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Sailor here with a 38 year old boat so I’m always either fixing something or improving something. Your demonstrations are very good. It’s really helpful to have professional advice. Thanks!
Thanks for the great videos. I will be building a tiny travel trailer and fiberglassing it with epoxy. Right now I'm putting together a tiny tiny travel trailer (1/2 scale) for fiberglassing practice. This video covered all of the basic techniques that I need short of patching screw holes .. and turns out you had a video for that too! So - thanks a bunch!
I've said it before and I'll say it again. These videos would've been extremely valuable when I was doing my own project. I appreciate them because I know how long this takes, between prep, mixing, laminating and so forth. Something I learned as far as glass forming to a radius is that 1708 forms to an inside radius, like a stringer to hull, quite well. But on an outside radius like a cap to a hull, if I flipped the 1708 over so the mat side was up, it actually took to the bend much like mat side down on an inside radius.
A new sailboat owner working on a 50 year old monohull. At 60 I am learning how to swim sail and a DYI drive project. Thanks for sharing your expertise
The time and effort put into your tutorials Joe is astounding. So much useful information delivered in a clear and logical manner. As a DIY builder these are like being an apprentice in your shop. Be careful not to burn yourself out by too rapid a production schedule. There's lots to digest over the days/weeks after each of your posts. Many thanks from Nova Scotia! 👍👍
Thanks so much for watching all of the way from Nova Scotia! Glad you are enjoying the videos. I appreciate your thoughts, we are trying to get alot out to you guys now because our charter fishing season will be starting very soon. I understand what you are saying though and we are working on finding a good work balance. Thanks again for your concern!
Capt Joe and Fish bump family wanted to say marine plywood for small boat and really existed about the upcoming polyester video appreciate y'all sharing family legacy Congratulations on your patron moving forward!
Great job, Capt. Joe. Sure it was long, but it was packed with info and this is the most complete start-to-finish tutorial I've seen of wrapping a stringer to a transom. To see all of this, you would have to watch twice as much video from other sources and not get the complete picture in one video and you'd see a lot. of senseless chatter. One thing that might be helpful for the channel is to highlight previous videos more by using the tools to have links Pop up during the edit. It really helps the algorithm to have viewers view multiple videos of yours in a row.
Hi, bass fisherman from Canada, I m restoring a 28 year old hyda-sport bass boat that has fiberglass foam filled stringers, plywood transom, plywood floors and foam core in the bottom of the hull, every inch of foam and plywood is water logged, the floor was bolted to the stringers with screws that were not sealed and water got in, the fiberglass work on this boat is terrible, huge air pockets in the fiberglass, very bad tabbing of the stringers, sloppy sloppy friday afternoon work. Thanks for sharing your knowlege and taking the time to film, keep it up.
Glad to help! Yes, it is shocking how bad some of the glass work is in some production boats! I am sure it will be better than new when you are done. Thanks for watching all the way from Canada 🍁!
Thank you, your videos have helped and guided me through my project. I am filling in an out drive hole in a transom and adding knee supports to the inside for a outboard bracket conversion. I am experienced in autobody repair but never did much with fiberglass.
Your videos are great! I’m an automotive painter and body tech. (Currently chasing hail storms doing paint less dent repair). But I love working on boats.
Thanks so much! I have a Buddy that does that kind of work in our area, and that takes alot of skill! I can't believe how good you guys are at making dents disappear. I really appreciate you watching and commenting, and best of luck with your boat projects!
Thank you so much for this video. I have a lot of this exact process to do and seeing how to prep with dry fitting before you laminate was extremely helpful. Answered a lot of questions I had. You asked what kinda of boat owners watch. We have a 93 Sea Ray 330 EC. This is our first boat beyond a regular ski boat. Needed lots of mechanical work so I learned tons on how everything work. Boat is 100% now. Next up. Building a stitch and glue 15' 50's style runabout. Construction of that is what got me watching your DIY videos. That boat will be a dinghy for our retirement home. We plan on selling everything and buying a ~50' yacht to live and travel on. Plan on doing the Great Loop and the Caribbean for several years.
Glad the videos have been helpful! What an amazing retirement plan! We have a lot of Loopers come through the intra coastal waterway here on the northern gulf coast and I have always thought about how awesome it would be to get to do that! I wish you guys the best of luck in your travels, and thanks for watching and commenting
I was one of the guys asking for epoxy videos. Thanks so much, you have hit the nail on the head with epoxy series. And love the long format in depth videos. I have been a charter captain in Louisiana for almost 20 years, I run a 47 freeman out Grand Isle and have been playing around with fiberglass in small amounts over the years. I am building up the courage to build a small flats skiff. Def go with the marine ply for the skiff build again I think it’s one of those products that is more accessible and affordable for DIY. Thanks again!
Glad to help Capt! I am telling you, I read every comment and try to do what will help the most people. I love those big Freemans, that is a serious boat! Thanks for your thoughts and input on the skiff build, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for the video sir, I’m getting ready to restore a small skiff and your videos are great! I really appreciate the attention to detail in your videos
Capt Joe and Fish bump family Awesome video demonstration actually I found out something about myself you will be really surprised how much work can be accomplished when you actually get out there and just start working Lol moving forward the only way to find out something is just get on it if you are not making mistakes you aren't learning! y'all have a awesome day thanks for your time and experience !
LOVE this content! Great videos, very informative and the camera work is great! I am about to start replacing the waterlogged floor in my 82 Ski Nautique and these videos have just stepped up my confidence! Thanks for producing such great content!
Very good explanation and instructive. Would have saved me lots of sleepless nights. The difference between epoxy and PE resin with CSM is very good. I’m looking at molding hatches so PE will be the ticket. Those little skiffs remind me of Stauters built in Theodore.
Glad to help! I have actually owned several Stauter skiffs, and done some restorations on some others. The ones we build are usually stitch and glue, and painted inside and out. I think we might build one of ours on the channel if I get enough interest. Thanks for watching!
Great info and tutorials you put out,and I definitely don't mind the long videos. You have clear and understandable way of explaining what you're doing and the methods involved. Thanks.
Love how you go into it how you explain all the details that’s what it takes to do a great job love the long videos to thanks for all you do and all your time hope you jump up to a million subscribers fast
So I am using iso tooling resin for my project and I coated all the stringers with a 50/50 mix acetone and resin, as per a recommendation from the company I purchased my resin from. Then I saw your video that mentions this isn’t a good idea and should have used styrene monomer. It’s done now, but before I glass, should I do a bit of sanding? The first portion I started I didn’t. Hope I’m not messing up too bad. Thank you for all your help as you have an amazing channel and the best content on you tube for DIY’ers!
Glad you are enjoying the channel! A 50/50 resin to acetone primer is not something I would recommend, nor do most resin manufacturers. But I have heard of some people doing it,and having some success.I wish I could give you more advice on this one! But it's just not something I have experience with.
Lots of people tell me I should just make my custom canoe 24 foot keep the wood finish look, I like the idea of glassing and have a complete color that's highly durable as well has shark teeth and paint on it.
Sounds like a cool project! I am sure that there are pros and cons to doing it each way. I always like to add the fiberglass personally. Thanks for watching!
Another UA-camr was redoing an old jet boat and when he was doing his transom and stringer tabbing, he was doing larger to smaller on top whereas I did like you with smaller to large on top. I did 4”,8” and 12” on mine. I would think it would be more structural going smaller to larger.
We have built hundreds of boats and done countless repairs going small to large on the fiberglass layers with very good results. I am sure you will be happy with the strengthof the layup. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Once again- amazing tutorial! I wonder, is there a better material than plywood, but cheaper than coosa, for boat use?? What about that honeycomb sheeting? Would that be structural enough, and would it be prone to water infiltration?
There are lightweight structural foam cores, but they rely on quite a bit of fiberglass on both sides of the panel for them to have much strength. Those cores don't hold fasteners well like plywood or Coosa does. If I find anything that will bridge the gap between Coosa and plywood I will let you guys know. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the comment! Yes, it can be done that way. We just try to use marine plywood because it if going to be of a higher quality and will usually last longer. I appreciate you watching
Great video material! But it ended a bit abruptly.. Is there a part 2? I am working with glassfiber and resin for my first time. Building a pacific proa.
Thank you for your informative videos, I find them extremely helpful. I'm planning on building a plywood aquarium and sealing the interior with fiberglass. I do have a question that you might be able to answer. If I fiberglass the wood portion of the viewing panel, can I use 100% silicone sealant between the fiberglass and the glass viewing window?
Glad you are enjoying the videos! I would imagine that a quality marine silicone sealant would work for your aquarium build, but I can not say for absolute sure. Maybe someone could comment on this if they know. Thanks for watching.
Great video. Towards the end you indicated there are times when polyester is put over epoxy. If you are unsure what the current resin is, is there prep work that can be done to help the poly bind if it is in fact epoxy?
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. We don't usually recommend going over epoxy with polyester products. It can be unpredictable. Some material combos will work and others will not. You can use epoxy over polyester with good results though. I always tell people that experimenting with different materials in small, non critical test batches could answer some compatability questions for you. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you for the quick response. This is on a 1986 bass boat stringer reinforcement. My guess it is polyester, what would be the behavior of the bind if incompatible. I plan on using poly for the deck replacement.
Thanks for all the information. I have a little Ouachita(14 ft) I inherited from my dad. It has some chips along the keel I noticed and I’m wondering if it’s got moisture in the hull. I put a little 25 four stroke and it about sinks it with me in the back.. any suggestions on how to figure out if it’s weighted down with moisture?
I recently picked up a 1978 Dixie center console in need of floor and transom repair. I live in a coastal village with only one lumber supplier. I called to price marine plywood and the salesman recommended using BC plywood and encapsulating it in resin before installing it. Also is it necessary to re-foam the hull under the floor? I would like to know your thoughts before moving forward with the restoration. FYI this is a budget build and it’s hard not to rush it when I cross 4 rivers and a bay daily. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time!
Plywood quality can vary so much that it can be hard to say for sure without seeing it. The plywood they have might be just fine for what you are doing. If in doubt about the quality of the plywood, you might want to consider using epoxy or vinyl Ester resins for the job as they tend to bond better to a broader range of materials. As far as the foam under the floor goes, it is not only flotation but it can also add strength to the hull bottom. I usually recommend going back with materials that are at least as good, or better than the original if possible. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
Wow, very nice! Thanks for all the knowledge!! Is it possible to spray like a texture(drywall or stucco) after you've applied the fiberglass to give it a more rough look before the gel paint?
So I was not aware of the Amin blush cleaning process, and went ahead and applied gel code straight over my epoxy repair. What is the best way to remove the uncured gel coat now so I can go back and clean the amine blush off?
Again thank you. I have a question, I am rebuilding transom and floor on my Avon searider 5.4 rib. There larger areas are needed to be layered with fibreglass which suggests more resin is needed for each lay up? So do we still use the pumps or is it too small quantity mixed this way and we need to use mixing cups? I am fairly confident I can mix correctly either by weight or volume, but I don't know if this will produce too much heat due to larger volume. Also, what is the recommended maximum size of fibre glass piece to use for each lay up in order to avoid creating too much heat? This is my first fibreglass repair and your channel offers amazing knowledge and value. Thank you.
Yes, you can pour into cups for larger batches. Just be sure to get your ratios correct. There a lots of variables when it comes to max size and thickness of the fiberglass. Temperature, catalyst percentage, thickness of glass and the experience level of the persons doing the work would all factor in. I would suggest starting small, and experiment some before going big. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Loving your videos, helping me so much, I'm rebuilding a Colvic Watson 28' 6", and I'm going with epoxy, what weight 1708 do you use? many thanks from England!
Thanks so much for watching all the way from England! Sounds like a interesting project. Our fiberglass suppliers only stock one kind of 1708 as far as I know. Maybe overseas there are different options for 1708 fabric. I will try to do some research on that for you guys. Best of luck with your project!
thanks for getting back to me, we seem to have what's called combination matt, which looks the same as 1708, but in three weights to choose from, in grams per metre, I think I'll look at the middle weight to start with, and go from there, it's compatible with epoxy, so should be good.
I've heard it said that no matter how good you do with marine plywood, water always finds it's way in? Do you concur? I may switch to coosa after I get the transom in my project done before I start on stringers. I figured plywood on the transom would be more rigid? Where are you sourcing your coosa?😊
I don't necessarily agree that water intrusion is inevitable. I have seen fiberglassed marine plywood last many decades, with no problems. I think it has a lot to do with the quality of your fiberglass work and how carefully you seal any holes that you have to put in it. I really like the Coosa board, though. It eliminates any worries you may have about moisture problems. You will want to use the Bluewater 26 pound density, or the new 32-pound density core for transoms. I buy mine locally from a company called Advanced Plastics, but I believe Boat Outfitters could be a good online source for you. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV , I've been methodical about waterproofing the transom material, I have the keyhole Jig to re drill the holes, I was going to true them up. Then oversize dril from inside short of the outer fiberglass. Then brush in resin. Apply structural putty then re drill with the jig. Also re water proof the key hole and lay up some 1708 and 1808 in it.
@@copperheadmarine 3m 4200 and life caulk are a couple that I have had good success with. I have a choosing a sealant video here on the channel that I made several months back. It might have some useful tips for you.
When you build a boat how do you get it registered and get the stickers stating the maximum lbs and horse power for it? In Texas if you put a trolling motor on a duck you have to register it.😁
Since I do it professionally, I have my own HIN or hull identification numbers that I issue to each boat I build. Then we provide each boat with a statement of origin and a bill of sale to the new owner. Then they can have it Registered with the state, just like any other new boat. If you build a homemade boat, most states will have a game warden or state official come out and verify what you have built, and then issue paperwork to get it officially approved by the state you are in. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Great video, thank you! I made a mistake and forgot to remove the blush after the first "sealing" layer on wood, and made a second layer on it. Should I remove/sand everything down? No judgement, please, I feel stupid enough already...
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Some 2 to 1 epoxy resins may not produce amine blush, so if you happened to use one of those, you may be OK. You might want to reach out to the company and see what they say. Otherwise the amine blush from the first coat will not allow the next coat to bond properly, and will probably release or come loose at some point. To be on the safe side you may have to remove the last coat by sanding or grinding it off. I would definitely check on if the epoxy does produce a blush first though. Hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
@@FishBumpTV I'm using 5 to 1 West System 105+206, sorry I didn't clarify that. I will grind it down, lesson learned :) Thank yo for the reply, and thanks again for the video!
Just an update/question: cleaned with soapy water and paper towels and don't see any dirty water or signs on towels. How do I know if there is any blush at all? Cleaned and not cleaned areas look and feel the same.
@musette-studio The 5 to 1 west definitely produces a blush, so you did the right thing by grinding the new layer off. The grinding plus the cleaning should have removed the blush.
Hello, I have a question I have watched alot of your videos, and you talk about 3m marine high strength repair filler vinyl ester. This video you talk about your peanut butter is there a difference as to the effects or bonding of the peanut butter as apposed to the 3m marine high strength repair filler to the epoxy resin ? Does it seal better with combination of peanut butter to epoxy or is it the same with 3m marine high strength repair filler? Thank you so much for your information, I am with USCG as well learning about wood working and boat building through you since all our boats are aluminum or steel.
The 3M high strength filler should be used over polyester and vinyl Ester based resins and fillers, not over epoxy based materials. I aways recommend using epoxy based fillers, like the peanut butter over other epoxy resins and fillers. There can be serious bonding and compatibility issues if you put polyester or vinyl Ester over epoxy. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I’m curious as to what fibreglass & resin product would stand up to the most abuse as I’m thinking of building a hybrid between a Garvey and pacific Dory. I hunt and fish heavily, haul quads, haul building materials and people frequently in a flat bottom pacific dory style boat.
Sounds like a interesting project. All the materials have pros and cons. Cost, workability, availability etc. It is hard to say exactly which combo would be best for you. Gelcoat is probably going to be the toughest material for your exterior coating, and if you want to use gelcoat, then you would use a polyester or vinyl Ester resin for your fiberglassing. In my opinion, Vinyl Ester is the better of the two as far as bonding and waterproofing. I will be making a resin selection guide video very soon for you guys. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Do you ever apply your cloth onto previously applied resin that you have allowed to cure to the point of being very tacky but not fully cured so as to secure the fabric in place? 29:34 And in what circumstances would you do that?
I don't typically do that, but you can. The downside is it makes it hard to reposition the fabric if you don't place it just right. It could be helpful if you are fiberglassing overhead though. Thanks for watching!
I have always used the black construction clean up bags like I show in the video. They do not appear to have any perfumes or residues. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Please make the skiff out of wood. The materials are less expensive for DIYers. Love your channel! If you don't receive an award from UA-cam...it's their stupidity...not you content, subject, delivery, or anything else!!!!!
I just started watching this channel and I've gone through whole top build and few other videos. Maybe I haven't gotten to the one for my question, but here it is. So I've heard (not knowing much in depth) that boat all none wood. So could you use pvc board for that application? And could you use that vinyl- polyester with pvc, or if not, with Marine Ply? Also, thank you very much for the info, very interesting and educational
Welcome to the channel, and thanks for watching! There are many different types of foams and cores materials out there, and they all have pretty specific applications. Light weight cores are great for parts such as our hardtop, where weight saving is very important, and the loads put on it are not extremely high. Transoms and stringers need something tougher, like Coosa board in the 26 pound density. That is what I used exclusively in the build of our 29ft center console that you see in the background of our videos. I have a whole series of videos documenting that boats construction. I think those videos might answer some of your questions. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I am converting a 16 Prindle catamaran into a pontoon. What do you recommend for decking material? Marine plywood, coosa or honeycomb materials? Thanks.
I would recommend either Coosa or marine plywood. Coosa is more durable, but more expensive. Plywood is cheaper, and usually easier to get in most areas, but it can rot or weather over time. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
Sailor here with a 38 year old boat so I’m always either fixing something or improving something. Your demonstrations are very good. It’s really helpful to have professional advice. Thanks!
Glad to help, and thanks for watching!
You Sir, are the Norm Abram of the Marine Industry....New Yankee Work Shop
Haha, that's a good one! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the great videos. I will be building a tiny travel trailer and fiberglassing it with epoxy. Right now I'm putting together a tiny tiny travel trailer (1/2 scale) for fiberglassing practice. This video covered all of the basic techniques that I need short of patching screw holes .. and turns out you had a video for that too! So - thanks a bunch!
Awesome! Sounds like a great project! Glad the videos are helpful.
I've said it before and I'll say it again. These videos would've been extremely valuable when I was doing my own project. I appreciate them because I know how long this takes, between prep, mixing, laminating and so forth. Something I learned as far as glass forming to a radius is that 1708 forms to an inside radius, like a stringer to hull, quite well. But on an outside radius like a cap to a hull, if I flipped the 1708 over so the mat side was up, it actually took to the bend much like mat side down on an inside radius.
Thanks so much! I appreciate your thoughts!
A new sailboat owner working on a 50 year old monohull. At 60 I am learning how to swim sail and a DYI drive project. Thanks for sharing your expertise
Glad to help, and best of luck with your project!
I’m an old Roy Rogers Yellow Jacket fan
Skied behind them in the 50’s.
He built a beautiful wooden boat in his days.
Very cool, thanks for your comment!
The time and effort put into your tutorials Joe is astounding. So much useful information delivered in a clear and logical manner. As a DIY builder these are like being an apprentice in your shop. Be careful not to burn yourself out by too rapid a production schedule. There's lots to digest over the days/weeks after each of your posts. Many thanks from Nova Scotia! 👍👍
Thanks so much for watching all of the way from Nova Scotia! Glad you are enjoying the videos. I appreciate your thoughts, we are trying to get alot out to you guys now because our charter fishing season will be starting very soon. I understand what you are saying though and we are working on finding a good work balance. Thanks again for your concern!
Capt Joe and Fish bump family wanted to say marine plywood for small boat and really existed about the upcoming polyester video appreciate y'all sharing family legacy Congratulations on your patron moving forward!
Great suggestion! Thanks for your thoughts, and thanks for watching!
Great job, Capt. Joe. Sure it was long, but it was packed with info and this is the most complete start-to-finish tutorial I've seen of wrapping a stringer to a transom. To see all of this, you would have to watch twice as much video from other sources and not get the complete picture in one video and you'd see a lot. of senseless chatter. One thing that might be helpful for the channel is to highlight previous videos more by using the tools to have links Pop up during the edit. It really helps the algorithm to have viewers view multiple videos of yours in a row.
Thanks so much! Great tip, we will try to add that into our editing.
Hi, bass fisherman from Canada, I m restoring a 28 year old hyda-sport bass boat that has fiberglass foam filled stringers, plywood transom, plywood floors and foam core in the bottom of the hull, every inch of foam and plywood is water logged, the floor was bolted to the stringers with screws that were not sealed and water got in, the fiberglass work on this boat is terrible, huge air pockets in the fiberglass, very bad tabbing of the stringers, sloppy sloppy friday afternoon work.
Thanks for sharing your knowlege and taking the time to film, keep it up.
Glad to help! Yes, it is shocking how bad some of the glass work is in some production boats! I am sure it will be better than new when you are done. Thanks for watching all the way from Canada 🍁!
Thank you, your videos have helped and guided me through my project. I am filling in an out drive hole in a transom and adding knee supports to the inside for a outboard bracket conversion. I am experienced in autobody repair but never did much with fiberglass.
Glad to help and best of luck with your project!
I’m a fisherman and some water sports but mostly fishing love to fish and just get out on the weekends and take a nice boat ride
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Your videos are great! I’m an automotive painter and body tech. (Currently chasing hail storms doing paint less dent repair). But I love working on boats.
Thanks so much! I have a Buddy that does that kind of work in our area, and that takes alot of skill! I can't believe how good you guys are at making dents disappear. I really appreciate you watching and commenting, and best of luck with your boat projects!
Thank you so much for this video. I have a lot of this exact process to do and seeing how to prep with dry fitting before you laminate was extremely helpful. Answered a lot of questions I had. You asked what kinda of boat owners watch. We have a 93 Sea Ray 330 EC. This is our first boat beyond a regular ski boat. Needed lots of mechanical work so I learned tons on how everything work. Boat is 100% now. Next up. Building a stitch and glue 15' 50's style runabout. Construction of that is what got me watching your DIY videos. That boat will be a dinghy for our retirement home. We plan on selling everything and buying a ~50' yacht to live and travel on. Plan on doing the Great Loop and the Caribbean for several years.
Glad the videos have been helpful! What an amazing retirement plan! We have a lot of Loopers come through the intra coastal waterway here on the northern gulf coast and I have always thought about how awesome it would be to get to do that! I wish you guys the best of luck in your travels, and thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks again. Lots too learn from fish bump!
You bet! Appreciate your comment!
I was one of the guys asking for epoxy videos. Thanks so much, you have hit the nail on the head with epoxy series. And love the long format in depth videos. I have been a charter captain in Louisiana for almost 20 years, I run a 47 freeman out Grand Isle and have been playing around with fiberglass in small amounts over the years. I am building up the courage to build a small flats skiff. Def go with the marine ply for the skiff build again I think it’s one of those products that is more accessible and affordable for DIY. Thanks again!
Glad to help Capt! I am telling you, I read every comment and try to do what will help the most people. I love those big Freemans, that is a serious boat! Thanks for your thoughts and input on the skiff build, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great job spent my Friday night doing stringers with epoxy.
That is awesome! Best of luck with your project!
We do mostly fishing and some just plain pleasure cruising !! Thank You again for another very informative video !!
Our pleasure! Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for the video sir, I’m getting ready to restore a small skiff and your videos are great! I really appreciate the attention to detail in your videos
Welcome to the channel! Glad to help!
Capt Joe and Fish bump family Awesome video demonstration actually I found out something about myself you will be really surprised how much work can be accomplished when you actually get out there and just start working Lol moving forward the only way to find out something is just get on it if you are not making mistakes you aren't learning! y'all have a awesome day thanks for your time and experience !
Awesome, glad to hear that you are making some good progress! As always I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Another great video! You need one dock fight with a Karen you’ll have 100k subscribers lol
Haha! Yep, maybe so! We are going to get there one way or the other, I sure do appreciate everyone's encouragement and support of the channel!
LOVE this content! Great videos, very informative and the camera work is great! I am about to start replacing the waterlogged floor in my 82 Ski Nautique and these videos have just stepped up my confidence! Thanks for producing such great content!
Wow, thanks! Glad the videos are helpful, and best of luck with your project!
I’m buy a classic 1973 Trojan f25 so your videos will definitely help me along the way
Nice! Best of luck with your project!
Very good explanation and instructive. Would have saved me lots of sleepless nights. The difference between epoxy and PE resin with CSM is very good. I’m looking at molding hatches so PE will be the ticket. Those little skiffs remind me of Stauters built in Theodore.
Glad to help! I have actually owned several Stauter skiffs, and done some restorations on some others. The ones we build are usually stitch and glue, and painted inside and out. I think we might build one of ours on the channel if I get enough interest. Thanks for watching!
Great info and tutorials you put out,and I definitely don't mind the long videos. You have clear and understandable way of explaining what you're doing and the methods involved. Thanks.
Thanks, I really appreciate that!
I watch your lessons with great pleasure and very carefully. Keep going!!!
Thank you, I will!
Thank You very much. Excellent video. I'm trying to build my light weight truck camper.
Best of luck!
The more detail the better. Lovin it!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos!
Gran trabajo, y muy ilustrativo, sin duda! Gracias!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for Watching
Love how you go into it how you explain all the details that’s what it takes to do a great job love the long videos to thanks for all you do and all your time hope you jump up to a million subscribers fast
Wow, thanks! With a million subs we would definitely be doing some Awesome projects for you guys!
So I am using iso tooling resin for my project and I coated all the stringers with a 50/50 mix acetone and resin, as per a recommendation from the company I purchased my resin from. Then I saw your video that mentions this isn’t a good idea and should have used styrene monomer. It’s done now, but before I glass, should I do a bit of sanding? The first portion I started I didn’t. Hope I’m not messing up too bad. Thank you for all your help as you have an amazing channel and the best content on you tube for DIY’ers!
Glad you are enjoying the channel! A 50/50 resin to acetone primer is not something I would recommend, nor do most resin manufacturers. But I have heard of some people doing it,and having some success.I wish I could give you more advice on this one! But it's just not something I have experience with.
Lots of people tell me I should just make my custom canoe 24 foot keep the wood finish look, I like the idea of glassing and have a complete color that's highly durable as well has shark teeth and paint on it.
Sounds like a cool project! I am sure that there are pros and cons to doing it each way. I always like to add the fiberglass personally. Thanks for watching!
Excelentes vídeos , te escribo desde Chile 🇨🇱 👋👋👋
Thanks for watching all the way from Chile 🇨🇱
Would love to see how you fix stress cracks in gel coat
Thanks for the suggestion!
Another UA-camr was redoing an old jet boat and when he was doing his transom and stringer tabbing, he was doing larger to smaller on top whereas I did like you with smaller to large on top. I did 4”,8” and 12” on mine. I would think it would be more structural going smaller to larger.
We have built hundreds of boats and done countless repairs going small to large on the fiberglass layers with very good results. I am sure you will be happy with the strengthof the layup. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Might be good to mentioned using the special hardener that doesn't leave the amine blush
I plan on doing a resin review very soon, and I will mention that. Thanks for the comment!
Your videos are amazing and inspiring. Thank you VERY much for sharing the knowledge.
Wow, thanks so much for the comment!
Any chance you can make a video about what you do after the layup is complete regarding to your tool cleanup?
Sure, thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
Great video with awesome tips and advice! Greetings from Sweden🇸🇪
Thanks for watching all of the way from Sweden 🇸🇪!
Vielen Dank für deine Erklärungen in den Videoclips! Great job! I like your videos very much!!!
You are very welcome!Glad you are enjoying the videos!
Once again- amazing tutorial!
I wonder, is there a better material than plywood, but cheaper than coosa, for boat use??
What about that honeycomb sheeting? Would that be structural enough, and would it be prone to water infiltration?
There are lightweight structural foam cores, but they rely on quite a bit of fiberglass on both sides of the panel for them to have much strength. Those cores don't hold fasteners well like plywood or Coosa does. If I find anything that will bridge the gap between Coosa and plywood I will let you guys know. Thanks for watching!
I know a guy in jasper, al built his fishing John boat out of regular plywood from local hardware store he epoxies and fiber glasses together.
Thanks for the comment! Yes, it can be done that way. We just try to use marine plywood because it if going to be of a higher quality and will usually last longer. I appreciate you watching
Great video material! But it ended a bit abruptly.. Is there a part 2?
I am working with glassfiber and resin for my first time. Building a pacific proa.
I don't know why it ended abruptly! I will see if we can get that corrected for you. Thanks for watching!
Awesome again Captain Joe, thanks so much 👍🇦🇺
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching!
thank you .very informative for us beginners. keep em coming.
Thanks, will do!
Do the boat build with plywood, more affordable.
As usual,today’s video was a master class
Thanks for the suggestion!
Thank you for your informative videos, I find them extremely helpful. I'm planning on building a plywood aquarium and sealing the interior with fiberglass. I do have a question that you might be able to answer. If I fiberglass the wood portion of the viewing panel, can I use 100% silicone sealant between the fiberglass and the glass viewing window?
Glad you are enjoying the videos! I would imagine that a quality marine silicone sealant would work for your aquarium build, but I can not say for absolute sure. Maybe someone could comment on this if they know. Thanks for watching.
Enjoying your channel 👍 I would like to see a coosa stitch and glue example.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Great video. Towards the end you indicated there are times when polyester is put over epoxy. If you are unsure what the current resin is, is there prep work that can be done to help the poly bind if it is in fact epoxy?
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. We don't usually recommend going over epoxy with polyester products. It can be unpredictable. Some material combos will work and others will not. You can use epoxy over polyester with good results though. I always tell people that experimenting with different materials in small, non critical test batches could answer some compatability questions for you. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you for the quick response. This is on a 1986 bass boat stringer reinforcement. My guess it is polyester, what would be the behavior of the bind if incompatible. I plan on using poly for the deck replacement.
Thanks for all the information. I have a little Ouachita(14 ft) I inherited from my dad. It has some chips along the keel I noticed and I’m wondering if it’s got moisture in the hull. I put a little 25 four stroke and it about sinks it with me in the back.. any suggestions on how to figure out if it’s weighted down with moisture?
I recently picked up a 1978 Dixie center console in need of floor and transom repair. I live in a coastal village with only one lumber supplier. I called to price marine plywood and the salesman recommended using BC plywood and encapsulating it in resin before installing it. Also is it necessary to re-foam the hull under the floor?
I would like to know your thoughts before moving forward with the restoration. FYI this is a budget build and it’s hard not to rush it when I cross 4 rivers and a bay daily. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time!
Plywood quality can vary so much that it can be hard to say for sure without seeing it. The plywood they have might be just fine for what you are doing. If in doubt about the quality of the plywood, you might want to consider using epoxy or vinyl Ester resins for the job as they tend to bond better to a broader range of materials. As far as the foam under the floor goes, it is not only flotation but it can also add strength to the hull bottom. I usually recommend going back with materials that are at least as good, or better than the original if possible. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
Wow, very nice! Thanks for all the knowledge!! Is it possible to spray like a texture(drywall or stucco) after you've applied the fiberglass to give it a more rough look before the gel paint?
Thanks! If you roll the gelcoat with a 3/8 nap roller it will have a nice texture. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Thank you!
I would like to see your next boat out of cusa.
Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
So I was not aware of the Amin blush cleaning process, and went ahead and applied gel code straight over my epoxy repair. What is the best way to remove the uncured gel coat now so I can go back and clean the amine blush off?
Like your videos, keep it up, from PUERTO RICO😊😊😊
Glad you like them! And thanks for Watching all the way from Puerto Rico!
Best video explaining the process! I’m using fiberglass on rc aircraft but this was very informative and helpful for me 🫡
Awesome, thank you!
Again thank you. I have a question, I am rebuilding transom and floor on my Avon searider 5.4 rib. There larger areas are needed to be layered with fibreglass which suggests more resin is needed for each lay up? So do we still use the pumps or is it too small quantity mixed this way and we need to use mixing cups? I am fairly confident I can mix correctly either by weight or volume, but I don't know if this will produce too much heat due to larger volume. Also, what is the recommended maximum size of fibre glass piece to use for each lay up in order to avoid creating too much heat? This is my first fibreglass repair and your channel offers amazing knowledge and value. Thank you.
Yes, you can pour into cups for larger batches. Just be sure to get your ratios correct. There a lots of variables when it comes to max size and thickness of the fiberglass. Temperature, catalyst percentage, thickness of glass and the experience level of the persons doing the work would all factor in. I would suggest starting small, and experiment some before going big. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you!!
Hi. the mat you are using on the plywood is that Biaxial Mat Cloth ? Thanks
It is 1708 biaxial fiberglass, it does have a mat finish on the bottom side. Thanks for watching
Loving your videos, helping me so much, I'm rebuilding a Colvic Watson 28' 6", and I'm going with epoxy, what weight 1708 do you use? many thanks from England!
Thanks so much for watching all the way from England! Sounds like a interesting project. Our fiberglass suppliers only stock one kind of 1708 as far as I know. Maybe overseas there are different options for 1708 fabric. I will try to do some research on that for you guys. Best of luck with your project!
thanks for getting back to me, we seem to have what's called combination matt, which looks the same as 1708, but in three weights to choose from, in grams per metre, I think I'll look at the middle weight to start with, and go from there, it's compatible with epoxy, so should be good.
I've heard it said that no matter how good you do with marine plywood, water always finds it's way in? Do you concur? I may switch to coosa after I get the transom in my project done before I start on stringers. I figured plywood on the transom would be more rigid? Where are you sourcing your coosa?😊
I don't necessarily agree that water intrusion is inevitable. I have seen fiberglassed marine plywood last many decades, with no problems. I think it has a lot to do with the quality of your fiberglass work and how carefully you seal any holes that you have to put in it. I really like the Coosa board, though. It eliminates any worries you may have about moisture problems. You will want to use the Bluewater 26 pound density, or the new 32-pound density core for transoms. I buy mine locally from a company called Advanced Plastics, but I believe Boat Outfitters could be a good online source for you. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV , I've been methodical about waterproofing the transom material, I have the keyhole Jig to re drill the holes, I was going to true them up. Then oversize dril from inside short of the outer fiberglass. Then brush in resin. Apply structural putty then re drill with the jig. Also re water proof the key hole and lay up some 1708 and 1808 in it.
@copperheadmarine That sounds good! Then use a high quality marine sealant when you are putting it all together. That should last a very long time.
@@FishBumpTV ,what sealant do you recommend?
@@copperheadmarine 3m 4200 and life caulk are a couple that I have had good success with. I have a choosing a sealant video here on the channel that I made several months back. It might have some useful tips for you.
When you build a boat how do you get it registered and get the stickers stating the maximum lbs and horse power for it?
In Texas if you put a trolling motor on a duck you have to register it.😁
Since I do it professionally, I have my own HIN or hull identification numbers that I issue to each boat I build. Then we provide each boat with a statement of origin and a bill of sale to the new owner. Then they can have it Registered with the state, just like any other new boat. If you build a homemade boat, most states will have a game warden or state official come out and verify what you have built, and then issue paperwork to get it officially approved by the state you are in. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you
Great video, thank you! I made a mistake and forgot to remove the blush after the first "sealing" layer on wood, and made a second layer on it. Should I remove/sand everything down? No judgement, please, I feel stupid enough already...
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Some 2 to 1 epoxy resins may not produce amine blush, so if you happened to use one of those, you may be OK. You might want to reach out to the company and see what they say. Otherwise the amine blush from the first coat will not allow the next coat to bond properly, and will probably release or come loose at some point. To be on the safe side you may have to remove the last coat by sanding or grinding it off. I would definitely check on if the epoxy does produce a blush first though. Hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
@@FishBumpTV I'm using 5 to 1 West System 105+206, sorry I didn't clarify that. I will grind it down, lesson learned :) Thank yo for the reply, and thanks again for the video!
Just an update/question: cleaned with soapy water and paper towels and don't see any dirty water or signs on towels. How do I know if there is any blush at all? Cleaned and not cleaned areas look and feel the same.
@musette-studio The 5 to 1 west definitely produces a blush, so you did the right thing by grinding the new layer off. The grinding plus the cleaning should have removed the blush.
So how did you glue the stringer down using the peanut butter mix ?
Yes, you can bed the stringer in thickened epoxy. Thanks for watching
Hello, I have a question I have watched alot of your videos, and you talk about 3m marine high strength repair filler vinyl ester. This video you talk about your peanut butter is there a difference as to the effects or bonding of the peanut butter as apposed to the 3m marine high strength repair filler to the epoxy resin ? Does it seal better with combination of peanut butter to epoxy or is it the same with 3m marine high strength repair filler? Thank you so much for your information, I am with USCG as well learning about wood working and boat building through you since all our boats are aluminum or steel.
The 3M high strength filler should be used over polyester and vinyl Ester based resins and fillers, not over epoxy based materials. I aways recommend using epoxy based fillers, like the peanut butter over other epoxy resins and fillers. There can be serious bonding and compatibility issues if you put polyester or vinyl Ester over epoxy. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you so much, you have taught me so much.
@@nonstopfishing6486 glad to help!
I’m curious as to what fibreglass & resin product would stand up to the most abuse as I’m thinking of building a hybrid between a Garvey and pacific Dory. I hunt and fish heavily, haul quads, haul building materials and people frequently in a flat bottom pacific dory style boat.
Sounds like a interesting project. All the materials have pros and cons. Cost, workability, availability etc. It is hard to say exactly which combo would be best for you. Gelcoat is probably going to be the toughest material for your exterior coating, and if you want to use gelcoat, then you would use a polyester or vinyl Ester resin for your fiberglassing. In my opinion, Vinyl Ester is the better of the two as far as bonding and waterproofing. I will be making a resin selection guide video very soon for you guys. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thank you for responding. I appreciate your input and it’s given me my answers.
keep the vids long and detailed please!
Ok, thanks
Can someone go over board with expoxy, fiberglass and paint? Like I put 4 layers of glass/epoxy and three/four extra coats of paint
I am sure there is a point that could be considered to much, but I think what you have would just be considered heavy duty. She should be tough!
Do you ever apply your cloth onto previously applied resin that you have allowed to cure to the point of being very tacky but not fully cured so as to secure the fabric in place? 29:34 And in what circumstances would you do that?
I don't typically do that, but you can. The downside is it makes it hard to reposition the fabric if you don't place it just right. It could be helpful if you are fiberglassing overhead though. Thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Great information, thank you!
@@RK-pe8fc glad to help
Does the perfume in the plastic bag contaminate the resin and cloth?
I have always used the black construction clean up bags like I show in the video. They do not appear to have any perfumes or residues. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Coosa
😊
Thanks!
Powdered csm for epoxy.
Yes, we don't have it here in the states. I wish we did! Thanks for watching and commenting
Please make the skiff out of wood. The materials are less expensive for DIYers.
Love your channel! If you don't receive an award from UA-cam...it's their stupidity...not you content, subject, delivery, or anything else!!!!!
Thanks for your suggestion, I will definitely keep that in consideration! I appreciate you watching and commenting!
I just started watching this channel and I've gone through whole top build and few other videos. Maybe I haven't gotten to the one for my question, but here it is. So I've heard (not knowing much in depth) that boat all none wood. So could you use pvc board for that application? And could you use that vinyl- polyester with pvc, or if not, with Marine Ply? Also, thank you very much for the info, very interesting and educational
Welcome to the channel, and thanks for watching! There are many different types of foams and cores materials out there, and they all have pretty specific applications. Light weight cores are great for parts such as our hardtop, where weight saving is very important, and the loads put on it are not extremely high. Transoms and stringers need something tougher, like Coosa board in the 26 pound density. That is what I used exclusively in the build of our 29ft center console that you see in the background of our videos. I have a whole series of videos documenting that boats construction. I think those videos might answer some of your questions. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I am converting a 16 Prindle catamaran into a pontoon. What do you recommend for decking material? Marine plywood, coosa or honeycomb materials? Thanks.
I would recommend either Coosa or marine plywood. Coosa is more durable, but more expensive. Plywood is cheaper, and usually easier to get in most areas, but it can rot or weather over time. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!