Impressive ! Just a thought. Put a stock on next to in in the video to show side by side comparison. Show everyone how different the wheels are.! Love what you did with this. 👍
I try to keep the turn around time 3 weeks or less, but right now I am a bit busy...they are taking right at 4 weeks. Being a small shop has its struggles at times! I will say that a few big jobs are close to being wrapped up next week, so that may get me back to the 3 week time. Fingers crossed! Oh, and you can always order the turbo and choose "send my core in before" and we will go ahead and get you in line and the process started. Once I am close to being done with your turbo I will send you an email reminder and you can pull your turbo off then. That way you can get a bit more driving time out of it while we are working on a new unit. Hope that makes sense! email support@workturbochargers.com if you have further questions, I will get back to you asap. Reed
Can I run it on stock engine at stock boost? I assume I'd just run stock wategate actuator to keep stock boost levels? All I want is a good quality stock turbo.
Rover...This turbo will run on a healthy stock engine, but I would only do it if you are planning on upgrading power levels in the very near future. If you are looking for a high quality stock replacement unit, or even a more conservative upgrade unit, we can help with that as well! Give me a call at the shop and I will be happy to discuss your options. If you do not get me, please leave a message with the best time to return your call. We stay pretty busy and sometimes we have to let the answering machine take the calls. 205-874-6608
Ok, haha, some more questions.. -how do I decide which external waste gate to use? -are they size matched to the turbo you are going to use? -can you use a four port or three port solenoid without an aftermarket ECM?
For the Buick, I would suggest our Turbosmart 40mm, it will work perfectly. Sizing is determined by several things, and while a 38mm is plenty for your engine/goals, the 40 offers v-flanged mounting to simplify the install. If you are planning on going for more than say 450 flywheel hp, or to run on Ethanol, go up to the 45mm. For stroker engines/aluminum heads we would suggest the 50mm. I am unsure if anybody has written programs for boost control solenoids other than the stock one on the Buick. Reaching out to Turbo Tweak/Bailey or any of the Buick "chip guys" would be your best bet. I walked away from the factory ECU many many years ago...so I am not the best guy to ask on this subject. Using an electronic stand alone controller would be very nice. The Turbosmart EBoost 2 offers basic boost control, programmable "ramps", boost by gear/rpm etc. Very powerful for the money.
I have a bunch questions Reed. Would you recommend a larger downpipe? What hp would a ta33 support just to compare? Have you ever seen an external waste gate on a hotair car? Did you make those times back in the day with a stock bottom end? You said ask lol..
Be happy to answer! Here you go: Yes, you need a 3" downpipe kit to get the most of any turbo...it would even make a nice difference on a 100% stock turbocharger. A nice 2.5" dual or single 3" downpipe back exhaust is also recommended. Almost all real world testing I have done with a TA33 nets about 400 flywheel HP efficiently. If you look at a MAP for that wheel (T04E-60 trim), you will see it flows really well around 30-40#/min, and falls off really quickly after that point. So, 40#/min X 10 = 400 HP, theoretically. It will make more, but at the cost of heat...a lot of heat! So we are looking at a solid 100-150 HP possible improvement. We have put an external gate on several hot airs...one of the first ones we did was on the crossover pipe (bad idea, did not control the boost very well!), the second and later ones we did were placed in the UP PIPE right before the turbine inlet. Works very well. The style that mounts to the downpipe and utilizes the factory wastegate hole in the turbine housing is not really that nice...you are just as well off with a good internal actuator at that point. The stock 84-85 block is OK at the power level of this turbo, IF the tune is good. The blocks are not as strong, but we have never broken one. Going low 11's on it should not be an issue if it is healthy. Let me know what other questions you have, I will be happy to help! -Reed
@@workturbo Ok! Thanks for answering!! Next barrage of questions!😉 1-would a larger turbo (say 6262) net more power and cooler temps? 2-would you vent the external waste gate on the UP PIPE to the exhaust or to the atmosphere? 3-how do you calculate the size of waste gate for an external setup? Thanks!!
Good questions, and very simple to answer! While the 6262 sounds like a great idea, it is not "unless" the engine can use the airflow. A centrifugal compressor has an efficiency "island", which is simply an area of flow and pressure that it wants to operate within. The closer to the center of the island you can get, the better. However, if you cannot generate the airflow (or try to generate too much airflow) you get "off the island", which simply makes heat. So, a bigger turbo "turned down" usually will perform worse than a smaller turbo running "on the island". Plus, you have the associated "lag" of the bigger turbo, which will drastically reduce torque output. Now, if you have a proper cam, heads and converter...the 6262 is a strong performer! For the wastegate "dump", atmosphere will flow the best...obviously because the downpipe and exhaust system does not have to deal with the added volume of flow. The Buick sounds "ok" with an open dump (mine was that way for many years)...but it is loud, and you need to make sure you dump it in a safe location as the exhaust is very hot coming out of the pipe. HTH! Reed
Beautiful job rebuilding this turbo charger looks more beefier than stock but looks so oem mind-blowing
Thank you!
Impressive ! Just a thought. Put a stock on next to in in the video to show side by side comparison. Show everyone how different the wheels are.!
Love what you did with this. 👍
Great work. What do you think the turnaround time would be after you receive the core?
Thanks
I try to keep the turn around time 3 weeks or less, but right now I am a bit busy...they are taking right at 4 weeks. Being a small shop has its struggles at times! I will say that a few big jobs are close to being wrapped up next week, so that may get me back to the 3 week time. Fingers crossed! Oh, and you can always order the turbo and choose "send my core in before" and we will go ahead and get you in line and the process started. Once I am close to being done with your turbo I will send you an email reminder and you can pull your turbo off then. That way you can get a bit more driving time out of it while we are working on a new unit. Hope that makes sense! email support@workturbochargers.com if you have further questions, I will get back to you asap. Reed
Can I run it on stock engine at stock boost? I assume I'd just run stock wategate actuator to keep stock boost levels? All I want is a good quality stock turbo.
Rover...This turbo will run on a healthy stock engine, but I would only do it if you are planning on upgrading power levels in the very near future. If you are looking for a high quality stock replacement unit, or even a more conservative upgrade unit, we can help with that as well! Give me a call at the shop and I will be happy to discuss your options. If you do not get me, please leave a message with the best time to return your call. We stay pretty busy and sometimes we have to let the answering machine take the calls. 205-874-6608
Do you make the intercooler conversion kit ? Great video
Thank you! I only do turbochargers...give Dev Watts @wattsperformancesolutions a call, he is in GA and is a great vendor for the turbo Buicks!
Ok, haha, some more questions..
-how do I decide which external waste gate to use?
-are they size matched to the turbo you are going to use?
-can you use a four port or three port solenoid without an aftermarket ECM?
For the Buick, I would suggest our Turbosmart 40mm, it will work perfectly. Sizing is determined by several things, and while a 38mm is plenty for your engine/goals, the 40 offers v-flanged mounting to simplify the install. If you are planning on going for more than say 450 flywheel hp, or to run on Ethanol, go up to the 45mm. For stroker engines/aluminum heads we would suggest the 50mm.
I am unsure if anybody has written programs for boost control solenoids other than the stock one on the Buick. Reaching out to Turbo Tweak/Bailey or any of the Buick "chip guys" would be your best bet. I walked away from the factory ECU many many years ago...so I am not the best guy to ask on this subject.
Using an electronic stand alone controller would be very nice. The Turbosmart EBoost 2 offers basic boost control, programmable "ramps", boost by gear/rpm etc. Very powerful for the money.
I have a bunch questions Reed.
Would you recommend a larger downpipe?
What hp would a ta33 support just to compare?
Have you ever seen an external waste gate on a hotair car?
Did you make those times back in the day with a stock bottom end?
You said ask lol..
Be happy to answer! Here you go: Yes, you need a 3" downpipe kit to get the most of any turbo...it would even make a nice difference on a 100% stock turbocharger. A nice 2.5" dual or single 3" downpipe back exhaust is also recommended. Almost all real world testing I have done with a TA33 nets about 400 flywheel HP efficiently. If you look at a MAP for that wheel (T04E-60 trim), you will see it flows really well around 30-40#/min, and falls off really quickly after that point. So, 40#/min X 10 = 400 HP, theoretically. It will make more, but at the cost of heat...a lot of heat! So we are looking at a solid 100-150 HP possible improvement. We have put an external gate on several hot airs...one of the first ones we did was on the crossover pipe (bad idea, did not control the boost very well!), the second and later ones we did were placed in the UP PIPE right before the turbine inlet. Works very well. The style that mounts to the downpipe and utilizes the factory wastegate hole in the turbine housing is not really that nice...you are just as well off with a good internal actuator at that point. The stock 84-85 block is OK at the power level of this turbo, IF the tune is good. The blocks are not as strong, but we have never broken one. Going low 11's on it should not be an issue if it is healthy. Let me know what other questions you have, I will be happy to help! -Reed
@@workturbo Ok! Thanks for answering!!
Next barrage of questions!😉
1-would a larger turbo (say 6262) net more power and cooler temps?
2-would you vent the external waste gate on the UP PIPE to the exhaust or to the atmosphere?
3-how do you calculate the size of waste gate for an external setup?
Thanks!!
Good questions, and very simple to answer! While the 6262 sounds like a great idea, it is not "unless" the engine can use the airflow. A centrifugal compressor has an efficiency "island", which is simply an area of flow and pressure that it wants to operate within. The closer to the center of the island you can get, the better. However, if you cannot generate the airflow (or try to generate too much airflow) you get "off the island", which simply makes heat. So, a bigger turbo "turned down" usually will perform worse than a smaller turbo running "on the island". Plus, you have the associated "lag" of the bigger turbo, which will drastically reduce torque output. Now, if you have a proper cam, heads and converter...the 6262 is a strong performer!
For the wastegate "dump", atmosphere will flow the best...obviously because the downpipe and exhaust system does not have to deal with the added volume of flow. The Buick sounds "ok" with an open dump (mine was that way for many years)...but it is loud, and you need to make sure you dump it in a safe location as the exhaust is very hot coming out of the pipe.
HTH! Reed
Where are u located ?
Just south of Birmingham Alabama