Hi Nandosanabria. When I got my boat secondhand already the topf of the mast had moved a little down inside the bottom section. Like you I was never going to take it apart so I just got the biggest pop rivets I could and put three into the sleeved section. You may have to borrow a heavy duty pop rivet gun to do this as your general purpose gun has not got enough leverage. I sail my boat very aggressively, and after 5 years of sailing it has not moved. Good sailing
Hi Boyd,...I often had issues with the lines getting tangled on the cleats. My boat came with two cleats on the front of the mast, so I removed those.. Yes the jib is slightly higher. The two small blocks do eliminate some tangling, but I have found the best way is to either just release the jib just as I am going into the wind That way the jib ropes are flogging madly and I pull then on really quick. The other way is to hang onto the jib rope as you tack and keep it tight. Then release it from the cleat and feed it through your hands, never allowing it to become slack. Its a bit of a pain, but better than getting the ropes hooked on the cleat and having to go and release it Where I sail I often have to turn inbetween waves, so its really important that the ropes dont get caught on a cleat.. I recon though, the first method is the best. Just release the jib when you are pointing straight into the wind and let everything go loose as you complete your tack. Its more of an issue in lighter winds when the ropes may not be flogging around as much. In this instance I would just try to keep the jib ropes tight and high up on the front of the mast so as not to foul any cleats. Hope this helps. Cheers. Geoff
That should work. I have increased the size of my jib further since this video. Just remember you need to be able to see under your jib, so that you don’t hit anyone. Have fun
Great info here. Thanks for sharing, Geoff. I've been following your videos for a while now. I'd love to see more video of you sailing with your new sails.
Hi Thomas. After removing the swivel attachment at the end of each arm (drill out the pop rivet first) its just a matter of taking off an inch at a time with a hacksaw. For me it was a matter of taking the boat down to the beach, taking off an inch, going for a short sail and doing a hard tack. It will be a little bit harder to turn the tiller. I sped things up a bit by just grabbing the tiller arm down from the joining bar, bit by bit, doing hard gybes and normal sterring, and gradually moving my hand down the arm, until it started to become stiff to turn the rudder. At this point I marked where my hand was on the rudder arm. Doing it this way you maybe able to just take off 5-6 Inches straight away. With normal steering you will not notice the shortened arm. Its just doing a really hard gybe that you will notice it. How much you take off with depend on the strength and length of your arm. I dont have a tape measure in inches, but just to give you some idea, I am 184cm tall, weight 90kg, and my rudder are is 380cm from the bolt in the rudder, to the top of the rudder arm (dont include the swivel. Now when I sit on the boat, my left buttock is directly over the rear beam. I have a piece of boat carpet there to soften things up a bit. The only other thing to take into account, is that you use the rudder joining bar to push down to lock your rudders and to lift release them. Shortening the arm will make both actions harder, especially the lifting. Good luck. Dont forget at the end of the adjustments, to put another poprivet into the swivel. I forgot and mine came out half way down the face of a wave as I was surfing.
Hi again Boyd. I note that you are talking about jibing. I rarely do this because of the tendency of flipping the boat as the sail comes around. The same principals apply though. In fact in jibing, i f I let the lines go loose when I am directly downwind, the lines will rarely catch on a cleat. However i recon in a jibe I would be more inclined to hang onto the jib lines and try to peep then tight and high up on the mast. Because the mast rotates so much its almost impossible to have cleats on you mast in a position where they will not catch. However in strong winds I recon the best option in either a jibe or a tack is to let them go really quickly and let them flog madly. I usually find that if they do get caught, if the lines are loose, they will release from the cleat of their own accord
Geoff Thank you very much for sharing your ideas!! It's been very illuminating. For some reason our mast got broken... the upper part got inside the lower mast and every time we use it the sail is lower... we are getting a new mast but if you have any idea of how to prevent this please share it with me.... don't know why that happened, maybe we tighten the sails to hard... but that shouldn't happen anyway.... We have the Wave in a club and never take it out so we don't need to disarm it.... could you help me??? Thank you very much
Hi Wayne. I have the spinnaker but not the poles and stays that go with it. I have used some of them in other areas where rudder or spreader bar has broken. If you still want the spinnaker, I can work out a price for you. You are aware that I am in Australia
Nandosanabria - I dont think that the load path is made from Dacron. dacron could not be cut that way, and may stretch and tear under the load. Personally I would just go with a really good dacron sail, because it would last forever. Cheers, Geoff
Nice video Geoff, I have a stock jib from Hobie and the lines are very prone to getting tangled in the cleats on the mast when coming about. Especially in heavy winds when control of both jib lines is more challenging or when attempting a jibe. I note two modifications you have done which may help with this. 1. Hoisting the jib higher than the stock set up. 2 adding two small blocks for the lines. Does this eliminate the annoying mast cleat tangle issue? Thanks for the helpful and fun videos. I am now a pro at stepping my mast thanks to your system.
Hi Miles. I both tack and jibe, but prefer to tack. I never get stuck. If you are getting stuck you are not doing it right. If you jibe you are more inclined to go over as the sail comes around. I had the jib made locally in South Aust I recon you are wrong about only having one foot in the strap. I can hike out a long way with one foot in the strap and my hand on the main sheet rope. With both feet under the strap in a fast capsize you could get your feet caught. Also having one leg underneath you makes you feel more balanced. And as for going fast flying a hull...you will slow down the higher you fly. All you are doing is spilling wind from your sail and decreasing its power. One hull in the water and the other just kissing is the fastest way to sail. you may have your opinion, but I think you are wrong. I sail in big winds and big seas, and the safest fastest position for me is right at the back.
Hello Victor, thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge. I have an old Hobie 16 jib sail. Do you think it could be modified to work well as a Hobie Wave jib sail? Basically cut off the bottom of the Hobie 16 jib to get 383 cm along the fore stay, 327 cm along the mast but only 152 cm along the bottom of the jib. Good health! Lon
My wave came with a spinnaker. And to be honest it was just too much trouble to set it up. Only used it twice and both times I became somewhat overpowered. Also more ropes on your deck as well as a furler. If you do all of the mods you will go fast enough, without the trouble of a spinnaker. Good luck
Hello there I had a local sail loft build a jib to your exact measurements and it works wonderfully. I've also raked the mast back as per your suggestion and I see a difference. The raked mast creates slack shrouds so I wish to shorten them. What is the measurement of your shrouds?
Hi Geoff, can you give some more details on how you shortened the tillers? How many inches did you remove? Is there any downside since this is not reversible?
Hi Geoff. Awesome vids. Well done! I recently bought a second hand Wave and having a real blast sailing it at Managwhai Heads NZ. More wind = more blast. Regarding the mast rake, how far back is the top from the base if the beams are level fore + aft? and did you shorten the shrouds on your boat? My boat is 10+yo and in need of new tramp (got one from SLO in Cal) and sails are tired so will look to replace these also next summer. Otherwise all good and little used. Bruce.
Hi Geoff, I absolutely love your videos, thank you!! I just wanted to ask you a question. Do you think the spreader bar alone, without a jib, helps to lift the bows up in the water? Cheers, Kit
thank for the advise Geoff i'll take that idea too!!! jeje also do you know if the load path sail can be made from dacron?? we are looking for a very long lasting sail because getting things to Venezuela is really hard... is a huge problem. i tried asking them but never got an answer thanks again
Thanks for your reply Geoff. Ok so in your opinion, is a Jib the best modification for lifting the bows out of the water on the wave? And did you use the jib that hobie makes initially before getting your custom jib?
You should try making a system to control the mast rotation, greatly improving performance. I am sorry but hobie wave fanatics have no idea about speed and flying a hull is faster than while the boat is flat due to the decrease in drag. Where was the jib made?
You can not hike with only one foot in a heavy breeze. Sitting farther back will decrease performance upwind due to the increased windage on the bows. While down wind these boats are to heavy to get on a plane.
Hi Geoff, I was wondering if you knew or had an estimate of how big a difference these mods make to the Wave's Portsmouth handicap number? With these mods is it getting close to the speed of a Hobie Getaway say?
The Hobie Sailing Parts and Accessories catalogue lists part number 38140001 as Wave Trapeze Kit. Haven't heard good things about using it single handed, but at 140 pounds it might work? $102 on amazon - www.amazon.com/Hobie-Trapeze-Rigging-Wave-38140001/dp/B008VGQOGEa
Hi Hammcrafted. Have a look at my video, Hobie Wave Sailing 30+knots. You will see me using a blue jib which is just a bit smaller than the green one in the video. You will see how much control and speed it gives. The green sail gives even more speed and control. Its winter here now, so I cant do any more videos with the blue sail. Hope you have a great summer over there. Keep an eye out for my new video on dodgy sailing ropes. Good wave sailing
No the spreader on its own does nothing. It's there initially f you have a jib to stop the hulls fro flexing. No jib...no flex or very little. The bar will help you manage it better though, n the beach, and on and off the trailer
A friend of mine just bought a new Wave, and he has put his forestry in the middle hole in the forestry adjuster. Angle is not critical. You still need to be able to get good tension in your blocks. If you rake it back and your mainsheet blocks are cranked down right and just dangling there.......you have gone too far. With the original hobie sale you should be able rake back a fair way. It’s your choice. The further back, the more speed you get.. Have a look at my video on how to get your mast up on your own. That may give you some more ideas about having flexible adjustments built into your rigging. If you need any further assistance contact me on my email. ggrayd@yahoo.com.au. Good sailing. P.s excuse the spell checker
Hi, Not sure how much I shortened them by, but my current side stays are exactly 4.2 metres long. I renew mine every two years, so my original ones are long gone. This length allows me to use the middle hole in each side stay adjuster. Good luck with it all. You will notice an increase in speed, and less tendency to bury the front hulls. Only downside is it's slightly harder to tack.....but hopefully you are using a jib which makes tacking much easier. If you want to write to me direct, my email address is ggrayd@yahoo.com.au.......cheers. geoff
Hi there...just used the jib that came with the wave, plus you must use the forestry white clips as shown in the video, otherwise your jib will resemble a fluttering rag...if you after any tips or advice from UA-cam, just email me at loftia33@yahoo.com. cheers, Geoff g
Hi Nandosanabria. When I got my boat secondhand already the topf of the mast had moved a little down inside the bottom section. Like you I was never going to take it apart so I just got the biggest pop rivets I could and put three into the sleeved section. You may have to borrow a heavy duty pop rivet gun to do this as your general purpose gun has not got enough leverage. I sail my boat very aggressively, and after 5 years of sailing it has not moved. Good sailing
Hi Boyd,...I often had issues with the lines getting tangled on the cleats. My boat came with two cleats on the front of the mast, so I removed those.. Yes the jib is slightly higher. The two small blocks do eliminate some tangling, but I have found the best way is to either just release the jib just as I am going into the wind That way the jib ropes are flogging madly and I pull then on really quick. The other way is to hang onto the jib rope as you tack and keep it tight. Then release it from the cleat and feed it through your hands, never allowing it to become slack. Its a bit of a pain, but better than getting the ropes hooked on the cleat and having to go and release it Where I sail I often have to turn inbetween waves, so its really important that the ropes dont get caught on a cleat.. I recon though, the first method is the best. Just release the jib when you are pointing straight into the wind and let everything go loose as you complete your tack. Its more of an issue in lighter winds when the ropes may not be flogging around as much. In this instance I would just try to keep the jib ropes tight and high up on the front of the mast so as not to foul any cleats. Hope this helps.
Cheers. Geoff
That should work. I have increased the size of my jib further since this video. Just remember you need to be able to see under your jib, so that you don’t hit anyone. Have fun
Great info here. Thanks for sharing, Geoff. I've been following your videos for a while now. I'd love to see more video of you sailing with your new sails.
Hi Thomas. After removing the swivel attachment at the end of each arm (drill out the pop rivet first) its just a matter of taking off an inch at a time with a hacksaw. For me it was a matter of taking the boat down to the beach, taking off an inch, going for a short sail and doing a hard tack. It will be a little bit harder to turn the tiller. I sped things up a bit by just grabbing the tiller arm down from the joining bar, bit by bit, doing hard gybes and normal sterring, and gradually moving my hand down the arm, until it started to become stiff to turn the rudder. At this point I marked where my hand was on the rudder arm. Doing it this way you maybe able to just take off 5-6 Inches straight away. With normal steering you will not notice the shortened arm. Its just doing a really hard gybe that you will notice it. How much you take off with depend on the strength and length of your arm. I dont have a tape measure in inches, but just to give you some idea, I am 184cm tall, weight 90kg, and my rudder are is 380cm from the bolt in the rudder, to the top of the rudder arm (dont include the swivel. Now when I sit on the boat, my left buttock is directly over the rear beam. I have a piece of boat carpet there to soften things up a bit. The only other thing to take into account, is that you use the rudder joining bar to push down to lock your rudders and to lift release them. Shortening the arm will make both actions harder, especially the lifting. Good luck. Dont forget at the end of the adjustments, to put another poprivet into the swivel. I forgot and mine came out half way down the face of a wave as I was surfing.
Yes you can add a trapeze kit from Hobie
Hi again Boyd. I note that you are talking about jibing. I rarely do this because of the tendency of flipping the boat as the sail comes around. The same principals apply though. In fact in jibing, i f I let the lines go loose when I am directly downwind, the lines will rarely catch on a cleat. However i recon in a jibe I would be more inclined to hang onto the jib lines and try to peep then tight and high up on the mast. Because the mast rotates so much its almost impossible to have cleats on you mast in a position where they will not catch. However in strong winds I recon the best option in either a jibe or a tack is to let them go really quickly and let them flog madly. I usually find that if they do get caught, if the lines are loose, they will release from the cleat of their own accord
Why would you only tack. These boats get stuck in the wind easily.
Geoff Thank you very much for sharing your ideas!! It's been very illuminating. For some reason our mast got broken... the upper part got inside the lower mast and every time we use it the sail is lower... we are getting a new mast but if you have any idea of how to prevent this please share it with me.... don't know why that happened, maybe we tighten the sails to hard... but that shouldn't happen anyway.... We have the Wave in a club and never take it out so we don't need to disarm it.... could you help me???
Thank you very much
Hi Wayne. I have the spinnaker but not the poles and stays that go with it. I have used some of them in other areas where rudder or spreader bar has broken. If you still want the spinnaker, I can work out a price for you. You are aware that I am in Australia
Nandosanabria - I dont think that the load path is made from Dacron. dacron could not be cut that way, and may stretch and tear under the load. Personally I would just go with a really good dacron sail, because it would last forever.
Cheers,
Geoff
Good OnYa Geoff - separating the sailors from the actresses!
Nice video Geoff,
I have a stock jib from Hobie and the lines are very prone to getting tangled in the cleats on the mast when coming about. Especially in heavy winds when control of both jib lines is more challenging or when attempting a jibe.
I note two modifications you have done which may help with this.
1. Hoisting the jib higher than the stock set up.
2 adding two small blocks for the lines. Does this eliminate the annoying mast cleat tangle issue?
Thanks for the helpful and fun videos. I am now a pro at stepping my mast thanks to your system.
Hi Miles. I both tack and jibe, but prefer to tack. I never get stuck. If you are getting stuck you are not doing it right. If you jibe you are more inclined to go over as the sail comes around.
I had the jib made locally in South Aust
I recon you are wrong about only having one foot in the strap. I can hike out a long way with one foot in the strap and my hand on the main sheet rope. With both feet under the strap in a fast capsize you could get your feet caught. Also having one leg underneath you makes you feel more balanced.
And as for going fast flying a hull...you will slow down the higher you fly. All you are doing is spilling wind from your sail and decreasing its power. One hull in the water and the other just kissing is the fastest way to sail.
you may have your opinion, but I think you are wrong. I sail in big winds and big seas, and the safest fastest position for me is right at the back.
Hi Geoff. Should the larger jib have an integrated rope/ wire in the luff to minimise were and tear? Thanks
Hello Victor, thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge.
I have an old Hobie 16 jib sail. Do you think it could be modified to work well as a Hobie Wave jib sail? Basically cut off the bottom of the Hobie 16 jib to get 383 cm along the fore stay, 327 cm along the mast but only 152 cm along the bottom of the jib.
Good health!
Lon
My wave came with a spinnaker. And to be honest it was just too much trouble to set it up. Only used it twice and both times I became somewhat overpowered. Also more ropes on your deck as well as a furler. If you do all of the mods you will go fast enough, without the trouble of a spinnaker. Good luck
If you still have it I'd be interested in buying it from you Geoff Cheers Wayne
Hello there
I had a local sail loft build a jib to your exact measurements and it works wonderfully. I've also raked the mast back as per your suggestion and I see a difference.
The raked mast creates slack shrouds so I wish to shorten them. What is the measurement of your shrouds?
Hi Geoff, can you give some more details on how you shortened the tillers? How many inches did you remove? Is there any downside since this is not reversible?
I've read that the bravo has a boom kit which improves performance, especially in lighter winds. Have you ever considered a boom install on the wave?
Hi Geoff. Awesome vids. Well done! I recently bought a second hand Wave and having a real blast sailing it at Managwhai Heads NZ. More wind = more blast. Regarding the mast rake, how far back is the top from the base if the beams are level fore + aft? and did you shorten the shrouds on your boat? My boat is 10+yo and in need of new tramp (got one from SLO in Cal) and sails are tired so will look to replace these also next summer. Otherwise all good and little used. Bruce.
Hi Geoff,
I absolutely love your videos, thank you!! I just wanted to ask you a question. Do you think the spreader bar alone, without a jib, helps to lift the bows up in the water?
Cheers,
Kit
How many cm do you recommend cutting side stays so the mast can be raked back?
Great Info Geoff Have done a few of the Mods love your jib plan - do you have any info on a hooter . asymmetric spinnaker on a wave ?
thank for the advise Geoff i'll take that idea too!!! jeje also do you know if the load path sail can be made from dacron?? we are looking for a very long lasting sail because getting things to Venezuela is really hard... is a huge problem. i tried asking them but never got an answer
thanks again
Thanks for your reply Geoff. Ok so in your opinion, is a Jib the best modification for lifting the bows out of the water on the wave? And did you use the jib that hobie makes initially before getting your custom jib?
You should try making a system to control the mast rotation, greatly improving performance. I am sorry but hobie wave fanatics have no idea about speed and flying a hull is faster than while the boat is flat due to the decrease in drag. Where was the jib made?
You can not hike with only one foot in a heavy breeze. Sitting farther back will decrease performance upwind due to the increased windage on the bows. While down wind these boats are to heavy to get on a plane.
Hi Geoff, I was wondering if you knew or had an estimate of how big a difference these mods make to the Wave's Portsmouth handicap number? With these mods is it getting close to the speed of a Hobie Getaway say?
is there an option to put on a trapeze wire for someone who wants to sail a wave single handed with a jib and only weighs 140 pounds?
The Hobie Sailing Parts and Accessories catalogue lists part number 38140001 as Wave Trapeze Kit. Haven't heard good things about using it single handed, but at 140 pounds it might work?
$102 on amazon - www.amazon.com/Hobie-Trapeze-Rigging-Wave-38140001/dp/B008VGQOGEa
Hi Hammcrafted.
Have a look at my video, Hobie Wave Sailing 30+knots. You will see me using a blue jib which is just a bit smaller than the green one in the video. You will see how much control and speed it gives. The green sail gives even more speed and control. Its winter here now, so I cant do any more videos with the blue sail. Hope you have a great summer over there. Keep an eye out for my new video on dodgy sailing ropes.
Good wave sailing
No the spreader on its own does nothing. It's there initially f you have a jib to stop the hulls fro flexing. No jib...no flex or very little. The bar will help you manage it better though, n the beach, and on and off the trailer
A friend of mine just bought a new Wave, and he has put his forestry in the middle hole in the forestry adjuster. Angle is not critical. You still need to be able to get good tension in your blocks. If you rake it back and your mainsheet blocks are cranked down right and just dangling there.......you have gone too far. With the original hobie sale you should be able rake back a fair way. It’s your choice. The further back, the more speed you get.. Have a look at my video on how to get your mast up on your own. That may give you some more ideas about having flexible adjustments built into your rigging. If you need any further assistance contact me on my email. ggrayd@yahoo.com.au. Good sailing. P.s excuse the spell checker
Hi,
Not sure how much I shortened them by, but my current side stays are exactly 4.2 metres long. I renew mine every two years, so my original ones are long gone. This length allows me to use the middle hole in each side stay adjuster. Good luck with it all. You will notice an increase in speed, and less tendency to bury the front hulls. Only downside is it's slightly harder to tack.....but hopefully you are using a jib which makes tacking much easier. If you want to write to me direct, my email address is ggrayd@yahoo.com.au.......cheers. geoff
I mean keep them tight....not peep
Hi there...just used the jib that came with the wave, plus you must use the forestry white clips as shown in the video, otherwise your jib will resemble a fluttering rag...if you after any tips or advice from UA-cam, just email me at loftia33@yahoo.com. cheers, Geoff
g