Autosport Wiring Connectors Decoded | (aka 'Mil Spec')
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- AS6-20-35 SN, what does that even mean? Let's find out!
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Autosport or Racespec connectors, which are sometimes incorrectly coined as 'Mil Spec', can be a little confusing when you're getting started, but there is certainly a clear logic to how to choose/spec a connector for your application and includes considerations such as where it will be mounted (firewall or bracket etc), making sure connectors next to each other cannot be plugged in the wrong way around by accident, and also ensuring you have the right amount of pins and crimp too for the job!
A common question is also what de-pinning tools do you use with connectors like this, and the answer is simple, they come supplied! Unlike your usual OEM level wiring correctors these are designed to go through many connection cycles rather than just a few, as well as being easily (with some skill) de-pinned for maintenance, repair or re-purposing.
Note the Autosport range is not the only style of this connector used in motorsports, Souriau is just one other common brand and a Souriau 8STA/8TA series connector is what Andre has in his hand to start with.
⚡️TE Connectivity DEUTSCH AS Standard Series Connectors: hpcdmy.co/te-autosport ⚡️
⚡️ SOURIAU 8STA/8TA Series: hpcdmy.co/souriau-autosport ⚡️
🤓 Practical Wiring - Professional Motorsport Harness Construction Course: hpcdmy.co/hpa-pro-wiring-yt
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TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Autosport Connectors Can Be Confusing
0:30 - ID Number, We'll Explain This Soon
1:06 - Physically What Do We Need - Documentation
2:46 - Advanced Documentation Continued: AS6-16-26SN
4:28 - Gauge/Wiring Sizing
5:32 - Checking What Connector Works: Link Below
07:10 - AS6-20-35 SN ID Number Explanation
07:30 - AS - Shell
08:04 - 6 - Contact Arrangement
9:18 - Type 1 or 0 Receptacle
09:58 - S OR P and N - Socket And Pin
10:30 - N - Keying/Keyway
11:07 - Connector Summary
12:08 - Tooling (Crimp Tool)
13:26 - Motorsport Wiring Lesson
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#highperformanceacademy #wiring101 #motorsportwiring #autosport #souriau #deustch #racespec #circularconnectors #dontletthesmokeout #gofasterwithdata #racecraft #learndriveoptimise #motorsports #milspec #wiring #connector #motorsport #todayathpa #update - Авто та транспорт
![What IS Concentric Twisting? | Motorsport Wiring [#TECHTALK]](/img/n.gif)
⚡️TE Connectivity DEUTSCH AS Standard Series Connectors: hpcdmy.co/te-autosport ⚡️
⚡️ SOURIAU 8STA/8TA Series: hpcdmy.co/souriau-autosport ⚡️
🤓 Practical Wiring - Professional Motorsport Harness Construction Course: hpcdmy.co/hpa-pro-wiring-yt
💸 Take $25 USD off ANY HPA course with coupon code: UA-cam25
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TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Autosport Connectors Can Be Confusing
0:30 - ID Number, We'll Explain This Soon
1:06 - Physically What Do We Need - Documentation
2:46 - Advanced Documentation Continued: AS6-16-26SN
4:28 - Gauge/Wiring Sizing
5:32 - Checking What Connector Works: Link Below
07:10 - AS6-20-35 SN ID Number Explanation
07:30 - AS - Shell
08:04 - 6 - Contact Arrangement
9:18 - Type 1 or 0 Receptacle
09:58 - S OR P and N - Socket And Pin
10:30 - N - Keying/Keyway
11:07 - Connector Summary
12:08 - Tooling (Crimp Tool)
13:26 - Motorsport Wiring Lesson
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This was very informative for me. I also am so impressed with your clear speaking tone. I find you so easy to understand and for someone who has some hearing loss, what is normally a huge problem for me, you make very easy for me to understand. Thank you.
I use most of the techniques you've given me for engine building and applied them to things as such as generator and pressure washer engines on mini bikes and go karts and I have to say the amount of improvement in horsepower gains and rigidity to the block while also having reliability is outstanding.
Many years ago I tried to stock a good range of connectors, pins, blanking pins, back shells, etc.
It rapidly became more trouble than it was worth. Having to explain what was suitable for what applications to virtually every customer takes hrs of time. Good effort on the vid.
Hopefully, with more videos like this you can just point them here instead haha
Andre did a great one here a while back as well: ua-cam.com/video/fNgWztn7TL0/v-deo.html
In my previous role I usually tried to limit it to 3-4 options for customers if it was a situation where there were many. 2-3 adequate, one 'baller' even if the customer stated they just wanted the cheapest so I could help better explain the pros and cons of the decision of either side of the scale in general. It doesn't hold hard and fast to every product choice, but I found it helpful and a time saver without cutting corners.
The best and worst thing about dealing directly with people is the people eh! Often full of surprises, good and bad - Taz.
Awesome video boys
Chur brother! Hope you're keeping well 😎 - Taz.
Note we don't SELL any connectors so we can't help with prices, but there is a thread on our forum the HPA members created that has an epic list of motorsport wiring suppliers for you guys 😎 - Taz.
www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/show/wiring-and-accessories-suppliers-list?
Andre, your documentation specifies an AS616-26SN as the bulkhead connector, which takes only 26 size 20 contacts, whereas you go on to talk about the AS620-35SN which is the connector that your documentation should specify for the 79 conductors required to pass through the bulkhead.
Yes a little confusing sorry, he switches to a different connector for the actual explanation after showing you what he is using, he just picks one at random from the page. The explanation is still valid though - Taz.
@@hpa101Yeah, the explanation is valid. I am just concerned about your documentation, as if that's the case, the documentation still needs addressing. It has the incorrect connector pin out shown next to the connector description (as the connector pin out shown in the documentation is an AS 620-35SN) and the 202K163 moulded boot listed would not recover small enough for a size the AS 616-26SN (it would require a 202K153 or 142).
@@callum1794 sorry I thought I had replied to this rather than leaving you hanging. Yup you're right, this was copied over from the RX7 documentation and Andre didn't quite finish it before this vid, so that is indeed not correct. Don't worry, he didn't try to fit the wrong part.
We had a chat the other day and I think we can do a bit better. While this is helpful for the intended topic and goal of helping understand the ID/Serial numbers of Autosport style connectors, we will reshoot it and replace this video later in the year with something a little more refined.
Cheers for your input too, always appreciated - Taz.
Amazing content. Thank you
Much appreciated and glad you enjoyed it mate, cheers! - Taz.
This is great stuff, the biggest problem I have is finding connectors that are for more amateur/lower cost projects that have more than 4-6 pins. Even the deutsch ones and similar can be pretty pricey and/or hard to find, and the price jump to the mil/autosport connectors isn't just a little jump, it's orders of magnitude higher.
Fueltech makes a CPC connector that works great for the price point.
This video was really helpful, I’ve been a hobbyist auto electrician for a while now, helping people with projects on oem cars. One issue I have currently is finding connectors with good information on Max Current through the connector as a whole. Is there a good rule of thumb that can be followed (ie a Deutsch connector with 12 pins that can carry 7amps each has an overall current rating of 84amps)?
Also, I don’t know why, but I’d never thought to split power lines out into multiple pins on connectors, then open barrel splice them back together nearer the device 😂
Hoping to get Andre to do similar on DTM connectors for you guys too in the next few weeks. Glad you found this one helpful in more than one way as well, cheers for the support 😎 - Taz.
so apologies if i missed it. my car is currently wired with GXL. I'm using twist lock deutsch connectors right now. I'd like to swap to autosport connectors when i swap engines. will i have to reqire with TXL or will GXL wire work? wasn't sure on insulation thickness.
Is it normal for these do be extremely stiff when you first get them to the point where you have to use Channel lock pliers to get them to disconnect? Stiff seems reasonable, but nearly impossible makes me think I got a bad connector
Money throw away things….spent about a 1000 on 2 milspec ones…
Yes they are not cheap, and then there is the tooling. Sometimes you can buy harnesses that have been lifed out to get them cheaper secondhand, but obviously you might not get exactly what you want that way either - Taz
@@hpa101 i have just ordered contacts from mouser and size 23 backshells for an amphenol because ofcourse internet points and bragging on your MWA page….the terminals cost me 700 USD along with the backshells that need 5-6 months on back order. Had bought a used Amphenol kit from a guy on that same page so ya know what happens next…
Anyway…..internet points…..
We use these all the time in aviation. Very expensive lol.
not TE autosport in aviation, most likely MS series amphenol or cinch.
@@benriggs3108 im talking about MIL connectors in general. Tools are from DMC.
@@kaisuhina8024 1. autosport connectors aren't MIL connectors, they're "autosport" connectors.
@@kaisuhina8024 I put 'Mil Spec' in the title as often people refer to this and other materials as such, but as Ben mentions these are Autosport & Souriau (first one shown anyway) connectors. Possibly from the same parts bins as what you will be working with but generally they aim for lighter with a higher pin density from what I understand by comparison to what you probably work with, but aviation is a massive industry with many levels to it as well.
Note when it comes to the term 'Mil Spec' it means nothing without the actual specification being stated too. For motorsports we prefer using Racespec or Autosport terms, but as above as many people search for Mil Spec in order to make content like this helpful we sometimes include that term too - Taz.
@@kaisuhina8024 also you are bang on that these are not cheap, and nor is the associated tooling. We cover 'club' vs 'professional' level wiring a little more including the associated tools here in a 5 minute or so read if anyone is interested: www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/club-level-vs-pro-level-wiring/? -Taz.
Or as aircraft maintainers call them, cannon plugs. 😅
That term actually came from the audio industry I believe where this style was first used? - Taz.
@@hpa101 I did a quick google, according to wikipedia "The first "Cannon plug", the M-1 connector, was initially designed as a quick grounding connection for the electrical motor on a portable meat grinder and was adapted for movie sound equipment, enabling the new electrical camera to move freely about while “shooting” a scene." So, I stand corrected!
@@rhubarbpie2027 so do I! Crazy to think grinding your meat/s used to be such an activity that you'd want a portable grinder for it.
Like did you just rock around to your mates with a slab of beer and your meat grinder on a Saturday arvo or what? 😂 - Taz.
@@hpa101 "Oi, I'll bring over the grinder, you grab the suds, we'll make an evening of it!" Lol. Love your content, especially the Haltech fuse junction box! 🍻🍻
Do you need autosport connectors on a 1200-1500HP twin-turbo car that will spend 99% of it's life on the street?
Do you need a 1500hp street build? Answer is much the same. No you don't, but you probably want one anyway.
Same goes for Autosport connectors in that application.
A major advantage of them is their high mating cycles and ease of use. This is great for a motorsport application because the team will be servicing the vehicle often, often at pace, and that involves disconnecting them often as well.
You won't be doing that with a street car to the same extent, so you don't strictly need that advantage.
That is not the only advantage or consideration, but it's the one I have picked here today for you 😂
So the answer is no, with the point that what you're doing isn't strictly necessary either which is why some choose to go all out on the wiring as well because they can, and others will get the same results with something that is more akin to a Club level harness or something of a hybrid that uses some higher end materials mixed with mid-level (OEM is low level in this example) and be just as happy - Taz.
www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/pro-vs-club-level-harness-construction/?
@@hpa101 You make a load of excellent points.
Do I need a 1500 HP street build? Of course not, but I want it anyway.
Do I need to run MoTeC when Holley would be perfectly fine for a fraction of the price? Nope, but I want it anyway.
My original question was largely aimed at deciding between a MoTeC M142 and M182, which appear to be the same ECU, but the M182 has motorsport connectors whereas the M142 has plastic.
This will be an all out build, so I guess the extra $2000 or so for the M182 and motorsport connectors won't really move the needle much one way or the other. Thanks for the insight!
I think you're making good life choices no matter what by the sounds here 😂
But yes, you could go either way on that and be fine to give you a direct and specific answer.
The alternative to Autosport is still a good choice, they're not going to fall apart or anything and note the tools for the terminals those connectors use are pretty spendy too but you can often find the likes of DMC crimp tools second hand or some suppliers (I have heard) rent them too.
Just don't let that choice come at the cost of something else awesome like a PDM or similar 😂
Happy wiring/tuning/building! Fire up a link to your IG or build thread etc if you're into that. Always cool to see what people are quietly working away on 😎 - Taz.
@@hpa101 Oh, my build thread? Ummmm, yeah, about that.... Truth is, I possess neither the knowledge nor the talent to do such a build, so I'll be leaning heavily on an engine builder to do the heavy lifting.
Here's where it gets tricky, and where you might want to rethink your comment about my making good life choices... I have a penchant for being different and going against the grain, so instead of going with an LS3/LS7 which has loads of highly reputable builders (Steve Morris, Texas Speed, LME, Nelson Racing, etc.) ... I *just have* to be different so I'm looking to build it around a Gen V LT1... just to be different.
I'm also making it even harder on myself by choosing to build it up around a 99-02 Trans Am Firehawk instead of "just" a WS6. WS6s can be found relatively easily, but Firehawks are rarer than hen's teeth. Now of course I could just buy a WS6, de-badge it, and slap a Firehawk logo on the side and no one would ever know... but having that VIN that identifies it as a bona-fide factory built Firehawk is absolutely essential. On the rare occasion an actual Firehawk does show up, it's a garage queen and the guy is asking a zillion dollars for it. I'm looking for a car that's been beat to hell, because the project will be a complete frame off restoration, so the *only* thing I care about is the VIN that establishes the provenance of it starting its life as a factory Firehawk.
Now, onto life choices. Holley has loads of support and plenty of dyno tuners and as a system would do more than everything I need for 1/4 the price of MoTeC, but with MoTeC I can say things like "it has a full MoTeC system," so MoTeC it is. If my newly built 1500 HP street car gets hit by an asteroid the day after the build is complete, plastic connectors might come undone, but motorsport connectors are likely to remain intact, so M182 and motorsport connectors are the way to go. You can't take 3 steps without tripping over a dozen highly skilled builders that can build up a 1500 HP LS3/LS7 and barely anyone is doing anything with the new LT1, so LT1 it is. Lastly, I'm toying with the idea of bolting it all up to a Tremec TR-9070 DCT instead of the tried and true T-56 Magnum. I may even engage good ol' Simon at PPG for a billet gearset to help the DCT cope with 1500 HP. I guess only time will tell...
In summary, I'm a bonehead. Thanks for coming to my TED talk.