1800W ZVS Induction Heater Experiment 4K

1800W ZVS Induction heater powered by 4 - 48 volt 10 amp power supplies. Supplying 48 volts and 40 amps to the induction heater which is water cooled with a 2.1 gpm solar heater re-circulation pump which has a 1 gallon reservoir for heat dissipation. Included in the experiment is two fluke meters measuring both AC and DC amps along with a FLIR thermal imager viewing the heating element and object to be heated along with the cooling circuit and reservoir.
This video is rendered in full 4K resolution this time, showing you more of the setup and meters, scopes and cameras used during the experiment.
Please enjoy and contact me if you have any questions at [e-mail].

[@frenchcreekvalley]

Thank you for the demonstration. What are your eventual goals for this induction heater? How much water temperature rise did you see in your reservoir during that test? Did you power the water pump from the buck converter on the pcboard (the little board runs the fans) or did you use a separate source?

[@NorthmeadowMedical]

Howdy .frenchcreekvalley,
The water pump was powered separately from the PCB board that controlled the fans. I used Belker Power Supplies (Model: PA-30360H-ZMX 36W) which have a variable output from 5v to 15v and set it to 12v which provided 3A. The water pump I used was a Bayite BYT-7A015 Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump that runs at 2.1 gal/min. The reservoir could hold just about 1 gallon of water so the turnover was just over twice a minute and later off camera during other tests I included a dual 120mm fan pass thru radiator with four 120mm delta fans (Model: THA1248BE 48v 2.5a 318.2 CFM each) equaling 1,272.8 CFM airflow. Although without the radiator setup which was let's just say overkill, the water temperature only rose 16-21 degrees during the entire experiment. starting at 22c and rising to 38c-44c. WIth the radiator included the system actually lost heat and cooled down the water beyond what the Induction heater could put into the system. The radiator package also used a seperate power supply from the Induction heaters power supply as I did not want to shock or damage the heater by introducing loads to the heater while it was powering up as I was using switching power supplies which must reach full power before the heater can be connected, otherwise you run the risk of frying the electronics by opening both heater elements creating a loop instead of allowing the heater to oscillate as intended to create the Eddy currents. If you would like to see the radiator setup I can add a link to some pictures. Just let me know! I hope this helped you! Let me know if you have any other questions.