Thank you! Oh my gosh thank you. So after having our water feature installed by CCAC in November here in Canada, we had a massive algae bloom in the spring. In a few weeks, it cleared up. But we were left with stones that looked so "dirty" (much dirtier than the pond you showed) and I was upset. Especially after watching years of videos and seeing videos of nice clean features. We did our own Spring cleaning, which took three days and I did mess up with the chemicals a bit for the first month. So I was pretty ticked at myself. But after the cleaning, we had a week of rains that also caused a bit of dirt to run into the pond. I wondered if what I was seeing, was simply run off from the rains. This has made me feel so much better. I'm sure next year things will look better.
@@Tusseylandscaping i want to build a bog filter for my 20 * 15 ft and 4.5 ft deep rec pond but i dont have very much space..can i half the size of the bog filter from 8*10 to 4*5 ft and still get the same result?
Cool! Great info! My pond is 800ish gallons, but my biofilm is more like the big pond because it’s loaded with aquatic plants wherever I could stick them! What zone are you in?
Great Video!, Very informative. I have a smaller pond, well 2 actually with a river connecting them. (Approx. 2500 gallons) & the rocks(gravel) in my river look just as you described. plus the debris lands on the rocks in the river. easily removed with a little high pressure water. I'm now a New Subscriber. thnx Fella's. Hoss, Ontario Canada
Hey Weston, top work as always. Keep them videos coming, so much talent! Could you give an estimate up until which size a biofalls with plants and not too many fish in the pond makes sense and when to go for the wetland? I mean volume wise as well as water level related. I'm not sure if a pond with 15 x 15 feet, 3000 gallons and water levels between 8 and 45 inches works with biofalls and skimmer. Is the water level relevant when you have just a skimmer taking the water from the surface?
Hey Bernd, thanks for the props! 😎👍 So in the pond you described, I would definitely choose a wetland over a bio falls. The depth doesn't matter when making that choice as much as the size and volume of the pond. Any time we go over 11x16' we start investigating the possibility of incorporating a wetland. Hope that helps, if I just created more questions for you, just comment again.
@@Tusseylandscaping Thank you for the answer Weston. Can you tell me in which situations you go for a skimmer and wetland filter combo and in which you go for a pump wet well application and wetland combo instead? How do I calculate the amount of aquablocks needed?
For a 15x15 pond, I'd do a 8'x10' bog with one snorkel and one centipede, I'd use 12 small Aquablox, and then 3 layers of river rock above the aquablox. After your centipede and aquablox are installed on the bottom; layer rock on top of the aquablox with an 8" layer of 3-6" rock, then another 8" layer of 2-3" rock, and an 8" layer of 3/4" rock. All rounded river rock, you dont want to use crushed or jagged rock. So until you have 3 layers of rock and the small aquablox, you are 33"ish deep, plus the centipede would be dug in below the bottom of your 33" deep bog excavation.
@@Tusseylandscaping Thanks for your patience Weston, one last follow up: Maybe I'm getting something wrong, but to my calculations 12 small aquablox (each 26.5"x 16") equals in 79.5" x 64" or 6.6' x 5.3'. The snorkel adds another 1.2' so we would be at 6.6' x 6.5' for the pog instead of 8' x 10'. Do I fill the rest with gravel? Since Aquascape's local reseller in Germany sadly only delivers AquaBlox and the Pondless Waterfall Vault but not the centipede and snorkel, can I use the Pondless Waterfall Vault instead, widen its holes and leave the excavation for the centipede empty (aquablocks on top) maybe with a little slope for the mud to flow into the Vault? I know not the intention of a "pondless" waterfall vault. :/
@@berndschuster8786 No prob :) So you are right. I shouldve clarified. We usually overdig our bog excavation so that we arent trying to cram a rigid square block down into a hole that barely fits. Much easier to overdig some, have room to posiiton all your blocks and components, and then back fill outside the liner around the aquablacks. Once you've back filled to the top of the aquablocks, just let the liner rest on your excavation and start layering in your gravel. And yes you can use a pondless vault in a pinch :) I would suggest getting a 10" plastic rigid pipe maybe 6-8' long (Cut it to length to fit the full length of your excavation once you are fitting it into your bog hole), and then cutting a whole bunch of holes into it, essentially perforating it and recreating the centipede you cant get. Then cut a hole in the vault large enough for that pipe to slide into your pondless vault a few inches. And you've successfully recreated the snorkel and centipede system. ANother note, you want the bottom of your vault and your entire centipede to be *underneath* your aquablocks. So after you dug a square hole for you aquablocks, you will want to dig a trench right down the middle of that hole to fit your vault and centipede under the aquablocks. Make sure the trench is wide enough to install some 4"-6" cobble stone around the centepide, so the liner isnt smack up against the vertical side of your centipede pipe. If you email me @ weston@tusseylandscaping.com I'll see if I can get a few pics for reference
So I assume if you have a smaller pond you can achieve similar results to the larger body of water by installing a bog filter like the nelsons water garden one correct?
That's kind of subjective. Basically it's just a rule that the largera body of water is, the more stable it is. But I'd say i can see a consistent trend of ponds that are larger than 2,000 gal are very easy to take care of
Was this pond built with a bottom drain to flush the system? If so, does it flush ok with the rocks in the bottom? I was told it's better to have no rocks in the bottom, but this looks amazing!
Hey Kelly, no no bottom drain. What you heard is a common narrative in the koi pond world. We choose not to do bottom drains as: it's not necessary, could easily leak, and koi thrive in these ponds, without a bottom drain. I'll probably get some flack for saying that. There's always someone with a hot opinion that what I just said is wrong.
@@Tusseylandscaping I think the folks with the hot opinions about this are trying to grow as many pounds of show quality koi in as small of a space as they can get away with and have often invested many thousands of dollars into their fish collection. With a mindset like that and those goals, you absolutely need a bottom drain and a bare liner. The rest of us just want a few neat fish to look at.
Hi love your vids what about the wetland filters, should you put plants in them or not. I hear different stories about this, one says plants are really necessary to remove all waste materials, others say that the filter bed is closing up because of the roots. and that more rot occurs through the roots. what is your opinion? I want to apply a wetland for a koi pond, and it seems ideal to me to make a platform floating above the filter, but then I cannot place plants in the filter.
Building my first large "swim pond". Built many average size koi ponds. All Aqauscapes. This Swim pond will by approx 18x22 at average depth 3 feet. Can you provide what you would recommend. Wetlands vs Grande skimmer? I know I'm doing an intake bay instead of skimmer. Also I have limited space as the customer is adding a screen enclosure that again will limit space. It will also limit my stream if any. Probably going to have to build just falls off Wetlands or biofalls. Again any advice would be appreciated. Oh one more thing If I do or you do recommended wetlands how do you calculate how do you know how many aquabloxs Are needed free pond this size. I know I'm gonna need about 3 centipedes and a snorkel, I have no clue how many aqua blocks and again limited space.
Hello tussey , congrats on your wonderful videos. I have a question that never gets discussed. How do we calculate the correct amount of water that should travel through a bog filter per hour? I am planning to build my pond with a surface area of about 600 sqft and depth of around 6 feet. I want to have a very large bog of about the same size of the pond approx 500sqft. I will have about 5-10 koi fish. Also the bottom of the pond will have gravel and water will pumped through the gravel up flow. I would like to know how how much water per hour I should pump through the pond and how much through the up flow system on bottom of the pond. I never found anybody that discussed this topic....glad to hear your input.
Hey there, I double checked with Ed Beaulieu, the Pond Proffesor. Official calcs: Minimum flow is 100 GPH/Aquablock 1 Aquablock = 3 sq.ft. 16 Aquablox used for 1 Centipede
If small ponds with the typical Biofalls are more tedious to maintain, is it possible for a commercial installation of a mini-Wetland Bog Filter for it instead?
No, small ponds with best with a bio filter. The smallest pond I would consider doing a bog or wetland on is 11'x16'. Otherwise it's just not worth it. A bio filter is actually easier to maintain in the long run. A bog or wetland , if not built correctly, can be a pain to maintain. If built correctly their perfectly fine and create stellar results with water quality
Hi excellent video. I have a question.? I am in the process of enlarging my fish pond. The new addition will be 18 x 23 feet. The deepest section is 4 1/2 feet. The rest of the pond is about 2 1/2 feet. I dug an area outside of the pond for a wetland filter. 12 feet length x 3 1/2 feet wide by 3 feet deep. There will be a centipede with aqua blocks on top with different size gravel. 8" of 3" - 6", 8" of 2"- 3" and 8" of 3/4" - 1 1/2" river rock. The water intake will be coming from the ponds intake bay. The existing pond that the new addition will be merged with I had for 25 years the size of that pond is 28 x 7 deepest part is 3 feet. I have filtration in that part of the pond with 2 bio water falls and skimmers and another bio filter. My question is the size of my wetland filter. Is this size sufficient for the new addition only? I could try to make it bigger but the space is limited due to a deck and cesspool near by. I read that wetland areas should be 10-20% of the ponds surface area than I read 20-30%. I am confused with all of this. I could try to make the pond area smaller and add it to the wetland. I would like your expert take on this because I know you know your stuff. Thanks
Yeah I would try to get the wetland to be as close to 20% of the pond surface as possible. A 10x12 wetland would be much better suited for a pond that size
@@Tusseylandscaping Hi Tussey Thanks for your reply. Since my last post I was able to enlarge the wetland filter from 3 1/2 x 12 to now 7 x 12. I was able to go closer to the deck and made the pond size smaller. The pond width was 18 feet I cut that back to 14 feet and was able to make it larger. The final size of the wetland filter now is 7 x 12.
I've got a quick question. I live in northern Indiana. I thinking of doing a bog filter for my pond. What's the best kind of plant to use that can withstand the cold winter? Any help would be great. Also my pond is roughly 8x18 36 inches deep. Is a bog necessary?
Hey Ryan, a bog would certainly provide stability in water quality. As for plants, any marginal aquatic plant will do what you want. Water irises, mini cattails, etc.
Do you empty the water of the wetland filter before winter? I would think that freezing water could push the stones in the filter and harm the liner. What about the plumbing?
No we do not empty them. They are usually 4' deep, so only the top foot or so will freeze, and we've never experienced it pushing our rocks aeound and making holes in the liner. The plumbing is flexible PVC, so it can withstand a freeze as well.
Love the video! I have a question regarding the bog during winter... can I turn off the bog pump during the cold winter months or is it better to let it run?
Entertaining video but title was misleading. I was actually interested in how a Biofalls would perform vs. a bog but the guy actually just talked about the relative size of the PONDS and the fact that the larger pond had a huge bog, not about the attributes of the two different methods of filtration, relative effectiveness of each method, and how hard each was to clean and maintain, etc. Not very informative in that regard.
Sorry, i could've made that clearer. Basically what i was trying to say because of the massive amount of space for the biological filtration to take place, you have more consistent stable results with a bog, as opposed to a bio falls. Bio falls works, but the rule of thumb is the bigger the better, and a bog is bigger, so better.
Unfortunately one cannot gauge WATER QUALITY by viewing or comparing via clear cup unless of course it's DRASTICALLY different in appearance. WATER CLARITY however yes.
Good on you bro for mentioning this to others and explaining the difference between large and small water features. 😉😊 It might be worth doing a video perhaps on ponds loaded with marginals Vs one with a light plantation of marginals. There are many factors involved with living bodies of water that's worth mentioning. But keeping it basic, you can't go wrong
You are right, a lot of factors come in to play, and marginal plants is a big one. I left that out on this video, but for anyone reading this, there is an array of factors that can play into this. Plants matter a lot, especially marginals. We recommend having 40-60% of your shoreline covered in marginal plants
why go larger for the smaller pond can't i just add a larger bio filtration and exchange the water more often to stabilize the system and have less build up on the rocks
Um, isn't the smaller pond older, thus had more time for biofilm and algae to develop on the rocks. I often see people showing off brand new ponds with nice clean rocks but often those same pond rocks will be covered in a thick layer of biofilm in just a few years. However, it really depends on the amount of nutrients in the water.
@@Tusseylandscaping For starters the filter (bio-falls),is only a biological filter. You need mechanical filtration to remove the particles from the water, this will clear up the mess settling out over the rocks. Before you say this is bio film, its not! bio film is exactly what it says it is a thin film that coats everything in the pond not a thick sludge. All this sludge is a breading ground for bad bacteria and will explain why the water parameters are not stable in the small pond. Correct filtration in the small pond will rectify the problems.
Agree with your comment entirely. However, we do have mechanical filtration installed on both the ponds in the video, they both have nearly identical skimmer boxes with mechanical filtration
@@Tusseylandscaping I would be inclined to add a pump to add some circulation to the water to keep the particles suspended so the filter can remove them. I know this means extra cleaning, but create a more stable environment. By the way both ponds are great looking.
Thank you! Oh my gosh thank you. So after having our water feature installed by CCAC in November here in Canada, we had a massive algae bloom in the spring. In a few weeks, it cleared up. But we were left with stones that looked so "dirty" (much dirtier than the pond you showed) and I was upset. Especially after watching years of videos and seeing videos of nice clean features. We did our own Spring cleaning, which took three days and I did mess up with the chemicals a bit for the first month. So I was pretty ticked at myself. But after the cleaning, we had a week of rains that also caused a bit of dirt to run into the pond. I wondered if what I was seeing, was simply run off from the rains. This has made me feel so much better. I'm sure next year things will look better.
Had to subscribe, the sound of water coming from the larger pond...perfect!
Welcome to the Tussey crew! 😜😊
Great video and explanation of the differences in filtration methods.
Thanks Pondscapes Az!
Great video. I just put in a pond myself. I bought a pond kit with bio falls but also added a small bog. Hopefully together my water will be stable.
With a bog, you should be golden!
Very interesting video, thank you. Love the large pond, great job also on landscaping!
Thanks again! 😊
Great video. Really shows the difference in the nutrient consumption
Yeah it's fascinating
Very informative. Simple and clear. Learned a lot, again.
Thanks
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for a terrific needed to know video!
You bet!
Great video and awesome comparisons. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks! 👍
Very informative and love your video production skills!
Thanks a lot Good Earth!
The camera shot from underwater going up the fall was sick
:)
Just added a bog filter to my pond that had a bio water fall system and it cleared up to the point I thought all the water drained
Thats the power of a bog!
Love watching these kinds of video's, just wish northern Delaware had a CAC. subbed
Thanks for the sub! Here to help however we can 👍
@@Tusseylandscaping i want to build a bog filter for my 20 * 15 ft and 4.5 ft deep rec pond but i dont have very much space..can i half the size of the bog filter from 8*10 to 4*5 ft and still get the same result?
Cool! Great info! My pond is 800ish gallons, but my biofilm is more like the big pond because it’s loaded with aquatic plants wherever I could stick them! What zone are you in?
That's the way to do it! We are in zone 5
Great Video!, Very informative.
I have a smaller pond, well 2 actually with a river connecting them. (Approx. 2500 gallons) & the rocks(gravel) in my river look just as you described. plus the debris lands on the rocks in the river. easily removed with a little high pressure water.
I'm now a New Subscriber.
thnx Fella's.
Hoss, Ontario Canada
Awesome! Thanks so much for joining us! :)
OMG. Looks so natural it's fantastic,,,,,
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey Weston, top work as always. Keep them videos coming, so much talent!
Could you give an estimate up until which size a biofalls with plants and not too many fish in the pond makes sense and when to go for the wetland?
I mean volume wise as well as water level related.
I'm not sure if a pond with 15 x 15 feet, 3000 gallons and water levels between 8 and 45 inches works with biofalls and skimmer. Is the water level relevant when you have just a skimmer taking the water from the surface?
Hey Bernd, thanks for the props! 😎👍 So in the pond you described, I would definitely choose a wetland over a bio falls. The depth doesn't matter when making that choice as much as the size and volume of the pond. Any time we go over 11x16' we start investigating the possibility of incorporating a wetland. Hope that helps, if I just created more questions for you, just comment again.
@@Tusseylandscaping Thank you for the answer Weston. Can you tell me in which situations you go for a skimmer and wetland filter combo and in which you go for a pump wet well application and wetland combo instead? How do I calculate the amount of aquablocks needed?
For a 15x15 pond, I'd do a 8'x10' bog with one snorkel and one centipede, I'd use 12 small Aquablox, and then 3 layers of river rock above the aquablox. After your centipede and aquablox are installed on the bottom; layer rock on top of the aquablox with an 8" layer of 3-6" rock, then another 8" layer of 2-3" rock, and an 8" layer of 3/4" rock. All rounded river rock, you dont want to use crushed or jagged rock. So until you have 3 layers of rock and the small aquablox, you are 33"ish deep, plus the centipede would be dug in below the bottom of your 33" deep bog excavation.
@@Tusseylandscaping Thanks for your patience Weston, one last follow up:
Maybe I'm getting something wrong, but to my calculations 12 small aquablox (each 26.5"x 16") equals in 79.5" x 64" or 6.6' x 5.3'. The snorkel adds another 1.2' so we would be at 6.6' x 6.5' for the pog instead of 8' x 10'. Do I fill the rest with gravel?
Since Aquascape's local reseller in Germany sadly only delivers AquaBlox and the Pondless Waterfall Vault but not the centipede and snorkel, can I use the Pondless Waterfall Vault instead, widen its holes and leave the excavation for the centipede empty (aquablocks on top) maybe with a little slope for the mud to flow into the Vault? I know not the intention of a "pondless" waterfall vault. :/
@@berndschuster8786 No prob :)
So you are right. I shouldve clarified. We usually overdig our bog excavation so that we arent trying to cram a rigid square block down into a hole that barely fits. Much easier to overdig some, have room to posiiton all your blocks and components, and then back fill outside the liner around the aquablacks. Once you've back filled to the top of the aquablocks, just let the liner rest on your excavation and start layering in your gravel.
And yes you can use a pondless vault in a pinch :) I would suggest getting a 10" plastic rigid pipe maybe 6-8' long (Cut it to length to fit the full length of your excavation once you are fitting it into your bog hole), and then cutting a whole bunch of holes into it, essentially perforating it and recreating the centipede you cant get. Then cut a hole in the vault large enough for that pipe to slide into your pondless vault a few inches. And you've successfully recreated the snorkel and centipede system.
ANother note, you want the bottom of your vault and your entire centipede to be *underneath* your aquablocks. So after you dug a square hole for you aquablocks, you will want to dig a trench right down the middle of that hole to fit your vault and centipede under the aquablocks. Make sure the trench is wide enough to install some 4"-6" cobble stone around the centepide, so the liner isnt smack up against the vertical side of your centipede pipe. If you email me @ weston@tusseylandscaping.com I'll see if I can get a few pics for reference
So I assume if you have a smaller pond you can achieve similar results to the larger body of water by installing a bog filter like the nelsons water garden one correct?
It definitely helps, but smaller bodies of water are always less stable
@@Tusseylandscaping how many gallons would you consider “smaller”. Ty
That's kind of subjective. Basically it's just a rule that the largera body of water is, the more stable it is. But I'd say i can see a consistent trend of ponds that are larger than 2,000 gal are very easy to take care of
So is it the size of the ponds or the fact that the larger body has the wetland filter and the smaller pond has the BIOFALLS?
Do you have a video on a wetland filter type pond? I researched and dont really know the ins and outs of this type.
Yep, right here is a pond with wetland filtrations: ua-cam.com/video/QoL5Vob3HpE/v-deo.html
Was this pond built with a bottom drain to flush the system? If so, does it flush ok with the rocks in the bottom? I was told it's better to have no rocks in the bottom, but this looks amazing!
And does the filtration system get shut off for winter?
Hey Kelly, no no bottom drain. What you heard is a common narrative in the koi pond world. We choose not to do bottom drains as: it's not necessary, could easily leak, and koi thrive in these ponds, without a bottom drain. I'll probably get some flack for saying that. There's always someone with a hot opinion that what I just said is wrong.
@@Tusseylandscaping I think the folks with the hot opinions about this are trying to grow as many pounds of show quality koi in as small of a space as they can get away with and have often invested many thousands of dollars into their fish collection. With a mindset like that and those goals, you absolutely need a bottom drain and a bare liner. The rest of us just want a few neat fish to look at.
The 2 ponds have the exact age,4 years ? Or the large one is build after ? Great job!
The large one was 4 years, the small one was 5
Whats a rough estimate on price on the small pond
Hi love your vids
what about the wetland filters, should you put plants in them or not.
I hear different stories about this, one says plants are really necessary to remove all waste materials, others say that the filter bed is closing up because of the roots. and that more rot occurs through the roots.
what is your opinion?
I want to apply a wetland for a koi pond, and it seems ideal to me to make a platform floating above the filter, but then I cannot place plants in the filter.
Building my first large "swim pond". Built many average size koi ponds. All Aqauscapes. This Swim pond will by approx 18x22 at average depth 3 feet. Can you provide what you would recommend. Wetlands vs Grande skimmer? I know I'm doing an intake bay instead of skimmer. Also I have limited space as the customer is adding a screen enclosure that again will limit space. It will also limit my stream if any. Probably going to have to build just falls off Wetlands or biofalls. Again any advice would be appreciated. Oh one more thing If I do or you do recommended wetlands how do you calculate how do you know how many aquabloxs Are needed free pond this size. I know I'm gonna need about 3 centipedes and a snorkel, I have no clue how many aqua blocks and again limited space.
Aquascape University has excellent technical details on sizing wetlands, etc. I would always do wetlands over a biofalls for larger ponds
Hello tussey , congrats on your wonderful videos. I have a question that never gets discussed. How do we calculate the correct amount of water that should travel through a bog filter per hour? I am planning to build my pond with a surface area of about 600 sqft and depth of around 6 feet. I want to have a very large bog of about the same size of the pond approx 500sqft. I will have about 5-10 koi fish. Also the bottom of the pond will have gravel and water will pumped through the gravel up flow. I would like to know how how much water per hour I should pump through the pond and how much through the up flow system on bottom of the pond. I never found anybody that discussed this topic....glad to hear your input.
Hey there, I double checked with Ed Beaulieu, the Pond Proffesor. Official calcs: Minimum flow is
100 GPH/Aquablock
1 Aquablock = 3 sq.ft.
16 Aquablox used for 1 Centipede
love the ponds, I wish I could have a small 1 where I am but I'm surrounded by trees I can't get dropped
We can do ponds in areas with trees no prob!
If small ponds with the typical Biofalls are more tedious to maintain, is it possible for a commercial installation of a mini-Wetland Bog Filter for it instead?
No, small ponds with best with a bio filter. The smallest pond I would consider doing a bog or wetland on is 11'x16'. Otherwise it's just not worth it. A bio filter is actually easier to maintain in the long run. A bog or wetland , if not built correctly, can be a pain to maintain. If built correctly their perfectly fine and create stellar results with water quality
Hi excellent video. I have a question.? I am in the process of enlarging my fish pond. The new addition will be 18 x 23 feet. The deepest section is 4 1/2 feet. The rest of the pond is about 2 1/2 feet. I dug an area outside of the pond for a wetland filter. 12 feet length x 3 1/2 feet wide by 3 feet deep. There will be a centipede with aqua blocks on top with different size gravel. 8" of 3" - 6", 8" of 2"- 3" and 8" of 3/4" - 1 1/2" river rock. The water intake will be coming from the ponds intake bay. The existing pond that the new addition will be merged with I had for 25 years the size of that pond is 28 x 7 deepest part is 3 feet. I have filtration in that part of the pond with 2 bio water falls and skimmers and another bio filter. My question is the size of my wetland filter. Is this size sufficient for the new addition only? I could try to make it bigger but the space is limited due to a deck and cesspool near by. I read that wetland areas should be 10-20% of the ponds surface area than I read 20-30%. I am confused with all of this. I could try to make the pond area smaller and add it to the wetland. I would like your expert take on this because I know you know your stuff. Thanks
Yeah I would try to get the wetland to be as close to 20% of the pond surface as possible. A 10x12 wetland would be much better suited for a pond that size
@@Tusseylandscaping Hi Tussey Thanks for your reply. Since my last post I was able to enlarge the wetland filter from 3 1/2 x 12 to now 7 x 12. I was able to go closer to the deck and made the pond size smaller. The pond width was 18 feet I cut that back to 14 feet and was able to make it larger. The final size of the wetland filter now is 7 x 12.
I've got a quick question. I live in northern Indiana. I thinking of doing a bog filter for my pond. What's the best kind of plant to use that can withstand the cold winter? Any help would be great. Also my pond is roughly 8x18 36 inches deep. Is a bog necessary?
Hey Ryan, a bog would certainly provide stability in water quality. As for plants, any marginal aquatic plant will do what you want. Water irises, mini cattails, etc.
Wait, a wetland filter and bog filter is the same thing? I thought they were two different filter setups
Do you empty the water of the wetland filter before winter? I would think that freezing water could push the stones in the filter and harm the liner. What about the plumbing?
No we do not empty them. They are usually 4' deep, so only the top foot or so will freeze, and we've never experienced it pushing our rocks aeound and making holes in the liner. The plumbing is flexible PVC, so it can withstand a freeze as well.
Great video, very clear and informative, thank you. what pump flow is required for an 11'x16' pond with a Wetland Bog Filtration?
Thanks! Glad it helped 😊 I would go for a pump that pushes around 4-8 thousand gallons per hour
Love the video! I have a question regarding the bog during winter... can I turn off the bog pump during the cold winter months or is it better to let it run?
You can certainly turn it off. Most of our customers opt to turn theirs off
Can’t beat nature!
you know it!
Entertaining video but title was misleading. I was actually interested in how a Biofalls would perform vs. a bog but the guy actually just talked about the relative size of the PONDS and the fact that the larger pond had a huge bog, not about the attributes of the two different methods of filtration, relative effectiveness of each method, and how hard each was to clean and maintain, etc. Not very informative in that regard.
Sorry, i could've made that clearer. Basically what i was trying to say because of the massive amount of space for the biological filtration to take place, you have more consistent stable results with a bog, as opposed to a bio falls. Bio falls works, but the rule of thumb is the bigger the better, and a bog is bigger, so better.
Thanks nice one
You bet!
Why not put shrimp in it to feed of the biofilm?
Could do that ;)
Great thanks for you reply
You bet!
👍--I learned.
Good!
If yall werent 3 hours away, i would def put an application in lol
Haha! That would be a terrible commute! :)
Unfortunately one cannot gauge WATER QUALITY by viewing or comparing via clear cup unless of course it's DRASTICALLY different in appearance. WATER CLARITY however yes.
That is true
Awesome
Thnaks :)
Good on you bro for mentioning this to others and explaining the difference between large and small water features. 😉😊
It might be worth doing a video perhaps on ponds loaded with marginals Vs one with a light plantation of marginals. There are many factors involved with living bodies of water that's worth mentioning.
But keeping it basic, you can't go wrong
You are right, a lot of factors come in to play, and marginal plants is a big one. I left that out on this video, but for anyone reading this, there is an array of factors that can play into this. Plants matter a lot, especially marginals. We recommend having 40-60% of your shoreline covered in marginal plants
Nobody with a pond has ever said I wish it was smaller
That's for sure
why go larger for the smaller pond can't i just add a larger bio filtration and exchange the water more often to stabilize the system and have less build up on the rocks
You could yes, but if you go to all the work and space to do that, may as well have a larger pond. But yes, you could do what you said
Um, isn't the smaller pond older, thus had more time for biofilm and algae to develop on the rocks. I often see people showing off brand new ponds with nice clean rocks but often those same pond rocks will be covered in a thick layer of biofilm in just a few years. However, it really depends on the amount of nutrients in the water.
Good question, but no. These two ponds were installed within 6 months of each other, and at the time of filming were about 4 years old
I want classes with this info. But not with college bloatware.
Ha! We will take note of that! Thanks for watching!
Aperte a tecla sap
Ponds for the one percent.
Now talk about a pond filtration with ducks LOL
*No excuse on the small pond, its badly designed and lacks filtration.*
How is it badly designed?
@@Tusseylandscaping For starters the filter (bio-falls),is only a biological filter. You need mechanical filtration to remove the particles from the water, this will clear up the mess settling out over the rocks. Before you say this is bio film, its not! bio film is exactly what it says it is a thin film that coats everything in the pond not a thick sludge. All this sludge is a breading ground for bad bacteria and will explain why the water parameters are not stable in the small pond. Correct filtration in the small pond will rectify the problems.
Agree with your comment entirely. However, we do have mechanical filtration installed on both the ponds in the video, they both have nearly identical skimmer boxes with mechanical filtration
@@Tusseylandscaping I would be inclined to add a pump to add some circulation to the water to keep the particles suspended so the filter can remove them. I know this means extra cleaning, but create a more stable environment. By the way both ponds are great looking.
CLICK BAIT - never even discussed topic in title