Great Idea, I've used the space under the seats for a while, but after viewing this, I know I don't have to get my guests out of their seat to get in the space!! I've watched many of your videos, and I must thank you for sharing your ideas!!!!
Thank you for your support. Stay tuned for more videos this year. I recently sold my Class C and purchased a Fifth Wheel, and I have many projects lined up for this year.
Many of my videos are generic enough that they apply to not only motorhomes but any kind of RV. Although the only icon in the Garmin 760LMT is for a motorhome, I see no reason you cannot use it with a 5th wheel as well. The main advantages of the 760LMT are that there are RV parks, repair facilities, etc. loaded in the database. As well, you can enter the size of your RV (length - height - width - weight) and it will tell you (hopefully) if there is a low bridge up ahead, or if a bridge cannot support your rig's weight. For a motorhome, of course you would simply enter the values. For a 5th wheel, I would enter the combined values of the 5th wheel and truck. As well, the 760LMT can be placed in RV or Auto mode. In Auto mode, it ignores the dimensional restrictions of the RV.
After watching your videos on the 760LMT, I went to Garmin's website to get additional information and found they have a 660LMT which I presume is the new model. RAM does not carry a specific case for it though, only a "universal" type... I agree with you, those suction cup mounts don't do a very good job!
Very Nice and clean installation. Looking to do this on our Keystone Passport. I like the magnet latch, I thought about applying the door face to the end of the box too.
I had originally made the door independent from the slide out box because I had this crazy idea to put a cellphone charging station on the front of the box. For example, open the door and you will access a charging station on the front of the slide out box. But I canned that idea after it's likely complexity.
Very nice work. It's nice to see quality and care in construction. Too nice for an RV. ;) A couple of thoughts for others who may not be as handy. Not criticism of your project. 1/2 ply drawer box with a groove near the bottom for a floating drawer bottom. Plenty strong enough for it's purpose. Dado lap the corners or even butt joint w/glue. Strong enough. Although your joint IS stronger and prettier, wasted effort except for pride of craftsmanship. Not a bad thing. I like overkill too. Attach the "door" to the box, it would save hardware and effort to align door. Thank you for the video.
this is the same problem I'm working on right now! I can't believe they (the RV makers) would just leave the under-area of the dinette seats w/o any kind of access to use it for storage, strange. It's not like we have a ton of other storage spaces around, that's actually my only complaint concerning my RV, lack of storage.
Very well done. Our travel trailer came with a factory installed cabinet door on one dinette bench but not the other (who thought that ever made sense!) I was able to get a matching door from the manufacturer and I will build slide-out drawers in mine as well. One question, you mentioned not attaching the drawer bottom but I must have heard wrong, how did you join the bottom? I use dado'd channels for my drawer bottoms but box joints make that method tricky. Curious how you do your bottoms with box joints.
The bottom fits into the drawer with dados. I have an associated webpage for the video showing more detail: www.rv-project.com/projects/cabinets.php This is necessary to allow for expansion - especially in an outdoors environment. Otherwise the drawer would be subject to cracking or warping.
I originally was going to put a storage bin in the front of the sliding drawer so when you opened the door, you would have immediate access to those things in the bin without having to slide out the drawer. But I decided half way through the project to omit the bin.
The most basic joint is a butt joint. It isn't as strong though as a box or dovetail joint, but you can use this joint without specialty tools. Visit my project webpage for additional information: www.rv-project.com/projects/cabinets.php
Thank you so much for that info on plaining your 3/4 to I/2. And everything else. I love woodworking but I am extremely wet behind the ears. Don't have the $ to go to school. Thank you X 10000000000 =)
I have not been there in a couple of years, so I don't know what their current stock is. But they should have a lot more than what they have on their website.
SKPjoe Coursegold The drawer weighs 9lbs. so you are correct, I could have probably saved 6lbs. by going with a tray. Since the dinette is on a Schwintek slide out system, I was weight-sensitive, as I didn't want to over-burden the slide motors with too much weight. The primary reason I went with the drawer height is I figured all the bouncing around as I drive down the road might allow something to bounce out of a tray and roll around loose inside the cabinet.
Amazing job ..but was wondering why you didn't just attach the door front to the drawer and have a catch on it to hold it in place ..regardless great work 👍
Good video and nice work..Just wondering why you didn't mount the door to the drawer?..I do this for work and thought about drawers but with no slide its not worth it so I'm going to hinge the ply on top.. Lots of room under there.
I had originally thought to build a charging station for eDevices (smart phone, tablet, etc), that by opening the door there would be a holder attached to the front of the drawer, along with USB connections. That way, just opening the door would access the charging system. But it kind of changed half-way through the project.
I'm sorry, I dont get it.. why didnt you just put hinges on the top of the storage area? You already have it off to get to the inside space... Two or three small hinges and you could have utilized the whole space not just a drawer of space.. yes it looks nice but let's face it storage is a necessity and you kinda wasted alot of it, but well done. :)
I actually tried to install piano hinges on the tops of the seats but they were so cheaply made that there was no suitable place to install them. I would have had to rebuild the cabinets to accommodate the hinges. The tops were only about 3/8" thick, not thick enough to keep the screws used to install the hinges from falling out.
Great Idea, I've used the space under the seats for a while, but after viewing this, I know I don't have to get my guests out of their seat to get in the space!!
I've watched many of your videos, and I must thank you for sharing your ideas!!!!
Thank you for your support. Stay tuned for more videos this year. I recently sold my Class C and purchased a Fifth Wheel, and I have many projects lined up for this year.
+RVProject Does your Garmin in your other videos have an option for a fifth wheel or travel Trailer?
Many of my videos are generic enough that they apply to not only motorhomes but any kind of RV.
Although the only icon in the Garmin 760LMT is for a motorhome, I see no reason you cannot use it with a 5th wheel as well. The main advantages of the 760LMT are that there are RV parks, repair facilities, etc. loaded in the database.
As well, you can enter the size of your RV (length - height - width - weight) and it will tell you (hopefully) if there is a low bridge up ahead, or if a bridge cannot support your rig's weight.
For a motorhome, of course you would simply enter the values. For a 5th wheel, I would enter the combined values of the 5th wheel and truck.
As well, the 760LMT can be placed in RV or Auto mode. In Auto mode, it ignores the dimensional restrictions of the RV.
After watching your videos on the 760LMT, I went to Garmin's website to get additional information and found they have a 660LMT which I presume is the new model.
RAM does not carry a specific case for it though, only a "universal" type... I agree with you, those suction cup mounts don't do a very good job!
Thanks again for all your ideas and help!!
Very Nice and clean installation. Looking to do this on our Keystone Passport. I like the magnet latch, I thought about applying the door face to the end of the box too.
I had originally made the door independent from the slide out box because I had this crazy idea to put a cellphone charging station on the front of the box. For example, open the door and you will access a charging station on the front of the slide out box.
But I canned that idea after it's likely complexity.
You always have an innovative approach to projects. Keep the content coming.
Nice woodworking skills! And tool envy, big time!
Thank you for your support of the channel.
Very nice work. It's nice to see quality and care in construction. Too nice for an RV. ;)
A couple of thoughts for others who may not be as handy. Not criticism of your project.
1/2 ply drawer box with a groove near the bottom for a floating drawer bottom. Plenty strong enough for it's purpose. Dado lap the corners or even butt joint w/glue. Strong enough. Although your joint IS stronger and prettier, wasted effort except for pride of craftsmanship. Not a bad thing. I like overkill too.
Attach the "door" to the box, it would save hardware and effort to align door.
Thank you for the video.
You should build your own rv. Very cool mod!
this is the same problem I'm working on right now! I can't believe they (the RV makers) would just leave the under-area of the dinette seats w/o any kind of access to use it for storage, strange. It's not like we have a ton of other storage spaces around, that's actually my only complaint concerning my RV, lack of storage.
I know what you mean.
Bravo, well done.
Nice job! It looks really good.
Very well done. Our travel trailer came with a factory installed cabinet door on one dinette bench but not the other (who thought that ever made sense!) I was able to get a matching door from the manufacturer and I will build slide-out drawers in mine as well. One question, you mentioned not attaching the drawer bottom but I must have heard wrong, how did you join the bottom? I use dado'd channels for my drawer bottoms but box joints make that method tricky. Curious how you do your bottoms with box joints.
The bottom fits into the drawer with dados. I have an associated webpage for the video showing more detail: www.rv-project.com/projects/cabinets.php
This is necessary to allow for expansion - especially in an outdoors environment. Otherwise the drawer would be subject to cracking or warping.
Great work (thanks for the video)
I would attach the door fronts onto the drawer instead of opening the door and then pulling the drawer.
I originally was going to put a storage bin in the front of the sliding drawer so when you opened the door, you would have immediate access to those things in the bin without having to slide out the drawer. But I decided half way through the project to omit the bin.
I agree.
How did you find matching hardware for you rv?
Ques? I don't have a tool to make a box joint. Can you suggest another type I can use?
The most basic joint is a butt joint. It isn't as strong though as a box or dovetail joint, but you can use this joint without specialty tools.
Visit my project webpage for additional information: www.rv-project.com/projects/cabinets.php
Thank you so much for that info on plaining your 3/4 to I/2. And everything else. I love woodworking but I am extremely wet behind the ears. Don't have the $ to go to school. Thank you X 10000000000 =)
Inspired me enough to subscribe 👍
Thanks.
Be sure to watch the over 400 RV topic videos on my channel.
Will you come build these for my rv lol. Great work, this is awesome!
Thank you for supporting the channel.
Nice wood working tools!
Very nice work.
Could you give me the name of the TR junkyard you went to to get the doors, in elkhart
factoryrvsurplus.com/
I have not been there in a couple of years, so I don't know what their current stock is. But they should have a lot more than what they have on their website.
great project. great result. thanks for sharing.
only thing i'd do differently, is make a tray instead of the drawer, for less weight.
SKPjoe Coursegold The drawer weighs 9lbs. so you are correct, I could have probably saved 6lbs. by going with a tray. Since the dinette is on a Schwintek slide out system, I was weight-sensitive, as I didn't want to over-burden the slide motors with too much weight.
The primary reason I went with the drawer height is I figured all the bouncing around as I drive down the road might allow something to bounce out of a tray and roll around loose inside the cabinet.
Amazing job ..but was wondering why you didn't just attach the door front to the drawer and have a catch on it to hold it in place ..regardless great work 👍
super awesome wish I could do that
What model Rv is this?
This was in a 2011 Four Winds Z28 Class C motorhome.
@@RVProject thank you. Its a nice rv.
What kind of router bit you sued and where can I get one?
Visit my project webpage for additional information: www.rv-project.com/projects/cabinets.php
how much roo did you need
No kangaroos were harmed in this video.
Good video and nice work..Just wondering why you didn't mount the door to the drawer?..I do this for work and thought about drawers but with no slide its not worth it so I'm going to hinge the ply on top.. Lots of room under there.
I had originally thought to build a charging station for eDevices (smart phone, tablet, etc), that by opening the door there would be a holder attached to the front of the drawer, along with USB connections. That way, just opening the door would access the charging system.
But it kind of changed half-way through the project.
I'm sorry, I dont get it.. why didnt you just put hinges on the top of the storage area? You already have it off to get to the inside space... Two or three small hinges and you could have utilized the whole space not just a drawer of space.. yes it looks nice but let's face it storage is a necessity and you kinda wasted alot of it, but well done. :)
I actually tried to install piano hinges on the tops of the seats but they were so cheaply made that there was no suitable place to install them.
I would have had to rebuild the cabinets to accommodate the hinges. The tops were only about 3/8" thick, not thick enough to keep the screws used to install the hinges from falling out.
Dislike! Don’t like watching masters at work. I’d have my sawzall out - watch this and need to drink beer to feel better. :). Great job.
I used to get my hammer out when "Home Improvement" came on TV.