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You do a fantastic job. In your work practice and your ability to explain yourself clearly and not omit any details. I have learned all I need to know to be confident with a ng to lpg conversion as well as troubleshoot another issue after only two videos. Thank you for your professionalism.
Great video the end you mentioned the screws in the burners that was what I was looking for my furnace calls for them just wanted to know what they did, and you explained it great job!
One gas furnace manufacturer propane conversion kit didn't come with in line low pressure gas safety switch. I called them, and they said they don't want low pressure switch installed because it is detrimental to their gas Valve diaphragm.
A safety switch will have no impact on a gas valve diaphragm. That was a pretty bad excuse. That is a shame that they didn't provide one. Most manufacturers do, thanks
Great video! I adjusted the pressure to 9.5 the flames however seem very long and are going down the curve of the tubes. They are blue until a few inches before the tube bends then the flame is yellow going down the bend.
Excellent video. More than I probably need to do, but you gave me a good idea of what I might have to do to convert an old wall mount unit I have to heat my garage.
I am in th process of doing this on a 10 year old Carrier furness. Going from lp back to natural gas. However I do not believe the installer left the original parts from the natural gas unit. I'm going to look around the furness more to see if I can find them, however if I do not what is the best method to use to track down and locate these parts? Should I just contact the manufacturer with model number or is there a cheaper easier way to find what I need? Any online suppliers you can recommend? Excellent video, very helpfully.... Thank you!!
I usually contact the local distributor to get the conversion kit back to natural gas. Go to the manufacturer website and look up distributor locator or call around to see which of your local distributors deal with Bryant/Carrier/Payne. I don't have an online source for that one, thanks!
18:30 AC service tech! What happens if the inlet gas pressure to the gas valve is beyond the 13 in WC. Say it's 15 or 20 etc. More or less....do you call gas company to adjust or do that yourself? What's the next steps to fix... thanks... also would you run the unit in the meantime or safety hazard?
Thank you for these great videos. Can anyone help? I have a 70,000 BTU Rheem running on propane. The Inlet pressure to gas valve is 12" WC outlet is at 11" and regulator will NOT adjust to the required manifold pressure to 10" WC. I've replaced the White Rogers gas valve 36J24-214 and converted to LP but still won't reduce. There is absolutely NO response whatsoever when the adjustment screw is turned either way. I replaced the natural gas spring that came with the valve with the LP spring F92-0659 and the burner orifices are 1.10 M as required by the manufacture. any ideas?
Is there any possible way to adjust pressure without a measuring meter?? Or bout how many turns will it take to make this change over. Leaning to dirty fuel but have not adjusted pressure orifice size is lp 42
I am not a tech by any means, however is that galvanized as opposed to black iron? I am going to install a furnace and I read that due to possibly of flaking of galvanized it is not recommenced. great information, thanks for taking the time
Our inspectors only allow galvanized to be installed here since we are near the coast. However, it does not even refer to the topic in our code book IFGC 2018 so it is up to your local inspector and how they feel about it, thanks!
in case the upstream regulator (i.e. tank side) has a restriction failure, should not the supply propane side be "stress tested as well tested during combustion if existing system has no low pressure cut off in-place?
So after you connect one of your leads from the low pressure switch to your flame sensing rod. Where did you connect your purple lead from the low pressure switch. Where did you connect your other one?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge through making this video. Near the end, you were adjusting the spring screw to get more pressure at the out port. I am going to have the same issue and probably to a greater extent because I had planned on using small 20lb tanks for the lp supply. I have 5 of these tanks and since using LP will be temporary, I'm hoping to avoid the cost of acquiring a larger tank. My intention is to plumb the LP in somewhat near the furnace, which is in the basement, and thus where the tank will be. How much does a cold climate affect the pressure when the tank is kept outside? What effect on pressure would up sizing the orifice a level or two above the recommended size have? Lastly, in your response to another person's posted question, you explained if pressure out is too high there could be a problem with excessive heat and if it were low then the furnace may not generate enough heat to keep up with the demands put on the system when the outside temp gets too cold. That is a problem I live with by closing certain register vents. I know that is a lot and your probably shaking your head at what im trying to do but Im asking in all seriousness because I don't know. Thanks for taking time out for all your help.
Make sure that you do not store the propane in the living area basement. That needs to stay outside in case of a leak. Do not change the orifice size to something other than what the manufacturer is calling for when running on propane. The biggest thing is just to have enough propane tank capacity to have enough available vapor run to run the furnace continuously. The owner in the video needed to add another tank to maintain the vapor pressure. To determine the pressure, you can look up propane p/t chart to see the vapor pressure at each temp but that is included in a propane tank sizing calculation. I don't think any tech would hook up into that. Unfortunately you would need to buy or rent the properly sized tank, thanks Timothy.
Hi there. I have a lp furnace that was converted years ago, that works but just won’t get much heat. It takes forever to raise the homes temperature by 1 degree. Any thoughts?
Acservicetech. I have a natural gas water heater that was bought for a super price on a closout two years ago. They told me I can use it for propane, turns out it is for natural gas. I don't have money to get another one. Is there anything I can do to convert the water heater so I can hook up propane? Also the water heater is Rheem classical. Your such a good instructor.
You would need to purchase a new gas valve assembly if the old one cannot be converted. The water heater itself would typically be fine to change over but you need conversion or one made for propane, thanks
The conversion kit was purchased by the manufacturer and comes with the propane wc pressure. The existing rating plate would only have nat gas pressure, thanks!
So the union or a flexible connector is the last thing to get connected when installing a system. This is because the piping is heading in two different directions. Thanks
So I live in a Mobil home that came with a natural gas furnace, and when I moved in it was running on propane. I suspect that the person who originally bought the house skipped the conversion, would the furnace run, even if the conversion wasn't done?
@@acservicetechchannel I went on a call one time where a guy was bleeding lp near a water heater got blown through a wall. He did not know about the difference in gas. He was lucky only minor injuries.
then at home hvac ,after few time try ingnite itself, din't get gas come out , which one has problem ..knowing someone pls asw. other side fans no problemed did see in mind
I have a question about break the flame rod wire The flame rod is send a signal to the circuit board to prove burner are ignite, since breaking the flame rod wire, how to send a signal back to circuit board?
Yes if there is a safety concern then the safety switch would open the electrical circuit ending the danger of the flame. If there is no danger then the safety switch would remain closed and electricity would flow, thanks
Thank you very much for your comment! We follow the IFGC 2015 here. It does not bring up the topic or mention not to use unions in furnace cabinets. I never use flex connections inside units. In my opinion, it is too thin of a metal to have coming through the cabinet wall as well as near burners. Thanks KaOsOwNED!
No Hey that is great! It is people like yourself that comment and let me know how much the videos mean to you. It encourages me to keep going. Thanks Juan!
Most do yes, unless it is an older furnace with a conversion kit installed a long time ago. The main purpose is so that if the propane tank were to get low that there would not be an abnormal flame in the combustion area. Thanks
Thank you very much for your comment! We follow the IFGC 2015 here. It does not bring up the topic or mention not to use unions in furnace cabinets. I never use flex connections inside units either. In my opinion, it is too thin of a metal to have coming through the cabinet wall as well as near burners. Thanks!
I need to convert a 2002 Nordyne KG6RC-120C - 20C 90+ AFUE updraft/horizontal unit from natural gas to propane. Nortek customer support says their Nortek kit 904090A is the correct one to use, but it does not appear to have a low pressure switch in the kit; Nortek CS says a low pressure switch is not necessary with this unit. Does this sound correct ? Also, my unit came without the larger panel which covers the control area; is it OK to operate it hung in a horizontal position in my shop without that covering panel ?
Most manufacturers provide a low pressure switch with the conversion kit. If the manufacturer is not concerned and if you make sure to not run the tank down to empty then you will be ok. If you want to find an generic low pressure switch with a tapped nipple then that would be good too. It is a safety that is normally provided. I cannot recommend that a furnace be permanently installed without that cover. It should operate ok but it will be easier to get dust into the combustion area and would be an electrical hazard. The electrical hazard is a big deal if it is accessible due to the amperage being drawn. Thanks for the questions Phil.
Thanks for the reply. I plan to hang the furnace overhead where it will not be accidentally accessible, but I will look at devising a cover for the burner compartment. Would the 12 to 13 inch water column line pressure and 10 inch water column regulated pressure also apply to this 120,000 BTU unit? The Honeywell gas valve on this unit does not have projections at the pressure measuring points so I assume I'll need an adapter to screw into these ports to attach a manometer tube unless one comes with the conversion kit I ordered yesterday. Finally, can you suggest a good source for a low pressure switch? I see conversion kits for other brands of furnaces that include one, but have not found a switch alone. BTW, there are well written instructions for building an inexpensive water column manometer at www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html In case other folks (like me) have no continued need for an electronic one. I plan to adapt one I already built to balance my Triumph motorcycle's carbs.
The exact pressure that they want you to set it at should be in their conversion kit instructions. It should also have an lp sticker and new ratings sticker to stick on your furnace. Yes you will need a barb adapter and you may be able to just pick one up at a hardware store. Here is an amazon one - amzn.to/2iUlcFr - but just select the 1/4" barb x 1/8" npt male pipe or - amzn.to/2it4gXQ -- Yeah I am having a hard time trying to find the tapped nipple and the switch by itself online even with one right in front of my face with the numbers on the unit. Yes original water column manometers are just that, inches of rise in a column of water. We all use digital ones to sense small pressures such as .1 and .2 wc
can someone let me know what could be wrong with mine as i have a goodman that is in good clean condition and the propane tank ran out around mid spring so I just got it filled and now when I turn the furnace on it tries to light but I get no flame and it tries again a few times, then you get a red blinking light that has a steady 1 blink at a time, could it be that there is air in the gas line or could it be the gas valve failed and haven't pulled the wires to test for 24v yet , anyone have any idea ?
It may have been a short run or you may have only had the gas line open for a short period of time but otherwise, the furnace may try 3 times and lockout, thanks!
At the 16:20 point in the video the tech preps the burner gas valve for gas inlet pressure testing. The added reminder (warning) to make sure the gas cock to the furnace has been CLOSED before loosening the inlet test port allen screw comes after the fact instead of before. I realize most techs are not likely to miss the step if they have their head in the game, they'll know not to monkey with a gas valve without turning the gas supply off. But doo-doo happens and what I'm afraid of is someone performing the conversion may PAUSE the video before seeing the warning to close the gas cock and possibly begin the process of opening the supply side test port with LP available to the valve. Also not mentioned, it is a good idea to have an electronic LP gas detector with alarm, operating in close proximity (on the floor) while working on LP equipment. A battery operated LP alarm should be in every furnace room or basement, fulltime, where LP equipment is utilized. The tech also mentions purging the gas line "from outside to the 1/2" gas supply union" on the furnace but he omits what precautions he took to safely perform the purge. Flammable gas supply lines should never be purged, open ended, inside a home but rather be temporarily connected to flexible tubing, suitable and long enough to carry waste gas to the outdoors, at least 10 ft from any structure.
Just thread sealant. I typically only use tape on water lines before adding some thread sealant on top just to help the thread slide instead of cut through the tape, thanks
That's not the supply pressure, that's the regulator lockup pressure. To check supply pressure to the appliance, you need to have the appliance running to check supply. Under a no gas flow the regulator will continue to fill the gas line until the pressure overcomes the opening force of the spring to close the seat, thus your lock up pressure. Same goes for natural gas.
I agree that what I checked first was the reg lockup pressure. I always check that first because sometimes the reg is set too low to even have a chance at providing the correct flow. I know the useful capacity measured in flow is too low going to the furnace. I did not check this on camera. The tubing is sized correctly, the regulator capacity is correct and spring pressure set right and there will be a pressure drop on operation but not that low. This has to due with the lp tank size and available vapor in the tank. I recommended a larger tank size since it was a 100lb tank at a campground unit and then I would come back. I just figured I would shoot the video since I was there. Thanks for your comment!
Thanks for the video!! Where would I be able to find one of those rubber bushings you used to connect the manometer tubes to the gas valve? I’ve looked online and can’t seem to find one.
I actually got that from my original yellow jack gauge type manometer as part of the kit back before I switched to the UEI digital and SDMN6 manometers, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC thanks for the reply. When I was at one of my wholesalers today I actually saw the nipple on the manometer gauge that you are talking about. Asked the owner of the company if he sells the nipple and he did. Yellow Jacket Part number is “78065 - Rubber Nipple” if anyone else in the future is wondering
Furnaces usually come as natural and they get converted to propane because natural gas is not available. Then when natural gas becomes available because they ran the main piping at the street and brought the piping and meter to the house, the furnace gets converted back to natural again, thanks!
Please please tell me when you have an idea. And I don't mean in exact figures or amount but just a subjective idea about how costly would it be for a typical middle class family.
For gas lines, we do not put anything on that surface or on flare surfaces, just the threads attaching the pipe or fitting to the union or flare. For refrigerant lines we use the appropriate oil for the refrigerant on flares. Thanks
If it does not have a low side but does have a high side and a txv for a metering device then you could check it with subcooling. However, there should be a low side port to add refrigerant. Usually systems have either no ports, a low side port only, or two ports- a high and a low. What pressure are you running on this line and what kind of unit is this? You could also check to see if you have 18-21 degree temp diff from where the return air comes in to where the supply air comes out. That would tell you if your charge was good on a comfort cooling system on high fan speed. Thanks
The nipple would come with the conversion kit or they would supply you with 1/8" piping to branch off of your inlet pressure tap on the electrical gas valve. I didn't make it. Thanks JM!
You may need a whole new gas valve assembly. Usually those standing water heaters can't simply be converted but the internals and gas valve all need to be changed, thanks
I got an IHS manometer . And the new Theme furnace use . A white Rogers gas valve . My vinyl hoses are a smaller diameter . And there are no ports to screw in the 1/4 barbed fitting. Every week this shit changes. I'm getting to hate the HVAC trade
QUESTIONS: regarding pressure adjustment, is it a matter of efficiencies? seems like you can fire it up with incorrect pressure and still have a burn. Additional foolish question. is this something a competent home handyman can do IF has a decent manometer (without blowing himself up)? HVAC guys want close to $200 here in the mountains to come out and adjust.
I will always highly recommend that a HVAC Tech be performing this work. A tech would know to zero out the manometer and adjust pressure accordingly especially since you are at a higher elevation. The pressure adjustment is the only thing left on most of these furnaces because all of the other factors are fixed in reference to efficiency. If the pressure is set to high then there could be a danger and also the high heat sensor would get tripped or wore down then trip. If it was set too low then the heater may not put out enough btu's on a cold night. Thanks for the question!
This may or may not have anything to do with the HVAC or propane furnaces but I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem I'm having with these pressure switches. Like this one: assets.alliedelec.com/70111623.jpg I've seen these used on various applications and the one on my propane furnace in my garage is similar. Any idea what causes these adjustable pressure switches to stick either open or closed? I've got three of those low pressure adjustable switches on my car I use to control various applications whenever the turbo builds up to 1 PSI of boost. All of these are mounted on a manifold I made using 1/8" NPT brass tees connected to a port after the throttle body. They are normally called a Hobbs switch because I think they invented the design but other companies have copied them. The switch at the end of the manifold disengages the A/C compressor (closed and normally closed contacts) when the turbo spools up, tends to stick in the open position every now and then. I can give it a slight tap with anything and it will go back to normally closed. Could oil leakage from the turbo (which is normal to some extent) be causing this to happen? Or is it the opposite and I should occasionally remove the set screw and shoot some oil into the switch to lubricate the spring/mechanism? The switches are actually suitable for oil, propane, natural gas etc. The first set of switches I used were made by Hobbs. The second set were made by some other company but look identical. I'm having the same problem with those brands. The problem with the A/C switch is bad enough but the other two control the fuel and ignition so I really don't want those to stick on me. The only way I can check these is with an OHMS meter every now and then to make sure they are not in the stuck in the wrong position.
Thank you for your reply. I was thinking these were good from 1 PSI up to 30 PSI. I'm only running 7 lbs of boost but that maybe the reason. I'll check to see if I can find the part number and verify the rating. Thank you.
In IFGC 2018 there is no difference mentioned between galvanized or black iron schedule 40. I live by the ocean and no supply house within an hour even sells black iron anymore. It rots here and leads to gas leaks. There is nothing wrong with installing black iron if you live inland. There is no reference an inspector has to fail an inspection of galvanized gas pipe because most cities use the IFGC for code reference, thanks.
@@acservicetechchannel we were told in hvac school it flakes off and can cause issues with the gas valve. Of course I took hvac school in the 70's so maybe since then they have changed the rules.
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You do a fantastic job. In your work practice and your ability to explain yourself clearly and not omit any details. I have learned all I need to know to be confident with a ng to lpg conversion as well as troubleshoot another issue after only two videos. Thank you for your professionalism.
What was all this about again?
Natural Gas heating for home to using Propane for heating home??
Thank you. My 5 year old mentality understood it.
Glad it helped!
Great video the end you mentioned the screws in the burners that was what I was looking for my furnace calls for them just wanted to know what they did, and you explained it great job!
Thanks for video. I'd always heard you have change orifices and such but have never done or seen it done.
Glad to help
One gas furnace manufacturer propane conversion kit didn't come with in line low pressure gas safety switch. I called them, and they said they don't want low pressure switch installed because it is detrimental to their gas Valve diaphragm.
A safety switch will have no impact on a gas valve diaphragm. That was a pretty bad excuse. That is a shame that they didn't provide one. Most manufacturers do, thanks
Great video
Thank you, Im learning the trade from your lessons
I absolutely love watching all your tutorials! Always can leave learning something of paramount importance 👌🏼
FACTORY SAYS YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE ALLEN SCREW JUST TURN IT TILL IT A LOOSE THEN PUT RUBBER CAP ON .
Thank you AC Service Tech. for all your amazing tutorials.
Thanks Mark!
Ac service tech your videos are to the point. You do a nice video every time. Thanks.
Thanks Lance!
Great video thanks!
I wonder how long a 100% tank would last on an older mobile home?
Very good video- very helpful… thanks for sharing!
Enjoyed the video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This was great. Thank you
Great video! I adjusted the pressure to 9.5 the flames however seem very long and are going down the curve of the tubes. They are blue until a few inches before the tube bends then the flame is yellow going down the bend.
What pressure does the manufacturers conversion kit say to set them at? Make sure to follow the pressure recommended by them, thanks
Sounds dangerous . Get a tech that has a manometer . Or buy a meter & Learn how to calibrate the gas valve . Read the instructions first !
Excellent video. More than I probably need to do, but you gave me a good idea of what I might have to do to convert an old wall mount unit I have to heat my garage.
Thanks for the great video!
Glad you liked it!
You are the greatest, love all your videos. Thank you so much my brother.
Glad to help Shawn!
Great video thx. JT
I am in th process of doing this on a 10 year old Carrier furness. Going from lp back to natural gas. However I do not believe the installer left the original parts from the natural gas unit. I'm going to look around the furness more to see if I can find them, however if I do not what is the best method to use to track down and locate these parts? Should I just contact the manufacturer with model number or is there a cheaper easier way to find what I need? Any online suppliers you can recommend? Excellent video, very helpfully.... Thank you!!
I usually contact the local distributor to get the conversion kit back to natural gas. Go to the manufacturer website and look up distributor locator or call around to see which of your local distributors deal with Bryant/Carrier/Payne. I don't have an online source for that one, thanks!
Would it be possible to convert a propane portable heater to natural gas? If yes, what would be the recommended modifications?
18:30 AC service tech! What happens if the inlet gas pressure to the gas valve is beyond the 13 in WC. Say it's 15 or 20 etc. More or less....do you call gas company to adjust or do that yourself? What's the next steps to fix... thanks... also would you run the unit in the meantime or safety hazard?
I would have the company come adjust their regulator and also never adjust outside the manufacturer specs for settings.
Where can I get that pipe nipple with the threads for the low LP pressure switch and the switch?
Thank you for these great videos. Can anyone help? I have a 70,000 BTU Rheem running on propane. The Inlet pressure to gas valve is 12" WC outlet is at 11" and regulator will NOT adjust to the required manifold pressure to 10" WC.
I've replaced the White Rogers gas valve 36J24-214 and converted to LP but still won't reduce. There is absolutely NO response whatsoever when the adjustment screw is turned either way. I replaced the natural gas spring that came with the valve with the LP spring F92-0659 and the burner orifices are 1.10 M as required by the manufacture. any ideas?
Some wire to flame rod some say pressure switch?
Is there any possible way to adjust pressure without a measuring meter?? Or bout how many turns will it take to make this change over. Leaning to dirty fuel but have not adjusted pressure orifice size is lp 42
Does it matter which way your gas valve sits , can it be up like in the video or 90deg
I am not a tech by any means, however is that galvanized as opposed to black iron? I am going to install a furnace and I read that due to possibly of flaking of galvanized it is not recommenced. great information, thanks for taking the time
Our inspectors only allow galvanized to be installed here since we are near the coast. However, it does not even refer to the topic in our code book IFGC 2018 so it is up to your local inspector and how they feel about it, thanks!
in case the upstream regulator (i.e. tank side) has a restriction failure, should not the supply propane side be "stress tested as well tested during combustion if existing system has no low pressure cut off in-place?
Good morning. It's the same process for 95% efficiency?
is there a way to have dual system (natural gas and propane) where the switch between them easy?
Hey thanks for the reply that helps
Glad to help Michael!
how do I find the exact pressure switch he is using?
amazing video learnt a lot thank you
Thanks for your comment!
Where did you connect the flame sensor wire
Where did you read that the manufacture required the Tap ?
And where did you read it required a low pressure gas switch
Thanks man, this helped me out Alot.
Thanks no days off!
Would I need to do this for tankless water heater? From propane to Lpg?
So after you connect one of your leads from the low pressure switch to your flame sensing rod. Where did you connect your purple lead from the low pressure switch. Where did you connect your other one?
Same question
Isn't galvanized pipe a no-no for LP gas?
Good job!
Thanks Marcus!
thanks Great info
Thanks Derrick!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge through making this video. Near the end, you were adjusting the spring screw to get more pressure at the out port. I am going to have the same issue and probably to a greater extent because I had planned on using small 20lb tanks for the lp supply. I have 5 of these tanks and since using LP will be temporary, I'm hoping to avoid the cost of acquiring a larger tank. My intention is to plumb the LP in somewhat near the furnace, which is in the basement, and thus where the tank will be. How much does a cold climate affect the pressure when the tank is kept outside? What effect on pressure would up sizing the orifice a level or two above the recommended size have? Lastly, in your response to another person's posted question, you explained if pressure out is too high there could be a problem with excessive heat and if it were low then the furnace may not generate enough heat to keep up with the demands put on the system when the outside temp gets too cold. That is a problem I live with by closing certain register vents. I know that is a lot and your probably shaking your head at what im trying to do but Im asking in all seriousness because I don't know. Thanks for taking time out for all your help.
Make sure that you do not store the propane in the living area basement. That needs to stay outside in case of a leak. Do not change the orifice size to something other than what the manufacturer is calling for when running on propane. The biggest thing is just to have enough propane tank capacity to have enough available vapor run to run the furnace continuously. The owner in the video needed to add another tank to maintain the vapor pressure. To determine the pressure, you can look up propane p/t chart to see the vapor pressure at each temp but that is included in a propane tank sizing calculation. I don't think any tech would hook up into that. Unfortunately you would need to buy or rent the properly sized tank, thanks Timothy.
Hi there. I have a lp furnace that was converted years ago, that works but just won’t get much heat. It takes forever to raise the homes temperature by 1 degree. Any thoughts?
Hello, Where can i purchase the Low pressure gas switch and the nipple . Thanks
Can propane gas heater unit covert to natural gas unit?
No pipe dope on the union?
Acservicetech. I have a natural gas water heater that was bought for a super price on a closout two years ago. They told me I can use it for propane, turns out it is for natural gas. I don't have money to get another one. Is there anything I can do to convert the water heater so I can hook up propane? Also the water heater is Rheem classical. Your such a good instructor.
You would need to purchase a new gas valve assembly if the old one cannot be converted. The water heater itself would typically be fine to change over but you need conversion or one made for propane, thanks
What brand was this unit? Sorry it was in the description
Why didn't you check for the wc factory recommended settings on the furnace data panel?
The conversion kit was purchased by the manufacturer and comes with the propane wc pressure. The existing rating plate would only have nat gas pressure, thanks!
instead of the union on the pipe can you use a coupler?
So the union or a flexible connector is the last thing to get connected when installing a system. This is because the piping is heading in two different directions. Thanks
So I live in a Mobil home that came with a natural gas furnace, and when I moved in it was running on propane. I suspect that the person who originally bought the house skipped the conversion, would the furnace run, even if the conversion wasn't done?
It might run. The combustion will be terrible and will produce very little heat.
How will go pull the power vent or motor our?
Do they have a chart to size the piping?
What happens if you strip the plastic piece taking it out how do get it out
For new tech's remember LP gas is heavier than air and goes to floor not up in air like natural gas. So don't bleed off to much.
Yes whenever possible, do that outside, thanks William!
@@acservicetechchannel I went on a call one time where a guy was bleeding lp near a water heater got blown through a wall. He did not know about the difference in gas. He was lucky only minor injuries.
then at home hvac ,after few time try ingnite itself, din't get gas come out , which one has problem ..knowing someone pls asw.
other side fans no problemed did see in mind
I have a question about break the flame rod wire
The flame rod is send a signal to the circuit board to prove burner are ignite, since breaking the flame rod wire, how to send a signal back to circuit board?
Are you talking about a normally closed safety switch breaking the flame sensor wire if the safety device opens?
yes
Yes if there is a safety concern then the safety switch would open the electrical circuit ending the danger of the flame. If there is no danger then the safety switch would remain closed and electricity would flow, thanks
since when do you install a union fitting INSIDE the furnace.....since when is that code???????
Thank you very much for your comment! We follow the IFGC 2015 here. It does not bring up the topic or mention not to use unions in furnace cabinets. I never use flex connections inside units. In my opinion, it is too thin of a metal to have coming through the cabinet wall as well as near burners. Thanks KaOsOwNED!
Lo
Good tip on counting the screwdriver turnings.
Thanks a lot for all of your comments, they are appreciated!
@@acservicetechchannel I'm sorry if I'm little flooding but I have Christmas vacations & totally engaged to your channel ;)
No Hey that is great! It is people like yourself that comment and let me know how much the videos mean to you. It encourages me to keep going. Thanks Juan!
What is the low pressure sensor do and why is it needed?
Low lp gas pressure can soot up the heat exchanger
Why was it sputtering on initial start up. Was it due to air in the line? Was there dirt or debris in the line?
Air in the lines for initial startup, thanks!
When you increase pressure which do you turn the screw?
Clockwise to increase pressure. Just like clock work :)
Do all changeovers involve the low pressure cutoff install? My unit is electric ignition , not pilot light/flame.
Most do yes, unless it is an older furnace with a conversion kit installed a long time ago. The main purpose is so that if the propane tank were to get low that there would not be an abnormal flame in the combustion area. Thanks
if you skip it what happens?
ChrisD4335 kaboom
Our gas company does not permit unions inside the furnace cabinet, nor flex gas lines.
Thank you very much for your comment! We follow the IFGC 2015 here. It does not bring up the topic or mention not to use unions in furnace cabinets. I never use flex connections inside units either. In my opinion, it is too thin of a metal to have coming through the cabinet wall as well as near burners. Thanks!
I need to convert a 2002 Nordyne KG6RC-120C - 20C 90+ AFUE updraft/horizontal unit from natural gas to propane. Nortek customer support says their Nortek kit 904090A is the correct one to use, but it does not appear to have a low pressure switch in the kit; Nortek CS says a low pressure switch is not necessary with this unit. Does this sound correct ?
Also, my unit came without the larger panel which covers the control area; is it OK to operate it hung in a horizontal position in my shop without that covering panel ?
Most manufacturers provide a low pressure switch with the conversion kit. If the manufacturer is not concerned and if you make sure to not run the tank down to empty then you will be ok. If you want to find an generic low pressure switch with a tapped nipple then that would be good too. It is a safety that is normally provided. I cannot recommend that a furnace be permanently installed without that cover. It should operate ok but it will be easier to get dust into the combustion area and would be an electrical hazard. The electrical hazard is a big deal if it is accessible due to the amperage being drawn. Thanks for the questions Phil.
Thanks for the reply. I plan to hang the furnace overhead where it will
not be accidentally accessible, but I will look at devising a cover for
the burner compartment.
Would the 12 to 13 inch water column line pressure and 10 inch water column regulated pressure also apply to this 120,000 BTU unit? The Honeywell gas valve on this unit does not have projections at the pressure measuring points so I assume I'll need an adapter to screw into these ports to attach a manometer tube unless one comes with the conversion kit I ordered yesterday.
Finally, can you suggest a good source for a low pressure switch? I see conversion kits for other brands of furnaces that include one, but have not found a switch alone.
BTW, there are well written instructions for building an inexpensive water column
manometer at www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html In case other
folks (like me) have no continued need for an electronic one. I plan to adapt one I already built to balance my Triumph motorcycle's carbs.
The exact pressure that they want you to set it at should be in their conversion kit instructions. It should also have an lp sticker and new ratings sticker to stick on your furnace. Yes you will need a barb adapter and you may be able to just pick one up at a hardware store. Here is an amazon one - amzn.to/2iUlcFr - but just select the 1/4" barb x 1/8" npt male pipe or - amzn.to/2it4gXQ
-- Yeah I am having a hard time trying to find the tapped nipple and the switch by itself online even with one right in front of my face with the numbers on the unit.
Yes original water column manometers are just that, inches of rise in a column of water. We all use digital ones to sense small pressures such as .1 and .2 wc
Did the spring get changed out?
can someone let me know what could be wrong with mine as i have a goodman that is in good clean condition and the propane tank ran out around mid spring so I just got it filled and now when I turn the furnace on it tries to light but I get no flame and it tries again a few times, then you get a red blinking light that has a steady 1 blink at a time, could it be that there is air in the gas line or could it be the gas valve failed and haven't pulled the wires to test for 24v yet , anyone have any idea ?
Hi, where can we find the switch/sensor you are using ? Thank you for your time
That seems to be the rough problem. They usually come with the lp kits. Here is a johnstonesupply.com # L41-667
Here is a link for them: amzn.to/2nDx86q
I have never had one on a propane conversion. There really isnt a need for it
Where do you adjust the incoming gas if needed?...I don't see a port
The propane company would adjust their regulator at the propane tank, thanks!
what's the point in purging the line? I changed a manifold out and the furnace came right on without purging??
It may have been a short run or you may have only had the gas line open for a short period of time but otherwise, the furnace may try 3 times and lockout, thanks!
How much do you charge a customer to do this conversion?
Do you use galvanized or black iron pipes for gas lines? Thanks.
By code you can use black iron or galvanized but I am located near the shore so all we use is galvanized.
At the 16:20 point in the video the tech preps the burner gas valve for gas inlet pressure testing. The added reminder (warning) to make sure the gas cock to the furnace has been CLOSED before loosening the inlet test port allen screw comes after the fact instead of before. I realize most techs are not likely to miss the step if they have their head in the game, they'll know not to monkey with a gas valve without turning the gas supply off. But doo-doo happens and what I'm afraid of is someone performing the conversion may PAUSE the video before seeing the warning to close the gas cock and possibly begin the process of opening the supply side test port with LP available to the valve. Also not mentioned, it is a good idea to have an electronic LP gas detector with alarm, operating in close proximity (on the floor) while working on LP equipment. A battery operated LP alarm should be in every furnace room or basement, fulltime, where LP equipment is utilized. The tech also mentions purging the gas line "from outside to the 1/2" gas supply union" on the furnace but he omits what precautions he took to safely perform the purge. Flammable gas supply lines should never be purged, open ended, inside a home but rather be temporarily connected to flexible tubing, suitable and long enough to carry waste gas to the outdoors, at least 10 ft from any structure.
Part # for rubber boot at 17:00?
Did you use just pipe thread sealant on those or did you use PTFE natural gas tape sealant also?
Just thread sealant. I typically only use tape on water lines before adding some thread sealant on top just to help the thread slide instead of cut through the tape, thanks
That's not the supply pressure, that's the regulator lockup pressure. To check supply pressure to the appliance, you need to have the appliance running to check supply. Under a no gas flow the regulator will continue to fill the gas line until the pressure overcomes the opening force of the spring to close the seat, thus your lock up pressure. Same goes for natural gas.
I agree that what I checked first was the reg lockup pressure. I always check that first because sometimes the reg is set too low to even have a chance at providing the correct flow. I know the useful capacity measured in flow is too low going to the furnace. I did not check this on camera. The tubing is sized correctly, the regulator capacity is correct and spring pressure set right and there will be a pressure drop on operation but not that low. This has to due with the lp tank size and available vapor in the tank. I recommended a larger tank size since it was a 100lb tank at a campground unit and then I would come back. I just figured I would shoot the video since I was there. Thanks for your comment!
Thanks for the video!!
Where would I be able to find one of those rubber bushings you used to connect the manometer tubes to the gas valve? I’ve looked online and can’t seem to find one.
I actually got that from my original yellow jack gauge type manometer as part of the kit back before I switched to the UEI digital and SDMN6 manometers, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC thanks for the reply. When I was at one of my wholesalers today I actually saw the nipple on the manometer gauge that you are talking about. Asked the owner of the company if he sells the nipple and he did. Yellow Jacket Part number is “78065 - Rubber Nipple” if anyone else in the future is wondering
Thanks Matt!
Are most of the conversions Propane to Natural Gas because of the lower NG cost?
Furnaces usually come as natural and they get converted to propane because natural gas is not available. Then when natural gas becomes available because they ran the main piping at the street and brought the piping and meter to the house, the furnace gets converted back to natural again, thanks!
Can anyone tell me how many hours I should be billed to convert furnace from propane to natural gas?
Please please tell me when you have an idea.
And I don't mean in exact figures or amount but just a subjective idea about how costly would it be for a typical middle class family.
Sorry...Thank you
That looks like non gas type thread sealant
This is a single stage furnace. What if you have two stage?
You would need to replace another spring then too. Both speeds would need to be measured and adjusted to manufacturer specs, thanks!
Do you put pipe dope on gas pipe union mating surfices? Thanks.
For gas lines, we do not put anything on that surface or on flare surfaces, just the threads attaching the pipe or fitting to the union or flare. For refrigerant lines we use the appropriate oil for the refrigerant on flares. Thanks
Thank you very much for your response.
No problem
Couldn't one just replace the gas valve?
I have a r 22 unit it does not have a low side service valve how can i check the pressure , i know is wierd ? Help. Please
If it does not have a low side but does have a high side and a txv for a metering device then you could check it with subcooling. However, there should be a low side port to add refrigerant. Usually systems have either no ports, a low side port only, or two ports- a high and a low. What pressure are you running on this line and what kind of unit is this? You could also check to see if you have 18-21 degree temp diff from where the return air comes in to where the supply air comes out. That would tell you if your charge was good on a comfort cooling system on high fan speed. Thanks
thanks for this ...
Thank you again for your comments! Each one is appreciated!
What if I go from LP to natural gas do I need to do all this ?
You would have to reinstall the nat gas spring, orifices and any combustion air plate and readjust gas pressure, thanks
where can I find the nipple adapter? where you put the cutoff switch. or did you made it yourself
The nipple would come with the conversion kit or they would supply you with 1/8" piping to branch off of your inlet pressure tap on the electrical gas valve. I didn't make it. Thanks JM!
I think he made it because i cant find it for the life of me
Hey can anybody tell me how I can convert gas to propane on a 40 gal Bradford please new heater.
You may need a whole new gas valve assembly. Usually those standing water heaters can't simply be converted but the internals and gas valve all need to be changed, thanks
Where can I get these plastic fittings for Manometer tubing in Ontario Canada
I got an IHS manometer . And the new Theme furnace use . A white Rogers gas valve . My vinyl hoses are a smaller diameter . And there are no ports to screw in the 1/4 barbed fitting.
Every week this shit changes. I'm getting to hate the HVAC trade
Ottawa
So we'll explain.
I can put my air condition company All ready.
Thanks
QUESTIONS: regarding pressure adjustment, is it a matter of efficiencies? seems like you can fire it up with incorrect pressure and still have a burn. Additional foolish question. is this something a competent home handyman can do IF has a decent manometer (without blowing himself up)? HVAC guys want close to $200 here in the mountains to come out and adjust.
I will always highly recommend that a HVAC Tech be performing this work. A tech would know to zero out the manometer and adjust pressure accordingly especially since you are at a higher elevation. The pressure adjustment is the only thing left on most of these furnaces because all of the other factors are fixed in reference to efficiency. If the pressure is set to high then there could be a danger and also the high heat sensor would get tripped or wore down then trip. If it was set too low then the heater may not put out enough btu's on a cold night. Thanks for the question!
never use goo that close to the box , use tape instead that way no chance of goo getting into box .
That union can't be inside the furnace, against code.
And what if you don’t have a tester
Chris, to set this correctly you really need to have a manometer and have experience doing this under another seasoned tech, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC ok
AC Service Tech LLC really don’t wanna pay a guy a lot of money to come out and install a heater that’s simple to do i’ll just buy the gauge
This may or may not have anything to do with the HVAC or propane furnaces but I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem I'm having with these pressure switches. Like this one:
assets.alliedelec.com/70111623.jpg
I've seen these used on various applications and the one on my propane furnace in my garage is similar.
Any idea what causes these adjustable pressure switches to stick either open or closed? I've got three of those low pressure adjustable switches on my car I use to control various applications whenever the turbo builds up to 1 PSI of boost. All of these are mounted on a manifold I made using 1/8" NPT brass tees connected to a port after the throttle body. They are normally called a Hobbs switch because I think they invented the design but other companies have copied them.
The switch at the end of the manifold disengages the A/C compressor (closed and normally closed contacts) when the turbo spools up, tends to stick in the open position every now and then. I can give it a slight tap with anything and it will go back to normally closed.
Could oil leakage from the turbo (which is normal to some extent) be causing this to happen? Or is it the opposite and I should occasionally remove the set screw and shoot some oil into the switch to lubricate the spring/mechanism? The switches are actually suitable for oil, propane, natural gas etc.
The first set of switches I used were made by Hobbs. The second set were made by some other company but look identical. I'm having the same problem with those brands.
The problem with the A/C switch is bad enough but the other two control the fuel and ignition so I really don't want those to stick on me. The only way I can check these is with an OHMS meter every now and then to make sure they are not in the stuck in the wrong position.
It may have something to do with how much pressure you are putting in there. They are only rated for 1/2psi or 14"water column, thanks
Thank you for your reply. I was thinking these were good from 1 PSI up to 30 PSI. I'm only running 7 lbs of boost but that maybe the reason. I'll check to see if I can find the part number and verify the rating. Thank you.
Looks like galvanized pipe? A big no no.
In IFGC 2018 there is no difference mentioned between galvanized or black iron schedule 40. I live by the ocean and no supply house within an hour even sells black iron anymore. It rots here and leads to gas leaks. There is nothing wrong with installing black iron if you live inland. There is no reference an inspector has to fail an inspection of galvanized gas pipe because most cities use the IFGC for code reference, thanks.
@@acservicetechchannel we were told in hvac school it flakes off and can cause issues with the gas valve. Of course I took hvac school in the 70's so maybe since then they have changed the rules.