Thanks mate, it's a bit different to the usual content and filmed differently too. That vid was all filmed on the new phone. The footage and fast auto focus give great footage.absolute pain to edit compared the GoPro and DJI cameras though...😉
@@tillysgunstocks Looking forward to more. Quality over quantity, there's only so much airgun content that can be made interesting as other channels have discovered.
Very interesting video! This is the first time I've seen the internals of a compressor up close and personal. I've been hand pumping my two PCPs for the past year, but at 69YO I'm fast approaching having to consider a compressor. This video taught me more than all the other research I've done online. Thank you SO MUCH! I always look forward to your work!
That's great news mate thank you 😉 A compressor of sorts is an absolute game changer really. The convenience of it really is the important thing for me. These cheap compressor aren't too bad as long as you have adequate online moisture filters and understand that it'll likely need regular service/maintenance All in all I'm happy with this one so far all things considered 😉
1. Copper ‘corrosion’ is blue’ish-green. 2. I recently stripped a 2ndhand AA S400 because it was slowly leaking air. There was surface rust in the air cylinder. The surface rust, in the form of a fine brown dust, had got into the firing valve (poppet valve and seat) causing the leak. The gun had been filled with a typical Chinese compressor, which I believe introduced moisture to the air cylinder. The rust in your compressor (and your comment about the buddy bottle) strengthens my belief the Chinese compressors do introduce moisture to your pcp unless you buy an effective moisture separator. I suggest you strip the guns you have filled with compressor.
You are quite correct regarding compressors introducing moisture. I can't remember the exact physics as that was a long time ago, loosely speaking it is related to liquids not being compressable but gasses are, so as the gasses are compressed it forces the liquid to separate and then tending to gather. This is why the majority of receivers (tanks) are usually fitted with drains. Next time a truck is close enough you will see a drain at the bottom of the air brake cylinders, a lot of older truck would have the drain location marked, or "drain weekly" painted on them. So regarding your belief that "Chinese compressors do introduce moisture". It is allready there. They are just less likely to have any equipment to capture it as they cost cut to undermine good quality equipment. Which is another reason why I try to avoid "cheaper" equipment. Sorry if that sounded like a personal attack or as if I was defending questionable quality of far east products. It certainly was not intended as such.
£130+£50 for decent filter. Great little units in my opinion. Easy to work on, very cheap replacement parts. Everything that can wear can be replaced for a couple of quid. Probably not the best purchase for people who aren't mechanically minded but for the price and for the intended use, I think they are spot on. Great video as always Mr Tilly.
Cheers mate, it's so easy to work on and there's definitely scope to further improve it... I need to sort the alignment out to stop the crank smacking the con rod down on every rotation,I suspect that the rear seal (although it looks good) has sustained some damage. Ill get round to it eventually and also add some ports for periodic oiling.. 😉
@@tillysgunstocks This may sound like a silly suggestion. Once you have improved the alignment of the crank would it be worth making some guide/packing pieces from delrin or teflon? There must be some industrial place that dumps suitable offcuts. I watch with eager anticipation as I was given a different unit with the same compressor that is mounted vertically and it makes exactly the same unhappy clunking noise as yours. Another cracking presentation by your good self as usual.
I enjoy hearing how people have got on with their various small compressors, like you I have a long journey to get my bottle filled, so decided to get one of the water-cooled compressors. I've had it a couple of years now and it's still working fine, I think excessive heat is probably something that would shorten it's life so I bought a 3 litre bottle, filling from around 200 bar back to 300 bar takes less than 10 minutes, so not too much heat generated. I also have a Hills stirrup pump - still works after about 5 years of use, although it's had a few seals and stuff. On your compressor I would have thought the piston rings would need replacing after a year or so, strange there weren't any in the repair kit. Looking forward to hearing how you get on with modifying your Tuxing, with the connecting rod issue, could you elongate the slot a bit more so the follower doesn't hit the bottom of the slot?
I think it's a learning curve for all of us mate as we iron out the kinks in the design of the compressors. Yeah this particular piston only comes as a complete unit,it's only about 15quid so won't break the bank and worth a punt. I'm half expecting to see the grease in the bore migrate out the rear seal. That smack from the crank isn't doing it any favours. I had considered elongating the big end slot a bit,but I've not really got the best tooling here for that,well not neatly anyhow. I think I'm going to drill the captive nuts out in the pressed Steel frame and elongate them holes with a file to slots so I can lower the cylinder down a few mill. Just pop some nylock nuts on the inside. Should be easy to do with the tools I've got to hand in the shed. I'll do a video as it progresses,it might well keep plenty of others in better health going forward 😉
Morning Phil, I've got a pair of large blue inline filters I use mate. Male and female snap fit fosters that go inline, they work well tbh. 😉 I need to sort the knock out longer term though, every rotation of the crank smacks the Conrod downward,can't be doing that rear bearing /seal any good atall 😬
Thanx fir the video, cheers. When my Nomad2 eventually dies I will be getting a cheap Tuxing to replace it, as you say taking into account time and fuel to get to dive shops etc, they pay for themselves and you have the independence and freedom to fill whenever.
Cheers mate, from what I gather the nomad is a rebranded tuxing so should be able to be repaired with relative ease🤔 For those of us who can tinker,these tuxings aren't bad really when you know the pitfalls , especially for the modest price... 😉
Yep if I had a local dive shop I'd probably stick with a bottle,but it is convenient for short top ups with the compressor especially on the 300bar fill stuff😉
A very informative and interesting video. I do look at PCPs from time to time but am always get put off by what is required and the extra points of failure. Amazon around Black Friday were doing the Tuxing 63 for £230 and I think that model is the same as the Wulf. The Hills is approaching £900 and although may be good is not indestructible. While I have my health I will stick with springers as they have fewer parts than a toaster.
On the tuxing i own there is a clear plastic tube coming from the inlet to to outer casing.this is where you add a few drops of silicone oil every few fills,so obviously oil is sucked in to lubricate the piston
This one is begging for a few mods, luckily spares are super cheap and readily available. There's scope to make some significant improvement,which for the modest price isn't really a problem 😉
Cheers mate. It's just like adult Lego ,very easy to work on. There's definitely scope to make improvements and get it running smoothly. When I get time 🫣
I'm going to have a look mate at adding an oiling port, possibly something from a higher spec model that can be retro fitted. I'm monitoring it for a bit with the grease to see wether it migrated out the rear seal. I can't imagine (although it feels good) that it's as airtight as we want now🤔
Be interesting to see whats going on with the grease probably just wiped away, you could invest in some Teflon grease and do the same it leaves a slippery surface once wiped away, great for us to ride along thanks again.
Thank You for the video! I have done the math when I bought mt first PCP and the compressor was so not worth it. You just confirmed my predictions - 5 fills and it is dead ... It might change when You can not fill the bottles easy as time is money ;).
It's pretty lazy maths my end mate, I have bottles at the club too that I use. So my 5 full fills(12litre) is an estimate of what I'd have used at home and not the club. The biggest issue is the higher fill pressures of stuff like the katran. Lucky to get a couple of 300bar fills off a fresh bottle and short fills from there on. The convenience of it though... Well worth it..😉
Fascinating video. Regarding the 'knocking' as the bearing runs up and down the con rod, could you get the slot machined out at each end to prevent that? The bearing only presses the sides of the slot, not the ends so the length of the slot isn't critical.
It was cool to see it eh.. that's why it was filmed over 2 days. I had to formulate a plan to try and re align it all. I did strip the gearbox and bits too but the vid was long enough already 😆and my idea didn't work... I think I'm going to drill out the captive nuts in the box section and just slot the holes with a file. I don't have much Metal working stuff in the shed to do a clean job of opening up the big end bearing piece. I'll just fit some nylock nuts to the long bolts with it lowered a few mill. Hopefully that will work out ok with what I've got here and should align it nicely.. 😉
Thanks for that. Really well explained. At some point I will succumb to a PCP and torn shoulde rmuscle of years ago says a compressor will be needed. Impressed really, overall well made and not deliberatel made un serviceable. All he bset to all of us for this year and onwards. Keith
Hi mate, I think one of the most recent tuxings with the better filtration and a good quality inline moisture filter could be a good bet. They're pretty good spares wise,if you're handy with the spanners 😉
I would consider changing the fibre washers on the small piston shaft. I had the nomad 2 pump and it wouldn't build pressure. Changing that solved my issue. Great video though, thanks.
Absolutely mate, this piston needs sorting. Once I've checked the rear seal and alignment of the compressor to motor ,I'll either strip this piston or replace it. This one doesn't appear to be serviceable like later ones that have a screw slot across the end to allow removal of the small piston ring though.. I'll have to dive deeper 😉
This is a very funny yes a couple of days ago I rebuild mine. It looks pretty much like yours, except it’s orange on the top in the case of mine the main earring have broke first and they sent me a new one after guarantee but when I put it together, it wouldn’t pump up so I clean all the check valves and added a couple of drops of silicone oil it’s working now, but it does take a couple of minutes to warm up enough so I can pump Let me know how it goes with yours. I might need to put some silicone grease inside instead of silicone oil.
The main reason I tried the grease mate, was to see if any works it's way out the back of the main con rod seal. It feels ok but I feel it might have been damaged with the constant banging from the crankshaft 🤔 not entirely sure just yet,but it's a fun little project and doesn't owe me any money now 😉😎
With regard to the black residue, I think it was some form of burnt lubricant as they found the same thing in my rifle cylinder when it went for a service, I use a manual pump and silicone grease on the moving parts as suggested by the manufacturer, the lube had created that black residue that you see in your compressor tube, the particles had not been filtered out before it got to my rifle cylinder as the manual pump is not quite that advanced.
Hi mate, I'm inclined to agree it's most likely burnt up silicon oil. I wish I'd pulled it apart from new to see what ,if any lube was in the bore then.. It'll be interesting to see how the grease lasts for a few fills. I'm half expecting it to have migrated out the rear seal where the con rod gets smacked on each revolution ,the rear seal could be ovalled or something 🤔
My New Warrior 300 Classic is now almost five years old and has never missed a beat. Best £134 I ever spent AND it fills dive bottles as my shooting mates will confirm.
I saw these some years ago, back then it was easier for me to get bottles filled ,but nowdays I run the compressor,bottles occasionally and the club also has bottles of I need a top up there. It's great we have such choice available eh!
Great video,well presented. If the air corrodes the ball bearing that badly what is it doing to the internals of the gun. Same goes for the crud in the cylinder. Dive air quality must be safer for the reliability of £3k gun.
Cheers mate 😀 bit different feel and filming in this vid.. Regards the rotten bearing, strangely the upstream one , although grotty was nowhere near as corroded. Best guess is the bleed valve chewed it up and the plating started to break away from it and was ejected on bleeding it. It'll be swapped for a stainless one when they arrive... And I'll monitor it. Surprisingly the inline whip filters do a decent job of stopping moisture before they reach the air cylinder.. of i didn't have the 300bar fill rifles then it'd probably best to stick with the dive bottles tbh 😉
Nice Job .. I got a Nomad II going into lockdown which is a massively over priced rebadged Tuxing (but does have the moisture trap, extra internal filter and has Silicon Oil Lub system) worked brill for couple years. While the maths versus dive bottle was always never going to work, I just loved the convenience of having a home compressor, so upgraded to the UK made Hills EVO just over a year ago. In your maths you did not take into account the £200 (or so) to buy the 7l dive bottle and the £50 every 5 years to get tested
It was bloke maths😆😆 I'm kinda curious now with the tuxing how long I can keep it running for. The parts are super cheap and I'd like to look at adding some sort of oiling port ,maybe the bits from the higher spec models will retro fit... Not sure but it doesn't owe me anything now..and well I just like to mess about with this stuff 🤔😆
Yeah the smut inside the cylinder and fittings is micron size dust out of the air. Silicon oil can't "burn up" in this application but it can turn into a paste when mixed with small particles. It does indicate that better inlet filtering is required. That sintered metal filter is only enough to keep grit out, which would of course kill the compressor very quickly. I will be interested in seeing how that has been upgraded in later models. Overall I don't think this has changed my mind about getting one, not when I consider what the gun shop is charging me for just a hand pump.
That's interesting regarding the fine dust mate. I've got some plans for down the line so we can collect any dust from the inlet using some of my dust mask material. It'll be interesting to monitor it. Got a few tweeks to make first but overall It wasn't a bad buy so far 😉
@@tillysgunstocks Yes good idea on the filtration. It would be great if we could screw a P3 cannister (eg 3M brand) onto the inlet but there's not enough room in the case. Taping some P2 mask material over the sintered filter will probably work almost as well. If/When I get one I'll probably do this mod right out of the gate unless they've added something to it.
I also stripped down all the gearbox on the motor too, but the vid was already way too long 😆 I would say though mate, that this is the sort of level of service work this type of compressor will need periodically to keep them running well 😬😉
Great tutorial! I haven't seen the guts of the Tuxing before... My GX EL-2 seems a lot easier to maintain. Fewer screws anyway.😀 On my first teardown I too found a lot of moisture remaining on the inside from the last fill. That prompted me to add a female QC fitting to the outlet of the 'manifold(?)' block. After every fill I disconnect the hose and run the compressor for a few seconds. That purges quite a bit of residual water from the bottom end.
This one is pretty good in terms of moisture getting into the cylinders. The little filter needs changing every fortnight,but the large inline ones I have stay particularly dry. The moisture seems to just stay in the compressor and eats it away 😆
Thank’s for looking at one of these compressors and showing how they are built & work . I’m not convinced they are safe with regards moisture/vapour getting transferred to the gun ! I know you have checked the bottle you use when filling your guns ,but are you sure water/vapour is not transferring into the cylinder on your actual gun 🤔Great vid !
Hi mate, yeah all my cylinders are showing no signs of corrosion or anything sketchy. Saying that though, none of my rifles bar the steel cylinder on the s510 have anything ferrous inside of them. Infact most don't even have much in the way of brass. Often we see pics of heavy green corrosion on brass parts , a few people tell me that is often down to the lubricants used as it seems quite common on the BSA PCPs even ones that have been filled with dry dive bottle air. Having said that, it's never good to be complacent and decent inline filtration is a must 😉
Thanks for the confirmation that all is well ,i’ve all ways use dive bottle air ,as i know it’s dry ! Filtration in-line filter is the way to go ,was not aware of that ! Years ago i had a hills manual pump with the add on that was to remove moisture ! Pumped up my rapids bottle and when detaching line (water poured out from the hose /connector ,sort of put me off !
Looks like if you are happy to service it yourself and work on it a bit, then it isn't too bad a buy. You could easily modify the inlet to allow you to add in some oil from time to time, maybe even add a desiccant filter to the inlet. Would probably be interesting to strip down a brand new one, to see what condition it comes in from the factory.
Hi mate,I'm kinda gutted I didn't strip this one from new and see what it was like in the bore from factory. I've got an idea for some t pieces each end of the piston to allow oiling and dowty washers to seal it back up. It's just like adult Lego really. There's plenty of scope to improve it. Got to get the crank and pistol aligned though first. Every rotation smacks the con rod down and the rear seal is getting a beating. Theres really nothing inside that is overly complex which is great.. 😉
That appears to be a 3 stage compressor. First stage is the big piston without the rod, the air goes through the short copper tube to the rod side of the big piston, then is forced from there to the small inner cylinder for the final stage. Be sure to lubricate the small inner piston and cylinder also.
Absolutely mate, got to sort the alignment first then I'll look at either a new piston or seeing if I can dismantle this one to replace the mini seals in the central housing 😉
Do you think all that internal grime could be worn out piston ring? Mine has a pipe on the outer case leading to the compressor barrel I can drip silicone oil down. Yours seemed awfully dry inside.
It could be mate but I'm not entirely sure.i really wish I had stripped it from new and inspected it then. Currently best guess is burnt up lubricant or dirt/dust ingress. However on the dust ingress there was no dust inside the inlet reed valve so not entirely sure right now.im sure I'll work it out in time and do an update vid 😉
To answer your original question, depends on how far you are from a person/shop for bottle refills. My local gun shop closed about 18 months ago and the next nearest is about 40 miles away, so that's 80 miles round trip just to drop the bottles off. Time for a compressor but in the meantime I got the spring guns out 😎👍. Eventually got a Hills unit, brilliant kit with no problems except for empty wallet syndrome 😂. I think you have been fortunate enough to get a unit that appears well made but with certain design errors. Cheap pumps worry me with all that pressure, ok for engineers to fettle but not for the average shooters? Thanks for confirming what I thought about cheap pumps and getting me re aquanted with my spring guns 😎👍
Interestingly mate Some of these failed British standard testing on the power supply unit. My one would fail that. But not one model so far has failed on the actual compressor or high pressure parts,which is kinda reassuring.. The hill doesn't make sense for me right now as I've got bottles here and the club has them too. But it'd sure be nice to have a British one..
I have seen your wiring issues 🙀, very scary. Do wonder if a quality filter system may have prevented the internal debris 🤔 From an old man with over 60 years experience, still learning, thanks 👍
The WULF compressor from the UK costs around £399.95 and also has a 2 year warranty. As for your Tuxing price comparison with going to the local store for air fills, you forgot to add the cost of electricity to run the compressor. Maybe new piston rings would help the Tuxing?
😆lol yeah it was just a bit of bloke maths.. The wulf compressor is just a rebranded tuxing of sorts, 90% of the smaller ones originated there, and yep absolutely it needs the rings replacing although it looks like this piston is only available as a complete unit🤔
@@tillysgunstocks Yeah unfortunately most products are made in China these days and a lot of them are virtually the same units with a different brand name. I own the 'ToAuto' which looks almost exactly the same as your Tuxing, other than my ToAuto is a nice bright orange. I've rarely used it as of yet so only time will tell if it lasts or not. I don't think my ToAuto bleed screw has a bearing and has a pointed tip instead.
Yes to both mate. I'll let the guys at the club know about the other chap. Often it's a run over to Ramsgate or cliftonville.. I've got a couple dive bottles as do the club and I've the tuxing for the high pressure fills. I'll get it up and running well in time, should be fairly easy to sort it.. I hope...
It's not about the economy though yes they do pay for themselves and in my case make enough to cover the purchase of a new one. It's about the convenience and not having to waste half a day hanging around waiting for the dive shop to fill it. My advice is to buy the more powerful mains units like my New Warrior and at least a 3 litre bottle. Mine is perfectly capable of filling my 7 litre bottle.
Wasted time and money on cheap compressors ,luckily all under warranty so forked out for a hills well worth the extra .I was told as a young apprentice cabinet maker ,a poor craftsman only buys the best tools as they will last a long time .
He starts pistol shooting & puts out "bad equipment videos"... hmmm 😏 Where's the cooling!!!!! I wouldnt run that for more than 3min without letting it cool down. My cheapie has an insane fan on it that blows a gale & I still only use it for 5-10min at a time. The outside of components may feel cool, but those internal parts could be much hotter... cooling, cooling, cooling... Add a decent PC cooling fan on the side next to the cylinder as a minimum
@@tillysgunstocks ahhh there it is... hard to see with such a poor lighting setup, how am I expected to work in these conditions??? Poor position - no direct cooling on the pressure tubes on the top & with a thin wall the top & un-lubed(?) part of that cylinder may be a little warm. A+ on the IR work though, probably just really crappy grease
Brilliant video, i had the exact same compressor, it started shutting down at a 100bar and blowing the fuse. So did a complete rebuild, new seals, O rings, silicone oil, everything etc, switched it on, it's now pumping slower than before and still shutting down at 100bar, figured out the motor is burning out, my mistake trying to fill a 12ltr bottle! from 230bar to 290bar, took over an hour and 5 stops to cool, not a good idea, NEVER try and fill anything bigger than your rifle, i'll buy a new one for gun filling at home only, get your 12ltr bottles filled Professionally!!...
Even though I've no interest in buying one of these cheap compressors I really enjoyed this video, I think it's your best one yet. 👍
Thanks mate, it's a bit different to the usual content and filmed differently too. That vid was all filmed on the new phone. The footage and fast auto focus give great footage.absolute pain to edit compared the GoPro and DJI cameras though...😉
@@tillysgunstocks Looking forward to more. Quality over quantity, there's only so much airgun content that can be made interesting as other channels have discovered.
Very interesting video! This is the first time I've seen the internals of a compressor up close and personal. I've been hand pumping my two PCPs for the past year, but at 69YO I'm fast approaching having to consider a compressor. This video taught me more than all the other research I've done online. Thank you SO MUCH! I always look forward to your work!
That's great news mate thank you 😉
A compressor of sorts is an absolute game changer really. The convenience of it really is the important thing for me.
These cheap compressor aren't too bad as long as you have adequate online moisture filters and understand that it'll likely need regular service/maintenance
All in all I'm happy with this one so far all things considered 😉
Good update on the little compressor enjoyable watch 👍
Thanks mate 😀
1. Copper ‘corrosion’ is blue’ish-green.
2. I recently stripped a 2ndhand AA S400 because it was slowly leaking air. There was surface rust in the air cylinder. The surface rust, in the form of a fine brown dust, had got into the firing valve (poppet valve and seat) causing the leak. The gun had been filled with a typical Chinese compressor, which I believe introduced moisture to the air cylinder.
The rust in your compressor (and your comment about the buddy bottle) strengthens my belief the Chinese compressors do introduce moisture to your pcp unless you buy an effective moisture separator. I suggest you strip the guns you have filled with compressor.
You are quite correct regarding compressors introducing moisture. I can't remember the exact physics as that was a long time ago, loosely speaking it is related to liquids not being compressable but gasses are, so as the gasses are compressed it forces the liquid to separate and then tending to gather. This is why the majority of receivers (tanks) are usually fitted with drains. Next time a truck is close enough you will see a drain at the bottom of the air brake cylinders, a lot of older truck would have the drain location marked, or "drain weekly" painted on them.
So regarding your belief that "Chinese compressors do introduce moisture". It is allready there. They are just less likely to have any equipment to capture it as they cost cut to undermine good quality equipment. Which is another reason why I try to avoid "cheaper" equipment.
Sorry if that sounded like a personal attack or as if I was defending questionable quality of far east products. It certainly was not intended as such.
£130+£50 for decent filter. Great little units in my opinion. Easy to work on, very cheap replacement parts. Everything that can wear can be replaced for a couple of quid. Probably not the best purchase for people who aren't mechanically minded but for the price and for the intended use, I think they are spot on. Great video as always Mr Tilly.
Cheers mate, it's so easy to work on and there's definitely scope to further improve it... I need to sort the alignment out to stop the crank smacking the con rod down on every rotation,I suspect that the rear seal (although it looks good) has sustained some damage. Ill get round to it eventually and also add some ports for periodic oiling.. 😉
Another great video,you are a braver man than me
@madness6780 brave or stupid...I'm not so sure 😆😆 😉
@@tillysgunstocks This may sound like a silly suggestion. Once you have improved the alignment of the crank would it be worth making some guide/packing pieces from delrin or teflon? There must be some industrial place that dumps suitable offcuts. I watch with eager anticipation as I was given a different unit with the same compressor that is mounted vertically and it makes exactly the same unhappy clunking noise as yours.
Another cracking presentation by your good self as usual.
I enjoy hearing how people have got on with their various small compressors, like you I have a long journey to get my bottle filled, so decided to get one of the water-cooled compressors. I've had it a couple of years now and it's still working fine, I think excessive heat is probably something that would shorten it's life so I bought a 3 litre bottle, filling from around 200 bar back to 300 bar takes less than 10 minutes, so not too much heat generated. I also have a Hills stirrup pump - still works after about 5 years of use, although it's had a few seals and stuff. On your compressor I would have thought the piston rings would need replacing after a year or so, strange there weren't any in the repair kit. Looking forward to hearing how you get on with modifying your Tuxing, with the connecting rod issue, could you elongate the slot a bit more so the follower doesn't hit the bottom of the slot?
I think it's a learning curve for all of us mate as we iron out the kinks in the design of the compressors.
Yeah this particular piston only comes as a complete unit,it's only about 15quid so won't break the bank and worth a punt.
I'm half expecting to see the grease in the bore migrate out the rear seal. That smack from the crank isn't doing it any favours.
I had considered elongating the big end slot a bit,but I've not really got the best tooling here for that,well not neatly anyhow. I think I'm going to drill the captive nuts out in the pressed Steel frame and elongate them holes with a file to slots so I can lower the cylinder down a few mill. Just pop some nylock nuts on the inside. Should be easy to do with the tools I've got to hand in the shed.
I'll do a video as it progresses,it might well keep plenty of others in better health going forward 😉
Great video again, get yourself a better in- line filter to prevent oil/water getting into your guns/bottle.
Morning Phil, I've got a pair of large blue inline filters I use mate. Male and female snap fit fosters that go inline, they work well tbh. 😉
I need to sort the knock out longer term though, every rotation of the crank smacks the Conrod downward,can't be doing that rear bearing /seal any good atall 😬
interesting vid Tom, 👍 the thin metal flap is a reed valve
Hi mate. Damn it.. I knew it had a particular name🫣😆 but couldn't place it when filming.. I'm a bit too young to have been a 2stroke tinkerer... 😎
Thanx fir the video, cheers. When my Nomad2 eventually dies I will be getting a cheap Tuxing to replace it, as you say taking into account time and fuel to get to dive shops etc, they pay for themselves and you have the independence and freedom to fill whenever.
Cheers mate, from what I gather the nomad is a rebranded tuxing so should be able to be repaired with relative ease🤔
For those of us who can tinker,these tuxings aren't bad really when you know the pitfalls , especially for the modest price...
😉
I had the same and it lasted me about 4-5 months. Filling a large scuba tank every 2 months is much more convenient to me.
Yep if I had a local dive shop I'd probably stick with a bottle,but it is convenient for short top ups with the compressor especially on the 300bar fill stuff😉
A very informative and interesting video.
I do look at PCPs from time to time but am always get put off by what is required and the extra points of failure. Amazon around Black Friday were doing the Tuxing 63 for £230 and I think that model is the same as the Wulf. The Hills is approaching £900 and although may be good is not indestructible. While I have my health I will stick with springers as they have fewer parts than a toaster.
Come to the dark side of PCP... You know you want too 😈😈
😉😆
On the tuxing i own there is a clear plastic tube coming from the inlet to to outer casing.this is where you add a few drops of silicone oil every few fills,so obviously oil is sucked in to lubricate the piston
This one is begging for a few mods, luckily spares are super cheap and readily available. There's scope to make some significant improvement,which for the modest price isn't really a problem 😉
Great tear down. Thanks for the insight
Cheers mate, something a bit different eh 😉
Really clear video.Good job.u my have helped out loads of people
Cheers mate. It's just like adult Lego ,very easy to work on. There's definitely scope to make improvements and get it running smoothly. When I get time 🫣
I did wonder if a touch of silicon oil on the sintered filter would atomise oil into the internals, nice little unit for the money great job👍
I'm going to have a look mate at adding an oiling port, possibly something from a higher spec model that can be retro fitted.
I'm monitoring it for a bit with the grease to see wether it migrated out the rear seal. I can't imagine (although it feels good) that it's as airtight as we want now🤔
Be interesting to see whats going on with the grease probably just wiped away, you could invest in some Teflon grease and do the same it leaves a slippery surface once wiped away, great for us to ride along thanks again.
Thank You for the video!
I have done the math when I bought mt first PCP and the compressor was so not worth it. You just confirmed my predictions - 5 fills and it is dead ... It might change when You can not fill the bottles easy as time is money ;).
It's pretty lazy maths my end mate, I have bottles at the club too that I use. So my 5 full fills(12litre) is an estimate of what I'd have used at home and not the club.
The biggest issue is the higher fill pressures of stuff like the katran. Lucky to get a couple of 300bar fills off a fresh bottle and short fills from there on.
The convenience of it though... Well worth it..😉
Fascinating video. Regarding the 'knocking' as the bearing runs up and down the con rod, could you get the slot machined out at each end to prevent that? The bearing only presses the sides of the slot, not the ends so the length of the slot isn't critical.
It was cool to see it eh.. that's why it was filmed over 2 days. I had to formulate a plan to try and re align it all. I did strip the gearbox and bits too but the vid was long enough already 😆and my idea didn't work...
I think I'm going to drill out the captive nuts in the box section and just slot the holes with a file. I don't have much
Metal working stuff in the shed to do a clean job of opening up the big end bearing piece. I'll just fit some nylock nuts to the long bolts with it lowered a few mill. Hopefully that will work out ok with what I've got here and should align it nicely.. 😉
Thanks for that. Really well explained. At some point I will succumb to a PCP and torn shoulde rmuscle of years ago says a compressor will be needed. Impressed really, overall well made and not deliberatel made un serviceable. All he bset to all of us for this year and onwards. Keith
Hi mate, I think one of the most recent tuxings with the better filtration and a good quality inline moisture filter could be a good bet. They're pretty good spares wise,if you're handy with the spanners 😉
I would consider changing the fibre washers on the small piston shaft. I had the nomad 2 pump and it wouldn't build pressure. Changing that solved my issue. Great video though, thanks.
Absolutely mate, this piston needs sorting. Once I've checked the rear seal and alignment of the compressor to motor ,I'll either strip this piston or replace it. This one doesn't appear to be serviceable like later ones that have a screw slot across the end to allow removal of the small piston ring though.. I'll have to dive deeper 😉
This is a very funny yes a couple of days ago I rebuild mine. It looks pretty much like yours, except it’s orange on the top in the case of mine the main earring have broke first and they sent me a new one after guarantee but when I put it together, it wouldn’t pump up so I clean all the check valves and added a couple of drops of silicone oil it’s working now, but it does take a couple of minutes to warm up enough so I can pump Let me know how it goes with yours. I might need to put some silicone grease inside instead of silicone oil.
The main reason I tried the grease mate, was to see if any works it's way out the back of the main con rod seal. It feels ok but I feel it might have been damaged with the constant banging from the crankshaft 🤔 not entirely sure just yet,but it's a fun little project and doesn't owe me any money now 😉😎
With regard to the black residue, I think it was some form of burnt lubricant as they found the same thing in my rifle cylinder when it went for a service, I use a manual pump and silicone grease on the moving parts as suggested by the manufacturer, the lube had created that black residue that you see in your compressor tube, the particles had not been filtered out before it got to my rifle cylinder as the manual pump is not quite that advanced.
Hi mate, I'm inclined to agree it's most likely burnt up silicon oil. I wish I'd pulled it apart from new to see what ,if any lube was in the bore then..
It'll be interesting to see how the grease lasts for a few fills. I'm half expecting it to have migrated out the rear seal where the con rod gets smacked on each revolution ,the rear seal could be ovalled or something 🤔
My New Warrior 300 Classic is now almost five years old and has never missed a beat. Best £134 I ever spent AND it fills dive bottles as my shooting mates will confirm.
I saw these some years ago, back then it was easier for me to get bottles filled ,but nowdays I run the compressor,bottles occasionally and the club also has bottles of I need a top up there.
It's great we have such choice available eh!
Great video,well presented. If the air corrodes the ball bearing that badly what is it doing to the internals of the gun. Same goes for the crud in the cylinder. Dive air quality must be safer for the reliability of £3k gun.
Cheers mate 😀 bit different feel and filming in this vid..
Regards the rotten bearing, strangely the upstream one , although grotty was nowhere near as corroded. Best guess is the bleed valve chewed it up and the plating started to break away from it and was ejected on bleeding it. It'll be swapped for a stainless one when they arrive... And I'll monitor it.
Surprisingly the inline whip filters do a decent job of stopping moisture before they reach the air cylinder.. of i didn't have the 300bar fill rifles then it'd probably best to stick with the dive bottles tbh 😉
Nice Job .. I got a Nomad II going into lockdown which is a massively over priced rebadged Tuxing (but does have the moisture trap, extra internal filter and has Silicon Oil Lub system) worked brill for couple years. While the maths versus dive bottle was always never going to work, I just loved the convenience of having a home compressor, so upgraded to the UK made Hills EVO just over a year ago. In your maths you did not take into account the £200 (or so) to buy the 7l dive bottle and the £50 every 5 years to get tested
It was bloke maths😆😆
I'm kinda curious now with the tuxing how long I can keep it running for. The parts are super cheap and I'd like to look at adding some sort of oiling port ,maybe the bits from the higher spec models will retro fit... Not sure but it doesn't owe me anything now..and well I just like to mess about with this stuff 🤔😆
Yeah the smut inside the cylinder and fittings is micron size dust out of the air. Silicon oil can't "burn up" in this application but it can turn into a paste when mixed with small particles. It does indicate that better inlet filtering is required. That sintered metal filter is only enough to keep grit out, which would of course kill the compressor very quickly. I will be interested in seeing how that has been upgraded in later models.
Overall I don't think this has changed my mind about getting one, not when I consider what the gun shop is charging me for just a hand pump.
That's interesting regarding the fine dust mate. I've got some plans for down the line so we can collect any dust from the inlet using some of my dust mask material. It'll be interesting to monitor it. Got a few tweeks to make first but overall It wasn't a bad buy so far 😉
@@tillysgunstocks Yes good idea on the filtration. It would be great if we could screw a P3 cannister (eg 3M brand) onto the inlet but there's not enough room in the case. Taping some P2 mask material over the sintered filter will probably work almost as well. If/When I get one I'll probably do this mod right out of the gate unless they've added something to it.
I'd wager there aren't many viewers who would do that extensive a tear down! I sure wouldn't want to.
I also stripped down all the gearbox on the motor too, but the vid was already way too long 😆
I would say though mate, that this is the sort of level of service work this type of compressor will need periodically to keep them running well 😬😉
After seeing this video, I would attempt with my toauto. Thanks
@@darwinwilde6973 awesome stuff mate glad the vids been of use 😉
@@tillysgunstocks I just bought one, not this brand, but I sure hope I don't have to take it apart to this degree!
Great tutorial!
I haven't seen the guts of the Tuxing before...
My GX EL-2 seems a lot easier to maintain. Fewer screws anyway.😀
On my first teardown I too found a lot of moisture remaining on the inside from the last fill.
That prompted me to add a female QC fitting to the outlet of the 'manifold(?)' block.
After every fill I disconnect the hose and run the compressor for a few seconds. That purges quite a bit of residual water from the bottom end.
Bummer. Looks like I can't post a link to my channel's video that shows how much water is expelled...
This one is pretty good in terms of moisture getting into the cylinders. The little filter needs changing every fortnight,but the large inline ones I have stay particularly dry. The moisture seems to just stay in the compressor and eats it away 😆
Thank’s for looking at one of these compressors and showing how they are built & work .
I’m not convinced they are safe with regards moisture/vapour getting transferred to the gun !
I know you have checked the bottle you use when filling your
guns ,but are you sure water/vapour is not transferring into the cylinder on your actual gun 🤔Great vid !
Hi mate, yeah all my cylinders are showing no signs of corrosion or anything sketchy.
Saying that though, none of my rifles bar the steel cylinder on the s510 have anything ferrous inside of them. Infact most don't even have much in the way of brass. Often we see pics of heavy green corrosion on brass parts , a few people tell me that is often down to the lubricants used as it seems quite common on the BSA PCPs even ones that have been filled with dry dive bottle air.
Having said that, it's never good to be complacent and decent inline filtration is a must 😉
Thanks for the confirmation that all is well ,i’ve all ways use dive bottle air ,as i know it’s dry !
Filtration in-line filter is the way to go ,was not aware of that !
Years ago i had a hills manual pump with the add on that was to remove moisture !
Pumped up my rapids bottle and when detaching line (water poured out from the hose /connector ,sort of put me off !
Great video, but where can you get a Hills for £600?
That's what I could get one for 18 months ago when I bought el cheapo😳 I've just looked at current models... That's a fair chunk of money now 🫣
@tillysgunstocks I was looking at one the other day, amazing compressor, but not cheap
Looks like if you are happy to service it yourself and work on it a bit, then it isn't too bad a buy. You could easily modify the inlet to allow you to add in some oil from time to time, maybe even add a desiccant filter to the inlet. Would probably be interesting to strip down a brand new one, to see what condition it comes in from the factory.
Hi mate,I'm kinda gutted I didn't strip this one from new and see what it was like in the bore from factory.
I've got an idea for some t pieces each end of the piston to allow oiling and dowty washers to seal it back up.
It's just like adult Lego really. There's plenty of scope to improve it.
Got to get the crank and pistol aligned though first. Every rotation smacks the con rod down and the rear seal is getting a beating.
Theres really nothing inside that is overly complex which is great..
😉
That appears to be a 3 stage compressor. First stage is the big piston without the rod, the air goes through the short copper tube to the rod side of the big piston, then is forced from there to the small inner cylinder for the final stage. Be sure to lubricate the small inner piston and cylinder also.
Absolutely mate, got to sort the alignment first then I'll look at either a new piston or seeing if I can dismantle this one to replace the mini seals in the central housing 😉
Do you think all that internal grime could be worn out piston ring?
Mine has a pipe on the outer case leading to the compressor barrel I can drip silicone oil down. Yours seemed awfully dry inside.
It could be mate but I'm not entirely sure.i really wish I had stripped it from new and inspected it then.
Currently best guess is burnt up lubricant or dirt/dust ingress. However on the dust ingress there was no dust inside the inlet reed valve so not entirely sure right now.im sure I'll work it out in time and do an update vid 😉
To answer your original question, depends on how far you are from a person/shop for bottle refills. My local gun shop closed about 18 months ago and the next nearest is about 40 miles away, so that's 80 miles round trip just to drop the bottles off. Time for a compressor but in the meantime I got the spring guns out 😎👍. Eventually got a Hills unit, brilliant kit with no problems except for empty wallet syndrome 😂. I think you have been fortunate enough to get a unit that appears well made but with certain design errors. Cheap pumps worry me with all that pressure, ok for engineers to fettle but not for the average shooters? Thanks for confirming what I thought about cheap pumps and getting me re aquanted with my spring guns 😎👍
Interestingly mate Some of these failed British standard testing on the power supply unit. My one would fail that. But not one model so far has failed on the actual compressor or high pressure parts,which is kinda reassuring..
The hill doesn't make sense for me right now as I've got bottles here and the club has them too. But it'd sure be nice to have a British one..
I have seen your wiring issues 🙀, very scary. Do wonder if a quality filter system may have prevented the internal debris 🤔 From an old man with over 60 years experience, still learning, thanks 👍
The WULF compressor from the UK costs around £399.95 and also has a 2 year warranty. As for your Tuxing price comparison with going to the local store for air fills, you forgot to add the cost of electricity to run the compressor. Maybe new piston rings would help the Tuxing?
😆lol yeah it was just a bit of bloke maths..
The wulf compressor is just a rebranded tuxing of sorts, 90% of the smaller ones originated there, and yep absolutely it needs the rings replacing although it looks like this piston is only available as a complete unit🤔
@@tillysgunstocks Yeah unfortunately most products are made in China these days and a lot of them are virtually the same units with a different brand name. I own the 'ToAuto' which looks almost exactly the same as your Tuxing, other than my ToAuto is a nice bright orange. I've rarely used it as of yet so only time will tell if it lasts or not. I don't think my ToAuto bleed screw has a bearing and has a pointed tip instead.
The black dust in the cylinder may have been dry lub?
Possibly mate, I can't be certain.. I wish I'd stripped it from new now and given it an inspection 😬
I take it you use Kent Scuba, good guy but Kent Gunsmith is a fiver a fill and gives a full fill.
Do you shoot at S&D near the Heron ?
Yes to both mate. I'll let the guys at the club know about the other chap. Often it's a run over to Ramsgate or cliftonville..
I've got a couple dive bottles as do the club and I've the tuxing for the high pressure fills.
I'll get it up and running well in time, should be fairly easy to sort it.. I hope...
Mines working fine just bought it a better version though there was no bottle price on top of the fills
Yeah a bit of bloke maths there 😆😆. But we got the point .. 😉
It's not about the economy though yes they do pay for themselves and in my case make enough to cover the purchase of a new one. It's about the convenience and not having to waste half a day hanging around waiting for the dive shop to fill it. My advice is to buy the more powerful mains units like my New Warrior and at least a 3 litre bottle. Mine is perfectly capable of filling my 7 litre bottle.
old chinese proverb say" that which is shit flies to pieces"
I don't think it'd have been long before it went pop completely 😆
Wasted time and money on cheap compressors ,luckily all under warranty so forked out for a hills well worth the extra .I was told as a young apprentice cabinet maker ,a poor craftsman only buys the best tools as they will last a long time .
You're correct, I'm poor but my tools... They pay their keep😉
Replace the ball bearings with stainless steel.
That's what I've ordered mate 😀😉
That " cylinder" looks a lot like a repurposed hydraulic cylinder.
It could well be mate, I don't know for sure but I believe the principles are broadly the same🤔
He starts pistol shooting & puts out "bad equipment videos"... hmmm 😏
Where's the cooling!!!!! I wouldnt run that for more than 3min without letting it cool down.
My cheapie has an insane fan on it that blows a gale & I still only use it for 5-10min at a time.
The outside of components may feel cool, but those internal parts could be much hotter... cooling, cooling, cooling...
Add a decent PC cooling fan on the side next to the cylinder as a minimum
Turn your phone upside down, you'll see the savage little computer fan 😆😆 . It's seldom been over 30°c in use confirmed with my ir thermometer 😉
@@tillysgunstocks ahhh there it is... hard to see with such a poor lighting setup, how am I expected to work in these conditions???
Poor position - no direct cooling on the pressure tubes on the top & with a thin wall the top & un-lubed(?) part of that cylinder may be a little warm. A+ on the IR work though, probably just really crappy grease
Brilliant video, i had the exact same compressor, it started shutting down at a 100bar and blowing the fuse. So did a complete
rebuild, new seals, O rings, silicone oil, everything etc, switched it on, it's now pumping slower than before and still shutting
down at 100bar, figured out the motor is burning out, my mistake trying to fill a 12ltr bottle! from 230bar to 290bar, took over an
hour and 5 stops to cool, not a good idea, NEVER try and fill anything bigger than your rifle, i'll buy a new one for gun filling at
home only, get your 12ltr bottles filled Professionally!!...
Cor yeah these mini compressors are only really suited for direct fills, I imagine the poor thing would melt trying to do a 12ltr 😬🫣
@@tillysgunstocks It was bad!, it was running and sounded like an 100 year old stationary engine.😫