Freezing the. Seal 3days before installation and be quick about installing. Need to have done before. This guy is correct I heat cover in oven before installing frozen seal .
Good little video as i was up til 4 am this morning ripping the front apart on mine as it created a lake now while you said you can re-use if you screw up i do say false but id only recomond someon that pays attention to detail attempt to fix their honest mistake ive done hundreds of diffrent seals and got rushed and some how it wasnt right but providing nothing got bent or torn the same seal could still be used Another tip is if ypu dont have acces to a press or seal driver tool mesuring cups from the old ladies baking cupboard works ;-) just be prepaired for a night in the dog house
ive started putting black rtv around the inside of my seals the last 4 havnt leaked and ive done probably 40 of these the past 3 months. the stupid plastic sleeve always pops out i havnt been using those except to line up the seal got quite the collection of crankshaft sleeves
The sleeve only really works if you install the seal in the cover and push the cover on over the crank sleeve. If you're just trying to install it without removing the timing cover it's damn near impossible to make the sleeve work properly.
Put the cover face down with 1" press plates on either side of the seal boss and use a puck from my seal driver set between the seal and the press ram.
That plastic is the install sleeve. It is there to get the lip of the seal over the crank without damaging the lip. Once the seal is in, you slide it out and you're done.
@@frannybruhh4882 @frannybruhh4882 that's not a dust sleeve, that's actually an install sleeve. It should stay in just like it comes out of the box, even when installed into the cover. The sleeve is slightly larger on the back side and fits onto the crank snout snugly. This allows the seal and cover to be pushed into place over the crank snout without damaging the seal lips. The seal lips aren't soft rubber. They're a very hard teflon type material and if you ding or deform them any at all they won't seal and you'll be replacing it again immediately.
No I never use a socket to press seals. Sure it works in a pinch, but the rounded face of the socket can damage most types of seal casements by distortion. I use seal and race driver pucks and just put the whole thing in the press instead of using the driving handle and hammer.
Tactical Repair is that what the install tool you linked is for? How would you do it if you didn’t have a press or want to spend $55 on a one time use tool?
Sleeve (like a funnel)allows you to guide and push the cover and new seal onto the crank shaft without damaging the lip of the new seal…once you have the plastic sleeve and cover pushed fully onto the shaft and bolted up…you will slide (pull)the sleeve out of the seal and off the shaft leaving the lip of the new seal making the desired contact on the shaft.
Thank you for the schooling America needs more people like you keep helping the helpless like me appreciate amigo
Freezing the. Seal 3days before installation and be quick about installing. Need to have done before. This guy is correct I heat cover in oven before installing frozen seal .
Good little video as i was up til 4 am this morning ripping the front apart on mine as it created a lake now while you said you can re-use if you screw up i do say false but id only recomond someon that pays attention to detail attempt to fix their honest mistake ive done hundreds of diffrent seals and got rushed and some how it wasnt right but providing nothing got bent or torn the same seal could still be used
Another tip is if ypu dont have acces to a press or seal driver tool mesuring cups from the old ladies baking cupboard works ;-) just be prepaired for a night in the dog house
Your 120% correct for any manufacturer seal installation!
Why is there a black rubber seal on my depth gage can’t figure out which side it goes to
Same here I wish he would have answered . Did you find out ?
Came here to the comments looking for this answer
ive started putting black rtv around the inside of my seals the last 4 havnt leaked and ive done probably 40 of these the past 3 months. the stupid plastic sleeve always pops out i havnt been using those except to line up the seal got quite the collection of crankshaft sleeves
The sleeve only really works if you install the seal in the cover and push the cover on over the crank sleeve. If you're just trying to install it without removing the timing cover it's damn near impossible to make the sleeve work properly.
And that sealant wasn't even what I thought it was. When I actually opened it, turns out it was PTFE thread sealer.🤣
Thanks for the great info. You look like you’re on your third seal lol
Yeah two wrong seals and finally the right one. Had the same issue getting the right rear main.
Super helpful!
My mahle instructions with red outer seal still says apply the loctite 545 type
Yeah that's right. I was mistaken but have no way to edit post upload.
Mine is the steel ring seal and says printed on it 'install lip dry" bit confusing
It means don't put any oil or grease on the seal lips. If you do it will leak. That may be a metallic/ graphite seal.
Thank you for the tips...
Still wondering how you used the press to drive that seal from the inside because it is recessed in the cover housing ?
Put the cover face down with 1" press plates on either side of the seal boss and use a puck from my seal driver set between the seal and the press ram.
So clear plastic stays as apart of the seal? Or is it removed?
That plastic is the install sleeve. It is there to get the lip of the seal over the crank without damaging the lip. Once the seal is in, you slide it out and you're done.
@@tacticalrepairwhat about the dust sleeve? No one talks about how or which way it goes
@@frannybruhh4882 @frannybruhh4882 that's not a dust sleeve, that's actually an install sleeve. It should stay in just like it comes out of the box, even when installed into the cover. The sleeve is slightly larger on the back side and fits onto the crank snout snugly. This allows the seal and cover to be pushed into place over the crank snout without damaging the seal lips. The seal lips aren't soft rubber. They're a very hard teflon type material and if you ding or deform them any at all they won't seal and you'll be replacing it again immediately.
Once you press the seal in, do you remove the depth kit?
Yes. You cannot leave it in.
I bought a front crank seal with the red sealant around it and i was told to used the loctite 545.any ideas?
That should work
Awesome tips. Thanks
That's a good teacher, thanks
Good info
Well done thanks
The plastic stays on? Wasnt on the one i took off
When you install it the shaft pushes it out. It is an install tool that keeps the seal edge from rolling.
Any right way to push the old seal out?
Block of wood, brass drift, hammer.
What do you use to press it in with without damaging the rubber , socket ???
No I never use a socket to press seals. Sure it works in a pinch, but the rounded face of the socket can damage most types of seal casements by distortion. I use seal and race driver pucks and just put the whole thing in the press instead of using the driving handle and hammer.
Thanks man
Tactical Repair is that what the install tool you linked is for? How would you do it if you didn’t have a press or want to spend $55 on a one time use tool?
Is the plastic sleeve supposed fit on the crank ??
Yes
Sleeve (like a funnel)allows you to guide and push the cover and new seal onto the crank shaft without damaging the lip of the new seal…once you have the plastic sleeve and cover pushed fully onto the shaft and bolted up…you will slide (pull)the sleeve out of the seal and off the shaft leaving the lip of the new seal making the desired contact on the shaft.
Is this the same as 4bt? Great vid!
yes it is
Do you recommend wear sleeves. Mine has 333,000 miles and leaks like a sieve.. from from main and side cover..
Yes I do. No downside to using them.
Just buy the cummins installation tool
What was the tool on the front
The depth gauge that comes with the seal.