I realized I didn’t explain the “Mirrored Aperture Markings” clearly. I’m referring to the scale at the top of the lens that has the apertures marked on both sides. I. I. I I. | Ex. ( 8 5.6 4 5.6 8 The way to measure the focus range is by reading the ft (or meter) measurement in between the corresponding aperture! Hope this makes sense :) Comment any questions!
Sunny 16 + zone focusing = an amazing combo for fast shots using film. As summer is approaching I would to shoot some portraits and get to use my aperture of 1.4 some more. Any tips for lower/larger apertures moving away from the sunny 16 rule?
@@ryanmajoor Usually the sunny 16 gives you a combination of SS and AP for EV=1, which would be 1/ISO + f/16. Hence, if you are going to go for wide-open APs like f/1.4, you just turn down corresponding stops for SS. However, your (old) camera might not have quick enough SS to keep you from overexposing. So you need a filter called Neutral Density (ND filters) which works like sunglasses for your camera. By reducing the amount of light going into the lens, you can shoot with big AP now.
zone focusing is easier if you set the focus to say 3m on a 35mm lens at say f16. This means everything from 1.4m (5ft) to infinity is in acceptable focus. If you set it to 3m and f11 its around 6ft to infinity and at f8 around 7-22ft. There are plenty of hyperfocal charts out there for people to download to see what happens to different lenses and different focal lengths when setting the lens at 3m. I would also say for street photography if possible shoot at at least 1/250 sec especially if people are moving :)
@@paulchoccyt1303 Ideally for me at least everything in manual so set the aperture and shutter speed manually. Depending on the light and what iso/asa I'd take a meter reading and try and set f/16 and 1/250 or use the sunny 16 rule. There are loads of free hyperfocal apps which will allow you to put in your settings and they'll show you the distance of acceptable focus.
I used to zone focus when shooting weddings back in the early and late 1970's. I used both a Mamiya TLR & a Hassleblad, neither one of which are fast focusing cameras. You can also pre-focus at a given distance (say 10'), then shoot when the subject is within that distance (give or take a foot). When you shoot with a prime lens you learn to judge distances based on how large the subject is in the viewfinder. It just takes a little practice. I still use these methods today when shooting on the street.
I’ve got a Rollei 35s which is an absolutely amazing street photography camera. Zone focusing is the only focus you have on that. Owning that camera taught me to zone focus like a champ.
@@filmbyhari very cool! I added a 3d-printed light-meter cover to mine that someone on etsy sells, and it's a good idea to try to get one of these if you dont want to keep using wien cells in it. shop.criscam.com/collections/mercury-battery-adapters/products/mr-9-mercury-battery-adapter - this is assuming the light meter in your camera works .. a lot of then no longer work
A old press photographer taught me have the camera set to infinity if its a short throw lens or half way to infinity if its a long throw lens focus i use a yashica electro m5 now for street his advice has never let me down
Along with Zone focusing, i also started using a technique that i picked up watching Kai W review of the leica m10d. you reset back to infinity and start focusing from that. it helps out in situations where i cant be at f8 (taking the subway mainly) and i may miss my subject if i cant get into range.
BRUH this is such a help. I just got a Minolta srt100 and im on my 8th roll of film now. It was annoying me so much that once I scan my negatives MOSTLY ALL MY PICS were out of focus. Going to try these tips out! THANKS !
This is a great tip, especially if using a manual rangefinder without a light meter. I reckon that if I sit at F11 I can use sunny 16 and be able to get shots very quickly. I think with a 400 black and white film I can just jump between 1/250 and 1/500 as required and be roughly there in London. The latitude of B&W negative film will do the rest.
Two questions: 1) if you shoot f8-f16 does it even make a difference where you set the manual focus or is the aperture setting the scale? 2) any tips for low light?
correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this technique works better on film than digital. It's due to the greater thickness of film compared to the digital sensor's filter. The result is film is more tolerant to focus mistakes while on digital, any mistake will be visible.
KingJypes A small point: the scale around the focussing index mark is the "depth-of-field scale". Hyperfocal focussing is to set the infinity mark against the far end of the depth-of-field scale for the aperture you are using, to get sharpness from infinity to the distance shown at the close end, to get the maximum depth-of-field without wasting anything. Some earlier - ostensibly amateur - cameras had zone focussing as standard: the focussing scale usually has several markings showing three icons for portrait, groups, and landscape for the appropriate distances. I was trained in the old school way, part of it was camera operation in the field. Imaging walking along, without stopping or looking: rewind a roll, take it out, put a new one in, load and wind to first frame, then set shutter speed to 1/125s, aperture to f/8, focussing to 15'. Today there's probably less of a need to develop this skill but it might be worth thinking about.
I zone focus all the time. Best way to do it. I use a 28mm f2.8 Vivitar lens on my canon F1, and the range for focus is about 2ft-10ft at f16. Something fun to try (But dangerous) is to zone focus with the lens wide open.
Sami Nasufovski you have such a thin plain of focus at f2.8 you have to hit the shutter right when the person is that exact distance from you. So dangerous if you’re shoring film and not so much if you’re shooting digital on a burst mode
yooo! i was one of the people who’s comment you added to this video, i always knew about zone focusing but i feel like most people don’t explain it as well as you did here, so thank you man!
Very cool - I’ve never used this technique on SLRs, but I LOVE using zone focus cameras like the Lomo LC-A and Olympus XA2 for street photography. (I uploaded an LC-A video earlier this month and hope to have an XA2 video on YT soon). Thanks for showing how to apply this technique to SLRs and rangefinders, too!
My choice of street camera is my Kodak Retina SII or Retinette II - both are 45mm focal length, both have depth of field indicators on the lens - makes zone focusing a breeze.
😯 I was wondering how you did it so quickly, I'm horrible at manual focusing at well. I'm new to street photography using my 35mm Pentax, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Thank you for sharing these videos.
The e-mount autofocus full frame Zeiss Batis series has a digital focus distance scale which is very useful with manual focus and zone focusing. Also the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 and the forthcoming manual focus full frame Z mount Nikon 58mm f/0.95 Noct have digital focus distance scale.
Learned this technique on my tiny Minox 35 ml, it's what it relied on and boy was that Color Minotar lens sharp!! I used to shoot Orwo Chrome 80 ASA , slide film .
Bruh, Been reading about zone focus forever and I got it in under 5 minutes just watching this vid. Awesome, I just scored 2 canon f1s for cheaps and just excited to go out and shoot.
Great video. Other than minor hiccup explaining the dual aperture markings on the focal scale. But that's readily available info. The rest is the good stuff and it's not everywhere. I constantly rely on this around NYC. Like.. there are easily 200 people for the camera to choose between at any given moment. And they're all moving. AF requires shared attention between subject and camera for you - which means missing those fast moments AND your subject is more likely to spot you. You're gonna have to fiddle with spot focus because anything else will choose the wrong subject half the time. All this adds up to zone focusing being the way. Nothing else lets you ignore all but composition and story- which is the most powerful way to shoot street in a proper city, IMHO.
I always like to shoot with a wide aperture but I should really practice this since I do allot of street photography, I've just grown so accustomed to auto focus witch can mess up my shots allot. 👌👌 Great stuff man.
Please help me. I have been passed down my grandfather’s Canon canonet QL17 GIII and want to use it for street photography. The lens has a 40mm focal length and has the markings for distance on the focus ring in feet and meters. The lens DOES NOT have a hyperfocal distance graph to line up with however. How do I use zone focusing with this in mind? I don’t know how far to turn the focus ring depending on distance and do not want to use the viewfinder as it can lose the decisive moment. Please please please let me know your step by step in depth answer to this problem as if you were a beginner with no knowledge at all. Thank you so much for your time and assistance and I wish you the best day!
This is why I love my little Minox 35 GT. It's really tiny, the shutter is quieter than a Leica, the lens is excellent and it has huge focusing zones! Very nice camera for street photography. Although a Leica is obviously much more classy :-)
Can someone please help me!! I totally understand what he's saying, but how does this factor into shutter speed? How do I tell wether to use 1/300 or 1/4 of a second with a rangefinder camera
I think it is obsolete terminology in modern high pixel density sensor. The allowed depth of field zone range is much narrower than that in the film days. E.g, pixel peeper has a perceived sharpness threshold that anything below that is out of focus thus the depth of field is defined by the threshold. Nowadays I think viewing at 100% on a 200-300dpi screen at arm's length is a pretty common practice. If you use a 28mm @F8 focused at 5m, the depth of field is not going to cover from 2.3m til infinity the common hyperfocal calculator gives you.
What film camera can i get. Ive been looking at the Pentax K1000, Canon AE-1, Olympus OM-10, Contax 139 Quarts and all of them seem to have the same price of around 100$ used. Do you have any other recommendations
Do you shoot from the hip a lot then as well? For example, in that last shot, of the lady and her (assumedly) child standing under their umbrella? Also, great video, man! Never stop! #Minoltagangforlife
@@EnnesX Following that logic, how does the lens quality aid with arrangement or composition of your image? How would a 50mm f1.4 Nikkor lens provide better bokeh than a Nikon 18-55mm shot at 50mm?
Nice video, shallow depth of field ( out of focus backgrounds ) is not "bokeh" it's out of focus backgrounds, bokeh is the perceived aesthetic quality of the out of focus background. Great photo's man!
The maths behind stays the same with or without the distance scale on the lens. You can get some apps to calculate the depth of field if you don’t have the markings.
What if i put the focus on infinity and aperture to f8 or f5.6 or maybe bigger opening if it's darker outside? I'm interested what you think about focusing on infinity? When there is such a possibility when it is best to use it! I want to use old zone focusing cameras such as Agfa Siletti etc. Maybe somebody can help me, thank you!
I realized I didn’t explain the “Mirrored Aperture Markings” clearly. I’m referring to the scale at the top of the lens that has the apertures marked on both sides.
I. I. I I. |
Ex. ( 8 5.6 4 5.6 8
The way to measure the focus range is by reading the ft (or meter) measurement in between the corresponding aperture! Hope this makes sense :) Comment any questions!
Sunny 16 + zone focusing = an amazing combo for fast shots using film.
As summer is approaching I would to shoot some portraits and get to use my aperture of 1.4 some more. Any tips for lower/larger apertures moving away from the sunny 16 rule?
@@ryanmajoor Usually the sunny 16 gives you a combination of SS and AP for EV=1, which would be 1/ISO + f/16. Hence, if you are going to go for wide-open APs like f/1.4, you just turn down corresponding stops for SS. However, your (old) camera might not have quick enough SS to keep you from overexposing. So you need a filter called Neutral Density (ND filters) which works like sunglasses for your camera. By reducing the amount of light going into the lens, you can shoot with big AP now.
@kingjvpes I've just started film photography after shooting digital for 4 years. I'm gonna try this with my 28mm lens on my praktica mtl nova B slr
great video ..ty....
question: do you have a preferred place to where you get your vintage cameras repaired?
Thank.you
zone focusing is easier if you set the focus to say 3m on a 35mm lens at say f16. This means everything from 1.4m (5ft) to infinity is in acceptable focus. If you set it to 3m and f11 its around 6ft to infinity and at f8 around 7-22ft. There are plenty of hyperfocal charts out there for people to download to see what happens to different lenses and different focal lengths when setting the lens at 3m. I would also say for street photography if possible shoot at at least 1/250 sec especially if people are moving :)
Re the 1/250 speed.... would it bes best to set that manually or let the AF select the shutter speed?
@@paulchoccyt1303 Ideally for me at least everything in manual so set the aperture and shutter speed manually. Depending on the light and what iso/asa I'd take a meter reading and try and set f/16 and 1/250 or use the sunny 16 rule. There are loads of free hyperfocal apps which will allow you to put in your settings and they'll show you the distance of acceptable focus.
And all this with f8 or f16? What about iso? 4000? 👌
I used to zone focus when shooting weddings back in the early and late 1970's. I used both a Mamiya TLR & a Hassleblad, neither one of which are fast focusing cameras. You can also pre-focus at a given distance (say 10'), then shoot when the subject is within that distance (give or take a foot). When you shoot with a prime lens you learn to judge distances based on how large the subject is in the viewfinder. It just takes a little practice. I still use these methods today when shooting on the street.
Ahhhh! J DUB! That’s crazy! I can’t imagine how good your timing must’ve been pre focused 10 feet and waiting for them to get into focus!
Super informative, dude. For stealthy street photography, this seems like a must.
It’s wild how much better you’ve gotten since you first started posting photography videos on UA-cam! So excited for your growth brotha. Keep it up!
The sound quality in this video is so pleasing omg
I’ve got a Rollei 35s which is an absolutely amazing street photography camera. Zone focusing is the only focus you have on that. Owning that camera taught me to zone focus like a champ.
I have the 35 and I love that camera.
I just bought one today and will need to quickly learn zone focusing :-)
@@filmbyhari oh, you're going to love the Rollei .. the pictures it delivers for such a tiny camera are amazing!
@@MsLoribee Thanks. I just got mine and it looks so cool (and tiny)! Cant wait for the weekend to use it :-)
@@filmbyhari very cool! I added a 3d-printed light-meter cover to mine that someone on etsy sells, and it's a good idea to try to get one of these if you dont want to keep using wien cells in it. shop.criscam.com/collections/mercury-battery-adapters/products/mr-9-mercury-battery-adapter - this is assuming the light meter in your camera works .. a lot of then no longer work
A old press photographer taught me have the camera set to infinity if its a short throw lens or half way to infinity if its a long throw lens focus i use a yashica electro m5 now for street his advice has never let me down
Along with Zone focusing, i also started using a technique that i picked up watching Kai W review of the leica m10d. you reset back to infinity and start focusing from that. it helps out in situations where i cant be at f8 (taking the subway mainly) and i may miss my subject if i cant get into range.
I always thought the numbers on my prime lenses were for not to forget what numbers look like. Great video!
BRUH this is such a help. I just got a Minolta srt100 and im on my 8th roll of film now. It was annoying me so much that once I scan my negatives MOSTLY ALL MY PICS were out of focus. Going to try these tips out! THANKS !
This is a great tip, especially if using a manual rangefinder without a light meter. I reckon that if I sit at F11 I can use sunny 16 and be able to get shots very quickly. I think with a 400 black and white film I can just jump between 1/250 and 1/500 as required and be roughly there in London. The latitude of B&W negative film will do the rest.
Two questions: 1) if you shoot f8-f16 does it even make a difference where you set the manual focus or is the aperture setting the scale? 2) any tips for low light?
Amazing video, man. Ive been curious on how you get those shots but it makes sense now.
Zone focusing is an elegant name of how to turn a 5,000 USD camera into a point and shot. Good video :)
correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this technique works better on film than digital. It's due to the greater thickness of film compared to the digital sensor's filter. The result is film is more tolerant to focus mistakes while on digital, any mistake will be visible.
KingJypes A small point: the scale around the focussing index mark is the "depth-of-field scale". Hyperfocal focussing is to set the infinity mark against the far end of the depth-of-field scale for the aperture you are using, to get sharpness from infinity to the distance shown at the close end, to get the maximum depth-of-field without wasting anything.
Some earlier - ostensibly amateur - cameras had zone focussing as standard: the focussing scale usually has several markings showing three icons for portrait, groups, and landscape for the appropriate distances.
I was trained in the old school way, part of it was camera operation in the field. Imaging walking along, without stopping or looking: rewind a roll, take it out, put a new one in, load and wind to first frame, then set shutter speed to 1/125s, aperture to f/8, focussing to 15'. Today there's probably less of a need to develop this skill but it might be worth thinking about.
I zone focus all the time. Best way to do it. I use a 28mm f2.8 Vivitar lens on my canon F1, and the range for focus is about 2ft-10ft at f16.
Something fun to try (But dangerous) is to zone focus with the lens wide open.
Why is it dangerous?
Sami Nasufovski you have such a thin plain of focus at f2.8 you have to hit the shutter right when the person is that exact distance from you. So dangerous if you’re shoring film and not so much if you’re shooting digital on a burst mode
Great video. It's the first time an explanation of the focus numbers on the lens made sense to me.
this is so helping me thank you for the content
Outstanding update. Cannot wait to execute this. Thanks for sharing KJ.
yooo! i was one of the people who’s comment you added to this video, i always knew about zone focusing but i feel like most people don’t explain it as well as you did here, so thank you man!
Chris Gutierrez haha thank you Chris 🙏🏽🙏🏽
Very cool - I’ve never used this technique on SLRs, but I LOVE using zone focus cameras like the Lomo LC-A and Olympus XA2 for street photography. (I uploaded an LC-A video earlier this month and hope to have an XA2 video on YT soon). Thanks for showing how to apply this technique to SLRs and rangefinders, too!
My choice of street camera is my Kodak Retina SII or Retinette II - both are 45mm focal length, both have depth of field indicators on the lens - makes zone focusing a breeze.
😯 I was wondering how you did it so quickly, I'm horrible at manual focusing at well. I'm new to street photography using my 35mm Pentax, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Thank you for sharing these videos.
The e-mount autofocus full frame Zeiss Batis series has a digital focus distance scale which is very useful with manual focus and zone focusing.
Also the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 and the forthcoming manual focus full frame Z mount Nikon 58mm f/0.95 Noct have digital focus distance scale.
Another rad video!. Keep up the good work KJ!! Zone focusing changed my life
Learned this technique on my tiny Minox 35 ml, it's what it relied on and boy was that Color Minotar lens sharp!! I used to shoot Orwo Chrome 80 ASA , slide film .
Make a video zone focusing with the Canonet
I know this is an old video, but wondering where you got the square hood for your Voigt 35mm lens. Looks very cool.
Bruh, Been reading about zone focus forever and I got it in under 5 minutes just watching this vid. Awesome, I just scored 2 canon f1s for cheaps and just excited to go out and shoot.
All I have is a DSLR size SLR.
Btw, do you just use Sunny 16 for metering?
Great video. Other than minor hiccup explaining the dual aperture markings on the focal scale. But that's readily available info. The rest is the good stuff and it's not everywhere.
I constantly rely on this around NYC. Like.. there are easily 200 people for the camera to choose between at any given moment. And they're all moving. AF requires shared attention between subject and camera for you - which means missing those fast moments AND your subject is more likely to spot you. You're gonna have to fiddle with spot focus because anything else will choose the wrong subject half the time.
All this adds up to zone focusing being the way. Nothing else lets you ignore all but composition and story- which is the most powerful way to shoot street in a proper city, IMHO.
I always like to shoot with a wide aperture but I should really practice this since I do allot of street photography, I've just grown so accustomed to auto focus witch can mess up my shots allot. 👌👌 Great stuff man.
Cool refresher course for me.
Please help me. I have been passed down my grandfather’s Canon canonet QL17 GIII and want to use it for street photography. The lens has a 40mm focal length and has the markings for distance on the focus ring in feet and meters. The lens DOES NOT have a hyperfocal distance graph to line up with however. How do I use zone focusing with this in mind? I don’t know how far to turn the focus ring depending on distance and do not want to use the viewfinder as it can lose the decisive moment. Please please please let me know your step by step in depth answer to this problem as if you were a beginner with no knowledge at all. Thank you so much for your time and assistance and I wish you the best day!
Great video mate, very informative, keep it up
great bit of information ,will come in handy if i can remember it at the time .
Exellent sharing!!! BTW, I love the square hood you put on your voigt 35/2.5. Where did you buy it? Can you please give me the link. Many thanks!
This is why I love my little Minox 35 GT. It's really tiny, the shutter is quieter than a Leica, the lens is excellent and it has huge focusing zones! Very nice camera for street photography. Although a Leica is obviously much more classy :-)
I zone focus more often with my SLR camera and 35mm lens.
When I am thinking it's not really in focus, the zone focus saves my ass
Kai Man Wong in the wild. Great topic on the Zone focusing, love it
Thank you for excellent and helpful information!
more important is to not have fun, most importantly is to make sure the shot is in clear, sharp, focus.
having fun comes in about maybe 4 or 5, IMO.
Seems like a pretty good idea do you know if it works on a DSLR with Canon lens?
My 18-135mm IS STM lens doesn't have aperture markings or a hyperfocal distance scale, how do I set zone focusing? Do I need to get a prime lens?
Great video. I will try zone focusing. However, will it be the same for crop size sensor? Want to test on digital first. Thx
But with depth of field doest you need to "sunny 16" settings like the iso and shutter speed?
That Kai meme lol
Can someone please help me!!
I totally understand what he's saying, but how does this factor into shutter speed? How do I tell wether to use 1/300 or 1/4 of a second with a rangefinder camera
Do you use a higher iso film to avoid camera shake from slower shutter speeds?
i use rollei 35t, zone focus is the bomb
This was a great video!! Thankyou 😊
Great info, I do this myself. Usually set to f8 and 10 ft (I don’t get as close as you quite yet).
Doin' The Pigeon 40mm usually
Doin' The Pigeon I believe it is 😎
Haha I was thinking the same thing. I was like is this guy even focusing!
TX for the upload. Really helpful.
What aperture is good for night photography?
What kind of scanner do you use? Can you do a video on this topic?
This is an awesome tip I needed! Thanx a lot!
Solid video my man, I use scale focusing on my M3 constantly
Hope you can make a video about taking candid street portraits without being chased around by angry pedestrians lmao! Your portraits are amazing! 👏🙏
Thank u😀 Will try this😀
Wow! Cool man ... I'll try that soon. Thank for the tip! ✌🤘
I think it is obsolete terminology in modern high pixel density sensor. The allowed depth of field zone range is much narrower than that in the film days. E.g, pixel peeper has a perceived sharpness threshold that anything below that is out of focus thus the depth of field is defined by the threshold. Nowadays I think viewing at 100% on a 200-300dpi screen at arm's length is a pretty common practice. If you use a 28mm @F8 focused at 5m, the depth of field is not going to cover from 2.3m til infinity the common hyperfocal calculator gives you.
wait were you in SF in that clip of you shaking the guys hand in the yellow jacket?
This is helpful af
I recently picked up a late 80's Nikon SLR and 28-85 lens...with AUTOFOCUS!!
What about shutter speed? No one mentions that. Am I missing something?
What film camera can i get. Ive been looking at the Pentax K1000, Canon AE-1, Olympus OM-10, Contax 139 Quarts and all of them seem to have the same price of around 100$ used. Do you have any other recommendations
Also what is a good nikon film camera. They look interesting
if i set my lens to infinity? will it focus everything from 3 to far far away?
Can you do reviews of your vintage lenses?
Do you shoot from the hip a lot then as well? For example, in that last shot, of the lady and her (assumedly) child standing under their umbrella? Also, great video, man! Never stop! #Minoltagangforlife
How would you know which way to line up the markings on the lens that tells u the in focus range ? Thanks
Keep in mind BOKEH is not simply a shallow depth of field, but is the QUALITY of the shapes within the out of focus areas 😎
@@EnnesX Following that logic, how does the lens quality aid with arrangement or composition of your image? How would a 50mm f1.4 Nikkor lens provide better bokeh than a Nikon 18-55mm shot at 50mm?
Great video!
how would I do this on a canon eos rebel g ,which lens do not have it on the lens? 35mm
Nice video, shallow depth of field ( out of focus backgrounds ) is not "bokeh" it's out of focus backgrounds, bokeh is the perceived aesthetic quality of the out of focus background. Great photo's man!
like always nice video.Thank you so much. That helps me a lot✌
Hi King, if I use a 40mm lens with no aperture markings at all, can I still use the zone focusing technique?
The maths behind stays the same with or without the distance scale on the lens. You can get some apps to calculate the depth of field if you don’t have the markings.
Just outta curiosity, I wonder if these people in the video let you put up their faces on UA-cam.
spit my coffee when you took that pic on the guy with the yellow jacket
Thanks a lot
I tried this technique on my old communist-german manual range finder. Haven´t got them developed yet. Pretty excited on how they´re gonna turn out.
...cool sample...
You just changed my game lol
Great video 😱
Good video man
How do you make sure it is a proper exposer?
I am still confused on zone focusing... I feel once the numbers start getting talked about - I lose it.
Me too 🤦♀️
@@gemmawilliams3369 Me 3
Nice,I just recently discovered the markings there on the lens. Kind of an underrated tool, But nice and short video.
This was actually cool video despite it's lenght
What if i put the focus on infinity and aperture to f8 or f5.6 or maybe bigger opening if it's darker outside? I'm interested what you think about focusing on infinity? When there is such a possibility when it is best to use it! I want to use old zone focusing cameras such as Agfa Siletti etc. Maybe somebody can help me, thank you!
R K setting to infinity at f8 will give you at least 10 ft - ♾ in focus. I think, not 100% sure depends on your lens!
@@KingJvpes Thanks!
3:30 wich camera is this one?
♥️
🙌🙌🙌🙌
I thought you were using an autofocus camera. Great video!
the same minolta lens that i have!
Maybe I mentioned this before but I regret selling my goPro - cuz I could have made some POV shooting vids like yours :/
camera?
So you read my comment! heheh
Now you go ;)