12:55 I’ve broken two of these filter housing wrenches when I didn’t use the larger socket over larger hex not a 3/8 extension (as recommended by wrench maker). Especially since it’s overnighted. Nice video. Thx for the detail.
Great video, I just use a 24oz lastic drink bottle with the oil filter purge valve. Stick purge valve into top of plastic soda bottle, then push into oil filter housing. Bottle catches , contains oil with no spill.
That Motivx oil filter cap wrench was redesigned over a year ago. The new one is even better than the original one and now it fits all Toyota built engines with a cartridge style oil filter (as well as most Toyota spin on filters) whereas previously there were two different sized wrenches. Also, there's nothing wrong with the plastic oil filter cap as long as torque specs are followed it will last the life of the engine. Also, you didn't follow the torque specs yourself... The oil filter cap IS supposed to be torqued to 25 N•m BUT not the drainbolt on the oil filter cap which you torqued both to the same spec. Oil filter cap= 25 N•m or 18 ft.lbs (Use your Motivx oil filter cap wrench and not the ⅜ inch extension). The drainbolt on the oil filter cap should only be 10 ft lbs and now you use the ⅜ inch extension. If you do it like you did it then next time you go to drain your filter it's more likely that the entire oil filter cap will come off as one piece.
Yeah, I noticed they redesigned the filter wrench. I already owned mine from when I had my Highlander. Which, subsequently is when I figured out the housing is plastic. It could last, you are correct, but the metal one is $35 and is an exact fit. The video must not show if very well, but I did use the filter wrench to torque the housing and then again to torque the drain plug bolt on the housing. I did torque the drain plug bolt too much though, that is correct. My manual showed 14 ft lbs...
@@BryanHansen I'm not 100% sure but I thought the instructions that come on the OEM Toyota oil filter box had the torque spec listed at 12.5 N•m for the drainbolt on the oil filter cap. (Most sources list 9 or 10 ft.lbs.) The oil filter cap itself is, like you said, 25 N•m but that's actually 25 N•m ± 5 N•m so it's 20 to 30 N•m or 14.5 to 21.5 ft.lbs.
@@BryanHansenI apologize for my lack of clarity. I was referring to your comments on the drain apparatus, not the housing. The housing is indeed superior than the stock one. I was just referring to your own comments on the drain systems. I like the KISS principle. The “stupid plastic thing” has always worked for me with minimal issues. That’s all. Good video btw.
You didn't have to bend the filter tube pipe tabs. Press down and turn. I am replacing the composite housing on a friends Corolla with the cast aluminum alloy one from a Scion.
So shouldn’t the “plug” at the bottom be less torque value as the actual filter cover? Giving the fact that is in place to take off to drain oil before you take off the outside filter cover to avoid the entire sum of oil coming out and avoiding a mess per the design. Just food for thought.
@@BryanHansen He claims you should never disassemble the housings. Its good advice but i dont see the issue if you bend the tabs back and do it properly.
@@BryanHansen yes I agree but you have to understand he's a Toyota tech and he's seen many people do it incorrectly which causes oil to just bypass the filter so he just advises everyone not to do it.
The brass valve definitely took a little getting used to, but now it is Slick. I am replacing the hose on mine because I hate how soft the one that came with is.
Do you really have to change out the baffle that comes with the metal housing replacement, I see a lot of comments of mechanics and diy’ers mentioning it doesn’t need to be done?
You confirmed my suspicions , I can see other people posting similar accounts, my filter was on so tight on my 2022 highlander, I rounded off the notches by the time I got it out, the dealer put it on that tight, as I had my first 2 oil changes done at the dealership. I don't care if spend $35 and my own time to change my own oil, I know its done right. Maybe its $100 at the dealership, you still have to factor in the time waiting there and getting there. You would think the dealership has the best oil, its generally the cheapest 0-20W they can get.
The gorillas that do the service work at the dealers use impact wrenches for EVERYTHING! They use that 3/8" square drive on the filter drain plug as a shortcut to save time and tighten the whole unit together to ridiculous torque settings. I've replaced the plastic filter housing with the metal one but have NEVER been able to remove that drain plug and had to purchase another one. And those "5 minute" oil change joints? Do yourself and your vehicle a favor and just drive past them. And God only knows what they're pouring into your engine or if the filter was installed correctly.
I have honestly just started buying Costco oil for everything I own. I have seen multiple accounts that it is Mobil one synthetic which is some of the best oil you can buy. I have ran it in 7 cars now for the last 3 years and it has never failed me yet. The dealer let oil run all down my skid plate which was nice of them...
I’m a big supporter of Costco oil also. $35 for ten qts is unbeatable even with Autozone or Napa sales. The other great thing about DYI oil changes is that it gets you under there to actually view what’s going on with other components and hopefully spot any problems as they arise and not get any bigger.
I wouldn’t even bother with draining the filter. Just take the whole thing off like a canister filter. You’ll save 10 minutes and won’t have to worry about that hose dripping and making a mess
The biggest difference is that you can shut it off once you start it. If you jam the plastic drain in that comes with the filter you’ll have oil on the floor by the time you get it shut off.
Appreciate the reality of this tutorial. These oil changes are so much easier with these simple modifications. Nice work!!
12:55 I’ve broken two of these filter housing wrenches when I didn’t use the larger socket over larger hex not a 3/8 extension (as recommended by wrench maker). Especially since it’s overnighted.
Nice video. Thx for the detail.
Great video, I just use a 24oz lastic drink bottle with the oil filter purge valve. Stick purge valve into top of plastic soda bottle, then push into oil filter housing. Bottle catches , contains oil with no spill.
That’s a solid idea too!
That Motivx oil filter cap wrench was redesigned over a year ago. The new one is even better than the original one and now it fits all Toyota built engines with a cartridge style oil filter (as well as most Toyota spin on filters) whereas previously there were two different sized wrenches.
Also, there's nothing wrong with the plastic oil filter cap as long as torque specs are followed it will last the life of the engine.
Also, you didn't follow the torque specs yourself...
The oil filter cap IS supposed to be torqued to 25 N•m BUT not the drainbolt on the oil filter cap which you torqued both to the same spec.
Oil filter cap= 25 N•m or 18 ft.lbs (Use your Motivx oil filter cap wrench and not the ⅜ inch extension).
The drainbolt on the oil filter cap should only be 10 ft lbs and now you use the ⅜ inch extension. If you do it like you did it then next time you go to drain your filter it's more likely that the entire oil filter cap will come off as one piece.
Yeah, I noticed they redesigned the filter wrench. I already owned mine from when I had my Highlander. Which, subsequently is when I figured out the housing is plastic. It could last, you are correct, but the metal one is $35 and is an exact fit. The video must not show if very well, but I did use the filter wrench to torque the housing and then again to torque the drain plug bolt on the housing. I did torque the drain plug bolt too much though, that is correct. My manual showed 14 ft lbs...
@@BryanHansen
I'm not 100% sure but I thought the instructions that come on the OEM Toyota oil filter box had the torque spec listed at 12.5 N•m for the drainbolt on the oil filter cap. (Most sources list 9 or 10 ft.lbs.) The oil filter cap itself is, like you said, 25 N•m but that's actually 25 N•m ± 5 N•m so it's 20 to 30 N•m or 14.5 to 21.5 ft.lbs.
@@njsongwriter I said foot pounds and actually meant Newton meters. What I get for responding late.
“This stupid plastic thing” vs “That works like hot garbage”. I’m guessing I’ll stay with the stupid plastic thing. It’s simple and it works.
The metal housing is the same spec and used by Toyota on other engines…isn’t hot garbage? It actually is from their most common block? But have at it.
@@BryanHansenI apologize for my lack of clarity. I was referring to your comments on the drain apparatus, not the housing. The housing is indeed superior than the stock one. I was just referring to your own comments on the drain systems. I like the KISS principle. The “stupid plastic thing” has always worked for me with minimal issues. That’s all. Good video btw.
The dome piece that the spring/center tube sits on at the bottom of the housing is slightly different between the two. Not sure if this matters
Thank you for the video
You didn't have to bend the filter tube pipe tabs. Press down and turn. I am replacing the composite housing on a friends Corolla with the cast aluminum alloy one from a Scion.
Not sure why, but I had to on mine
nope. it has to be bended if you want to mess with the filter. The car care nuts would kill you both for messing with an original filter
@@JC-xc8rxthe car care nuts should be irritated with the plastic housing.
@@BryanHansen ua-cam.com/video/G_vl2AYe7Yg/v-deo.htmlsi=DSCFTYTvPQiOyjFf
Is the Red grease the same as hi temp grease.
Yes
So shouldn’t the “plug” at the bottom be less torque value as the actual filter cover? Giving the fact that is in place to take off to drain oil before you take off the outside filter cover to avoid the entire sum of oil coming out and avoiding a mess per the design. Just food for thought.
It is less.
17:34 the car care nut would kill you for doing this
Why.
@@BryanHansen ua-cam.com/video/G_vl2AYe7Yg/v-deo.html
@@BryanHansen He claims you should never disassemble the housings. Its good advice but i dont see the issue if you bend the tabs back and do it properly.
@@albanciveja1777they are literally made to assemble, disassemble.
@@BryanHansen yes I agree but you have to understand he's a Toyota tech and he's seen many people do it incorrectly which causes oil to just bypass the filter so he just advises everyone not to do it.
I use Italiano virgin olive oil over regular oil. Lasts over a jillion miles.
I have all those same tools for doing this except the brass drain valve, gonna order one up today. Great video man!
The brass valve definitely took a little getting used to, but now it is Slick. I am replacing the hose on mine because I hate how soft the one that came with is.
Do you really have to change out the baffle that comes with the metal housing replacement, I see a lot of comments of mechanics and diy’ers mentioning it doesn’t need to be done?
I absolutely would. It adds structural rigidity to the filter element. It is easy to do.
Interesting the aluminum one bottoms out, then you torque it. Did the plastic one originally bottom out too?
It does as well. The aluminum one definitely “feels” better to me though.
I changed it but without the aluminum pole ( i mean the inside the cap oil filter) is it ok?
I would put the center in to keep the filter from collapsing.
You confirmed my suspicions , I can see other people posting similar accounts, my filter was on so tight on my 2022 highlander, I rounded off the notches by the time I got it out, the dealer put it on that tight, as I had my first 2 oil changes done at the dealership. I don't care if spend $35 and my own time to change my own oil, I know its done right. Maybe its $100 at the dealership, you still have to factor in the time waiting there and getting there. You would think the dealership has the best oil, its generally the cheapest 0-20W they can get.
The gorillas that do the service work at the dealers use impact wrenches for EVERYTHING! They use that 3/8" square drive on the filter drain plug as a shortcut to save time and tighten the whole unit together to ridiculous torque settings. I've replaced the plastic filter housing with the metal one but have NEVER been able to remove that drain plug and had to purchase another one. And those "5 minute" oil change joints? Do yourself and your vehicle a favor and just drive past them. And God only knows what they're pouring into your engine or if the filter was installed correctly.
I have honestly just started buying Costco oil for everything I own. I have seen multiple accounts that it is Mobil one synthetic which is some of the best oil you can buy. I have ran it in 7 cars now for the last 3 years and it has never failed me yet. The dealer let oil run all down my skid plate which was nice of them...
I’m a big supporter of Costco oil also. $35 for ten qts is unbeatable even with Autozone or Napa sales. The other great thing about DYI oil changes is that it gets you under there to actually view what’s going on with other components and hopefully spot any problems as they arise and not get any bigger.
Great tips and tricks!!
What about the adapter that allows spin on filters?
I actually prefer this style of oil filter. I think it is a much better solution in the long run.
I wouldn’t even bother with draining the filter. Just take the whole thing off like a canister filter. You’ll save 10 minutes and won’t have to worry about that hose dripping and making a mess
Now Toyota make the oil change complicated
To be fair they made it complicated for a long time. My Honda had more skid plate bolts to take off that this though, but yes it is a pain.
25 Nm converts to 18.439 ft-lbs
what specific red grease did you use?
amzn.to/48MkKl2
@@BryanHansen Thank you for a quick response.
Why not take all the crap out of the bags..... before you make a video?
Because some people like to see how things are shipped. Also like to keep things clean especially regarding oil.
Oil pan drain valve looks worthwhile, however the oil filter drain looks like more of a pain in the ass.
The biggest difference is that you can shut it off once you start it. If you jam the plastic drain in that comes with the filter you’ll have oil on the floor by the time you get it shut off.