As an American. I love your Russian / Ukrainian accent. You do not need to use a bot. I am working on my own experiments with cheap reflective films, using fences to build motionless dish with moving receivers for cheap solar heat.
If you have clouds, your mirror is useless. TOPcon, PERC, PERT, IBC, perovsktes, GaN, CIGS SiaH etc. do not need concentrators. 3 - 4 junction panels, need concentrated energy,.
I would like to see results with a simple, stiff hollow cylinder, say 0.5m diameter and 10 cm deep, with airtight back and reflective film stretched over the front edge and glued, and then air pumped out of the cavity. The internal vacuum would curve the film to mathematical precision limited only by the flatness of the cylinder edge. I don't know whether it would tend to a spherical, parabolic, hyperbolic, catenary, or other curve, but with a small enough deflection the difference from an ideal parabolic curve would not matter much.
I downvoted and prepared to leave when I heard the bot voice, but stayed just long enough to see the beginning of the main content. It was great! So I upvoted and even subscribed. Please avoid using bot voices, since there is so much AI garbage on youtube already. I don't need to hear perfect English, just be human please 😊
I think that you may want to reverse your process as follows, 1. Make circular frame, and tack on the reflection film, 2. " Top down effect" by pouring water into frame to achieve the curve in the film, 3. Use aircrete ( cement with soap bubbles) instead of foam, as the backing, 4. Place Air Crete under the curve made by water ( spray glue may be needed on the film to make it stick to the Air Crete, Green power science did this with wayer and clear plastic to make a large parabola curves,
1) Obtain a round satellite dish. 2) Make the back of the dish rough. (Glued on sandpaper strips should work) 3) Use the course dish to carve out the parabolic shape into a piece of rigid foam board. (A machine to spin the disc at a reasonable speed would be ideal). 4) Apply spray adhesive to the carved out foam board. 5) Stretch the mylar tight over foam board and then use the satellite dish to press it uniformly into the foam board cavity.
I agree: I prefer your natural voice, rather than the bot. You are making good progress. I am not sure why you are focusing on circular mirrors, rather than linear mirrors, because you can hotwire rigid foam with CAD created parabolic templates very accurately, and hopefully create a very fine focus.
Sergyi! Look into these topics to solve your problem: 1: AirCrete - Lightweight, foamed cement/lime. 2: large pottery making with sand/rotating templates and pouring concrete. I think you can solve it like that and get much stronger, and still very light mirrors. 😊👍
Spun aluminum or copper could be made in the same shape and polished to a high reflection then coated to prevent oxidation. When the coating degrades, you remove it, polish and coat again.
Hello Sergiy, love your work and want to build a rotating table on which paraboloids can be cast from plaster or concrete. I imagine one can make a concave paraboloid, in it a convex paraboloid, and use both as a heavy mold. A foil bag can be put in between them when they are spaced apart by 2-5 cm, and PU foam can be put in the bag. Then the foam will expand to fill the gap and exactly reproduce the shape.
Ok, but you're trying to make 1 solid mirror, and to make it from a sheet of mylar that doesn't want to stretch. If you're looking to make a focused point of light, that is say 3 inches, then if you simply make a frame that holds flat 3" mirrors that are hex shaped, then you can make the same mirror, but can replace individual mirror modules as needed from a mylar blanket such as you've shown. Additionally, each hex module can actually protect the mylar film, without adding significantly to the cost. Glass, or acrylic, etc, two piece units, where the reflective material is sandwiched inside. Individual reflectors could be replaced instead of rebuilding the entire reflector and because they use a hex lattice, they can be scaled as large as you want if you add more modules to the frame.
Done right, I believe this is the most efficient form Solar Power. Some Day I want to setup a larger one of these that boils water to drive a steam motor, and so- produce electricity. Another really cheap way DIY Solar system (though a bit more expensive) is with black piping (can even spray the pipe black with spray paint if it's not already black), then pump water through it, if it is long enough it should boil and you can run a steam motor the same way, and get hot water at the same time. Nice video! Just a tip- maybe don't use a bot voice in the beginning, it might drive People away before they give the video a chance.
I have an idea. Have a hole in the center. Have foam/glue on the perimeter and around the hole, with a gap for airflow. Vacuum out all the air and hold that until the glue sets. I think if you did this with something like plexiglass shaped desirably it will be fairly cheap and easy to reproduce as well as a more durable.
Sergiy please do your own voice it is much more pleasant to hear. Keep up the good work! You inspired me to create solar water heater from an old Litho Light Table scraped by printing-house. It is working flawlessly for last two years. All summer I have more than enough hot water. It has dual purpose -Glass table on terrace and hot water heater. Thank you for being an inspiration.
I saw someone make a mirror like that, they made a hole in the little of their disc shape and then used vacuum to pull back the film into the concave shape and thus sticking to the glue. Now I don't know how the styrofoam might stand up to vacuum. Mut it might be something to look into! Hope it helps!
Loved this idea and your zeal for a cheap solar mirror. To assist you in your endeavor, I would suggest rather than applying foam/glue, use vacuum. Build a metal cuboid with two square surfaces and depth more than depth of the dish required with all edges welded air tight. Coat the edges with some paint so that it remain air-tight. Drill a circle of required diameter on one square side. On back side of it drill a small hole and insert a metal tube in it and weld it in place. Paste a reflective film on the front side. After the film is stuck tight, start sucking air from the tube on back side. As air is sucked out it will form a perfect concave dish without any folds or wrinkle on the sheet. Close the back side tube with pin. The air tight ness of the sheet as well as box matters most here. The smoothness of circular hole also matters most. Please try and let us know. All the best.
What about using pieces of bamboo? Split a bamboo into 4-8 sections with the mirror film glued to the inside of 75-100+ mm diameter bits of bamboo a meter long if more or less. Depending on what is required . Another idea is using air to make the dish like in the video, only use fiberglass on the film glued on first. Then add air. Attachment points can be add to the back side. Use a thin fiberglass and resin roll it on. Add air before it sets up. Even paper, cloth many things can also be used. Not really worth carbon fiber, but cotton cloth synthetic cloth or silk pre Made fiberglass attachment points can be made and glued on with resin. I would love to build a 1kw steam engine generator powered by the sun. Then maybe use propane, methanol, CNG, something with a low boiling temperature. To replace water. Maybe a mixture , propane and methanol possibly. Or CNG and methanol gasoline and propane, gasoline and CNG, the difficult part may be getting it to return to a liquid. Maybe a small refrigerant compressor can be ran at the same time as the generator. Used in short cycles to chill the gas to liquid to start the cycle over again. A pump pumping liquid through the boiler. A iron block with passages through it. For liquid And a area for gasses to collect and be heated just before the engine request it. Heat the gas well into the boiling point , and use a similar cooper or brass block with refrigerant passages chill, the gas to liquid to be stored until needed. It would be awesome if was effiecent was enough to use thermal electrics to make it work..
Could you do a video on a complete system? The mirror to heat the oil line or whatever to go through a diy generator that would change the heat to electricity to run 100 to 200 watts of appliances? I love your idea for solar mirrors. Edit: I can see how the oil would go through a heat radiator to heat, but would like electricity too.
Also: if you use foam intended for fitting windows/doors you'll find it is manufactured to expand less aggressively and more slowly. It spreads the force more equally.
Please, speak with your own voice. Listening to a human that speaks with emotion and intonation is much easier and better than listening to a text-to-speech generated voice. Do not worry about people not understanding you -- subtitles that you create by hand are really helpful.
I really value your videos because you focus so much on the cost / benefit ratio. One thing I've been interested in for quite some time, but not really done a lot of experiments in this area, is to create your own water-resistant / proof foam. I don't mean expanding foam like the polyeurathane foam, I mean something like creating a foam from glue that dries out and leaves the foam in place, similar to the foam you can create with washing up llquid, but where it dries in place and stays there. Also, what about using polystyrene foam but using something like a cheap, large CNC machine carve the surface of the foam into the shape you want? And then spraying the surface with glue, and expanding the film onto the surface? Ideally, what you want is a kind of fine grain, reticulated foam made from a rigid material where you can spray the surface with glue, and then expand the film onto it using air pressure, so that it all touches the surface of the rigid foam at the same time everywhere, and that would be both light, rigid and relatively cheap.
just a thought, Sergiy can you make a exact opposite of the satillite dish and sandwich the polysterene and mirror when glued in between the 2 satellite dishes and place them in a vacuum bag and remove all of the air thus forcing the polysterene and reflective film together possibly with a smoother finish, if you are trying this method, try using contact adhesive(rubber based) instead of expanding foam this might help in the smoothness of the finished product, i just realised when typing you dont need a negative satellite dish just 2 the same size to sandwich the polysterene between getting the polysterence smooth on the side where the reflective foil is going to be will be tricky,but hopefully the vacuum bag trick will work, i would also look into whether when in a vacuum bag any steps you might need to take to prevent slippage of the mould before the glue is solid, but under vacuum that might not happen, who knows ?? good luck Sergiy :) :)
There are now A.I. tools that will keep your voice but translate it into other languages. They are far better than text-to-speech bots because they retain your expression and mannerisms and only change the language. Your work is invaluable and I hope you get funding and consulting work with the American Climate Corps and your ideas are used to rebuild Ukraine back better. Thank you for all you do!
There a some concern about mirrors vs solar panels - dust. Dust on solar panel lower efficiency on 10-20%, but on mirror it drop efficiency drastically - so you need keep in mind cleaning and maintance. Nice work and good luck
Pretty smart! As a roofer I am usually asked to remove old satellite dishes and I could collect quite a few of them. I wonder if I could polish one to a mirror finish? Or cover with that film
Next idea: create paraboloid Male CNC mold. Heat reflective mylar in a enclosure, then vacuum form mylar(only) to male mold; then apply backing material, like spray PU in a polyethylene 'bag', with spray adhesive on side to bond to back of mirror material on male mold still, and then vacuum form PE bag to back of mirror, remove from mold.
Maybe if you were to use a hairdryer or heat gun, you might be able to shrink the plastic sheeting tight. Hello, from Detroit Michigan USA. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. And expertise have a blessed day
Hello ! Have you seen on youtube how peopes does big cement flower pots with a sand mold shaped with a rotative spade ? Maybe make that, then you got a cement matrix to make dozens of them, thinner than with foam, reinforced with some clothes sunk into it. For the reflective material, I can't see less interesting than thin stainless steel sheet. It is more expensive, but you haven't to throw it to landfill and make new one every years. Wish you to be safe and happy, cheer !
Polyurethane foam expands because it reacts with moisture. You should spray some on a peace of cardboard and spray it with some water. This will cause the foam to expand immediately. You then scoop it up and place it in the mold. Not only will you get minimal expansion during setting, but your panels will also be much lighter because the foam is fully expanded. I saw an artist use this technique to make foam statues.
Sergiy ...... I am not sure weather or not you read the comments, but just in case I have an idea to improve the wrinkles out of your mirrors. You show a video of gluing a circle and inflating the film with a pump. This seems a good way to produce a parabolic surface. Why not coat the pumped up surface with a thin layer of an epoxy resin? That would give you a clean flat and stronger surface that you could then eather add more epoxy to give a complete mirror or use your expanding foam to bulk up the back of the mirror! I think the relative expense of epoxy v foam would mean a thin layer of epoxy to stop wrinkles and then foam would be the cheapest way. This also has the advantage of being fairly easily scaleable to fairly large surfaces. A similar technique could be used to produce linear parabolic mirrors like those seen in power plants. Obviously it would need a mould but instead of inflating it you would only need to glue the ends and stretch them apart slightly to give a taught surface to apply the epoxy to. All the best.
Instead of polyurethane foam, to begin with, you can cover your inflated film bubble with epoxy resin of proper consistency for soft brushing. Try thin milled vermiculite from garden store as a thickening agent. In order to assure from overspreading, give some slow rotation to a base for a while, the rotation axis is slightly inclined from the vertical, about 5 .. 10 deg. Once epoxy layer is cured, apply ordinary foam in a way that was shown in your video.
There are multiple ways you can make a parabolic shaped dish. 1. Use a resin and spin it around. The resin will turn into a dish shape from centrifugal force. 2. Take a piece of wood and turn it just like how wooden bowls are made. Or even by carving. 3. 3d prin parts and put them together. As for adding a mirror polish; there are mirror sprays that could work.
Take a black pocket garden hose and roll into a coil. Wrap with duct tape and fill with water then leave hose onto mylar space blanket foil. Leave in the sun and you can have hot water for shower, washing etc. Have several setup and your hit water needs are met. Have some large size thermos bottles filled and store overnight then first thing in morning you can fill a "Solar Shower" bag and have a warm shower.
I think you should try vibrating dish during the foam setting. It may help with more uniform coverage and reduce wrinkles. That's a nice project cheers
Another way you could build a cheap and easy pattern out of foam then suspend a router from a string/steel wire from a point above the pattern. You could then work it back and forth and it would create a concave shape then from that point you could cover the concave pattern with plastic film, then fill in the concave shape to create a large positive convex pattern that you could then sandwich the Myler and some expanding foam to build a concave mirror.
That would create a spherical shape, a parabola is more efficient, either by deepening the center, flattening the mid ring, or a combination of both, like a telescope mirror.
Your accent is charming; with proper subtitles, it’s fine! Robo-voices have become synonymous with bad merchants selling fake stuff. Using a parabolic mirror to heat fluid-water, or a combo of water + antifreeze substance (please use a non-toxic kind; it can be salt, or glycerine, etc)-can heat water for household use, including bathing, laundry, & heating the indoor space, very well. May I suggest, to build parabolic troughs to be covered with tempered glass-that keeps weather & debris out of them, so, helps the components last better, even when using the Mylar-type reflective film? But the things do get wicked-hot-can melt plastic. Especially if the opening is covered by tempered glass. It’s better to use a stainless steel mirror surface. Then, run a straight copper tube (no rust) along the center, painted black with high-temp stove paint, above the mirror surface, kind of centered along the space, so the mirror reflects all along the tube. The linear parabola can stay in one place, & still create hot fluid in the tube, when the parabola trough is sited East/West, with the opening facing south (in N. hemisphere), & the opening rotated on its axis to be perpendicular to the latitude your property is at. (Ours is about 45* latitude, so, a parabola here, would be positioned so the flat glass front is at 45* pointing south) Old water heaters can be converted into half-decent parabolas, by using half sections, & inserting reflective sheets formed in the proper parabolic elipse, then, insulated on the back to hold the shape. It can be all set-into a framework, or even into the ground if on a hill. The hot tube can be connected with in-floor radiant tubing, to heat floors; if sited just below the floor or water heater level. it can circulate the fluid pretty much without a pump, because the hot water rises, & the cooler water falls. You may need an expansion tank. Similarly, can make a tubing coil that fits into an insulated tank to heat hot water.
*You should have used fast-curing ultra light weight plaster on the first Air-pressure formed mold and it would have been successful. Also plaster lasts for 400 years in sunlight and the outside elements.*
instead of using expanding foam that will always give a rough surface. you could try epoxy with a little isopropanol alcohol to thin it out so it could make a thin layer of nearly glass like smoothness then once hard you could add the spray foam for added support . it would be a little more expensive and time consuming but it could potentially give you flawless results
На украинском языке просмотров не будет. Раньше, когда ролики были на русском, много (относительно) было просмотров из РФ, сейчас монетизацию убрали (за просморты из России не платят), а украинские просмотры и раньше приносили копейки автору, а сейчас - и подавно. Если человеку так выгоднее, то это хорошо, что он выпускает ролики на английском. Чем больше заработает, тем больше будет денег и времени на новые эксперименты. Надеюсь, Сергей покинул "нэньку" и не попадёт в бус "незламности". Такие люди нужны человечеству живыми.
Amazing. Please let me know on the idea on how to bring the concave shape to the EPS and also if I can laser cut the small mirrors onto the dish, EPS dish. For cooking rice.
Fantastic work ! Thanks for sharing it. Your English is easily understood so maybe the AI voice isn’t needed. Personally I don’t care, but so many others rush to judgement without giving you half a chance. It’s their loss ❤
What comes to mind are colanders. Some of them are already paraboloid shaped and they have holes in them so you can heat the film and then vacuum form it directly onto the inner surface of the colander. There must exist massive colanders for industrial processes that are massive. If you got one of those, you could have a giant mirror. But the smaller ones can be very cheap if plastic. That, however, would make it harder to reuse the colander and the entire mirror would be thrown out after a couple years. If you used metal, it would be more expensive but you could replace the film more easily by simply stripping it or dissolving it and it would hold its shape better during its life.
You need to spray the back of it with spray mount basically a contact adhesive first then wait about 20 minutes and start spraying it with a filler paint probably about 3 or 4 coats.. the idea of greymouth is to stick to the reflective surface and the paint will make a hard surface you can then use spray foam which should not distort the mirror as it.. there may be something more suitable than paint which is harder but that you will have to experiment with
Brother, instead of stretching a whole sheet to fit your base perfectly, please use smaller pieces of polystyrene. It will be more work, but your mirror will have more finish. You can use pre-made stencils to cut shapes of exactly the same size.
I have been inspired by your research and have done some of my own. I have seen that some companies put their mirrors in green houses (glass houses), so for a slight drop in light they can use very flimsy mirrors that don't even need cleaning. Have you considered such an approach?
a few things might help : a heat gun could apply gentle heat to the film during stretching, thus smoothing out those ridges. Secondly a second 'satellite dish' hard smooth surface, covered in something like plastic wrap could provide the ideal shell for weight application - like a sandwich. so you would have 1 dish, sealed and smooth that will have the film applied over it. Stretch the film and apply gentle heat to work out wrinkles and folds, then a thin layer of foam (which may have better solutions in the future), then a second dish, which is sealed and smoothed on the inside with a layer of plastic wrap if needed to keep the foam from sticking to it. apply clamps or weight as needed, wait until the foam is cured, then remove everything. This should make a more uniform 'bowl' dish shape, smooth and focus easier.
The most important factor of being lightweight is that it can be controlled by a rotating small, very small motor so that it can be directed by the sun's movement from east to west. I qas thinking of connecting nxn panels in a frame with motor in the centre and the sheet on top of it. Concentrated plant can produce thousands of degree celsius of thermal energy. All the large industries can make use of this instead of furnace. Ps: special construction required.
Hey my friend - why not consider old satellite dishes, cleaned with a vacuum hole at the back. Apply glue/silicone to outer edges and centre of reflective film. Vacuum the mirror till glued? An idea of mine going down the rabbit hole of cheap home mirror production, that I haven't the time or money to investigate.... There must be thousands of old satellite dishes now not needed.?? Great presentation of stages of testing your ideas... don't listen to anyone about your voice! As my first language to degree level - English is a very difficult language, when you are concentrating on oral punctuation and grammar; is the hardest to be able to control tone, volume and intonation. An excellent video and will search out your work.
Perhaps wood glue + cloth fabric or fiber glass? Wood glue has a certain softness for a time after solidifying, so even if you have wrinkles, you may be able to smooth them out by hand.
You have a strong accent, yep. But I fully understand what you are saying. It's not disturbing at all. It just show that you know more than one language. We are all proud of you Sergiy Yurko. So.. long story short; I think you don't need the AI voice. Your accent if part of your flavor, it define you. Like the robot voice of Stephen Hawking.
You need to go back to the point where you applied air to the reflective sheet. Then you use either epoxy or similier hardner to paint over the bubbled sheet. Once that drys you can then use the foam. They will solve your problem and allow it to be reflective with out the rinkles.
Might not be as cost efficient and more likely also not as reflective, in fact, for reflectiveness, chrome would be idea except the weight and the hazards from working with it. Mylar probably is the best way to go all around as long as there is a way of preventing the defects and wrinkles and such
This only applies to direct sunlight. It is counterproductive in case of diffuse radiation, veil, slight cloudiness. You could already learn it and not fantasize too much. Another thing is that the panel does not have an efficiency independent of the radiation density and direction.
Not sure how you would keep the shape perfectly concave, but maybe you could shape the foam after it’s already dried. If you drill a small hole in the base and attach a vacuum pump you could just apply adhesive to the inside, lay the sheet over the foam after it’s been shaped and let the vacuum pull it to the shape of the mirror. Kind of like using the bike pump but reverse
If you used a heat shrink film like is used for model making and sealed it to a thin flat foam disk, the shrinking should make the disk bend into a dish. It might be a problem getting it to shrink evenly, but a couple of shaped wood spars could keep it from becoming a mirrored potato chip.
Another problem is if the film stretches more in places than others, affecting the rates of cooling and varying the thickness of areas not stretched the same or cooled the same I would suggest using several of the ideas from these comments various ways to find the sweet spot, but definitely vacuum sealing mylar down onto an upside down satellite or other parabolic form, and maybe not using expanding foam, but a simple glue like an adhesive spray, one that doesn't expand or contract after applied or when drying. Letting it dry in the mold while having the mirror to be made sandwiched between 2 sat dishes clamped together and or vac sealed. Anothet idea is finding the exact temp at which mylar becomes pliable enough to form fit into place and using air that temperature on the concave side of the mirror to heat blow the film to the mirror backing sporting a thin non expanding adhesive spray that can be applied evenly Someone mentioned using water to form the parabolic shape using gravity, and I think that's a great idea, especially if you can use water warm enough to make the mylar somewhat maleable, and this is assuming of course that you have already considered how much mylar would contract once again upon cooling; you've already seen how the defects form not long after the mirror is finished, it shouldn't take too much observation and trial and error to find the sweet spot, but you mush also remember that the mirror, the whole thing, is in sunlight daily if the weather permits, and constant heating and cooling of the materials degrades them over time, not just wind and rain damagr to worry about. A simple wire or plastic mesh or some window screen inside your foam or on its backing would add structure, but id say backing each panel or mirror with a single fiberglass layer would make the whole structure much sturdier, and when replacing the reflective surface, the parabolic shape would stay the same the whole life of the device and be easy to strip and re film when the time comes, and this fiberglass or even thin molded PVC sheets would give you the most excellent way of fastening each mirror or panel to whatever frame you are using, like with plastic molly bits along the edge or at the corners, with plastic screws or bolts or better yet, plastic wingnut/bolt combos that have deep and angled threads fastening them to the frame
@@myspacemodulator or spray tollens reagent on it, no creases, easy application, and silver has the highest reflectivity of 95%, it doesn´t oxidize, so you have a long durability
Use a pressure washer to create a perfect shape out of metal, to reinforce the expanding foam, this will allow you to better shape your mirrors, and to fill any voids. This is called hydroforming.
Better to make it flat and curve one way vertically but as wide as your focal length and have another 2 more next to it. It is simpler, longer lasting,cheaper, and with more power.
Why not apply a liquid that will cure into a hard rigid shape? Like an epoxy? I'm sure there are epoxies or laquers that can cure without an exothermic reaction that would leave the mylar undamaged.
Spin casting can create a parabolic shape, better than a sphere, with epoxy...smooth it out and paint it with silver/chrome paint and poof! telescope mirror.
Вариант либо распечатать из пластика. Или взять готовую тарелку и затем покрасить/обклеить отражающей плёнкой, делать матрицы из пены так себе идея т.к. не точные они. Что бы точные получались нужно использовать гелькаут, а потом уже пену или что-то ещё, а это уже существенно дороже.
Maybe using your horizontal trough design but vertically, and put many in an arc pattern so that through the day certain mirrors would hit the focal point. Doing this you could mount the mirror very secure for the high winds and no moving parts. Also the rectangle troughs seem to be easier to construct.
I wonder, if you use the method that youtuber did to create a bubble, take a sacrificial space blanket, expand it the same way and use that to make a fiber glass mold- once you get a perfect mold you can make a negative to be able to easily replicate it. Once the Fiber Glass has dried/hardened you clean it up, get rid of any of the sticking first space blanket. Then now that you have the mold sand it to get it nice and smooth. You could then use something like spray adhesive to get a nice thin even layer and expand another one of those space blankets with the mold over it. I think with some trial and error you could even make a reasonable telescope mirror that way- nearly perfectly smooth. It'd probably need some kind of reinforcement to keep it's shape or just use many layers of fiber glass. And if it's Fiber glass, it should stand up to weather pretty well and you can probably refurbish it many times. Kinda makes me want to try it!
А вы не пробовали использовать виниловую или полиуретановую пленку для оклейки авто? Можно заказать зеркальную главное иметь основу без дефектов тогда и само зеркало будет ровным. Наклеивать также как тонировку на авто с помощью мыльной воды и ракеля
The YT video you reference with the failed first attempt went on to make a much better second attempt using fiberglass. This can be improved on further and can be re-lined with a vacuum and adhesive.
I wonder if a Simple Water Thinned PVA Glue, spray Applied to your First "Inflated" example, in 4-5 discrete "Built Up Layers", would cause the Least Distortion on the Surface, and provide a starting point with enough Stiffness, that the Spray Foam simply provides additional Stability, Strength, and Durability of your Mirror, without Causing Surface Distortion?
Those flat plastic lenses with the ridges that cause magnification? Yeah, that same type of material and surface is now also used for camouflaging and a company contracted by many governments militaries calls it Quantum Stealth The only difference is that the stealth stuff has uni or bidirectional lines or grooves in it instead of circular magnifying ones. They also experiment using this type of material to aid in the collection and production of solar energy Check em out, they're on yt
Hello Sergiy, excellent idea well done , but I would do it this way, make a simple concrete mould then stick the reflective film on it, simple and strong , and cheap .
Could you compute and graph a parabola on a piece of wood and maybe use that to turn a shape that could be used over and over again to create a mirror? Instead of polyurethane maybe use some kind of epoxy or plumbers putty make a negative mold and stretch the film over it and pour epoxy in layers over the film until it dries and is strong? Such a cool idea. I notice you said you were in Ukraine. I hope you are not affected negatively by the Russian military, or the Ukrainian government rushing you off to the front. You videos always interest me. Also, what about just doing this in two dimensions to heat up pipes like some of the other videos you made show. I was thinking it would be an interesting idea to investigate ways of making a cold and hot reservoir of water for heating and A/C in a home. Could that be done? Another guy on UA-cam made a small scale cooler by dripping water through some filters and cooling it down, and then pumping it over to another heat exchanger with a fan behind it blowing cool air into a room. But could you use cold water and hot water in a a room radiator to heat or cool the termperature - making use of a massive amount of water cooled cheaply? Keep making videos, they are so interesting
There are calculators to determine the speed of rotation to create a parabolic shape with liquid, say an epoxy, then use silver/chrome paint over it and walah.
First think I thought was this: 1. put satellite dish (as it has ideal parabolic shape. 2. stretch film and use hairdryer so film will take the shape. 3. apply any glue available. 4. use cheap material like wall-plaster, clay, gypsum, cement to apply atop. this way you will have sturdy heavy construction that will last longer and will not defect after strong winds. it will make construction much cheaper and ideally repeatable in production.
you can spray tollens reagent on it, this will deposit a silver layer (that´s how mirrors were made) .silver has the highest reflectivity of 95% especially in the visible range. spraying is easier, crease free, and silver being a noble metal oxidation won´t occur, though it may tarnish over time which (if it reacts with sulfur) can be easily be removed
Have you tried wet sand, cut out half of the profile that you want and from the center use it as a compass, paper-mache might be a good alternative to foam
That's all great, and I've seen your other videos, but I don't quite understand what are you trying to accomplish? If you're just showing individuals how they can do what you do at home, I think that's great. But if you have commercial use in mind, surely you don't expect some mirror plant to be torn down and replaced with the new one every eight months ort so. Now, depending on the location, there are PVC and/or polyester foils which can be vacuumed and don't cost anywhere near the glass mirrors etc. You can check Tech Ingredients channel, if I recall correctly, they have made some panels from that foil, and I think that material might be kind of middle ground which you seem to look for. Spraying polyurethane is also not the cheapest option if done one by one like you did in the video. As far as I could see, you've been testing your mirrors and other stuff on the improvised wooden structures at home? I mean for any commercial use you should also take the real structures into consideration, and probably you'll find out that the mirrors participate in the final price much less than it may seem at a first glance. I'm not criticizing you, on contrary, I think people should take much more interest in things which are surrounding them, and more importantly, are becoming critical factor in our lives, and look for possible solutions to keep expenses at bay. I'm just trying to understand what's your goal with the products you've been showing us in your videos...
I want to encourage viewers to create several dozen start-ups. 90% of them will go bankrupt, but the remaining 10% will revolutionize the world's energy industry and eliminate the need for fossil fuels. Perhaps I will take part in these start-ups sometime in the future, but now the Ukrainian army is waiting for me
@@sergiyyurko8668 I am planning to start a company called STARLIGHT solar which will use fencing materials (ground posts and tension steel wire) to build cheap motionless mirrors, I support your work and will continue it. I want peace in Ukraine more than anything else in the world.
Cut the film in some places, so it has an easier time laying flat. A large piece can't take curvature in to dimensions. A few cuts will help it out a lot, and you can re-cover any open places with your scrap pieces of reflective film.
Build a stable Box around the Satellite dish, span the mirror foil over the dish. The Box should be closed over dish and foil. Now make a small hole to fill in the foam in the Box and close the small hole. Now the foam will expand and Press the foil against the dish. It should get smooth as hell with the pressure of the expanding foam. No other ways to expand.
We don't do this anymore for electricity because it's just not as efficient as solar panels. Concentrating sunlight onto panels heats up the panels and makes them less efficient. You'd get more power with a solar panel the size of the dish.
Можно было БЕЗ натягивания изофолии обмотать спутниковую тарелку стрейчплёнкой не внатяг, затем напылить пену, а после затвердевания отодрать вместе со стрейчем. Тогда бы форма тарелки сохранилась. А уже потом на неё наклеивать на обычный клей полосами отражающую изофолию или даже полосы обычной фольги, которую можно прогнуть под форму тарелки без остаточных деформаций (морщин). и прослужит дольше, чем плёнка. К сожалению, для длительной работы для всех этих конструкций нужен механизм поворота зеркала за перемещающимся солнцем, чтобы поддерживать фокус на теплосъёмнике.
Teaching the world = saving the world
As an American. I love your Russian / Ukrainian accent. You do not need to use a bot. I am working on my own experiments with cheap reflective films, using fences to build motionless dish with moving receivers for cheap solar heat.
If you have clouds, your mirror is useless. TOPcon, PERC, PERT, IBC, perovsktes, GaN, CIGS SiaH etc. do not need concentrators. 3 - 4 junction panels, need concentrated energy,.
Parece el pueblo de Anatoly 🏋️
I would like to see results with a simple, stiff hollow cylinder, say 0.5m diameter and 10 cm deep, with airtight back and reflective film stretched over the front edge and glued, and then air pumped out of the cavity. The internal vacuum would curve the film to mathematical precision limited only by the flatness of the cylinder edge. I don't know whether it would tend to a spherical, parabolic, hyperbolic, catenary, or other curve, but with a small enough deflection the difference from an ideal parabolic curve would not matter much.
Please advise how to contact you
sounds more like Polish
I downvoted and prepared to leave when I heard the bot voice, but stayed just long enough to see the beginning of the main content. It was great! So I upvoted and even subscribed. Please avoid using bot voices, since there is so much AI garbage on youtube already. I don't need to hear perfect English, just be human please 😊
I absolutely agree with you, the superficial attitude of the Russians towards the case is obvious
Check his other videos to listen to his English. The bot is Best.
The person making this video might not speak English. And the Bot AI is Translated from his own language
Seems a bit rash.
The original video, from @NightHawklnNight, doesn't use ai. He started with the spray foam but ended up using fiberglass.
I think that you may want to reverse your process as follows,
1. Make circular frame, and tack on the reflection film,
2. " Top down effect" by pouring water into frame to achieve the curve in the film,
3. Use aircrete ( cement with soap bubbles) instead of foam, as the backing,
4. Place Air Crete under the curve made by water ( spray glue may be needed on the film to make it stick to the Air Crete,
Green power science did this with wayer and clear plastic to make a large parabola curves,
Great idea!
👍😶
Nice idea
I think ur correct. Need a try
Any links or pictures of such a construction?
1) Obtain a round satellite dish.
2) Make the back of the dish rough. (Glued on sandpaper strips should work)
3) Use the course dish to carve out the parabolic shape into a piece of rigid foam board. (A machine to spin the disc at a reasonable speed would be ideal).
4) Apply spray adhesive to the carved out foam board.
5) Stretch the mylar tight over foam board and then use the satellite dish to press it uniformly into the foam board cavity.
or just spray tollens reagent on the roughed satellite dish more durable higher reflectivity and easier to apply
I agree: I prefer your natural voice, rather than the bot. You are making good progress. I am not sure why you are focusing on circular mirrors, rather than linear mirrors, because you can hotwire rigid foam with CAD created parabolic templates very accurately, and hopefully create a very fine focus.
love this guy! i'm so glad he is still posting and in good health
Why not heat a square meter of 3mm upvc sheet over the sat dish , once cool it should adopt the shape of the dish and then attach the film ?
Home vacuum forming has really become very accessible.
Sergyi!
Look into these topics to solve your problem:
1: AirCrete
- Lightweight, foamed cement/lime.
2: large pottery making with sand/rotating templates and pouring concrete.
I think you can solve it like that and get much stronger, and still very light mirrors. 😊👍
Like spin casting to get a parabolic shape?
Spun aluminum or copper could be made in the same shape and polished to a high reflection then coated to prevent oxidation. When the coating degrades, you remove it, polish and coat again.
Solar energy is invaluable if we know how to use it. Great video, thank you
Hello Sergiy, love your work and want to build a rotating table on which paraboloids can be cast from plaster or concrete.
I imagine one can make a concave paraboloid, in it a convex paraboloid, and use both as a heavy mold.
A foil bag can be put in between them when they are spaced apart by 2-5 cm, and PU foam can be put in the bag. Then the foam will expand to fill the gap and exactly reproduce the shape.
Pretty good idea.
Ok, but you're trying to make 1 solid mirror, and to make it from a sheet of mylar that doesn't want to stretch. If you're looking to make a focused point of light, that is say 3 inches, then if you simply make a frame that holds flat 3" mirrors that are hex shaped, then you can make the same mirror, but can replace individual mirror modules as needed from a mylar blanket such as you've shown. Additionally, each hex module can actually protect the mylar film, without adding significantly to the cost. Glass, or acrylic, etc, two piece units, where the reflective material is sandwiched inside. Individual reflectors could be replaced instead of rebuilding the entire reflector and because they use a hex lattice, they can be scaled as large as you want if you add more modules to the frame.
Just buy cheap magnifying mirrors for less than $10😅
@@CraigLandsberg-lk1ep Yeah? JUST $10 USD? You know a large amount of the global population lives on less than $2 a day. WTF are you even doing here?
Идея неплохая)
I really appreciate your efforts. Keep up the good work, Mr. Sergiy.
Done right, I believe this is the most efficient form Solar Power. Some Day I want to setup a larger one of these that boils water to drive a steam motor, and so- produce electricity. Another really cheap way DIY Solar system (though a bit more expensive) is with black piping (can even spray the pipe black with spray paint if it's not already black), then pump water through it, if it is long enough it should boil and you can run a steam motor the same way, and get hot water at the same time. Nice video!
Just a tip- maybe don't use a bot voice in the beginning, it might drive People away before they give the video a chance.
I have an idea. Have a hole in the center. Have foam/glue on the perimeter and around the hole, with a gap for airflow. Vacuum out all the air and hold that until the glue sets.
I think if you did this with something like plexiglass shaped desirably it will be fairly cheap and easy to reproduce as well as a more durable.
Sergiy please do your own voice it is much more pleasant to hear. Keep up the good work! You inspired me to create solar water heater from an old Litho Light Table scraped by printing-house. It is working flawlessly for last two years. All summer I have more than enough hot water. It has dual purpose -Glass table on terrace and hot water heater. Thank you for being an inspiration.
The youtuber who made the failed mirror looked like nighthawkinlight. He's a fantastic content maker. Worth a look.
Дорогой Сергей! Я очень рад, что Вы живы и здоровы!
Поддерживаю👍
I saw someone make a mirror like that, they made a hole in the little of their disc shape and then used vacuum to pull back the film into the concave shape and thus sticking to the glue. Now I don't know how the styrofoam might stand up to vacuum. Mut it might be something to look into! Hope it helps!
Loved this idea and your zeal for a cheap solar mirror. To assist you in your endeavor, I would suggest rather than applying foam/glue, use vacuum. Build a metal cuboid with two square surfaces and depth more than depth of the dish required with all edges welded air tight. Coat the edges with some paint so that it remain air-tight. Drill a circle of required diameter on one square side. On back side of it drill a small hole and insert a metal tube in it and weld it in place. Paste a reflective film on the front side. After the film is stuck tight, start sucking air from the tube on back side. As air is sucked out it will form a perfect concave dish without any folds or wrinkle on the sheet. Close the back side tube with pin. The air tight ness of the sheet as well as box matters most here. The smoothness of circular hole also matters most. Please try and let us know. All the best.
What about using pieces of bamboo? Split a bamboo into 4-8 sections with the mirror film glued to the inside of 75-100+ mm diameter bits of bamboo a meter long if more or less. Depending on what is required . Another idea is using air to make the dish like in the video, only use fiberglass on the film glued on first. Then add air. Attachment points can be add to the back side. Use a thin fiberglass and resin roll it on. Add air before it sets up. Even paper, cloth many things can also be used. Not really worth carbon fiber, but cotton cloth synthetic cloth or silk pre Made fiberglass attachment points can be made and glued on with resin. I would love to build a 1kw steam engine generator powered by the sun. Then maybe use propane, methanol, CNG, something with a low boiling temperature. To replace water. Maybe a mixture , propane and methanol possibly. Or CNG and methanol gasoline and propane, gasoline and CNG, the difficult part may be getting it to return to a liquid. Maybe a small refrigerant compressor can be ran at the same time as the generator. Used in short cycles to chill the gas to liquid to start the cycle over again. A pump pumping liquid through the boiler. A iron block with passages through it. For liquid And a area for gasses to collect and be heated just before the engine request it. Heat the gas well into the boiling point , and use a similar cooper or brass block with refrigerant passages chill, the gas to liquid to be stored until needed. It would be awesome if was effiecent was enough to use thermal electrics to make it work..
Mr Sergey, Thank you. this is a very useful idea
Could you do a video on a complete system? The mirror to heat the oil line or whatever to go through a diy generator that would change the heat to electricity to run 100 to 200 watts of appliances? I love your idea for solar mirrors. Edit: I can see how the oil would go through a heat radiator to heat, but would like electricity too.
Also: if you use foam intended for fitting windows/doors you'll find it is manufactured to expand less aggressively and more slowly. It spreads the force more equally.
Please, speak with your own voice. Listening to a human that speaks with emotion and intonation is much easier and better than listening to a text-to-speech generated voice. Do not worry about people not understanding you -- subtitles that you create by hand are really helpful.
Glue , balloon and form 👍
Need a really big baloon. And the balloon doesn't provide the necessary strenght.
Still a good idea.
I really value your videos because you focus so much on the cost / benefit ratio. One thing I've been interested in for quite some time, but not really done a lot of experiments in this area, is to create your own water-resistant / proof foam. I don't mean expanding foam like the polyeurathane foam, I mean something like creating a foam from glue that dries out and leaves the foam in place, similar to the foam you can create with washing up llquid, but where it dries in place and stays there.
Also, what about using polystyrene foam but using something like a cheap, large CNC machine carve the surface of the foam into the shape you want? And then spraying the surface with glue, and expanding the film onto the surface?
Ideally, what you want is a kind of fine grain, reticulated foam made from a rigid material where you can spray the surface with glue, and then expand the film onto it using air pressure, so that it all touches the surface of the rigid foam at the same time everywhere, and that would be both light, rigid and relatively cheap.
How about saturating a piece of polyether foam with a slightly diluted pva glue and giving that the parabolic shape using the inflation method?
Thank you for sharing - sometimes cheap solutions are the best
just a thought, Sergiy can you make a exact opposite of the satillite dish and sandwich the polysterene and mirror when glued in between the 2 satellite dishes and place them in a vacuum bag and remove all of the air thus forcing the polysterene and reflective film together possibly with a smoother finish, if you are trying this method, try using contact adhesive(rubber based) instead of expanding foam this might help in the smoothness of the finished product, i just realised when typing you dont need a negative satellite dish just 2 the same size to sandwich the polysterene between getting the polysterence smooth on the side where the reflective foil is going to be will be tricky,but hopefully the vacuum bag trick will work, i would also look into whether when in a vacuum bag any steps you might need to take to prevent slippage of the mould before the glue is solid, but under vacuum that might not happen, who knows ?? good luck Sergiy :) :)
There are now A.I. tools that will keep your voice but translate it into other languages. They are far better than text-to-speech bots because they retain your expression and mannerisms and only change the language. Your work is invaluable and I hope you get funding and consulting work with the American Climate Corps and your ideas are used to rebuild Ukraine back better. Thank you for all you do!
There a some concern about mirrors vs solar panels - dust.
Dust on solar panel lower efficiency on 10-20%, but on mirror it drop efficiency drastically - so you need keep in mind cleaning and maintance.
Nice work and good luck
Pretty smart! As a roofer I am usually asked to remove old satellite dishes and I could collect quite a few of them. I wonder if I could polish one to a mirror finish? Or cover with that film
Next idea: create paraboloid Male CNC mold. Heat reflective mylar in a enclosure, then vacuum form mylar(only) to male mold; then apply backing material, like spray PU in a polyethylene 'bag', with spray adhesive on side to bond to back of mirror material on male mold still, and then vacuum form PE bag to back of mirror, remove from mold.
Maybe if you were to use a hairdryer or heat gun, you might be able to shrink the plastic sheeting tight. Hello, from Detroit Michigan USA. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. And expertise have a blessed day
Hello ! Have you seen on youtube how peopes does big cement flower pots with a sand mold shaped with a rotative spade ? Maybe make that, then you got a cement matrix to make dozens of them, thinner than with foam, reinforced with some clothes sunk into it.
For the reflective material, I can't see less interesting than thin stainless steel sheet. It is more expensive, but you haven't to throw it to landfill and make new one every years. Wish you to be safe and happy, cheer !
Polyurethane foam expands because it reacts with moisture. You should spray some on a peace of cardboard and spray it with some water. This will cause the foam to expand immediately. You then scoop it up and place it in the mold. Not only will you get minimal expansion during setting, but your panels will also be much lighter because the foam is fully expanded. I saw an artist use this technique to make foam statues.
Sergiy ...... I am not sure weather or not you read the comments, but just in case I have an idea to improve the wrinkles out of your mirrors.
You show a video of gluing a circle and inflating the film with a pump. This seems a good way to produce a parabolic surface. Why not coat the pumped up surface with a thin layer of an epoxy resin? That would give you a clean flat and stronger surface that you could then eather add more epoxy to give a complete mirror or use your expanding foam to bulk up the back of the mirror!
I think the relative expense of epoxy v foam would mean a thin layer of epoxy to stop wrinkles and then foam would be the cheapest way. This also has the advantage of being fairly easily scaleable to fairly large surfaces.
A similar technique could be used to produce linear parabolic mirrors like those seen in power plants. Obviously it would need a mould but instead of inflating it you would only need to glue the ends and stretch them apart slightly to give a taught surface to apply the epoxy to.
All the best.
Гарна робота!!! Молодець! Тримайся!!!
Instead of polyurethane foam, to begin with, you can cover your inflated film bubble with epoxy resin of proper consistency for soft brushing. Try thin milled vermiculite from garden store as a thickening agent. In order to assure from overspreading, give some slow rotation to a base for a while, the rotation axis is slightly inclined from the vertical, about 5 .. 10 deg. Once epoxy layer is cured, apply ordinary foam in a way that was shown in your video.
There are multiple ways you can make a parabolic shaped dish.
1. Use a resin and spin it around. The resin will turn into a dish shape from centrifugal force.
2. Take a piece of wood and turn it just like how wooden bowls are made. Or even by carving.
3. 3d prin parts and put them together.
As for adding a mirror polish; there are mirror sprays that could work.
another process other than foam. Great video!
Take a black pocket garden hose and roll into a coil. Wrap with duct tape and fill with water then leave hose onto mylar space blanket foil. Leave in the sun and you can have hot water for shower, washing etc. Have several setup and your hit water needs are met. Have some large size thermos bottles filled and store overnight then first thing in morning you can fill a "Solar Shower" bag and have a warm shower.
Why don't you just apply air pressure at the last stage while the mold is wet and let it dry? You would achieve perfect slope.
Nice! But I am using garden hose with a clear plastic to insulate it, to heat my house on very cold days and keep my plants alive.
I think you should try vibrating dish during the foam setting. It may help with more uniform coverage and reduce wrinkles.
That's a nice project cheers
Another way you could build a cheap and easy pattern out of foam then suspend a router from a string/steel wire from a point above the pattern. You could then work it back and forth and it would create a concave shape then from that point you could cover the concave pattern with plastic film, then fill in the concave shape to create a large positive convex pattern that you could then sandwich the Myler and some expanding foam to build a concave mirror.
That would create a spherical shape, a parabola is more efficient, either by deepening the center, flattening the mid ring, or a combination of both, like a telescope mirror.
Maybe try spray adhesive in a can. And maybe a heat gun to stretch the film. That's what I would do. Great idea!
Your accent is charming; with proper subtitles, it’s fine!
Robo-voices have become synonymous with bad merchants selling fake stuff.
Using a parabolic mirror to heat fluid-water, or a combo of water + antifreeze substance (please use a non-toxic kind; it can be salt, or glycerine, etc)-can heat water for household use, including bathing, laundry, & heating the indoor space, very well.
May I suggest, to build parabolic troughs to be covered with tempered glass-that keeps weather & debris out of them, so, helps the components last better, even when using the Mylar-type reflective film?
But the things do get wicked-hot-can melt plastic. Especially if the opening is covered by tempered glass.
It’s better to use a stainless steel mirror surface.
Then, run a straight copper tube (no rust) along the center, painted black with high-temp stove paint, above the mirror surface, kind of centered along the space, so the mirror reflects all along the tube.
The linear parabola can stay in one place, & still create hot fluid in the tube, when the parabola trough is sited East/West, with the opening facing south (in N. hemisphere), & the opening rotated on its axis to be perpendicular to the latitude your property is at. (Ours is about 45* latitude, so, a parabola here, would be positioned so the flat glass front is at 45* pointing south)
Old water heaters can be converted into half-decent parabolas, by using half sections, & inserting reflective sheets formed in the proper parabolic elipse, then, insulated on the back to hold the shape. It can be all set-into a framework, or even into the ground if on a hill.
The hot tube can be connected with in-floor radiant tubing, to heat floors; if sited just below the floor or water heater level. it can circulate the fluid pretty much without a pump, because the hot water rises, & the cooler water falls.
You may need an expansion tank.
Similarly, can make a tubing coil that fits into an insulated tank to heat hot water.
*You should have used fast-curing ultra light weight plaster on the first Air-pressure formed mold and it would have been successful. Also plaster lasts for 400 years in sunlight and the outside elements.*
instead of using expanding foam that will always give a rough surface. you could try epoxy with a little isopropanol alcohol to thin it out so it could make a thin layer of nearly glass like smoothness then once hard you could add the spray foam for added support . it would be a little more expensive and time consuming but it could potentially give you flawless results
Нарешті я вас знайшов!
Дуже радий, що ви продовжуєте.
Хоча українською зрозуміліше! ))
На украинском языке просмотров не будет. Раньше, когда ролики были на русском, много (относительно) было просмотров из РФ, сейчас монетизацию убрали (за просморты из России не платят), а украинские просмотры и раньше приносили копейки автору, а сейчас - и подавно. Если человеку так выгоднее, то это хорошо, что он выпускает ролики на английском. Чем больше заработает, тем больше будет денег и времени на новые эксперименты. Надеюсь, Сергей покинул "нэньку" и не попадёт в бус "незламности". Такие люди нужны человечеству живыми.
Amazing. Please let me know on the idea on how to bring the concave shape to the EPS and also if I can laser cut the small mirrors onto the dish, EPS dish. For cooking rice.
Fantastic work ! Thanks for sharing it. Your English is easily understood so maybe the AI voice isn’t needed.
Personally I don’t care, but so many others rush to judgement without giving you half a chance.
It’s their loss ❤
What comes to mind are colanders. Some of them are already paraboloid shaped and they have holes in them so you can heat the film and then vacuum form it directly onto the inner surface of the colander.
There must exist massive colanders for industrial processes that are massive. If you got one of those, you could have a giant mirror. But the smaller ones can be very cheap if plastic. That, however, would make it harder to reuse the colander and the entire mirror would be thrown out after a couple years. If you used metal, it would be more expensive but you could replace the film more easily by simply stripping it or dissolving it and it would hold its shape better during its life.
You need to spray the back of it with spray mount basically a contact adhesive first then wait about 20 minutes and start spraying it with a filler paint probably about 3 or 4 coats.. the idea of greymouth is to stick to the reflective surface and the paint will make a hard surface you can then use spray foam which should not distort the mirror as it.. there may be something more suitable than paint which is harder but that you will have to experiment with
Brother, instead of stretching a whole sheet to fit your base perfectly, please use smaller pieces of polystyrene. It will be more work, but your mirror will have more finish. You can use pre-made stencils to cut shapes of exactly the same size.
I have been inspired by your research and have done some of my own. I have seen that some companies put their mirrors in green houses (glass houses), so for a slight drop in light they can use very flimsy mirrors that don't even need cleaning.
Have you considered such an approach?
a few things might help : a heat gun could apply gentle heat to the film during stretching, thus smoothing out those ridges. Secondly a second 'satellite dish' hard smooth surface, covered in something like plastic wrap could provide the ideal shell for weight application - like a sandwich. so you would have 1 dish, sealed and smooth that will have the film applied over it. Stretch the film and apply gentle heat to work out wrinkles and folds, then a thin layer of foam (which may have better solutions in the future), then a second dish, which is sealed and smoothed on the inside with a layer of plastic wrap if needed to keep the foam from sticking to it. apply clamps or weight as needed, wait until the foam is cured, then remove everything.
This should make a more uniform 'bowl' dish shape, smooth and focus easier.
The most important factor of being lightweight is that it can be controlled by a rotating small, very small motor so that it can be directed by the sun's movement from east to west.
I qas thinking of connecting nxn panels in a frame with motor in the centre and the sheet on top of it.
Concentrated plant can produce thousands of degree celsius of thermal energy.
All the large industries can make use of this instead of furnace.
Ps: special construction required.
You should use the first air method, then coat the top in epoxy resin. Let it harden, then coat the back with the polystyrene
Hey my friend - why not consider old satellite dishes, cleaned with a vacuum hole at the back. Apply glue/silicone to outer edges and centre of reflective film. Vacuum the mirror till glued? An idea of mine going down the rabbit hole of cheap home mirror production, that I haven't the time or money to investigate.... There must be thousands of old satellite dishes now not needed.?? Great presentation of stages of testing your ideas... don't listen to anyone about your voice! As my first language to degree level - English is a very difficult language, when you are concentrating on oral punctuation and grammar; is the hardest to be able to control tone, volume and intonation. An excellent video and will search out your work.
Perhaps wood glue + cloth fabric or fiber glass? Wood glue has a certain softness for a time after solidifying, so even if you have wrinkles, you may be able to smooth them out by hand.
You have a strong accent, yep. But I fully understand what you are saying. It's not disturbing at all. It just show that you know more than one language. We are all proud of you Sergiy Yurko.
So.. long story short; I think you don't need the AI voice.
Your accent if part of your flavor, it define you. Like the robot voice of Stephen Hawking.
You need to go back to the point where you applied air to the reflective sheet. Then you use either epoxy or similier hardner to paint over the bubbled sheet. Once that drys you can then use the foam. They will solve your problem and allow it to be reflective with out the rinkles.
Hello Sergiy, excellent work, I suggest you also experiment with Mirror Spray Paint.
Might not be as cost efficient and more likely also not as reflective, in fact, for reflectiveness, chrome would be idea except the weight and the hazards from working with it. Mylar probably is the best way to go all around as long as there is a way of preventing the defects and wrinkles and such
This only applies to direct sunlight. It is counterproductive in case of diffuse radiation, veil, slight cloudiness.
You could already learn it and not fantasize too much.
Another thing is that the panel does not have an efficiency independent of the radiation density and direction.
Amazing video once again!
That's clever. Those thing can be dangerous in how easy it is to accidentally set something on fire!
Not sure how you would keep the shape perfectly concave, but maybe you could shape the foam after it’s already dried. If you drill a small hole in the base and attach a vacuum pump you could just apply adhesive to the inside, lay the sheet over the foam after it’s been shaped and let the vacuum pull it to the shape of the mirror. Kind of like using the bike pump but reverse
Чудове відео! Не спиняйтеся! Успіхів!
If you used a heat shrink film like is used for model making and sealed it to a thin flat foam disk, the shrinking should make the disk bend into a dish. It might be a problem getting it to shrink evenly, but a couple of shaped wood spars could keep it from becoming a mirrored potato chip.
Another problem is if the film stretches more in places than others, affecting the rates of cooling and varying the thickness of areas not stretched the same or cooled the same
I would suggest using several of the ideas from these comments various ways to find the sweet spot, but definitely vacuum sealing mylar down onto an upside down satellite or other parabolic form, and maybe not using expanding foam, but a simple glue like an adhesive spray, one that doesn't expand or contract after applied or when drying. Letting it dry in the mold while having the mirror to be made sandwiched between 2 sat dishes clamped together and or vac sealed.
Anothet idea is finding the exact temp at which mylar becomes pliable enough to form fit into place and using air that temperature on the concave side of the mirror to heat blow the film to the mirror backing sporting a thin non expanding adhesive spray that can be applied evenly
Someone mentioned using water to form the parabolic shape using gravity, and I think that's a great idea, especially if you can use water warm enough to make the mylar somewhat maleable, and this is assuming of course that you have already considered how much mylar would contract once again upon cooling; you've already seen how the defects form not long after the mirror is finished, it shouldn't take too much observation and trial and error to find the sweet spot, but you mush also remember that the mirror, the whole thing, is in sunlight daily if the weather permits, and constant heating and cooling of the materials degrades them over time, not just wind and rain damagr to worry about. A simple wire or plastic mesh or some window screen inside your foam or on its backing would add structure, but id say backing each panel or mirror with a single fiberglass layer would make the whole structure much sturdier, and when replacing the reflective surface, the parabolic shape would stay the same the whole life of the device and be easy to strip and re film when the time comes, and this fiberglass or even thin molded PVC sheets would give you the most excellent way of fastening each mirror or panel to whatever frame you are using, like with plastic molly bits along the edge or at the corners, with plastic screws or bolts or better yet, plastic wingnut/bolt combos that have deep and angled threads fastening them to the frame
@@myspacemodulator or spray tollens reagent on it, no creases, easy application, and silver has the highest reflectivity of 95%, it doesn´t oxidize, so you have a long durability
Use a pressure washer to create a perfect shape out of metal, to reinforce the expanding foam, this will allow you to better shape your mirrors, and to fill any voids.
This is called hydroforming.
Better to make it flat and curve one way vertically but as wide as your focal length and have another 2 more next to it. It is simpler, longer lasting,cheaper, and with more power.
Why not apply a liquid that will cure into a hard rigid shape? Like an epoxy? I'm sure there are epoxies or laquers that can cure without an exothermic reaction that would leave the mylar undamaged.
Spin casting can create a parabolic shape, better than a sphere, with epoxy...smooth it out and paint it with silver/chrome paint and poof! telescope mirror.
Вариант либо распечатать из пластика.
Или взять готовую тарелку и затем покрасить/обклеить отражающей плёнкой, делать матрицы из пены так себе идея т.к. не точные они.
Что бы точные получались нужно использовать гелькаут, а потом уже пену или что-то ещё, а это уже существенно дороже.
Great work 👍
I'm looking forward to building something like this one day 😁
Maybe using your horizontal trough design but vertically, and put many in an arc pattern so that through the day certain mirrors would hit the focal point. Doing this you could mount the mirror very secure for the high winds and no moving parts. Also the rectangle troughs seem to be easier to construct.
I have found that chrome car wrap on the back of an old sign or on a dish works and supposed to last 3 years outside
I wonder, if you use the method that youtuber did to create a bubble, take a sacrificial space blanket, expand it the same way and use that to make a fiber glass mold- once you get a perfect mold you can make a negative to be able to easily replicate it. Once the Fiber Glass has dried/hardened you clean it up, get rid of any of the sticking first space blanket. Then now that you have the mold sand it to get it nice and smooth. You could then use something like spray adhesive to get a nice thin even layer and expand another one of those space blankets with the mold over it. I think with some trial and error you could even make a reasonable telescope mirror that way- nearly perfectly smooth. It'd probably need some kind of reinforcement to keep it's shape or just use many layers of fiber glass. And if it's Fiber glass, it should stand up to weather pretty well and you can probably refurbish it many times. Kinda makes me want to try it!
А вы не пробовали использовать виниловую или полиуретановую пленку для оклейки авто? Можно заказать зеркальную главное иметь основу без дефектов тогда и само зеркало будет ровным. Наклеивать также как тонировку на авто с помощью мыльной воды и ракеля
The YT video you reference with the failed first attempt went on to make a much better second attempt using fiberglass. This can be improved on further and can be re-lined with a vacuum and adhesive.
I wonder if a Simple Water Thinned PVA Glue, spray Applied to your First "Inflated" example, in 4-5 discrete "Built Up Layers", would cause the Least Distortion on the Surface, and provide a starting point with enough Stiffness, that the Spray Foam simply provides additional Stability, Strength, and Durability of your Mirror, without Causing Surface Distortion?
The old and large "projection screen" TV's are being given away all over. Each has a giant magnifying lens. Works way better than the mirror.
Those flat plastic lenses with the ridges that cause magnification?
Yeah, that same type of material and surface is now also used for camouflaging and a company contracted by many governments militaries calls it Quantum Stealth
The only difference is that the stealth stuff has uni or bidirectional lines or grooves in it instead of circular magnifying ones.
They also experiment using this type of material to aid in the collection and production of solar energy
Check em out, they're on yt
@@myspacemodulator If someone set one up with a tracker, they could make one hell of a water heater.
Hello Sergiy, excellent idea well done , but I would do it this way, make a simple concrete mould then stick the reflective film on it, simple and strong , and cheap .
Could you compute and graph a parabola on a piece of wood and maybe use that to turn a shape that could be used over and over again to create a mirror? Instead of polyurethane maybe use some kind of epoxy or plumbers putty make a negative mold and stretch the film over it and pour epoxy in layers over the film until it dries and is strong? Such a cool idea.
I notice you said you were in Ukraine. I hope you are not affected negatively by the Russian military, or the Ukrainian government rushing you off to the front. You videos always interest me.
Also, what about just doing this in two dimensions to heat up pipes like some of the other videos you made show.
I was thinking it would be an interesting idea to investigate ways of making a cold and hot reservoir of water for heating and A/C in a home. Could that be done? Another guy on UA-cam made a small scale cooler by dripping water through some filters and cooling it down, and then pumping it over to another heat exchanger with a fan behind it blowing cool air into a room. But could you use cold water and hot water in a a room radiator to heat or cool the termperature - making use of a massive amount of water cooled cheaply?
Keep making videos, they are so interesting
There are calculators to determine the speed of rotation to create a parabolic shape with liquid, say an epoxy, then use silver/chrome paint over it and walah.
How about using two satellite dishes to form the foam between them?
First think I thought was this:
1. put satellite dish (as it has ideal parabolic shape.
2. stretch film and use hairdryer so film will take the shape.
3. apply any glue available.
4. use cheap material like wall-plaster, clay, gypsum, cement to apply atop.
this way you will have sturdy heavy construction that will last longer and will not defect after strong winds. it will make construction much cheaper and ideally repeatable in production.
you can spray tollens reagent on it, this will deposit a silver layer (that´s how mirrors were made) .silver has the highest reflectivity of 95% especially in the visible range. spraying is easier, crease free, and silver being a noble metal oxidation won´t occur, though it may tarnish over time which (if it reacts with sulfur) can be easily be removed
man you are good at english, great range of vocabulary. how many years have you been speaking english?
Have you tried wet sand, cut out half of the profile that you want and from the center use it as a compass, paper-mache might be a good alternative to foam
That's all great, and I've seen your other videos, but I don't quite understand what are you trying to accomplish? If you're just showing individuals how they can do what you do at home, I think that's great. But if you have commercial use in mind, surely you don't expect some mirror plant to be torn down and replaced with the new one every eight months ort so. Now, depending on the location, there are PVC and/or polyester foils which can be vacuumed and don't cost anywhere near the glass mirrors etc. You can check Tech Ingredients channel, if I recall correctly, they have made some panels from that foil, and I think that material might be kind of middle ground which you seem to look for. Spraying polyurethane is also not the cheapest option if done one by one like you did in the video. As far as I could see, you've been testing your mirrors and other stuff on the improvised wooden structures at home? I mean for any commercial use you should also take the real structures into consideration, and probably you'll find out that the mirrors participate in the final price much less than it may seem at a first glance.
I'm not criticizing you, on contrary, I think people should take much more interest in things which are surrounding them, and more importantly, are becoming critical factor in our lives, and look for possible solutions to keep expenses at bay. I'm just trying to understand what's your goal with the products you've been showing us in your videos...
I want to encourage viewers to create several dozen start-ups. 90% of them will go bankrupt, but the remaining 10% will revolutionize the world's energy industry and eliminate the need for fossil fuels. Perhaps I will take part in these start-ups sometime in the future, but now the Ukrainian army is waiting for me
@@sergiyyurko8668 I am planning to start a company called STARLIGHT solar which will use fencing materials (ground posts and tension steel wire) to build cheap motionless mirrors, I support your work and will continue it. I want peace in Ukraine more than anything else in the world.
@@sergiyyurko8668 what type of acrylic glue bead do you use for the mylar? I am working on building one.
@@sergiyyurko8668 I am working on a startup of my own right now for pool heaters.
I think you should investigate if you can make a concave lens with wet plaster of paris and a turn table.
I think you should use a close mold to let the foam fill it with pressure.
Cut the film in some places, so it has an easier time laying flat. A large piece can't take curvature in to dimensions. A few cuts will help it out a lot, and you can re-cover any open places with your scrap pieces of reflective film.
what the ... is this borat's smart little brother? Vaary niice!
Build a stable Box around the Satellite dish, span the mirror foil over the dish. The Box should be closed over dish and foil. Now make a small hole to fill in the foam in the Box and close the small hole. Now the foam will expand and Press the foil against the dish. It should get smooth as hell with the pressure of the expanding foam. No other ways to expand.
We don't do this anymore for electricity because it's just not as efficient as solar panels. Concentrating sunlight onto panels heats up the panels and makes them less efficient. You'd get more power with a solar panel the size of the dish.
A corner reflector works with a reductoon in efficiency with radiowaves but a test must be done with heat reflection
I would use the roof part of a modern car polish it and you have a perfect part to catch the Sunrays.
Можно было БЕЗ натягивания изофолии обмотать спутниковую тарелку стрейчплёнкой не внатяг, затем напылить пену, а после затвердевания отодрать вместе со стрейчем. Тогда бы форма тарелки сохранилась. А уже потом на неё наклеивать на обычный клей полосами отражающую изофолию или даже полосы обычной фольги, которую можно прогнуть под форму тарелки без остаточных деформаций (морщин). и прослужит дольше, чем плёнка.
К сожалению, для длительной работы для всех этих конструкций нужен механизм поворота зеркала за перемещающимся солнцем, чтобы поддерживать фокус на теплосъёмнике.