I saw the same video of the man pouring the polyurethane out of the water can. He also had a t-bar which I think makes a huge difference. I used the lambswool/paint pole method like you did. We did two coats of polyurethane 6 hours apart because minwax said we did not have to sand in between those two coats. But for me I believe that was a mistake. I would recommend sanding in between the first two coats. We did however sand thoroughly before the third coat. On our third coat we did three to one ratio. 3 parts paint, 1 part mineral spirits. The polyurethane went on smoother and seemed to levelize & dry alot faster. A lot of trial and error.
Sounds like you went about it smartly. I enjoyed not only saving the money, but the satisfaction of saying I did it myself, and it looks great. Thanks for commenting!
Looks good Mike I did my floors 9. Yrs ago oil base minded it took more then two days to dry. On dah 3 I had help moving the couch back a f the weight of couch made my foot twist my shoe so I ended up with foot marks. Not good. Lessons learned oil base polyurethane needs more then 3 days more like 5 days.
I enjoyed the video..until he said 'don't hire the guys with one truck and a contractor's license, because this week they are doing floors, last week, they were doing cabinets'. I have a brother who has a one truck business who does beautiful hardwood floors, both installing and finishing and also does beautiful tile work, painting, and all sorts of remodeling/restoration projects. That doesn't apply to everyone.
I put in about 10% or so of Paint thinner into the Polyurethane to have it self-level a bit more, as on a smaller floor, the thick PU seemed to cause some roughness. Great Video, MM!
Looks very good. if you have a round neck on your can it pours a lot better, but it all comes down to controlling the applicator anyway. nice job for sure.
When you were pouring the PU, you needed to pour at a lower distance from the way you were pouring the PU in the garden water container. I can just see the PU coming out in a splattering manner,
Do yourself a favor and watch both pros and amateurs. Sometimes it is helpful to see what not to do. It's all about attitude. I have learned alot by watching a determined beginner make mistakes then find a solution for a great looking end result. .
Keith Castleberry I chose the wool applicator because I wasn't sure how the roller would work. Poly manufacturer recommended applicator so that's what I used. I was able to control thickness pretty well.
redbaron2448 Minwax Super Fast Drying Polyurethane for Floors Gloss. I sanded between the 1st and 2nd coat and rather then between the 2nd and 3rd coat I applied the 3rd coat after 10 hours but not before 12 hours as per the instructions. I think that's how it went. Anyhow, per the instructions you don't need to sand in between coats if you catch it at the right dry time.
This guy has no idea what he’s doing you never use a drill mixer to mix a can of poly, you get bubbles if you do. You use a paint stick and stir it slow.
Im a one truck painting contractor. I’d recommend a cabinet guy to do floor before I recommend a floor guy to do cabinet. Neither are brain science, but cabinets are way more work and HAVE to be beautiful.
Coming off 30 years of all aspects of painting, from cabinets to woodwork to exterior to floors. I realized every aspect of floors are a subset of everything I learned. It is way easier to drum sand a few coats of poly and stain off a floor, for example, than grind off 36 layers, 100 years worth, off a side of a house, while hanging 30 feet in the air or tight rope walking on a toothpick with 200 feet of cord, on soft wood and not damaging surface. No climate control for your 300 a gallon polyurethanes, epoxies, etc. Staining cheap poplar, with epa compliant stain, etc. Trying to lacquer staircases in 40 degree million dollar homes. The biggest learning curve, so far, has been adjusting to changing voc, and tighting up the contract. Fortunately, I am enough of a skeptic, learning from all of the bad painting advice, I have avoided dumb advice by so called experts.
I saw the same video of the man pouring the polyurethane out of the water can. He also had a t-bar which I think makes a huge difference. I used the lambswool/paint pole method like you did. We did two coats of polyurethane 6 hours apart because minwax said we did not have to sand in between those two coats. But for me I believe that was a mistake. I would recommend sanding in between the first two coats. We did however sand thoroughly before the third coat. On our third coat we did three to one ratio. 3 parts paint, 1 part mineral spirits. The polyurethane went on smoother and seemed to levelize & dry alot faster. A lot of trial and error.
Sounds like you went about it smartly. I enjoyed not only saving the money, but the satisfaction of saying I did it myself, and it looks great. Thanks for commenting!
Thanks you for sharing. I did 4:1 radio mix with mineral spirits, and I got very good finish.
Looks good Mike I did my floors 9. Yrs ago oil base minded it took more then two days to dry. On dah 3 I had help moving the couch back a f the weight of couch made my foot twist my shoe so I ended up with foot marks. Not good. Lessons learned oil base polyurethane needs more then 3 days more like 5 days.
gorgeous floors
I enjoyed the video..until he said 'don't hire the guys with one truck and a contractor's license, because this week they are doing floors, last week, they were doing cabinets'. I have a brother who has a one truck business who does beautiful hardwood floors, both installing and finishing and also does beautiful tile work, painting, and all sorts of remodeling/restoration projects. That doesn't apply to everyone.
I still would recommend a contractor with good references who exclusively does hardwood floors.
I put in about 10% or so of Paint thinner into the Polyurethane to have it self-level a bit more, as on a smaller floor, the thick PU seemed to cause some roughness.
Great Video, MM!
Paint thinner? So toxic chemicals on top of toxic chemicals? lol
Alarmist
Looks very good. if you have a round neck on your can it pours a lot better, but it all comes down to controlling the applicator anyway. nice job for sure.
Did you wet the lambswool with mineral spirits before applying finish coat?
When you were pouring the PU, you needed to pour at a lower distance from the way you were pouring the PU in the garden water container. I can just see the PU coming out in a splattering manner,
After the last coat are you sanding or polishing or ??? Thx !
please dont mix the finish like he did in video! thank you.
Joe Russotto lol. You're welcome.
How many coats does it typically take
Lmao
Do you recomen semigloss or high gloss?
Pro Tip, at 9:01 he says, "I'm learning as I go". Do yourself a favor and watch someone who already knows what they're doing.
Do yourself a favor and watch both pros and amateurs. Sometimes it is helpful to see what not to do. It's all about attitude. I have learned alot by watching a determined beginner make mistakes then find a solution for a great looking end result.
.
@@markahearn1 well said. Clearly he spent nine minutes watching this video. So why did he even take the time to say a comment like that anyways? 😅
what do you think of the lambs wool applicator?? I have watched a lot of these videos and the lambs wool roller looks soooo much easier.
Keith Castleberry I chose the wool applicator because I wasn't sure how the roller would work. Poly manufacturer recommended applicator so that's what I used. I was able to control thickness pretty well.
Mike Meegan tmtmymymymymymymmymmym;
Did you sand the floor in between the second coat? Also what kind of polyurethane is it. Great video. Thanks
redbaron2448 Minwax Super Fast Drying Polyurethane for Floors Gloss. I sanded between the 1st and 2nd coat and rather then between the 2nd and 3rd coat I applied the 3rd coat after 10 hours but not before 12 hours as per the instructions. I think that's how it went. Anyhow, per the instructions you don't need to sand in between coats if you catch it at the right dry time.
Mike Meegan Ok great. Thank you very much for the help.
you don't mix it
My first coat is bumpy. Small tiny bumps on the floor. Anyone know why?
probably bubbles from roughly mixing the poly with a drill attachment.
Is it normal to take 3 days to dry
No too much product..put on thin
Did you notice any bubbles after the first coat?
Justin Mills no
OK thanks for the reply
Ask him about the ripples though....
😂
All jokes aside, looks great! 👌👌
@@killatron-rf2mz 😑😑😑
you stir it
Yeah, cause nobody can do cabinets AND hardwoods lol
Lol dont hire someone who did 30 floors..do it yourself with a water jug and 5 gal bucket mixer..
Oil base minwax
Never mix polyurethane with a mixer like that or shake it that’s just dumb I always use a stick
This guy has no idea what he’s doing you never use a drill mixer to mix a can of poly, you get bubbles if you do. You use a paint stick and stir it slow.
Im a one truck painting contractor. I’d recommend a cabinet guy to do floor before I recommend a floor guy to do cabinet. Neither are brain science, but cabinets are way more work and HAVE to be beautiful.
Lol easy haha try a hard wood floor.
Coming off 30 years of all aspects of painting, from cabinets to woodwork to exterior to floors. I realized every aspect of floors are a subset of everything I learned. It is way easier to drum sand a few coats of poly and stain off a floor, for example, than grind off 36 layers, 100 years worth, off a side of a house, while hanging 30 feet in the air or tight rope walking on a toothpick with 200 feet of cord, on soft wood and not damaging surface. No climate control for your 300 a gallon polyurethanes, epoxies, etc. Staining cheap poplar, with epa compliant stain, etc. Trying to lacquer staircases in 40 degree million dollar homes. The biggest learning curve, so far, has been adjusting to changing voc, and tighting up the contract. Fortunately, I am enough of a skeptic, learning from all of the bad painting advice, I have avoided dumb advice by so called experts.