Great video, do you have a new camera? I think the chattering on the mill is because it was "Down cut" milling. Basically most of the milling cutter was cutting in the same direction that the bed was travelling in. Some mills can handle this but its generally better to do "Upcut" milling. On the second cut the milling cutter was much more symetrical with the work, and there wasnt so much vibration. Incidently for fun you can make those kind of cuts on your lathe with the four jaw. In the Navy we only had a lathe and had to learn how to do a lot of milling tasks with it. Making a cube is a fun one. It all takes longer though! Great work!
No, same camera, but now using a Rhode lapel mic - mostly. Doesn't enormously help in reducing machine noise. I know it as "climb milling" or "conventional milling". I kind of thought that as most of the tool was on the work it didn't matter, but perhaps I was wrong.
Ahh, the old inclusive angle mistake, been there! can't fault the end result though Samuel, well done! glad you're making chips at last, now I guess you can grind that 3 jaw chuck a bit more concentric, cheers Dave
I thought I'd get rid of the bell mouthed jaws on the 3-jaw this way. But I think the excessive run out is down to the scroll being over tightened by someone in the past. The run out is actually quite good at much larger diameter workpieces.
Well done Samuel, I have a small mill that does the same thing, what drawingboard82 said is true, just have to work out which way of cut is better. The other thing I have discovered is if it's vibrating in the chuck just slow it down, just because they say you should be cutting at a certain speed doesn't mean you have to. Watch David Richards, Old Steam Powered Shop (I think that's what it's called.) nothing runs fast there even with carbite tooling. Well done again, over time you will get used to remembering how deep you have cut, I used to write everything down, each cut depth and so on. Only practice makes perfect.
Hi Samuel, may I ask you why you didn't use the 43mm (I think it is) cylindrical boss on the end? As far as I know it is there for clamping the tool.. BTW: I admire your perseverance on your lathe restoration, watched all episodes and have subscribed to your channel. Cheers Ard
If David is correct with the leading/trailing edge then maybe the head needs tramming in a touch (if it will). It sounded to me though like something was loose. Maybe the toolholder in the spindle or perhaps one of the inserts needs a tighten? The finish was pretty poor as well which adds weight. Did you tighten the Y and Z axis when using the shell mill? Rigidity is King. I'm going to sound uninteresting now but the boring bar was much too small for the amount of stickout it had. As for the inclusive angle trick it would be really nice to think that it won't happen again... I've followed your rebuild documentary with interest as I have an M300. They'll take some huge depth of cuts too. You set out to build a grinder attachment and you did, so that's a success. Well done and thanks for taking the time to produce these videos Samuel.
I know the head is trammed really well. That shell mill produced a really good finish on aluminium, cutting on both the leading and trailing edges. I thought the sound came from up in the head where its gears are, but perhaps the spindle transmitted it up there. Everyting was locked. As I said, that was the biggest boring bar I have (because for the Chinese minilathe). Must get a bigger one.
@@samuelfielder Thanks for replying Samuel. It was a hell of a noise. Resonance perhaps? Maybe try a different speed or feed. Are the inserts for steel or are they designed for cutting Al? Jenny at JB Tooling near Sheffield have some reasonably priced boring bars and APT are very good with an excellent dispatch service too. It's worth trying to replicate that noise so you can either fix it or work around it.
Sounded to me like either (a) the spindle bearings area bit loose or (b) the rigidity of the mill head is inadequate for that type of cut. I had aSieg mill ‐ similar to yours - and it rattled just like that when I asked too much of it. Even though I wasn't asking a lot! I have a Harrison 600 mill now, so the problem has gone away. Good work on the grinder holder though, despite the double angle thingy.
Could be. Cutting aluminium with that shell mill (which is very well trammed) it makes a beautiful finish. Less so with this steel. I rather thought some of the noise was coming from the head of the mill, but didn't dare look into it!
Thank you for sharing your project. I appreciate you taking the time to do so. Good to see you working at both the milling machine and lathe. 👏👏👍😀
Great video, do you have a new camera? I think the chattering on the mill is because it was "Down cut" milling. Basically most of the milling cutter was cutting in the same direction that the bed was travelling in. Some mills can handle this but its generally better to do "Upcut" milling. On the second cut the milling cutter was much more symetrical with the work, and there wasnt so much vibration. Incidently for fun you can make those kind of cuts on your lathe with the four jaw. In the Navy we only had a lathe and had to learn how to do a lot of milling tasks with it. Making a cube is a fun one. It all takes longer though! Great work!
No, same camera, but now using a Rhode lapel mic - mostly. Doesn't enormously help in reducing machine noise. I know it as "climb milling" or "conventional milling". I kind of thought that as most of the tool was on the work it didn't matter, but perhaps I was wrong.
Safer to remove the tool post wrench when turning, nice work
Ahh, the old inclusive angle mistake, been there! can't fault the end result though Samuel, well done! glad you're making chips at last, now I guess you can grind that 3 jaw chuck a bit more concentric, cheers Dave
I thought I'd get rid of the bell mouthed jaws on the 3-jaw this way. But I think the excessive run out is down to the scroll being over tightened by someone in the past. The run out is actually quite good at much larger diameter workpieces.
Well done Samuel, I have a small mill that does the same thing, what drawingboard82 said is true, just have to work out which way of cut is better. The other thing I have discovered is if it's vibrating in the chuck just slow it down, just because they say you should be cutting at a certain speed doesn't mean you have to. Watch David Richards, Old Steam Powered Shop (I think that's what it's called.) nothing runs fast there even with carbite tooling. Well done again, over time you will get used to remembering how deep you have cut, I used to write everything down, each cut depth and so on. Only practice makes perfect.
Hi Samuel, may I ask you why you didn't use the 43mm (I think it is) cylindrical boss on the end? As far as I know it is there for clamping the tool..
BTW: I admire your perseverance on your lathe restoration, watched all episodes and have subscribed to your channel. Cheers Ard
Well Done, nice lathe you have there.
Nice so long as I don't mind cutting tapers always.
If David is correct with the leading/trailing edge then maybe the head needs tramming in a touch (if it will). It sounded to me though like something was loose. Maybe the toolholder in the spindle or perhaps one of the inserts needs a tighten? The finish was pretty poor as well which adds weight. Did you tighten the Y and Z axis when using the shell mill? Rigidity is King.
I'm going to sound uninteresting now but the boring bar was much too small for the amount of stickout it had. As for the inclusive angle trick it would be really nice to think that it won't happen again...
I've followed your rebuild documentary with interest as I have an M300. They'll take some huge depth of cuts too.
You set out to build a grinder attachment and you did, so that's a success. Well done and thanks for taking the time to produce these videos Samuel.
I know the head is trammed really well. That shell mill produced a really good finish on aluminium, cutting on both the leading and trailing edges. I thought the sound came from up in the head where its gears are, but perhaps the spindle transmitted it up there. Everyting was locked. As I said, that was the biggest boring bar I have (because for the Chinese minilathe). Must get a bigger one.
@@samuelfielder Thanks for replying Samuel. It was a hell of a noise. Resonance perhaps? Maybe try a different speed or feed. Are the inserts for steel or are they designed for cutting Al? Jenny at JB Tooling near Sheffield have some reasonably priced boring bars and APT are very good with an excellent dispatch service too. It's worth trying to replicate that noise so you can either fix it or work around it.
Sounded to me like either (a) the spindle bearings area bit loose or (b) the rigidity of the mill head is inadequate for that type of cut. I had aSieg mill ‐ similar to yours - and it rattled just like that when I asked too much of it. Even though I wasn't asking a lot! I have a Harrison 600 mill now, so the problem has gone away. Good work on the grinder holder though, despite the double angle thingy.
Me too. Nice little mill. Extremely capable.
The horrible noise began when Lead and Trailing cutting tips are in contact with the cut face, Trailing tip does another cut.
Could be. Cutting aluminium with that shell mill (which is very well trammed) it makes a beautiful finish. Less so with this steel. I rather thought some of the noise was coming from the head of the mill, but didn't dare look into it!
To fast for drilling 20 mil