A product that works exactly as advertised. Used it to flatten frequency response from the factory head unit of a 2012 kia sorento. The bass frequencies rolled off dramatically below 50 hertz, adding the keyloc completely repaired the signal, boosting from 20 to 50 hertz correctly. I use it specifically to improve the signal to my bass amp and subwoofer combo. It's pretty cool to do the a/b comparison by toggling the keyloc button to hear in real time 'before and after' sound quality. 10/10.
Trying to use this with my Subaru Forester head unit, it's got all pass filters I want to get rid of. When I run the setup I get to the Full Test and after about 1 minute it goes to error mode - power, 1, 2 & 3 lights start flashing. Kicker support hasn't been able to resolve it. Any ideas as to why the Full Test can't run?
First, make sure you're doing the gain match step properly. Wait 10 seconds between input gain adjustments before moving to the next step. If either channel clips at any frequency during the gain match step, the likelihood of failure/bad results is exponential. DSPs don't like clipped signals input. Next, try running the test at a higher or lower volume on your head unit. Remember, if you change the head unit volume (voltage into the KEYLOC), then gain match step much be done again.
@@rtiid22 I got it to work, but it definitely did not create a flat audio signal. That was too much to ask. I returned the Keyloc and then I replaced the crappy factory Subaru head unit with a Pioneer and I'm super happy now!
@@johnkovich8874 When you test the audio signal using the pink noise track, the LED corresponding to the subwoofer frequency band will light up if it's detecting subwoofer frequencies. It'll be called Passive Frequency Detection on page 10 of the manual here: www.kicker.com/app/manuals/signal_processors/keyloc/47keyloc.pdf
Can’t seem to get past the full test. I can do the input gain matching, get to the noise floor but once I move to the full test, the #2 led continues to blink then goes solid shortly after for many minutes. Almost like my test will go the full 22 min
When the first signal you tested was no good for 20 Hz signal, what other signal did you use? I wanna hook this up to my rear speaker connections for my subwoofer and amp. So if I get the same bad 20 Hz signal what am I supposed to do? Hook this up to my front speaker signals??
If you tap into factory speaker wires and the KEYLOC shows you're not getting much bass, then you need to tap into different factory speaker wires. The KEYLOC will help bring up the bass, but it cannot create bass where there's zero to start with.
Hii so my factory car unit is still sending some volts though when it's paused ⏸️ causing this noise because it's being amplified with my amp , will this help me solve my issue ?
Start/Stop vehicles (if you have one) can have issues like that with aftermarket amps, but there are fixes for most of them. To verify, contact Technical Support. They can be reached by email: support@kicker.com or by phone: 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 8-5 central time.
Yes, that's true. Another option to consider is using KEYLOC for the front channels and a non-tuning LOC for the back channels, like a KISLOC2 (if you want to save money).
Yes, but bear in mind it may not be necessary. Many amplifiers have an RCA pass through that maintains the voltage so you get a stronger signal out to the sub amp.
Once the input is set (as the video instructs), here's what you do: First, turn BOTH the amp gain and the KEYLOC output knob all the way down. Then, turn on the same sweep track you used to set the input of the KEYLOC. Attach the probes of an oscilloscope to the + and - of one of the RCA channels. Slowly turn up the output levels. You are looking for the point where the signal clips on the oscilloscope. Remember that the sweep takes a little time to send all frequencies through - so just turn it up a small amount...wait until the track resets, and move it up a little more. Don't turn up the gain non-stop - do it bit by bit. If it doesn't clip even after turning the output knob all the way up, connect the KEYLOC to the amp as you normally would. Now, with the same track playing and the gain of the amp all the way down, move the probes to the outputs of your amp (without the speakers attached). Again, slowly move the gain up until you see a clipped signal on the oscilloscope. That's the right way to do it.
@@billplaisance6387 my guess would be to set it as close to your recommended amplifier voltage with a multimeter. Ol' bro from Kicker shouldn't have left you hanging.
The best thing to do is check out the manual. Go to the bottom of this page and click on the KEYLOC Manual link, then go to Page 16 of the PDF.: www.kicker.com/keyloc-smart-line-out-converter
Yes. If you tap into a full-range signal (assuming you have one available), many mid/high range amps have a full range pass-through, which you can then run to a sub amp. Two notes: 1) you will lose your fader, as you are running the full system off of a stereo signal. 2) you will need a bass knob to control the subwoofer's output.
Oscar, are you saying you went through the entire setup and got no lights at all? Here is a link to the instructions if you need them: www.kicker.com/app/manuals/signal_processors/keyloc/47keyloc.pdf
Scroll about halfway down the test tone page and look for the "KEY200.4 / KEY180.4 Smart Amplifier Test" header. here is one example (there is both an .mp3 and .wav option): Toneswww.kicker.com/files/test_tones/Lab_Grade_Pink_Noise_20_minutes.mp3
@@KICKER-AUDIO I wish I would’ve known this the other night when I was doing my install but luckily I was able to just play the pink noise by looking it up on UA-cam. But I’m curious- if this test tone is kinda needed for the setup of the Keylock then why has it been two years later and the pink noise still isn’t with all the other test tones for the keylock so it’s easy to find?
How does this differ from the lc2 pro and other such LOC also not all amps can take 10 volt input signal does this auto adjust or how do you match the voltage to the amp
Depends on what your amp is rated for. Do you know? As far as the LC2pro, we dont talk badly about other brands. So what we will say is this: most LOC's are analog, which means NO DSP. It also means they sound worse as the volume raises. It also means they cant evaluate whats missing on a case by case basis. Not only is ours digital, but it makes intelligent decisions to fix whats wrong with your specific factory audio system. Its not just more bass - its better, cleaner signal across the board.
Hello! I'm guessing this will also be needed in a case where I'm just switching out the factory speakers in a '15 Wrangler to the Kicker KSC650 with the basic (non- touchscreen) factory stereo? Thank you!
The KEYLOC is used when adding an aftermarket amplifier to a factory audio system. If you are simply replacing factory speakers with aftermarket, it would not be used.
@@KICKER-AUDIO thanks for the quick reply! What would be the best thing to go for, for getting optimal sound from those speakers mentioned above from my stock stereo? Or would it just be simpler to buy an affordable aftermarket stereo with those speakers. I'm a newbie somewhat. Thanks.
Are you saying don’t even hookup a new amp or sub until after keyloc is setup? OR Is the new amp/sub hooked up but all adjustments are turned all the way down and you don’t adjust the amp gain etc until after the keyLOC is setup
@@AlexRodoni Hi Alex, it doesn't change what the KEYLOC does in any way since the signal chain goes Source Unit>KEYLOC>Amp. And after the KEYLOC setup, you'll just need to match the output voltage of the KEYLOC to the input sensitivity voltage of the amplifier.
The lights that correspond with frequencies it detects should be on when the stereo is on (so light #1 for bass, for example). If the KEY loses its settings, the audio should change drastically. To test this, press the KEY button briefly to deactivate the DSP settings. If the auto-tuning has been lost, there should be no difference in the sound. Here is an example of that test: ua-cam.com/video/ZwWggIfQHqM/v-deo.html
Seems like I'm not getting the proper frequency response from 30-40hz.. let me ask this. If I put the speakers inputs into the keyloc in reverse order would that affect the setup? Like I put right in left and left in right. Also when I turn my car on after setup all the lights are on. Is this wrong? Thanks for the response
So I gave up and went out to just reset the Keyloc and start over. I put it into led 3. Held for 10 seconds. Keyloc shutdown then reset. Now it sounds amazing. So literally I'm not using any of the Keyloc magic processing and it is literally a passive LOC now. Maybe I will try it again later but for now it sounds fine. I don't understand how with processing it wouldn't play 30-40hz but with it off it now plays those frequencies...So they are coming from the stock system
Blew up my rear speakers running the ridiculous lengthed test tones at ridiculous levels for this thing to even register. Not a great device for a normal consumer
All the blue lights will be on if the KEYLOC detects a full range signal. Depending on the vehicle, the factory audio system may not have any full range signals, or very weak signal in one or more of the frequency ranges, like you see at @2 minutes into the video. The presenter had to turn the gains way up to even detect low frequencies in that example, which means it had very little bass. on that channel. Go to about 2:45 in that video. Notice how low the KEYLOC's gains are set when he gets all three lights to come on. That is the full range signal you are looking for. If you want more info, please don't hesitate to call us. Tech Support is open weekdays from 8-5 Central time at 405-624-8510.
I have tried the standard kicker loc, the nvx bass reconstruction and the nvx x boost for bass roll off and it didnt solve my problem. The reconstruction sounds awful if i try to use that feature but works ok as a loc. The x boost is to complicated to set up and pretty much requires guessing. The lci accu bass is the same guessing game and wouldnt resotre my eq. Im really hoping that this solves my issue in an audi a4 b8. The system is amplified but non b&0. I dont know any other product that does the processing and matching for you
If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact us. We can verify whether or not you need a load adapter as well (varies by vehicle). Our number is 405-624-8510. We are open weekdays from 8-5c. You can also email us at support@kicker.com.
@@KICKER-AUDIO I got this and installed it today in less than 15 minutes. I wish I had know about it from the start because it WORKS. Only complaint I have is the menu. I can enter it just fine but trying to turn the time alignment off has been tricky. It says solid is on, blinking is off. Hold key for 2 seconds to toggle on and off. The light is solid in the menu, blinks when I press the key but doesn't seem to toggle. It stays solid unless I'm holding the key
@@mouritzo123 I ended up measuring my sub output on a 40 hertz tone. I turned the volume up until the voltage stopped increasing. That was my max volume but I wanted more in the front stage. I turned the bass down to raise my over all volume and not roll off the sub signal. I used the kicker loc and adjusted my gains from there. So my bass is about a quarter of the way down but my amp gain and sub makes up for that. My mid bass could be better but the sub is on point now
I was just gonna unhook the factory sub and use those wires to input into this thinking the extra power from the factory amp would help? It would be mostly low frequency I assume but I’m only gonna run a mono sub amp not any full rang amps.
Assuming the frequency response is sufficient, yes. However, the factory sub may be crossed over with a different frequency range than you need. They KEYLOC will help make that determination during the setup process.
@@KICKER-AUDIOso if I get this keyloc and try to run it from the powered factory subwoofer and it only shows low frequency will it work for adding my mono block amp for my aftermarket subwoofer’s or does it need the low and mid signal both or does it actually need all three low mid and high to properly run the aftermarket subwoofers? Also being the factory only has one subwoofer can I split it to go to both inputs of the keyloc or am I gonna have to have two separate speaker inputs? I called and talked to someone on your team they told me if I was happy with the overall tonal sound of the factory and just needed to add bass all I would need is your kisloc but I don’t think I told him I was going to try and come from the factory subwoofer so that might make a difference? Also with this keyloc the setup is making sure there isn’t a clipped signal going into the keyloc correct even if there is distortion coming from the factory deck this will eliminate that ? And if it eliminates the distortion coming out does that mean the amp cannot get a clipped signal at all can the gain be turned all the way up on the amp without sending a clipped signal to the subwoofers. Sorry for short story here just don’t want to mess anything up.
@@KICKER-AUDIOanother thing I forgot to add is I run the factory stereo with its bass level set to negative 5 that way I can play the factory speakers full volume without distortion and only the factory subwoofer is really putting out much bass at all. If I run the bass level at 0 some of the dash speakers gets distortions at full volume.
I checked the voltage while adjusting output with a 50hz tone and i only get 3 volts out it changes as i turn the dial but when i stop turning it goes back down to 3 volts with no effect on where the knob is at even if i stop playing the tone i get 3 volts, do you know why?
If I turn my EQ settings back up on my stock radio after will it affect the Chanel with the LOC? I have a couple subs running in the back off the rear sub with a pac loc currently.
Any EQ adjustments you make on the stock radio will be added to the output of the KEYLOC, for better or worse. The KEYLOC gets you to "flat" or "zero". If you change the incoming signal (by adjusting EQ), the KEYLOC will output flat+your change.
@@tjsworld2338 That will do nothing. The KEYLOC makes a flat signal out of whatever you give it. So if you have the factory head unit the way you want, then set up the KEYLOC, you'll just have a flat signal out. If you don't want a flat signal out, start with the head unit EQ all at 0, then run the KEYLOC, then set your head unit EQ. Exactly as I said above, this could be for better or worse. Boosting bass +8 after fact is just going to send distortion to your speakers.
@@firebirdude2 can you still use a bass knob? I have the Jl slash 1000/1 amp and since I I’m using the lc2i it has the bass knob. If I get this loc can you use the knob for the amp
Whats the best way to use this when upgrading from a factory sub? It is only one channel input to the keyloc. Whats the best way to wire that so that I can still get both channels out to the amp?
The KEYLOC has two channels in. Split the factory subwoofer wires into two pair and connect them to the white and gray inputs on the KEYLOC. Follow this video closely and make sure you set the input gain on the KEYLOC correctly (left knob). The run regular RCA from the KEYLOC to your amp.
Every one I’ve seen on the site has been out of stock. I need a line driver. DSP DSO something to get way better signal from my head unit to my amp. When will they be back in stock?
Just released. I know some dealers have them in stock. It would make sense that dealers get precedence on stock levels over the website. EDIT: Crutchfield has them bruh. Did you even look?! lol
CLARIFICATION..."All 4 LEDs that are supposed to light up." The power light stays on. Because it has power. So the other lights couldn't light up because there is no power if the first light wasn't lit. Say that ten times fast for us.
Does anybody know how to add a second loc to a system that the key is already installed but can’t give consistent voltage to the fire amps I need to be running. I’m aware of the other product lines but want to keep the key due to its ability to clean this Volvo XC90 like no other product. Please help! Anyone!? loc
I’ll give some updates to fill in for those who may use this later. So going to run a cheaper loc in the front speaker lines that go to the stock amp. So the keyloc47 will be the second loc in the front speaker lines and because of this the DSP is able to clean the signal just before it reaches the stick amp and then the sending unit and then the speakers. So basically it somehow raised the impedance by approximately 1 ohm throughout the main system speakers so not they are all at about 3 ohm 😕😕🤯🤯😶🌫️😶🌫️ So anyhoo, the fact I am able to add the second loc before the keyloc offered me two fresh lines with clean voltage to feed my four amps. I will update afterword.
Out of curiosity, what makes you say that? What other products can not only detect the frequency response of a signal, but correct it so you have a clean signal for your amp?
@@KICKER-AUDIOsupposedly that new Audio Control LC2i Pro line output converter does almost or similar to the same thing as the Keylock but I’m not to familiar with it.
I have an amplifier that can take a max of 4 V. I also have the key lock and looking at the specs it delivers up to 10 V. Is there a way to adjust it so it matches 4 V?
@jamesfair9751 use a multimedia set to AC Volts. I use an old male end rca cable and strip off insulation to expose the wires inside. Hook your multimeter to those wire. Turn up your head unit to 3/4 volume and increase the output until you reach your amps input sensitivity voltage. Good luck
This is exactly what's needed for the Chevy Amplified Bose Crapola!!
A product that works exactly as advertised. Used it to flatten frequency response from the factory head unit of a 2012 kia sorento. The bass frequencies rolled off dramatically below 50 hertz, adding the keyloc completely repaired the signal, boosting from 20 to 50 hertz correctly. I use it specifically to improve the signal to my bass amp and subwoofer combo. It's pretty cool to do the a/b comparison by toggling the keyloc button to hear in real time 'before and after' sound quality. 10/10.
This is exactly what's needed for the Mazda CX-5 Amplified Bose Crapola!!
Dude I love kicker
Sweet.
When are we going to see a stand alone "Key" DSP with 6 in 8 outs ? 😁
Kicker = innovators
Say no more ... Added to cart‼
So the output gain can be adjusted however one wants after adjusting the input gain? I didnt really see them talk about that
Yes. The "output" knob on the top controls voltage out on the RCAs to the amp.
Trying to use this with my Subaru Forester head unit, it's got all pass filters I want to get rid of. When I run the setup I get to the Full Test and after about 1 minute it goes to error mode - power, 1, 2 & 3 lights start flashing. Kicker support hasn't been able to resolve it. Any ideas as to why the Full Test can't run?
First, make sure you're doing the gain match step properly. Wait 10 seconds between input gain adjustments before moving to the next step. If either channel clips at any frequency during the gain match step, the likelihood of failure/bad results is exponential. DSPs don't like clipped signals input.
Next, try running the test at a higher or lower volume on your head unit. Remember, if you change the head unit volume (voltage into the KEYLOC), then gain match step much be done again.
I’m looking into buying one for my Subaru for the same reason you stated. Did this end up working for you?
@@rtiid22 I got it to work, but it definitely did not create a flat audio signal. That was too much to ask. I returned the Keyloc and then I replaced the crappy factory Subaru head unit with a Pioneer and I'm super happy now!
Do i need to have rca connected or can they be unplugged
Please make in depth wiring videos for the power and remote wires. Especially a general factory radio harness tapping explanation.
We did! Check this out: ua-cam.com/video/XB9yWt_cniE/v-deo.html
Where is the pink track I only see 3 different tracks in two formats and then I'm say pink?
I have a 2005 Honda accord with a CD player no Bluetooth USB or any of that how do I play the test tones??
You can download the files and burn them to a cd
So, how is the frequency selected? By just playing the pink noise track?
There isn't a frequency selected. The Pink noise track is used with the RTA in the KEYLOC to show you what frequency bands are detected in the signal.
@@KICKER-AUDIO how do i ensure that i have a subwoofer output signal for my amp? I'm just a little confused.
@@johnkovich8874 When you test the audio signal using the pink noise track, the LED corresponding to the subwoofer frequency band will light up if it's detecting subwoofer frequencies. It'll be called Passive Frequency Detection on page 10 of the manual here: www.kicker.com/app/manuals/signal_processors/keyloc/47keyloc.pdf
What about bass roll off? Does this correct that from the factory system
It does indeed. That's one huge advantage this offers.
Can’t seem to get past the full test. I can do the input gain matching, get to the noise floor but once I move to the full test, the #2 led continues to blink then goes solid shortly after for many minutes. Almost like my test will go the full 22 min
Contact Tech Support. They are open weekdays from 8-5 cst at 405-624-8510 or by email: support@kicker.com.
You never adjusted the output level. What is that option even used for?
You use the output with amp gain. You will end up adjusting both to get the best quality signal to your speakers.
When the first signal you tested was no good for 20 Hz signal, what other signal did you use? I wanna hook this up to my rear speaker connections for my subwoofer and amp. So if I get the same bad 20 Hz signal what am I supposed to do? Hook this up to my front speaker signals??
If you tap into factory speaker wires and the KEYLOC shows you're not getting much bass, then you need to tap into different factory speaker wires. The KEYLOC will help bring up the bass, but it cannot create bass where there's zero to start with.
Hii so my factory car unit is still sending some volts though when it's paused ⏸️ causing this noise because it's being amplified with my amp , will this help me solve my issue ?
Start/Stop vehicles (if you have one) can have issues like that with aftermarket amps, but there are fixes for most of them. To verify, contact Technical Support. They can be reached by email: support@kicker.com or by phone: 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 8-5 central time.
only thing i dont like is u need 2 of these to retain fade control off of factory stereo
Yes, that's true. Another option to consider is using KEYLOC for the front channels and a non-tuning LOC for the back channels, like a KISLOC2 (if you want to save money).
can I split the rca outputs on the keyLOC with rca splitters so I have multiple left and right audio for a sub amp and a 4 channel amp ??
Yes, but bear in mind it may not be necessary. Many amplifiers have an RCA pass through that maintains the voltage so you get a stronger signal out to the sub amp.
After the setup is complete, how do you adjust the output knob?
Once the input is set (as the video instructs), here's what you do: First, turn BOTH the amp gain and the KEYLOC output knob all the way down. Then, turn on the same sweep track you used to set the input of the KEYLOC. Attach the probes of an oscilloscope to the + and - of one of the RCA channels. Slowly turn up the output levels. You are looking for the point where the signal clips on the oscilloscope. Remember that the sweep takes a little time to send all frequencies through - so just turn it up a small amount...wait until the track resets, and move it up a little more. Don't turn up the gain non-stop - do it bit by bit. If it doesn't clip even after turning the output knob all the way up, connect the KEYLOC to the amp as you normally would. Now, with the same track playing and the gain of the amp all the way down, move the probes to the outputs of your amp (without the speakers attached). Again, slowly move the gain up until you see a clipped signal on the oscilloscope. That's the right way to do it.
So what if you do not have an oscilloscope?
@@billplaisance6387 my guess would be to set it as close to your recommended amplifier voltage with a multimeter. Ol' bro from Kicker shouldn't have left you hanging.
When did they set the output lvl in the video? Does it have like set voltages or is it variable?
The best thing to do is check out the manual. Go to the bottom of this page and click on the KEYLOC Manual link, then go to Page 16 of the PDF.: www.kicker.com/keyloc-smart-line-out-converter
Would I be able to use this to run to my sub amp as well as a voice amp
Yes. If you tap into a full-range signal (assuming you have one available), many mid/high range amps have a full range pass-through, which you can then run to a sub amp. Two notes: 1) you will lose your fader, as you are running the full system off of a stereo signal. 2) you will need a bass knob to control the subwoofer's output.
Hello I have a question I don’t get any blue lights but my subwoofer sounds good very loud
Oscar, are you saying you went through the entire setup and got no lights at all? Here is a link to the instructions if you need them: www.kicker.com/app/manuals/signal_processors/keyloc/47keyloc.pdf
Where in the hell is the pink noise test tone to download? All there is sweep track, full test, gain match and noise floor.
Scroll about halfway down the test tone page and look for the "KEY200.4 / KEY180.4 Smart Amplifier Test" header. here is one example (there is both an .mp3 and .wav option): Toneswww.kicker.com/files/test_tones/Lab_Grade_Pink_Noise_20_minutes.mp3
@@KICKER-AUDIO OK got it thanks.
@@KICKER-AUDIO I wish I would’ve known this the other night when I was doing my install but luckily I was able to just play the pink noise by looking it up on UA-cam.
But I’m curious- if this test tone is kinda needed for the setup of the Keylock then why has it been two years later and the pink noise still isn’t with all the other test tones for the keylock so it’s easy to find?
How does this differ from the lc2 pro and other such LOC also not all amps can take 10 volt input signal does this auto adjust or how do you match the voltage to the amp
Depends on what your amp is rated for. Do you know? As far as the LC2pro, we dont talk badly about other brands. So what we will say is this: most LOC's are analog, which means NO DSP. It also means they sound worse as the volume raises. It also means they cant evaluate whats missing on a case by case basis. Not only is ours digital, but it makes intelligent decisions to fix whats wrong with your specific factory audio system. Its not just more bass - its better, cleaner signal across the board.
@@KICKER-AUDIOmy amp says it can take an input voltage from 250milivolts to 5 volts
Hello! I'm guessing this will also be needed in a case where I'm just switching out the factory speakers in a '15 Wrangler to the Kicker KSC650 with the basic (non- touchscreen) factory stereo? Thank you!
The KEYLOC is used when adding an aftermarket amplifier to a factory audio system. If you are simply replacing factory speakers with aftermarket, it would not be used.
@@KICKER-AUDIO thanks for the quick reply! What would be the best thing to go for, for getting optimal sound from those speakers mentioned above from my stock stereo? Or would it just be simpler to buy an affordable aftermarket stereo with those speakers. I'm a newbie somewhat. Thanks.
Is he saying "pink noise" or "paint noise"?
Pink noise: www.kicker.com/test-tones
So where should I have the gain on the amp set at when setting up this keyloc for subwoofers?
The KEYLOC outputs a stronger signal to the amp, so it's advisable to complete that setup before you set up the amp it is being connected to.
@@KICKER-AUDIO exactly what I needed to know. Thank you
Are you saying don’t even hookup a new amp or sub until after keyloc is setup? OR Is the new amp/sub hooked up but all adjustments are turned all the way down and you don’t adjust the amp gain etc until after the keyLOC is setup
@@AlexRodoni Hi Alex, it doesn't change what the KEYLOC does in any way since the signal chain goes Source Unit>KEYLOC>Amp. And after the KEYLOC setup, you'll just need to match the output voltage of the KEYLOC to the input sensitivity voltage of the amplifier.
So after setup when I start my car all lights should be on everytime? How do you know if it lost its settings?
The lights that correspond with frequencies it detects should be on when the stereo is on (so light #1 for bass, for example). If the KEY loses its settings, the audio should change drastically. To test this, press the KEY button briefly to deactivate the DSP settings. If the auto-tuning has been lost, there should be no difference in the sound. Here is an example of that test: ua-cam.com/video/ZwWggIfQHqM/v-deo.html
Seems like I'm not getting the proper frequency response from 30-40hz.. let me ask this. If I put the speakers inputs into the keyloc in reverse order would that affect the setup? Like I put right in left and left in right. Also when I turn my car on after setup all the lights are on. Is this wrong? Thanks for the response
So I gave up and went out to just reset the Keyloc and start over. I put it into led 3. Held for 10 seconds. Keyloc shutdown then reset. Now it sounds amazing. So literally I'm not using any of the Keyloc magic processing and it is literally a passive LOC now. Maybe I will try it again later but for now it sounds fine. I don't understand how with processing it wouldn't play 30-40hz but with it off it now plays those frequencies...So they are coming from the stock system
Blew up my rear speakers running the ridiculous lengthed test tones at ridiculous levels for this thing to even register. Not a great device for a normal consumer
So when it's set all the blue light stay on
All the blue lights will be on if the KEYLOC detects a full range signal. Depending on the vehicle, the factory audio system may not have any full range signals, or very weak signal in one or more of the frequency ranges, like you see at @2 minutes into the video. The presenter had to turn the gains way up to even detect low frequencies in that example, which means it had very little bass. on that channel.
Go to about 2:45 in that video. Notice how low the KEYLOC's gains are set when he gets all three lights to come on. That is the full range signal you are looking for.
If you want more info, please don't hesitate to call us. Tech Support is open weekdays from 8-5 Central time at 405-624-8510.
I have tried the standard kicker loc, the nvx bass reconstruction and the nvx x boost for bass roll off and it didnt solve my problem. The reconstruction sounds awful if i try to use that feature but works ok as a loc. The x boost is to complicated to set up and pretty much requires guessing. The lci accu bass is the same guessing game and wouldnt resotre my eq. Im really hoping that this solves my issue in an audi a4 b8. The system is amplified but non b&0. I dont know any other product that does the processing and matching for you
If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact us. We can verify whether or not you need a load adapter as well (varies by vehicle). Our number is 405-624-8510. We are open weekdays from 8-5c. You can also email us at support@kicker.com.
@@KICKER-AUDIO I got this and installed it today in less than 15 minutes. I wish I had know about it from the start because it WORKS. Only complaint I have is the menu. I can enter it just fine but trying to turn the time alignment off has been tricky. It says solid is on, blinking is off. Hold key for 2 seconds to toggle on and off. The light is solid in the menu, blinks when I press the key but doesn't seem to toggle. It stays solid unless I'm holding the key
@@TOLDyouSOagain I have exactly the same, have you managed to get a workaround for this?
@@mouritzo123 I ended up measuring my sub output on a 40 hertz tone. I turned the volume up until the voltage stopped increasing. That was my max volume but I wanted more in the front stage. I turned the bass down to raise my over all volume and not roll off the sub signal. I used the kicker loc and adjusted my gains from there. So my bass is about a quarter of the way down but my amp gain and sub makes up for that. My mid bass could be better but the sub is on point now
Can I use the signal from my factory radio factory amp and factory sub
I was just gonna unhook the factory sub and use those wires to input into this thinking the extra power from the factory amp would help? It would be mostly low frequency I assume but I’m only gonna run a mono sub amp not any full rang amps.
Assuming the frequency response is sufficient, yes. However, the factory sub may be crossed over with a different frequency range than you need. They KEYLOC will help make that determination during the setup process.
@@KICKER-AUDIOso if I get this keyloc and try to run it from the powered factory subwoofer and it only shows low frequency will it work for adding my mono block amp for my aftermarket subwoofer’s or does it need the low and mid signal both or does it actually need all three low mid and high to properly run the aftermarket subwoofers? Also being the factory only has one subwoofer can I split it to go to both inputs of the keyloc or am I gonna have to have two separate speaker inputs? I called and talked to someone on your team they told me if I was happy with the overall tonal sound of the factory and just needed to add bass all I would need is your kisloc but I don’t think I told him I was going to try and come from the factory subwoofer so that might make a difference? Also with this keyloc the setup is making sure there isn’t a clipped signal going into the keyloc correct even if there is distortion coming from the factory deck this will eliminate that ? And if it eliminates the distortion coming out does that mean the amp cannot get a clipped signal at all can the gain be turned all the way up on the amp without sending a clipped signal to the subwoofers. Sorry for short story here just don’t want to mess anything up.
@@KICKER-AUDIOanother thing I forgot to add is I run the factory stereo with its bass level set to negative 5 that way I can play the factory speakers full volume without distortion and only the factory subwoofer is really putting out much bass at all. If I run the bass level at 0 some of the dash speakers gets distortions at full volume.
What happened to kip? Don't see him anymore
Kip is on leave. Thanks for asking!
Does this restore bass rolloff?
Yes it does.
What is the “Output” dial for?
Controlling the voltage level that goes to the amplifier.
I checked the voltage while adjusting output with a 50hz tone and i only get 3 volts out it changes as i turn the dial but when i stop turning it goes back down to 3 volts with no effect on where the knob is at even if i stop playing the tone i get 3 volts, do you know why?
@@KICKER-AUDIOcan you see my previous reply please
If I turn my EQ settings back up on my stock radio after will it affect the Chanel with the LOC? I have a couple subs running in the back off the rear sub with a pac loc currently.
Any EQ adjustments you make on the stock radio will be added to the output of the KEYLOC, for better or worse. The KEYLOC gets you to "flat" or "zero". If you change the incoming signal (by adjusting EQ), the KEYLOC will output flat+your change.
@@firebirdude2 so should you leave the factory head unit the way you want it then set up the loc
@@tjsworld2338 That will do nothing. The KEYLOC makes a flat signal out of whatever you give it. So if you have the factory head unit the way you want, then set up the KEYLOC, you'll just have a flat signal out.
If you don't want a flat signal out, start with the head unit EQ all at 0, then run the KEYLOC, then set your head unit EQ. Exactly as I said above, this could be for better or worse. Boosting bass +8 after fact is just going to send distortion to your speakers.
@@firebirdude2 ok got it. I have a lc2i now on my Cadillac ATS and I just don’t like it. Trying to decide what to use
@@firebirdude2 can you still use a bass knob? I have the Jl slash 1000/1 amp and since I I’m using the lc2i it has the bass knob. If I get this loc can you use the knob for the amp
Whats the best way to use this when upgrading from a factory sub? It is only one channel input to the keyloc. Whats the best way to wire that so that I can still get both channels out to the amp?
If its bass, only one channel is needed, since bass is always mono.
@@KICKER-AUDIO wouldnt you need both channel inputs on the amp in order to bridge?
The KEYLOC has two channels in. Split the factory subwoofer wires into two pair and connect them to the white and gray inputs on the KEYLOC. Follow this video closely and make sure you set the input gain on the KEYLOC correctly (left knob). The run regular RCA from the KEYLOC to your amp.
Every one I’ve seen on the site has been out of stock. I need a line driver. DSP DSO something to get way better signal from my head unit to my amp. When will they be back in stock?
Bro amazon has them
Amazon has them
Just released. I know some dealers have them in stock. It would make sense that dealers get precedence on stock levels over the website. EDIT: Crutchfield has them bruh. Did you even look?! lol
firebirdude2 all of my shops don’t have this one I’m looking for soooo hopefully y’all will get them in again soon. I need it badly
Try living outside the USA. Nearly no chance to get any of these products.
“All 4 LEDs light up” - there are 5 LEDs…
CLARIFICATION..."All 4 LEDs that are supposed to light up." The power light stays on. Because it has power. So the other lights couldn't light up because there is no power if the first light wasn't lit. Say that ten times fast for us.
Does anybody know how to add a second loc to a system that the key is already installed but can’t give consistent voltage to the fire amps I need to be running. I’m aware of the other product lines but want to keep the key due to its ability to clean this Volvo XC90 like no other product. Please help! Anyone!? loc
I’ll give some updates to fill in for those who may use this later. So going to run a cheaper loc in the front speaker lines that go to the stock amp. So the keyloc47 will be the second loc in the front speaker lines and because of this the DSP is able to clean the signal just before it reaches the stick amp and then the sending unit and then the speakers. So basically it somehow raised the impedance by approximately 1 ohm throughout the main system speakers so not they are all at about 3 ohm 😕😕🤯🤯😶🌫️😶🌫️
So anyhoo, the fact I am able to add the second loc before the keyloc offered me two fresh lines with clean voltage to feed my four amps. I will update afterword.
Well, that was easy......😕
No thanks, ..
Out of curiosity, what makes you say that? What other products can not only detect the frequency response of a signal, but correct it so you have a clean signal for your amp?
@@KICKER-AUDIOsupposedly that new Audio Control LC2i Pro line output converter does almost or similar to the same thing as the Keylock but I’m not to familiar with it.
I have an amplifier that can take a max of 4 V. I also have the key lock and looking at the specs it delivers up to 10 V. Is there a way to adjust it so it matches 4 V?
Yes. The "output" knob on the top controls voltage out.
@@firebirdude2how do you tell what voltage it’s putting out
@jamesfair9751 use a multimedia set to AC Volts. I use an old male end rca cable and strip off insulation to expose the wires inside. Hook your multimeter to those wire. Turn up your head unit to 3/4 volume and increase the output until you reach your amps input sensitivity voltage. Good luck