Thank you for stopping by and checking out this video. This channel’s success is determined by all of you that have taken the time to check out videos like this on my channel. Please leave me a comment on this video, as I read each and every one of them and I try to reply to everyone as well. If this is the first time you have stopped by please click on the subscribe button and don’t forget to hit the “bell” icon to get notifications as soon as we release future videos. We’re always looking to get feedback from our audience to improve. We need your feedback on the content you would like to see more of or type of content you want to see that has not been presented yet. So, let us know what content you would like to see and we may even shout you out on the channel. Thanks, everyone!
Great video! I do have a question though. If you have to dig right down to the side of the footer the whole way round would this not potentially cause the founds to collapse in? Or would this only happen if you dig under the founds?
This is a great explanation of how the system works. One question I had is why bother filling the trench with a perforated pipe and gravel, just simply leave the trench "open". During a rain event, the water will fill the trench and make it's way to the sump pit. If you add gravel + 4-inch perforated pipe then the 1st inch of water, which is moving through the gravel because the perforated pipe is laying on a 1-inch bed of gravel, will be impeded somewhat by the gravel as it flows to the sump pit and therefore flow more slowly then if the trench were completely open and therefore unimpeded by gravel. I assume most rain events will be small-ish, so most rain events will fill the trench the first inch only and never enter the perforated pipe. I understand you need 4-inch pipe + gravel if it's outside where kids or pets run and play or in an underground basement with a smooth, wall-to-wall concrete floor, but in a crawlspace nobody's going to trip while walking across the trench or care about "uglyness".
Hi Donald. Great comment by the way! The simple answer is the trench will collapse rapidly. Often if we don't get whole drainage system in on day way and it rains overnight we have to resign the trench. Some soils may take longer to collapse than others but in most soil its immediately. We have also improved this drainage system more by containing the whole system with a specialized non woven geotextile. Check out some of the new videos of that.
I understand the general concept, but I'm a little confused on how the water in the tube makes it all the way around the foundation and into the pump basin. Is the trench you dug graded towards the basin? Otherwise, wouldn't water simply collect inside of the tube around the footer?
I completely understand the concept but I did have three questions. 1. Do you dig down beside the footer, so that the bottom gravel layer installed is even with the bottom of the footer and not slightly below the footer? 2. Will the soil remain saturated/wet where the bottom layer of gravel is since the pipe is 1-2 inches higher? Thanks in advance!!
Thank you for this great video! I have a few questions I hope you will answer for me: How deep below the footer was the trench dug? How many inches of gravel did you install? After I level/grade the soil in the crawl space as my first step, how do I decide where the sump pump basin will go? To where do you typically place/tie in the drain pipe from the basin for exterior drain routing? In other words, where does the water from pump actually go? Thank you so much in advance for your knowledge and advice. I hope all is well, and hope to to hear from you soon!
1.) How deep below the footer was the trench dug? Bottom of trench should be even with the footer. Hydraulic pressure pushes water up under foundation/footer, you want to capture it there. 2.) How many inches of gravel did you install? Depends on how deep the footer is. We aim for a 10 inch of so trench (which locally puts us at footer level). We are using a 4inch perforated pipe, gravel covers to ground level. 3.) After I level/grade the soil in the crawl space as my first step, how do I decide where the sump pump basin will go? There is usually a lower corner. If not, we look outside and determine how the exterior property runs and place it on the lower side. 4.) To where do you typically place/tie in the drain pipe from the basin for exterior drain routing? In other words, where does the water from pump actually go? The sump pump has a discharge on the top of the pipe. We run a PVC pipe from that pump discharge up to the sill plate, exit through the sill plate, down to below ground level through a freeze relief connected to 3 inch PVC pipe and dig a discharge trench at least 30” from the house to a place where the water will run away from the house and end with a pop-up valve at ground level
my footer is already exposed from erosion of the sandy soil. can i use the fabric wrap pipe and just back fill with sand as long as i have it at the base of the footer? i live on really low low low ground close to the river..well actually i live on the old river bottom from centuries ago and the water table is very hi. i can hit water within 3 ft with a post hole digger tool and i feel my pump is too low in the ground and breaching the water table..what are your thoughts. thank you for your time to reply..russ
Great info thanks so much!!! I am trying to combat this issue. Seems to be a never ending battle living so close to Lake Erie and the rising levels creating non stop problems. My pump works fine and there are other things I know I have to do. I do the work myself lol, 58 yr old tough girl I am. Should I put a sock of some sort on the drain tile? I am thinking so because my crawl space is all sand. My home is small, 680 sq/ft but I need to get the water to the pump right? Gravel top and bottom as well?
Yes. Dig down 6 to 8in, line the ditch with a woven weed barrier fabric, install your 4in (perforated, sock covered pipe), then back fill with a 1 to 2in 3/4" crush filter rock, wrap your rock with the top part of the fabric, and cover with remaining rock to ground level.
I can't afford to do the French drain anytime soon there's like 1/2 inch water here n there in crawl. Is there anything I can do in meantime like maybe put a humidifier or fans or combo I have 3 vents along one wall n one opening on right thanx any info would be helpful
You should have ditches from the time it was built and all homes have a gravity drain in the lowest corner. If those ditches are clear and the drain is clear then the water should drain out. Usually there are 4-5 high spots that need cleared out of the drainage and the gravity drain needs uncovered or unclogged w a drain snake. Those drain n gravel systems without a sentiment sock around the pipe will just clog up eventually.
If you are not using a non woven DOT approved geotextile designed as a soil separator and drainage fabric the answer is yes. If you do us that fabric like we do now (see new videos) then you would not. Thanks for commenting!
Where or how close to house is the best location for a exterior trench? Water is coming into crawl space after rains and water is not significantly pooling next to house, but appears to be sinking down from about 3' to 5' out from house. We are trying to determine the best place and how deep for the trench. Thank you.
@@reinaldoromero25 - I would still leave it open with grave on top as well. Thanks for taking the time watching my video. Why types of videos would you like me to do in the future?
Hi Mike! Yes, but would caution against a slap in a crawl space. If something were to go wrong you would be looking at the cost of jackhammering up concrete. Extremely expensive to fix and a slap will not stop moisture problems.
I may have missed it but do you not use a trench wrap and sock? Aren't you afraid that dirt and small particles can get through the porous gravel and cause it to fail in 5-10 years? Eventually the small particles that shift through the gravel will enter the sump pump basin and clog all the drains.
I was thinking the same thing. I think a filter sock would be a good addition to this as it would prevent dirt from entering the pipe and making it's way into the sump pit.
Videos like these always show level crawlspaces and basements. My home's crawlspace is 2 feet deep at one end and 5 feet deep at the other. The footing steps down by one course of block every 8-10 feet. I can dig next to the footing at each level, but what about the transitions? I don't want to undermine the integrity of the foundation.
I don’t understand when they build a home, they don’t automatically install a drainage system by the footer of the crawl space.. That just seems like it should be the norm..
Most homes have a drainage system. My home was built in the 1960s and after 60+ years, dirt and other things have clogged it to the point it can no longer be jetted out. Drainage tile doesn't last forever--especially when done during the 1960s.
@@davidp8627 my home was built mid terrain on a downward slope to a wetland region! With no drainage system in the crawlspace. I have remedied some of this thru agricultural swales, but will have to add a sump pump to drain the remaining surplus..
At first, I thought it was done wrong and the pipe was on top of the footer, until he said "They have a tiny footer." I do this for a living, eighteen years, but I only do a few jobs per year now. In 63 and I can only go about four hours per day. I watched the whole video. It's done 100% correctly. The largest pest control firm in the world does these are it's horrific . I have about 80 videos that I'm dying to put online. Trash cans for basins. Pedestal -type sump pumps ($70) and they charge $1900. The basin floats up, the pedestal turns over and the system either shuts off or runs until it burns up. They somehow blame the homeowner or the salesman and move on. They went NYSE and they must have ante year plan to maximize profits off their good name and then close it.
Marlboro Matt the best thing to do is dig the ditch first. It's hard work. Pace yourself. Depending on how bad your water problem is, determines how big a ditch you want. Pour the base gravel into the ditch first and make sure it is level using the footer as a guide. We know the footer is flat and level. Put the pipe in, with the holes pointed down and look it over before you pour the next bags of gravel on. You can't make adjustments after that. Flat as a fritter, sir. It will not fail to go to the sump pump. If you try to put slope in it, you'll mess it up. The first one I did nearly killed me. I put in and took out the gravel twice, trying to put slope in it. Apple Drains straightened me out. Watch his videos. He's the man. We Can do just about anything now, but only because of him. And his videos.
Thank you for stopping by and checking out this video. This channel’s success is determined by all of you that have taken the time to check out videos like this on my channel. Please leave me a comment on this video, as I read each and every one of them and I try to reply to everyone as well.
If this is the first time you have stopped by please click on the subscribe button and don’t forget to hit the “bell” icon to get notifications as soon as we release future videos.
We’re always looking to get feedback from our audience to improve. We need your feedback on the content you would like to see more of or type of content you want to see that has not been presented yet. So, let us know what content you would like to see and we may even shout you out on the channel. Thanks, everyone!
My company used drain strips work better
Super clear video
Thanks so much for this super educational video. First time home buyer trying to understand a foundation report, this is so helpful!
would you suggest wrapping the pipe and gravel with some geotextile material in order to prevent dirt and mud mixing with water?
Great video! I do have a question though. If you have to dig right down to the side of the footer the whole way round would this not potentially cause the founds to collapse in? Or would this only happen if you dig under the founds?
Hey HydroHero, Nice to meet you, I am HydrogenAgent. Thanks for help! And nice to meet you!
This is a great explanation of how the system works. One question I had is why bother filling the trench with a perforated pipe and gravel, just simply leave the trench "open". During a rain event, the water will fill the trench and make it's way to the sump pit. If you add gravel + 4-inch perforated pipe then the 1st inch of water, which is moving through the gravel because the perforated pipe is laying on a 1-inch bed of gravel, will be impeded somewhat by the gravel as it flows to the sump pit and therefore flow more slowly then if the trench were completely open and therefore unimpeded by gravel. I assume most rain events will be small-ish, so most rain events will fill the trench the first inch only and never enter the perforated pipe.
I understand you need 4-inch pipe + gravel if it's outside where kids or pets run and play or in an underground basement with a smooth, wall-to-wall concrete floor, but in a crawlspace nobody's going to trip while walking across the trench or care about "uglyness".
Hi Donald. Great comment by the way! The simple answer is the trench will collapse rapidly. Often if we don't get whole drainage system in on day way and it rains overnight we have to resign the trench. Some soils may take longer to collapse than others but in most soil its immediately. We have also improved this drainage system more by containing the whole system with a specialized non woven geotextile. Check out some of the new videos of that.
Is the tile all set at the same depth around the footing? Do you have to worry about washout digging down so close to the footing? Thank you.
Do you need this perforated drainage system for a home in florida where all the soil is sandy loam?
What about using a gardenbed weed barrier with 4" perforated drainage pipe that has a silt sock on it?
I understand the general concept, but I'm a little confused on how the water in the tube makes it all the way around the foundation and into the pump basin. Is the trench you dug graded towards the basin? Otherwise, wouldn't water simply collect inside of the tube around the footer?
Not the dude but it is pitched w/ the gravel he mentioned.
Hi how deep do you need to dig to install the drain pipe
Wondering why the gravel surrounding the perforated pipe isn't wrapped with fabric to prevent sand from migrating into the gravel. Thank you
Great video
What is your opinion about using NDS EZ Flow pipe (which comes with Styrofoam peanuts) instead of rocks?
Thanks in advance
I completely understand the concept but I did have three questions.
1. Do you dig down beside the footer, so that the bottom gravel layer installed is even with the bottom of the footer and not slightly below the footer?
2. Will the soil remain saturated/wet where the bottom layer of gravel is since the pipe is 1-2 inches higher?
Thanks in advance!!
Thank you for this great video! I have a few questions I hope you will answer for me:
How deep below the footer was the trench dug?
How many inches of gravel did you install?
After I level/grade the soil in the crawl space as my first step, how do I decide where the sump pump basin will go?
To where do you typically place/tie in the drain pipe from the basin for exterior drain routing? In other words, where does the water from pump actually go?
Thank you so much in advance for your knowledge and advice. I hope all is well, and hope to to hear from you soon!
1.) How deep below the footer was the trench dug? Bottom of trench should be even with the footer. Hydraulic pressure pushes water up under foundation/footer, you want to capture it there.
2.) How many inches of gravel did you install? Depends on how deep the footer is. We aim for a 10 inch of so trench (which locally puts us at footer level). We are using a 4inch perforated pipe, gravel covers to ground level.
3.) After I level/grade the soil in the crawl space as my first step, how do I decide where the sump pump basin will go? There is usually a lower corner. If not, we look outside and determine how the exterior property runs and place it on the lower side.
4.) To where do you typically place/tie in the drain pipe from the basin for exterior drain routing? In other words, where does the water from pump actually go? The sump pump has a discharge on the top of the pipe. We run a PVC pipe from that pump discharge up to the sill plate, exit through the sill plate, down to below ground level through a freeze relief connected to 3 inch PVC pipe and dig a discharge trench at least 30” from the house to a place where the water will run away from the house and end with a pop-up valve at ground level
my footer is already exposed from erosion of the sandy soil. can i use the fabric wrap pipe and just back fill with sand as long as i have it at the base of the footer? i live on really low low low ground close to the river..well actually i live on the old river bottom from centuries ago and the water table is very hi. i can hit water within 3 ft with a post hole digger tool and i feel my pump is too low in the ground and breaching the water table..what are your thoughts. thank you for your time to reply..russ
Great info thanks so much!!! I am trying to combat this issue. Seems to be a never ending battle living so close to Lake Erie and the rising levels creating non stop problems. My pump works fine and there are other things I know I have to do. I do the work myself lol, 58 yr old tough girl I am. Should I put a sock of some sort on the drain tile? I am thinking so because my crawl space is all sand. My home is small, 680 sq/ft but I need to get the water to the pump right? Gravel top and bottom as well?
Yes. Dig down 6 to 8in, line the ditch with a woven weed barrier fabric, install your 4in (perforated, sock covered pipe), then back fill with a 1 to 2in 3/4" crush filter rock, wrap your rock with the top part of the fabric, and cover with remaining rock to ground level.
I can't afford to do the French drain anytime soon there's like 1/2 inch water here n there in crawl. Is there anything I can do in meantime like maybe put a humidifier or fans or combo I have 3 vents along one wall n one opening on right thanx any info would be helpful
What did you wind up doing
You should have ditches from the time it was built and all homes have a gravity drain in the lowest corner. If those ditches are clear and the drain is clear then the water should drain out. Usually there are 4-5 high spots that need cleared out of the drainage and the gravity drain needs uncovered or unclogged w a drain snake. Those drain n gravel systems without a sentiment sock around the pipe will just clog up eventually.
Hey Robert, Do you need to put gravel in the trench before the pipe to prevent clogging ?
If you are not using a non woven DOT approved geotextile designed as a soil separator and drainage fabric the answer is yes. If you do us that fabric like we do now (see new videos) then you would not. Thanks for commenting!
Can this French drain run outside the house around and into a pump?
Where or how close to house is the best location for a exterior trench? Water is coming into crawl space after rains and water is not significantly pooling next to house, but appears to be sinking down from about 3' to 5' out from house. We are trying to determine the best place and how deep for the trench. Thank you.
No answer I see. Bummer
Did all the piping have to be sloped towards the basin? I’m installing perforated pvc. I was gonna go for a 1% slope, is it necessary?
I don't think so
If in crawlspace do u have to cement over or can I leave with just cravel like that.
You never cement over drainage in a dirt crawl space. You want to keep the system open.
@@Waterandmoldpros sorry mine is a slap I'll have to dig out but won't need to recement if no one goes down there
@@reinaldoromero25 - I would still leave it open with grave on top as well. Thanks for taking the time watching my video. Why types of videos would you like me to do in the future?
Would this still drainage system still work if you are planning to pour concrete in the crawl space?
Hi Mike! Yes, but would caution against a slap in a crawl space. If something were to go wrong you would be looking at the cost of jackhammering up concrete. Extremely expensive to fix and a slap will not stop moisture problems.
Thank you
don't you want to stop the water before it goes under the footer?
its so much more work
I may have missed it but do you not use a trench wrap and sock? Aren't you afraid that dirt and small particles can get through the porous gravel and cause it to fail in 5-10 years? Eventually the small particles that shift through the gravel will enter the sump pump basin and clog all the drains.
I was thinking the same thing. I think a filter sock would be a good addition to this as it would prevent dirt from entering the pipe and making it's way into the sump pit.
Plus you wouldn't want dirt washing under the footing into the drain system, creating voids, right?
Videos like these always show level crawlspaces and basements. My home's crawlspace is 2 feet deep at one end and 5 feet deep at the other. The footing steps down by one course of block every 8-10 feet. I can dig next to the footing at each level, but what about the transitions? I don't want to undermine the integrity of the foundation.
I don’t understand when they build a home, they don’t automatically install a drainage system by the footer of the crawl space.. That just seems like it should be the norm..
Most homes have a drainage system. My home was built in the 1960s and after 60+ years, dirt and other things have clogged it to the point it can no longer be jetted out. Drainage tile doesn't last forever--especially when done during the 1960s.
@@davidp8627 my home was built mid terrain on a downward slope to a wetland region! With no drainage system in the crawlspace. I have remedied some of this thru agricultural swales, but will have to add a sump pump to drain the remaining surplus..
At first, I thought it was done wrong and the pipe was on top of the footer, until he said "They have a tiny footer." I do this for a living, eighteen years, but I only do a few jobs per year now. In 63 and I can only go about four hours per day. I watched the whole video. It's done 100% correctly.
The largest pest control firm in the world does these are it's horrific . I have about 80 videos that I'm dying to put online. Trash cans for basins. Pedestal -type sump pumps ($70) and they charge $1900. The basin floats up, the pedestal turns over and the system either shuts off or runs until it burns up. They somehow blame the homeowner or the salesman and move on. They went NYSE and they must have ante year plan to maximize profits off their good name and then close it.
Does the footer pipe need to run down hill all around the footer to the sump pump? Or can it be level and water will find its way to the basin ?
Marlboro Matt the best thing to do is dig the ditch first. It's hard work. Pace yourself. Depending on how bad your water problem is, determines how big a ditch you want. Pour the base gravel into the ditch first and make sure it is level using the footer as a guide. We know the footer is flat and level. Put the pipe in, with the holes pointed down and look it over before you pour the next bags of gravel on. You can't make adjustments after that. Flat as a fritter, sir. It will not fail to go to the sump pump. If you try to put slope in it, you'll mess it up. The first one I did nearly killed me. I put in and took out the gravel twice, trying to put slope in it. Apple Drains straightened me out. Watch his videos. He's the man. We Can do just about anything now, but only because of him. And his videos.
@@thetruthchannel4634 have you tried using a laser for slope? Impossible to mess it up that way
EZ Flow. You’re welcome