Check out NanoCruising: the dinghy cruising and trailer sailing podcast podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/building-dreams-perry-eubanks-journey-to-an-ocean/id1727605547?i=1000662707045
Nice episode. And great job on the Nano Cruising podcast. Glad the host interviewed you. You're both making very needed contributions to the small boat sailing community.
04:21 a -- 2003, we mounted the windows in our ExpeditionVehicle using Vulcum 116. Over two decades full-time live-aboard, this sealant-adhesive remains soft and pliable. . b -- an adhesive applied to the surface bonds only the surface; the structure may experience movement strong enough to shear internally.
Definately the bigger garage/workshop space is necessary. I haven't worked on much of anything in the past 6 months, besides my 2 bay boat shop underground garage here at my new/old home. Yours looks a lot nicer than mine though! LOL...baby steps. Congratulations Perry I hope you get the house. It is really nice to own a home, a place where you can do anything that you want. This is the first home that I've purchased as a seasoned, confirmed, bachelor-sailor. So it's exciting to dream about how I'm going to build everything. Hopefully, later this year, a new steel building with gantries for lifting and flipping hulls.
Love your content. Want to (in some unspecified future) try to make a mini/micro cruiser with additional electric assisted pedal proppeling (as extra to the sail), preferably hybridized with velomobile (i.e. have closet sized amphibian with optional pedal/electric propulsion both on land and water, and with a sail for water). But because my sailing abiliites suck bottom, my goal and reason for creating/obtaining this vehicle would be to travel inland, using roads and rivers to ge to the seaside, and than within the sight of the shores TOPS. Return via cargo train. Was thinking about foldable multihul and hydrofoil designs too. BTW im a bit unsure, if your "spoiler" can help your ship with selfrighting, if the sail is wet and already under the water, i belive the spoiler will keep you NOT turning head down and let you probably a chance to use your hatch, but im not sure if that is everything, you want and expect out of the "spoiler". Have to tell you, your santas shop has good little helpers. The picture for dad was something, i felt flat-out envy for...
If you're upside down you need to correct 180 degrees. This buoyancy arch ensures you quickly get the mast pointing above the horizon. It's a large volume of buoyant area working to roll the boat back to her side. After that the lead ballast at the end of the keels and all the water and gear stored down near the bottom of the hull do the rest of the work to get you upright again. The buoyancy arch is an important part of righting.
Congrats on the 11k subs now, also good luck with the house purchase 🤞I sure would be nice to have some security for your family knowing they don't need to move house while your at sea, that'll take some stress off all of you 🤞
Have you looked into how the location of the arch way back at the stern might affect its performance compared to if it were located amidships? (picturing the boat floating in some odd position with the bow down 20 degrees, the boat on its side, rolled about 110 deg). iirc, the French sailor's first boat had a design issue and he had to be rescued by a passing ship. Had you looked into Dudley Dix's Piepowder 16 design?
I've always wondered about the construction of the Pardy's boat that he built. They did not have an engine to outrun storms. And what we would consider now-a-days, the most basic of necessities. Lyn swore by that boat and how sturdy and safe it was. Might be a fun look, unless you've already delved into their story. :)
You should really add an extra layer of foam material onto of the buoyancy wing before you fiberglass it as to keep your buoyancy of those plastic bottles, plus to strengthen that flush joint you made on the top layer :)
Thanks, but I'm not worried about it. With some layers of carbon fiber/fiberglass it will be strong and water tight. I can always add an extra layer or two over thin spots.
I don`t know if this has already been discussed, but is the structural foam you are using Divinycell? What's the density? In internationl units, 80 kg/m3 would be ok? And what's the width of the foam pieces?
This is structural PVC foam core. It is 90 pounds per sq inch compression strength, 4lbs/cubic feet in weight, and the sheets I bought are 3/8" or about 10mm.
I think I would have used ping pong balls for buoyancy - you can buy them by the 100's. I stuffed them all the interior length of a Hobie cat mast to prevent the boat going turtle in a capsize. Worked every time and quickly got me back in the race.
Seems a little wasteful when the bottles are free, though. Plus ping-pong balls are likely more weight per cubic ft than bottles. If a small bottle won't fit in there, then using them inside a small space like a mast sounds like a good application. The first sailboat I owned was a Hobie 16.
Why are more ocean going small boats not built watertight and self righting like this? A design like this is certainly not 100% sink resistant but barring serious damage it is very close.
In that the foam is glued together to form a block, could you not have used a much cheaper product, or possibly have carved the arch out of a solid block? I hope you get the house. If nothing else it will be a nice security for your children as they won't have to change schools whilst they grow up and can maintain the friendships they form. Thanks for the video, and a Happy Christmas to you and your family.
Yes, I considered using a cheaper foam block, but I already had this quality PVC structural foam and need to use it up anyway. Plus I don't really have a setup to cut large blocks of foam, I think I'd need to make a hot-wire cutter.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboatI was going to make the same comment. But see your reasoning. ps, you don’t need a hot wire cutter, just a saw and a Surform, then sandpaper
@ i made a couple of windsurfing boards from Stryrofoam + epoxy glass. Very light very durable. And easy to to work. One other thing I have picked up. Using drinks bottles for buoyancy is not so good, for some reason they half collapsed after a year or so.
I mentioned in the video that the expanding foam final volume would be less than what was inside the structure. So I added just enough bottles to make up the difference.
Thanks for the video, I like that the family is helping you with the project. Working with foam is not easy when you are not used to it. I would advise others who do the same thing to glue the bottles before putting the foam, but honestly if I were you I am sure I would have made the same mistake and even worse, it is not easy to be a pioneer. God bless you and your family, and I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas.
Yes, I would do things differently if I started over. I didn't even think I'd need to use poured foam when I started. I just wanted compartments of air. But then I figured some quality foam inside to make it stiffer would be better. Merry Christmas.
Why do you use hot glue and that other glue for the foam sheets? Aren't you afraid they will delaminate from each other on hot summer days and create strange deformations when they glide around? Merry Christmas Captain Perry and the family!
Not really, think of it more like a form for the carbon fiber/ fiberglass that will be wrapped around it. It will be very stiff after that and the glue inside won't matter much.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat I understand how you think, and I’m by no means an expert in composites, but I think you need quite many layers of cloth to have it rigid it the “mold” starts to move away. I know from my own little motorboat that I can see the inner sides move quite a lot when jumping waves and I estimate it to be around 5-7mm thick, plus gel coat. The boat itself is rigid from stringers and such but the inner sides can flex.
Definitely hull panels will flex, but with the rigid foam that was poured in to this component, plus the large sections of PVC foam, it will be like a block of hard foam inside the loop of fiberglass.
@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Not sure if I could have written anything before here on this video as I never even tried. But I know, there is no harm in it at this point. I might have figured out basically one item I was asking you about elsewhere... It's the properties / dimensions of the construction foam that I wasn't exactly considering when I asked before and how it might not be possible to have any tighter bends to it that had me thinking a bit differently... To combat floating air bottles issue. Maybe as I mentioned elsewhere perhaps having wing ribs with holes cut in them to tightly house / contain, what might be considered as empty yet actually, are air filled bottles. I believe that may have worked if bottles could remain secured a little more than simply a wine bottle rack with bottles simply resting in them if that creates a mental picture for you. Perhaps you might have had to use more like single use size bottles instead to work with rib dimensions here and still have some construction foam structure remaining. Then do more like a casting sprue technique instead with expanding foam of having large coin sized escape holes in top surface for expanding foam to flow over instead of exserting its pressure on your structure. And/or basically just don't attempt to cap / place a lid on top surface or not leave any place for expanding foam to escape until it cures. Just rather let overflow and then slice off with longer larger serrated bread knife or possibly simply a hack saw blade by itself laid down flush with upper wing surface. Now that I see the process and think for a second about it... Maybe ribs or at least a couple of them could have had the lightest FG cloth applied to their faces beforehand for rigidity... And you stack shorter in lengths sections of horizontal decks between those rigid ribs in much the same fashion as you showed here. Might be possibly a worthy suggestion to apply. Then, cut flush with hack saw blade to match rib's profile. This may have ended up requiring more ribs though. It seems you ended up with a horizontal buoyancy wing you can work with regardless of any critiques made or hindsight grand ideas that are bound to enlighten any of us after the fact. Lastly maybe in an effort of achieving the most favorable outcome... The order of operation may boil down to this: Lightly glass some wing ribs before assembly for rigidity purposes. Have air chamber bottles fit snuggly into holes in rib webbing to avoid them floating up in expanding foam during pour. Create or Leave exit sprues that work like vent holes in casting on upper surface during expanding foam pour. (Maybe flip wing or whatever hollow structure piece over to have vent hole in less noticeable location such as bottom surface if possible Glass a light shell over this full hollow structure, yet leaving or recut vent holes... Then fill with cavity with expanding foam as your container now has more strength to stand up against expanding foam pressures especially if you allow foam to exit somewhere during pour. Clean overflow away or trim sprues flush with final flat surface. Finish with a few patches of glass over sprue /vent holes and a full coverage of cloth for final smooth surface. Yet, I still wonder if that would be possible to build the whole hollow cavity structure like that or would foam surface(s) be sagging somewhere in between to prohibit this or lead to another issue?
Glad you are able to have a place to work again on this passion project of yours and inch closer to enjoying the final product on the water hopefully in due time.
I like your videos :-) ...and when people do something different. But there is a much easier and better way to do it. You could have made it out of hot wired EPS with a GoreTex air valve. 100 l is less than 2kg. Wrapped in carbon with stringer and reinforcements, it would be less than 8kg.
Why not build it with the hotwire method as they often do with wings fore exprimental aircrafts. Half the building time and half the cost and less weight = moor buoyancy.
Check out NanoCruising: the dinghy cruising and trailer sailing podcast podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/building-dreams-perry-eubanks-journey-to-an-ocean/id1727605547?i=1000662707045
Thanks for the link. There's some other interesting podcasts on here too.
Glad to see you at work.
Hope you can get the house.
Nice episode. And great job on the Nano Cruising podcast. Glad the host interviewed you. You're both making very needed contributions to the small boat sailing community.
Glad to see you back at, Good luck I hope you get it.
Thank you for this video.
And thank you for the trick about putting bottles in the fridge to be sure they will be full with air.🙂
Awesome to see your video on my wall! I hope you can get the house permanently. Merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your family! Stay safe!
04:21
a -- 2003, we mounted the windows in our ExpeditionVehicle using Vulcum 116.
Over two decades full-time live-aboard, this sealant-adhesive remains soft and pliable.
.
b -- an adhesive applied to the surface bonds only the surface; the structure may experience movement strong enough to shear internally.
It's got nowhere to go, it will be wrapped in carbon fiber and fiberglass.
Congratulations on 10 K and the podcast!
All the best for buying the house and have a good Xmas!
Good Luck with the house purchase!🤞 I love the videos!! Keep up the great work!
Хорошо получается! Очень интересная идея. Удачи!))))
Good luck in your new digs. I hope all works out for the best. Interesting and informative video!
Great job and keep up the good work.
Cool you did the Nano Cruising podcast. I actually just subscribed to their UA-cam channel yesterday. I’ll be sure to check out your episode.
The little boat reminds me of many of the modified life boats I have seen. I suspect that is a good thing.
Love the messages hidden inside the bouyancy arch! Good work as always, Captain!
I like the decorated stringers, even if it's unlikely to ever see them again. Good luck buying the house! It's a harrowing market out there.
Hopefully I never see them again! But I got pictures.
Thanks for the link to Nano Cruising.
I see another designed builder in the play list, Alan Mulholland of "sailing Wave Rover".
Glad to see you again looking good
Definately the bigger garage/workshop space is necessary. I haven't worked on much of anything in the past 6 months, besides my 2 bay boat shop underground garage here at my new/old home. Yours looks a lot nicer than mine though! LOL...baby steps. Congratulations Perry I hope you get the house. It is really nice to own a home, a place where you can do anything that you want. This is the first home that I've purchased as a seasoned, confirmed, bachelor-sailor. So it's exciting to dream about how I'm going to build everything. Hopefully, later this year, a new steel building with gantries for lifting and flipping hulls.
Love your content.
Want to (in some unspecified future) try to make a mini/micro cruiser with additional electric assisted pedal proppeling (as extra to the sail), preferably hybridized with velomobile (i.e. have closet sized amphibian with optional pedal/electric propulsion both on land and water, and with a sail for water). But because my sailing abiliites suck bottom, my goal and reason for creating/obtaining this vehicle would be to travel inland, using roads and rivers to ge to the seaside, and than within the sight of the shores TOPS. Return via cargo train.
Was thinking about foldable multihul and hydrofoil designs too.
BTW im a bit unsure, if your "spoiler" can help your ship with selfrighting, if the sail is wet and already under the water, i belive the spoiler will keep you NOT turning head down and let you probably a chance to use your hatch, but im not sure if that is everything, you want and expect out of the "spoiler".
Have to tell you, your santas shop has good little helpers. The picture for dad was something, i felt flat-out envy for...
Good luck with the house purchase Captain - hope it goes well. Great vid as always!
Good luck with your house purchase. It's good to put down roots.
How does a horizontal wing on the stern help keep the boat upright?
If you're upside down you need to correct 180 degrees. This buoyancy arch ensures you quickly get the mast pointing above the horizon. It's a large volume of buoyant area working to roll the boat back to her side. After that the lead ballast at the end of the keels and all the water and gear stored down near the bottom of the hull do the rest of the work to get you upright again. The buoyancy arch is an important part of righting.
Congrats on the 11k subs now, also good luck with the house purchase 🤞I sure would be nice to have some security for your family knowing they don't need to move house while your at sea, that'll take some stress off all of you 🤞
Nice work ❤
Have you looked into how the location of the arch way back at the stern might affect its performance compared to if it were located amidships? (picturing the boat floating in some odd position with the bow down 20 degrees, the boat on its side, rolled about 110 deg).
iirc, the French sailor's first boat had a design issue and he had to be rescued by a passing ship.
Had you looked into Dudley Dix's Piepowder 16 design?
I've always wondered about the construction of the Pardy's boat that he built. They did not have an engine to outrun storms. And what we would consider now-a-days, the most basic of necessities. Lyn swore by that boat and how sturdy and safe it was. Might be a fun look, unless you've already delved into their story. :)
They where much much bigger boats
You should really add an extra layer of foam material onto of the buoyancy wing before you fiberglass it as to keep your buoyancy of those plastic bottles, plus to strengthen that flush joint you made on the top layer :)
Thanks, but I'm not worried about it. With some layers of carbon fiber/fiberglass it will be strong and water tight. I can always add an extra layer or two over thin spots.
03:37
Concerned about long hot days destroying your bonds, I see the temperature of hot-glue is 380°f/175°c.
I think you covered for most days...
The bonds just hold it in place until it's encased in carbon fiber and fiberglass.
5:42. Like a glove
I don`t know if this has already been discussed, but is the structural foam you are using Divinycell? What's the density? In internationl units, 80 kg/m3 would be ok? And what's the width of the foam pieces?
This is structural PVC foam core. It is 90 pounds per sq inch compression strength, 4lbs/cubic feet in weight, and the sheets I bought are 3/8" or about 10mm.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat , thank you! It's approximately 64 kg/m3.
@@paloureiro I've found the free AI chat sites are good for that, such as Gemini.
I think I would have used ping pong balls for buoyancy - you can buy them by the 100's.
I stuffed them all the interior length of a Hobie cat mast to prevent the boat going turtle in a capsize. Worked every time and quickly got me back in the race.
Seems a little wasteful when the bottles are free, though. Plus ping-pong balls are likely more weight per cubic ft than bottles. If a small bottle won't fit in there, then using them inside a small space like a mast sounds like a good application. The first sailboat I owned was a Hobie 16.
look very similar to yann Quenet french boat baluchon who's making his second world tour :)
Why are more ocean going small boats not built watertight and self righting like this? A design like this is certainly not 100% sink resistant but barring serious damage it is very close.
3:58 ten dywan po którym chodzisz; jest wełniany?
In that the foam is glued together to form a block, could you not have used a much cheaper product, or possibly have carved the arch out of a solid block?
I hope you get the house. If nothing else it will be a nice security for your children as they won't have to change schools whilst they grow up and can maintain the friendships they form.
Thanks for the video, and a Happy Christmas to you and your family.
Yes, I considered using a cheaper foam block, but I already had this quality PVC structural foam and need to use it up anyway. Plus I don't really have a setup to cut large blocks of foam, I think I'd need to make a hot-wire cutter.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboatI was going to make the same comment. But see your reasoning.
ps, you don’t need a hot wire cutter, just a saw and a Surform, then sandpaper
@@markthomasson5077 Thanks, maybe I'll try it for the vertical supports.
@ i made a couple of windsurfing boards from Stryrofoam + epoxy glass. Very light very durable. And easy to to work.
One other thing I have picked up. Using drinks bottles for buoyancy is not so good, for some reason they half collapsed after a year or so.
@@markthomasson5077 Did you close them at a higher elevation and then move them down to sea-level by any chance?
Why did you put the bottles in if you were using expanding foam and glassing it all up?
I mentioned in the video that the expanding foam final volume would be less than what was inside the structure. So I added just enough bottles to make up the difference.
Thanks for the video, I like that the family is helping you with the project. Working with foam is not easy when you are not used to it. I would advise others who do the same thing to glue the bottles before putting the foam, but honestly if I were you I am sure I would have made the same mistake and even worse, it is not easy to be a pioneer. God bless you and your family, and I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas.
Yes, I would do things differently if I started over. I didn't even think I'd need to use poured foam when I started. I just wanted compartments of air. But then I figured some quality foam inside to make it stiffer would be better. Merry Christmas.
Why do you use hot glue and that other glue for the foam sheets? Aren't you afraid they will delaminate from each other on hot summer days and create strange deformations when they glide around? Merry Christmas Captain Perry and the family!
Not really, think of it more like a form for the carbon fiber/ fiberglass that will be wrapped around it. It will be very stiff after that and the glue inside won't matter much.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat I understand how you think, and I’m by no means an expert in composites, but I think you need quite many layers of cloth to have it rigid it the “mold” starts to move away. I know from my own little motorboat that I can see the inner sides move quite a lot when jumping waves and I estimate it to be around 5-7mm thick, plus gel coat. The boat itself is rigid from stringers and such but the inner sides can flex.
Definitely hull panels will flex, but with the rigid foam that was poured in to this component, plus the large sections of PVC foam, it will be like a block of hard foam inside the loop of fiberglass.
@ I hope you’re right and I’m wrong 😉 Have a very merry Christmas!🎄 🧑🎄
Say Hi to Sven Yrvind for me
@ocean_capable_small_sailboat
Not sure if I could have written anything before here on this video as I never even tried.
But I know, there is no harm in it at this point.
I might have figured out basically one item I was asking you about elsewhere...
It's the properties / dimensions of the construction foam that I wasn't exactly considering when I asked before and how it might not be possible to have any tighter bends to it that had me thinking a bit differently...
To combat floating air bottles issue. Maybe as I mentioned elsewhere perhaps having wing ribs with holes cut in them to tightly house / contain, what might be considered as empty yet actually, are air filled bottles. I believe that may have worked if bottles could remain secured a little more than simply a wine bottle rack with bottles simply resting in them if that creates a mental picture for you. Perhaps you might have had to use more like single use size bottles instead to work with rib dimensions here and still have some construction foam structure remaining.
Then do more like a casting sprue technique instead with expanding foam of having large coin sized escape holes in top surface for expanding foam to flow over instead of exserting its pressure on your structure. And/or basically just don't attempt to cap / place a lid on top surface or not leave any place for expanding foam to escape until it cures. Just rather let overflow and then slice off with longer larger serrated bread knife or possibly simply a hack saw blade by itself laid down flush with upper wing surface.
Now that I see the process and think for a second about it... Maybe ribs or at least a couple of them could have had the lightest FG cloth applied to their faces beforehand for rigidity... And you stack shorter in lengths sections of horizontal decks between those rigid ribs in much the same fashion as you showed here. Might be possibly a worthy suggestion to apply. Then, cut flush with hack saw blade to match rib's profile. This may have ended up requiring more ribs though.
It seems you ended up with a horizontal buoyancy wing you can work with regardless of any critiques made or hindsight grand ideas that are bound to enlighten any of us after the fact.
Lastly maybe in an effort of achieving the most favorable outcome... The order of operation may boil down to this:
Lightly glass some wing ribs before assembly for rigidity purposes.
Have air chamber bottles fit snuggly into holes in rib webbing to avoid them floating up in expanding foam during pour.
Create or Leave exit sprues that work like vent holes in casting on upper surface during expanding foam pour.
(Maybe flip wing or whatever hollow structure piece over to have vent hole in less noticeable location such as bottom surface if possible
Glass a light shell over this full hollow structure, yet leaving or recut vent holes...
Then fill with cavity with expanding foam as your container now has more strength to stand up against expanding foam pressures especially if you allow foam to exit somewhere during pour. Clean overflow away or trim sprues flush with final flat surface.
Finish with a few patches of glass over sprue /vent holes and a full coverage of cloth for final smooth surface.
Yet, I still wonder if that would be possible to build the whole hollow cavity structure like that or would foam surface(s) be sagging somewhere in between to prohibit this or lead to another issue?
Glad you are able to have a place to work again on this passion project of yours and inch closer to enjoying the final product on the water hopefully in due time.
I like your videos :-) ...and when people do something different. But there is a much easier and better way to do it.
You could have made it out of hot wired EPS with a GoreTex air valve. 100 l is less than 2kg. Wrapped in carbon with stringer and reinforcements, it would be less than 8kg.
I considered it, but I don't have a hot wire setup nor the giant foam block. The items used were already in my house.
great 押忍 OSU
❤
Why not build it with the hotwire method as they often do with wings fore exprimental aircrafts. Half the building time and half the cost and less weight = moor buoyancy.
Neat, but I don't have a big block of foam to cut nor a hot wire setup. The foam I used was already in the house and needs to be used up.
👍🏻
:)
great to sea back
microglobesail around the world by saillboat 16´non stop
🌍🌎🌏🌐
thanks for subscription
look very similar to yann Quenet french boat baluchon who's making his second world tour :)
Yes that was the intention 😁