’s a very odd. Might be worth speaking to EcoFlow about that if you can’t get it working because it should be relatively simple.
Does the trickle charge actually cut off at some point in your tests? I currently have the charger connected my leisure battery and have not seen it cut off. With the trickle charge it just seems to keep draining the Delta2.
Yes, it’s dials down to 0W. It’s basically using a standard 12v charge profile to safely charged the battery up and then stop. as soon as it sees a drop in voltage, then it starts again.
Maybe you have some other drains on your starter battery?
As I said I’m using it connected to the factory fit leisure battery currently. It’s in the van so was easier to do! Yes there is a small compressor fridge that runs intermittently, but even so more power was drawn from the Delta2 than I expected. I have also found it’s best to ensure the leisure battery is near a full charge before charging the Delta2 on the move.
I’m still impressed with the device, but think it probably works best connected directly to the starter battery.
so i seen you dont even need a alternator... you just need a battery.. so can you hav a battery powered via solar connected to the 800w charger to charge a ecoflow delta and vice versa... thus taking the alternator out of the equation 🤔🤔🤔
Yes you could. Primarily is used from a vehicles alternator / starter bat but attached to the habitation battery instead if in the documentation. It might have been manually turned on although charge profile of a MPPT should make a battery go above 14v and turn the charger in automatically. It might drain if a lot before turning off automatically
6AWG is 13.3mm2 not 16mm2 and is rated to 65 amps. That fuse size is OTT!
You are correct, I’ve realised after the video came out my mistake I phrased sentence wrong . most of the conversion graphs have 6AWG as an “nearest” equivalent in metric / mm2 sizing, whilst the actual cross-section metric would be 13.3mm2 and rated less. I incorrectly stated the amp rating for the nearest equivalent in metric and not the physical conversion in metric.
@@MispronouncedAdventures The point is the fuse is oversized which you correctly identified, you just understated it.
@@TheGalifreyI agree about the fuse size, however it also depends on the allowable voltage drop.
Do you have a problem keeping connected to the app when you are not on wfi?
I had some issue sometimes when I needed to press the button on in the unit to take it up again. other times it’s stayed connected when using maintenance mode
Not sure if it a software issue of a setting issue
I'm never on WiFi because I'm full-time in wild regions. I can connect the Ecoflow using a hotspot and 4G internet, although it's a pain and intermittent, but the Delta 2 connecting to the Ecoflow app via Bluetooth is perfect every time. My car fridge also has Bluetooth, so I'm able to monitor both the power station and fridge remotely via two apps and also change settings.
Do you have disabled BMS on your Ford and it works constant on 14.7 or it drops to 12.6 when it sees battery is full and you are idling or on throttle ? :) Because mine 2.2 TDCI 2016 does it like this or goes on 13.2 when position lights or lights are on :D
Nope, but I use the customer connection point which is designed for customers auxiliary loads. Occasionally once every couple months the smart alternator acts a bit too smart ( smart regen mode ) believing the starter battery fully charged and then dropped its voltage down to 12 V. I then turn on the high beam/heating mirror/fan for a few minutes which tricks the vehicle to thing it needs the alternator again.
@@MispronouncedAdventures aren’t they limited to 60A ?
@L4zYA55 collectively it’s 180A, then each post is off a bus bar inside the seat base with a 60A fuse each. There’s no issue grouping two or three posts together in parallel.
If your vehicle has the single post opposed to 3, you can buy upgrade kit for the parts to turn it into three quite cheaply from Ford. I actually have a video about doing this upgrade on the channel.
@@MispronouncedAdventuresmany new vans in the US do a two post 60A always active and 175A ignition controlled CCP.
@@MispronouncedAdventures there I found also Third party high power mode which you can trigger it by shortening pin 3 on connector under the seat and it disables SRC but I think it just raises voltage to 13.6 like turning lights ON does … which I found that for Ecoflow Alternator charger set to 13V is enough for start charging but with Voltage drop to around 13-13.1 also limits charging to around 650W instead of full 800W… it goes to 800W when you depress gas pedal since this is when BMS raises Voltage to 14.8 …. What I am thinking is connecting negative of Ecoflow under BMS sensor on battery and maybe that way Ford BMS would think that battery is never at 80% of SoC and would feed full 14.8V untill Ecoflow is pulling current ?? :)
Mk8 transit which battery under seat fit to cheers
What do you mean?
where is your link to the infrared cam?
Odd it was missing from the description it should’ve been there. I’ve added it now.
Hi Any update on this charging other brands through xt 60 ?
Since there is no communications cable in a XT60 And it appears from the Manual it’s a fixed output of 40V @ 500W and not a charge profile like the 800W cable with its ecoFlow specific connector with communications pins.
I don’t see any way it could not do it, as a XT60 is pretty “dumb” so That it should work in any power station which has a XT60 connector which can accept 40V. You won’t however have the bi-directional features.
@@MispronouncedAdventures brilliant thanks for the reply just one more question how do you connect the xt60 to the charger
I don't know why they didn't put a fan inside.
They probably deemed it didn’t require an internal fan due to the unit itself being a large enough heat sink. guess it’s also another potential part to fail.
Half an hour test didn’t show it getting significantly hot however. Cost from my understanding there is heat issues with the very similar unit in the EcoFlow powerstream, i’ve not heard similar stories yet about this unit
Nice vblog
Thank you
can anyone tell me if this is possible? I was thinking if I could a three was 100amp boat switch. So no splicing of cables... So position 1 eco-flow to starter battery, centre position is off, position 2 eco-flow to 280ah 12v lithium. Then in my mind.....lol I could flip to position 1 and charge the eco-flow from the alternator as intended. However when I was on 240v shore power flip to position 2 and charge the lithium using the reverse charging function. Or when I was off grid use the reverse charging function to top up the eco-flow from the lithium. Then for the wiring I would have one set of wire from the starter battery to the switch and another from the lithium to the switch with one direct connection from the alternator charger to the switch... or am I just a looney???
Don’t see necessary why not? “urban Vanlife” on UA-cam did they similar with a three-way switch. So his alternator was charging the EcoFlow or his DCDC charges for his battery bank.
@@MispronouncedAdventures thank you so much!
It's actually not easy to install at all. The cable is very stiff with a huge ferrite right next to connector and mounting system is a complete joke for something mounted in a vehicle.
They simply reused PowerStream design completely. Both units are completely identical from outside. Even output cables are fully compatible.
Something that works in a static house isn't applicable in a moving vehicle with constant shaking and vibrations.
I didn’t find the cable any stiffer then normal 16mm2 I used on my other DCDC charger . same for the ferrite I don’t really see why that’s an issue for you. The space is needs below the unit for cables anyway.
As said in the video is uses the same chassis as the powerstream and connectors too, which just make sense if you already have the tooling made. Having opened it up insides are different and components stabilised / ( plotted? Not sure if correct term ) for a vibration rich environment.
Still a simple install for me
Cant speak for the mounting bracket as I didn’t use it.
@@MispronouncedAdventures So you didn't really install it then if you didn't mount it. Hooking two wires is NOT an installation you know. Also you have a big van, while some people (me included) may be install it in a normal vehicle, where space is much more constrained.
Cable IS stiff thanks to horrible braiding they put on top of it for no reason at all. It would've been okay if they would do for each wire separately instead of putting it on two 6 gauge wires at once.
Same for ferrite. Again, in constrained spaces it does make all the difference between fit and no fit and they had to make it even more bulky than it needs to be without any ability to move it a inch or two.
Reusing same design makes sense from their perspective to save money on manufacturing. Not for consumer that wants vehicle ready device, not home device repurposed for vehicle with 0 changes to design to account for obvious differences in requirements for its installation.
Sorry, couldn't handle the video cut every 2 seconds.
@@timallan8535 that’s fine, it’s my editing style and cut down on overall length significantly
7:26 That sight, to me, is just crying out for the twin battery set up. Get rid of what looks like the original battery and fit 2, Either, Yuasa, Exide or Varta 115's with 5 year warranties as they get the largest Amperage output. Are you going to be doing next winter in a new van?...................please let it be another Transit!!!!
It’s just the original Ford brand starter battery, which is probably five or six years old now. Still works fine.
Next van will be a AWD transit and if I’ve got it built in time to the Arctic yes
@@MispronouncedAdventures Would be great to see that build now you have already done a build and know what you want and need. Better get cracking on then, only 6mths before you need to leave lol
Ferrite chock blocks ac.
Cheers
Pecron and Daygreen make dc to dc chargers that run cooler and are far kess expensive.
Not really relevant though here is it? Those are just generic Dcdc converter that don’t have much to do they for this context. Percon and Daygreen dc to dc are not going charge a EcoFlow unit in the same way ( or at all ) or integration as the EcoFlow charger made for there own power station.
Sure for a generic 48V charger
The ole game changer routine?
I say in video I don’t like using that particular phrase but says why I do As the unit has a feature which allows you do something which couldn’t yet be done with vehicles which use a power station as it’s primary electrical system.
And it literally opens up a whole new set of possibilities.
And it’s an easy phrase to get more views
I have a ford transit. Where do I connect to the ccp port? The top two bolts or the bottom two bolts?
What model and year of van do you have? CCP has changed on some. I use all three bolts
Is there any kind of parasitic draw from this product? Maybe a more accessible power disconnect would be something to consider when not in use.
As you suggest I am looking to change to a 100amp fuse but can only find 32v versions and I note the 125amp that comes with unit is 65v. Will the 100amp 32v fuse be ok? thanks
32v will be fine as the voltage is only 12V on that side
Buck convert or🤔
Not the best comparison. Buck converts are normally a fixed voltage out. Great for using a power supply for something but not great for direct charging a batteries/cells like in this case
this is pretty much a neatly packaged unit and tidy software and app. It’s pretty much a 12-48v bi-directional DCDC charger which as the 48 V lithium charge profile on the output and a 12 or 24 V charge profile for start batteries on the input.
😊😊😊😊😊😊
Cheers
😉😉👍👍@@MispronouncedAdventures