Fujifilm GFX 100S II: Worth the Upgrade for Landscape Photography?
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- A few preliminary thoughts and opinions about the new GFX 100S II, and whether the new body is worth upgrading to for the purpose of creating landscape images.
Disclaimer: Fujifilm has not sponsored or paid for this video. Everything featured was paid for with my own money.
📦 PRODUCTS MENTIONED
Fujifilm GFX 100S II
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Fujifilm GF 32-64
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Fujifilm GFX 100S
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Fujifilm GFX 100 Mark II Dynamic Range Test (Jim Kasson)
blog.kasson.com/gfx-100-ii/fu...
Kase Clip-In UV Filter for GFX cameras
www.kasefiltersusa.com/kase-c...
📕 CHAPTERS
0:00 Intro
0:43 Disclaimer
0:56 Ergonomics
1:58 IBIS improvements
3:38 Auto focus improvements
4:31 Viewfinder improvements
5:05 New CMOS II sensor
7:45 Reala Ace
8:39 Pricing
11:22 Closing thoughts
13:07 Kase In-Body UV filter
13:49 Outro
Correction:
8:16 Meant to say "Provia"
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New owner of the 100s II. Like it. I'm coming from Canon so the menu feels like a weird relic or very PC...but image quality so nice.
I shoot a R6 & X-H2, the Canon menu is soooooo much easier to learn from scratch, I came from Nikon to Canon, menu was super easy. Been shooting Fuji for 20mths and still need to search around.
Enjoy watching all your videos. Thanks for your very informative comparison review on the Fuji GFX. I am hoping to transition into this system within the next few months.
I have been using GFX now for about a year and you will love it
FYI most modern camera bodies automatically disable IBIS for shutter speeds under a certain threshold
Thanks for a good review. I had to disqualify many of the Fujifilm cameras, not because of technical limitations. These are good stats. What disqualifies both versions are for political decisions. Excluding lens, If I bought or was given such a camera it would cost me over $1,000 more to make it usable to me. I'm talking both photography and video. A simple thing as a fully articulating screen was decided to be left out/off of the camera. When I mount the camera high up, so that I can shoot down, I need to see the screen to make sure everything is composed properly and the lighting is as it should be, as well as the focus hasn't shifted. This bad decision has been made by many camera companies. If photographers are concern about the screen breaking, leave it tucked next to the camera. Photographers also need a fully articulating screen. Fujifilm, you are listening to the wrong people! Luckily the X-s20 will meet my needs, even though it is not full frame. Fujifilm, stop leaving important things off of cameras such as an audio out spigot. I must admit disqualifying cameras for deficiencies is easier than choosing a camera. Good video.
Yes, you’re right. I have a tall tripod and like to sometimes raise the camera super high and pitch it downward in a vertical orientation. And…you can’t see a thing because the screen doesn’t fully articulate. Maybe next time.
@@dominey Just an update. I did buy the X-s20 today. It was the last one Adaroma had in stock. I'm sure more will come in but I guess they are selling fast. Five additional orders came in for the camera after I bought it. Let's be honest, for most things and most people a camera like this more than handle what they need, granting some high end professional needs. Again, good video. Be safe.
Great overview. Thank you. I will agree, tripod mounted one should opt for IBIS turned off. Also many times the extra 2 stops is a software addition to any hardware stabilization, and if shooting wide landscape, you might find it crops in a bit to achieve the "extra 2 stops" I don't want it cropped in if I'm going for wide landscape of cityscape or the like. Is do you know if the 100SII is doing any cropping for the purpose of more stabilization?
Extra cropping for stabilisation only happens in video, if you enable EIS in the settings.
I'm a professional landscape photographer in Australia. Here is my take on stabilisation and tripod. If you're just doing a half second shot or a one second shot you can least stabilisation on its fine especially if yours is just set to shooting because the GFX has a pretty clunky shutter that drops down actually having stabilisation set to shooting only can be beneficial in certain situations, in other words there's a very mind new to amount of camera movement when the shutter comes up and down because of the large shutter. I don't use electronic shutter ever not a fan however if you're doing second exposure like Long Exposure and so forth then definitely turn it off.
@@aloi Good info thx!
@@nevvanclarke9225 Valid points. Thank you. Shutter shake is one of the reason remote triggering is important too. Pushing down on the shutter release can also move the camera.
(funny how "minute" (my-noot) got changed to "mind new to" in your comment)
Good stuff! Thank you
Perfect timing for me. A wonderful overview since I’m ordering the s II tomorrow. I have the original 50s. My work is a mix of editorial and architecture so I need the IBIS and other hand-held improvements as well as the tripod stability-work for architecture. Now if they would just lower the price of that 30mm T/s and make it widely available…
Indeed! Glad this was helpful 🙏
I could be wrong, but I think modern cameras know when they are on a tripod. I was out with my 50S II yesterday, used a tripod and never saw any issues. But my longest exposure was only a bit over 3 seconds, maybe that's not long enough to see the movement from the IBIS? I did use electronic shutter though, because I assume that the big shutter will shake the camera or IBIS mechanism when it slaps up and down.
Ibis becomes an issue on the tripod. If you have it in continuous setting and you're doing say a 15 or 20 second exposure if you're just doing a half second exposure or even a fast shutter speed on a tripod ibis won't do anything at all. It will be fine.
@@nevvanclarke9225 What I’m saying, guessing tbf, is that the camera detects when it’s on a tripod and makes sure the IBIS won’t interfere. As I said, I’ve used mine on a tripod, using 3-4 second exposures, without problems.
great 🎉
So my Niokn's are generally rated around 5-6 stops but I usually go about half that in reality. Now an 8-10 stop system (like some of the newest cameras) you could probably go with maybe 4-6 stops of realistic use). But it's never what the mfr says, or that's only been achieved in an "ideal" perfect scenario with a fast lens usually (like an f/1 or f/1.4 lens).
Most modern mirrorless cameras can do the focus speaking and zooming in to focus (at least ones made in the last 5 years) and this is one reason I moved to mirrorless as it made manual focusing in general much easier.
The thing about DR is that some people will go out and buy a new $3000+ body to gain maybe 1/2 or 1/4 of a stop in DR. Personally, as long as a camera could do something like 12 stops of DR, which is pretty much most cameras these days, I never really worried about this, partailly because while having a wide DR is usually good, I will usually bracket if the scene is more than about 5-6 stops difference for the best results. I've tried pulling out details and maintaining highlights in some shots where there was maybe 10-stops of DR or more, and for the most part it was fine, but sometimes shadow or dark areas would get muddy and it just never looked right to me, so I keep the bracketing when possible if it's more than about 5 stops.
That all being said, if these are still around $5k for a100MP MF camera in a few years, i could see picking one up and maybe a wide angle lens or two for landscape (and keeping my FF system more for travel and other tasks, including landscape) but starting to work my way into the MF format perhaps (I'd probably still keep one of my 24MP FF bodies and a few lenses around strictly for travel though as I don't really view the 100MP MF systems as "travel" cameras necessarily, although they can probably used as such, but I feel that the high ISO noise penalty may be too uch and where 24-30 MP FF and even ASPC, sensors currently really shine).
My guess is that with the aggressive body pricing, once they get you into the system with a body like that, they know you'll probably buy some lenses (the same as what most mfrs are doing in general, although the FF bodies are probably still on the higher side and the MF are almost a bargain in comparison) so my guess is that is their hope is that they may be cheap enough too that you might upgrade every few years, whereas some may buy a higher-end FF And not upgrade for 5-10 years.
I know a lady that has a Canon R5 with no strap. Recently getting out of her car she dropped it face down on the concrete garage floor. Bent and broke the filter but the lens was okay after the dealer was able to get the filter off. My question remains a mystery as to whether a UV filter helps pictures taken with a modern digital camera? I like the idea of a sensor protector if the camera has the space for one. Maybe not all brands and models?
Great comment. I should have mentioned bracketing exposures, for yes, a smidge more dynamic range may be desirable for some people shooting single, 16-bit images, but bracketed…? May not matter that much.
Thanks for a great review. I have a mark i and will wait until Christmas when I hope Fuji will put the mark ii on sale. At least I hope they will. I agree that none of the features by themselves are compelling, but taken together make it reasonable to upgrade and then treat the mark I as a backup.
I have some questions about the Kase sensor UV filter. Does it physically touch the front of the sensor? If so, I wonder if either it or the lenses on the sensor's individual color sensors will be abraded over time due to relative movement when the dust removal vibration occurs. Unless it's screwed in place, some relative movement during the accelerations to dump dust seems to be inevitable. But I haven't seen one so I'm guessing.
Here's an unrelated question: did you ever review the GF 30mm tilt shift lens? I've only heard glowing reviews and yet the lens is not expected to be on the market for 6-12 months. That suggests to me that something unexpected was encountered prior to moving to production.
Best wishes to you!
Thanks so much. I’d love to review that tilt lens (always had a soft spot for those, in general) but no, I don’t have one. I’m also curious to see how the UV filter performs but that’ll take some time.
Great vlog really enjoy your videos , with the GFX I would move over to this system but for two major issues , No Sensor cover , on a £5000 pounds/dollar camera , I don't want to be cleaning a 5k sensor that's a no no for me ,Canon have resolved this issue and Nikon have followed suit , so I hope Fuji do the same , a simple sensor shield when changing lenses ,I notice you mention putting a filter in front of that sensor but i wondered how much was that and would you really want to put anything in front of a 100mp sensor ,so far I've had Not 1 dust spot on my canon in over 2 years the other issue is weight ,its still a bit too heavy to lug about being a landscape photographer ,so that's what keeping me away at the moment, I'm sure they will fix this and then ill move in a heart beat , please keep up the vlogs Tom I made a few adjustments to my own canon thanks to your previous vlogs thanks again .
Yes, the lack of a sensor cover is a problem. Hoping Fuji can implement something that doesn’t infringe on Canon’s curtain patent. One of the main things I miss about shooting landscapes with the R5.
Just to note on this: I have a Fuji GFX 100s since its launch, and it’s the first and only camera that I’ve never had a single dust spot on the sensor. I had to constantly clean my many previous including the Fuji GFX 50r, Canon 5d series cameras and Fuji XT2 and many others before. I don’t know why this is the case as there is no sensor cover as you clearly know. I got so used to cleaning camera sensors myself that I’m not bothered even if one did show up now. I used to always send my cameras away for sensor cleaning till I realised how easy it is to do.
@@garbhanmyles Interesting - thanks for sharing.
Interested to know...I am going to buy this new Fuji ii s...have a bunch of L series Canon lenses...do you have any experience with that and your opinions? Thoughts?
Coverage depends on the lens, there is a spreadsheet that you can find if you Google 'GFX adapted lens coverage dpreview'
There is also a very useful thread on fredmiranda about using adapted lenses on GFX, in the Fuji section.
I have the GFX 50s and a large complete Canon system. So I’ve been trying the EF Canon lenses on the GFX. Many of the lenses vignette badly. Some of that can be fixed in editing but some is so severe you’ll end up having to crop it out. Such is the case with the EF 50 1.2. So far the 35mm 1.4 is excellent as is the 24mm Tilt Shift and the 90mm Tilt/Shift. The 45mm Tilt Shift vignettes too much. The 16-35 2.8 vignettes some. My 70-200 and 100 macro are both RF so they will not adapt to the GFX. The most surprising lens that worked very well on the GFX is the 40mm pancake lens. I never used it much on the Canon but it’s really nice on the Fuji. Best of luck.
@@user-cd4jg7eb1x Thanks so much for your input and advice much appreciated. Including a link to a vid of some of my work...your thoughts on this would be helpful too. Best, Mike Arnspiger ua-cam.com/video/kby40YucNgQ/v-deo.htmlsi=AVswzoDVjsmzMwXX
I just bought the 100s ii as my entrance into Fuji medium format. I love a deal, so the original 100s was very tempting. However, I have an 8-year-old that I go on adventures with. We're staying in the high country of Yosemite next week. What does that mean? I'll be shooting handheld. I also love to walk around and shoot Robert Adams-esque stuff. Again, no tripod. One day in and I'm thinking this will be a great camera. I'm coming from Mamiya 7, Pentax 67, Panasonic S1, and Leicas.
That sounds amazing! I took my kids to Yosemite when they were about that age, and they’re some of my favorite family photos. The new IBIS and autofocus systems will def be great for that.
If landscape is your thing there’s no need for upgrading here. .
Composing with a viewfinder is more my tempo so that new spec does add some value.
Currently shoot Sony for my pro and client work..but would love to get into MF in the future and this 100SII is so nice!.....its crazy the fact that Sony provides these sensors to Fuji and others like Nikon as well..but to have a MF sensor that you sell to Fuji..is good for business on Sonys part..but as a Sony shooter I would not mind staying in the Sony eco system and not have to go to Fuji for it..and for them to have a MF body in the future would be amazing..imagine the Sony AF and processing performance in a MF body..quicker than Fuji in that sense with their AF etc etc..but I guess Sony made a deal with Fuji to not step on their toes per say and get into the MF category and only sell them the sensors..lol but I would love to see what Sony comes up with if they actually made a MF camera..
Yeah, it's wild to me that they've been selling sensors to Fuji for YEARS now and there's no indication that they have any intention of making their own MF cameras. I've read from a lot of other Sony FF shooters that they'd love a Sony MF camera, even if that means having to buy new lenses. So weird that Sony aren't picking up on this. I mean, if it's worth financially for Fuji, it must be worth it for Sony who have a MUCH larger market share.
@@rickbiessman6084 Yes..exactly!...I guess for Sony the next "progression" in terms of new camera tech..bc I think image quality wise all the brands have reached the peak point and now its just all leveled as far as that goes..yes there is high megapixels..now since Sony has the global shutter tech in their line up with the A9III..the next big evolution is the "curved sensor"..and I think Sony is definitely working on that!..and who ever launches the first "curved sensor" will be a game changer for sure!..better low light performance, lighter lenses, maybe more compact..less glass inside etc etc.. that would awesome when that arrives!..lol
Great comment - thanks!
Honest video. But when you have a 5x7 large format camera with a 5x7 screen glass, you feel that your GFX display is poorly small. So what are the solutions for a bigger screen ?
Have a look at the external monitors that the videographers use
@@electricsheep1963 thank you
External HDMI monitor would work. If all you need is the screen you could get a general one, not an expensive one that records like the Atomos Ninja. Colors are sometimes a bit off with these monitors, but if you just need a bigger screen to compose with, that’ll do it.
@@dominey thank you
I was about to keep the 100s one month ago, then they announced the mark II, so I returned it and waited to purchase the new version. This was meant to be my landscape/architectural camera, while my Sony A7R5 should be the hybrid camera for movies, portraits and outdoor general shooting. Before getting the first GFX100s, I tried the Nikon Z8, which, in my opinion, is the most overestimated camera in the last decade. Just to limit the comparison (vs. Fuji) to a line: Nikon is heavier (!), bigger (!), its AF system in low light conditions is worse than the GFX 100s (mark I !!!), and the results when shooting in low light conditions are terrible (not because of the noise, but because of the horrible exposure resulting). Anyway, the real issue with the Mark I was the AF system, which was not reliable when shooting people, especially if they were moving. The lack of 4k videos was also annoying, but not really relevant in my case. After extended sessions with both, A7R5 and GFX100s I/II, my conclusions are that Fuji is *almost* the same, even with moving subjects. Trying to figure out the real accuracy of both systems, I realized that the most reliable lenses on Sony are the 135mm f 1.8 and the 50mm f 1.2: they are the only lenses that allow the AF system to correctly focus on subjects' eyes. The 14mm f 1.8, Sigma 85mm f 1.4 DG DN Art, and the 35mm f 1.4 give different results: from never ever 100% correctly focusing on the eye, to rarely doing so. Anyway, I also realized that the superfast Sony's AF system is often misleading since it gives you the green light while it is not really focused. Bottom line: Sony's AF is faster, but not always accurate. In real-world shooting, you will see that GFX 100s Mark II is slower and less accurate than A7R5, but not as much as it looks. About 100s Mark I / Mark II differences, I cannot see any real benefit from switching to the newer version just for landscape photography, and, as I said, I was already about to keep the Mark I to use it this way. The real deal-breaker is the new AF system for portraits and moving subjects. About film simulations: you don't need to shoot in .jpg to benefit from them, since (as you said) it is the way LRC can automatically export your raw file, once you convert it into .jpg. And this is one of the most relevant parts: the predefined Sony profiles are terrible: this, plus the wider dynamic range with Fuji, determines uncomparable artistic results, that you can achieve with less effort.
How much better is the 100sii autofocus?
@@TheShreyas56 a lot better: now you have AI (like Sony), many more subjects, and it is faster. The tracking has been improved, and it does a great job in noticing people, heads, eyes, and even other subjects. The main issues (compared with Sony) are: the lack of left/right eye selection, the lack of subject memory, and switching between subjects in the same frame. It is still slower, so if the subject is approaching (or leaving), you will notice that focusing is hard (if not impossible). Horizontal/vertical movements are handled great. Anyway, before judging, one should carefully check and evaluate the results at full resolution: as I said, Sony often gives you a green light even if it's not really focused.
@@egonproteon7926 impressive. Sounds like if tracking subjects an upgrade might be worth it
@@TheShreyas56 I did think so. I can add that I would even leave the Sony, if only... Fuji could be used with the same gimbal (Weebill 3s), and it had a few more lenses, especially faster lenses.
Thanks for the thorough comment. Appreciate it!
So Todd, are you selling your original 100S.....could be interested, just sayin'.....
I probably will once I’ve had more time to test and compare. So yes, if interested hit me up. My email is in the vid description.
The reason camera equipment is discounted is the Japanese Yen is falling rapidly in relation to everything else that's why Nikon is moving their factories back to Japan because the Thai Baht is too expensive.
Interesting, thanks
It was recently stated that a UV or UV haze filter does not help a digital camera only film, like it compensates, so use just a clear glass protective filter. We used to buy them to help protect the lens element and coatings. Opinions?
UV filters are a waste of $$. The front element is wildly strong and putting a cheap piece of glass in front of it could actually cause the front element to be damaged. For instance if the UV breaks and hits the front element (glass on glass)
Remember the Mohs Hardness Scale. And you can watch Tony N bash a crab claw into a 50mm prime and nothing happens to the lens.
@@RiceCake-ep9gu I was carrying my GFX 100S with the GF 35-100 lens on the camera in a wooded area when I tripped and the tip of the end of a dead cottonwood branch struck the front element of my lens. I wasn't walking far and didn't put the lens cover on. Dumb move. The glass wasn't damaged but the branch put two small marks in the lens coating. The marks are small enough that they don't affect the image quality, but I wouldn't be cavalier about the front element of my lenses.
@@RiceCake-ep9gu True, and I don't worry about the front elements of my lenses too much, but the sensor? On a really expensive full frame or medium format camera, I understand the thought of wanting to protect the sensor. I have two full frame cameras. One of them leaves the shutter open when you turn it off, the other one can close it for dust protection. When I change lenses, I'm equally paranoid regardless of which one it is :D
I know what you mean. And those coatings can be prohibitively expensive to repair. Happened to one of my RF lenses and it wasn’t worth it. Resale value immediately went down as well. So, either repair and eventually sell at a loss, or offer it as is with scratches and also sell at a big loss. Sucks either way.
Brand new Mark I currently available for £3499. That's £2000 off list price.
Nice deal 👍
Come on Fuji. This could've been a GFX 50R 2.
Those clip in filters make autofocus a lot harder and less. I could focus to infinity without it and when I focus on the same spot, it'll be 15ft... not worth it
Interesting. Thanks for letting me know. I’ll have to test that out. If only every mirrorless camera had a drop down curtain, like Canon (but they patented it, grrrrr)