Evaluating Damaged Firebricks: The Paragon Kiln Maintenance Series
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- Опубліковано 25 тра 2011
- www.paragonweb.com Many types of firebrick damage are cosmetic only; they do not affect a kiln's firing results. In this video, we will help you evaluate firebrick damage to determine whether it should be repaired. The video was produced at the Paragon kiln factory in Mesquite, Texas USA. Narration and demonstration: John S. Hohenshelt; camera and editing: Arnold Howard
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My glass kiln is very old and this video has been incredibly useful, thanks so much for the inspiring tutorial!
This was an awesome detailed kiln wall inspection. Basically your fine unless a heating element is at risk. I was suprised at cracks and holes that are okay for firing. Thanks!
Wonderfully clear video. I watch a lot of DIY stuff and your series is superior to the vast majority. Thank you very much for the education. I recently bought a Duncan 820 at an estate sale and have chipped top bricks. I should be able to evaluate it now.
This is really useful and clear, thank you.
Refreshingly pragmatic approach, thanks
Great informative video. Helped me make the determination to replace or not to replace. Thanks!
Awesome video. Very Helpful
Thank you for sharing this video, it's exactly the information I was looking for........I have an old Ceramichrome kiln and a couple of pieces are breaking away from a side wall. Thanks to this I think I can get by for the time being!
Thank you for this very useful video!
Excellent information!
thank you for this video. i wondered if i had bought a lemon of a kiln with all my cracks. but looking at your samples, mine is in good shape.
Outstanding information
Thanks, we just bought a used kiln and the bottom base fell apart. I knew it would need to be replaced but was worried about the inside of the kiln. Based on your video, the interior will be fine.
thanks for this informative video
This was really helpful, thank you.
just bought a used paragon kiln off eBay, I appreciate these clear and helpful videos! Making sure it's in good shape before firing it for the first time :)
You’re welcome. Another pointer in buying a used kiln . . . check for clay debris in the element grooves. The debris is difficult to see without a flashlight.
@@arnoldhoward2076 will do!
thanks for sharing !
very good video, thanks!
Thank you for sharing such a detailed video I found it very helpfull.
Hi what type of cement do you use to initially cement the bricks together as I have had some that have gone along the joints. And what coating is used after I've replaced the bricks with new ones. As it's used for a glass annealing and slumping kiln.
Thanks so much!!!! So helpful!
Thank you. I have a small Duncan that works great. It is old.
Contacts please
I was just getting read to go out to the garage and apply kiln cement to all the cracks in my kiln. After reading this, I'm not so sure I need to.
I found a Duncan at the dump and now I'm worried about asbestos is this an unfounded fear?
Fucked er' up right in the base and this helped, thanks!
Would love to know what you think of a fiber lid with a crack, and pieces flaking off. I'm wondering if that is what's making my kiln misfire--a light layer of dust was on my pieces and shelves after. The elements and relays were new. Any thoughts?
How is your kiln misfiring other than the light layer of dust? You’re welcome to send photos of the damaged lid for me to evaluate. Arnoldhoward@gmail.com
High the entire bottom layer of my Kiln it's an old Vulcan Kil it's totally destroyed from someone melting glass in it. The bottom coil is actually stuck in lumps of glass around the edges and the fire brick or completely eaten away around 2 in around the diameter. I have to fix this I've always wanted a kiln I finally got one and I did not realize how bad the bottom was. It's got four layers double layer coil. and I simply put a shelf on the bottom and use the top three and get good results? I really want to do it right and I think that means taking the entire thing apart and replacing the bottom but I wanted to find out it's a totally necessary? I'm just starting out and I won't be firing huge amounts of stuff. The chilling itself is about 20in deep in 24 in wide
Where do I even get the correct fire brick
@@ParagonIndustries the bottom of the Kiln is totally destroyed it's melted deeply into the fire brick there's no fire brick left save but a small circle in the middle of about 1 foot diameter so there's a trough to inches deep sunk into where the fire brick used to be. my first thought was just to block that area off with a plantain turn off the bottom coil and only use the top three coils but that would be half-assing it.
I have started to take it apart and there was more damage and I even thought. The entire bottom will have to be replaced and about 6 I brick. I noticed that the brick that you carrier little bit different shape in the trough area then the original Vulcan.hopefully that's easy enough to alter by hand it's so soft I can't imagine it being that difficult.
Now I'm faced with one more decision Dua replace and repair the manual components such as the sitter components or do I convert the thing to digital. I would never buy a digital controller as I've seen how much they cost and I'd be better off buying a brand new unit. I do understand feedback loops however as I designed incubators for a biotech company years ago. I know that there are some high temperature pids that I could use to control either one continuous coil or used for pids to control the coils individually. I imagine alternatively I could control the input of current to the entire machine if I use a large enough relay that would be much cheaper.
Either way I only paid $100 for the kiln and it came with about 20 slip molds. Most of the slip molds are very interesting and something that I would actually use. My girlfriend is heavily into craft shows
I figured it'll cost between 3 and $400 to replace all the brick and build new coils which I will make myself on my lathe I've done it before for other applications. It appears to be 16 gauge kanthal wire. the only thing I can't seem to find is the resistance needed per element. I can't simply measure the old abused elements as the resistance would have changed over the years.
I've always promised myself that I would get back into sitting behind a wheel and being creative again and I don't have a lot longer left in my life. I have to make this happen if there's any advice you could give to me that'll help I'd appreciate it. I'll check out your prices I'm fire brick as soon as I can I want to thank you for the link
jeff
Thanks.... I'm less worried now. But a couple times you mentioned "sand and repair". Repair with what, or how? Is there another video on that aspect?
Cementing firebricks is an art form. You can sand them with a 3M sanding block and cement them with kiln cement, sold by kiln manufacturers. Practice on firebrick scraps. Test the bond by firing the scraps in a kiln.
thanks, i will stop worrying now.
Wow, it's amazing how people bash, smash and trash an expensive kiln as shown with some of the obvious mechanical damage!
The lid that was broken in multiple cracks was obviously dropped down- just careless handling.
I also can't get over how the one kiln had so much brick damage on the top row, again- just careless slip-shod handling and treatment.