Suggestion/Warning: Don't ever cut a Dado running your finger on top of the wood over the saw blade. I lost part of my thumb when the wood split and my thumb hit the spinning blade. Severe pain, lots of blood and a Plastic Surgeon. Always use the push stick. I learned the lesson the hard way.
hi laura i have worked with coffee roaster installations for a long time and know this kind of water dripping from chimneys. during roasting or also during the burning of wood the smoke contains water vapor as well. with makeshift chimneys that are not double-walled (they exist in an insulated version to minimize this) the following can happen: at low outside temperatures the water contained in the smoke condenses on the very cold walls of the chimney tubing on the outside of the building. this water droplets attract soot and other smoke ingredients and form this brown sluggish „water“. this is especially a problem when the fire is not burning for reaaally long time or at insufficient temperature (for the chimney) so it does not evaporate again. from all looks of it this is the kind of water that flows back down your chimney and damaged your building. in a lot of situations we mitigated this by adding drainage on the outside BELOW the outlet of the roaster/fireplace. so the water drips down in the outside tube and then out of a small drain hole below the outlet on the wall. if you look at images of chimneys that are built on houses you can see these most of the time. the pipe goes much lower than what would be neccessary to capture the water and also make it possible to clean the tube for the chimney cleaner. i will send you a picture on instagram to visualize what i mean. you need to fix this before you turn on the chimney again, especially if you used a build where the parts are just interconnected and not tight-fit into each other (which is perfectly fine) but on the back journey the water leaks from these seams into your wall, the insulation and also the outside/transit piece from your fireplace which is why you found a lot of water with droplets splashing onto the wall behind your fireplace.
please also avoid 90° perpendicular joints as much as possible and make sure the smoke only goes up at a small angle (which can be very small, but it should have a slope, not perfect horizontal!). where room allows it, 2x 45° joins or 3x 30° makes for a more natural flow and improves airflow significantly. but i‘m positive that you should be perfectly fine with drainage at the bottom of the outside tubing :) all the best and good luck
The chimney wasn’t the main problem IMO. The construction wasn’t weatherproof at all, strong winds make parts of the roof come off and heavy rain ruins everything in seconds. Furthermore obviously no one pays attention to the tiny house after the damage so mould can develop. one could easily take some early measurements to prevent such damage.
A couple of things that stand out to me as a carpenter from northern europe birch plywood is very prone to molding, goes off much faster than spruce or pine plywood when exposed to moisture so that’s something to consider Delta fabric is sold as waterproof breathable membrane but I’ve had problems with water getting through when the weather is harsh and it’s raining sideways, I always prioritise getting the roof, flashings and cladding on as soon as possible especially in winter.. Delta membrane is a great product though but it can’t take the force of a storm Good luck with the rest of the build!
I was wondering why she started on the interior when the outside was nowhere near done. I must assume there was some rason to do it this way, maybe the materials weren't available yet? She did say she had some special plan for the roof...
@@sourcererseven3858 I think she's been sleeping in it, so wanted to get it into a minimal viable sleeping space, then finish off believing the membrane to be waterproof.
With sliding doors, make the top grooves deeper so you can lift the door up and swing the bottom out to remove it without taking the frame apart again.
provided you have enough space to do that. I suspect it would be a tight fit here. With little benefit in this case, seeing as she can just dismantle it should she need to.
@@smashyrashy I didn't say she would, but creative people are always having better ideas after building a thing once. Also not everyone is familiar with this form of construction, you can buy the sliding tracks at hardware stores, usually as a matched pair, but seldom with instructions. I put that comment in to pass on my experience, just as I have done while teaching apprentices.
On a regular house, you have to ensure your guttering/roof edges actually shed water away from your walls, otherwise it will just find the smallest gap and run in. This is also why windows have drip sills. For under the floor might want to look into some way of draining the insulation cavity? Again, for a brick and mortar house, many of these have air gaps and air bricks to allow air flow underneath to reduce humidity and prevent mould. The insulation normally sits above this and can always be vapour barriered with something like tyvek to allow it to breath but not easily wick externsl moisture.
On a trailer I would say that the air underneath is a non-issue. But keeping water away from the wall is building 101, I agree 100%. In Switzerland every construction site finish the roof and gutter work completely before doing anything to the inside. Also chimney piping is an artform, if you wing it you get horrible condensation.
@@bensthingsthoughts yeah, I'd figure there's plenty of airflow underneath, but the outer layer will get cold, so it's where moisture will condense if it's not breathable there. Plus, it looks like the walls run striaght into the floor gap as well, so any moisture running down those will pool in the floor cavity too.
Note to self...When building a tiny circus caravan house, make sure the exterior weatherproofing is finished and well-tested before finishing the interior. Check. Thanks for the heads up, Laura!
Please use a dehumidifier to draw out the moisture. It's the fastest way when we're still in this kind of weather. Put it inside the tiny home and leave it on over night. I'm not saying it'll be dry that fast but it's too cold for it to dry out naturally at this time of year.
If you are using a dehumidifier be sure to use ones suitable for cold climates. Below 5deg C you need ones that heat the air as it is drawn in so the moisture can condense on the condenser.
You are hands down the most positive person I’ve ever seen. Most people would curl up in a ball and quit. You forge on. You are learning so much with these big and little house builds that you are going to be a grand master in building. I wish you a ton of luck in the future because I just want you to have a home finally at this point.
you need to redo the taped seams you just did in this video where there is a T intersection. the bottom piece of tape needs to go on first, then the long vertical piece should overlap it. always work from bottom up so that water is always shedding from the higher point to the lower point without ever being able to find a seam.
My guess is she'll have to rip it out and redo it anyway, how else are you gonna get the new insulation mats in there? I expect she just taped it up for now to prevent further damage. Would the horizontal tape have any chance to be watertight anyway? But of course what you say is absolutly true and best practice. Just saying it may not matter in this case.
@@JonReevesLA yea but what I mean is that she may be planning on replacing the foil everywhere. If she has to replace it at the moist sections to replace the insulation, I'm not sure you can/should just cut out that part and tape in new sections. Probably easier, and _definitely_ more watertight, to take down the whole thing, put in the nw sections of insulation, then cover it with a complete new barrier. Not sure it's cheap, just saying this may well be the plan here.
Building traditions differ everywhere, and there's more than one way to skin a cat. In the states when we stick frame a house, the sheathing goes on the outside, then the exterior is waterproofed and you give the building time to dry out and prove its watertightness before throwing wall cavity insulation and interior finishes in. You'd be wise to get this water tight and dry before touching anything like furniture again
What’s most impressive about you is not your projects ( which are all impressive! ). But your approach to them, you don’t get weighed down in the challenges and set back but rather laugh your way through them and you surround yourself with a great group of people who lift each other up when things get tough! Your weekly videos are one of the highlights of my week and remind me to keep positive and keep moving forward! 🙏
For me the takeaway is that you have to make sure the exterior envelope of a structure is completely watertight before doing interior finishing work. Waterproof membrane isn't enough.
The tar water from the stove is from condensation because single wall pipe was used and too many 90° bends giving a poor smoke path, the best option is no bends and vertical straight through the roof using single wall from stove to underneath the ceiling and then twin wall insulated pipe through the roof, you can obtain easily a proper rubber sealing plate for contoured rooves to give a waterproof seal, I had this same problem with my first installation in my caravan, I changed it to above and have had no problems since, it also improves the draw so the fire burns cleaner.
Hi, Your stove pipe or chimney needs to be connected differently. Place a « T » coupling between the horizontal and the vertical so that a small piece goes down below the horizontal run and add a cap to it. At the top you need to add three T’s so that the the top of the pipe is split in two, and not open directly to the rain. Add two t’s, one to each side and oriented so the top of the t is vertical. Leave them uncapped and open so that rain falling in from the top can just run out the bottom. Lots of old chimneys had this arrangement, especially in old caravans and railway cars. I hope this helps. Vielen Glueck!
Gawd I wish I'd said something. I saw that roof material left uncovered and knew this might happen; I've had similar things happen to roofs I've worked on. Those materials aren't meant to be left uncovered in the full range of weather, but every boss I've ever had has (understandably) wanted to leave it exposed for long periods of time, for the same kind of reasons you did it; to work on other things first, to wait for roofing materials, etc. And maybe 30% of the time it's fine, but... Anyways hindsight is twenty cents, amirite?
First rule working on my Mini Trailer Home; I did the roof first. Been testing for one year before doing the inside ceiling, no leaks.... How I layered the roof, it will never leak. first I did sticky roof material, then I put a rubber liner on the roof then the aluminum skin on top of that & comes down the walls mid way. I was using the tarp when I was retro fitting the roof with plywood before doing the roof. The most important thing you never, never finish inside until the roof & the outside walls are done or secured. But what I love about you Laura, you are very humble & honest and you do a great job besides the missteps. And yes, I do mistakes to. I painted all the outside trim on my mini camper & it pealed off, even after sanding, striping the old paint off, I forgot to give the wood a real good deep cleaning. I hate doing a job twice LOL!
When I was building my shed, I used similar out side covering before finalizing my covering, but I used plastic tarps tied down to the frame (like your green ones) as a 2nd barrier. About your walls/floors, you don't use vapor barriers? Plastic sheet between the finished wall and the insulation? The stove probably isn't sealed to the external wall 100% so water can drip behind it, especially under high winds. In the US we do the outside walls before any "finished" or interior walls, it is more to protect the good materials incase any water gets it, its easy to replace some cheap chip board/plywood vs expensive finished plywood/plaster board. To kill any "mold-looking" water damage, just use diluted bleach and lightly spray it and let it dry (with fans), but in your climate it looks like it rains 24/7, sorry. Hope this never happens again! Love the tiny home concept and design.
Interior vapor barrier probably isn’t required for what looks like a mineral wool insulation. Definitely should have something over the exterior on top of the black vent paper. It’s designed to breathe and if it’s soaked in full weather exposure I’m not convinced it won’t move inward.
Check the water isn't getting in at the joint between the bottom of the walls and the trailer chassis, put your weatherproofing on so it goes below that point.
As hash as this is, I learned a few things: It's better to be SAFE and check for damage than assume everything is okay; and, Whenever possible, store or cover your Tiny House build inside a garage or shelter because a bad storm can mess up an unfinished exterior. I just LOVE that you never give up and that you share mistakes and lessons with humor, Laura. Great episode and looking forward to what happens next!
I'm glad you discovered these kinds of problems so shortly after you built. Yes, It's annoying that you will need to replace some materials, and that will also set back your time table. But you made a wise decision to thoroughly investigate where moisture collected. Some people would have chosen denial instead. I'm looking forward to seeing subsequent videos where you show all the improvements you make to prevent more leaks, as it will be a good learning experience for others who are considering a project like this.
So sorry about the weather damage. Wishes for a simple fix and no more surprises for a while. I'm drawing a lot of inspiration from your channel . Thank you and be well my friend.
Cannot say enough how much I appreciate the attitude when you opening the floorboards of "So glad we are doing this" versus "OH F***". The latter would be really understandable, but the form has a far more future-focused, positive outlook on it that keeps your head above water in really frustrating times. Really really appreciate it.
This is a perfect example for why you always build from the outside in instead of the inside out. Experience is teaching you this lesson. I can understand some of the reasoning for trying to do it this way, as doing the inside is the exciting and fun part, but there is a method to the madness!
I know you already have the tarp on the roof in place, but for future reference, the tarp will stay on in hard weather if you fasten it down with very wide washers (2.5 inches diameter) with center opening just big enough for the screw. When a tree took out half of my roof in the middle of winter, we did this until the roof could be fixed about three months later. I've also seen the tarp fastened down with fur strips (about half inch by one or more inch wide). Those tarps weren't going anywhere!
Everybody should have a Felix in their life. And a Laura! Thanks to UA-cam, we, the lucky ones, now have! And when you're down, just chose the channel, press Start, lean back, and inhale a good dose of the best of the best! Thank you, thank you SO much! With lots of love and respect! ❤🧡💛💚💙💜
I would suggest getting a dehumidifier. Also burning the wood stove should help dry. Burning a fire isn’t just heat but also really great at making very dry air.
Laura, you didn't fix your water infiltration when you fixed the roof. If the roof failed enough to send water all the way to the floor, your entire house would need to be replaced. It looks like the top of the walls are ok from the video. So your infiltration comes from the bottom of the walls. I would rethink how the black wrap meet the wagon floor. You seem to have a very short overhang of tarp with a small wood strip to hol it in place. In high wind scenario, water pressure will build and send water behind the tarp. You want the tarp to go down the side of the wagon floor in order to prevent water from being pushed in by the wind...
I commented previously to the tiny house build that I am incredibly interested in building techinques that can prevent mold and water damage. This is a huge problem in tiny houses and will be a more prominent issue in the future when the tiny house trend gets a bit older and many will notice the mold in their tiny houses. Needless to say I feel confirmed :D and I'm looking forward to the solution! There are experts on this and it's actually quite difficult to prevent mold even with good protection from rain. I want to build a tiny or small home in the future and this is the issue i am most worried about
And I was scared when I saw you doing interior finish before your exterior shell was finished. Flashing and drip edge around the roof as well as doors and windows is a must. And of course fixing the flue issues for your stove. But I am sure that you will get there. You know how to problem solve and you will reach out to knowledgeable people to help you get this all resolved. It is so cute. I can't wait to see the end results.
Laura, so sad to see your water damage. I am also currently fighting with water damage. My shop got flooded and I had to gut two rooms completely in my apartment. No comparison to Liselotte but stuff like this just sucks. So you have all my sympathy in that matter. Keep your heads up and I wish you all the best of luck! Regards, Etna.
Looks like you have rising damp from below, rather than coming through the walls or roof. Check if there’s any rainwater sitting between the base of your structure and the trailer chassis. Good luck! Connor
Nate Murphy, on UA-cam, has an eBook on all you need to know Van Conversion. The price is small and may help you tremendously, so you know what to do in the beginning. The other thing, I thought I would mention is, here in the US, there are companies that will spray CORK, for insulation, sound deadening, and exterior protection. It is used on houses! This sounds fantastic! And, they will do vehicles, too.
Yeah most people think tar paper means your dried in or just house wrap but that's not how it works. I hate seeing you had to go through this. Your such a lovely person, but you got this. Just a few more steps and you'll beable to completely finish your siding, Godbless. And it's going to be alright. Also I would spray some black in the crevasses to kill the mold then go back and even paint it in those channels at the bottom. Anyways hope you got it all worked out take care.
Your commitment to quality and to the integrity of the build is admirable. I also really love when you're happy and celebrating little awesome things, like that chair fitting under the table! I feel privileged to get to see your journey. Danke schon!
Laura your motivation is incredible! Having to start dismantling all your hard work like that must have been so difficult. There's no other channel that motivates me to carry on like seeing you and the gang keep smiling, even through all of that. Never change! Can't wait to see what comes next :)
The good thing with your insulation,us that pavaflex dries out undamaged. DAMHIKT, but pull it out stand apart for 5 -6 days and then put back. Looking good, especially the chair fitting in under the table 👍👍👍
Having just found mold in my walls after a water leak, I can very much identify with this! Took a break from ripping out a floor and tearing off wallpaper to watch this video...
Laura, there is a big difference between a fast job, and a good job. I love that you take the time to do a good job, keep your head up, the sun will shine on your tiny house and big house soon!
Ohhh laura! I feel with you! Hope that the sun comes out to dry Liese little and give you some energy for this setback! I’m so impressed by your positive thinking an that’s what I’m going to take with me for my setbacks this week! Thank you so much!
Really good that you are getting it apart to dry out. It's amazing that the mold grew so fast. I'd suggest some fans with heated air to blow on those opened cavities.
@@expatmoose what it is supposed to do is desiccate the mold cells and kill them. It’s safer than bleach or other chemicals but hard to use when you can’t fully open the cavity. Laura’s case seems like a reasonable fit.
Good Sunday morning Laura. So sorry to hear about the setbacks in the Tiny House - and all the water damage. Unfortunately, as it's often said, in even the best times of our lives, even a little rain must fall. However, I'm confident you'll overcome these setbacks, you wonderful and self -sufficient offgrid woman.
Laura that really sucks! Of course you will fix it but there is also great relief in being pissed, feeling all the emotions and then moving on. Thank you for sharing
Seeing this video with my wife we were sad for you and wanted to hug you for support... So this is no hug but it's the least we can do. Love from France.
I know this feeling so well. Winter is a bad time for building, all the challenges are harder. Something gets wet, in summer it dries in 2 days, in winter maybe 2 weeks, if lucky. I know you need the place sorted to live in but it would be so much easier to fix this kind of damage in the summer. Or maybe you can use the wood burner to dry it out from the inside. Good luck!
Hey, bezüglich des Schadens am Ofen. Hatte bei meinem Bauwagen die Rohre gesäubert und danach sie wieder zusammen gesetzt jedoch mit Neigung nach innen. Es ist ganz schön was an spritz Wasser rein gekommen. Habe draußen ein Loch gebohrt ins Rohr und die Neigung verändert. Geruch ging nach sauber machen wieder raus, auch das Holz roch obwohl es was abbekommen hat nicht dauerhaft danach... Hoffe du bekommst den Rest auch noch wieder gut hin! Liebe Grüße
6:40 "yo, that sucks" - we do know what sheisse means, you know, but I guess you don't want UA-cam on your back. Also, I am so glad you have Felix nearby, not just for the video but for the sounding board and advice. You seem to agonize less when you have him to bounce ideas off, and his enthusiasm is so good. Such a good call to bring him on board and, Felix - thank you for all you do for Laura.
You must have been very disappointed and understandably so. I really like your positive attitude and the way you dive back in to resolve the issue. Thanks to that rain, you have been able to discover the weaknesses of the Tiny House before you have completed it. Finding or acknowledging a problem is already half way to solving it and that is exactly what you are doing and are good at.
My heart goes out to you Laura, I can only imagine how disappointed you are after having just built this beautiful new tiny house only to have bad weather cause you to have to redo all of your good work. Stay strong 🦾🦾💪💪🙏🙏💜💙💛🧡❤
Everyone commending Laura's positivity in the comments should remember we only see what they want us to see in these videos. It's possible during this process Laura has had many episodes of self doubt, pity parties, and maybe even breakdowns. Projects like renovating a house are incredibly stressful, emotional, and mentally exhausting. So if you are currently doing a project similar to Laura's and aren't handling it with the positivity shown in these videos, please don't feel bad.
Oh gosh, my heart broke when I saw that mold -- I can imagine how disappointed you must have felt. You are so resilient, it's good to see someone deciding to keep making progress instead of dwelling on the setbacks. I'm so excited to see what you have planned for the rest of the build!
So sad to see this happen. Lots of helpful comments down here already. I hop you get everything done, also with the expenses of all the new insulation wool. Just signed up for your patreon to give some support!
Probably the best thing to do (after taking out everything damaged, drying it out, and replacing the insulation) would be to completely finish everything you have planned for the outside to make sure it's watertight before attempting any more finishes inside. Just assume that until the exterior is done, the interior isn't safe to work on. How did the big house do through the storm? The walls are clay and still unsealed, will it be okay with its tarps and the high winds?
My guess is that the water in most parts comes from the floor and not from the walls themselves. Due to heavy rains the wood between truck and house must have soaked and the the water goes up... I feel for you though 😥
Holy crap- when you get bad news. It’s really bad. I have to admire your attitude, no crying over spilled milk. Just confirm the damage and fix it. Great way to think, great way to work.
Hi Laura, maybe it’s because you didn’t put a damp barrier at the inside of your construction to prevent from al the water in the air to get inside your bearing construction. You normally have to do this in a roof too. With a wooden construction your condensation point ( where damp becomes water due to colder outside temperature) is in the insulation….) so with a barrier just behind your finishing plates no water in the air will not hurt your construction. It was also not ventilated there . With the cold temperatures these last days and you living there and warming up the damp could only cause damage…
Have you checked how much it would cost to rent space in an industrial hall, a barn or similar to store it in while you build? The winter is wet, so I think it's faster to get things dried up indoors and better to work under a roof until it's tight?
It was a mistake to leave a half finished project exposed to the elements. Also there has no flange and no condensation and tar drainage (at the 90 degrees bend) to the stove exhaust pipe.
Hello from the US! I had similar issues with water intrusion in the US, please look at this product. Concrobium mold control, I'm not sure if they sell it in Germany but it is non toxic and a salt based solution. Also they make a mold stain remover that works very well, I used it with a small scrub brush on some affected wood and it looked like new. After it dried I treated it with their mold treatment product to prevent any possible further mold growth. I was pretty happy with the results.
Suggestion/Warning: Don't ever cut a Dado running your finger on top of the wood over the saw blade. I lost part of my thumb when the wood split and my thumb hit the spinning blade. Severe pain, lots of blood and a Plastic Surgeon. Always use the push stick. I learned the lesson the hard way.
hi laura i have worked with coffee roaster installations for a long time and know this kind of water dripping from chimneys. during roasting or also during the burning of wood the smoke contains water vapor as well. with makeshift chimneys that are not double-walled (they exist in an insulated version to minimize this) the following can happen: at low outside temperatures the water contained in the smoke condenses on the very cold walls of the chimney tubing on the outside of the building. this water droplets attract soot and other smoke ingredients and form this brown sluggish „water“. this is especially a problem when the fire is not burning for reaaally long time or at insufficient temperature (for the chimney) so it does not evaporate again. from all looks of it this is the kind of water that flows back down your chimney and damaged your building. in a lot of situations we mitigated this by adding drainage on the outside BELOW the outlet of the roaster/fireplace. so the water drips down in the outside tube and then out of a small drain hole below the outlet on the wall. if you look at images of chimneys that are built on houses you can see these most of the time. the pipe goes much lower than what would be neccessary to capture the water and also make it possible to clean the tube for the chimney cleaner. i will send you a picture on instagram to visualize what i mean. you need to fix this before you turn on the chimney again, especially if you used a build where the parts are just interconnected and not tight-fit into each other (which is perfectly fine) but on the back journey the water leaks from these seams into your wall, the insulation and also the outside/transit piece from your fireplace which is why you found a lot of water with droplets splashing onto the wall behind your fireplace.
please also avoid 90° perpendicular joints as much as possible and make sure the smoke only goes up at a small angle (which can be very small, but it should have a slope, not perfect horizontal!). where room allows it, 2x 45° joins or 3x 30° makes for a more natural flow and improves airflow significantly. but i‘m positive that you should be perfectly fine with drainage at the bottom of the outside tubing :) all the best and good luck
in other videos i saw you use the „ballistol harzlöser“. this is the perfect cleaner for this „sluggy stinkwater“ by the way.
Great advice!!!
The chimney wasn’t the main problem IMO. The construction wasn’t weatherproof at all, strong winds make parts of the roof come off and heavy rain ruins everything in seconds. Furthermore obviously no one pays attention to the tiny house after the damage so mould can develop. one could easily take some early measurements to prevent such damage.
yeah no doubt that the main damage was caused somewhere else. i explicitly refer to the brown stinky water around the fireplace.
A couple of things that stand out to me as a carpenter from northern europe
birch plywood is very prone to molding, goes off much faster than spruce or pine plywood when exposed to moisture so that’s something to consider
Delta fabric is sold as waterproof breathable membrane but I’ve had problems with water getting through when the weather is harsh and it’s raining sideways, I always prioritise getting the roof, flashings and cladding on as soon as possible especially in winter.. Delta membrane is a great product though but it can’t take the force of a storm
Good luck with the rest of the build!
Yes, prioritizing completing the exterior envelope is key after water damage mitigation and amelioration.
bump
I was wondering why she started on the interior when the outside was nowhere near done. I must assume there was some rason to do it this way, maybe the materials weren't available yet? She did say she had some special plan for the roof...
@@sourcererseven3858 Well a 'special plan' that takes this long....in winter..... no bueno.
@@sourcererseven3858 I think she's been sleeping in it, so wanted to get it into a minimal viable sleeping space, then finish off believing the membrane to be waterproof.
With sliding doors, make the top grooves deeper so you can lift the door up and swing the bottom out to remove it without taking the frame apart again.
Thanks, I'll admit I didn't know that....
provided you have enough space to do that. I suspect it would be a tight fit here. With little benefit in this case, seeing as she can just dismantle it should she need to.
That is just stating the obvious
Why would she need to remove it
@@smashyrashy
I didn't say she would, but creative people are always having better ideas after building a thing once.
Also not everyone is familiar with this form of construction, you can buy the sliding tracks at hardware stores, usually as a matched pair, but seldom with instructions.
I put that comment in to pass on my experience, just as I have done while teaching apprentices.
The stove pipe also needs a flange on the outside to stop water from running along the pipe and into the wall!
Also, it should have a slight dropping slope towards the outside, so small amounts of water or condensate do not run into the house.
As, is, nothing about that stove is safe for a small trailer.
@@DavidL-ii7yn then what are you supposed to use this stove for?
@@user-qx7tm5df8j I think he was referring to the way it’s installed
@@TJ13062010 - And then into the fire causing a steam explosion.
On a regular house, you have to ensure your guttering/roof edges actually shed water away from your walls, otherwise it will just find the smallest gap and run in. This is also why windows have drip sills.
For under the floor might want to look into some way of draining the insulation cavity? Again, for a brick and mortar house, many of these have air gaps and air bricks to allow air flow underneath to reduce humidity and prevent mould. The insulation normally sits above this and can always be vapour barriered with something like tyvek to allow it to breath but not easily wick externsl moisture.
Solid advise! 👍
Agree 100%.
On a trailer I would say that the air underneath is a non-issue.
But keeping water away from the wall is building 101, I agree 100%.
In Switzerland every construction site finish the roof and gutter work completely before doing anything to the inside.
Also chimney piping is an artform, if you wing it you get horrible condensation.
True and maybe get a dehumidifier for now inside to get the moisture out and prevent any further damage
@@bensthingsthoughts yeah, I'd figure there's plenty of airflow underneath, but the outer layer will get cold, so it's where moisture will condense if it's not breathable there. Plus, it looks like the walls run striaght into the floor gap as well, so any moisture running down those will pool in the floor cavity too.
Note to self...When building a tiny circus caravan house, make sure the exterior weatherproofing is finished and well-tested before finishing the interior. Check. Thanks for the heads up, Laura!
Ditto for building a house or renovating a French chateau.
Of course. Common sense, unless you wish what you *want* destroyed because you're ignoring what you *need*
Please use a dehumidifier to draw out the moisture. It's the fastest way when we're still in this kind of weather. Put it inside the tiny home and leave it on over night. I'm not saying it'll be dry that fast but it's too cold for it to dry out naturally at this time of year.
Yes! Use a couple dehumidifiers and a large fan to help promote evaporation
It’s more humid in the room because she’s been using the fire. The humidity condenses under the floor.
If you are using a dehumidifier be sure to use ones suitable for cold climates. Below 5deg C you need ones that heat the air as it is drawn in so the moisture can condense on the condenser.
definitely second this.. dehumidifiers work wonders
And a powerfull heater to get the moisture into a vapor for the dehumidifier to catch.
You are hands down the most positive person I’ve ever seen. Most people would curl up in a ball and quit. You forge on. You are learning so much with these big and little house builds that you are going to be a grand master in building. I wish you a ton of luck in the future because I just want you to have a home finally at this point.
But are there ants? If there are no ants you’re still winning.
So treu
Maybe there's ants like... you know, spiritually?
She ate a snickers, she’s winning most definitely now
😂
The ants got drowned.
you need to redo the taped seams you just did in this video where there is a T intersection. the bottom piece of tape needs to go on first, then the long vertical piece should overlap it. always work from bottom up so that water is always shedding from the higher point to the lower point without ever being able to find a seam.
Good point! Water finds the smallest weaknesses and runs ramshod through
My guess is she'll have to rip it out and redo it anyway, how else are you gonna get the new insulation mats in there? I expect she just taped it up for now to prevent further damage.
Would the horizontal tape have any chance to be watertight anyway?
But of course what you say is absolutly true and best practice. Just saying it may not matter in this case.
@@sourcererseven3858 I think she only taped the sections where the insulation did not need replacing, so OP is correct.
@@JonReevesLA yea but what I mean is that she may be planning on replacing the foil everywhere. If she has to replace it at the moist sections to replace the insulation, I'm not sure you can/should just cut out that part and tape in new sections. Probably easier, and _definitely_ more watertight, to take down the whole thing, put in the nw sections of insulation, then cover it with a complete new barrier. Not sure it's cheap, just saying this may well be the plan here.
Building traditions differ everywhere, and there's more than one way to skin a cat. In the states when we stick frame a house, the sheathing goes on the outside, then the exterior is waterproofed and you give the building time to dry out and prove its watertightness before throwing wall cavity insulation and interior finishes in.
You'd be wise to get this water tight and dry before touching anything like furniture again
It really surprised me that the insulation was on the 'outside'....well the not finishing the roof and siding kinda did too.
Yeah I can't fathom why they're finishing the inside before having a permanent roof to shed water.
What’s most impressive about you is not your projects ( which are all impressive! ). But your approach to them, you don’t get weighed down in the challenges and set back but rather laugh your way through them and you surround yourself with a great group of people who lift each other up when things get tough! Your weekly videos are one of the highlights of my week and remind me to keep positive and keep moving forward! 🙏
Yes ! I think there is a very valuable lesson in all of this. 😁
100% agree!
For me the takeaway is that you have to make sure the exterior envelope of a structure is completely watertight before doing interior finishing work. Waterproof membrane isn't enough.
That is why I was wondering why you built the inside first before cladding the outside. Good luck by drying the wood construction.
Other peoples dreams: flying with dolphins over rainbows
Lauras dreams: chair fits under table
The tar water from the stove is from condensation because single wall pipe was used and too many 90° bends giving a poor smoke path, the best option is no bends and vertical straight through the roof using single wall from stove to underneath the ceiling and then twin wall insulated pipe through the roof, you can obtain easily a proper rubber sealing plate for contoured rooves to give a waterproof seal, I had this same problem with my first installation in my caravan, I changed it to above and have had no problems since, it also improves the draw so the fire burns cleaner.
Hi,
Your stove pipe or chimney needs to be connected differently. Place a « T » coupling between the horizontal and the vertical so that a small piece goes down below the horizontal run and add a cap to it. At the top you need to add three T’s so that the the top of the pipe is split in two, and not open directly to the rain. Add two t’s, one to each side and oriented so the top of the t is vertical. Leave them uncapped and open so that rain falling in from the top can just run out the bottom. Lots of old chimneys had this arrangement, especially in old caravans and railway cars. I hope this helps.
Vielen Glueck!
Being someone who didn’t have good roll models growing up, it is great to see you dealing with it with a good attitude.
Rub some candle wax in the grooves for the sliding doors. Stops them sticking over time.
Also, sorry about the water damage.
Laura's whole adventure with the 2 houses is just one big journey of how to overcome major setbacks.
Or poor planning.
@@bzuidgeest Exactly.
Gawd I wish I'd said something. I saw that roof material left uncovered and knew this might happen; I've had similar things happen to roofs I've worked on. Those materials aren't meant to be left uncovered in the full range of weather, but every boss I've ever had has (understandably) wanted to leave it exposed for long periods of time, for the same kind of reasons you did it; to work on other things first, to wait for roofing materials, etc. And maybe 30% of the time it's fine, but... Anyways hindsight is twenty cents, amirite?
Sadly the tiny house is not tiny enough to just put it in a bowl of rice overnight :( Hope it all works out in the end!
is it???😆
There was a giant pile of salt in the building next-door. How about that?!
You are an inspiration to this 75 year old lady! I love watching you videos.
First rule working on my Mini Trailer Home; I did the roof first. Been testing for one year before doing the inside ceiling, no leaks.... How I layered the roof, it will never leak. first I did sticky roof material, then I put a rubber liner on the roof then the aluminum skin on top of that & comes down the walls mid way. I was using the tarp when I was retro fitting the roof with plywood before doing the roof. The most important thing you never, never finish inside until the roof & the outside walls are done or secured. But what I love about you Laura, you are very humble & honest and you do a great job besides the missteps. And yes, I do mistakes to. I painted all the outside trim on my mini camper & it pealed off, even after sanding, striping the old paint off, I forgot to give the wood a real good deep cleaning. I hate doing a job twice LOL!
When I was building my shed, I used similar out side covering before finalizing my covering, but I used plastic tarps tied down to the frame (like your green ones) as a 2nd barrier. About your walls/floors, you don't use vapor barriers? Plastic sheet between the finished wall and the insulation? The stove probably isn't sealed to the external wall 100% so water can drip behind it, especially under high winds. In the US we do the outside walls before any "finished" or interior walls, it is more to protect the good materials incase any water gets it, its easy to replace some cheap chip board/plywood vs expensive finished plywood/plaster board. To kill any "mold-looking" water damage, just use diluted bleach and lightly spray it and let it dry (with fans), but in your climate it looks like it rains 24/7, sorry. Hope this never happens again! Love the tiny home concept and design.
Interior vapor barrier probably isn’t required for what looks like a mineral wool insulation. Definitely should have something over the exterior on top of the black vent paper. It’s designed to breathe and if it’s soaked in full weather exposure I’m not convinced it won’t move inward.
Check the water isn't getting in at the joint between the bottom of the walls and the trailer chassis, put your weatherproofing on so it goes below that point.
As hash as this is, I learned a few things:
It's better to be SAFE and check for damage than assume everything is okay; and,
Whenever possible, store or cover your Tiny House build inside a garage or shelter because a bad storm can mess up an unfinished exterior.
I just LOVE that you never give up and that you share mistakes and lessons with humor, Laura. Great episode and looking forward to what happens next!
I'm glad you discovered these kinds of problems so shortly after you built. Yes, It's annoying that you will need to replace some materials, and that will also set back your time table. But you made a wise decision to thoroughly investigate where moisture collected. Some people would have chosen denial instead. I'm looking forward to seeing subsequent videos where you show all the improvements you make to prevent more leaks, as it will be a good learning experience for others who are considering a project like this.
So sorry about the weather damage. Wishes for a simple fix and no more surprises for a while. I'm drawing a lot of inspiration from your channel . Thank you and be well my friend.
Cannot say enough how much I appreciate the attitude when you opening the floorboards of "So glad we are doing this" versus "OH F***". The latter would be really understandable, but the form has a far more future-focused, positive outlook on it that keeps your head above water in really frustrating times. Really really appreciate it.
"epic transition!" i love this duo lol, thanks for sharing
Mein Respekt, dass Du da so ruhig bleibst und Dich auf Lösungen statt Probleme konzentrierst! 😊
We only see what they want us to see! (I'm joking.)
Even the discovery channel programs can't push out this much drama! Amazing to see you can keep up such a spirit!
This is a perfect example for why you always build from the outside in instead of the inside out. Experience is teaching you this lesson. I can understand some of the reasoning for trying to do it this way, as doing the inside is the exciting and fun part, but there is a method to the madness!
I know you already have the tarp on the roof in place, but for future reference, the tarp will stay on in hard weather if you fasten it down with very wide washers (2.5 inches diameter) with center opening just big enough for the screw. When a tree took out half of my roof in the middle of winter, we did this until the roof could be fixed about three months later. I've also seen the tarp fastened down with fur strips (about half inch by one or more inch wide). Those tarps weren't going anywhere!
Ok But the edit?! Oh honey THE EDIT IS EVERYTHING! Seriously tho the sound edit the transitions the images 11/10!
Felix's noises of appreciation are EVERYTHING.
i get chills in my spine from seeing your hand reaching over the table saw, not the good kind
@Laura, before you put the woodstove back, would you consider adding some non-combustible heat protection on the wall behind it please? 🙂
Tiles or concrete board or stone would be great
Everybody should have a Felix in their life. And a Laura!
Thanks to UA-cam, we, the lucky ones, now have! And when you're down, just chose the channel, press Start, lean back, and inhale a good dose of the best of the best!
Thank you, thank you SO much! With lots of love and respect! ❤🧡💛💚💙💜
I would suggest getting a dehumidifier.
Also burning the wood stove should help dry. Burning a fire isn’t just heat but also really great at making very dry air.
That’s not correct, burning wood produces water, organic vapours, CO2, CO and worst of all particulates
I'm impressed with the level of building expertise here in the comments that can help with solving some of the problems. Great community!
Laura, you didn't fix your water infiltration when you fixed the roof. If the roof failed enough to send water all the way to the floor, your entire house would need to be replaced. It looks like the top of the walls are ok from the video. So your infiltration comes from the bottom of the walls. I would rethink how the black wrap meet the wagon floor. You seem to have a very short overhang of tarp with a small wood strip to hol it in place. In high wind scenario, water pressure will build and send water behind the tarp. You want the tarp to go down the side of the wagon floor in order to prevent water from being pushed in by the wind...
My heart sank when I read the thumbnail. Inspired by your perseverance as always, may drier days be in your future
I have been wondering about this for a while... leaving it in the rain without a facade cladding ...
I commented previously to the tiny house build that I am incredibly interested in building techinques that can prevent mold and water damage. This is a huge problem in tiny houses and will be a more prominent issue in the future when the tiny house trend gets a bit older and many will notice the mold in their tiny houses. Needless to say I feel confirmed :D and I'm looking forward to the solution! There are experts on this and it's actually quite difficult to prevent mold even with good protection from rain. I want to build a tiny or small home in the future and this is the issue i am most worried about
And I was scared when I saw you doing interior finish before your exterior shell was finished. Flashing and drip edge around the roof as well as doors and windows is a must. And of course fixing the flue issues for your stove. But I am sure that you will get there. You know how to problem solve and you will reach out to knowledgeable people to help you get this all resolved.
It is so cute. I can't wait to see the end results.
Laura, so sad to see your water damage. I am also currently fighting with water damage. My shop got flooded and I had to gut two rooms completely in my apartment. No comparison to Liselotte but stuff like this just sucks. So you have all my sympathy in that matter.
Keep your heads up and I wish you all the best of luck!
Regards, Etna.
Looks like you have rising damp from below, rather than coming through the walls or roof. Check if there’s any rainwater sitting between the base of your structure and the trailer chassis. Good luck! Connor
Whenever I make a drawer or sliding door I rub a tea light candle on all the surfaces that slide over each other, making them slide super smooth!
Nate Murphy, on UA-cam, has an eBook on all you need to know Van Conversion. The price is small and may help you tremendously, so you know what to do in the beginning.
The other thing, I thought I would mention is, here in the US, there are companies that will spray CORK, for insulation, sound deadening, and exterior protection. It is used on houses! This sounds fantastic! And, they will do vehicles, too.
Yeah most people think tar paper means your dried in or just house wrap but that's not how it works. I hate seeing you had to go through this. Your such a lovely person, but you got this. Just a few more steps and you'll beable to completely finish your siding, Godbless. And it's going to be alright. Also I would spray some black in the crevasses to kill the mold then go back and even paint it in those channels at the bottom. Anyways hope you got it all worked out take care.
Your commitment to quality and to the integrity of the build is admirable. I also really love when you're happy and celebrating little awesome things, like that chair fitting under the table! I feel privileged to get to see your journey. Danke schon!
Laura your motivation is incredible! Having to start dismantling all your hard work like that must have been so difficult. There's no other channel that motivates me to carry on like seeing you and the gang keep smiling, even through all of that. Never change! Can't wait to see what comes next :)
The good thing with your insulation,us that pavaflex dries out undamaged. DAMHIKT, but pull it out stand apart for 5 -6 days and then put back.
Looking good, especially the chair fitting in under the table 👍👍👍
I am so sorry at the water damage. Your videos are fascinating.
I am sorry for the water damage 🤔☹☹
Hang in there…sometimes construction work is so frustrating but you are learning. Keep going and you’ll win.
Having just found mold in my walls after a water leak, I can very much identify with this!
Took a break from ripping out a floor and tearing off wallpaper to watch this video...
Laura, there is a big difference between a fast job, and a good job. I love that you take the time to do a good job, keep your head up, the sun will shine on your tiny house and big house soon!
Ohhh laura! I feel with you! Hope that the sun comes out to dry Liese little and give you some energy for this setback! I’m so impressed by your positive thinking an that’s what I’m going to take with me for my setbacks this week! Thank you so much!
My God… the amount of work you are wiling to put into your projects is amazing! You are such a hard worker…. good luck!
Your attitude towards this setback is inspiring. Hang in there!
What an indomitable spirit! Keep going forward!
Are there drip rails on the window sills? This is a fabulous build. So sorry to see the set backs. I know you will win.
real bummer! but look on the bright side, its like you said. good thing, you caught it now!
Really good that you are getting it apart to dry out. It's amazing that the mold grew so fast. I'd suggest some fans with heated air to blow on those opened cavities.
Will that not spread mould spores? Just asking
@@expatmoose what it is supposed to do is desiccate the mold cells and kill them. It’s safer than bleach or other chemicals but hard to use when you can’t fully open the cavity. Laura’s case seems like a reasonable fit.
@@michaelcima5772 ah ok! Thanks for the info👍🏻
Your attitude, even when things aren’t going to plan, is truly inspiring. Thank you for being a great model for dealing with problems.
Good Sunday morning Laura. So sorry to hear about the setbacks in the Tiny House - and all the water damage. Unfortunately, as it's often said, in even the best times of our lives, even a little rain must fall. However, I'm confident you'll overcome these setbacks, you wonderful and self -sufficient offgrid woman.
Laura that really sucks! Of course you will fix it but there is also great relief in being pissed, feeling all the emotions and then moving on. Thank you for sharing
Sending some good vibes to you Laura. Your determination is impressive, keep it up !
Props to the editor on having the marker drawing a dotted line match up with the music.
I’m so sorry for the setback, Laura! But your strong spirit during these types of situation are always very uplifting and inspiring ⭐️
That drill catch was great!
I’m just in awe of your talents, Laura. So wish I’d been able to spend more time with my mother’s uncle who was amazing at woodwork
Seeing this video with my wife we were sad for you and wanted to hug you for support... So this is no hug but it's the least we can do. Love from France.
Ganz ganz großen Respekt wie du damit umgehst!
Your resilience is stunning, I love your attitude! I know you will fix it better than new.
I know this feeling so well. Winter is a bad time for building, all the challenges are harder. Something gets wet, in summer it dries in 2 days, in winter maybe 2 weeks, if lucky. I know you need the place sorted to live in but it would be so much easier to fix this kind of damage in the summer. Or maybe you can use the wood burner to dry it out from the inside. Good luck!
P.s. I want to mention again putting heat protection behind the stove. It is a fire hazard.
You poor thing I really feel for you, I love how you always focus on the positive. Total champ!
Hey, bezüglich des Schadens am Ofen. Hatte bei meinem Bauwagen die Rohre gesäubert und danach sie wieder zusammen gesetzt jedoch mit Neigung nach innen. Es ist ganz schön was an spritz Wasser rein gekommen. Habe draußen ein Loch gebohrt ins Rohr und die Neigung verändert. Geruch ging nach sauber machen wieder raus, auch das Holz roch obwohl es was abbekommen hat nicht dauerhaft danach... Hoffe du bekommst den Rest auch noch wieder gut hin! Liebe Grüße
6:40 "yo, that sucks" - we do know what sheisse means, you know, but I guess you don't want UA-cam on your back.
Also, I am so glad you have Felix nearby, not just for the video but for the sounding board and advice. You seem to agonize less when you have him to bounce ideas off, and his enthusiasm is so good. Such a good call to bring him on board and, Felix - thank you for all you do for Laura.
Water damage is a big reason most buildings have the outside envelope finished before the inside.
Really sad to see the damage.
At least she got this far. I hope she prioritizes getting the roof done. Too much water damage can lead to mold issues.
You must have been very disappointed and understandably so. I really like your positive attitude and the way you dive back in to resolve the issue. Thanks to that rain, you have been able to discover the weaknesses of the Tiny House before you have completed it. Finding or acknowledging a problem is already half way to solving it and that is exactly what you are doing and are good at.
So sorry about the water damage Laura! Hope the fix isn't too bad. Also, Felix is the master of transitions.
My heart goes out to you Laura, I can only imagine how disappointed you are after having just built this beautiful new tiny house only to have bad weather cause you to have to redo all of your good work. Stay strong 🦾🦾💪💪🙏🙏💜💙💛🧡❤
Everyone commending Laura's positivity in the comments should remember we only see what they want us to see in these videos. It's possible during this process Laura has had many episodes of self doubt, pity parties, and maybe even breakdowns. Projects like renovating a house are incredibly stressful, emotional, and mentally exhausting. So if you are currently doing a project similar to Laura's and aren't handling it with the positivity shown in these videos, please don't feel bad.
Very well said. and very important to remember!
👆👍
Oh gosh, my heart broke when I saw that mold -- I can imagine how disappointed you must have felt. You are so resilient, it's good to see someone deciding to keep making progress instead of dwelling on the setbacks. I'm so excited to see what you have planned for the rest of the build!
So sad to see this happen. Lots of helpful comments down here already. I hop you get everything done, also with the expenses of all the new insulation wool.
Just signed up for your patreon to give some support!
I love the dramatic music as she takes scalpel to tarpaper. 😮
Probably the best thing to do (after taking out everything damaged, drying it out, and replacing the insulation) would be to completely finish everything you have planned for the outside to make sure it's watertight before attempting any more finishes inside. Just assume that until the exterior is done, the interior isn't safe to work on.
How did the big house do through the storm? The walls are clay and still unsealed, will it be okay with its tarps and the high winds?
Respect for your attitude. Really hope you have enough dry weather to sort it out.
My guess is that the water in most parts comes from the floor and not from the walls themselves. Due to heavy rains the wood between truck and house must have soaked and the the water goes up...
I feel for you though 😥
Holy crap- when you get bad news. It’s really bad. I have to admire your attitude, no crying over spilled milk. Just confirm the damage and fix it. Great way to think, great way to work.
Hi Laura, maybe it’s because you didn’t put a damp barrier at the inside of your construction to prevent from al the water in the air to get inside your bearing construction. You normally have to do this in a roof too. With a wooden construction your condensation point ( where damp becomes water due to colder outside temperature) is in the insulation….) so with a barrier just behind your finishing plates no water in the air will not hurt your construction. It was also not ventilated there . With the cold temperatures these last days and you living there and warming up the damp could only cause damage…
I agree. I also didn't understand why Laura didn't put a vapour barrier between the inner wall and the insulation...
This is an excellent example of the benefits of perseverance.
Have you checked how much it would cost to rent space in an industrial hall, a barn or similar to store it in while you build? The winter is wet, so I think it's faster to get things dried up indoors and better to work under a roof until it's tight?
Oh yeah, good idea!
The weather has taken such a toll on everyone. Well done for for doing it properly.
It was a mistake to leave a half finished project exposed to the elements. Also there has no flange and no condensation and tar drainage (at the 90 degrees bend) to the stove exhaust pipe.
Hello from the US!
I had similar issues with water intrusion in the US, please look at this product.
Concrobium mold control, I'm not sure if they sell it in Germany but it is non toxic and a salt based solution. Also they make a mold stain remover that works very well, I used it with a small scrub brush on some affected wood and it looked like new. After it dried I treated it with their mold treatment product to prevent any possible further mold growth. I was pretty happy with the results.