Thanks for good advice. 1641cc, w110, 40x35 with match port manifolds, twin 44s,melling full flow with extended sump, msd coil & 6AL. experienced something similar now I know the cause and fix.
I’m really damn glad I found this video because I’m putting together an 1835 right now, brand new to VW and I watched a JBugs video building a stroker and he used copper head shims. I put take the engine together last night and was like “shit I don’t have those.” I’m glad to find out they’re not necessary unless you’re doing it with purpose. So I cancelled my order. 🤣
Great video. I just took apart my 1970 enginge and put the paper gaskets because that's what the manual said to do. I guess I will have to go back and take them off now lol.
I have just fitted my jugs, but a bit tight to fit to the engine case, so I used a piece of wood pine, across the top of the jugs and hammer them in, I hope that is fine and won't damage the seal.
I should have had my gf's 1970 Squareback engine rebuilt professionally. Even with the new jugs & pistons, rebuilt heads and all the care I took, the fuel injection never liked either one of my rebuild attempts. Glad I (was) driving an old Subaru that ran cooler & quieter and got 40+MPG too!
Same way on air-cooled aircraft engines and marine diesels with independent cylinder heads. Some will use a copper or steel sealing ring but nothing else.
I realize this is an old video posting, but I can't figure how to contact you. I watch all you videos, and wanted to see if this might reach you. I purchased a Mahle cylinder/piston kit (85.5) along with a set of Big Valve HP heads. The top shoulder of the cylinder has a length of approximately .0600. The seating surface inside the head is .0500. With this configuration I have about .047 deck clearance between the top of piston and upper cylinder lip. The chrome molly rods are 5.394 in length. With the heads torque down, I have a significant gap between the top fins of the cylinder and the base of the head. I’m not sure why this exists.
No one could explain more detailed accurate VW specs and over all obviously countless years experience with these motors and different variations plain and simple enough for the average " Volkswagen turned me into a mechanic guy" better than you and the way you present it. I have gained quite a bit from your help. Appreciate it! I bought a totally restored 75 sb that burnt up when dual carbs were installed. I got it with a single carb but it has a ? cam it was fixed with large oil pump and flo through & exhaust. Is there a way to tell what size or displacement what have you, without removing the head? Thanks.
I can tell if it is a 1500 just by hearing it run. The 1500 has it's own distinctive sound. The 1600 dual port sounds like a tin can about to fall apart.
Hi Very clear and helpful video thankyou, I have a Q - would you ever use a sealant between the case and the barrel? I'm building my engine for my 67 beetle. All the parts are in good condition.
Great video I have a question how do you determine which spark plug to use because you have the short I think it's a half inch and then you have the long three-quarter inch and I believe there are different threads 12mm 14mm which plug to use
Hey, A question slightly different from the actual topic, can I machine my heads as you've done BUT/AND get to use the type 4 cylinders & pistons on a type 1? (Probably might have to work with different conrods...well, I don't know the conrod lengths of either- it's just a thought that crossed my mind). Thanks.
Hey ,i am learning alot ,but i have a question..1641, mild port on stock heads, Engle 110 cam , 1.25 rockers. How can you check for valve cleanance and then determine compression short of assembly and then gauge it thru srark plug . Bobby
How do I clean the valves and the tops of the Pistons after I pull the heads? There are no scratches in the cylinders. Do i need to hone the cylinders? Should I replace the oil rings?
Hey man good video.I have a question tho. I'm building a motor and I'm making the tool to measure the combustion chamber on the heads and I'm building a1641 but I'd like to know what the outside diameter of the jugs are for a 92mm(1776/1835) and 94mm(1915) so I can figure out what size plexiglass discs to cut out. If you could measure the diameter of the Chambers on a couple of your heads that have been opened up I'd appreciate the info. Also in the video you were talking about making sure everything was flat and mentioned getting a piece of glass and some sandpaper but you didn't say how to use the glass. If you could let me know or maybe make a video explaining that process? Some other things that need videos is one really explain the process of setting your compression ratio, measuring deck height (preferably with an idea how to do that without having to buy a specialty tool), how to measure the cylinder head chamber and then the math to figure out your ratio and how to shim the jugs to adjust your ratio. There just isn't a good video for setting the compression ratio. Also you mentioned some spacers and shims. Do you recommend using a spacer/shim at the top of the cylinder where the jug meets the head? You mentioned the copper ones? What's your opinion on that? And while you're at it I'd like to hear/see your methods for setting end-play and your ideas on how to shim the distributor drive gear. Thanks again look forward to hearing from you.
A little grease on the top of the barrel(cylinder) makes it seal up alittle better. Also shims to change compression should always be at bottom, head will seal 100 percent iron to aluminum if oil or grease applied before torqueing.
i am building my first engine. Its a 2387 that was already in the car. My block is being line bored and i am installing all new parts except crank and rods. My crank is a 86c and my pistons are 94. is this a engine to use copper gaskets? My machiniest recommended a set of heads that he had for 800 bucks, and some new carbs, not sure either brands but i currently have weber 44's. any ideas or help will be appriciated
Ok..I tried to fit type 3 cylinder head to vw engine type 1 , but I notice that every time I adjust the valves clearance and run the engine for one our , the engine exposed to High temperature and the valve clearance are so closed and need to readjustment
So I've got a few questions. I am rebuilding a blown up 1600 dp. Valve number 3 failed and smashed the head and the piston. When I was able to remove the head it came off along with the cylinder. How can I get this off. Thanks
My mother had a 1971 Volkswagen with the 1600 dual port. She had this problem three times, and had to have a rebuilt motor installed. A fourth attempt was averted when her mechanic found the compression on the number 3 cylinder was low, and the cause was a burned valve. Her mechanic also said this problem was common on the 1600 dual port. He said to adjust your valves and change your oil every 3000 miles. She did that, and it did nothing to stop it. The motor also was tuned every 12,000 miles, and only Bosch parts were used. What she ended up doing was having a after market oil cooler installed to help cool down the motor. At the time these cars were popular and on the road everywhere that is what many people did to them to try and stop the valves from burning. With the 1600 dual port you have to keep your eyes on the compression, and pull the heads to change the valves if it gets low. Her mechanic also said any compression reading below 110 was a signal that you were about to need a valve job.
my '73 VW kept popping out a spark plug, so I took off the engine last year... and I thought it was an easy job to change the coil or change the engine heads. Now, I am stuck with rusted bolts that are not easy to remove. Question: How do I remove the heads? Do I really need to remove the muffler to gain access to remove the heads? is there any youtube link for "how to remove the engine head on VW"?
search at Amazon com for these following books haynes vw beetle manual How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen air-Cooled Engine Volkswagen Service Manual Beetle
+Afra Bangash Question: How do I remove the heads? ---Read the manuals Do I really need to remove the muffler to gain access to remove the heads? ---Yes, and the intake manifold as well is there any youtube link for "how to remove the engine head on VW"? --Not that I am aware of. If you want to remove the head, you might as well drop the engine and send both heads out to have them heli-coiled / timesert Also, if you have rusted exhaust bolts, be prepared for those to snap clean off when you go to try and remove them, You will then need to take those heads to a machine shop to have the bad studs removed and replaced. Also, tbh, if those two manuals don't help you much, I suggest you don't waste your time and frustration and drop the car off at a shop With the Haynes manual alone, I was able to drop my 67 Ghia engine out onto my skateboard when I was 16 and work on it. I snapped off two exhaust studs and found a ton of old leaves buried in between the cylinders. It was a great learning experience.
Thanks, that was my worry and frustrations. One bolt snapped on me and I was like "O! oh, what I do now?" Gotcha! thanks for your time in explaining to me. cant wait for summer now.
Thanks for the info. Freaked out when I just got my 1915 heads and the stud holes were drilled into the combustion chamber. Lol
I've had this question for so long! Thanks for the answer!!
Thanks for good advice. 1641cc, w110, 40x35 with match port manifolds, twin 44s,melling full flow with extended sump, msd coil & 6AL. experienced something similar now I know the cause and fix.
Even more amazing (to me) that it seals, given that the torque setting is only 18 - 20 pounds.
Regards,
Brad.
+1 for the lapping compound. Some old timers use baking soda instead.
I’m really damn glad I found this video because I’m putting together an 1835 right now, brand new to VW and I watched a JBugs video building a stroker and he used copper head shims. I put take the engine together last night and was like “shit I don’t have those.” I’m glad to find out they’re not necessary unless you’re doing it with purpose. So I cancelled my order. 🤣
Great video. I just took apart my 1970 enginge and put the paper gaskets because that's what the manual said to do. I guess I will have to go back and take them off now lol.
I put a paper gasket on, and the engine had a paper gasket before and had no problems
Interesting stuff. Just finished watching the 1600 assembly video and I was wondering the same thing about head gaskets.
I have just fitted my jugs, but a bit tight to fit to the engine case, so I used a piece of wood pine, across the top of the jugs and hammer them in, I hope that is fine and won't damage the seal.
Your videos have been a huge help to me. Thanks
Great video. Should there be any side to side movement when the head is set on the jug. I get about twenty thousands clearance.
I should have had my gf's 1970 Squareback engine rebuilt professionally. Even with the new jugs & pistons, rebuilt heads and all the care I took, the fuel injection never liked either one of my rebuild attempts. Glad I (was) driving an old Subaru that ran cooler & quieter and got 40+MPG too!
VERY informative video!!! THANX!!!
Same way on air-cooled aircraft engines and marine diesels with independent cylinder heads. Some will use a copper or steel sealing ring but nothing else.
I realize this is an old video posting, but I can't figure how to contact you. I watch all you videos, and wanted to see if this might reach you. I purchased a Mahle cylinder/piston kit (85.5) along with a set of Big Valve HP heads. The top shoulder of the cylinder has a length of approximately .0600. The seating surface inside the head is .0500. With this configuration I have about .047 deck clearance between the top of piston and upper cylinder lip. The chrome molly rods are 5.394 in length. With the heads torque down, I have a significant gap between the top fins of the cylinder and the base of the head. I’m not sure why this exists.
I have that too. I’d like the know the answer. Just put it together 10 minutes ago
No one could explain more detailed accurate VW specs and over all obviously countless years experience with these motors and different variations plain and simple enough for the average " Volkswagen turned me into a mechanic guy" better than you and the way you present it. I have gained quite a bit from your help. Appreciate it! I bought a totally restored 75 sb that burnt up when dual carbs were installed. I got it with a single carb but it has a ? cam it was fixed with large oil pump and flo through & exhaust. Is there a way to tell what size or displacement what have you, without removing the head? Thanks.
I can tell if it is a 1500 just by hearing it run. The 1500 has it's own distinctive sound. The 1600 dual port sounds like a tin can about to fall apart.
anychance u can go over all the engine mods that u would do if u were building a 2.3 drag engine with a as41 case
thanks just got my answer here about scheaming 1500 headers to recieve 1600 sleeves
Thank you you are a big help this motor is going into a airplane
best videos on vw thanks for posting them
Hi Very clear and helpful video thankyou, I have a Q - would you ever use a sealant between the case and the barrel? I'm building my engine for my 67 beetle. All the parts are in good condition.
Great video I have a question how do you determine which spark plug to use because you have the short I think it's a half inch and then you have the long three-quarter inch and I believe there are different threads 12mm 14mm which plug to use
Hey,
A question slightly different from the actual topic, can I machine my heads as you've done BUT/AND get to use the type 4 cylinders & pistons on a type 1? (Probably might have to work with different conrods...well, I don't know the conrod lengths of either- it's just a thought that crossed my mind). Thanks.
Hey ,i am learning alot ,but i have a question..1641, mild port on stock heads, Engle 110 cam , 1.25 rockers. How can you check for valve cleanance and then determine compression short of assembly and then gauge it thru srark plug . Bobby
Do I need to do copper on one cylinder I have one dual port head that has that lip and one that does not trying to run that set on my vw
How do I clean the valves and the tops of the Pistons after I pull the heads?
There are no scratches in the cylinders. Do i need to hone the cylinders?
Should I replace the oil rings?
Hey man good video.I have a question tho. I'm building a motor and I'm making the tool to measure the combustion chamber on the heads and I'm building a1641 but I'd like to know what the outside diameter of the jugs are for a 92mm(1776/1835) and 94mm(1915) so I can figure out what size plexiglass discs to cut out. If you could measure the diameter of the Chambers on a couple of your heads that have been opened up I'd appreciate the info. Also in the video you were talking about making sure everything was flat and mentioned getting a piece of glass and some sandpaper but you didn't say how to use the glass. If you could let me know or maybe make a video explaining that process? Some other things that need videos is one really explain the process of setting your compression ratio, measuring deck height (preferably with an idea how to do that without having to buy a specialty tool), how to measure the cylinder head chamber and then the math to figure out your ratio and how to shim the jugs to adjust your ratio. There just isn't a good video for setting the compression ratio. Also you mentioned some spacers and shims. Do you recommend using a spacer/shim at the top of the cylinder where the jug meets the head? You mentioned the copper ones? What's your opinion on that? And while you're at it I'd like to hear/see your methods for setting end-play and your ideas on how to shim the distributor drive gear. Thanks again look forward to hearing from you.
>>I'm building a motor
@@frankschwartz7405 hydraulic
Can those jugs be machined in a machine shop rather than sanding them with glass?
Great video! Alot of people would not know that...
A little grease on the top of the barrel(cylinder) makes it seal up alittle better. Also shims to change compression should always be at bottom, head will seal 100 percent iron to aluminum if oil or grease applied before torqueing.
is this really true?
No head gasket. It seals because of the expansion rate. As it gets hot, metal expands, in this case making an incredible seal.
Very helpful video
will a golf 1.4 AH cylinder head fit a golf 1.4 mk5 bca engine. 2005
i am building my first engine. Its a 2387 that was already in the car. My block is being line bored and i am installing all new parts except crank and rods. My crank is a 86c and my pistons are 94. is this a engine to use copper gaskets? My machiniest recommended a set of heads that he had for 800 bucks, and some new carbs, not sure either brands but i currently have weber 44's. any ideas or help will be appriciated
How can i determine what size of Piston Walls i need. I just bought a 69 Beetle with no piston walls.
Ok..I tried to fit type 3 cylinder head to vw engine type 1 , but I notice that every time I adjust the valves clearance and run the engine for one our , the engine exposed to High temperature and the valve clearance are so closed and need to readjustment
My 68 1500cc is leaking gas between the cylinder and the head. What's my next step?
Thanks, this video answered all my questions :D
I didn't know about the paper gasket at the bottom to the case, put the torque head to
20 foot pounds
So hopefully okay
If I go to a big boar kit how do I know that the compression is not to high?
Cool
Wish I'd known that about 35 years ago when I had my dune buggy.
thanks for the info! I always learn something from your vids!
wath is the torque for the heads on a 1600?
and i have a leak around the head stud on # 1 cylinder the one inside by the bottom stud
So I've got a few questions. I am rebuilding a blown up 1600 dp. Valve number 3 failed and smashed the head and the piston. When I was able to remove the head it came off along with the cylinder. How can I get this off. Thanks
My mother had a 1971 Volkswagen with the 1600 dual port. She had this problem three times, and had to have a rebuilt motor installed. A fourth attempt was averted when her mechanic found the compression on the number 3 cylinder was low, and the cause was a burned valve. Her mechanic also said this problem was common on the 1600 dual port. He said to adjust your valves and change your oil every 3000 miles. She did that, and it did nothing to stop it. The motor also was tuned every 12,000 miles, and only Bosch parts were used. What she ended up doing was having a after market oil cooler installed to help cool down the motor. At the time these cars were popular and on the road everywhere that is what many people did to them to try and stop the valves from burning. With the 1600 dual port you have to keep your eyes on the compression, and pull the heads to change the valves if it gets low. Her mechanic also said any compression reading below 110 was a signal that you were about to need a valve job.
Great vid.
What sealant do you use on the case side?
Frickin' great stuff Darrin.
Great info
my '73 VW kept popping out a spark plug, so I took off the engine last year... and I thought it was an easy job to change the coil or change the engine heads. Now, I am stuck with rusted bolts that are not easy to remove. Question: How do I remove the heads? Do I really need to remove the muffler to gain access to remove the heads?
is there any youtube link for "how to remove the engine head on VW"?
search at Amazon com for these following books
haynes vw beetle manual
How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen air-Cooled Engine
Volkswagen Service Manual Beetle
+bash555 Thanks, I have 2 of those books, does not help much
+Afra Bangash
Question: How do I remove the heads? ---Read the manuals
Do I really need to remove the muffler to gain access to remove the heads? ---Yes, and the intake manifold as well
is there any youtube link for "how to remove the engine head on VW"? --Not that I am aware of.
If you want to remove the head, you might as well drop the engine and send both heads out to have them heli-coiled / timesert
Also, if you have rusted exhaust bolts, be prepared for those to snap clean off when you go to try and remove them,
You will then need to take those heads to a machine shop to have the bad studs removed and replaced.
Also, tbh, if those two manuals don't help you much, I suggest you don't waste your time and frustration and drop the car off at a shop
With the Haynes manual alone, I was able to drop my 67 Ghia engine out onto my skateboard when I was 16 and work on it.
I snapped off two exhaust studs and found a ton of old leaves buried in between the cylinders.
It was a great learning experience.
Thanks, that was my worry and frustrations. One bolt snapped on me and I was like "O! oh, what I do now?" Gotcha! thanks for your time in explaining to me. cant wait for summer now.
Thanks for the vid
Thanks for the info.
You just beat me...
We. Would lap the cylinder in to the head with valve lapping compound.
Thanks for video
thank you for the info
sweet im the 1st veiwer
interesting
nice!
Focus a mocus. Good night buddy.
that's neat..
thanks
schuuuprint
this good job hi like