Hey I just wanted to give a few tips to some people watching this video! I just want to save you a few steps, and a bit of time and so that you don't have to take the battery out too. There is plenty of room between the battery and the housing to remove all the cooling hoses as well as the housing. To remove the cam cover and actually rip the water pump out, it is actually a lot easier if you remove the airbox(filter box) and intake pipe. Yes there are 2, the airbox connects to the intake scoop at the front of the engine bay and completes the circuit on the turbo. The other intake pipe connects from the throttle body to the turbo. For the intake pipe from the throttle body, you only have to remove the airflow sensor(requires the same Torx bit as the others: T30) from the pipe directly above the cam cover, and then it has 2 plastic clips on either end of the pipe which you can lever aside with your fingers to remove the pipe(as usual with euro things don't push it too far as the tangs can be very brittle but they do not need to be moved very far for removal). The airbox itself is also very easy, once you disconnect the hose clamps the airbox just pops up towards you off its rubber grommets. Once you have removed the airbox and intake pipe from the top of the motor you will very easily be able to remove the plastic vacuum line out of your way without having to bend it too far, take out both T30's and remove the vacuum line just to be safe. Then you can remove the cam cover, take out the water pump housing and because you removed the intake pipes you will be able to see a little bit more of the crevasse behind the cam gear for any extra cleaning or repairs. There is nothing wrong with the procedure in this video, a lot of mechanic would do it that way but I just couldn't help but notice that the battery can stay, and removing the intake pipes will help anyone who is not confident in their ability to remove engine plastics without accidentally snapping something. Removing the intake and airbox will allow a lot of room for you to move the brittle pieces around without the risk of damaging them. Hope this helps!
Brilliant video and you are right it is the 1st one. I have an Audi A3 2014 1.4 with the same engine and a leaking pump. Your explanation and video was very helpful , thanks and keep up the good work.
Do you just put a torque wrench set to 13nm on it and just hold it and tension it place while you tighten the other torx bolts for the thermostat housing??? Or do you literally torque the allen key to 13nm
Just seen your video, I am about to replace mine on 2015 Golf. Yours is the only one on u-tube that deals with the TSi model. Extremely good and great tips.Great to see kids jumping over dad as well. Thanks again.
Great job man, thanks for the video. I’ve got a 2014 golf with the same engine so expecting it to fail any year now. Was the whole assembly expensive or not too bad ? Thanks 👍🏻
Hi amazing video, could you tell if its safe to drive with a failed magnetic clutch for magnetic charger, i need go replace the water pump, but i am away currently. Thank you!
I also have a question about the coolant. If the water-pump failed, or was leaking, likely the coolant is old enough to need changing too? Isn't it supposed to be flushed every 6 years or so? Is it just a matter of removing a lower coolant hose to the rad, and let the old coolant drain? Or is there a way to actually 'flush-out' the old coolant with water? How much undiluted coolant do you add before topping up with water? Where's the best place to add to make sure there's no air pockets in the cooling system?? I doubt the over-flow tank is the way to go, as coolant is only sucked back from there as the hot engine cools. You can't run a dry engine, as it will over-heat quickly.
That's the best way just undo the bottom rad hose. Fill it up with coolant and water all the way up to the top, put the cap back on leave it running untill up to temperature above 90 degrees when fan kicks in and thermostat opens turn car off wait for it to cool down a little then you will see that the coolant has dropped in the expansion Bottle re top up and your good to go.
Thanks, that was helpful. You did not show when you applied the sealant and how much is needed. My car has a funny boise frm the water pump it feels like the wheel needs replacement and the pump
Excellent video thank you. My golf takes ages for warm air to come out the air vents. Shall I do this replacement or is there something else I should try first?
Hi Raul, this video is very helpful but i need to know do you have to mark the timing as TDC or not for just doing the water pump assy and that water pump belt? Cheers mate
Gfreat video had mine replaced yesterday and was wondering why so dear, well now I know it is not a simple operation remember you could replace a holden water pump back in 64 in an hour , well done vw mechanics
Hi , Thanks a lot for the video. You earn a subscribe. My Audi A3 water pump housing is leaking, just wondering should I replace the whole housing or just a rubber seal? Its Audi A3 2015 1.4 CZEA engine, same as VW Golf 1.4.
Thanks for the video! I just need to replace the thermostats, how do you remove the external thermostat? Also, what is that lubricant you put on all the hoses near the end of the video?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. The lubricant is just a bit of oil. As for the thermostat you can buy it separately but I think you might need to take the full pump off to Replace it, I might be wrong
Raul awesome video, Just one question, how tight should the belt be after applying the torque? Should it have some slack and play or should it be super tight without any movement and play on the gear and the side?
My engine got 10.000km and i dont have any leak. Orginal pump on engine. I se in comment that many have leak. Shut i change the pump berore this disaster or can i drive on many km to go ?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. To be honest its really hard for me to say. But just leave the car running and heater on full blast and make sure its filled up with coolant. I think you have Air in the Core or one of your electric waterpumps are not working
@@TEAMR4ULTV thanks mate, and you! By the way this video helped me massively. Before I’d only attempted oil changes and basic servicing. This was my first time doing something a little more involved and it went great thanks to you. Cheers.
Thank you this help me a lot I took water pump off today 😄 just one question when putting new water pump on do you need to put on any seal around the edges or do you just put in on after you have cleaned it up?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. No dont put any sealant on the edge. Water Pump should have a rubber seal on it all the way round. Trust me silicone based sealant, no good for this job just clean the surface use the original rubber seal that comes with it.
Great video, really enjoyed that. Couple of questions: what was wrong with the existing pump, was it leaking? And why is the pump not beside the timing belt, I’m not a mechanic but always thought the water pump and timing belt were connected (which is why the water pump gets replaced at the same time as the timing belt)?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. I'll be honest I thought that same thing exactly. For some reason on the 1.4 it's on the other side. Also reason for Replacment was it was leaking and wasn't blowing hot air through the heater
@@TEAMR4ULTV many thanks. My Golf mk7 1.4tsi has the same problem. Mine will produce heat, but only if I give it revs, won't get enough heat through vents with engine idle. Did the new pump fix the problem?
Higher RPM means the cams also moves faster, and because the pump is cam driven, the pump flows more coolant throughout the car. The OEM pump has a plastic impeller which overtime degrades or cracks. Sometimes, you could loose an entire vane (plastic fin that flows the coolant) so the flow of coolant is lower than normal. Being That your cars heater relies on coolant flow, your most likely having early symptoms of a pump starting to fail. But like everything, double check to see if your problem isn't coming from a restriction, or something clogging the system. I personally do multiple coolant flushes when I do a pump anyways just to get a fresh flow.
Nice video with clear instructions 👍 Yesterday, I noticed on my Seat Leon 1.4 TSI CHPA engine, a small drop of coolant coming from the bottom of the housing and that falls on the gearbox. I tightened a little bit the bolts of the housing and will see if I have to replace the entire housing. Have a nice year, and wishing the best to you and your family.
@@MrAmansyed Have a look to the top of the gearbox, in case you observe coolant leak. In that case, it is either leaking from the water pump axle, or from the seal.
If it is same engine as this one then the waterpump is not run by the cam belt. If it's the chain driven then most likely its driven by the auxiliary belt. And if it like a CR engine its water pump is ran by the cam belt so to be honest I have to look at it then can tell you what what is.
Hey I just wanted to give a few tips to some people watching this video! I just want to save you a few steps, and a bit of time and so that you don't have to take the battery out too. There is plenty of room between the battery and the housing to remove all the cooling hoses as well as the housing. To remove the cam cover and actually rip the water pump out, it is actually a lot easier if you remove the airbox(filter box) and intake pipe. Yes there are 2, the airbox connects to the intake scoop at the front of the engine bay and completes the circuit on the turbo. The other intake pipe connects from the throttle body to the turbo. For the intake pipe from the throttle body, you only have to remove the airflow sensor(requires the same Torx bit as the others: T30) from the pipe directly above the cam cover, and then it has 2 plastic clips on either end of the pipe which you can lever aside with your fingers to remove the pipe(as usual with euro things don't push it too far as the tangs can be very brittle but they do not need to be moved very far for removal). The airbox itself is also very easy, once you disconnect the hose clamps the airbox just pops up towards you off its rubber grommets. Once you have removed the airbox and intake pipe from the top of the motor you will very easily be able to remove the plastic vacuum line out of your way without having to bend it too far, take out both T30's and remove the vacuum line just to be safe. Then you can remove the cam cover, take out the water pump housing and because you removed the intake pipes you will be able to see a little bit more of the crevasse behind the cam gear for any extra cleaning or repairs. There is nothing wrong with the procedure in this video, a lot of mechanic would do it that way but I just couldn't help but notice that the battery can stay, and removing the intake pipes will help anyone who is not confident in their ability to remove engine plastics without accidentally snapping something. Removing the intake and airbox will allow a lot of room for you to move the brittle pieces around without the risk of damaging them. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the tips mate. Thanks for watching really appreciate it.
Thanks for this. Is the noise coming frm there mean the wheel needs replacing bcos I replaced my waterpump abt a year and half ago
Brilliant video and you are right it is the 1st one. I have an Audi A3 2014 1.4 with the same engine and a leaking pump.
Your explanation and video was very helpful , thanks and keep up the good work.
The Allen key for the belt tensioning needs to be held at 13nm 👍
Do you just put a torque wrench set to 13nm on it and just hold it and tension it place while you tighten the other torx bolts for the thermostat housing??? Or do you literally torque the allen key to 13nm
It's 30 Nm, not 13.
Just seen your video, I am about to replace mine on 2015 Golf. Yours is the only one on u-tube that deals with the TSi model. Extremely good and great tips.Great to see kids jumping over dad as well. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Just used this to change the pump on a 2016 Skoda Yeti with the 1.4 TSI. Excellent instructions! Thank you.
Your welcome
Great job man, thanks for the video. I’ve got a 2014 golf with the same engine so expecting it to fail any year now. Was the whole assembly expensive or not too bad ? Thanks 👍🏻
Not the cheapest about £200
im not completely understand, so what i should for belt and Allen?
Put the belt on use the Allen to tension the water pump then tighten the pump up
Hi amazing video, could you tell if its safe to drive with a failed magnetic clutch for magnetic charger, i need go replace the water pump, but i am away currently. Thank you!
I've seen the manual say anti clock wise to tighten the hex water pump belt tensioner.
So who is rite anti clockwise or clockwise?
Or both?
Cuantos kilómetros tiene esa bomba y que se te estropeó por el G13 o lleva otro REFIGERATE Gran video
Thanks Raul!
Pretty sure those thermostat bolts are only 9NM. 25 seems excessive
Just do them hand tight. Thanks for watching really appreciate it
10 nm usually any plastic case attached to the engine block. I did not notice if there is any gasket or you have to put some engine gasket silicone?
thanks raul i,m doing my yeti 1.2 in the morning .great help.. nice family .
I also have a question about the coolant. If the water-pump failed, or was leaking, likely the coolant is old enough to need changing too? Isn't it supposed to be flushed every 6 years or so? Is it just a matter of removing a lower coolant hose to the rad, and let the old coolant drain? Or is there a way to actually 'flush-out' the old coolant with water? How much undiluted coolant do you add before topping up with water? Where's the best place to add to make sure there's no air pockets in the cooling system?? I doubt the over-flow tank is the way to go, as coolant is only sucked back from there as the hot engine cools. You can't run a dry engine, as it will over-heat quickly.
That's the best way just undo the bottom rad hose. Fill it up with coolant and water all the way up to the top, put the cap back on leave it running untill up to temperature above 90 degrees when fan kicks in and thermostat opens turn car off wait for it to cool down a little then you will see that the coolant has dropped in the expansion Bottle re top up and your good to go.
What size is the Allen to tigthening the belt? Also how Many NM? Thanks
Thanks, that was helpful. You did not show when you applied the sealant and how much is needed. My car has a funny boise frm the water pump it feels like the wheel needs replacement and the pump
Don't put any sealant on. Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Excellent video thank you. My golf takes ages for warm air to come out the air vents. Shall I do this replacement or is there something else I should try first?
I think you should try replacing the electric water pump or thermostat
Does the water pump need to come off to replace just the thermostat?
Hi Raul, this video is very helpful but i need to know do you have to mark the timing as TDC or not for just doing the water pump assy and that water pump belt?
Cheers mate
For water pump you dont need to mark it. But for cam belt you have to use the timing tool or mark it up
I like it, thank you :)
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Hi my heater doesn't blow hot no silica bag in the header tank to split open could a failed water pump be the problem mk 7 golf 101 000 miles
It could be or check the auxiliary water pump electric water pump
Great video mate.
Just a quick question, did you have any whining noise from the new pump at first?
No I didnt it was just leaking my pump
What the tool name, you using to tighten bolt?
Thank you very much for a very nice explanation.
Thanks for the video. Looks identical to my 2015 Touran CZDA. Which engine code is this? Just wondering for the part number.
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Sorry I dont really know the part number just gave the spare shop the reg and they gave me the parts
Gfreat video had mine replaced yesterday and was wondering why so dear, well now I know it is not a simple operation remember you could replace a holden water pump back in 64 in an hour , well done vw mechanics
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. I know right back in the day cars were so simple right.
So you don't need any special tool to replace this water pump or have to time up anything ? Just out and back in without a tool
Nope you dont need any special tool
Hi , Thanks a lot for the video. You earn a subscribe. My Audi A3 water pump housing is leaking, just wondering should I replace the whole housing or just a rubber seal? Its Audi A3 2015 1.4 CZEA engine, same as VW Golf 1.4.
Just replace the full water pump because you have to take the water pump off anyway
@@TEAMR4ULTV Thanks, ordered the whole assembly.
Very helpful video! Thank you very much!
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Mulțumesc pentru ajutor, foarte util video .👏👏👏
Thanks for the video! I just need to replace the thermostats, how do you remove the external thermostat? Also, what is that lubricant you put on all the hoses near the end of the video?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. The lubricant is just a bit of oil. As for the thermostat you can buy it separately but I think you might need to take the full pump off to Replace it, I might be wrong
Job well done . Like it
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. Please don't forget to like Share and subscribe
Raul awesome video,
Just one question, how tight should the belt be after applying the torque? Should it have some slack and play or should it be super tight without any movement and play on the gear and the side?
You dont want it too tight you have to really go off experience and feel but not too tight
My engine got 10.000km and i dont have any leak. Orginal pump on engine. I se in comment that many have leak. Shut i change the pump berore this disaster or can i drive on many km to go ?
If it's not broke dont fix it my advice.
@@TEAMR4ULTV now i have a leak :(
@@jockesgarage6049 For some reason reading that made me laugh out loud
Explained well and easy to understand
Freakin Awesome Bro.. Saved me a lot of stress. Cheers John
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Fantastic job
Hey mate, I followed these instructions to the letter but now my heater core isn’t getting hot. Any advice? Golf MK7 2014 1.2tsi
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. To be honest its really hard for me to say. But just leave the car running and heater on full blast and make sure its filled up with coolant. I think you have Air in the Core or one of your electric waterpumps are not working
@@TEAMR4ULTV thanks! It just needed to sit overnight and then the next day I topped up whilst running the heater and everything was fine :)
@@beauchampy That's Great news, anyway thanks for watching (Happy Father's)
@@TEAMR4ULTV thanks mate, and you! By the way this video helped me massively. Before I’d only attempted oil changes and basic servicing. This was my first time doing something a little more involved and it went great thanks to you. Cheers.
merci beaucoup cette vidéo m'a énormément aidé à changer ma pompe à eau !! merci
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Hi, great video mate, did you drain coolant first and or is it necessary to drain?
To be honest I didn't drain it what ever came out came out
Thank you this help me a lot I took water pump off today 😄 just one question when putting new water pump on do you need to put on any seal around the edges or do you just put in on after you have cleaned it up?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. No dont put any sealant on the edge. Water Pump should have a rubber seal on it all the way round. Trust me silicone based sealant, no good for this job just clean the surface use the original rubber seal that comes with it.
@@TEAMR4ULTV ok thank you
Well done R4ul
Thanks for the videoo. Love from Malaysiaa
Thanks for watching really appreciate it please don't forget to like Share and subscribe.
Great video, really enjoyed that. Couple of questions: what was wrong with the existing pump, was it leaking? And why is the pump not beside the timing belt, I’m not a mechanic but always thought the water pump and timing belt were connected (which is why the water pump gets replaced at the same time as the timing belt)?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. I'll be honest I thought that same thing exactly. For some reason on the 1.4 it's on the other side. Also reason for Replacment was it was leaking and wasn't blowing hot air through the heater
@@TEAMR4ULTV many thanks. My Golf mk7 1.4tsi has the same problem. Mine will produce heat, but only if I give it revs, won't get enough heat through vents with engine idle. Did the new pump fix the problem?
Higher RPM means the cams also moves faster, and because the pump is cam driven, the pump flows more coolant throughout the car. The OEM pump has a plastic impeller which overtime degrades or cracks. Sometimes, you could loose an entire vane (plastic fin that flows the coolant) so the flow of coolant is lower than normal. Being That your cars heater relies on coolant flow, your most likely having early symptoms of a pump starting to fail. But like everything, double check to see if your problem isn't coming from a restriction, or something clogging the system. I personally do multiple coolant flushes when I do a pump anyways just to get a fresh flow.
Génial ta vidéo un grand merci pour le partage 👍👌
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Thank you very much. It is a very nice video.
Your welcome thanks for watching really appreciate it
Thanks for the video, how long does this job take roughly?
About 2hrs
Do u need sealant or just rubber gasket
Just use the Rubber gasket
Do you have to bleed the coolant system ?
Not really it should circulate and bleed automatically
,👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Subscribed, very good video
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Nice video with clear instructions 👍
Yesterday, I noticed on my Seat Leon 1.4 TSI CHPA engine, a small drop of coolant coming from the bottom of the housing and that falls on the gearbox.
I tightened a little bit the bolts of the housing and will see if I have to replace the entire housing.
Have a nice year, and wishing the best to you and your family.
Did it work?
@@MrAmansyed Hi, No it didn't work. Now, I've got the new pump and will install it next week.
@@AH-nw8qg my coolant level is dropping . I suspect it’s the water pump
@@MrAmansyed Have a look to the top of the gearbox, in case you observe coolant leak.
In that case, it is either leaking from the water pump axle, or from the seal.
Dan yoi replace just teh gasket? How much does the entire unit cost?
You Good 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽😭
👍
top video !!
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Good job man
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. Please don't forget to like Share and subscribe. 👍
Merhaba. İşlem sadece bu kadar degil mi?
Ayrıca soğutma suyunu tamamen değiştiriyor muyuz?
I dont know what you are saying but anyway thanks for watching really appreciate it
a garage told me waterpumps on cambelt is that wrong my cars a 15 plate sirroco 1.4 seems to be presurising and temp gauge goes sky high
Am not 100% sure but aren't the 1.4 tsi chai driven engines
thought you were mechanic
If it is same engine as this one then the waterpump is not run by the cam belt. If it's the chain driven then most likely its driven by the auxiliary belt. And if it like a CR engine its water pump is ran by the cam belt so to be honest I have to look at it then can tell you what what is.
@@TEAMR4ULTV its 1.4 tsi 2015 vw sirroco uk model
@@TEAMR4ULTV this is reg ej65rvr engine is bluemotion tech tsi